Wiring Decision Time

[Michael101]

I’m at the point that I need to commit to a location for the fuse panel. I know that this has been discussed in depth here but I’d welcome any ‘If I had it to do over again’ thoughts.

I’m starting with a Painless universal 20 circuit fuse box and a pile of wire so any location is doable.
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I’d initially thought that I’d put the fuse box in the trunk but now that I’m looking at this in detail I’m not sure how I’d do that and keep it hidden but easily accessible. It’s hard enough to see fuses up close, so I worry that having it along the bulkhead behind the fuel tank might not be easy to work with after the body and trunk lid are in place. What ‘feels’ right to me is to locate it somewhere behind the seats, or maybe in the console between the seats. I could route wiring on top of the tunnel/under the console easy enough. Or, if I use seats that tilt forward, I should be able to locate it behind one of the seats too.

[sethmark]

With a full length center console fabricated, I would put a fuse panel between the seat on the bulkhead. I am running a barebones car with no console and was stuck under dash. I have 2 panels. One for the chassis located by the pedals and one for the engine located upside down on the evaporator bracket.

[Michael101]

I’ve thought about using multiple small fuse blocks instead of one central location. That may be a good solution to help cut down on clutter by locating the fuses closer to their respective loads. I did something similar on a couple of LS swaps and it worked well using these 10ckt blocks from Summit.

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[NAZ]

I used 10-circuit fuse blocks from Summit and mounted them under the dash on the passenger side, low enough you can reach them under the dash no problem but plenty high enough they don't show during a cursory look. Most of my relays are also under the dash but in the center behind the switch panel so I have to pull the dash to service them. The dash is held on with 1/4-turn self ejecting fasteners so it's fairly easy to remove.

[Dodgeman]

Naz,

What size quarter turn fasteners did you use for your dash, do you have a part number or where you got them from?
I am going to do the same with my dash.

Thanks,
Bob

[NAZ]

Dodgerman, since I have a Gen I Hot Rod the specific fasteners I used may not work for you if you are dealing with the FFR removable dash on the Gen II. I cut my dash so I could install the body without trapping the roll cage. But here’s some info to help you select fasteners that will work for you.



The other option for attaching your removable dash is to use nutserts designed for plastics and 10-32 button head screws. You’ll need to counter bore the hole for the nutserts so they are flush with the base material they are mounted in. Nutserts for plastics: https://www.mcmaster.com/97217a359

(https://www.mcmaster.com/97217a359)

I usually get my quick-release fasteners from Summit Racing but there are several other sources. The most common style you’ll find are wing head and flat head. The flat heads usually come slotted which requires a special tool (don’t use a screw driver) and less common but my favorite, is a hex head version that accepts a common allen wrench. The hex heads are less likely to have the tool slip and scratch things. You order the fastener the length you need.
You’ll also need spring plates, the part that the fasteners screws into. I usually carry a supply of weld plates and I will simply drill mounting holes for 10-32 screws when installing them on materials I can’t weld like fiberglass.
If you use the fasteners to attach sheet metal you’ll need a dimpling tool: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-71605

(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-71605)

Quick Release Fasteners: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/quick-fasteners?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=quick%20release%20self-ejecting%20fasteners

(https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/quick-fasteners?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=quick%20release%20self-ejecting%20fasteners)

Self-Ejecting Fastener Tool: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900084

[Michael101]

An update on my wiring progress.

I ended up returning the Painless fuse block. It's a great looking product but the footprint is just a bit large for the HotRod. I replaced it with a Ron Francis universal fuse box, cool product with a better layout for what I'm after.

I have a few photos of the front and rear wiring harness routing although I'm not finished yet. I still have to run the primary cable to the starter and I'll probably route a 'I forgot' cable with a few conductors to the rear of the car for those items that I forgot to think about while doing this.

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[JOP33]

An update on my wiring progress.

I ended up returning the Painless fuse block. It's a great looking product but the footprint is just a bit large for the HotRod. I replaced it with a Ron Francis universal fuse box, cool product with a better layout for what I'm after.

I have a few photos of the front and rear wiring harness routing although I'm not finished yet. I still have to run the primary cable to the starter and I'll probably route a 'I forgot' cable with a few conductors to the rear of the car for those items that I forgot to think about while doing this.


Clean look Michael, looks great!