Noob painting attempt

[miller7448]

For everyone’s amusement I thought I would share the trials and tribulations of someone with no prior painting experience attempting to paint their roadster. So far I have applied almost 2 gallons of Rage Gold of which I’m sure at least ¾ was subsequently sanded off. If I were to start over now likely could do it with a single gallon. Just curious if the experts have any idea how much they use per car?

Blocked with 120/180 then 220. Made a simple spray booth with Rosin paper on the floor and plastic walls. Trying to decide if I should go straight up to ceiling on the two open sides or straight across the top to make a false ceiling. After reading about the hazards of isocyanates I’ve ordered a SAS system and will have full suit, gloves, etc. Maybe overkill. Thinking of adding some type of ventilation just to slowly exhaust the booth.

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[Dwleo]

Ventilation is very important. Fans at onbe end and filters at the other. Full suit would be greatly enhanced with a supplied air system as well as your filtered mask.

[Quincy]

To do it correctly you want a furnace fan and drill a hole in your wall to vent it outside to your niebors. This can be pricy.

Maybe just leaving the garge door open and walmart fans to shoot it outside would be OK too. :)

[miller7448]

Was thinking of using a simple walmart $20 box fan outside the back window with a cardboard duct. Fan would be a throw away but maybe still use a furnace filter to reduce explosion risk? The SAS is the supplied air system. Ordered a full hood and also a mask. Will see which works better. 126570126571

[cob427sc]

Definitely need air filtration. Without it in a manner of seconds you won't be able to find the car never mind paint it plus you need to limit your contact with the vapors (just like the virus) as there just not good for you. I use a small blower from an electric hot air furnace ducted to the out side as have 2 20" x 20" furnace filters on the other side to let air in. Full plastic booth attached to 2x4 so they don't blow around and plastic up over the top. Works slick. Tried it without the top and only provided a path for every conceivable bug to fall down into the fresh paint!

[Quincy]

I haven't quite figured out why they might explode but I would use a Hepa filter for the exjust. It is a little bit more expensive but with the amount you are using it should last a while.

[miller7448]

126586 Wasn't sure if this was a gimmick or not but was worth the cost to try it. Great stuff. Excellent adhesion to plastic but releases easily from painted surfaces. Added feature is that it rips sideways when you're applying so no need to cut off to length.

[Avalanche325]

You need more than one box fan. I used four, and had a couple times when my booth was getting foggy.

I had my four fans with filters on one end pressurizing the booth. That way I was't pulling paint fumes through the fans. Things that are flammable are usually explosive when vaporized. Vaporizing paint is what a paint gun does.
On the other end, by the garage door, I built a frame with 2x4s that had filters for the outlet.
I added about 10 florescent fixtures around the sides and on top. I wish I had had 10 more. Keep your lights outside of the plastic (I had a plastic roof). You basically don't want anything that can create a spark inside the booth.
I found a 6ft zipper at Home depot in the paint dept that sticks to the plastic. That way I could get in and out easily.
I have a HobbyAir full hood that I used. I also had a full paint suit and wore gloves. I was 100% covered.

[Olli]

If you are a little shy for light you can always get a spray gun light. I have a couple and like using them. https://lumaiii.com/

Olli

[j.miller]

I don't know where to start so I'll start with....Get yourself a $35 spray mask. The carbon filters are rated at 8hrs of spray time (Put it in a big ZipLock when not using) YOU NEED AIRFLOW ! Lots of it. You need to remove the overspray and evap the solvents while evacuating solvents from a confined area. You need to be able to maintain 70* temp for extended periods of time. Spend your money in the right places...da Bat.....that's just for starters.

[rich grsc]

I look at this the same way I do a surgeon operating on himself. :eek:

[miller7448]

I don't know where to start so I'll start with....Get yourself a $35 spray mask. The carbon filters are rated at 8hrs of spray time (Put it in a big ZipLock when not using) YOU NEED AIRFLOW ! Lots of it. You need to remove the overspray and evap the solvents while evacuating solvents from a confined area. You need to be able to maintain 70* temp for extended periods of time. Spend your money in the right places...da Bat.....that's just for starters.

Will be using a SAS (supplied air system) provides filtered humidified air from the compressor. I just need to ensure the compressor has no exposure to the vapors. Great comments here. Clearly I need to provide for much greater airflow during painting. Will reevaluate number and placement of exhaust fans. Thanks! I'll total up the expenses soon, but for me it's not about the cost it's about having the total build experience.

[Dwleo]

Will be using a SAS (supplied air system) provides filtered humidified air from the compressor. I just need to ensure the compressor has no exposure to the vapors. Great comments here. Clearly I need to provide for much greater airflow during painting. Will reevaluate number and placement of exhaust fans. Thanks! I'll total up the expenses soon, but for me it's not about the cost it's about having the total build experience.

An old CPAP unit works great for supplied air.

[miller7448]

An old CPAP unit works great for supplied air.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU2Z17Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00 $52.49



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[j.miller]

If you have the money to spend get a SATA 5000 with a 1.3 air cap for your base and clear. How big is your air compressor ? 13.5 CFM at 90lbs is the minimum with a minimum of 60 gallon tank.. If yours is smaller, say a 3hp, you will need to add an air tank to hold extra air and that is with a two stage compressor. I do this for a living but I am all for helping the guy who wants "the whole experience" My # is 951-676-0191 if you ever want to bounce ideas off of me. I want you to have the best advantage and experience because I love these cars and the FFR owners group. Kleiner Street Rod Painter, Oli and a few others are a most awesome reference and mentors for your undertaking. Cheers, da Bat....BTW, watch out for rich grsc...he's a smart arse and trouble maker . When I get my hands on that guy we are gonna drink till dawn and make gravel angels (face down) till ….well just don't you worry what comes next. It's tween me and him.

[rich grsc]

That a threat or a promise? Kleiner warned me, never turn my back

[CraigS]

The good thing is you start out w/ the least bad stuff- the primer- and work your way to the worst stuff, the clear. So you will be able to evaluate your system as you go. A guideline a guy gave me a decade or more ago is this, if you smell a chemical odor, you may want to rethink your setup. This is especially true w/ the clear. You will probably be GTG w/ your air supply system to your helmet but things can develop leaks and your supply intake could possibly pick up some of the booth exhaust. Also, since it doesn't much matter w/ the primer, spray it as if it were color or clear. Talking about starting at one place and going all around the car and ending up where you started as well as figuring how you will paint the hood, doors and trunk lid. Dragging the gun air hose, your air hose, etc. that can be a lot harder than you would think so practice when it doesn't matter. It would also be great to have a talented friend there to help, free up a stuck hose, mix the next batch of paint for the gun, move a light to a better spot, things like that which are difficult to do all suited up like an astronaut. I am looking forward to following your saga.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Miller7448,
I'm just now catching this thread. Professor Mr. da' Bat has already chimed in but I'll add a couple of thoughts on ventilation. A box fan in ain't gonna' cut it. You not only have to move LOTS of air you have to change it and get the suspended spray out of your space, not just stir it up. If not you're just going to end up with dried paint dust everywhere, including on what you're trying to spray. Your plastic that doesn't reach the ceiling won't contain it...you'll wind up getting that overspray dust over the entire garage. You need to close off your spray area, get fresh air in and "dirty" air out. Avalanche has posted some good info for working in a home garage. I did something similar to what he describes before building my current shop with a properly ventilated dedicated spray room a few years ago which has a 17,000 CFM fan and 30 square feet of filtered intake---I mention that for comparison and perspective because box fans move 1,000 to 1,200 CFM. At the old place I had a frame with 4 box fans that went into a 36" door opening blowing fresh air in and could have used lots more. I would drop the upper panel of the overhead garage door down to provide an exhaust. I had the fans blowing in through filters to keep as much trash as possible from getting carried in. So, what you're doing is pressurizing your painting space with filtered air and providing an exit to get rid of the overspray laden air. You do NOT want pull the solvent heavy air out across the non-explosion proof box fan motors by having them on the exhaust side. I don't know how dense the solvents need to be to ignite and don't want to find out! There are some limitations/drawbacks but you can get by with a plastic and box fans (note the plural!) but you'll need to think it through. With a little searching you'll turn up a couple of threads and pics of what some of the other guys have done to create their work spaces which will probably be helpful.

Good luck and let us know how we can try to help!

Jeff

[miller7448]

Appreciate all the guidance. Covered the ceiling (enclosed the booth) starting with 3 box fans to pressurize the booth. Since my son will need them next year for his basement ordered (8) 2' x 2' 5000k bright white LED panels. Not cheap, $50 each but not really part of the cost of this project. Will see how bad the air gets with the Featherfill. My expectations for this are fairly low. Likely end up just being a temporary job for a couple years, then send to an expert. Just something I've always wanted to try. Do have a question on the hood scope. Other than sanding the surface does it need something besides Featherfill as a first coat?

[CraigS]

If you are thinking it may get re-done later be sure to make nots of exactly the products you put on the body. This could be real important to a shop. I bought my car from the original owner in primer. When to went to the body shop they started with small areas that needed fixing. When they sprayed their 2 part primer over the whole car and came back 30 minutes later it looked like wrinkle paint. Their primer had reacted w/ what was already there. One of the poor guys had to sand the entire car again.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...Do have a question on the hood scope. Other than sanding the surface does it need something besides Featherfill as a first coat?

FWIW, I use Slick Sand rather thanFeatherfill. Similar products and your choice but I've found that it builds a bit more per coat, doesn't kick off quite as fast and sands a bit easier. Jeff Miller and I differ on our approach to the scoops; after giving the plastic a good cleaning I rough them with 150 which leaves a heavy tooth, lay on 3 passes of Slick Sand, sand that to 150 then move on to the 2K primer surfacer. Pretty sure da Bat recommends skipping the high build (Slick Sand, Featherfill, whatever) and using an adhesion promoter such as Bulldog on the sanded and prepped ABS before and putting the 2K directly onto that. I tried that one time a couple of years or so ago and damn if I didn't have a problem with adhesion of the 2K layer---go figure :( I've used Bulldog on other plastic parts such as Jeep fender flares, Coyote engine covers, etc. with perfect success so I don't know what happened on that one or why??? I've gone back to my original method on the scoops and all is well. Hopefully Jeff M will chime in with his thoughts.

Jeff

[rich grsc]

FWIW, I use Slick Sand rather thanFeatherfill. Similar products and your choice but I've found that it builds a bit more per coat, doesn't kick off quite as fast and sands a bit easier. Jeff Miller and I differ on our approach to the scoops; after giving the plastic a good cleaning I rough them with 150 which leaves a heavy tooth, lay on 3 passes of Slick Sand, sand that to 150 then move on to the 2K primer surfacer. Pretty sure da Bat recommends skipping the high build (Slick Sand, Featherfill, whatever) and using an adhesion promoter such as Bulldog on the sanded and prepped ABS before and putting the 2K directly onto that. I tried that one time a couple of years or so ago and damn if I didn't have a problem with adhesion of the 2K layer---go figure :( Went back to my original method and all is well. Don't know what happened or why??? Hopefully Jeff M will chime in with his thoughts.

Jeff
Oh good lord do we really want to know WHAT he's thinking. :rolleyes:

[Jeff Kleiner]

Oh good lord do we really want to know WHAT he's thinking. :rolleyes:

:)

Truth be told when Miller talks about this stuff smart people listen and not so smart people should.

When he goes off on other things...well, maybe not so much ;)

Jeff

[rich grsc]

Truth on both points.:)
I always did like stirring the pot.

[j.miller]

Truth on both points.:)
I always did like stirring the pot.


Well, I only ever stir the pot if I'm making brownies otherwise I just pack the bowl and.....Oh! Right! Primer... Well as Capt. O stated I prefer to give the scoop an even sanding with 320 followed by two mist coats of Bulldog (allowing to dry between coats) and dry before two medium coats of 2k urethane followed by wet sanding with 500 before sealer and base. Putting Bulldog on to heavy can cause a blistering issue. I'm not a fan of polyester on plastic but it works for my esteemed colleague so it is another means to an end. I will say that which ever way you choose you need to let each coat thoroughly flash and never force dry or set in the sun for at least 30mins after shooting (it's a plastic thing) As for polyester I prefer EvercoatG2 for the same reasons JK prefers Slick Sand (sixofone,halfdozenoftheother) ...da bat

[miller7448]

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Got a first coat of featherfill on. Needed to add an extra pressure tank to avoid running out during each shot. Typical noob mistake, cleaned gun between 1st and second pours. Started second spray and gun was sputtering and pulsing. Investigated compressor, gun adjustments, tried adding thinner. Actual problem was plugged breather hole on the cup lid.

[GoDadGo]

After Reading This Thread I'm Glad I'm Not Painting My Car!

I simply don't have the skills nor the patience.

Good Luck & Stay Healthy!

[Olli]

Standard plastic lid ? I keep round (with a point) wood toothpicks handy to make sure that the hole is open.

Olli

[cv2065]

After Reading This Thread I'm Glad I'm Not Painting My Car!

I simply don't have the skills nor the patience.

Good Luck & Stay Healthy!

Agreed....I might start drinking again with all of that attention to detail that is needed.

[miller7448]

Body sanded first time. Quite a few pin holes, couple high and low spots. 2 spots I might hit with a tiny amount of Rage Gold. Will hit the problem areas with Featherfill again. First time I think I ever bought over $100 in sandpaper at one time.

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[miller7448]

Not sure why but this section is giving me the most trouble. Ready for what I hope is final featherfill but second gallon was destroyed in shipment. Just like Rage Gold I'm likely using way more than I should.

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New compressor should allow continuous spraying which will be needed for final coats after primer/sealer.
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[LOBO 302]

Look forward to hearing your thought when complete

[j.miller]

When I shoot polyester primer I go through a gallon and 3/4 to hit three full coats on every surface. Run your new compressor through your old compressor for tank volume...da Bat

[miller7448]

When I shoot polyester primer I go through a gallon and 3/4 to hit three full coats on every surface. Run your new compressor through your old compressor for tank volume...da Bat

Thanks, good to know I'm on target.

More Pin holes and low spots:
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[Avalanche325]

Are you using something specific for pinholes? I used Evercoat Metal Glaze.

...the never ending pinhole patrol.

Keep going, don't get frustrated and push on. Over and over until it's right. Besides, it gives Miller and Keiner something to giggle about.

[miller7448]

I just used Rage Gold with a flexible paddle to eliminate as much excess as possible. Just got word the replacement gallon of Feather fill was also damaged in shipment. Made it all the way to the local UPS distribution center before they declared it "undeliverable". They ship the gallon in a simple cardboard box with some brown paper wadding. No surprise I guess that they break open. Must be a real mess in the truck. Don't want to wait so ordered for store pickup at Oreilly. Amazon $83.88 delivered, Oreilly $122 store pickup. :(

[Avalanche325]

I would go with some type of glazing putty for the pinholes, or you may never get them. I have only done my Cobra. I figured as a noob I needed all the help I can get.

That reminds me, I have a damaged oil filter to send back. It came in a envelope and has a nice dent right where the can / mating surface seam is.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You really want to purchase FF, SS and other high build products locally rather than through Amazon, etc. so that they can put it on the shaker for 10 minutes or so because you'll never get the solids broken up and distributed no matter how much you stir.

Jeff

[j.miller]

You really want to purchase FF, SS and other high build products locally rather than through Amazon, etc. so that they can put it on the shaker for 10 minutes or so because you'll never get the solids broken up and distributed no matter how much you stir.

Jeff



YEPPERS ! I have found a lot of paint products "on line" are at or beyond their shelf life. Great way to get rid of the old stuff.

[miller7448]

Kind of pissed at myself for not finding this earlier. During what I hoped would be the final sand before primer I felt this flat spot on the hood. It's supposed to curve the way the other side does. Glad I have Rage Gold left over.

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Hopefully this section is think enough. Gun hose dragged across. Saw it and hit that section couple more times.

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[miller7448]

Seven and a half more hours of sanding. Still have doors, trunk, and hood to do. Found 3 spots I'm going to hit again.
128705

Switching to DeKups. No more breather hole and the ability to tilt the gun properly to hit the lower surfaces.

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[j.miller]

Kind of pissed at myself for not finding this earlier. During what I hoped would be the final sand before primer I felt this flat spot on the hood. It's supposed to curve the way the other side does. Glad I have Rage Gold left over.

128526

Hopefully this section is think enough. Gun hose dragged across. Saw it and hit that section couple more times.

128527

128528



That is called "Hose Whip" one of the many thousand things that can bite you in the arse. One of the best I ever knew would say..."anyone can spray paint. You can call yourself a painter when you can fix all your problems on the fly and finish the job without stopping". In 45 years of painting I have stopped twice...one of those I broke down sobbing....NOW I DRINK !!!...da Bat

[miller7448]

"That is called "Hose Whip" one of the many thousand things that can bite you in the arse. One of the best I ever knew would say..."anyone can spray paint. You can call yourself a painter when you can fix all your problems on the fly and finish the job without stopping". In 45 years of painting I have stopped twice...one of those I broke down sobbing....NOW I DRINK !!!...da Bat"


I'll still be a noob when I'm done with this :) One of the many compromises is I will never be able to do three coats in one continuous session with my setup. Not sure yet how best to handle that. Not a problem with Featherfill.

[broku518]

Miller7448,

You are one crazy guy! :) I am sanding now, but don't even thinking about doing what you are doing. I don't have the space and it wouldn't be cost effective. (if I had the space, that would another story :) )
I am talking to couple painters now and hoping to just take the body there. I won't hold them liable for any of my body work mistakes, plus I am more than happy to pay if they see something wrong prior the paint.

Good luck sir, I am following your posts for ideas and mistakes to avoid.

[miller7448]

Miller7448,

You are one crazy guy! :) I am sanding now, but don't even thinking about doing what you are doing. I don't have the space and it wouldn't be cost effective. (if I had the space, that would another story :) )
I am talking to couple painters now and hoping to just take the body there. I won't hold them liable for any of my body work mistakes, plus I am more than happy to pay if they see something wrong prior the paint.

Good luck sir, I am following your posts for ideas and mistakes to avoid.

"cost effective" LOL, I could have bought 7 Cobras for what's been spent so far :)

[Jeff Kleiner]

... I will never be able to do three coats in one continuous session with my setup.

How so?

Jeff

[miller7448]

Compressor is no longer a limiting factor. I'm thinking the final paint will create much more mist than the Featherfill from what you guys and others have said. Although the fan I switched to has excess capacity it needs to push the air out through a 20x25" window covered with a furnace filter. If the fan is put on high it will over pressure the temporary room and bust the seems. I suspect there will just be way too much mist with my airflow. Plan is to run some tests on the hood/trunk/doors and then think about the body. In your setups you likely have room for everything to be spaced and supported in such as way to allow everything to be done together. Just don't have enough room. I guess I could eliminate the filter if I provided ducting to protect the window frame. Thanks Jeff! Your question made me think of one possible solution.

[j.miller]

BROTHER ! Don't TEST anything ON YOUR PARTS ! (test on your wife's car when she's not looking) (the trouble will be the same but you won't F your car. ) Spray the cat(they love it ….I SWEAR), trash can, poster board...etc. Get some discount mismatch from your paint store....but not your parts. You need to develop a feel for the gun.... 20x25 window is insane....I don't know what to say at this point other then if you think the cost of materials is high, wait till you have to buy them again (not to mention the prep work). Feather Fill has about %25 of the overspray that Base and clear have (put that in your pipe and puff on it for a bit). About the only thing I would try spraying with that exhaust opening would be a custom helmet....BTW, what were the bottom of your shoes like after the feather Fill ? I swear I'm not trying to be a self important BUZZ KILL, I really do want you to have the best experience possible so that's my reason for jambing you up. I know you want the Kill Shot on this 8 point so let's figure out how to get it for ya...da Bat...…...you have your tags RIGHT ? Cause trapping solvents out of season is a big no no.(sorry, painter humor)

[miller7448]

Man, maybe I should just use a brush.;)

[rich grsc]

Man, maybe I should just use a brush.;)
Oh hell no, the most expensive low nap roller you can find. I have heard from a VERY reliable source that is what the Bat really uses.:eek:

[Joe Campbell]

I did a DIY paint job as well. Given the lack of proper ventilation you might consider going with a single-stage paint so you don't have to deal with the clear... it is a bit more forgiving for noobs, I think. It's not the mirror shine you can get from a pro BC/CC job, but the gloss still looks great four years later. Has its share of noob flaws from bad mix/over applying, but these days those touched-up spots look the same as my touched-up rock chips from having fun out on the road. Well worth the experience and I'll probably do it again on my next one.

https://sites.google.com/site/ffr7859/mar16-shesgotcolor

[Jeff's First FFR]

Agreed....I might start drinking again with all of that attention to detail that is needed.

I second that. OMG, I had no idea it was so complicated and dangerous!!

[Jeff's First FFR]

I thought I would just use the HARBOR FREIGHT GARAGE in my back yard. But now...better hire a pro.

[j.miller]

Oh hell no, the most expensive low nap roller you can find. I have heard from a VERY reliable source that is what the Bat really uses.:eek:


LIES, LIES, LIES ! ALL LIES !!!... If you must know I use a classic 1954 Hudson sprayer (when they were still made in the good o'l USA) I have to make my own babbit and rope seals but the thing will last forever....the down side....I used to be able to spray and pump at the same time. These days as the shadows grow longer I have to keep screaming at my helper "PUMP FASTER YOU M...F>>" While he demands a raise and threatens to walk out in the middle of clear coating. I do so miss the old days...da Bat

[j.miller]

No matter what the bat says...don't use a hudson sprayer...he's just tellin one of his stories...i know this to be true .

[Jeff's First FFR]

I thought I would just use the HARBOR FREIGHT GARAGE in my back yard. But after reading all these posts about the difficulty and dangerous aspect of painting it myself...
The more I think about it...the more red gel-coat with parting lines looks just fine!

[rich grsc]

LIES, LIES, LIES ! ALL LIES !!!... If you must know I use a classic 1954 Hudson sprayer (when they were still made in the good o'l USA) I have to make my own babbit and rope seals but the thing will last forever....the down side....I used to be able to spray and pump at the same time. These days as the shadows grow longer I have to keep screaming at my helper "PUMP FASTER YOU M...F>>" While he demands a raise and threatens to walk out in the middle of clear coating. I do so miss the old days...da Bat

See, I knew the story about the belt driven, gerbil powered air compressor was BS.

[Jeff's First FFR]

what about WATER BORNE paints? Will they explode also?

[miller7448]

I did a DIY paint job as well. Given the lack of proper ventilation you might consider going with a single-stage paint so you don't have to deal with the clear... it is a bit more forgiving for noobs, I think. It's not the mirror shine you can get from a pro BC/CC job, but the gloss still looks great four years later. Has its share of noob flaws from bad mix/over applying, but these days those touched-up spots look the same as my touched-up rock chips from having fun out on the road. Well worth the experience and I'll probably do it again on my next one.

https://sites.google.com/site/ffr7859/mar16-shesgotcolor

Was thinking about making a stand for the doors. Have any close ups of how the ends were built to screw on to the door studs? Looks like maybe couplers.

[Olli]

I use couplers on the hinge studs.

Olli

[j.miller]

what about WATER BORNE paints? Will they explode also?



Water borne base coats still use the same clears as solvent base. The trick to not blowing yourself up is keeping the PPM low enough. I've only been blown up 3 times.....I got better.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Was thinking about making a stand for the doors. Have any close ups of how the ends were built to screw on to the door studs? Looks like maybe couplers.

Yes, like my old friend Olli I use couplers. The link below is a write up I did several years ago that shows the how & why of my contraptions for holding doors and being able to hold and turn the hood and trunk lids allowing you to do both sides during the same session. My buddy Brother Bat isn't a big fan but I'm not a fan of wearing a cape and tights so c'est la vie :p

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24635-Painting-setup-for-doors-hood-and-trunk&p=281442&posted=1#post281442

It takes some room to spread out though; my spray room is approximately 18x30

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128875&d=1590235216

You know, we talked about ventilation early on and as you've discovered that small window just ain't gonna' cut it. Can you show us a couple of photos or tell us how the garage is laid out, especially the orientation of the overhead door(s) and man doors to outside &/or the house. We can probably help you come up with a more workable solution.

Cheers,
Jeff

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[j.miller]

[QUOTE=Jeff Kleiner;412740]Yes, like my old friend Olli I use couplers. The link below is a write up I did several years ago that shows the how & why of my contraptions for holding doors and being able to hold and turn the hood and trunk lids allowing you to do both sides during the same session. My buddy Brother Bat isn't a big fan but I'm not a fan of wearing a cape and tights so c'est la vie :p

"C'est la vie" Really ! I love it when you speak Italian! Now say Sprechen sie deutsch ….in Italian....with an English …..nevermind…..YES I know it was French. Problem for me is that when I was 7 my grandfather taught me a little song....it was a very dirty little French song (I mean REALLY dirty) and I sang it for all the boys and girls at school in a little talent contest. The teacher didn't know what I was singing but some of the parents did. My grandpa....what a kidder !!!

[Jeff's First FFR]

After Reading This Thread I'm Glad I'm Not Painting My Car!

I simply don't have the skills nor the patience.

Good Luck & Stay Healthy!

Me neither. Red gel coat and parting lines look just fine.

[Jeff Kleiner]

"C'est la vie" Really ! I love it when you speak Italian! Now say Sprechen sie deutsch ….in Italian....with an English …..nevermind…..YES I know it was French. Problem for me is that when I was 7 my grandfather taught me a little song....it was a very dirty little French song (I mean REALLY dirty) and I sang it for all the boys and girls at school in a little talent contest. The teacher didn't know what I was singing but some of the parents did. My grandpa....what a kidder !!!

So...can you teach it to me...so I can teach it to my Grandkids. I've taught them Kinky Friedman's "Old Ben Lucas" which makes my wife and daughter REALLY proud and I'd love to be able to add a dirty little French song to their repertoire!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JRmKaGP9xc

Have we sufficiently derailed the O.P.'s thread yet? That's what happens when you let the painters slip through the door. ;)


Jeff

[rich grsc]

Maybe if you'd close the lid on the paint thinner, things like this wouldn't happen??? :rolleyes: :rolleyes::p

[Joe Campbell]

Was thinking about making a stand for the doors. Have any close ups of how the ends were built to screw on to the door studs? Looks like maybe couplers.

Correct, I just bent the ends of some allthread and used the couplers. The doors balance each other out, but you'll need wide legs to keep from tipping over, as it's pretty top-heavy. I actually hung just the metal bracket/all-thread/coupler contraption from the ceiling on my first build, but it wouldn't hang quite vertically with the doors on it.

[miller7448]

Garage is 20x30 but unfortunately its all finished surfaces. IE: aluminum diamond plate, T slot hanging panels on all walls, and professionally done epoxy floor. Sometimes I wish it had been left bare. The booth was about as large as I could go without including the Bendpac Lift and dealing with the 17ft ceiling in the high bay. I'll just do the best possible and worry about a high quality job later on.

And any comments from the experts are welcome whether directly on topic or not! If were not having fun it starts to be work.

[miller7448]

129010129011129009

Ready to spray primer

[j.miller]

Add a little waterfall and I bet those wind chimes would be real relaxing. Don't mind me. Started drinking early. Soooo how did it go ?...da bat

[CraigS]

I will ask the Jeffs to say how important it is but...I'd look into a way to hold the hood and trunk horizontally. I believe it varies w/ paint type and color and level of metallic, but I am concerned that your hood and trunk may look slightly different compared to the surrounding body when they are sprayed at 90 deg angle to each other.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I will ask the Jeffs to say how important it is but...I'd look into a way to hold the hood and trunk horizontally. I believe it varies w/ paint type and color and level of metallic, but I am concerned that your hood and trunk may look slightly different compared to the surrounding body when they are sprayed at 90 deg angle to each other.

If it anything other than a solid color, yes it's important that all panels sprayed in their actual orientation.

Jeff

[miller7448]

Plan is to have them in correct orientation after primer. I'm a Noob, why would I use a light solid color for my first job.

[miller7448]

129225129226

Wind chimes are primed. Not sure what this fiber came off of. Do I just sand down with 400 or does it need to be hit again before final?

[Jeff Kleiner]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129226&d=1590775353

Looks like you have plenty of sanding to do anyway so I'm sure it will be gone afterwards.

Jeff

[miller7448]

129264

Insane learning curve. Not even close to "good" but getting better. The Jeffs would be horrified. Was pleased with myself for never having a run using primers. Switched to base coat and opps. Switched tip from 1.8 to 1.5 but did not reduce flow enough. Did not have a cat to try it on and my wife said no to using her car. Even with test sheets used first, still had to sand back down to primer in some areas. Now have 3 bases coats on the doors, trunk, and hood with no runs. 75% overlap works well. Drum fan seems to keep up. Mask with supplied air works very well once facial hair is trimmed :) Looks good from 20 ft.

[j.miller]

Hang in there brother !

[miller7448]

129300

pre clear

[hogauto]

Looking great.

[miller7448]

129328

Learning curve :( Got concerned about the 30 minute pot life of the clear coat and did not wait long enough between wet coats. Don't know if it can be fixed. If not will just sand down and start over.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Curious what clear you're using that only allows you a pot life of 30 minutes? I use either 5 Star Extreme that gives up to 5 hours or PPG Vibrance 5700 which is 2.5 hours. Don't get in too big of a rush between coats; in addition to having it take off and run you can end up with solvent popping.

Jeff

[miller7448]

129693 This is the paint and clear coat system. I'm happy with the way the base goes on but due to a missed run in the primer that appeared when I was wet sanding the clear and several dirt specks due to poor cleaning after sanding and before painting I re-sanded the doors. First with 80 then 220. Will reapply the black primer that came with the kit and try again.

129694

Was able to remove the clear coat runs easy enough then worked progressively from 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000 to a polisher to make sure I was happy with the finish as a test prior to re-sanding for a retry.

[miller7448]

Spent 2 weeks chasing problems with repainting the doors. Finally took them all the way down, and restarted. 130348130349130350130351

I like the appearance. They look good from 10 feet away :).

[miller7448]

130530
3 Full body base coats, no hose whips, no bugs, no runs! Getting slightly better or just lucky. Other than sweating like mad, 80 degrees seems like a good temp for this paint.

[j.miller]

130530
3 Full body base coats, no hose whips, no bugs, no runs! Getting slightly better or just lucky. Other than sweating like mad, 80 degrees seems like a good temp for this paint.



Always go with "lucky". As soon as you say you are getting better karma will slap you like a red headed stepchild. I've been running on luck for years. Couldn't tell you the horror stories of how I got "karma slapped" when I was young and picking apart someone else's work. TEN FOLD I got it back....biblical proportions I tell you...da Bat. keep up the good work.

[miller7448]

130729

Well, it's good enough to get it on the road. Should have known better that the "kit" was not enough to properly complete the car. I don't think the clear coat is thick enough to allow finishing the surface, but I ran out after barely 3 coats. Not sure what the options are for adding more later. I enjoyed the process but would not recommend it :).

[Presto51]

Always go with "lucky". As soon as you say you are getting better karma will slap you like a red headed stepchild. I've been running on luck for years. Couldn't tell you the horror stories of how I got "karma slapped" when I was young and picking apart someone else's work. TEN FOLD I got it back....biblical proportions I tell you...da Bat. keep up the good work.

Absolutely spot on! Always better to be lucky than good, to much to contend with when car painting.

Looks good

Ron

[miller7448]

132155132156

Looks OK from 20 ft :). A lot of defects but I'm still glad I gave it a try. Would have been interesting to have access to a true paint booth and the limited knowledge I have gained. Biggest mistake was believing the paint "kit" would be enough to cover the car. In reality should have had 2 gallons of both top coat and clear. Doors have major runs and on one lifting which will need to be redone over the winter. Still not sure what the final plan will be but will likely run with it as is for a year.