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OK, so I decided to tackle the leaking intake manifold this morning. Got everything disconnected, pulled the distributor, removed the valve covers, and loosened all the intake manifold bolts according to the torque order. Went to lift the manifold, and discovered that the valve cover spacers, that I had put in place when I was going to use old style stamped steel covers, create an interference with the intake manifold, and it will not lift up. I had previously gone to a taller valve cover to avoid issues with the lifters, so I actually don't need the spacers, but my issue right now is how to remove the spacers without damaging the surface of the head? If memory serves me, I used "The Right Stuff" black RTV to set them in place. I've got everything apart, and I'm dead in the water, so any help to solve this would be a huge help.
Thanks
GoDadGo
04-13-2020, 03:15 PM
If you don't need or don't want to save the spacers then simply use a pair of vice grips and grab the suckers and twist.
You can also use a crescent wrench to get some leverage on the spacers too.
They'll move, but a little leverage will go a long way.
Just don't expect them the spacers to survive.
Good Luck & Happy Leveraging!
Here's a shot of the spacer.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49770914291_c84b313707_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iQ5WPV)P4130130 (https://flic.kr/p/2iQ5WPV) by Rick Paul (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156322842@N02/), on Flickr
With what they cost, (around $180), I'd like to save them if possible to maybe sell and get some cash back, but at this point I need them removed without damaging the surface on the heads.
Thanks
rich grsc
04-13-2020, 04:35 PM
They should pop off with some prying, a small flat bar right at the front corner of the intake. I don't see how you would damage the heads?
Rich, where were you 2 hours ago? Just kidding. My neighbor came down to borrow my tile saw, he looked at it, and between the two of us we were able to pry them off exactly the way you just described! I was so frustrated, I wasn't looking at it correctly, and we were able to get them off with no damage. Now let's see if I can finish this without another disaster.
Thanks
Rich, where were you 2 hours ago? Just kidding. My neighbor came down to borrow my tile saw, he looked at it, and between the two of us we were able to pry them off exactly the way you just described! I was so frustrated, I wasn't looking at it correctly, and we were able to get them off with no damage. Now let's see if I can finish this without another disaster.
Thanks
Glad it worked - and here I was ready to give a thumbs-up to the GoDad approach!
Yeah, just wasn't how much force to use on aluminum. Didn't want to create a bigger problem. Now I can clean up the spacers and sell them to someone that could use them.
rich grsc
04-14-2020, 07:58 AM
Rich, where were you 2 hours ago? Just kidding. My neighbor came down to borrow my tile saw, he looked at it, and between the two of us we were able to pry them off exactly the way you just described! I was so frustrated, I wasn't looking at it correctly, and we were able to get them off with no damage. Now let's see if I can finish this without another disaster.
Thanks
Move to the St. Louis area and I can help almost anytime..:rolleyes:
SJDave
04-14-2020, 09:51 AM
Rich, where were you 2 hours ago? Just kidding. My neighbor came down to borrow my tile saw, he looked at it, and between the two of us we were able to pry them off exactly the way you just described! I was so frustrated, I wasn't looking at it correctly, and we were able to get them off with no damage. Now let's see if I can finish this without another disaster.
Thanks
Hey Rick,
Noticed you have the RHS heads. ****DISASTER WARNING *****; These are really cheaply made heads that frustrated the heck out of me for several reasons.
- First problem I had is the position of the exhaust ports relative to the exhaust manifold mounting pattern, it is off about 3mm from the BBK headers that FFR supplied with the complete kit....and probably any other aftermarket header. I couldn't get them to stop blowing out the gasket and leaking. Finally I took a die grinder and spend all day slotting the holes in the headers, then welding in plugs in the end two positions so they would line up properly. Don't know if yours are the same with the headers you purchased, but good time now to address the issue since you have it all torn apart.
- Second problem: RHS doesn't Helicoil the intake manifold mounting threads in the heads. I was torquing mine to the Ford specs and that is way too high for these heads. The third time I replaced the intake, one of the tapped holes in the head stripped...of course the very last bolt. OK, so pull it off, Helicoil that hole, put it back on...another one strips. Ok, pull it off and Helicoil all the mounting holes in the heads. Problem solved. So anyway I called RHS and asked for their recommended torque, and they said 12 ft-lbs. 3 stage tightening...4, 8, 12 ft lbs spiraling out as normal. I was using 18 ft-lbs.
** So be careful retorquing the intake when you reinstall it.
Good luck with the repair!
Dave
Rich, don't make offers like that. Next thing you know, I move into a house down the street, and well, there goes the neighborhood! Plus with all the issues I have, you'd never get to work on, let alone drive your own car.
Dave, I'm using shorty headers to J pipes. When I installed them I didn't notice any misalignment, but ??? I was aware of the torque level. Gordon clued me in to the maximum level. Still not a situation that makes me any more confident than I was before I started this fix. Thanks for the heads up on these items.
Ducky2009
04-14-2020, 11:05 AM
Here's a shot of the spacer.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49770914291_c84b313707_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iQ5WPV)P4130130 (https://flic.kr/p/2iQ5WPV) by Rick Paul (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156322842@N02/), on Flickr
With what they cost, (around $180), I'd like to save them if possible to maybe sell and get some cash back, but at this point I need them removed without damaging the surface on the heads.
Thanks
Question, and possible solution for others. Are the threaded holes for the valve cover bolts through holes? If so, use long bolts and screw in until contacting head, and keep turning. Use the threaded holes and bolts as "jack-off" screws, pushing the adapters off. Just a thought.
Ducky, I was able to get a "pry point" and was able to break the seal and get them off. My original concern was that I wasn't sure how much force I could use to get them to release without doing any collateral damage.
SJDave, Well you called it! Gordon had told me 15 ft/lbs., so I made six or more circuits of the bolts according to the order on the Ford torque chart, very gradually increasing the torque with each sequence. Got to, not the last one, but damn close, and had one let go. So now I guess I face taking it all apart again, and drilling and Helicoiling eight of the twelve bolt holes. The center four have studs, because of access for bolts is impossible, and I don't think that they should be a problem. I should have followed my gut, and replaced all of the bolts with ARP studs when I had the chance. This whole situation has sucked from the beginning, but now its gone into overdrive. I can only hope that there aren't a lot of guys that are having the kind of luck that I've been having. I know that they say you make your own luck, but if that's the case, I should have gotten the instructions for making luck. I was disgusted before, but I can't put into words how I feel right now. I may just let it sit awhile before continuing.
I don't know if it is possible to use a longer bolt to get beyond the stripped threads. Don't know how much more depth there is in those bolt holes.