Coyote Radiator Hose Connection

[pkonigsberg]

I have about 200 miles on my MKIV roadster and the other day I pulled into the garage, turned it off and a minute later heard a pop and smoke coming from the engine. I opened the hood to find the radiator hose had popped off and steam was coming out. (Fluid all over the floor too.) It turns out that the instructions have you cutting the mesh around the Coyote stock radiator hose, cutting the hose, then attaching a steel hose. Well it seems to me that the supplied steel hose is the same diameter as the Coyote's rubber hose. So to connect them I hose clamped them together with a connector. I don't think the soft rubber connector and the soft rubber Coyote hose clamp together well and that is where it popped apart. I was wondering what others did to solve this problem? If I use a different metal radiator hose I'm thinking that will cause a problem on the other end where it connects to another connector which mates it to a fill valve that has a tube to the overflow reservoir. I tried searching for this but Coyote radiator hose didn't bring up much... Apologies if this has been talked about already.
Thank you for any advice!

[frd2]

Can't help with that set up as many of us used a aftermarket version of the factory degassing tank. No overflow worries and factory routing for all the cooling. Something to consider if you get tired of fighting the F5 set up.

See Edwardb's build as a great write up and installation. That's the set up I copied.

Greg

[Railroad]

If the steel hose you refer to is the corrugated stainless provided by F5, here is what I did.
After cutting to length, about 2 ribs from the end, I drilled and installed 3 pop rivets equally spaced around the diameter.
I took a screw driver and lifted the back edge of the rivet flange up, to form a barb. With this done, I installed the rubber hose and clamp. No issues, so far. I have read that others have issues with the corrugated hose slipping out, without some modification to make the rubber hose bite on the steel piping.
I am sure the after market pipe is a better solution.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

To me the best long term solution is to use a stock F150 Coyote hose & an aftermarket purge tank. Had a lot of issues with the FFR setup first year. Changed to my current setup & have not touched it other then to check the coolant level in the last 4 years. Have not added a drop of coolant once it purged itself.

In the process now of changing the coolant as part of my repair, replace & upgrade project.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126382&d=1586814394

The F150 hose had a factory coupling for the engine end & the radiator end is cut back slightly to shorten but the inside diameter fits the FFR radiator with hose clamps to seal it. The replacement oversized 56oz overflow tank (upper center)was a attempt to stop the Coyote from dumping coolant on my garage floor, it did not work.

FWIW used a stainless steel lower radiator hose. Think I got it from Breeze.

[pkonigsberg]

Hi there. Yes I was referring to the Factory Five supplied steel corrugated hose. So you were able to fit the steel hose inside the Coyote's rubber hose? Did you have to crush the edges down some to make it fit inside? Just pushed it in with your hands or was there a tool that helped to insert it?



If the steel hose you refer to is the corrugated stainless provided by F5, here is what I did.
After cutting to length, about 2 ribs from the end, I drilled and installed 3 pop rivets equally spaced around the diameter.
I took a screw driver and lifted the back edge of the rivet flange up, to form a barb. With this done, I installed the rubber hose and clamp. No issues, so far. I have read that others have issues with the corrugated hose slipping out, without some modification to make the rubber hose bit on the steel piping.
I am sure the after market pipe is a better solution.

[GTBradley]

Hi there. Yes I was referring to the Factory Five supplied steel corrugated hose. So you were able to fit the steel hose inside the Coyote's rubber hose? Did you have to crush the edges down some to make it fit inside? Just pushed it in with your hands or was there a tool that helped to insert it?

I can say that I was able to fit the corrugated hose inside the rubber one without modifying it other than to file the sharp edges. I did cut the Coyote hose back quite a bit so it wouldn't be seen. It's not the easiest to work with, but I like that corrugated hose for it's surface area, it's got to radiate more heat than any other type of hose.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126420&d=1586870995

[pkonigsberg]

Thank you for your picture. I cut my Coyote hose after it bends 90 degrees and I'm wondering if the hose gets a little bigger closer to the engine?



Hi there. Yes I was referring to the Factory Five supplied steel corrugated hose. So you were able to fit the steel hose inside the Coyote's rubber hose? Did you have to crush the edges down some to make it fit inside? Just pushed it in with your hands or was there a tool that helped to insert it?

[GTBradley]

I don’t recall, but I really don’t think so, because I’ve seen others cut it longer and use the FFR hose. It was a very tight fit everywhere I used it. The only suggestion I have is don’t try to fit it dry, use some soapy water or radiator fluid. Be sure to get these connections tight and go back after a heat cycle and re-tighten, they have been reported to blow off when not checked for tightness.

[Railroad]

Here is a link, with a pic of the lower hose on my Coyote.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35678-New-Air-Intake-Finished

On the upper hose, I cut the Ford hose, snap on the engine end, put the filler neck on the cut end, then the cut off end to the rad and filler neck splice. Hope that makes some kind of sense.
Here is pic that might help.

126525

[pkonigsberg]

Thank you guys. Definitely not trying to fit these together dry. I tried a little bit of grease buy I guess fluid would be better.
From the pictures it really looks like the rubber hose is stretching to enlarge itself over the metal hose.
I'm just wondering how you stretch it to get it over the metal to begin....



Here is a link, with a pic of the lower hose on my Coyote.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35678-New-Air-Intake-Finished

On the upper hose, I cut the Ford hose, snap on the engine end, put the filler neck on the cut end, then the cut off end to the rad and filler neck splice. Hope that makes some kind of sense.
Here is pic that might help.

126525

[Railroad]

Use hair spray as a lube.

[pkonigsberg]

This is so impossibly hard I'm giving up and am going shopping for a smaller metal hose.
I took a photo and tried to attach it here. You can see how I crushed down the corrugated metal to make it smaller. I also scored out some rubber from the rubber hose.
I still can't get it over even the ring that I crushed.


Use hair spray as a lube.

126670

[Railroad]

You probably said, but I guess you are using the corrugated hose on the upper radiator connection.
Since I did not use the corrugated hose on the upper and used the filler adapter, it is possible the upper rubber hose is too small. Any chance you have the filler adapter where you can compare the outside diameters.
I can check my metal and rubber hoses tomorrow and let you know what mine are.

[pkonigsberg]

Measuring! What a great idea... The outside of the corrugated metal radiator hose is 1.6 inches and the inside diameter of the Coyote's rubber hose that we all cut is 1.3 inches. Yes, this is the connection from the upper Coyote point to the connector with the fill cap on it. Last night I thought about putting a clamp on the inside of the rubber hose and stretching it out over night... But that seems silly. It shouldn't be that hard. I must be doing something wrong...


You probably said, but I guess you are using the corrugated hose on the upper radiator connection.
Since I did not use the corrugated hose on the upper and used the filler adapter, it is possible the upper rubber hose is too small. Any chance you have the filler adapter where you can compare the outside diameters.
I can check my metal and rubber hoses tomorrow and let you know what mine are.

[Railroad]

Sorry to be so late. Corrugated metal tube 1.6 inch O D
Ford upper radiator hose, O D 1.9 inches. I did not have access to the I D of the upper hose.
Maybe this will be of some use.

Any chance you have the lower hose on the top. Lower hoses might be thicker walled for handle the suction from the pump?

[pkonigsberg]

Well it sounds like we are talking about the same corrugated metal hose so that's good. As far as the rubber hose coming off the Coyote; it has been a long time but I don't recall installing that hose onto the engine. Didn't it come with the engine already on it? It's the hose that originally has plastic mesh around it that you had to cut and then cut the hose to mate it with the metal one. The rubber hose takes a quick 90 turn after coming off the engine and I suspect that the diameter is larger closer to the engine. I'm tempted to cut it back further closer to the engine to access that larger diameter.... Especially given your measurement. Did you cut it before or after the 90 degree turn?



Sorry to be so late. Corrugated metal tube 1.6 inch O D
Ford upper radiator hose, O D 1.9 inches. I did not have access to the I D of the upper hose.
Maybe this will be of some use.

Any chance you have the lower hose on the top. Lower hoses might be thicker walled for handle the suction from the pump?

[Railroad]

My upper hose came in the installation kit for the crate engine, I think.
It is a Ford hose that snaps onto the upper hose boss on the water pump.
It did have the mesh covering.
Look at the picture in post #9. In the center of the picture, under the alum 90* air intake tube, you can see how the hose is attached to the water pump.
On the left edge of the picture, about 2/3rds down you will see a rad cap. This is my filler adapter spliced into the hose.
This is where I made my cut on the upper hose. The remainder of the tube went from the filler adapter to the radiator hose neck. No corrugated hose on the upper hose.

[pkonigsberg]

Well I detached the fill connector from the connector that had it on the radiator and looked at putting the fill connector into the Coyote hose.
It won't fit either but I measured it and its much closer. I think its only 0.1 inches off (the fill connector is larger than the Coyote hose's interior diameter.)
So I'm thinking this is getting towards the right solution. And the next step is to either figure out how to stretch out the Coyote hose some (my clamps are too large to fit inside the hose) or cut the hose further back and see if indeed the diameter is larger as you go back towards the engine...



My upper hose came in the installation kit for the crate engine, I think.
It is a Ford hose that snaps onto the upper hose boss on the water pump.
It did have the mesh covering.
Look at the picture in post #9. In the center of the picture, under the alum 90* air intake tube, you can see how the hose is attached to the water pump.
On the left edge of the picture, about 2/3rds down you will see a rad cap. This is my filler adapter spliced into the hose.
This is where I made my cut on the upper hose. The remainder of the tube went from the filler adapter to the radiator hose neck. No corrugated hose on the upper hose.

[Railroad]

I doubt you will be able to stretch the hose. If you do, you might be weakening it. For some reason the wall thickness of your upper hose is thicker. It probably is not an inexpensive hose, but I would be tempted to acquire another upper hose.
I would avoid trying to rig something that might dump the coolant.