Help with priming engine before first start

[dncharo]

Hey guys,
I'm trying to prime my engine before first start (it has sat dry for about 1.5 years). I've got a Blueprint 427 with Sniper EFI. Per their instructions, I removed the plugs, disconnected the coil wire, and disconnected the fuel pump relay. I cranked for 20 seconds 3 times (letting the starter cool in between) and didn't see any oil pressure. At that point, I tried loosening the oil filter until oil came out in case there was an "air bubble" there. Tried cranking again, but still no oil pressure.
Any thoughts or ideas on what to try next? I suppose I could have a bad oil pressure gauge or an issue with the wiring.
Thank you!
David

[GoDadGo]

You may want to install a mechanical gauge temporarily and try spinning it over.

If you don't see any pressure, consider pulling distributor and use a priming tool on it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-150-8802/applications

Good Luck, Keep Us Posted & Happy Easter!

[Jim1855]

I usually removed the distributor and primed the oil pump with a drill motor and pump shaft tool. Watched for pressure on a mechanical gauge, could usually get ~20#. Then reinstalled the distributor and reset initial timing.

Yup its a PITA but I had AN12 lines, big cooler, thermostat, cannister filter and 3qt Accusump to fill up. I'd do the same with any dry motor.

Jim

[D Stand]

My ford racing instructions say pull distributor, add mechanical gauge, remove valve covers, spin oil pump counterclockwise for 20 minutes. Should see oil coming up through push rods. Also if you are running an oil cooler you have to get oil through it as well. Might take longer...

[edwardb]

My ford racing instructions say pull distributor, add mechanical gauge, remove valve covers, spin oil pump counterclockwise for 20 minutes. Should see oil coming up through push rods. Also if you are running an oil cooler you have to get oil through it as well. Might take longer...

I assume you mean 20 seconds not 20 minutes. :eek: Spinning the oil pump drive shaft through the distributor hole will usually get oil pressure up almost immediately, and oil up to the heads and valve train not long afterwards.

To the OP, much preferred method over cranking the engine. I'm guessing Blueprint is trying to avoid people taking out the distributor and potentially not getting it back in the right place, messing up the initial timing they set, etc. Also assume (hope) they used lots of assembly lube when putting the engine together so cranking it maybe isn't a bad thing. But spinning the oil pump and not moving any of the mechanical parts is still by far the best process.

[NAZ]

I also use a drill motor with a priming tool but not just to prime the oil pump, if the engine I'm working on has hydraulic lifters I set them while running the oil pump. But if the engine has solid lifters I still run the pump while barring over the engine and ensure every rocker is getting good oil flow. I find it common for a couple of push rods to be fouled with assembly lube blocking oil flow to the rockers. If I can't get good flow out of them after a few minutes of running the oil pump I pull the blocked push rods and blow them out with compressed air, then reinstall and confirm good oil flow.

IMO, it's not good enough to just prime long enough to see pressure on a gauge as you could still be starving the rockers of oil and not know it. I never start an engine until I've confirmed I have good oil flow to all the rockers.

[Boydster]

I disassembled an old 302 distributor and stripped it all the way down to a housing and a driveshaft (no gear or electrics). Made it very easy to spin the pump to pre-oil and didnt cost a dime since I had it laying around. Yes, oil to the rockers.

[Ian G]

Also, while spinning the oil pump with a drill it is a good idea to put a wrench that fits the crankshaft bolt and turn the crank slowly so oil can get through the bearings and up into the engine more evenly. Another thing to do is to prefill the oil filter.

[dncharo]

Thanks everyone for the great advice, you all are clearly seasoned engine builders! I had no idea you could spin the oil pump by removing the distributor and using a drill, very cool. I also contacted Johnny at Blueprint and he had me remove the oil pressure sending unit and crank it for a few seconds. I saw lots of oil coming out when I did that and he is confident that I have oil pressure and can try starting it. I hope I didn't mislead anyone when I said "dry" above because Blueprint already started the engine and dyno'd it prior draining the oil and shipping to me. So I think I'll give it a shot and see if the pressure gauge comes to life when I fire it up.

[D Stand]

EdwardB - my bad yes only about 20 seconds!

[rich grsc]

Thanks everyone for the great advice, you all are clearly seasoned engine builders! I had no idea you could spin the oil pump by removing the distributor and using a drill, very cool. I also contacted Johnny at Blueprint and he had me remove the oil pressure sending unit and crank it for a few seconds. I saw lots of oil coming out when I did that and he is confident that I have oil pressure and can try starting it. I hope I didn't mislead anyone when I said "dry" above because Blueprint already started the engine and dyno'd it prior draining the oil and shipping to me. So I think I'll give it a shot and see if the pressure gauge comes to life when I fire it up.
If the engine has already been run, priming isn't necessary.

[Bill Waters]

You may also be interested in the pressure tank approach, such as that enabled using the Melling mpl 101. Used this to prime a 525 hp LS 3 crate engine which had a delay in installation (i.e., sat around for a while) with good results.

Just another angle To priming in addition to the good advice you’ve already received above.

Regards,

Bill