Build sheet, What am I Missing?

[scrodd88]

I am putting together my order and using the base kit. What am I missing or other options should i consider? I will not be using a donor car, everything will be new. I have priced this setup using base kit and complete kit and seemed better to do base kit due to the options i want.

Base Kit mk4
16613 - Powder coated chassis – Black, includes powder coated driver’s side roll bar
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, roll-bars, windshield posts, and side louver openings
12066 - Upgrade: Tubular Front Lower Control Arms, standard width. (Note: Replaces 87-04 Mustang lower control arms.)
15942 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
16811 - Headers: 5.0L Coyote stainless steel 4-port full length with ball flange collector
16461 - 5.0L Coyote power steering kit
14010 - Modern gauges: Autometer Ultra-Lite Gauges
16213 - Upgrade: Leather Roadster Seats
16693 - Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear & Mickey Thompson Tires, 245/40R18 Front and 295/35R18 Rear (Price includes $199 Handling)
14932 - Upgrade: Polished Stainless Side Exhaust (standard kit comes with bare steel pipes)
12049 – Wind Wings
16116 - Front Swaybar
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar+$240.00
14816 – Heater-Defroster
33862 - EFI In-Tank Fuel System
15101 - Upgrade: Chrome Driver Side Roll-Bar (Powder-coated black is standard)
15105 - Passenger Side Chrome Roll-Bar
15158 - Roll Bar Grommets (grommets with trim rings and stainless steel hardware – Quantity: 1 per Roll Bar)
15659 - Assembled Side Louver set
14613 - Electrical System Completion Components
16863 - Coyote Installation Kit: Includes Coyote accelerator install and fitment kits (assorted fittings, lines, etc.)
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
15988 - 12.88” 2015 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted

Fortes parts connection
5.0L 460HP Gen 3 Coyote Engine Package
-Ford Performance M-6007-M50C 2018 Gen 3 Coyote
-M-60017-M50B Gen 3 Coyote ECU
-M-8600-M50BALT Alternator Kit
-Gen 3 Coyote Engine Cover Kit
-TKO 600 .64 Ford Transmission
-Bellhousing , Blockplate, & Bolt
-Clutch Fork/ Pivot Ball
-Timken Throw Out Bearing
-Billet Steel Flywheel
-Ram Clutch
-Coyote Mini Starter
-Coyote Oil Filter Nipple
Header gasket for 5.0 coyote motor.
SUPER 8.8″ IRS DIFFERENTIAL 3.55 AND KNUCKLE KIT

[scrodd88]

here is what I would want as a complete kit. It ends up being $3000 price difference, is it worth it?
16613 - Powder coated chassis – Black, includes powder coated driver’s side roll bar
16811 - Headers: 5.0L Coyote stainless steel 4-port full length with ball flange collector
15440 - 4.6L/5.0L Coyote Mounts with transmission mount plate
60175 - 31 spline driveshaft for 4.6L/5.0L Coyote with Tremec TKO 500 or 600, T-45 or 3650 transmission and 2015 IRS. Also for 390/427/428 Big Block with Tremec TKO 500 or 600 transmission and 2015 IRS.
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, roll-bars, windshield posts, and side louver openings
16213 - Upgrade: Leather Roadster Seats
16473 - 5.0L Coyote power steering kit
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
16598 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
15945 - 2015-2017 Mustang IRS Manual Driveshaft Adapter

14010 - Modern Gauges: Autometer Ultra-Lite Gauges

16693 - Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear & Mickey Thompson Tires, 245/40R18 Front and 295/35R18 Rear

14932 - Upgrade: Polished Stainless Side Exhaust (standard kit comes with bare steel pipes)

12049 - Wind Wings

16116 - Front Swaybar

15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar

14816 – Heater-Defroster

33862 - EFI In-Tank Fuel System

15101 - Upgrade: Chrome Driver Side Roll-Bar (Powder-coated black is standard)

15105 - Passenger Side Chrome Roll-Bar

15158 - Roll Bar Grommets (grommets with trim rings and stainless steel hardware – Quantity: 1 per roll bar)

15659 - Assembled Side Louver set
16863 - Coyote Installation Kit: Includes Coyote accelerator install and fitment kits (assorted fittings, lines, etc.

15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted

15988 - 12.88” 2015 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted

[Sigurd]

Missing a steering wheel? Power steering is not a must but able you to use dial in more caster.

After following a discussion here, consider a steel bellhousing.

What adds to the total is all the small items, -AN couplings, nice fuel filter, noise insulation, special tools, etc. All in all, it is worth it.

Looking forward to follow your build!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Your base kit is missing a few major components; the entire cooling system, the fuel tank and associated components, the chassis harness and the Wilwood Pedal box, steering rack and tie rod ends, spindles and hubs, hood hinge, all of which are included in the Complete kit. If you add these as well as the other morning re minor bits that it would take to make a true apples to apples comparison I think you’ll find that the $3K difference goes away quickly.

Jeff

[edwardb]

You're missing some pretty major pieces with the base kit: Fuel tank, radiator, wiring harness, front spindles, steering rack. That's off the top of my head without going too deep. Lots of people have compared the cost of a base kit build without a donor (e.g. buying and adding the parts) compared to the complete kit. Most determine it's a wash. Non-donor base kit builds (I've done a couple) make sense if you're not planning to use a significant number of the parts that come with the complete kit. Then it starts to make more sense.

Edit: Jeff wins. :cool:

[Ducky2009]

Radiator and rad shroud
Pedal Box and master cylinders
Oil Pan and pickup tube

[scrodd88]

I knew I was missing some stuff, Thanks for the help guys, complete kit seems to be smart route to go for the price difference

[Aircontroller]

Consider attending the build school in Michigan! Definitely worth it!



I knew I was missing some stuff, Thanks for the help guys, complete kit seems to be smart route to go for the price difference

[RBachman]

I agree with others that you're better off with the complete kit. There may be a few things you do not need, but overall you'll come out better in the end. ALSO, if there are components in the complete kit you do not want, just ask them to deduct the parts and costs. FFR is VERY accommodating and their customer service is near iconic.