Coyote with heater defrost question

[Wes Brimhall]

Good day, Gentleman. I am using a coyote and installing the Vintage heater defroster and have a question on circulation and control. The Ford Performance guys say the circulation should be constant through the core and sent me a diagram of the overall circulation of the coolant. Using the ball valve supplied shuts off the constant flow and I am not keen on having the flow throught the core all the time (i.e. when it is 90 degrees out.) Has anyone succesfully used /rigged up the supplied valve or come up with another solution to allow constant flow through the engine as needed but turn on and off flow to the heater core? I have heard rumblings a bout a "4-way valve" but the Ford Perf. guy was unaware of anything in that regard. Thanks!

[Misterfubar]

I used one of these on my roadster. Works well.

https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/heater-valve-kit-50-1555

[edwardb]

Not the best answer from Ford. The coolant has to have continuous flow from one head to the other. But it doesn't have to flow through the heater core. The electronic bypass valve in the previous post is similar to the one Factory Five supplies with their Coyote heater/A-C kit for the Coyote. I've seen guys post manual valves that do the same thing, e.g. shut off flow to the core but still allow coolant to flow through the heater hoses from one side to the other.

[nuhale]

In process of my build and have FFR heater setup with the manual valve I plan to use. Can't see why this wouldn't be acceptable for use with coyote. I've checked the valve and is solid when closed. Even though going with some modern touches including coyote engine still love the vintage pull & twist knob. I did replace the knob provided by the kit with a lucas style vintage. That knob misterfubar shows seems to only control coolant flow. Would require another knob for blower motor?

[edwardb]

In process of my build and have FFR heater setup with the manual valve I plan to use. Can't see why this wouldn't be acceptable for use with coyote. I've checked the valve and is solid when closed...

I'd sure recommend you reconsider. Ford is very clear that the Coyote cooling system is designed for coolant flow between the two cylinder heads via the heater hoses at all times. Shutting it off with a heater control valve could lead to overheating problems. Why risk it, or potential damage to your engine? If you don't want to use a full bypass valve, a number of people had recommended and installed this bypass from Vintage Air. Allows coolant to flow with a closed heater valve. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-344470/questionsanswers#qa-display-detail.

[Fixit]

Whoever you spoke to at Ford was not correct. As Edwardb stated, and I'll reiterate - the Coyote cooling design has an inherent crossover between heads.

Take a look here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-A-little-run-around-town&p=351809&viewfull=1#post351809)
I used a manual, full bypass control valve with the FFR/Vintage Air supplied control switch/cable.

Tip for you:
Spend some time "exercising" the push/pull action of the switch on the bench with some lubricant. Mine was pretty "sticky" out of the box.
(I went as far as dis-assembling the switch so I could put a drill-motor on the shaft and spin the crap out of it, to "wear it in". This procedure is not for the faint-of-heart - as there's springs & detent balls in the switch... but my control slides like a hot knife through butter.)

[GTBradley]

You can just buy the bypass valve from Vintage Air Products (https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/25-1018-bypass-heater-valve) and use the existing cable, it works fine. Just be sure you have the flow direction correct because the valve is one way only. In my build thread I detailed how you can mount it upside-down to help hide it too.

[Wes Brimhall]

Thanks, all. Got it handled now using the above advice and solutions. Stay Well!