A wiring questions for Coyote (NS SW START SOL)

[tbl100]

I have a question about the light blue wire to the starter solenoid (NS SW START SOL). Several builds with a Coyote engine have still connected this wire to the starter. The FF Roadster Coyote Engine installation guide says to cut this wire and tape it to the other wires and put it back in the harness so it doesn’t stick out. This tells me that they do not intend for this wire to be hooked up to the starter. Which according to the schematics would make the clutch safety switch nonfunctional. The START terminal on the ignition switch would only send a signal to SMR pin on I/P Pigtail connected to the control pack harness.

If this is true then why do some of your connect this to the starter? Are you using the clutch safety switch as well as the SMR signal?

I’m very new at this so I could be missing something totally obvious. Please help me understand.

Thank you,
Tim

ps - I'm sure there will be more wiring question to follow.

[edwardb]

Your explanation is correct. The Ron Francis blue starter wire and clutch safety switch aren't typically used for a Coyote installation. Only the blue wire connection from the ignition switch to the Coyote pigtail SMR as you described. If you leave the blue starter wire, make sure to cover the end and tie it off securely. It's still live whenever the ignition switch is turned to start. I actually remove it completely. But that's not required.

The starter wire in the Coyote control pack harness attaches to the small terminal on the starter, replacing the Ron Francis blue start wire. The Coyote clutch switch provides the same clutch safety function. Actually better since the clutch has to be all the way down versus just slightly pushed. There's zero downside to hooking it up this way. I have no idea why someone would still use the Ron Francis starter wire and clutch switch. Maybe wouldn't hurt anything but totally redundant for no benefit.

[tbl100]

Your explanation is correct. The Ron Francis blue starter wire and clutch safety switch aren't typically used for a Coyote installation. Only the blue wire connection from the ignition switch to the Coyote pigtail SMR as you described. If you leave the blue starter wire, make sure to cover the end and tie it off securely. It's still live whenever the ignition switch is turned to start. I actually remove it completely. But that's not required.

The starter wire in the Coyote control pack harness attaches to the small terminal on the starter, replacing the Ron Francis blue start wire. The Coyote clutch switch provides the same clutch safety function. Actually better since the clutch has to be all the way down versus just slightly pushed. There's zero downside to hooking it up this way. I have no idea why someone would still use the Ron Francis starter wire and clutch switch. Maybe wouldn't hurt anything but totally redundant for no benefit.

Ok great. Thanks for the confirmation. I'll remove the RF blue starter lead and the switch.

I looked at one of your wiring photos and it looks like your starter lead is bundled with your starter power cable. Did you strip it out of the original harness all the way back to the battery ground lead and then run it down to the starter with with the starter power cable? Same with the battery ground. Is that the battery ground lead that is terminated with the bolt in the frame at the negative battery lead?

Thank you. I really want to get this right.

Update:
Oh, I just read another one of your posts. This seems to be exactly what you did. Thank you. But please confirm if you can. Thanks.

[edwardb]

Ok great. Thanks for the confirmation. I'll remove the RF blue starter lead and the switch.

I looked at one of your wiring photos and it looks like your starter lead is bundled with your starter power cable. Did you strip it out of the original harness all the way back to the battery ground lead and then run it down to the starter with with the starter power cable? Same with the battery ground. Is that the battery ground lead that is terminated with the bolt in the frame at the negative battery lead?

Thank you. I really want to get this right.

Update:
Oh, I just read another one of your posts. This seems to be exactly what you did. Thank you. But please confirm if you can. Thanks.

I did strip the Coyote starter wire out of the control pack harness. As I recall for the Gen 2 it exits the harness near the PCM connections. I pulled it back to the firewall area, then it joins the positive battery cable coming off the master disconnect down to the starter. Yes, the main battery ground is bolted to the chassis in the front by the battery. Under that bolt is also the ground wire for the Coyote control pack. The instructions were adamant about grounding the control pack at the battery. So that's what I did. They also said to run the main power cable to the battery. That I didn't do. The control pack main power connection to the PDB is coming off the master disconnect. Which does have a direct run to the battery. Hope that all makes sense.

[tbl100]

I did strip the Coyote starter wire out of the control pack harness. As I recall for the Gen 2 it exits the harness near the PCM connections. I pulled it back to the firewall area, then it joins the positive battery cable coming off the master disconnect down to the starter. Yes, the main battery ground is bolted to the chassis in the front by the battery. Under that bolt is also the ground wire for the Coyote control pack. The instructions were adamant about grounding the control pack at the battery. So that's what I did. They also said to run the main power cable to the battery. That I didn't do. The control pack main power connection to the PDB is coming off the master disconnect. Which does have a direct run to the battery. Hope that all makes sense.

Thank you. Yes it does make sense.