Chassis And Undercarriage Parts Protection Question-101

[ydousurf]

Hey everyone! I'm just about ready to begin my build very soon. I've been reading through the assembly manual a couple of times and researching many more build threads too. I've also been purchasing some specialty tools that I did not have and are necessary: rivet/rivnut gun, cleco & wire pliers, grinder, etc... I'll also work on getting my build thread started and published too.

Now, I can't seem to remember seeing this done or a particular brand vs value. So, with the chassis completely stripped down, I figure I would put down a layer or two of either a; nano-ceramic type coating or possibly just a layer of either satin or gloss clear coat on the frame, in which I would rather go the hydrophobic route over a clear coat. I know it might be a waste of time and maybe even money too, that and it will be much more effort to gain some extra protection, but I figure now is really the only time to do this. I also realize that if I go with a nano coating, then I will make sure to "tape-off" parts of the chassis frame where I'll be putting silcone between it and the aluminium panels for better adhereance in those places. Any thoughts on doing this step and recommendations for a nano ceramic product, cost-vs-coverage specifically?

I usually use the line of Mother's Car Polishes, but I've never used a ceramic coating before. I don't see them having this in their line of respective protection products, so I'm looking for recommendations?

Again, I appreciate any feedback regarding adding some extra protection to not just the chassis, but really the entire undercarriage and any metal or aluminum pieces painted/powder coated and all other related parts.

Thanks,
Dj

[GFX2043mtu]

Don’t waste your money on the chassis. Powder coating is tuff stuff and if it chips there was no ceramic or spray on clear coat product you can pre apply that can prevent it unless you want to put paint protectant film over it. I did that on my car in high abuse spots like the front round foot box tubes, and bottoms of the foot boxes along with the rear chassis parts in front of the rear wheels. Best advice I can give is to POR where the powder coater didn’t quite get to and get some 3m cavity wax and a wand kit and spray the insides of the open tubes to protect the bare steel in them (dash top tube, dash main tube, rear upright tubes, and the caped tubes at the front of the door opening at the bottom of the chassis. From there start building. I highly suggest getting your aluminum panels powder coated also once your done fitting and drilling them. Shop around you’ll probably find a coater that will do it for $500-$700 for all the panels hood hinges etc. As with the chassis the stuff is super durable and if your still worried get some bulk paint protectant film from cleartastic or Xpel and cover what your worried about after they are installed. The stuf if applied with application fluid is easy and super durable. Honestly the foot boxes take and round tubes for the foot boxes are the worst and only real worry spots. Spend the saved money onPPF for the body rocker panels, rear fenders / spats, and rear lower quarter area. Oh I almost forgot use bead liner in the wheel arch areas like on the aluminum fender wings as it takes rock hits like a champ and nothing shows.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Had the chassis power coated & sprayed truck bed liner on all the aluminum exposed to the weather. The powder coat is pretty tough & if the truck bed lines gets scuffed its easy just to spray more over any scrapes. Still good 5 years & 12,000 miles later.

[ydousurf]

Thanks (GFX2043mtu) and (BEAR-AvHistory - Kevin) for the "real world" advice! I did think a little about those "open or exposed" tubes. Well, I thought about maybe putting a spray foam in there but something tells me that's probably not a good idea? I'll take the advice to cover any exposed metal and coat inside accordingly.

As for the truck bed liner, I think I'll incorporate that as well! I was researching the Sharkhide Product, but I'm not sure it will give me the look and protection that I want or need for that matter? I guess I would be satisfied with just something black and resilient to the road rocks and the Colorado climate, specifically the mag-chloride that does get used on the roads. I'm not planning to ever drive in the snow, but I am planning to drive anytime the roads are dry/clear, but that will still leave the rock-n-salt residual that will surely get picked up and spattered on the underside. And I do expect to be caught in rain every so often and this I why I'm just trying to cover and protect against any rust opportunities that surely will show itself in the future.

Anyway, I really do appreciate the ideas and feedback! I'm getting one last tool that I need today and hope to begin to start to assemble my dream this weekend! Thanks so much for the honesty and great advice too!

Dj

[Derald Rice]

You are over thinking this. No one is ever going to lookup into your wheel wells and criticize your work. And as far as rock chips, I do not have any protection under the wheel wells and in 18 years, I have never had a rock chip from any debris being thrown up from the tires. I also drive whenever possible, and the mag chloride is not an issue.

The standard powder coat or POR 15 is more than adequate. Save your time and money for other areas that will be a better value.

[ydousurf]

Derald, I think you're right! I am over thinking it, from a car I want to drive vs a car that should be protected and garaged. I'm trying to find that happy balance and agree that time & dollars can be saved and spent elsewhere. Thanks!

Dj