Twisted door mount stud

[Kmcallahan]

Well now I have gone and messed up. I marked my PS door for trimming and when I went to remove one of the nuts I twisted one of the studs😳😳😳. Any ideas how do fix?125423

[RJD]

Is there enough stud left to use a thinner locknut? If not, I might attempt cutting out the old stud and fiberglassing in a new one. Before you do that though, you might want to consult with Factory Five for suggestions.

[David Williamson]

This won't help you now but use standard nuts for doing the door fitting and wait until the final assembly to put the lock nuts on.
David W

[edwardb]

Normal to use cap nuts on those with the Roadster since they're exposed. Hard to see how much thread you would have exposed with the hinge installed. You may still have enough. The other three would hold the door OK I think, but you'd still want that one doing some of the work.

[Kmcallahan]

Normal to use cap nuts on those with the Roadster since they're exposed. Hard to see how much thread you would have exposed with the hinge installed. You may still have enough. The other three would hold the door OK I think, but you'd still want that one doing some of the work.

The Stud sheared even with the hinge flange. Before i do major surgery on this door. I was even thinking of cutting/grinding the stud down a little drill it a hole, thread it and install a stud. It may not be the same size but still working on a plan. Also thanks for the ideas and suggestions.

[edwardb]

The Stud sheared even with the hinge flange. Before i do major surgery on this door. I was even thinking of cutting/grinding the stud down a little drill it a hole, thread it and install a stud. It may not be the same size but still working on a plan. Also thanks for the ideas and suggestions.

OK. That rules out that idea. I don't know that trying to put a smaller stud into the existing one would be very strong. But you could just grind it completely off and tap for 3/8-16. What those are, which I assume you know. Don't recall enough about the underlying structure to know what would be left to thread though. I vaguely seem to recall a picture of the door frame and that stud is actually a bolt that's put through the back of the frame piece and tack welded in place. But don't take that to the bank. Another option, which might be heavy handed, but wouldn't be that hard: Open up the glass enough to remove that thread and weld on a new one. Then repair the glass. Flat surface and not structural. Would be easy to make the fiberglass repair disappear. Final idea. Are you planning to use a door card? If so, you could put a hole in the inner panel (later hidden by the door card obviously) large enough to reach in there and insert a new bolt from the back side. Tap the hole or even just JB Weld to keep it from turning when tightening the cap nut. OK, officially out of ideas. Good luck.

[Kmcallahan]

OK. That rules out that idea. I don't know that trying to put a smaller stud into the existing one would be very strong. But you could just grind it completely off and tap for 3/8-16. What those are, which I assume you know. Don't recall enough about the underlying structure to know what would be left to thread though. I vaguely seem to recall a picture of the door frame and that stud is actually a bolt that's put through the back of the frame piece and tack welded in place. But don't take that to the bank. Another option, which might be heavy handed, but wouldn't be that hard: Open up the glass enough to remove that thread and weld on a new one. Then repair the glass. Flat surface and not structural. Would be easy to make the fiberglass repair disappear. Final idea. Are you planning to use a door card? If so, you could put a hole in the inner panel (later hidden by the door card obviously) large enough to reach in there and insert a new bolt from the back side. Tap the hole or even just JB Weld to keep it from turning when tightening the cap nut. OK, officially out of ideas. Good luck.

Well I cut the stud, Drilled, Tapped for 3/8-16. and it came out pretty good. I just need to install a stud and lock tite it in. I think this will fix it. If this does not work I will do major surgery on the door or in progression. Check out my handy work. 125436125437

[GoDadGo]

Great Job!

[edwardb]

That should work. Nice job. Not constructed exactly like I seem to remember. But looks good.

[boat737]

If it was me, instead of Loctite, I would load that area up in the door with JB Weld, and also put the stud in with JB Weld. Good job on drilling a and tapping.

[D Stand]

I second the JB Weld. Nice work on cleaning it up. For sure use standard nuts until final assembly. Final assembly use the locknuts.

[CraigS]

Twice I see lock nuts mentioned, is that what FFR supplies? If they are the deformed metal type, I'd trash them. Use an acorn nut like these;
https://www.mcmaster.com/acorn%20nuts/thread-size~3-2f8--16/
and washers like these
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers/lock-washers/internal-tooth-lock-washers-9/

[edwardb]

Agreed. Several have mentioned lock nuts or whatever. The kit comes with 3/8"-16 non-locking cap nuts for the door hinges. Just regular threads so nothing going on there. I did find them a little cheap though. The cap portion is a separate piece that is glued or bonded somehow onto the nut portion. I've had them come apart. I've used these on my Roadster builds. With a little anti-seize plus an SS washer. https://www.mcmaster.com/91855a550. Have never had an issue with them loosening.

The kit is shipped with plain nuts on the door hinges, and I too have had them be a little stubborn to remove during the initial breakdown. So not real surprised someone broke one off.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Twice I see lock nuts mentioned, is that what FFR supplies?

No, they don't use locknuts. Plain nuts during mock up then on final assembly they get the FFR supplied washers and SS acorns which you'll find in the bag with the door straps.

Jeff

[RJD]

Nicely done!

[D Stand]

I bought my kit used, partially built, and the previous owner had nyloc nuts on the doors. I took them off and replaced with standard nuts as the doors have been on and off several times. Good to know that I should not use the nylons on final install. Thanks to all with great advise on the acorn style.

[Norm B]

Those lock nuts were for some other assembly. Make sure you don't have 8 polished acorn nuts holding together something that should have lock nuts.

[D Stand]

Norm - Thanks for the tip on the acorn nuts. I pretty much took the car completely apart so I can say I built the whole car. Didn’t find any acorn nuts. I know I can just hand some more $$ over to McLendon Hardware for a few :)

[AC Bill]

I bought my kit used, partially built, and the previous owner had nyloc nuts on the doors. I took them off and replaced with standard nuts as the doors have been on and off several times. Good to know that I should not use the nylons on final install. Thanks to all with great advise on the acorn style.

Replace them one at a time, so the door fit/gaps don't change..

[Jeff Kleiner]

...Good to know that I should not use the nylons on final install....

It's purely for aesthetics, not function. You can use the nylocks if you don't mind the look.

Jeff

[AC Bill]

Well I cut the stud, Drilled, Tapped for 3/8-16. and it came out pretty good. I just need to install a stud and lock tite it in. 125437

I'm curious as to what the support structure is behind the skin? In the picture, I can't see any steel plate or framing, that the stud would be attached to. Looks like it's just tacked in place on one side..

[Jeff Kleiner]

There is a plate at the front with a horizontal square tube running from the upper bolts running back to the door latch plate then another tube that angles from the latch plate to the lower door bolts.

Jeff

[AC Bill]

There is a plate at the front with a horizontal square tube running from the upper bolts running back to the door latch plate then another tube that angles from the latch plate to the lower door bolts. Jeff

In this FFR detail shot of the frame, it looks like the head of the studs are tack welded at their heads, to one edge of the square tube. The part that looks like a plate, is actually the hinge. 125686

[Kmcallahan]

Well guys I finally finished the door where is twisted the mounting stud. I put some JB weld in the threads of door and on the threads of the all thread, screwed it in about 4-6 threads, let dry for a few hrs then cut. 130248130249


Thanks DSTAND and BOAT737 for the suggestion of the JB weld. It came out really strong.