A couple of random questions

[tbl100]

Questions:

1. In looking a various photos of all the awesome builds out there. I notice that a lot of builders use rivet nuts on the F panels to secure the inner wheel well panels. Why is this?

2. I see on dash boards that some builders put a fuel pump switch to disable the fuel pump. Is there a compelling reason for this?

Thanks,
Tim

[Jim1855]

Tim,

Not sure in the F panel & rivet nuts. I do expect to have many removable panels to facilitate modifications.

But there will be times when you want to manually activate or shut off the fuel pump. Many drivers will shut the pump off before shutting down the engine to help drain the carb or depressurize the system.

Jim

[Bob Cowan]

Some people just like to make various parts easily removable. On the F panels, I can't think of any good reason to do that. In 12 years of driving and racing, I never wanted to remove them for anything.

Same thing with a fuel pump switch. I can't think of a good reason for that. I just let the computer control it all.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Agree with Bob. Although I have less time & mileage on the car going into 6th year & 12,000 miles have never had the occasion for either mod. That said unmarked or purposely incorrectly marked I could see the fuel pump switch as a nice anti-theft device.

[CraigS]

I agree w/ Bear, a toggle for the fuel pump works as an anti theft device especially if it is hidden behind the dash. Rivnuts are nice if used on a panel that will be removed often. OTOH, I was once trying to remove a screw and the rivnut started turning so they need to be used carefully.

[edwardb]

Note: Edited to correct my error of saying splash guard instead of F-panel.

You'll get lots of opinions on the F-panels (and others) whether nutserts (rivet nuts, whatever) are necessary where the splash guards attach. I personally use them there and a few other places, like the access panel on the top of the DS footbox. Depending on your build style, sequence, etc. you'll have the body off/on a few times, and having the splash guards installed does affect the fit of other things. Like the side pipe exits, etc. So the splash guards will go on and off a few times. You could easily use clecos up until the final installation. Then rivet them and if you ever have to take them off again, just drill out the rivets. Nothing wrong with that. Getting the splash guards out of the way also is sometimes also useful for repair/maintenance. Like the sidepipe connection. Again, could just drill out rivets. I just prefer the nutserts. It's a personal build decision and either is OK. I will add that if you do use nutserts, use quality parts and installation tool. If you've never done them before, practice on some scrap pieces. You want them in properly so they don't come loose, spin, etc. You'll be sorry if that happens and one of the reasons why some recommend against them.

Fuel pump switch. Meh. I have one on my #8674 build. It's under the dash so in theory could use it to disable the car for security purposes. The ground wire for the inertia switch goes through it. So I can break the ground and disable the pump. Haven't used it once since the car was on the road.

[rich grsc]

Why would you need to remove the 'F' panel, ever? It's nothing more that a splash panel to keep water out of the engine area, it has nothing to do with body fit, or the fit of anything on the car.

[Boydster]

He said rivnuts on the F panels... to secure the inner wheel wells. The elephant ears. I think a lot of people do that. It certainly helps to get access to header connections.

As for the fuel pump, sometimes you want the electric on without pressuring the fuel system. Being able to shut the pump off is a nice luxury. And like Craig said, as an anti theft device.

[mike223]

I got in the habit early in the build to turn off the fuel pump and idle the float bowls empty before storage.

Then I usually let the engine cool for a while before I push it in the garage.

Under some conditions (especially winter gas) - heat soak will boil off some quantity of the gas in the float bowls, and you don't really want it in the garage when that happens.


Pretty convenient for me - but it would be a real PITA for someone whose garage is uphill.

[edwardb]

Why would you need to remove the 'F' panel, ever? It's nothing more that a splash panel to keep water out of the engine area, it has nothing to do with body fit, or the fit of anything on the car.

Note: Edited to correct my error of saying splash guard instead of F-panel. Also removed other content that didn't apply due to this mistake. Sorry about that.

I've had my splash panels off several times during the build and after, and having the nutserts in the F-panel makes it easy. Makes access to the side pipe/header connection way easier, as others said. I made a wiring change this winter (added a controller for the radiator fan) and needed to access the wiring along the top of the 3/4-inch tube. Easy with the splash panel off. Call me a bad planner. Tell me I should have gotten things right the first time. Fine. But still reasons to remove and nutserts made it easy. Sure, could have drilled them out.

[rich grsc]

The OP asked two entirely fair questions. In response, we cite our own experiences. Like many aspects of these builds there are no absolute answers. I gave my experiences and stand by them. I don't claim they're the final (or even right) answers for the OP or anyone else, and said that. Just aspects to consider based on my experience. You gave your experiences and should be taken the same way. Not interesting in arguing, but since you posted right after me will respond. Hopefully won't regret it. And with this I'm out.

I've had my F-panels off several times during the build and after. Makes access to the side pipe/header connection way easier, as others said. I made a wiring change this winter (added a controller for the radiator fan) and needed to access the wiring along the top of the 3/4-inch tube. Easy with the F-panel off. Call me a bad planner. Tell me I should have gotten things right the first time. Fine. But still reasons to remove and nutserts made it easy. Sure, could have drilled them out. Every build might be different, but that bottom corner of the fender opening is very flexible and the F-panel anchors it down. Putting the F-panel in and depending on how much it moves can affect the shape and clearance of the side pipe exit. I'm not the only one that's observed that.

I guess you are confusing the F panel with the splash guard. The F panel does not contact the body, or the fender. It is riveted to the frame just above the front A-arm. I understand the possibility of needing to removing the splash guard.
125247

[Ray]

[QUOTE=tbl100;404595

2. I see on dash boards that some builders put a fuel pump switch to disable the fuel pump. Is there a compelling reason for this?

Thanks,
Tim[/QUOTE]

I don’t have a computer controlled engine so I installed a manual cut off switch.

Ray

[edwardb]

I guess you are confusing the F panel with the splash guard. The F panel does not contact the body, or the fender. It is riveted to the frame just above the front A-arm. I understand the possibility of needing to removing the splash guard.

Well, made a mess of that one. You're right of course. I said F panel repeatedly when I should have said splash guard. Fixed the posts and said so. Had the right idea in my head but obviously used the wrong terms. The OP correctly stated the reason for the nutserts in question was along the edge where the splash guards attach. Where some, including me, have chosen to use them. Not attaching the F-panel to the chassis itself. Which of course only needs rivets and there's no reason to do otherwise. Again, sorry for my confused responses.

[tbl100]

Thanks everyone for the input. Its all good and appreciated. I've learned so much from this forum and I'm very thankful it and you all are here.

Thanks again and stay healthy. Blessings.

[Avalanche325]

I have removable splash panels (elephant ears is the common term around here). I have had various ones off, to make access easier for a few maintenance and modifications. It's not like you take them off very often, or even couldn't live with them being permanently mounted. But it comes in handy once in a while.

I also have removable nose panels. I have had them off once or twice in 6 years. I like the button head look....not that anyone sees them but me.

Drivers foot box access panel. More than a few times for that one. If you had to pick one panel to make removable, it's this one,.

C'Mon you guys with the fuel pump switch, admit it...........98% because it's just cool.

[nuhale]

I used rivnuts so I can gain access to area behind. I'm using a forte hydroboost and want to have greater access if ever need servicing/leaks etc. I also installed a prop valve for the brake system so will be easier to access this when fine tuning brake system. As far as fuel pump... no switch. Plan to just remove the fuse when I need to disable. I have a master electrical disconnect in case of emergency.

[Avalanche325]

Just last night....

I am installing a pedal stop on my clutch. I needed to drill a couple holes to mount a stiffener / adjuster to the firewall under the pedal. It was going to be very hard to do in the footbox with the pedal in the way. Looking under the hood, that didn't look much better. I pulled the front wheel, and took out my removable elephant ear and had plenty of room to get the drill in.

It is also nice if you ever have to take the header off and one. Much less chance of bumping your nice RTV beads when installing.

[tbl100]

Should the Elephant ears be fitted after the body is on or is it safe to line it up with the F panel first?
If using nutserts on the F panel do you use a split washer with the screw or...? What are the chances of the screws backing out?

[mmoen]

I tapped quite a few holes so I could use bolts. In retrospect just rivet and drill the out if needed.
Fuel pump switch is just cool. You should do that.
MM

[edwardb]

Should the Elephant ears be fitted after the body is on or is it safe to line it up with the F panel first?
If using nutserts on the F panel do you use a split washer with the screw or...? What are the chances of the screws backing out?

I'd wait until fitting the body to install the splash guards. They typically take a little massaging of the bends, maybe a little trimming. Every one I've done has been slightly different for the best fit. I put just a very touch of blue Loctite on the screws and slightly snug. Have never had an issue. I use Allen head flange screws.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Should the Elephant ears be fitted after the body is on or is it safe to line it up with the F panel first?
If using nutserts on the F panel do you use a split washer with the screw or...? What are the chances of the screws backing out?

You can go ahead and drill the F panel and splash panel before the body goes on, just align the bottom and the flanges however as Paul said you may need to do some "massaging" of the bends and shape to get a good fit with the body once it is on.

Jeff