Trim trunk and hood

[Kmcallahan]

124590
Guys what is the anchors called in the pic of my trunk? FFR sent me a replacement cause the fiberglass was separated see pic. 124593
The replacement did not ha e the anchors. Any help is appreciated.

Callahan

[D Stand]

Those are riv-nuts. I believe for 1/4”-20 threaded bolt.

[CraigS]

Aw jeez, now you need 4 rivnuts and, more importantly, the install tool. I'd ask around locally to borrow a tool or find someone to install them 4 you because the tool is maybe $60. An alternative is google for a different technique using a couple of nuts, washers, bolts etc.

[Kmcallahan]

Aw jeez, now you need 4 rivnuts and, more importantly, the install tool. I'd ask around locally to borrow a tool or find someone to install them 4 you because the tool is maybe $60. An alternative is google for a different technique using a couple of nuts, washers, bolts etc.

I used some more choice words when I saw what I was missing. I am wondering if I can repair the original trunk where the fiberglass is separating? IF so how, Just fill with some fiberglass body filler?124668

[GFX2043mtu]

Either clean it with acetone and put HRSF in there or glass it with some resin and mat pushed in there. Either way will work and be solid. Just make sure you get it in there good and the area is clean. One of my doors was like that in one spot. You’ll use the same practice when you cut the hood scoop opening. The frame and skin will have a gap that you need to fill.

[Kmcallahan]

Either clean it with acetone and put HRSF in there or glass it with some resin and mat pushed in there. Either way will work and be solid. Just make sure you get it in there good and the area is clean. One of my doors was like that in one spot. You’ll use the same practice when you cut the hood scoop opening. The frame and skin will have a gap that you need to fill.

Thanks for the idea. The more i looked at it. What if I cut off the underside parted layer, clean it well, then layer it with mat and resin. Would that be better to get thee gap filled fully? Just thinking. Your thoughts?

[R. Button]

Kmcallahan You can pickup a Threaded Insert Riveter Kit from the harbor freight store for about $20 with a few riv-nuts. It works well for a few inserts.

[Kmcallahan]

Cool, I had been looking on line and they were $100 bucks or more.

[CraigS]

If I were going to repair that hood first I need to know does it appear that the two layers popped apart when you ground through or are they where they should be and just need filler. If they popped you would need to clamp them together as your mix sets up. If not just fill and wait. HSRF is great stuff but I am not sure I'd bother for 2 reasons. 1- It is quite expensive
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Strength-Repair-Filler/dp/B000XBKL1Y?th=1
and 2- it dries super hard, much harder than the stock fiberglass. Maybe not too much of a problem on an edge but sanding it tends to take down the fiberglass surrounding it faster than the HSRF itself. Something I have read in the instructions for several different fillers is wet the area w/ plain epoxy first and then add in your filler. So for this, I'd mix up some epoxy, pour some of it in there to get the inside surfaces coated. Then just start pushing in strands or very small pieces of glass or mat. I would fill it til just below the surface, then put some tape to act as a dam and pour in a bit more epoxy. The idea being you don't want to sand into the fibers or you end up w/ fuzzies that are hard to get rid of. So an outer layer of nothing but epoxy will help.

[edwardb]

Those rivet nuts look a lot like these I use from McMaster. https://www.mcmaster.com/95105a143. Although since FF left them out, seems they would at least send some to you. I use this style installation tool. Low tech and not fancy. But works every time and is bulletproof. Please a pretty economical solution compared to other choices. https://www.mcmaster.com/96349a305.

That separated trunk lid would actually be a pretty easy repair. No reason to remove one of the layers and the subsequent extensive repair that would require. I highly recommend 3M HSRF. Not cheap but will do the job perfectly and IMO worth it in this case to do a first class repair. Plus you'll likely use it for other parts of the build. It's good stuff. Mix up a good amount, and use a straight edge (like a 6-inch ruler or whatever) or a putty knife to push and squeeze it thoroughly into the crack. Work it enough to make sure you have the entire mating surfaces liberally coated as deep as necessary. Then use a strip of wood or metal on each side with C-clamps to pull the two sides together. Then scrape off the HSRF that squeezes out before it sets up. Let it cure and it will be straight and not come apart again. I've done these kind of repairs several times. Also, I agree HSRF doesn't sand or feather like body filler. But if you use a sanding block and sharp (e.g. new...) paper and change it often, it's not that bad. But clean it up as much as possible before it sets. If you're sanding the surrounding glass and not the HSRF, you're paper is worn out and/or you're probably not using a sanding block.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hood, trunk and door edges with that type of separation or void are very common—to some extent on almost every car. Clean it and pack it full of HSRF. Kind of surprised that FFR replaced it. I think the rivnuts get installed at their chassis assembly stage right before shipping and I bet someone grabbed your replacement lid right out of the cutter which would explain why they’re missing.

Jeff

[Avalanche325]

For the riv-nuts. I have done many with my HF tool. I would, however, either get FFR to send you what they use, or get some from McMaster. I wouldn't trust the ones that come with the HF tool for holding a trunk in place.

[Kmcallahan]

Well I went out and go me a Riv-nut tool from Harbor Freight and they came out pretty good.125053125054

Now to fitting and trimming Trunk Deck.

Thanks again for all the guidance and help.

[Kmcallahan]

Hood, trunk and door edges with that type of separation or void are very common—to some extent on almost every car. Clean it and pack it full of HSRF. Kind of surprised that FFR replaced it. I think the rivnuts get installed at their chassis assembly stage right before shipping and I bet someone grabbed your replacement lid right out of the cutter which would explain why they’re missing.

Jeff

Jeff
I was surprised also that the sent a replacement. I called just to see if they had any suggestions on how to fix. So once I am finished I may have an extra hood and trunk deck if i do not mess these up.

Callahan

[Kmcallahan]

While placing the hood into the opening to trim, I noticed that the body engine compartment opening sits off center to the chassis engine compartment framing. See pic125055125056
the Passenger side is 7/16~ and the Driver side is 3/16~, is the correct or close?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Measure from the flat portion at the top of the shock tower to the outer lip of the front wheel opening on both sides to determine when the front of the body is centered.

The hood opening is not centered on the frame rails...never has been. This photo shows that the hood is skewed with the front to the driver's side which is why the opening doesn't align with the frame rails.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125068&d=1544925801

It also shows that the radiator opening is pushed back on the driver's side and the headlights are cross eyed. Now you know why I tell you guys not to set the hood scoop by putting it on the center of the hood because that's not the center of the car :)

Jeff

[Kmcallahan]

Measure from the flat portion at the top of the shock tower to the outer lip of the front wheel opening on both sides to determine when the front of the body is centered.

The hood opening is not centered on the frame rails...never has been. This photo shows that the hood is skewed with the front to the driver's side which is why the opening doesn't align with the frame rails.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125068&d=1544925801

It also shows that the radiator opening is pushed back on the driver's side and the headlights are cross eyed. Now you know why I tell you guys not to set the hood scoop by putting it on the center of the hood because that's not the center of the car :)

Jeff

Jeff,
Thanks for the pics and the insight. I was going to cut hood for the hood scoop today. (Following the Video that FFr put out just recently. I do remember measuring the Shock tower to the outer lip of front wheel opening and they were the same. I need to check again. I will finish mounting hood today along with the latches. Thanks again for the guidance.