Screwless/Removable Dash Install Question

[D02G]

Just curious as to your installation process of mounting “L” brackets for a screwless/removable dash?

My thought was to attach (4) “L” bracket to the bottom of the hoop frame via rivnuts. Then once the body is on and dash is in place…reach underneath and mark where the “L” brackets meet the back of the dash. Next, take it all a part and epoxy the “L” bracket to the dash. The dash can then be mounted back in place and “L” brackets can be screwed into the frame.

I have the FFR Vinyl dash. Through a lot of testing JB Weld Plastic Bonder is the only epoxy that will work with that dash material.

Thanks Brian

[egchewy79]

this could work. similar to what edwardb did on his 20th anniversary build. i also did not want visible dash screws and ended up using 3M dual lock "velcro". I put some on my L brackets (used 5 on the bottom side of the dash hoop) and some on the back of the dash. I ended up slotting the bolt holes in my L brackets to be able to push the dash as flush as possible to the hoop frame. This method will not allow you to remove the dash without removing the body since the inner lip of the cowl pushes up tightly against the face of the dash, and i'd need to pull the dash forward to disengage the velcro hooks. is your dash finished already? if not, you could rivet through the front to attach the L brackets before covering it like edwardb did. you will also want to make sure your brackets are accessible from underneath. you'll find that the wires, heating tubing (if running a heater) and gauges may prevent easy access to your bracket attachments to the hoop. good luck.

[SJDave]

I like the clean look also, but wanted quick access more. So I have 4 screws visible, but they are at the very sides of the dash and not that noticeable; used slim head allen screws with black plastic washers so they don't look ugly to me.

I fabbed up some brackets that mount on top of the 2" frame tube, they have a Nylon block attached that slide up and down, so once the dash is attached you slide the dash up under the hoop, then tighten two set screws on each block. To remove the dash, just take out the 4 visible screws and it drops right down. I found I didn't need to attach at top anywhere, but I did support the dash underneath with my center console.

Good luck and have fun!

HTH
Dave

[thebicman]

You may find after time the jb weld will fail. Have used it will great success for lots of projects but with heat and vibration I would not trust it. What I used was countersunk rivets and dimpled the dash for a flush fit. After 10 years all solid.

[shark92651]

I don't see any reason to wait until the body is on. Just clamp the dash to the hoop following the guidance you can find on this forum to the proper height that it will not have interference with the body, allowing for the thickness of any covering material. Basically if no part of the dash is above the hoop, then it shouldn't contact the body. Then hold your brackets in place and mark the back of the dash. I used this method and counter suck the holes in the aluminum and used flat head bolts through the brackets, and then used some filler on top of the bolt heads and sanded it smooth so they would not print through my leather. When it comes time to put the body on, if it needs to be lowered slightly you could always add washers on top of your bracket to lower it a bit more as needed. It makes for a clean look but the downside is it will be a lot harder to remove the dash when the body is on, if you ever need to. Make sure you place your brackets in locations where you will be able to get a bit with a long extension up to the bolts. In other words, away from any under dash supports or in areas where your gauges and wiring are going to be an issue.

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https://live.staticflickr.com/1898/43359809255_29d2f5236d_c.jpg