Mustang 302 engine mount points (where?)

[jakester888]

OK guys - the teardown is making slow but steady progress.

I am now at the engine removal point (according to the MKIV manual). I have a 2 ton engine hoist, the question I have is what are the best mounting/connection points for hoisting out the engine & tranny?

Pictures would be great.

Thanks, Jake.

[jakester888]

Title correction... meant to say, "engine HOIST points".

[65 Cobra Dude]

Jake,

There are bolt holes on the driver's head front and pax head rear to put bolts in and connect the chain form the hoist. Fairly balanced with tranny when you mount the hoist there.

Henry

[jakester888]

Lift plate : do I need this and if so, 1 or 2? I assume the manifold needs to come off as well?

[65 Cobra Dude]

Lift plate generally takes the place of the carb and allows you to lift out via the intake manifold. Not sure if they even make one for the FI manifold. The 87-93 stock 5.0 had 2 brackets on the corners of the motor (I think mounted to the heads using the exhaust manifold bolts) to allow for lift out. Maybe someone on the forum still has theirs and is finished with them?

Henry

[lbperry]

You can use an existing bolt, usually at the front of the driver side head and at the rear of the passenger side head. Or you can use a bolt in one of the existing holes in those locations. As was mentioned, they usually came with a lifting plate bolted in those places. An engine leveler will make it easier to snake the engine/transmission package out. Having the radiator, etc out will make it easier also.
Good Luck,

[evvander11]

Lift plate generally takes the place of the carb and allows you to lift out via the intake manifold. Not sure if they even make one for the FI manifold. The 87-93 stock 5.0 had 2 brackets on the corners of the motor (I think mounted to the heads using the exhaust manifold bolts) to allow for lift out. Maybe someone on the forum still has theirs and is finished with them?

Henry

Here is a photo of the 2 brackets that Henry is referring to. They are mounted using the exhaust manifold bolts.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii19/evvander11/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6807.jpg

[jakester888]

Great pic - thank you.

I definately do not have those brackets up front on the manifold. I don't have the means to make them either - maybe I'll checkout eBay to find some of those.

I still think I need to remove the upper manifold. I'll post a pic to show what I mean.

Thanks, Jake.

[jakester888]

Here are some pics of the 1st attempt at hoist points (go easy on me - newbie here).

I think I MUST remove the upper manifold, because while I've successfully bolted the front part of the engine leveler, there is no room to tie into the rear (manifold in the way). Do you guys agree? Upper manifold must come off?

44864487

Thanks, Jake.

[CapeCoralCobra]

Remove the upper & you should be set.

[DARKPT]

If you're going to hang the motor that way, then you should pull the top half of the manifold. You don't want a shift in the motor as you lift it to shear a bolt or dent the mating surfaces of the manifold.

I started out with that same leveler, and ended up buying some hooks to use the stock Fox hoist points. Both are shown to decent effect in this picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/53614858@N05/6167659245/sizes/z/in/photostream/

Your approach should work fine as well!

BTW: If you're looking for pictures as you prep the donor parts, I took a bunch of them and posted them on my Flickr site. The groups listed on the right side of the page provide a little organization to the mess. :D

[65 Cobra Dude]

Jake,

I've never used a leveler to pull the motor. If you're intent on using it, yes, remove the 6 bolts and pull the upper. You'll probably have to buy a new upper to lower gasket but they are cheap. Would be a good time to clean the upper and get it ready for the looks of many people that love the car.

Henry

[jakester888]

Henry - yes I need to take the upper manifold off to clean it up anyway. Actually, I was considering a Trick Flow to replace the stock manifold. They are advertising HP gains to 350. Considering the Twisted Wedge setup. Any thoughts on this? (Probably a separate thread).

4493

[65 Cobra Dude]

Check out the Spec forum. That is similar if not the exact kit Jim is talking about for the Specs next year. It's a very good kit but I think it requires you to get headers as well. Either way, I would change the oil pump and water pump while the motor is out. Normal wear items that are much easier to change with engine on a stand.

Henry

[Jeff Kleiner]

Considering the Twisted Wedge setup. Any thoughts on this? (Probably a separate thread).



I built my engine using this setup on a freshly rebuilt forged piston 5.0 bottom end. Combined it with 24# injectors, a matched 75mm Pro-M MAF, throttle body and 4 into 4 headers. Very happy with it; nicely streetable, great torque down low and pulls hard to 6,000. As a bonus it has a perfect lump to the idle and gets 22-24 MPG at 75 MPH with 3.55 gears. Never been on a dyno so I don't know about the accuracy of their 350 HP claim but after spending some time driving a Mk4 with a 340 HP Ford Racing 306 I can say that the Trick Flow is significantly stronger :)

Jeff

[jakester888]

The engine is out!

Taking the upper manifold off and attaching to the lower manifold did the trick.

Wow - it really easier than I thought.

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[skullandbones]

Hugh sigh of relief!! :eek:

Good job. WEK.