Coyote Fuel Pump Wiring?

[Railroad]

I must have something wrong.
Gen 1 Coyote in MkIV with Ron Francis harness.
I have made a couple of short go carts and now have the body on.
Because of weather and waiting on the state to inspect, I have very little road time.
The issue, the fuel pump comes on with the key on and keeps running without starting the engine.
I called Ford Performance and was told it was normal on the Gen 1.
In prepping for putting my tunes in the ECU, I did not want the fuel pump to be running.
I like the idea of interrupting inertia switch more than unplugging it, so I put a switch on the ground side of the wiring.
To my surprise, the pump kept running with the ground interrupted.
So my inertia switch is not in the circuit for the fuel pump relay. My fuel pump relay is inside the power distribution box.
I will not be able to start work on correcting this for a while, but thought, I would ask for help, before the window opens.
I will check later, but pretty sure, I do not have a fuse in the RF fuse panel for the fuel pump. Hopefully the powder distribution box is feeding it and something else is wired wrong.
I also cut the wire on the fuse panel as instructed.
I know it is unlikely, but it acts like the relay is stuck. With the body on, it will be difficult to access the power distribution box.
I can disconnect the pump at the tank to load the ECU tunes and the car cranks and runs fine, but doubt I will be comfortable until, I get it figured out.
Thanks for any insight on checking this out and correcting.

[michael everson]

Sounds like you wired the fuel pump from the coyote directly to the hot side of the RF harness. You should have attached it to the small wire that you cut.

[Ducky2009]

As I originally read the wiring instructions, I realized doing it the way it said, I was eliminating the inertia switch. I wired per the attached pic.

[Railroad]

As I originally read the wiring instructions, I realized doing it the way is said, I was eliminating the inertia switch. I wired per the attached pic.

Well that is something, I did per the instruction, but apparently wrong.
I am glad I asked for the help and big thanks for the pic and fix.

I printed the pic and will have it in hand, when I dive under the dash.

Thanks again.

[edwardb]

Agree it sounds like you have the wrong wire attached at the RF inertia switch relay. But a word of caution. Depending on the version of RF harness you have, it may look different than the picture Ducky2009 posted. There have been changes along the way. His explanation is correct if yours looks like that. But it may not. Between this and the FF instructions which haven't always kept up, the connection can be confusing. Post a picture of yours if it isn't clear what you need to do.

[Railroad]

edwardb, thanks for the follow up and caution advise. I will try and remember to take some pictures. I am just hoping I can access the wires I need to attach.

[Jdauble]

Agree it sounds like you have the wrong wire attached at the RF inertia switch relay. But a word of caution. Depending on the version of RF harness you have, it may look different than the picture Ducky2009 posted. There have been changes along the way. His explanation is correct if yours looks like that. But it may not. Between this and the FF instructions which haven't always kept up, the connection can be confusing. Post a picture of yours if it isn't clear what you need to do.

Hey Paul,

I’m having the same confusion / wiring problem with the fuel pump as mentioned above on my Gen 3

I’m not getting 12v power at the fuel pump after splicing the green coyote wire into the tan RF harness fuse relay wire. Where did I go wrong?

Thanks, Jeff

[edwardb]

Hey Paul,

I’m having the same confusion / wiring problem with the fuel pump as mentioned above on my Gen 3

I’m not getting 12v power at the fuel pump after splicing the green coyote wire into the tan RF harness fuse relay wire. Where did I go wrong?

Thanks, Jeff

Can you post a picture of the wiring side of your RF panel? There are have several versions along the way and even one lately that appeared to be wired incorrectly from RF.

The current Factory Five instructions show wiring the pump so that all the Coyote control pack fuel pump wire does is power (and close) the RF fuel pump relay. Then the RF panel provides the actual power to the pump through the provided fuel pump wires. I prefer to wire so that the Coyote control pack does both. Provides the relay control power and the fuel pump power. Then the RF fuse is out of the circuit. No reason IMO to have two fuses. Just another possible failure point. In either case, the inertia switch is in the ground circuit for the relay and must be closed (e.g. button pushed in) for the relay and circuit to function.

Also, I assume you understand the Coyote control pack (Gen 2 and Gen 3) only power the fuel pump briefly when the key is turned on. Like maybe 1-2 seconds. It pressurizes the system and then waits for the engine to start. If you turn the key back off, it takes 10 seconds or so for the system to reset and briefly power the pump again. Some have interpreted this as the fuel pump circuit not working. It's by design by Ford.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

FWIW 1st generation Coyote & Control Pack. I just let the fuel pump run during programming. System is a return type so I don't think their is any danger from that point of a pressure build up. Any car I am programming I always have the battery charger attached & running.

[Jdauble]

130240

Not a great photo, but I currently have green Coyote pigtail wire soldered onto orange relay wire and not getting proper voltage to the fuel pump. Also could use some guidance on adding a toggle switch to shut off fuel pump if that’s recommended. Thanks in advance for your help.

Jeff

[edwardb]

130240

Not a great photo, but I currently have green Coyote pigtail wire soldered onto orange relay wire and not getting proper voltage to the fuel pump. Also could use some guidance on adding a toggle switch to shut off fuel pump if that’s recommended. Thanks in advance for your help.

Jeff

That should work. That's the version where the Coyote pigtail is only energizing the relay and the actual pump +12V is coming from the RF panel. First do a little electrical troubleshooting. Using a VOM and probe, with the ignition switch ON:

- You should have +12V at the RF fuel pump fuse location. Both sides of the where the brown and red wires are coming out of the panel. Confirms you have +12V fuel pump power in the panel plus the fuse is OK.

- When you turn the key on, you should read +12V very briefly on the orange wire that's been cut and attached to the Coyote pigtail green wire. Have your probe in place before turning the key on. It happens quick. And takes about 10 seconds to reset after you turn the key off, as I mentioned before. You can hear the relay in the Coyote PDB click when it resets.

- You should also hear the RF relay click closed and the fuel pump briefly run when first turning the key on or after allowing it to reset and turn the key on again.

- If you have +12V on the orange wire that's been cut and attached to the Coyote pigtail green wire, and the relay isn't clicking and/or fuel pump running, the problem is on the RF side. Check to make sure your inertia switch is in the circuit, is wired properly, and the button is pushed. With the button down, the inertia switch should provide continuity to ground for the relay. In the past, the inertia switch had NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) terminals. There were some reports of the connector from RF not being wired correctly, e.g. with the button pushed it was open instead of closed.

- If you don't have +12V on the orange wire that's been cut and attached to the Coyote pigtail green wire, then the problem is likely on the Coyote side. First place to check would be fuses and relays in the Coyote PDB.

Hopefully that gets you started and finds something. Easiest way to put a switch on the fuel pump would be to add a switch on the inertia switch wire, e.g. between the RF panel and the switch. Should be normally closed. But can be switched off (open) to break the ground for the fuel pump relay. Some thing the inertia switch does. I did that on my 25th Anniversary build and hid the switch under the dash. I've literally never used it.

[Jdauble]

That should work. That's the version where the Coyote pigtail is only energizing the relay and the actual pump +12V is coming from the RF panel. First do a little electrical troubleshooting. Using a VOM and probe, with the ignition switch ON:

- You should have +12V at the RF fuel pump fuse location. Both sides of the where the brown and red wires are coming out of the panel. Confirms you have +12V fuel pump power in the panel plus the fuse is OK.

- When you turn the key on, you should read +12V very briefly on the orange wire that's been cut and attached to the Coyote pigtail green wire. Have your probe in place before turning the key on. It happens quick. And takes about 10 seconds to reset after you turn the key off, as I mentioned before. You can hear the relay in the Coyote PDB click when it resets.

- You should also hear the RF relay click closed and the fuel pump briefly run when first turning the key on or after allowing it to reset and turn the key on again.

- If you have +12V on the orange wire that's been cut and attached to the Coyote pigtail green wire, and the relay isn't clicking and/or fuel pump running, the problem is on the RF side. Check to make sure your inertia switch is in the circuit, is wired properly, and the button is pushed. With the button down, the inertia switch should provide continuity to ground for the relay. In the past, the inertia switch had NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) terminals. There were some reports of the connector from RF not being wired correctly, e.g. with the button pushed it was open instead of closed.

- If you don't have +12V on the orange wire that's been cut and attached to the Coyote pigtail green wire, then the problem is likely on the Coyote side. First place to check would be fuses and relays in the Coyote PDB.

Hopefully that gets you started and finds something. Easiest way to put a switch on the fuel pump would be to add a switch on the inertia switch wire, e.g. between the RF panel and the switch. Should be normally closed. But can be switched off (open) to break the ground for the fuel pump relay. Some thing the inertia switch does. I did that on my 25th Anniversary build and hid the switch under the dash. I've literally never used it.

Thanks Paul,
This helps with troubleshooting tips, but I’m still running into issues. Here’s what I’ve found in regards to your suggestions above:

1) Yes, confirmed that I have +12v at the fuse and the tan jumper over to the relay

2) Yes, confirmed that with ignition switch energized I have voltage at the orange / green wire off the relay, but not 12v... the output never exceeds 9.6v No sign of relay clicking? And I have a constant 4.9v at the fuel pump harness, nothing higher ��

3) Yes, confirmed with inertia switch depressed that I have ground continuity at the relay, and not when the inertia switch is “rattled” open

4) Yes, I was able to use the 12v license plate wire to test the fuel pump, and it runs while energized. I was able to adjust the psi at the pressure regulator, and confirmed that there are no fuel leaks.. so that’s some positive news today. ��

5) I do not see any bad fuses in either the RF or Coyote panel and I replaced the fuel relay with another to verify that the relay was not the problem.

Obviously I have an electrical issue somewhere in the system ... open to any other ideas and suggestions? My Father’s Day present to myself was going to be a 1st engine start ��

[phileas_fogg]

With respect to voltage seen at the fuel pump, does your tan RF wire coming out of the relay go into a single pin weather pak connector? Which then goes in to the main trunk of the harness before popping out at the multi- (4?) pin connector to the rear harness?

If so, probe both ends of that single pin weather pak connector. On my car (many RF versions prior to yours; mine is Rev N), that connector was intermittent. I ended up eliminating it. Also probe both ends of the connector to the rear harness.

On a related note, if you choose to let the Coyote control pack power the pump, I recommend you de-pin the tan RF wire from the connector to the rear harness, and re-pin the Coyote fuel pump power there. If you do this, either repurpose the fuel pump circuit or pull the fuse; you don't want a hot +12V wire floating around behind your dash.


John

[edwardb]

2) Yes, confirmed that with ignition switch energized I have voltage at the orange / green wire off the relay, but not 12v... the output never exceeds 9.6v No sign of relay clicking? And I have a constant 4.9v at the fuel pump harness, nothing higher ��

Everything you’ve described except this point seems as expected. Hopefully you understand with the wiring configuration used the voltage you’re reading from the orange/green wire off the relay is from the Coyote PDB and the voltage you’re reading at the fuel pump is from the RF harness. The fact that both appear to be lower than expected is a little strange IMO. But I will stress again the voltage you’re reading at the orange/green wire only appears briefly to energize the system. So maybe however you’re reading the voltage isn’t quick enough. The voltage you’d read at the pump would also be quick and not constant until the engine is running and the Coyote system commands it to run constantly.

Here’s another test that I’d do if it were me. Turn the ignition key on. Using a jumper from a known +12V source or even from the battery directly apply +12V to the relay terminal where the orange/green wire is connected. This should close the relay and the pump should run as long as you hold the +12 volts on the terminal. Obviously the fuel pump should be connected to the RF fuel pump connector. If the pump runs, that confirms the RF part of the setup is working and the problem is on the Coyote side. If that doesn’t cause the pump to run, then something on the RF side.

I’m assuming everything else is working OK and your battery is fully charged and healthy. Obviously a low battery level could cause multiple issues including low voltage. Another common cause of low/erratic voltage measurements is ground issues. There was another thread with a Coyote issue (erratic starting) and the forum member just reported finding a defective ground wire in the Coyote harness.

Finally, I’m assuming you have gas in the tank. Never a good idea to run an in-tank fuel pump in a dry tank. If you do, very briefly. Also using the license plate wire is maybe a little marginal. Not much current in that circuit. Would be easy to pop the fuse.


With respect to voltage seen at the fuel pump, does your tan RF wire coming out of the relay go into a single pin weather pak connector? Which then goes in to the main trunk of the harness before popping out at the multi- (4?) pin connector to the rear harness?

If so, probe both ends of that single pin weather pak connector. On my car (many RF versions prior to yours; mine is Rev N), that connector was intermittent. I ended up eliminating it. Also probe both ends of the connector to the rear harness.

On a related note, if you choose to let the Coyote control pack power the pump, I recommend you de-pin the tan RF wire from the connector to the rear harness, and re-pin the Coyote fuel pump power there. If you do this, either repurpose the fuel pump circuit or pull the fuse; you don't want a hot +12V wire floating around behind your dash.
John

This would work but I personally would not recommend without other modifications. The RF panel provides an inertia switch function. Wiring the pump directly in this manner would bypass the inertia switch which is a safety feature.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Hi Guys,

What is the best relay to use for the fuel pump? Noticed mine getting hot to the touch.

[edwardb]

Hi Guys,

What is the best relay to use for the fuel pump? Noticed mine getting hot to the touch.

Assume you mean the fuel pump relay in the RF panel? It's a 15 amp circuit and if you're running the typical 255 lph (or less) in-tank pump shouldn't pull more than 9/10/11 amps at most. Could be the relay is failing, and you can easily replace it. Standard automotive style 5-terminal relay. There are a lot of cheap ones out there. I try to find a name brand one like Bosch or Tyco, and typically for this size and type they're rated at 30-40 amps. More than should be going through that circuit with the wiring sizes it has. Maybe yours is failing. The ones that come with the RF panel look to be pretty cheap ones. Maybe replacing with a higher quality one would help. If your pump is pulling more than the rated 15 amps that's a different issue.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Assume you mean the fuel pump relay in the RF panel? It's a 15 amp circuit and if you're running the typical 255 lph (or less) in-tank pump shouldn't pull more than 9/10/11 amps at most. Could be the relay is failing, and you can easily replace it. Standard automotive style 5-terminal relay. There are a lot of cheap ones out there. I try to find a name brand one like Bosch or Tyco, and typically for this size and type they're rated at 30-40 amps. More than should be going through that circuit with the wiring sizes it has. Maybe yours is failing. The ones that come with the RF panel look to be pretty cheap ones. Maybe replacing with a higher quality one would help. If your pump is pulling more than the rated 15 amps that's a different issue.

Thanks will try a new Bosch or Tyco relay.

One additional thing. Am finishing up wiring the Speedhut gauges. The Volt meter's main yellow lead just says 12 volt source. Is it a switched or constant 12 volts? The old Auto-Meter gauge ran off the Brown gauge power supply so I assume the SH unit also wants switched power.

Plan was just to take the lead straight to the switched power post I have as I am not using any of the brown wire.

[edwardb]

Thanks will try a new Bosch or Tyco relay.

One additional thing. Am finishing up wiring the Speedhut gauges. The Volt meter's main yellow lead just says 12 volt source. Is it a switched or constant 12 volts? The old Auto-Meter gauge ran off the Brown gauge power supply so I assume the SH unit also wants switched power.

Plan was just to take the lead straight to the switched power post I have as I am not using any of the brown wire.

Right. Connect the voltmeter to the brown gauge switched feed. Could be any other switched feed. But that one works and I think is pretty typical.

[Jdauble]

130240

Not a great photo, but I currently have green Coyote pigtail wire soldered onto orange relay wire and not getting proper voltage to the fuel pump. Also could use some guidance on adding a toggle switch to shut off fuel pump if that’s recommended. Thanks in advance for your help.

Jeff

After quite a bit of troubleshooting with help from Paul and others, I finally resolved my electrical issues with the fuel pump. I found the fuel pump wires on either end of the RF harness pinned to different locations within the weather pack plug. Once resolved, Fathers Day saw my first engine start! 😀
IMG_6377.jpeg

[edwardb]

After quite a bit of troubleshooting with help from Paul and others, I finally resolved my electrical issues with the fuel pump. I found the fuel pump wires on either end of the RF harness pinned to different locations within the weather pack plug. Once resolved, Fathers Day saw my first engine start! ��

Way to go! Electrical issues almost always have a logical cause/effect and good you finally found it. That last test I suggested would have confirmed the problem was on the RF side, and now you know why. That seems to be one of the most common quality issues with the RF harness, e.g. wires not pinned correctly through connectors. Maybe should add that as the first thing to check in the future.

Congrats on your first start. That's the one thing about Coyotes. With everything wired properly, they usually start right up. You're going to love how it runs. Your picture isn't showing BTW.

[phileas_fogg]

Glad you found the problem; well done!

I agree with Paul in post #14; you'd definitely want to figure out how to keep the inertia switch in your fuel pump circuit if you wire the fuel pump like I recommended. For my Holley Terminator system, moving the switch was trivial. I expect it would be easy enough for the Coyote as well, but have no first-hand knowledge or experience.


John

[mdutton11]

130240

Not a great photo, but I currently have green Coyote pigtail wire soldered onto orange relay wire and not getting proper voltage to the fuel pump. Also could use some guidance on adding a toggle switch to shut off fuel pump if that’s recommended. Thanks in advance for your help.

Jeff

Sio I have the same RF fuse box / wiring setup as Jdauble and am trying to figure out wiring for a holley sniper EFI. I was planning to run the blue wire from holley EFI (I assume the same as green from Coyote) the same way Jdauble did but it sounds like he ran into some issues. Is that the correct wiring?

[dbo_texas]

Bringing this thread back to life, as I'm finally at this point in my build. I'm a little confused by the FFR instructions. My fuse panel and fuel pump relay wiring look just like the FFR Coyote Fitment instructions (rev 2B). The instructions say to cut the orange wire going to the fuel pump relay and attach it to the green "Fuel Pump Relay Out" wire on the Coyote pigtail. If I'm not mistaken, the orange wire is the +12V IGN trigger on the coil side of the relay (the opposite side is the coil ground going to the inertia switch, then to ground). The two tan wires on the relay I believe are the powered device side of the relay (one side is the 12V source from the RF 15A fuse, and the other is the output to the RF rear harness where it will power the fuel pump). If I cut and solder per the instructions, is the green FUEL PUMP RELAY OUT from the Coyote pigtail just being used as the positive coil trigger for the relay? What does the smaller light green IGNITION TRIGGER RELAY do in the Coyote pigtail? I see it gets connected to the RF orange EFI wire which is just a 12V IGN source (I'm actually planning to attach it to the TAN-ELECTRIC CHOKE wire instead - should serve the same purpose).

I saw some others mention that they prefer to let the Coyote ECU control both the trigger AND the power to the fuel pump. In that situation, does the green FUEL PUMP RELAY OUT to directly to the rear harness and on to the pump? Just trying to understand this before I tape the harness back up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194580&d=1705354240

[michael everson]

The trigger wire is what turns the whole system on. It goes to the orange wire that is labeled EFI. Not to be confused with the orange wire at the fuel pump relay.
Mike

[dbo_texas]

OK I think after reading a bit more HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?39872-Coyote-fuel-pump-fuse-panel-wiring&p=457902&viewfull=1#post457902), I think I get it. Looks like I have a choice if I want to just trigger the relay w/ the Coyote ECU, or trigger AND power the fuel pump from the Coyote ECU. If I wanted to have the Coyote harness drive both the relay coil (trigger) AND provide power to the fuel pump (via the switched side) of the relay, I would need to cut both the orange AND tan wires, and hook them both up to the green FUEL PUMP RELAY OUT wire from the Coyote pigtail harness. This would then serve as both the trigger and the switched power on the relay. I could then cap the orange clipped wired going to the fuse panel, and maybe repurpose the tan wire (since it is on a 15A fuse in the RF panel) for a different circuit (seat heaters?).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194581&d=1705355327

[michael everson]

No. If your going to use the coyote large green wire for the fuel pump, only connect it to the orange wire on the relay and attach the green to it. DO NOT cut the tan wire. Do it exactly like the manual says. Or just leave it and let the RF harness control the fuel pump. Either works exactly the same.
Mike

[dbo_texas]

No. If your going to use the coyote large green wire for the fuel pump, only connect it to the orange wire on the relay and attach the green to it. DO NOT cut the tan wire. Do it exactly like the manual says. Or just leave it and let the RF harness control the fuel pump. Either works exactly the same.
Mike

Hey Mike - just curious why you advise NOT to drive the relay coil trigger and switched power side from the Coyote harness (green wire)? The comments in THIS THREAD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?39872-Coyote-fuel-pump-fuse-panel-wiring&p=457902&viewfull=1#post457902) seem to indicate this is OK, and maybe even preferred because it eliminates having both the RF fuse and Coyote fuses in series in the fuel pump circuit. Not trying to start a "who's right" discussion, just curious if there are any downsides to drive the fuel pump relay trigger and switched power with the Coyote ECU and harness? I ended up modifying my RF fuse panel last night to do it this way, and also rerouted the original 15A fused circuit powering the fuel pump (tan wire) to be used for my seat heaters. I clipped the 12V batter feed to that fuse, and tied it to the IGN power rail instead. I haven't installed the harness yet, so if I need to rip it out and re-do it (per the FFR Coyote Fitment instructions), I'd rather do it now vs later. But before I do that, I want to make sure either method is OK (seems like it to me after reading several threads).

[edwardb]

I stayed out of this discussion because (1) I haven't wired one of these for several years now, and (2) both the Ron Francis harness and Factory Five instructions changed several times over the years I've been doing this and often didn't keep up with each other. So confusing at best. Rather than citing specific wire colors, both the two Coyote builds and LS3 build I wired so that (1) the crate motor power distribution box 100% powered the fuel pump and related. The Ron Francis fuel pump circuit had the fuse removed. I see zero issues with this. In both cases (Ford and GM) the power distribution boxes had very robust relay and fuse circuits and could easily handle the current. Plus eliminated a second source of failure, e.g. a second fuse in the RF panel. And (2) I wired the pumps so that the inertia switch was used. Some of the Factory Five instructions (maybe not the most current one) broke into the RF circuit in a way that negated the inertia switch. IMO, an important safety feature that needs to be part of the installation.

[dbo_texas]

I stayed out of this discussion because (1) I haven't wired one of these for several years now, and (2) both the Ron Francis harness and Factory Five instructions changed several times over the years I've been doing this and often didn't keep up with each other. So confusing at best. Rather than citing specific wire colors, both the two Coyote builds and LS3 build I wired so that (1) the crate motor power distribution box 100% powered the fuel pump and related. The Ron Francis fuel pump circuit had the fuse removed. I see zero issues with this. In both cases (Ford and GM) the power distribution boxes had very robust relay and fuse circuits and could easily handle the current. Plus eliminated a second source of failure, e.g. a second fuse the RF panel. And (2) I wired the pumps so that the inertia switch was used. Some of the Factory Five instructions (maybe not the most current one) broke into the RF circuit in a way that negated the inertia switch. IMO, an important safety feature that needs to be part of the installation.

I think that's the way I have it set up currently, and plan to keep it this way unless someone can provide good reason not to. I'm using the Coyote ECU (via the green pigtail wire from Coyote Harness) to provide the positive coil trigger & device power to the RF relay. I'm going through the RF relay so I can keep the inertia switch in the circuit (as the ground path for the RF fuel pump relay coil trigger). I kept my fuel pump fuse in the RF fuse panel but repurposed that circuit for my seat heaters. As originally wired, this fuse was tied to battery power not IGN power, so I cut that feed to the fuse and jumped it to the IGN busbar inside the fuse panel. I wanted to make sure my seat heaters are on the IGN feed, not the BATT feed.

[jgray]

Nice idea of rewiring the fusebox to move the circuits from unswitched to switched. I had not thought about doing that.
How many amps do the seat heaters drawer? Just thinking of the additional ampage running on the ignition feed and through that circuit which goes from the battery to the ignition switch (via the starter solenoid) to the fuse box.
I’ve been working on my electrical for six months and have learned a lot, and keep changing things as I learn more - LOL

[dbo_texas]

Nice idea of rewiring the fusebox to move the circuits from unswitched to switched. I had not thought about doing that.
How many amps do the seat heaters drawer? Just thinking of the additional ampage running on the ignition feed and through that circuit which goes from the battery to the ignition switch (via the starter solenoid) to the fuse box.
I’ve been working on my electrical for six months and have learned a lot, and keep changing things as I learn more - LOL

I believe the typical seat heater draws 8-10A if I remember correctly, so the 15A Fuel Pump fuse should be sufficient (I think). If you are a visual person like me, here's what I did below. Note that this reverses the direction of current flow through the original fuel pump fuse (repurposed for my seat heaters). Originally, 12V Battery power goes into the left side of the fuse, and out the right side to the relay. In my modified version, I have IGN feed going into the right side of the fuse, and out the left side (to the seat heaters). The fuse isn't polarized and doesn't care about direction.

ORIGINAL RF FUSE PANEL (for my version of the harness at least - I know it has changed over the years but this is what I've got):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194603&d=1705511493

MODIFIED RF FUSE PANEL:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194602&d=1705511493

[cdurbin328]

I had the same issue with my Gen 2 install. Turned out to be that the Ron Francis fuse panel was wired incorrectly. The input wire for the fuel pump was connected to the "Bat" terminal on the ignition switch so it was getting constant power. The fuel pump relay was also pinned wrong. It has a 4 pin relay and one of the pins was in the center position "for a 5 pin". Once I found and fixed those things I was in business. It was a little frustrating since I spent a good week trying to figure out and it turned out to be a supplier defect.