Torque: What are the common things that need to be torqued?

[AdamIsAdam]

I have a new-to-me MKIV. It's got 1,400 miles on it but was completed 6 years ago. I'll have it up on a lift tomorrow for a thorough once over and full fluid change. Many of the nuts in the front end have production assembly pen marks showing their location once torqued down to spec.

What are the common bolts and nuts to check for and to re-torque?

I have the 538 page manual, but if anyone has a cheat sheet of torque settings, feel free to share!

THANKS

[Jim Wehr]

Always check Torque Specs with manufacturer and your manual. Do not solely rely on this sheet





FFR published Torque specs





Front Suspension per FFR manual





Adjustable Front upper A-Arms (2 bolts)

100



Adjustable Front upper A-Arms pivot bolts (3 bolts)

60



Upper Ball joint into the spindle (IFS bracket)

70-90



Spindle adaptor bracket/upper A-arm to spindle using factory strut bolts

140-200



Front LCA to frame

110-150



Spindle assembly to LCA on frame using Mustang Crown nut

80-120



Upper A-arm bolts to mount plate on frame

100-120



Rear End Suspension per FFR manual





Lower shock bracket through the traction lock bracket at stock location

55-70



Rear vertical shock at the top through holes in the plate located in trunk area using mustang fasteners

27



Upper control Arm to axle

70-100



Upper control arm to frame

80-105



LCA to axle

70-100



LCA to frame

80-105



Lower vertical shock to axle bracket

45-60



Quad shock bracket to frame

56-70



Quad shock to bracket

56-70



Quad shock to axle

56-70



Rear Suspension using 3-Link option per FFR manual











Rear Suspension using IRS per FFR manual





Spindle attachment bolts

100



Oil Filter relocation kit per FFR manual





Relocate kit fittings (using Teflon)

28



Roll Bars per FFR manual





Roll Bars using kit fasteners

14



Torque Specs according to FFR Build School at Mott Community College hand out material and documents





Front suspension





Upper control Arms adjustment bolts

60



Upper control Arms mounting bolts

100



Bracket (Spindle)

70



Shock (bottom)

70



LCA

110-150



Shock Bracket (Lower Arm)

55-70



Ball Joint (upper)

80-120



Ball Joint (lower)

80-120



Rear Suspension





Upper control Arm to axle

70-100



Upper control Arm to frame

80-105



Lower Control Arm to axle bracket

70-100



Lower Control Arm to frame

80-105



Lower Control Arm Bracket to axle

90



Shock Bracket, Lower

55-70



Shock, Top

25-30



Shock bottom

45-60



Quad Shock bracket to frame

56-70



Quad Shock to bracket

56-70



Quad shock to axle

56-70



Rear Suspension (3-Link)





Pan hard Bar

250



Upper frame mount

90



Rear Suspension (IRS)





Rear Axle nut

250



Shock (upper/lower)

70



Spindle attachment

100



Driveshaft to center section

70-95



Steering Rack/Shaft





Steering Rack Bolts

30-40



Tie Rod Ends

25-35



Pillow blocks

20



Exhaust





Straight Pipe

35



Engine/Transmission





Transmission Mounts (Tranny to mount)

25-35



Transmission mount (Mount to frame)

25-35



Engine mount (Engine to mount)

35-60



Engine mount (Mount to frame)

50-105



Driveshaft bolts

70-95



Lights/ Trim accessories





Windshield

90



Quick Jacks

60



Body Bolts

20



Miscellaneous





Wheel lug nuts

80-105



Pedal box (front plate upper)

35



Pedal box (Frame down tube)

10

[Avalanche325]

On the suspension, every nut and bolt, front and rear. I do mine once a year.
Drive shaft bolts and safety loop,
Engine and transmission mounts.
Snug your oil pan while you are there. Gently, no need to be a gorilla.
Steering shaft.
All engine front and accessory bolts.


If you have the old style UCAs, I recommend doing this once a year, or if it ever starts to squeak. You should replace the stover nuts when you do this. You can get them at Summit racing. It will not mess up your alignment.
1. Remove the wheel.
2. Loosen the two bolts that hold the arm to the pivot.
3. Take the front bolt out and swing the whole unit back to disconnect it from the pivot. (Hint, the steering wheel can help)
4. Move the pivot with your fingers. It should move very easily and smoothly. If not, take it off and clean it and the shaft. Polish with very fine sandpaper if needed.
5. Grease and re-attach the front and do the rear.

[AdamIsAdam]

Thanks! Now if it will just not snow tonight I'll be good!

[CraigS]

It's nice to have the specs especially during the build but later? If you need to disassemble something it's nice to have specs during reassembly. It will be nice for the OP to have specs since the car is new to him and he wants to double check the previous owners work. But otherwise? IMHO, if it was assembled properly initially, I see no reason to check torque again. That's why the specs are used in the first place. Also, to properly check torque you need to loosen the bolt/nut and then torque it tight.

[AdamIsAdam]

Thanks everyone. I went over the entire car (well, most of it). The only bolts out of spec were the lower rear control arm bolts. No biggie. Oh, and one more set of bolt were out. Check this out!!!

123770

This is the third car in a row that I found the bolts on the ring gear was backed out! One, I had the rear end professional rebuilt with new gears and posi carrier and one bolt fell out, and the ring gear grabbed it like a batting cage pitching machine and tossed it partially through the diff cover! Car #2 I was changing the fluid and discovered 3 bolts backed out a few turns (I bought the car with that rear end in it). So yesterday, while changing all fluids, I decided to check all the ring bolts. First of all, they were torqued to I would guess about 60ft lbs. I read on line that it should be 95-102 for an 8.8 rear. And sure enough, one was backed out! I think this is my new annual maintenance check - pulling cover and checking bolts! WTH!