wax and degreaser AFTER evercoat rage?

[tony]

I've seen some comments back and forth on whether you can clean the body with wax and grease remover after evercoat rage and also after slicksand.

Can I use this stuff that I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00397L0DC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (active ingredients alcohol, xylene and distillate)
Or just clean with scotch pad and blow off?

[Presto51]

I've seen some comments back and forth on whether you can clean the body with wax and grease remover after evercoat rage and also after slicksand.

Can I use this stuff that I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00397L0DC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (active ingredients alcohol, xylene and distillate)
Or just clean with scotch pad and blow off?

My opinion is that you can't use grease and wax remover/cleaner enough times.

If you just use a "clean scotch pad and blow off, your going to run the risk of leaving some kind of evil on the surface, which will give you all kinds of grief.

I have fought the fish eye battle many a time, and never really won.

Ron

[first time builder]

I agree with presto ! You should use wax and grease remover before you start to sand the gelcoat as you dont want to "push" the surface oils into the lower layers. This goes with all layers. Just the normal grease from your skin can cause problems. It is tempting to run your hand over freshly sanded surface, but that is actually putting your skin oils on the surface. If you want to do that use thin vinyl gloves or use Wax and grease after you touch the body.
Ken

[tony]

I've done the wash and cleaner/degreaser prior to blocking the gelcoat. It seems though that the pro painters (jeff's) recommend no solvents AFTER
starting the filler stage. Apparently the solvent can get trapped in the porous filler and become a problem.

[AJT '33]

i've done the wash and cleaner/degreaser prior to blocking the gelcoat. It seems though that the pro painters (jeff's) recommend no solvents after
starting the filler stage. Apparently the solvent can get trapped in the porous filler and become a problem.

100% agree with Tony and Jeff!!!!

[HVACMAN]

I've done the wash and cleaner/degreaser prior to blocking the gelcoat. It seems though that the pro painters (jeff's) recommend no solvents AFTER
starting the filler stage. Apparently the solvent can get trapped in the porous filler and become a problem.

I will be starting this process before long. So if you don't use any solvents after starting the filler. What should you use?

[AJT '33]

I will be starting this process before long. So if you don't use any solvents after starting the filler. What should you use?

Its a simple wipe down with a new rag then a tack rag (don't blow it off with your air hose as there may be contaminants in the hose or nozzle that will be sprayed onto your surface), the first sanding primer will be absorbed into the putty to seal it. What I had done is seal the surface, then a light sand, then a sanding primer, then you can use pre-washes between coats of primer and before your base coat, after that no more pre-washes.

[tony]

What do you mean by prewash?

[AJT '33]

What do you mean by prewash?

Apologize, pre-wash or pre-clean, certain paint products require or recommend a pre-clean to remove any possible contaminants on the surface just prior to laying the base coat down. This evaporates very quickly and provides a clean surface free of contaminants, this is usually followed by passing a tack cloth just prior to laying down the base coat.

An example would be like for my car, I used House of Kolor base coat and after the primer coat and before the Base coat was applied I cleaned the surface with KC10 which is a wax and degreaser & KC20 which is a post sanding cleaner, which is their pre-clean products. Most auto body shops have this from various manufacturers, depending on the product line they use. Here is a site that explains it well: https://houseof1000kolors.com/collections/house-of-kolor-kleaners-kc-line/products/kc20hok

Hope this helps, my final product results following HOK instructions: 123290 before polishing