Rivet head

[vtullomk4]

All my MK4 panels are drilled. Waiting on powder coating. My question is the rivet head. IMHO, the FF supplied rivet heads appear to be a bit small at 1/4". I'm thinking of getting 1/8" rivets with a larger head, especially where they show. 3/8". Is this a good idea or just stay with FF. Thanks.

[Papa]

The FFR supplied rivets will definitely get the job done. If the small head doesn't appeal to you, get whatever you prefer. It's your car and you have to be happy with it when it's done.

[GoDadGo]

Here is a possible source for most riveting needs:

https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets/open-end-blind-rivets

[Jeff Kleiner]

If your preference for a large head rivet is just for appearance then sure, suit yourself however if you think a change is needed for functionality it is not necessary.

Jeff

[Avalanche325]

Here is one thing to consider. As pretty much everyone uses the standard rivets and is used to seeing them, yours will look strange or even "wrong" to other Cobra people. But if being different is your thing, go for it.

[steno]

Like Mr Kleiner states, the standard head rivets will do the job. Once the sealer/adhesive cures on the panel joints, they’re pretty much just filling the holes you’ve drilled anyway.

[Scottmillhouse]

I don’t know if anyone else has done this. From my experience building airplanes I have used a lot of squeezed and pulled flush rivets. I have switched to them in some locations for cosmetic purposes. Machine counter sink and they will sit flush. Great to use where you may want to use vinyl covering like shift tunnel cover, front of tunnel. Thinking of also drilling out and replacing with them so I can cover the bulkhead behind the seats with vinyl too.

[Avalanche325]

I have used flush pop-rivets in a few places like those you mentioned. I find that they don't have the same holding power, which pretty much makes sense.

[Scottmillhouse]

I have used flush pop-rivets in a few places like those you mentioned. I find that they don't have the same holding power, which pretty much makes sense.
In aircraft applications when joining skins and ribs you dimple the parts which nests them to give much more strength. That is a different situation than on our cars. In planes the skins carry much of the loads but with the car it has a full structural frame so the aluminum is adding little strength, basically we are just closing out the structure. There are different varieties of flush pulled rivets with soft aluminum with aluminum shanks that hold little up to full stainless steel that you need a pneumatic puller to even install. I have found the Cherry variety has the same strength as the FFR supplied rivets.

[vtullomk4]

This forum continues to be amazing. Thanks for the multiple replies and insights.

Based on your inputs I have decided on standard sized black rivets from McMaster-Carr. I had a test 122539panel powder coated and put in some rivets. Looks great.

Thanks again.

Vince

[Jdav]

I don’t know if anyone else has done this. From my experience building airplanes I have used a lot of squeezed and pulled flush rivets. I have switched to them in some locations for cosmetic purposes. Machine counter sink and they will sit flush. Great to use where you may want to use vinyl covering like shift tunnel cover, front of tunnel. Thinking of also drilling out and replacing with them so I can cover the bulkhead behind the seats with vinyl too.

I did this, but have a cool it heat shield and a layer of volara foam between the vinyl and panel and cant see any of the rivets: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23204-JDav-s-MK4-9028-Build-Thread&p=293059&viewfull=1#post293059

[Avalanche325]

In aircraft applications when joining skins and ribs you dimple the parts which nests them to give much more strength. That is a different situation than on our cars. In planes the skins carry much of the loads but with the car it has a full structural frame so the aluminum is adding little strength, basically we are just closing out the structure. There are different varieties of flush pulled rivets with soft aluminum with aluminum shanks that hold little up to full stainless steel that you need a pneumatic puller to even install. I have found the Cherry variety has the same strength as the FFR supplied rivets.

I was thinking that aircraft rivets would be different than the pop-rivets that we use. I don't think I would get in an airplane that used ones like I have. The heads are pretty flimsy. I'll look up the Cherry ones. Always fun to learn something for future use.

Do you stack the panels and dimple them together? Do you drill a countersink, or is the dimple itself the countersink?

[Scottmillhouse]

Do you stack the panels and dimple them together? Do you drill a countersink, or is the dimple itself the countersink?

Actually I bought my project with no rivets so I really don't know what FFR supplies. I'm just using the aircraft variety of pulled rivets since I have an ample supply. Only the slower light sport planes use pulled rivets. All other ones are solid and squeezed or pounded with a rivet driver and bucking bar. I've done tens of thousand of them building planes. Process is to drill holes of matching parts under size and cleco parts together then match drill to final, debur, then dimple both parts separately, nest, cleco and pound or squeeze rivets. On thicker skins and members you machine countersink to create the depression for the rivet head. That is what I have done for the cosmetic areas that use thick aluminum.