Decisions on parts

[SteveP]

My kit arrived about two weeks ago and I've started building. It's addictive fun. I would rather be building than chasing parts but I need to make some decisions and I don't have any experience to guide me. I would appreciate any advice, especially from those of you with some experience and maybe a few mistakes so I don't have to make them myself. I'm building a complete kit with IRS and will use it almost exclusively as an occasional street cruiser. I say" almost" because my wife has challenged me to a grudge drag race against her Tesla. That is the only race I expect. I've found a local engine builder who is meeting me in his shop on weekends so we can work together to build my engine. I'm learning a lot and we are about half done. The cam, crank, pistons, and lifters are in. Next weekend we'll put the heads on. It is a Dart block 351 W stroked to 427 with AFR heads. Should sound good.
1. What do I need for a clutch and flywheel? Is a cast flywheel ok for a street engine tuned for torque and not rpm? Is an organic clutch plate ok or do I need kevlar?
2. I will need a front belt system for an alternator and power steering pump. I like the look of a low mount alternator on the passenger side. Will it fit? It seems that most of the pictures show a high mount. Any advice on a system that will line up correctly without a lot of part substitution? Some of the threads recount multiple calls to the parts suppliers, custom spacers and frustration. I would like to avoid that. I would prefer satin finished aluminum with smallish brackets. Is there a power steering pump that works best with the FFR power steering rack?
3. Tires for the FFR 17 inch wheels. Other than the one drag race, I'm looking for a nice street tire without spending a lot of money for capability I don't need. What have others been happy with?
Thanks for your help. I've read a number of threads and I'm very impressed with the helpfulness shown by experienced builders to beginners like me.

[CraigS]

I use a Spec2+ clutch and flywheel on my 408. Very reasonable effort. Call Spec and ask their recommendation.
I have a low mount alt on mine. Just keep it in mind when you install the brake line going to the RF wheel.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4210/34978605554_e12b22aeac_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VhWuN7)IMG_20160128_140118297 (https://flic.kr/p/VhWuN7) by craig stuard (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/), on Flickr
The Nitto NT555G2 is a good all around tire. Apparently FFR is offering Mickey Thompson tires. I haven't been able to verify which model but the Street Comps I have on the back are also a decent tire.

[Sdonnel]

I'll give a second vote to the Nitto's. Great tires. For accessory mounting options, you can look at the CVF racing website. They have all kinds of options for dressing the front end.

Scott

[mike223]

1. What do I need for a clutch and flywheel? Is a cast flywheel ok for a street engine tuned for torque and not rpm? Is an organic clutch plate ok or do I need kevlar?



Opinions will vary, but any Mustang GT clutch will do the job - These cars spin the tires or go (at least 1000 lbs lighter than Mustang GT), you're not going to overpower the clutch (I have over 500ftlbs torque and a stockish Mustang GT clutch - no problem).

Steel vs iron on the fly wheel - it's your knee(s) sitting next to it - I have a steel SFI flywheel inside a Quicktime SFI bellhousing...


I'm running NT05 tires - I wouldn't call them particularly rain or cold friendly.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The Tesla is going to beat you off the line anyway so for a street only car that will occasionally see wet &/or cool weather (you're in Washington for cryin' out loud) I recommend the 555G2.

Jeff

[phileas_fogg]

The Tesla is not only going to beat you off the line, it's going to beat you period. They're absolute beasts. Check out https://www.topgear.com/videos/top-gear-tv/tg-tv-ep2-s27-tesla-model-3-drag-race-vs-rivals

But the Tesla can't compete with the looks, sounds, and driving experience of your F5.


John

[steno]

What they said!

[SteveP]

Thank you for the input. It is exactly what I was looking for except for the one thing about my wife's car. Maybe you guys can suggest the top five excuses for not being able to race on a particular day? (Some that don't imply I'm chickening out). I'm happy the low mount will work, I'll get some Nitto's ordered, save some money on the clutch and apply it to the flywheel.

[mike223]

Maybe you guys can suggest the top five excuses for not being able to race on a particular day? (Some that don't imply I'm chickening out).



A- Take it to the drag strip - you're not going to pass tech (below 13.49) and the street is too dangerous and irresponsible.

B- Refuse to race anyone who is using traction control - make them learn to launch, not rely on a computer to save themselves from the hazards of a fast car (and traction control is not NHRA/IHRA legal either).





save some money on the clutch and apply it to the flywheel.



I can save you some money on the engine too - my 10.5:1 393w (500hp/550tq) is no faster to 100mph on street tires than it would be with 400hp/400tq - it's simply more dangerous and scary in 3rd gear (wheelspin).

The next engine I build will be a 9:1 351 - "plenty" for a street monster.


But I would not have known that for certain if I didn't try it....

[SteveP]

Great excuses. I'll use them. Too fast to pass tech. To late on the engine, pushrod lengths measured today and heads on soon. I know it's too much engine but I wanted an honest 427 badge. If I do another car project, I may swap engines and put this one somewhere i can use the power. In the mean time I'll have a 427 Cobra.

[cv2065]

I know it's too much engine but I wanted an honest 427 badge. If I do another car project, I may swap engines and put this one somewhere i can use the power. In the mean time I'll have a 427 Cobra.

My thoughts exactly...

[Bob Cowan]

My previous car had a 427W making well over 500hp (dyno proven), with a TKO 5 speed.

I used a Centerforce dual friction clutch for many years. Never had a problem, never slipped, and lasted for many miles. Pedal effort was fairly light.
When it wore out, I installed a Ram HD for track use. Worked well, BUT: pedal effort was certainly higher. And it would shudder when cold. I went back to the Centerforce.

My track car (lighter than a Cobra) has a Spec stage 2 clutch. I really like it. Light pedal effort (hydraulic), no shudder, hooks up solid. I wouldn't be afraid to put that in a Cobra.

I would not recommend an aluminum flywheel for a street car. They can sometimes be difficult to control at low speeds, requiring you to slip the clutch in traffic or parking lots.

As for tires, that can be a tough call. Lots of choices, and lots of opinions. Nitto makes a good tire, but I would avoid the NT05 - Not a good rain tire. The 555g2 is probably the best bang for the buck.

For the alternator, looks for brackets and pulleys to fit a '70 Mustang. That will tuck it down low out of the way. Plenty of room there.

My best advice is: Never buy cheap parts. They're too expensive.

[Avalanche325]

As far as the right clutch goes....is it a 450hp 427? Or is a a 650hp 427. HP matters, not really the engine size. Your engine builder should be able to help.
I am running a RAM clutch on a 500hp 347, including autocross and track and it has never slipped. There is sometimes a little chatter on pickup, but that is part of driving a race car on the street. Others that are common are Spec and King Cobra (seen a couple bad posts on the KC, but no personal experience).

Here is a good but simple explanation on clutch materials and typical uses.
https://www.phoenixfriction.com/t-clutch-materials-explained.aspx

Go steel on the flywheel and do a good steel bellhousing. Be safe for a few more dollars.

Pulleys - I used CFR. Very reasonable price, different colors / finishes including brushed, nice looking but not hotrod/blingy, and they fit. It is high mount on the alternator though.

Tires - I always harp on not putting hard tires on these cars. I am a fan of NT-05 (200TW). Even for street only. They are not designed for the rain and extreme cold of course. I have seen plenty of rain with mine and never had an issue. 555G2 I would say are "ok" for a cruiser, as long as you drive it like a cruiser. However, even if your engine is mild, it should make 450hp. You are putting in an engine that will make your car fast. You should put tires on that let it turn fast and stop fast (the tire do the stopping). You also want to have the capability of not having the back end come around when you hit it hard on an on-ramp. (Yes, you will.............YES, YOU WILL!)

[SteveP]

Great responses. Like i said, I appreciate input from people with real experience. Thank you.

[chargerbill]

I'm a fan of Mickey Thompson Street Comp. It's what I'm going to use (My kit should arrive Wednesday).
https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street-tires/street-comp

[Derald Rice]

Wait until the last minute before buying tires.

Tires will start aging from the instant that you buy them and if you are like a lot of people here, the build may last for a year or two, or.....

Find some donor tires and wheels to make the kit a roller while you are building.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I wanted an honest 427 badge....

Unlike Ford and Shelby! Trivia time---the "427" cars were actually 424.96 cubic inches and the ones that got the "428" truly displaced 426.54 (do the math ;)) So the originals weren't 427s anyway!

Cheers,
Jeff