Quick Release / Russ Thompson turn signal

[frd2]

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122248

Just installed a NRG quick release on my Russ Thompson equipped wheel. Couldn't be happier.

Minimal thickness added to the hub, and only involved re-drilling and tapping - no welding. Did have to remove the center of the quick release which means no horn button in the center of the wheel..........

SRK-400 was the hub part number. Credit to Peter Fritsche on one of the face book pages for the idea and part number.

Greg Hevron

[karlos]

Thanks for posting this. Looks like a great option for the RT turn signal users out there. Can you please provide more detail on what needed to be re-drilled and tapped? The steering wheel? The hub? Maybe both?

Gracias.


-Karl

[edwardb]

Also thanks from me for posting. I checked it out on NRG's website plus looked at a few related videos. Decided I'm going for it. Ordered one for my Coupe build. Should have it tomorrow and will post an update in my Coupe build thread. I regretted not doing a quick release wheel in my Coupe. But also didn't like the various solutions out there. Mainly because I don't weld plus have the RT turn signal piece. This looks very promising.

[David Williamson]

I think I need this as well, more details please. Getting into the the Coupe with the steering wheel in place is tight.
David W

[canuck1]

Thanks Greg!

I don't play on Facebook, so I appreciate you sharing the info here! Quick-release is something I've often thought about doing.

Sean

[frd2]

Couple places to redrill. The Russ Thompson hub is 2 pieces. The steering wheel bolts that mount the wheel also hold the 2 pieces of the hub together. So step one was drill and tap the 2 pieces of the hub to permanently hold them together. Just make sure those screws stay out of the way of the rest.

Then you must drill and tap the new correct bolt pattern into the hub to match the quick release. Likewise the same bolt pattern into the wheel (correctly clocked with pattern in the hub to keep wheel level when straight) assuming you stick w a f5 wheel.

The center button covers the new holes.

The middle of the quick release (provision for horn wiring) must be removed to not interfere. Look at the new one on nrg web site to see the difference.

I hired out the work to a local machinist. Was not sure how to center the release on the hub properly. He took a piece of essentially plastic pipe and turned it down to match the appropriate id for each piece to center them. Made it easy.

[frd2]

Here are photos of the machined pieces to make the job easy. I didn't have a way to center the release on the hub and the wheel to drill.

Once we had those made it was simply drill press work with the correct size drill / tap etc. Each black plastic piece is sized to hold the 2 halves together so that they are centered and you can then drill. Drilled one spot, tapped, inserted screw to perfectly hold for the next one, etc.
5mm x 0.8 is the size for the nrg hub

122432122431

Let me know if more photos help or any other questions.

Greg

[frd2]

Here is the release taken apart to show what was removed, etc

122442122441

Only drilled 5 of 6 into the hub as one was a little close to the existing screw.

Existing screw holes were simply counter sunk to accept the cap screws to hold the 2 halves together (permanently now)

should have removed the bottom of the piece attached to the wheel. Discovered it barely interferes with the hub. It was easier for the machinist to put the hub in the lathe and clearance it a tiny bit. Zoom in on the photo of the hub and notice the ledge now present in the top ID. Remove that much from the quick release part on the wheel instead.

Also -

use the smaller ID bolt pattern on the wheel half of the quick release. We used the outer / larger circle pattern. BARELY covered by the trim piece when you account for screw heads.

[edwardb]

Just finished installing this on my Coupe build. Detailed in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Last-Details-Gen-3-Oil-Pressure&p=399325&viewfull=1#post399325. I'm super pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for posting the idea!!! Final result:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122488&d=1581633945

[G-Pete]

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JCredit to Peter Fritsche on one of the face book pages for the idea and part number.

Greg Hevron

Thanks, that would be G-Pete here....

[Bowbrother]

Everybody use the SRK-400 or has somebody tried the SRK-400BK?

[JohnK]

The last two letters are just indicative of color. The BK is the black one.

[edwardb]

Everybody use the SRK-400 or has somebody tried the SRK-400BK?


The last two letters are just indicative of color. The BK is the black one.

Right. Nine difference colors available: http://www.getnrg.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=srk-400. The one I chose (in post #9 above and detailed in my build thread) is the "CF" carbon fiber version. I like it.

[Bowbrother]

The last two letters are just indicative of color. The BK is the black one. Thank you. Little brain dead : Just finished upgrades on the roadster I bought. new dash w/ gauges, heater, hydraboost, windshield wipers, RT turn signals, soft top and front and rear bumps. Going to order the SRK-400 as part of my next round starting next week including upgrading from 4 to 5 lug ( axles, drums, rotors and wheel). At that point think I'll stop and go drive the Blue Ridge Parkway.

[karlos]

I want to once again thank Greg (the OP) for posting this, and also for loaning out the plastic centering pieces shown in his original post (not strictly necessary but does make the installation easier). He generously sent them to me on his own dime and wouldn’t accept repayment with the agreement that I pay it forward by making them available to other builders. A local builder I know from work has expressed interest in using them next. He’ll either pass them on when done or if they come back to me, I’ll post another update to this thread. Thanks Greg!

Not much new to add here as the previous posters have covered the process well. I did however want to point out one observation that may help those that follow.

There’s a casting mark on the back side of the part that attaches to the steering wheel (red circle below). If that mark is oriented at the 12:00 position the new bolt holes that need to be placed in both the steering wheel and the RT hub will center themselves nicely between the existing holes. Makes for a cleaner install with no countersinks on top of one another.

This was a fun little project to while away another snowy weekend here in Denver…



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123041&d=1582480227



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123039&d=1582480034



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123040&d=1582480045

[JohnK]

I tried posting last night, but for some reason it doesn't look like it posted. I'd also like to thank Greg for posting this, and for loaning out the plastic tooling. I'd like to get in line to borrow them after anyone else that's already expressed interest. I'm happy to cover shipping. Thanks!

-John

[cgundermann]

I tried posting last night, but for some reason it doesn't look like it posted. I'd also like to thank Greg for posting this, and for loaning out the plastic tooling. I'd like to get in line to borrow them after anyone else that's already expressed interest. I'm happy to cover shipping. Thanks!

-John

I’d like to get in line after you John...also I’ll cover shipping...

Chris

[karlos]

Lots of interest in the plastic jig but unfortunately only one available. Since I have access to a 3D printer I can make another copy relatively quickly/easily. I'm in the process of getting that done now; parts should be available next week. In the meantime, I can make the CAD files available to anyone that can use them to print their own copy.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123319&d=1582895104

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123320&d=1582895128

[cgundermann]

Lots of interest in the plastic jig but unfortunately only one available. Since I have access to a 3D printer I can make another copy relatively quickly/easily. I'm in the process of getting that done now; parts should be available next week. In the meantime, I can make the CAD files available to anyone that can use them to print their own copy.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123319&d=1582895104

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123320&d=1582895128

Your the man Karlos!

Thanks, Chris

[Sigurd]

I would love a file. I have a 3D printer and the adapter is on the shelf! Can the file be sent via PM?

[frd2]

Dang this community rocks!

[fletch]

I'd like a copy of that CAD file too. Please, and thank you!

[David Hodgkins]

This is a pretty significant development. I can't tell you how many times I've heard the RT turn signal cant be used with a quick release hub over the years.

Way to go!

:)

[karlos]

Email is the only way I know of to share the CAD files. If someone knows of a way to accomplish file exchange directly through the forum please let me know. For now, please send your email address via PM and I'll drop the files in your inbox.

Thanks,

-Karl

[SSNK4US]

I talked to Russ about it back in December of 18 and he thought it was a promising idea. He said to send him an NRC unit and he could probably shorten his hub a little more which is what I was hoping, big guy in a little car lol. My life went to crap and I never got to send him one :( He could probably still do the same for any new hubs he does? I posted something about this back then. I’m glad someone picked up the ball and ran with it!! Another part I’m going to do is use Skidd’s self canceling deal. It’s pretty slick if you haven’t seen it yet!

Kurt

[EZ$]

Ok, so i have a question that i can't resolve. Just installed the NRG SRK400 unit wit a Russ Thompson turn signal. The problem I've run into is, the button that releases the collar to remove the steering wheel will not pop back out, and when I try to lock the steering wheel back in place, the button does not lock the collar, so the wheel is not secured. What am I missing?

[Sigurd]

Karl: Thank you for the file!

[edwardb]

Ok, so i have a question that i can't resolve. Just installed the NRG SRK400 unit wit a Russ Thompson turn signal. The problem I've run into is, the button that releases the collar to remove the steering wheel will not pop back out, and when I try to lock the steering wheel back in place, the button does not lock the collar, so the wheel is not secured. What am I missing?

Not 100% sure I understand. With the locking collar on the steering column rotated all the way around to the "Open" position, the button stays down. Make sure it's all the way rotated to that position before placing the steering wheel adapter into position. Once properly indexed, the locking collar should rotate to the "Closed" position (with some slight amount of drag which is normal) and when all the way there, the button should pop out. That's the only time you'll see the button out. The only other comment is the instructions to talk about adjusting the button if necessary, but recommends against it. I didn't have to touch mine.

Edit: Hopefully my post isn't an insult or stating the obvious. Certainly isn't meant to be. Just wasn't clear from your description exactly what was happening and maybe it was something simple. That kind of thing has certainly happened to me.

[JohnK]

Ok, so i have a question that i can't resolve. Just installed the NRG SRK400 unit wit a Russ Thompson turn signal. The problem I've run into is, the button that releases the collar to remove the steering wheel will not pop back out, and when I try to lock the steering wheel back in place, the button does not lock the collar, so the wheel is not secured. What am I missing?

Rick, did you take the hub apart to modify the inner cast aluminum piece? If so, make sure you put the little brass button and spring in correctly and they operate smoothly. If the spring is missing or the button is stuck somehow, that could prevent the outer silver button from popping out when the hub is rotated to the locked position.

-John

[karlos]

Surprising amount of interest in the CAD files! The 3D printing process must be more mainstream than I first thought. Would like to hear from anybody that manages to get the parts printed and test fit. I don't have my parts yet so curious as to how well they fit.

The original parts were turned on a lathe. The CAD dimensions came from those parts. Depending on the accuracy of the 3D printed parts some minor sanding may be necessary, as I don’t expect the tolerances achievable with a typical 3D printer to be as good as a lathe-turned part. I deliberately dimensioned the parts on the high side so the fit would be tight. Not much point in using a jig like this if the fit is loose and sloppy. And as the saying goes, it's easier to remove material than it is to add it...

-Karl

[EZ$]

Paul, no worries. I found when the unit was not installed yet that in order for the spring loaded button, inside the hub, to lock in place when closing the hub, I had to turn the unit upside down to get the outer button to extend out and then when turned the inner button would snap in place and lock the unit. If the outer button is depressed, turning the unit to the lock position will not pop the outer button out.
John, didn't take the unit apart. Managed to remove what was needed using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel.

Can't for the life of me figure out why that outer button won't lock. It's almost like the outer button catches on the edge of the spring loaded inner button which won't allow it to slide over the top of it.

[EZ$]

So I continued to think about this issue, and i decided that it may just be that the button needed some lubrication to get it to allow the spring loaded button to slide under it to pop it back out. And as they say, "even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile ". Go figure it worked. Was the first time I was able to lock the wheel without screwing around with the locking unit. On to my next disaster!

[karlos]

Parts came back from the printer today. Dimensions match the CAD to within 0.010 or so. These should fit/work well with little or no modification.

I have two sets available to anyone that can use them. PM your mailing address and they're yours for free. The only catch is that you do the same for the next builder down the line. Thanks.


-Karl



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123867&d=1583807809

[Vspeeds]

Karlos
PM sent. Thanks

[JohnK]

Karlos - thanks so much for making the spacers. I wanted to take my name off the list. I managed to make the required mods without the spacers. Thanks again to everyone that's contributed to this mod. I'm really stoked with how it's turned out.

-John

[Just puttering]

You might try posting the cad file to your photo album

[WBILB]

Karlos USPS just arrived, thanks a million, I really appreciate the kind gesture!
Best
Bill

[WBILB]

Just found the SRK 400 CF on Amazon for $109 with Free shipping! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027V2VJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

[Capt. Paul]

Beautiful looking stitching on your interior including dashboard....looks comfy

[Sdonnel]

My hub will be here tomorrow and the 3D files will be printed by this Friday. A friend who is a machinist, is drooling for something to do. I'm hoping my install goes as well as everyone else's. Got it for $109 as well on Amazon.

Scott

[Vspeeds]

Karl
I just received the printed parts. Thank you. Now as soon as this virus craziness subsides, I could work on the cobra.

[Shady302]

When someone is done with their spacers, that they received from someone else, can you please let me know.
I am interested in borrowing a set for my own wheel asap.

Thank you all.

[WBILB]

Shady,
PM me your address if you still need the jigs as I just finished my install. Thanks again to Karlos for the original loan.
Best
Bill

[Shady302]

Thank you Bill. PM sent a little bit ago.very much appreciated.


Shady,
PM me your address if you still need the jigs as I just finished my install. Thanks again to Karlos for the original loan.
Best
Bill

[Vspeeds]

Thank you frd2 for this thread. Thank you Edward for your additional photos of your install. And thank you Karlos for the tip on the markings and for the 3d printed spacers. Here are some photos of my installation:

I used a band saw to remove the back portion of the hub. Then I used a belt sander to smooth out the cut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125174&d=1585462563

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125176&d=1585462582

After cutting the hub I realized the part of the hub that attaches to the steering wheel was too long also. So I used the belt sander to shave off some material.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125177&d=1585462593

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125179&d=1585462615

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125180&d=1585462641

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125182&d=1585462656

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125184&d=1585462673

[Vspeeds]

Thank you Karl for the 3d printed spacer jigs.

IF ANYBODY CAN USE THESE 3D PRINTED SPACERS, SEND ME A MESSAGE

I'll send them to you and when you're done, pay it forward.

[GWL]

Thank you Karl for the 3d printed spacer jigs.

IF ANYBODY CAN USE THESE 3D PRINTED SPACERS, SEND ME A MESSAGE

I'll send them to you and when you're done, pay it forward.

PM sent, Thanks, George

[Vspeeds]

Got your PM George
I'm out of town but will send them out either Tuesday evening 3/31/20 or Wednesday 4/1/20 for sure. Let me know if you have any questions.

[cgundermann]

I’ve 3D printed up another set of jigs. If anyone needs to use - PM me.

Chris

[GWL]

Paul or anyone who knows,
I'm in the middle of working on the NGR Quick Release Steering Wheel adapter to the Russ Thompson turn signal hub. I am ready to drill the steering wheel and RT hub. I have modified each NGR piece for fitting together and have the 3D printed alignment pieces. One of those 3D pieces I had to adapt to fit.

I'm a bit confused about the steering wheel alignment.

Lead up to my question: I see that there are two pictures of the steering wheels, that two of you have done (FFR forum), are clocked/referenced the same way. Here is a shot of Pauls wheel and a red line showing the alignment. Some of the screws overlap the other original countersunk holes. The second picture is clocked/referenced the same way.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49754013978_d3240de51c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNAjXd)IMG_1828_LI (https://flic.kr/p/2iNAjXd) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr

This posted picture of the steering wheel is similar to Paul's.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49754014053_4a7b3cb233_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNAjYv)IMG_0172_LI (https://flic.kr/p/2iNAjYv) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr

While another was more evenly spaced/lined up as seen here with no overlapping of the countersunk holes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49754795893_9069553206_w.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEkov)qr_2fff (3)_LI (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEkov) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr

Questions: Why was the top mounting bolt from the NGR steering wheel mounting not aligned to the top center of the steering wheel? Paul's and another is slightly offset while one is almost centered so no new holes overlap the older countersunk holes.

In the end, did your steering wheel come out with the same alignment when driving? How much adjustment is there, in the steering system, to get the steering wheel to align with the tracking of the car so the wheel stays square/level? If there is plenty of adjustment then it probably will not matter where I drill the holes.

Thanks to anyone for your time, George

[edwardb]

I haven't spent a lot of time looking at how others aligned, to be honest. I wanted the NRG logo centered on the top when closed, which put the button on the right and the finger/thumb detent on the left which felt natural for operating the thing. With the assembly in that orientation, the hub centered with the "T" Russ puts in there at the top, and the steering wheel centered, determined the location where I could put the holes in the steering wheel and adapter that didn't interfere with the ones already there. Only had to clock the quick disconnect slightly. That was as scientific as I got. My steering wheel was exactly centered and my car aligned before I installed, and nothing changed. Everything was still centered when I was done. I didn't use the alignment pieces. They were offered but I didn't find it that difficult to align without them. Just had to be careful and check repeatedly as I was doing the work. Hope that answers your question.

[GWL]

I haven't spent a lot of time looking at how others aligned, to be honest. I wanted the NRG logo centered on the top when closed, which put the button on the right and the finger/thumb detent on the left which felt natural for operating the thing. With the assembly in that orientation, the hub centered with the "T" Russ puts in there at the top, and the steering wheel centered, determined the location where I could put the holes in the steering wheel and adapter that didn't interfere with the ones already there. Only had to clock the quick disconnect slightly. That was as scientific as I got. My steering wheel was exactly centered and my car aligned before I installed, and nothing changed. Everything was still centered when I was done. I didn't use the alignment pieces. They were offered but I didn't find it that difficult to align without them. Just had to be careful and check repeatedly as I was doing the work. Hope that answers your question.

I don't care where the NGR is clocked, I want to make sure the steering is clocked level. If level is the right word, just want the steering wheel to be straight up and not clocked off.

George

[karlos]

George,

The answer is shown in post #15. Orient the dimple on the part that attaches to the steering wheel in the 12:00 position and everything will be right with the world. Bolt holes will be equally spaced, steering wheel will be straight, NRG logo will be on top.


-Karl


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125996&d=1586491690

[Sigurd]

Can anyone give me the inner diameter of the hub?

126001

[edwardb]

I don't care where the NGR is clocked, I want to make sure the steering is clocked level. If level is the right word, just want the steering wheel to be straight up and not clocked off.

George

Right. I was installing this on a completed build with the alignment basically done and steering wheel centered. That didn't change with the installation as I was careful that the steering wheel ended up back in exactly the same place. That's what I tried to explain. With the NRG logo (and open and closed arrows) at the top and working around the existing holes in the steering wheel and adapter. Maybe it wasn't clear.

[frd2]

I don't care where the NGR is clocked, I want to make sure the steering is clocked level. If level is the right word, just want the steering wheel to be straight up and not clocked off.

George

Think of it this way -

How you line up the holes from the steering wheel to the release only impacts how the release is clocked - where is the button and where is the logo?

Subsequently how you line up the release to the hub determines how the wheel itself is clocked.

where you clock the release does not matter other than the placement of the button / logo - clocking it the same way to both the wheel and the hub matters.

HTH
Greg

[karlos]

Can anyone give me the inner diameter of the hub?

126001



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126009&d=1586527122

[Sigurd]

Karlos, thank you

[Russ Thompson]

Hi Guys, Todd just let me know about this nice setup, I'm going to get one and play with it to see what I can do to maybe offer up this in the future.

Sorry I'm not on the forum as much as I used to be. I spend all day in the shop and my evenings are just not as free as they used to be so thanks Todd for letting me know.

[Shady302]

hey guys, not sure if anyone needs the centering tool to add this hub to there car?
I'm finished with the one I was given, and it worked great!
anyone needs it, PM me. just pay shipping. thanks.
pm me thanks.

[jiriza84641]

This is so great, im thinking of doing this now, just need to do more reading. the QR is available on amazon for 97.00. looks like a steal. Well, just ordered it. Now to follow the directions closely. Might need the centering spacers.

Thanks all

[jiriza84641]

OH! who would have the centering bushings available? Thanks in advance!

[cgundermann]

I can either send you the 3D file or the printed two piece jig.

PM me.

Chris

[Shady302]

hey, I received your pm. I'm gonna respond in a few minutes. I will send it out to you. thanks.

[jiriza84641]

Thanks. I responded to shady. I Don’t have a 3D printer.

[Joe Dirt]

Vspeeds, thanks again for posting those cut pics! I was trying to picture what exactly was being done. Does anybody have pics of what needs OR what can be be trimmed off the Russ Thompson piece? Thanks.

[JohnK]

Nothing needs to be trimmed off the hub that Russ modifies for you. The only additional modification to that hub is to drill and tap if for the new hole pattern as VSpeeds shows in post #45 above. That said, Russ himself posted in this thread a bit ago, so he's aware that several of us have done this mod. If you haven't already ordered your RT turn signal system, you may be able to talk to Russ and see what he can do for you.

[Otee453]

I just did this mod. For anyone wondering and using a mill with a DRO, the bolt pattern for the locking ring is 6 x 70mm, even spacing (60°). There are two bolt patterns for the piece to the steering wheel, 6 x 70mm and 6 x 74mm, either of which might be able to be used but the smaller is best in my opinion.

[Jones375]

Does anyone still have a centering jig they are willing to send out?

[BBOMAR]

Interested in borrowing the jigs. Could someone let me know if they have an extra set? Thanks

[BBOMAR]

Found an adapter by NRG so you don't have to cut off the back of the quick release. The part number is SRK-500BK.

151267

[Shady302]

Well this is very interesting.
So with the adapter, do you still have to drill out new holes on the ffr hub? Or does the new adapter have a pattern that fits the unique factory five bolt pattern now?
Thanks



Found an adapter by NRG so you don't have to cut off the back of the quick release. The part number is SRK-500BK.

151267

[mdutton11]

I just ordered my quick release - does anyone have the spacers / jigs they are willing to pay forward?

Has anyone tried the adapter BBOMAR found in the above post?

[Jkviper]

Hey guys, I just bought the SRK-400BK and for some reason it is incredibly stiff to secure and release. Definitely need two hands on the base to rotate it. Is anyone else having similar issues? I am returning this unit and wondering if I should give it another try if others have not had the same issue.

Thanks for your responses.

[edwardb]

Hey guys, I just bought the SRK-400BK and for some reason it is incredibly stiff to secure and release. Definitely need two hands on the base to rotate it. Is anyone else having similar issues? I am returning this unit and wondering if I should give it another try if others have not had the same issue.

Thanks for your responses.

FWIW, mine is not like that at all. Only takes one hand on the button and an easy turn with it depressed to remove. Same thing when putting the wheel back on. With the wheel positioned properly in the keyed location (important obviously) the ring turns and clicks in place with one hand. There is an adjustment on the piece although the instructions encourage you to leave it alone. I have. Maybe that would help? Although not even sure it affects what you're experiencing. Or return and try again. Haven't heard about any problems from others either.

[Jkviper]

FWIW, mine is not like that at all. Only takes one hand on the button and an easy turn with it depressed to remove. Same thing when putting the wheel back on. With the wheel positioned properly in the keyed location (important obviously) the ring turns and clicks in place with one hand. There is an adjustment on the piece although the instructions encourage you to leave it alone. I have. Maybe that would help? Although not even sure it affects what you're experiencing. Or return and try again. Haven't heard about any problems from others either.

Thanks Paul, good to hear. I really like the compact size of it. After staring at the unit for a while and being the tinkerer that I am I figured out the rubber pegs were creating too much pressure on the steering wheel plate and the closing mechanism was just too tight. I used a mini mill and took off just the smallest amount possible where the steering wheel plate touches the rubber pegs and that did the trick. Here is a pick which shows the modification. Now it works nice and smooth and still zero play…

152017

[Dust Devil]

Hi, eveyrone. Anyone have a set of the spacers or the CAD/STL file so I could print my own.

What about this adapter ( SRK-500BK ) can anyone confirm works without having the cut the NRG hub?

[Brian76]

Glad I found this thread! Lots of great info. I don't have a Russ Thompson turn signal, can I still do the mod?

[Shady302]

Glad I found this thread! Lots of great info. I don't have a Russ Thompson turn signal, can I still do the mod?

Yes sir, you can definitely use it without the russ Thompson turn signal.
I did exactly that.
I already purchased a different turn signal unit and wired it all up a while ago, before this quick release existed, because I knew I was going to do a quick release, but no other styles would work well with his turn signal so hence why I did a different signal box system instead.

If I didn't already have the other system all wired up and connected to my harness I would have purchased the russ Thompson signal AND use this quick release.

[Brian76]

Yes sir, you can definitely use it without the russ Thompson turn signal.
I did exactly that.
I already purchased a different turn signal unit and wired it all up a while ago, before this quick release existed, because I knew I was going to do a quick release, but no other styles would work well with his turn signal so hence why I did a different signal box system instead.

If I didn't already have the other system all wired up and connected to my harness I would have purchased the russ Thompson signal AND use this quick release.

Were the modifications you made similar to what has been described on this thread for guys using the RT signal?

[mdutton11]

Ditto - just found I have access to a 3D printer through a friend. Can anyone supply the files for spacers with the RT turn signal so I can make few sets and pay forward or if you are done with yours send to me and I will keep the train going.... PM me for email address. Cheers!

[Misterfubar]

Ditto - just found I have access to a 3D printer through a friend. Can anyone supply the files for spacers with the RT turn signal so I can make few sets and pay forward or if you are done with yours send to me and I will keep the train going.... PM me for email address. Cheers!

Same. I'd love to print my own set if someone can pass along the files. I can even ship a set or two out if anyone needs them.

[BrewCityCobra]

Same. I'd love to print my own set if someone can pass along the files. I can even ship a set or two out if anyone needs them.

Make that three of us!

[mdutton11]

Karl- -I thought I had replied to this post but apparently I did not hit send. Can you send me the CAD file? I am wil PM my email. Cheers and thanks!

[Jammer369]

I would like the files as well. Thanks in advance!

[Ted G]

Ok, ironically I just ordered mine and I guess I need to read the 3 pages of this thread to figure out what the 3D printed device does. Hmmm. I mean unless someone wants to give me a cliff notes version......


Ted

[cgundermann]

It just helps keep both the hub/Russ' assembly and the quick release unit centered as you re-drill the bolt pattern (different from the Lola FFR steering wheel bolt pattern). It can be done without the jigs...

I just sent some printed ones to a Forum member yesterday.

Chris

[frd2]

it helps to center the steering wheel with the quick release, and the quick release with the hub that Russ Thompson modifies for his turn signal.

If you don't center them and instead drill them way off center, then the wheel would "wobble" as you rotate it.

[Ted G]

I get it.... Might look into this as well.

Thanks for the cliff notes.


Ted

[dbo_texas]

Found an adapter by NRG so you don't have to cut off the back of the quick release. The part number is SRK-500BK.

151267

For anyone wondering, if you use the spacer part from NRG (SRK-500BK), it works fine, but the only issue is that if you don't trim off that section from the part that mounts to the hub as many have done, you are basically adding an extra 3/8 inch (or whatever the thickness of that spacer is) to the depth of the steering column. This is not a problem for some folks, but if you want to maximize space in the cockpit and push the wheel toward the dash as much as you can, you will still need to cut the piece off the quick release. I was a little confused until I got the parts. But if you don't need the extra space and don't feel like cutting anything off, this stock spacer is a great option.

[Kobra Kermit]

NRG quick release.
I hope someone here will be able to help me. I am a disabled Vet and have a fused knee on my left leg. I should have found a local roadster to see if I could get in or out. With the FFR wheel in place, I can get in, but when it comes to getting out it takes several minutes of trying to find the way out.
I have the NRG SRK400CF and need the plastic device you all have used to help ensure concentric alignment while drilling the needed hole pattern.

I realize the events in the thread happened back in 2020, but I'm in a corner trying to find a way out.

Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated and I am ready to pay for your time and material.

Cheers - Kobra Kermit

Kermit Pethtel
Major USAF
Retired

[cgundermann]

Just PMed you.

Chris

[CaptB]

NRG quick release.
I hope someone here will be able to help me. I am a disabled Vet and have a fused knee on my left leg.

Thank you for your service, I also am the same type vet U.S. Navy retired.

Capt. B

[Kobra Kermit]

Just PMed you.

Chris

Thanks Chris. Problem solved. Fixture will be going back tocgunderman after the drill press and tap work.
This forum rocks.
Thanks to all who PM'd me.

[rhk118]

Hey Guys, I'm starting on this NRG project today and wondering is anyone has a set of Jigs I can pay to have shipped to me or the 3D file so I can get a set printed up? Thanks so much.

EDIT: Thanks to cgundermann for sending me some jigs, they worked great. What wasn't clear to me from this thread that maybe will clear things up for others is the boss coming back from Russ Thompson is 2 parts held together by large philips head screws. These need to be countersunk flush to hold the 2 parts of the boss together. I had to trim the philips head screws back like others 3-4 mm so they didn't stick out the back after countersinking. You can see one of these out of my boss and one half way out.

Then you need to drill the holes to mount the NRG to the boss once it is together. These should be staggered between the large philips heads, and make sure you line up the top of the NRG from the etched "T" on top of the boss (you can see it in the picture). I drilled the new holes on my drill press with a 4.5 mm bit, tapped with M5x0.8. Not sure what number the drill bit I used was, came out of a pile and was 4.5 mm wide, just check it on a micrometer. I saw 4.3 mm recommended for drill bit size, 4.5 mm was as close as I had and it worked just fine. The hex bolts that are pictures come with the NRG and are M5x0.8. Make sure these are lined up well as there is very little play with the hex screws coming out of the NRG. I used a transfer punch to mark.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170379&d=1659306592

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170383&d=1659306630

These are the screws from McMaster that are the proper length for the NRG portion that goes on the steering wheel. Someone else pointed out the NRG piece is registered for "top". One note about McMaster I learned the $11 way by having to order longer screws....they measure their screws including the head, not just thread length. So an 8 mm screw only has about 5 mm of thread. So these are the screws I used and are proper length (I also used blue loctite on everything once I knew it all went together).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170376&d=1659306592

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170377&d=1659306592

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170378&d=1659306592

Hope this helps someone, you've all helped me a bunch. And thanks so much Chris!

[csmith]

Could I get a copy of the cad files to print off the jig? Alternatively, I could pay for shipping for someone’s that’s done with it and then pay it forward for the next guy. Thanks in advanced!

[magicmarto]

HI Greg, I am in the process on installing this quick steering release to my MKIV with the Russ Thompson turn signal. Would you ship me that plastic adaptor? I'd pay you for shipping of course. Please let me know. Thanks. Martin

[wedel456]

HI Greg, I am in the process on installing this quick steering release to my MKIV with the Russ Thompson turn signal. Would you ship me that plastic adaptor? I'd pay you for shipping of course. Please let me know. Thanks. Martin

I would be interested in getting next or from someone else if they have them. Thanks!