Eastwood flaring tool Need help!

[Caddy Dad]

I started running the brake lines for my Mk IV so I decided to practice flaring my brake lines with the vise mount Eastwood flaring tool. I'm using the 3/16 brake lines that come with the kit. My process is to use a tubing cutter to cut the tube, then debur inside and outside of the tube. I, then mount it in the tool with a little bit of lube and the proper die and then perform operation 0. I then crank down on the clamp and perform Operation 1. However, when I do Operation 1, the tube get pushed out the back of the die. I'm using light pressure on the handle too. No matter how hard I crank down the the clamp (I mean really hard!) the tube still gets pushed out the back on Operation 1. If I continue on to Operation 2 the flare is buggered up.

I've read the directions 3x, watched the instructional video a few more times and still can't get the tube to stay in place for Operation 1.

Has anybody else seen this problem? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[edwardb]

I haven't experienced that. In fact, usually leaves a bit of a mark on the tube where it grabs. Don't want to insult, but are you positive you're using the right die set, and they're the matched pair? I've practiced some on mine with the kit supplied tubing and it worked great. I've used rigid SS on my kit builds, which it grabs really well also, so don't have a ton of experience with the kit material. But what I have done was fine.

Another thought is maybe the tubing is the wrong size or undersized? If you have a micrometer, measure the OD of what you're trying to flare. I can measure some that I have on hand here and compare.

[sread]

I'm running brake lines right now and noticed the lines which come in the kit have the pvc coating - maybe it is the coating which is too slippery to allow the clamp to hold the tube in place.

[michael everson]

I have used that same tool on literally hundreds of flares and it has never slipped. are you putting the blocks in the tool the correct way? They need to be on top of each other not side by side. Only thing I could think of that would allow the line to slide.
Mike

[edwardb]

Dug out my Eastwood tool and a piece of FFR supplied brake line. Made a perfect flare and left slight marks in the finish on the brake line. So obviously got a good grip. Measured the brake line OD and found it's out of round. Measures min of .1835" to max of .1930". Not a lot, but maybe yours is out of round enough and oriented to where it makes a difference. Just a wild guess. But seems like it should work from my side. Pictures I just took:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/3/IMG_1825.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/0553cfd1-6e38-4fc4-8904-aebb6579707d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/3/IMG_1826.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/0bf4abe8-c91b-401d-bda3-3140ba422268)

[NAZ]

Measure your tubing to ensure it's not undersized. 3/16" std tubing should measure .1875" OD. If the tubing is the correct size for the die then the die has been manufactured larger than it should have been. If that's the case, Eastwood should replace the die.

[Caddy Dad]

Thanks for all the suggestions. After a good nights rest I re-grouped and looked at this again. I went out and bought a new length of NAPA brake line and a Ni-Cop brake line. The NAPA brake line measured 0.19" OD. the Ni-Cop a bit less at 0.1875" I double and triple checked the die is the correct size and placed properly in the tool. I then started cutting the tubing with my cutter and realized that as I rotated the cutter around the tube, it also nicked up the polymer sheathing. I was using a small pipe cutter. Doh! At first I thought it was no big deal, but turns out I think it was enough to remove the sheathing resulting in an undersized the tube. So I went back out and picked up a proper tubing cutter and tried again. This time it cut a nice mar free cut. As I've been told, the proper tool for the proper job! I then used the flaring tool and got a nice flare like EdwardB above. It takes a little practice, but I also realized I was using no where near enough pressure on the flaring tool as needed. I really had to push the handle all the way until it stops. Anyway, fingers crossed as I head into bending, cutting and flaring the rest of my brake lines.

How does this look?
122175


Lesson learned: After a long day in the garage and I get tired, it's a good idea to step back, regroup and look at issues again after a good nights rest.

Thanks again and I'll keep you posted on progress.

[edwardb]

Need to clear the flakes of coating out of that flare, but other than that looks good. Glad you got it worked out. One other observation. For the standard steel lines and copper-nickel (aka Cunifer) that's popular right now, a rolling tubing cutter is probably OK. But some discussion by some pros that a tubing cutter work hardens the metal. Especially not recommend to use a tubing cutter on SS lines. Specifically cited by InLine Tube where I get my SS tubing. For my lines, I cut with either a cut-off wheel on a Dremel or the fine metal blade on my Milwaukee portable band saw. Then touch them with a file or lightly on a bench disk sander. Then deburr and complete the flare. A touch of lube on the flaring dies isn't a bad idea either.


Lesson learned: After a long day in the garage and I get tired, it's a good idea to step back, regroup and look at issues again after a good nights rest.

Amen to that. Couldn't agree more. Can't count the times I didn't and wished I had. :(