NUHale's MKIV 7275 Build Thread - FFR Premium Top Review

[nuhale]

I've been trolling this site for years wondering when I would pull the trigger and make the commitment to build my dream car. Going back to June 2019 one late Saturday night while window shopping under the influence I made the leap and purchased my MKIV on eBay. Was at a rolling chassis stage and the previous owner went with most of the upgrades so jumped on it. Been planning on keeping a build thread but been falling way behind. I'm a little over 6 months into my build and first want to thank many of you for your feedback, your build threads and overall support when in those 10 steps backward moments. Over the next few days I'll get this thread up to date on the 100+ hours I already have in it and will update going forward.

Here's some pics to start from the delivery of my #7275 2010 MKIV
Original Specs:

MKIV complete Kit
Poweder Coated Chassis
FFR Electric Gauges
Setup was originally for BBF427
Leather Seats
IRS (old pre-2015)
IRS Read with 8.8 (Ford M-4010-A88) 3.27 Gears Lincoln MK8 Sliip Traction lock diff
Mustang Brakes
17" Halibrand Replica Wheels
Heater/Defroster
Roll Bars (sold)
Toyo 888 tires

122041
122042

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152988&d=1630700788

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well how about that...#7275...I built #7276 for a customer! A very early Mk4 (with the short lived larger trunk configuration) delivered at the end of June 2010.

Looking forward to following your build!

Jeff

[nuhale]

July 2019

Built a low profile buck based on some prints found on FFR forums. Have limited space in the garage with all my incoming parts so decided to put body to the ceiling. Found some inexpensive pulley systems on amazon that can hold up to 300lbs (more than enough) so I can move body up and down easily and without calling in a buddy favor. Took the constant weight off them using some tie down ratcheting straps for long term.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122064&d=1581017156

[nuhale]

July 2019

Spent a good amount of time going through all the paperwork, boxes, and parts previous owner had procured. It was amazing to see how much planning went into this person's build and for him to hang it up only after a few months seemed odd. Their loss my gain I suppose... I had my build plan roughed prior to this purchase so I started to overlay everything that was in place and all the things that would need to change going from at 427 build to a coyote. Many of hours spent on this site understanding all that would be needed.

This poor car sat in a warehouse in Rochester NY for close to 9 years untouched. Most the aluminum was complete, all the drive and brakes installed, and that's about it.. Basic rolling chassis. It was stored properly and was happy to only find a few issues including rotted out control arm and tie rod boots. All switched out to energy suspension parts (PN 13009 UCA & 13024LCA). What a pain getting the ball joints loose. Also found that the KONI shocks I had were the date codes recalled back in 2011. Wrong lottery to win but after a few calls with KONI and FFR I was floored when they offered to send me all new shocks after so many years. AWESOME SERVICE!!

Started with a few quick changes that was on my build plan including switching out to a powered rack. Purchased on rock auto N101-0106 BBB/Vision PS rack. First interaction with Mark at Breeze (many more to come) with his power steering bump steer and adjuster kit. I did have to hone out the ID on one side of the rack. Also grinding into my new baby's frame to allow for clearance of the bellow was a painful process. As writing this months later I realize how easy it is now vs when you first get the kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122111&d=1581040959

[nuhale]

July 10, 2019

First order of business... ENGINE. After insane amounts of research and conversation I decided on GEN 2 Coyote with Mike Forte. As noted countless times on this site Mike has been great to work with. Went Gen 2 with a TKO600 as thought Gen 3 still too new and too many unknowns. Plus I plain out like the look of the engine better without that alien head cover. Not worth the extra 25HP.. Added all the Forte bells and whistles including hydraulic clutch, hydraulics, hydro boost etc.

Received Engine on September 9th. Like Christmas morning...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122107&d=1581040596
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[nuhale]

September 2019

My 2010 kit came with the old cast Wilwood brake pedal box. After much research I decided to change out with the forged new style based on enough feedback that the cast were prone to breaking. Forte had modified some of the component so accept his Hydroboost. As noted by many Mike doesn't provide installation instruction so it leaves much to the imagination and digging for others experience. As this was some time ago I recall the whole setup coming in and out at least 6 times due to forgetting something or making a change.

Overall the Hydroboost went in ok... not the prettiest thing but solid. Took some tinkering to get it set correctly and once I thought I had it done... realized the lower canister was in the way of the steering shaft. Had to remove it... again and Mike lent me his special made tool to remove the retainer nut to "clock" the part so its free of any interference. I had to mill out the retaining feature in the aluminum mount so hopeful this thing doesn't come loose in the future. Doubtful as it seems pretty locked down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122102&d=1581040023

Moved on to the Pedal box and fabricated an aluminum accelerator pedal on one of my HAAS mills (benefit of managing a tool shop). Came out pretty sharp I think. Had to make some adjustments to get my foot placement right. I'm a pretty big guy 6'-3" 260lbs so need to make sure I'm gonna fit and be able to drive a comfortable as possible. Ordered the fly-by wire mount from FFR that needed a little work to fit but got it all in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122104&d=1581040313
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[Straversi]

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome. Looks like you are well on your way. Thanks for sharing your build.
-Steve

[nuhale]

September 2019

Started the process of the braking system back in Sept 19. Have the stock Mustang brakes F&R that came with FFR kit. I was contemplating upgrading to Wilwood kit but decided to just go with a Forte's hydroboost setup with already installed brakes by previous owner. Next came the countless hours of research on what materials and tools best used. I had my heart set on stainless but after some tinkering in the garage and good reviews I decided on Nicopp. I spend too much time on the details and as crazy as it sounds really like the look of copper against the black powder coat. Picked up an Eastwood flaring tool and a tube straightener off EBay. AMAZON SHOPPERS BEWARE! -> The Nicopp that is found and recommended by Amazon is CRAP!!! It was crimping in my flaring tool and spun me around for hours thinking something was wrong with the tool. I finally had a "Doh!" moment and realized it was the material. I bought another "made in the USA" from the stop shop and it flared perfect. I bought some suspension ceiling wire in a coil too & used straightener to make bendable lengths to rough in my lines. This made process manageable and did all the runs as continuous with no unions. Only have the "T" for the front and rear split. All in all the process took some learning but Nicopp was great to work with and all in all turned out great. Fast forward to Feb 2020 this past weekend where my inexperience in fittings came out as I used a 45 inverted flare to fit to the 3AN banjo nuts provided by Forte's Hydroboost. Spoke with Mike and said should be fine but I decided to do it right. Bought the 37deg wheel from Eastwood and corrected. I pulled the lines off and cut the very end off with cutting wheel. Cleaned up the end and flared to single 37deg flare. This took roughly 1/4" off the length which made my "perfect" parallel lines look off to get around the 3/4" frame. Something that I'll only notice but my perfect lines slightly off.

Had to re-flare the lines meeting the 3AN banjo nuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122327&d=1581371879

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[Railroad]

Nice work on your brakes. I noticed your car has the early front upper control arm bushings. I recently read that these need to be inspected for proper lube application. Those without issue seem to do the job, but lack of, or insufficient distribution of grease can cause issues. Not trying to alarm you, but failure of this part, could be very serious.

[nuhale]

Thanks for the heads up Railroad. I wasn't aware there was issue with this part. I'll give FFR a call and see what they recommend. I did a quick search and it looks like others just replace the whole UCA.

[nuhale]

For documentation purposes: Just spoke with FFR tech. He explained that there was an issue with UCA design from MKII generation. There can be issues if the control arms are not serviced and greased regularly and also explained that if the control arm mounts to frame aren't loosened during alignment they can bind up or cause stress fractures that can lead to failure. Net net these are fine but need to be regularly serviced with grease and loose when aligned.

[Greg K]

Just how loose??? Loose bracket would impact alignment when tightened back up.
I'm sure driving and road conditions will put more stress on them than any alignment would.

[edwardb]

Just how loose??? Loose bracket would impact alignment when tightened back up.
I'm sure driving and road conditions will put more stress on them than any alignment would.

Just backed off slightly to where the UCA arm can move on the connection as the adjusters are moved. Not floppy loose. Then snug back up when the alignment is done.

[nuhale]

Showing this as complete but this was a go back and do again. When I bought the engine from Mike Forte he supplies a GM filter/regulator along with some quick connect nylon lines. I had decided to use all of this and had in place but after some time I didn't want my fuel line in the tunnel. It's more preference as I know many have done this successful and without issue. Decided to use the GM regulator with in-tank fuel pump in place of a more traditional setup in the engine bay as I didn't have to run a return line and feel it will give some more space. Used a little of every type on this one. I used the nylon quicks from the tank to the regulator, a 6an braided PFTE from the regulator to the hard line, 3/8 Nicopp hard line down the rear end and down the outside of the 4" frame rail, and back up into the engine bay. I finished the hard-line with a 6AN fitting so I can attach to fuel rail with more braided PFTE line once engine is in. Was able to find the 3/8 FIF to 6AN fitting on summit to eliminate pressure fitting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122588&d=1581814821

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[nuhale]

Just a fast forward post as I haven't caught up with where my build is but didn't want to forget this one....

Filled the Diff with 80w90 after too much reading on my 8.8 M-4010-A88 3.27 "Lincoln Mk8" LST. Took around 1.8L with 4oz friction modifier from Ford.

I'm sure many like me of the modifier.. WARNING: This stuff stinks. My garage smells awful and really pissed the wife off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU5LP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[nuhale]

Trying to keep up with documenting my progress but really falling behind. Feel like I'm in the zone and had a "moment of clairity" seeing how this can all come together soon. A couple updates...

Mounted radiator using Breeze mount kit (top & bottom). Went together pretty well. Had previouly made some mounts for my Moroso expasion tank but with the piano hinge I will need to rethink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125379&d=1585699314

Installed Heater & Wiper motor. The heater was a pain as the "template" was not quite centered on the copper in/out and had to do some careful hand bending to make it fit. Crossing fingers that I didn't create a pinhole in one of the joints. Will be a pain later so :confused:. Took a page out of EdwardB (many of these) and took apart motor casing and gave it a coat of gloss black pain. The olive green looked terrible. I aslo replaced the mount with a T-Bolt with mount. Read that these are standard now so worth the $8 in place of the 2 position u bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125382&d=1585699346

[nuhale]

I have been in touch with Jim (jimland) on my hydroboost from Mike Forte. I've written about the challanges of this part in other posts but continue to have concern about the mechanics of the unit. No engine, no hydrolic run yet so just going off of a bled system. When one of the brake circuits is lost the other is gone as well. The master relies on the hydrolic pressure to engage both brake circuits. There are mechanical features in the master that should engage but not getting the plunge depth from the hydro assit to engage. I'm hoping that this is provided once hydrollic pressure is in place from pump on engine. I've taken the setup apart to study the mechanisms and have gone thorough the forum for all other info. I made sure the push rod is adjusted perfectly with near pefect engagement to the master reciever. Will report with Jim as we get this figured out later down the road.

Made some steps forward... then some steps back. I had been considering a proportioning valve for some time and just decided to install. Took some time going back and re doing some lines to get it installed. Made a 1/8" steel bracket for it to mount on the lower outside frame rail. Happy with the outcome and if it was really not needed it will at very least give me piece of mind that i have the ability to adjust.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125378&d=1585699303

Now to bleeding the brakes. I had the MC off the boost and bench bled the cylander. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS! Many have said and many have ignored. You will not be happy when all installed and you have air in the MC. I took my time and made absolute sure that no air left. A bit tedious and messy but got there. I had attempted bleading the brakes with some help from a friend the good ol fashoned way. No sucsess... Attepted a vaccum tool from HF. POS, don't bother. I called the Forte hotline and he was adimant about pressure bleeding with his setup. At first was a litte upset with the notion of another tool to buy for one use only. I did some poking around on the interweb and came up with a solution. A trip to Menards and $25 later I had this....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125388&d=1585702303

Using a $9 garden sprayer, some clear hose, a $2 PSI gauge, a 1 1/4" rubber stool foot and random hardware I was able to create a solution. Had to silicone the hell out of the pressure gauge but ultimily worked PERFECT and was a one man job. I clamped over the scotts reservior, gave it around 10lb of pressure and made the bleading process extremly easy and without mess. Happy to provide anyone details of the setup if they are interested.

Tested the system and NO LEAKS. Fingers crossed that this chapter of my build is DONE. :cool:

[nuhale]

I had gotten ahead of things before I studied my coyote harness. I had installed a brake switch on the clutch to accomodate for both bottom and top safety switch. My harness was the most recent gen 2 one that only requires a bottom safety switch so another part that will eventually end up on a garage sale. Took a page out of the master EdwardB build and made a braket similar to his. I have not mounted the switch yet as waiting to pressurize the cluch cylander to get a read on best location. Will tap some holes for mounting with #6 1 1/2" allen bolt. Will come off soon to powder coat but works like a charm. Easy fab and saves a few bucks from buying FFR (which will need to be mod anyway).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125380&d=1585699325

[nuhale]

This one is a biggie for me. Ever sence I started this journey I have been spending a ridiculous amount of time studying others dash design. I have fell in love with the classic more traditional look. There are some really great dashes out and feel one of the best is GUMBALL's. Had a oppurtunity to connect with him and talk about his design. He was great and hope not too bothered by me borrowing some of his design. Have to say this was where I had my "moment of clairity" that this is Real. Can't wait to get the cover on. Going with the Vynal that Alex provided with his glove kit.

I mounted the dash with some fabricated 1x1 aluminum brackets. Checked body fit and mounted using 1/4-20 rivnuts direct to frame. The dash is held to aluminum brackets with #6 countersunk stanless screws. Had to be careful not to countersink though. Dash was thicker .090 aluminum witch helped. Like the under mount better than screws showing on dash. Feel it will be a cleaner look IMO.

Some specs:


FFR vintage gauges that came with kit. Sent back to speedhut to remove the FFR text. Added oil temp guage
Converted analog spedo to a GPS one. Was surprised how low of a cost this was.
Bought a pre-cut aluminum dash from the forum that was sized & pre cut for S/C layout and included the alex cutout... didnt have to cut squat, just open the pilot locator holes.
Tossed the FFR switches and replaced with LUCAS brand ones.
Russ thompson turn signal
alex's low profile glove (to fit with heater)
FFR heater switch
3 pos wiper switch off amazon
classic knobs from Ashly Hinton on EBay. Used some 1/4" brass hex stock and set screws.
some random stainless button switches of amazon
FFR indicator lights
lucas 56604 light (org plate light) for map light
Vent Kit from Paul Proe
Column bezel from Mike Everton



Not Shown- I struggled with the ignition and headlight pull. After too much back and forth ordered a 65 Scott Drake setup ignition and headlight pull with bezels- On the way. The ignition will be closest to spedo as I feel more comfortable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125381&d=1585699336

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125383&d=1585699359

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[nuhale]

One last post for today... I saw a post yesterday where EdwardB cautioned the brake reservior to be no more than 12" from footbox edge... mine = 13 1/2.. BRAKE SAGA CONTINUES... easy fix but now have a visable rivnut for nothing. Body will prob hide but I will know it's there. Glad I caught it now before engine in. By the way...



ENGINE GOING IN THIS WEEKEND! This COVID19 crisis may have be doing this solo.

[Straversi]

Coming along nicely. Great job on the dash and good luck with the engine install.
-Steve

[jiriza84641]

your'e in Gurnee, nice, I'm south of the City, well still in the city. have my kit on order, completion date is 4/11, so waiting on FFR to contact me for this.

[nuhale]

Big day today. Engine IS IN! Thanks to some friends that were able to brave the COVID-19 and come and help. We played it safe and have all been quarantined for over past 2 weeks. Crazy times we live in...

Overall the engine install as others have documented was a huge milestone but was pretty seemless. Only hangup we had was I had steering shaft hanging down that got wedged between inside of lift and header and couldn't get engine in mount so had to take some steps back. Other than that should have only been a 30-40 min job but took 1HR. Having 3 people was perfect. I can't belive some have done this on their own. 2 would have been ok but 3 was the magic number.

Hoping anyone can provide some pointers:

Engine not level to frame. I put a level on engine and sitting lower on PS. Will try and losen mounts and get it set as level as possible. Tips?

The oil pan looks like it's pretty flush to the bottom of the 4" frame rails. More concerning the bell housing falls below rails. Anyone address this or will be fine?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125662&d=1586050036

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[Boydster]

Congrats on the engine install! I'm not a Coyote owner, so cant help with the questions, but gotta say that last pic is a great one. Genuine happiness at a special time in the build.

[Railroad]

I think J Kleiner puts washers between the motor mounts and engine. From memory, this was to get the header off the foot box, level the engine, etc. Maybe Jeff will explain it better. I did it, just do not remember all the details.
Not impossible to do with the engine installed, I did it.

[edwardb]

I assume you have the Coyote completion kit provided spacers inside the motor mounts? On both sides? Where are the motor mount bolts located in the slots in the frame? Bottomed out on one side or the other or both? Sometimes the engine will wedge in slightly off center. Having said that, how much clearance do you have on the DS footbox to the engine and exhaust header? It's typically really tight over there. Factory Five used to tip the engine over slightly to the PS to give more clearance. Although typically not required with the current sheet metal. But just something to look at. It doesn't hurt the engine to be slightly off level, and depending on the clearance you may not want to move it.

For the bell housing, how much does it hang below?

Congrats on the engine installation! It's a big step in the build.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think J Kleiner puts washers between the motor mounts and engine.


That's the old way...after that Whitby began making some spacers...now, as Paul mentioned, FFR makes two spacers per side that are included with the Coyote kit and get assembled into the Energy Suspension motor mounts. I can't tell by the photos whether they are in there or not but I know that this kit is nearly 10 years old and predates by a good bit FFR's Coyote support so unless nuhale recently purchased a Coyote installation package he wouldn't have those.

Jeff

[nuhale]

Thanks for the follow up Jeff & Paul. Got up first thing loosened up the engine to frame mounts and was able to adjust the engine very easy to perfect level side to side. The engine is slightly down angle to rear on only using the transmission mount hardware from FFR (new 2019). I have some spacers that Forte sold me so have it adjustable. I will mess with this once I get driveshaft and get pinion angle dialed in.

As this build was originally set for a 427FBB I did get the new aluminum design and engine mount spacers in energy suspension (both sides) from FFR. Getting comfy with the fit but it looks like the engine sits about 1 1/4" above the front top rails at high point (see first pic). I can reduce this significantly by raising the trans with a jack forcing the engine more parallel to the frame. I assume by the time I get the pinion set on my pre-2015 old 8.8 IRS will fit in the bay without contact to hood. The radius of the body allows this to fit.. Just hard to visualize as I've been starting at this frame for way too long...

Other fit questions by EdwardB- Using Gasn' headers and fit is much better than I had seen here on forum. I have just below 1/2" to DS footbox corner. Much better than the 1/8" I've seen. Side of the engine clears a around 3/16" which is around what I expected.

Bell Housing sits below roughly 1/4". After doing some searching on this forum started to have other concerns using an aluminum housing but will go with it for now and possibly add a Kevlar blanket down the road. I do have a driveshaft hoop and plan to install once engine angle etc is locked int.

Pictures make my powder coat look like crap... doesn't look bad to the eye! Will have to polish things up after this is set with the eastwood powder coat polish.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125689&d=1586107211

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[nuhale]

Help!

I was planning on fabricating brackets to mount my Moroso exp tank. First I was going to assemble and install the frame hood hinges to check clearance. Not 10 min in realized that I have wrong parts. My build is a 2010 and wonder if FFR sent same brackets from MK3 and new MK4 as they seem rather similar. FFR is shut down into May so I'm a little out of luck.

Can someone please give me a measurement on clearance I should plan for on tank? Anything will help if edge of tank to frame or even CL of mount. Need a point of reference so I can continue to make progress.

Thanks!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125896&d=1586382461

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125895&d=1586382455

[edwardb]

Mine is 4-inches from the edge of the tank to the hinge bracket on the frame at the front. That gives plenty of room for the hood hinges. You don't want it any more than that because on the other side you need room for the cold air intake to curve past the tank. For height, my standard recommendation is mount it so the top of the Moroso mounting flange is even with the bottom of the chassis radiator 3/4-inch tube. That give good clearance to the hood. I made brackets to place it at that height, and then another bracket for the bottom mount that rests on the fan shroud. The tank is pretty heavy when full, so IMO needs all three mounting points.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/.highres/IMG_0556_zpsrag5xtuk.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/df4dd608-9fc8-4c6c-ad33-5007052cffd0)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Funny thing; when I built 7276, one number apart from yours, they did the same mixup. Must have been some teething pains with the very early Mk4’s. If you leave 4” where you show “?” It will clear the hinge—-barely. A full 5” would be better.

Jeff

[edwardb]

Funny thing; when I built 7276, one number apart from yours, they did the same mixup. Must have been some teething pains with the very early Mk4’s. If you leave 4” where you show “?” It will clear the hinge—-barely. A full 5” would be better.

Jeff

Unless his hinges are different than the ones I pictured, 4-inches gives the clearance shown in my picture. The bolts on the upper part of the hinge on the hood look close, but they go forward of the tank as it closes.

[Ducky2009]

Engine being level. I didn't level on the top of the engine as you show. I installed the headers and measured from the floor to the bottom of the outer (side pipe end) header flange and made equal. You'll need this when installing the body. This turned out to be almost the same as the top end being level. Couldn't quite get there at first. Ended up having to grind the frame engine mount slot on the drivers side downward approx 3/16" to shift the engine enough.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Unless his hinges are different than the ones I pictured, 4-inches gives the clearance shown in my picture. The bolts on the upper part of the hinge on the hood look close, but they go forward of the tank as it closes.

Here's one in the shop now. Tape is against the 3/4 square tube:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125947&d=1586447116

So, I'll change my statement to "...5" would be better if you have room on the LH side to get that much".

:)

Jeff

125947

[nuhale]

First start today! I've fallen way behind on my build thread and have much progress to document but this was a biggie so guess my build thread is a choose your own adventure. Unfortunately I would love to write about the flawless start where everything works 100% but alas.. not for me. I ran into some wiring trouble early where I did get some first cranks but then NOTHING. I pulled everything apart and checked with voltage meter to trace where issue is. After spending most of the day I found culprit to be poor engine ground but may be something in my harness whip to battery/starter. Not sure how this could be as I triple checked everything including my soldered joints for ground and starter wires. I'm leaning towards ground. The good news is coyote fired right up. The roar (even expected) was a shock and now know the true power of this vehicle. Straight away I noticed some issue with my wheel shooting left. I jumped out of the car and had a significant leak out of the top input of the BBB power steering rack. Disappointing as I bought new rack to avoid issues. Overall good roar but not getting a tach read and my oil pressure all over the place. Granted only ran for maybe 60 seconds given leak. More work ahead but I'm happy with this huge milestone.


https://youtu.be/Z6qECWRmYnQ

[nuhale]

After my first start last week had to take some steps back and replace the power rack that failed. Spent some extra time and got it dialed in perfect and did a "quick" alignment. Also set pinion angle for drive shaft. Some have reported a 3/4" spacer to get within .5deg. I had to go 1" block aluminum and a 3/16" washer (set between energy suspension mount and FFR offset mount). Just a heads up not to over tighten the bolts into the trans. I stripped out the threads as I torqued to bolt spec. Have to go back and drill out and add a nut to be safe.

Electrical still has been a pain. I would get the engine to turn over prior to first start and this week but then would get a gremlin and would get NOTHING. I spent close to 6+ hours checking all leads and grounds. The PCB wasn't sending a start signal to open the relay and turn the starter. After hours of frustration and many colorful words I found a loose connection to my alternator from computer. Lots of head scratching but I think I got it pegged.

I was a little overly aggressive with the FORTE hydraulic clutch adjuster rod and my bench grinder. Will need to pick up some threaded rod to replace and I need another 1/4" or so.

The hydro system worked perfectly. No leaks which was a relief. My FORTE hydroboost did brake the car but still a little spongy. Think I still have some air in the system so will be back to bleed this week. I will write up separate review on this power assist setup as I've had a good amount of difficulty with it and still feel it's a little unsafe if I lose pressure from hydro or brake line.

First GO CART 5/9/20 for my 10 year old MK4. What a journey for this poor car to sit in a warehouse for so long now finally getting on the road. Granted was only 2.5 miles around the neighborhood but was definitely an experience. This thing wants to GO!! Got both some smiles from the neighbors and a few scowls. O well....

Also thanks to Peter for bringing his MK4 over and witnessing the first drive.


https://youtu.be/VZtbjXqG_I8

[nuhale]

https://youtu.be/CUEvZGI33L0

[LOBO 302]

September 2019

Started the process of the braking system back in Sept 19. Have the stock Mustang brakes F&R that came with FFR kit. I was contemplating upgrading to Wilwood kit but decided to just go with a Forte's hydroboost setup with already installed brakes by previous owner. Next came the countless hours of research on what materials and tools best used. I had my heart set on stainless but after some tinkering in the garage and good reviews I decided on Nicopp. I spend too much time on the details and as crazy as it sounds really like the look of copper against the black powder coat. Picked up an Eastwood flaring tool and a tube straightener off EBay. AMAZON SHOPPERS BEWARE! -> The Nicopp that is found and recommended by Amazon is CRAP!!! It was crimping in my flaring tool and spun me around for hours thinking something was wrong with the tool. I finally had a "Doh!" moment and realized it was the material. I bought another "made in the USA" from the stop shop and it flared perfect. I bought some suspension ceiling wire in a coil too & used straightener to make bendable lengths to rough in my lines. This made process manageable and did all the runs as continuous with no unions. Only have the "T" for the front and rear split. All in all the process took some learning but Nicopp was great to work with and all in all turned out great. Fast forward to Feb 2020 this past weekend where my inexperience in fittings came out as I used a 45 inverted flare to fit to the 3AN banjo nuts provided by Forte's Hydroboost. Spoke with Mike and said should be fine but I decided to do it right. Bought the 37deg wheel from Eastwood and corrected. I pulled the lines off and cut the very end off with cutting wheel. Cleaned up the end and flared to single 37deg flare. This took roughly 1/4" off the length which made my "perfect" parallel lines look off to get around the 3/4" frame. Something that I'll only notice but my perfect lines slightly off.

Had to re-flare the lines meeting the 3AN banjo nuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122327&d=1581371879

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122328&d=1581371887

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122336&d=1581371956

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122329&d=1581371896

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122330&d=1581371906

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122331&d=1581371914

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122332&d=1581371923

Does the kit come with all the paddes clamps to hold down all the lines on the frame?

[nuhale]

The kit comes with assortment of rubber padded clamps for fuel and brake lines. I replaced them with stainless clamps purchased on Amazon.

[LOBO 302]

The kit comes with assortment of rubber padded clamps for fuel and brake lines. I replaced them with stainless clamps purchased on Amazon.

The builder who posts a list of upgraded hardware and their uses and suppliers could make millions!! The more I research though the more I realize how personalized these builds really are

[nuhale]

The more time you spend on the forum, the more $$ you will spend! Joking aside there are many options, custom touches and upgrades. I'm a year into my build and one of the best things about the build IMO is that you make it how you want it. Be ready to step forward then rethink and redo. Many late nights of completing a system only to go back and make some changes that suits my preference. I'm a bit of a perfectionist so that doesn't help.

Good luck with your research.

[nuhale]

Paging Mr. Kleiner! (or anyone really)

Need help on #7275. I have the first wave of MKIV design with the dropped trunk. Fitting aluminum panels as I was going to install this afternoon and feel like the large drop area is a little flimsy. There is no support above the tank other than the perimeter. The box above fuel pump is only a flange as well so only has 3/4" support on 2 sides. I think I will need to weld in some 3/4" tube supports which would be a pain as I will drop the tank to make sure I don't blow up.

Any solutions? Suggestions?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128332&d=1589406781

[Jeff Kleiner]

I didn't add or modify anything when I built 7276 and I know for a fact that he and his wife pack that trunk FULL when they travel or go to shows and haven't had any issues. You're right though there isn't a lot of structure back there and I think that may be at least part of the reason why this more spacious trunk configuration was short lived. If you do drop the tank don't forget to do my "coupler mod" while it's down ;)

Jeff

[FLPBFoot]

128363

Looks like you are missing a couple cross members. Must be the early MK IVs and the expanded trunk? This is my truck with drop trunk added.

Steve

[nuhale]

HAVING AN ABSOLUTE FREAK OUT MOMENT.

I somewhat knew that registration of this vehicle was going to be a pain but I put in back of my mind to enjoy the build process. I'm starting the process of getting the body on and was hoping to have 7275 on the road this summer in gel coat before my number gets pulled by Mr. Kleiner for paint. I bought 7275 (2010 MK4) off Ebay as a partial build (basic roller) and basically stripped down and started from scratch. Paid taxes on the kit in Illinois from my Ebay sale and engine/trans from Forte.

Just got off the phone with the Illinois Sec of State office that controls "specialty consulted vehicles" and they are telling me that I will need to go through a bonding process in order to have a title issued as my name not on this certificate. Need 1.5x the appraised value of the car. Said the original owner was "obligated to complete for title". Plain out silly. I did a little digging on these surety bonds and they are expensive!! I have the certificate of origin and was signed over with bill of sale. Why on earth will I need to go through this process? Also freaking out if they are going to devalue the vehicle as a result which will impact my inevitable debate with insurance company.

Please someone talk me off a cliff or share experience (specifically in Illinois). I'm going to go rip around the neighborhood in my paper weight... :mad:

[edwardb]

My experience is Michigan, but is almost exactly the same story so will offer FWIW. Bought the Mk4 barely started kit in New Hampshire. Had a fully executed bill of sale and the certificate of origin with the original owner's name on it. When the build was done, took all the documentation to the Secretary of State office (our version of the DMV) title and license and hit the wall. First said the original owner should have signed over the certificate of origin. I pointed out that document can only be signed by a registered dealer. Says right there on the form. Then they said well he should have titled it before selling it to me. I replied it would be hard to title a frame and a bunch of boxes of parts. For that I got a dirty look. After spending about 30 minutes on the phone with Lansing, they came back with the exact surety bond requirement you're describing. Said that was the only way I would be able to get it titled. I left and called my independent insurance agent. This is where maybe my experience may be useful for you. They said there were multiple companies who wrote that kind of insurance, and depending on their perceived risk, the cost would vary between a couple hundred dollars if the underwriters thought it was low risk up to a couple thousand if they thought it was high. In my case, with the documentation and case I had, the lowest risk underwriters wouldn't write a policy. But a more medium risk company did. Cost around $700 - 800 dollars. Don't remember the exact amount. He said the next step up would have been much more expensive. Took the surety bond documentation back to the SOS office and everything sailed through. They tried to tell me the surety bond was to protect me. But we both know that wasn't the case. But again the bottom line here is if you have to go that way, the better your documentation and case, the less perceived risk and the lower the cost. Still not free though unfortunately.

On a total different tack, I've saw recently in a thread on this subject that Factory Five will now consider issuing a new certificate of origin for a new owner. In the past they wouldn't do that. The post was from Dave C. at Factory Five. He said if they're able to contact the original owner and confirm the sale, they will issue a new document. He said to contact Sally Bean with the request. They apparently have copies of every single certificate of origin they've ever issued. That likely wouldn't have worked in my situation. But maybe it would in yours.

Illinois charging you sales tax a second time is just plain wrong. Hopefully you can get with the right people to resolve that.

Good luck.

[nuhale]

WAY Behind on my build thread and one of these days I'll sit down and update. Had some fellow builders over this past weekend to go over a few punch list items before I do final assembly and amongst a few head scratches one was my wiper motor/switch. I was trying to do a more vintage look and went with a rotary wiper switch that seemed rather straight forward. Remember.. measure twice cut once... In this case assumptions got the best of me but not a complete loss. I purchased a Cole Hersee wiper switch (75212-04) from amazon and it appeared to be compatible with the wiring schematic for lucas wiper motor. WRONG. It's a simple 3 position switch with 4 terminals. One is the constant +12V that connects to each with knob turn.

The LUCAS wiper motor gets a +12V ignition and jumps the park function with low speed to put the motor in park mode. The switch I have will work fine for low and high wiper speed but will need to install a momentary switch hidden under dash to park the wipers.

UPDATE: Decided to install a relay off the P function of the cole hersee switch. This will enable the jumper to connect between the park and low function of the motor.

Heads up to anyone looking to use a knob based wiper switch to pass on this one unless cool with a separate park button.

[nuhale]

Spoke with Jeff Kleiner earlier today to get my head on straight but need to vent (PUN INTENDED). Had the body on this past weekend and noticed something strange with the louver cuts from FFR. As an engineer I'm just plain annoyed with sloppy work. The cuts are over 1.5" off PS/DS. Just disappointing work. Jeff tells me no biggie and this is normal. "you only see one side of the car at a time". Wise words but something tells me I'm going to correct this as this is one of those things that will drive me bananas with how much $$$ I have into this thing. I can let some variance slide but 1.5"?? I wish I could work in those tolerances in my profession of medical devises.

Who's with me or tell me I'm crazy??? :)

[Railroad]

Not even going to check mine. I will leave it up to Kleiner when it is my turn.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Who's with me or tell me I'm crazy??? :)

I don't know if you're crazy now but if you spend too much time looking at the body and obsessing you'll wind up that way! Think of the non symmetrical louvers as just part of it's charm kind of like the off center and skewed hood opening, crosseyed headlights and crooked radiator grille opening...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131794&d=1544925801

...and we won't even talk about the back end of the car ;) Sometimes it's best to think of it as having two unique half cars; one left and one right :p

Jeff


131794

[Al_C]

Spoke with Jeff Kleiner earlier today to get my head on straight but need to vent (PUN INTENDED). Had the body on this past weekend and noticed something strange with the louver cuts from FFR. As an engineer I'm just plain annoyed with sloppy work. The cuts are over 1.5" off PS/DS. Just disappointing work. Jeff tells me no biggie and this is normal. "you only see one side of the car at a time". Wise words but something tells me I'm going to correct this as this is one of those things that will drive me bananas with how much $$$ I have into this thing. I can let some variance slide but 1.5"?? I wish I could work in those tolerances in my profession of medical devises.

Who's with me or tell me I'm crazy??? :)

both. Jeff is correct - you only see one side at a time. but, you want it symmetrical, too. If Jeff does your body work for you, you could always have him "move" the openings...

Paraphrasing other advice I received - don't forget, this is a custom vehicle. There is no other like it.

[nuhale]

Mocked up 7275 this weekend so I can get the pictures for the registration process. I understand this is a 6-8 week process so wanted to get things moving and parallel the finishing steps so maybe get some miles by end of summer. Nothing this forum hasn't seen before but seeing it mocked up really brought some emotion as this one is mine and unique to me :). I don't want to say "end in sight" as I fully know this vehicle will NEVER be done.

Couple of observations that I already see many have overcome so will certainly be thread hopping for info.

1. Body cut outs. What a mess. If ever to do this again I will not opt for them cut by FFR.
2. DS side pipe cut out (PS IS PERFECT). I had to open the FFR cut out roughly 1/2" towards the door. This left a fairly large opening on the front wheel side. Hoping this is something that Master Kleiner can clean up and make it appear nice and tight. My cut got the pipe to fit but looks like SH*%.
3. Windshield.... where do I start. Lots of work coming my way when I mount this for good in the coming weeks. I've done enough reading and had some consult time with other builders so I know what to do. Just terrified of breaking the window. This windshield hasn't been out of the box in 10years. I had some de-laminating in the top corner. I got adventurous and CAREFULLY hit it with a small butane torch and the bloom was gone. Lucky me.
4. Louvers: I decided to punt this one to Jeff once he pulls my number. If you see the pics below LH/RH you will see one side lower by over 1".
5. Lucas Tri-Bar replicas: The mounts don't quite line up so a little finagling will be in order to get them nice and straight.
6. Roll Bar: not in the pics as its off for chrome. I have the breeze setup and if done again maybe gone a different direction. They look great and no discredit to Breeze but a good amount of work to get them done.
7. Side pipes: PS is pretty good. DS will need a shim as it's out over an inch from the rear stance. These are the FFR pipes that I sprayed with rustoleum high temp. I have Gas'n stainless sitting in the box. I figure get some use out of these FFR ones and just hand the Gas'n ones to Jeff.

Clock is ticking now... now to the finishing steps!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132151&d=1595256748

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132150&d=1595256741

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132148&d=1595256726

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132147&d=1595256719

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132149&d=1595256732

[nuhale]

As of noon today 7275 is STREET LEGAL. Got my tags and plan to take her out for a few miles but nice and easy to find any 'bugs'. Still need alignment too which is scheduled for Monday.

[bldr.rob]

Congrats!

[nuhale]

Well.. my 15min ride was fun but extremely frightening and took it slow. I've driven muscle cars many times but not one that I have baby'd and put so much time and effort into. My alignment is S%$T!! Going back at it tomorrow and will clean it up. Having it professionally done on Monday but its so off I shouldn't have it on the road. Need to get it closer as I have to drive 30 min to the shop.

Issue #2 is some kind of back feed in the electrical system. I've noticed the flash to pass system is very sensitive to back feeding already. When i have hazard and turn signal on at same time the coyote PCB gets power. Odd and couldn't figure it out but just left it to these two things will never be used simultaneously so what does it matter. The issue now is when I have the bilge blowers on for footbox and activate the turn signal the flasher goes bananas. Appreciate any thoughts...

[nuhale]

Spent yesterday doing a much more precise alignment on really just the toe. I have appt for professional alignment Monday afternoon and will let the pros' deal with camber and caster. Got the rack perfectly centered and the toe/basic tire alignment is good. Drives much better. Ran into some minor trouble on ride height. Looking for 4" front and 4.5" rear. The rear was no problem at all. The fronts are starting to compress the spring even when up on a jack. Using a spanner wrench I was only able to get it just a touch over 4" not accounting for my weight (I'm a big guy). All in all I'll let the shop get it better dialed in...

First 100 miles today. Slowly building confidence. Gave it a couple hard accelerations but it can do so much more. Have to ease into this for sure. What a rewarding experience to drive this today. I will be thinking of nothing else as my wife called me home as we have plans...

No leaks to report. I need to lock down the front wells as I'm worried about the bulb seal contact to the side pipe.

I was worried about comfort and fit and can report this is not too much of an issue. I'm 6'-4" 260lbs and its not a lazy boy but really not all that bad IMO.

LOUD. I have my FFR pipes on but have a set of Gas'n ones still in the box. Was going to wait until paint to avoid any damage to them but they may have to come out. Had to go back and get my ear plugs as started to develop a bit of a headache. All good with the plugs.

This car also attracts a ton of attention. In the couple hours jotting around town this am I had countless people staring, waving, etc. I can see where this car requires a fully aware and observant driver as not only are you taming a monster, you have to avoid all the other drivers not paying attention.

Can't wait to wake up tomorrow and put another 100 on... maybe more!

[nuhale]

Unbelievable weather this weekend in Chicago and 200 miles on 7275. Prob shouldn't have without proper alignment but I couldn't resist... close enough :) I'm scheduled for alignment tomorrow but that will have to wait. I was looking at pulling specs for the appointment and somehow "luckily" stumbled on old threads that explain need to replace UCA adjustment sleeves on the earlier MKIV's. Well winner-winner 7275 has these older 3.5" sleeves. Just ordered 4" & 5" steel AFCO sleeves from Summit so looks like this will be on hold for a bit.

I did a terrible job on track width on the rear. FFR manual says 59" but I have read 59.5". Any thoughts out there? Seems to be commonly discussed. Assuming shop can get this dialed in?

[nuhale]

First night cruise this evening. Easy 80 miles in some back country roads. When I received 7275 it came with a heater kit and much time spent reading if I should or shouldn't install it. After tonight I'm glad I did in spite of the pain in the butt it was. I have heated seats which too am glad I installed. Had to cycle those on and off but had the heater fan on low which really made the cool night much more enjoyable. Fantastic ride.

Really great suspension as I barely felt the possum I hit as it ran out in front of me. :)

Also had to pull the front UCA arms apart today to install longer adjuster sleeves as I have the early parts used on MK4's. Another reason this forum is great as I would have never known about this. Prepping for professional alignment tomorrow so looking forward to having the ride locked in nice. It's pretty decent now and I'm sure it's about 90% there (sure the shop will tell me otherwise).

[GTBradley]

I really like having the heater too. It just makes the cool nights more enjoyable and gives you a nice place to quickly warm your fingers.

[Jeff Kleiner]

How did the alignment go Brian?

Jeff

[nuhale]

I was referred to Don Hansens' auto alignment in McHenry by Sten. Great little shop and the guys there were great. They found some issues and corrected for me including a loose DS LCA ball joint that I posted about prior and couldn't torque down. Also a loose rear bearing to not having the nut tightened enough. This was bothersome as I put 250lbs on it and it was still wobbly. They fixed it right up.

7275 aligned DEAD NUTS and drives unbelievably well. With my older setup I was able to get the +7* caster w/o spacing the shock to avoid contact. That was a +.


Front:
1/16 total toe in
-1* Camber
+7* Caster (I have power steering)
Rear
1/16 total toe in
-1* camber

I'm going to put it back up on stands in the coming days as my oil pan is leaking out one of the ports. Gonna measure the rear stance again as I'm concerned it may be a touch to wide and will check if its centered. Thrush is good but not sure if this has any bearing on how the rear tires are centered to frame.

Going back out after the damn rain ends in a bit... Pretty much everything is done and ready for my # to be pulled by Mr. Kleiner...
Spent this am getting all the extra parts I have put aside for an upcoming garage sale.

[Railroad]

Those are some good alignment numbers. What kind of ride height did you use?

[nuhale]

4" Front - 4.5" Rear

[nuhale]

Been a week on the road and have 600 miles on 7275. So far this has been amazing. All I want to do is go for a drive and wondering if/when this excitement settles.

Couple things this week including an alignment that was like getting a newer, new car after done. Handles better than I imagined. Getting more comfortable driving and giving it more and more throttle. I'm trying to be cautious both for safety and the engine break in period but I can't resist the occasional gunning' it at the green light. Changed my side pipes almost immediately as the FFR ones were giving me a splitting headache. Put on my Gasn' and they are absolutely perfect. Still have adjustments to do including figuring out my Russ Thompson signal. The thing seems to have a mind of it's own in the right turn setting. Left seems to work ok. My steering wheel is still sliding out slightly as I've had a heck of a time getting to the set screw. Think I will have to take some of the material off the mount to reach it properly. My Moroso oil pan developed a small drip out of one of the ports. Jacked up the front and the plug was loose. I know i tightened it down weeks ago so guessing the vibration is having fun with me. Mounted a quick release fire extinguisher in the trunk just in case but so far no other signs of fuel leaks of any kind. My Forte hydro-boost is working pretty well but been playing with the prop valve to get a nice even stop. I do have the slightest oil leak out of the hydro pump. It's not the KRC setup and seems to get the job done. Not really a problem at this point but I can see where this will be on the project list for next year.

One question to the forum on the heater vents. I knew from riding with other builders and reading that hot air is forced through the heater system even when off. Has anyone solved this with a cap of some sort on the vents themselves?

[TMartinLVNV]

Been a week on the road and have 600 miles on 7275. So far this has been amazing. All I want to do is go for a drive and wondering if/when this excitement settles.

Couple things this week including an alignment that was like getting a newer, new car after done. Handles better than I imagined. Getting more comfortable driving and giving it more and more throttle. I'm trying to be cautious both for safety and the engine break in period but I can't resist the occasional gunning' it at the green light. Changed my side pipes almost immediately as the FFR ones were giving me a splitting headache. Put on my Gasn' and they are absolutely perfect. Still have adjustments to do including figuring out my Russ Thompson signal. The thing seems to have a mind of it's own in the right turn setting. Left seems to work ok. My steering wheel is still sliding out slightly as I've had a heck of a time getting to the set screw. Think I will have to take some of the material off the mount to reach it properly. My Moroso oil pan developed a small drip out of one of the ports. Jacked up the front and the plug was loose. I know i tightened it down weeks ago so guessing the vibration is having fun with me. Mounted a quick release fire extinguisher in the trunk just in case but so far no other signs of fuel leaks of any kind. My Forte hydro-boost is working pretty well but been playing with the prop valve to get a nice even stop. I do have the slightest oil leak out of the hydro pump. It's not the KRC setup and seems to get the job done. Not really a problem at this point but I can see where this will be on the project list for next year.

One question to the forum on the heater vents. I knew from riding with other builders and reading that hot air is forced through the heater system even when off. Has anyone solved this with a cap of some sort on the vents themselves?

Yep, the plasti-chrome vent/air directors can be turned so that they block off all air. Rotate them 90 degrees. It took me a while to figure this out.

[nuhale]

I have the black plastic gimbal air vents and have them in the "off" position where the flat is dampening the air flow. Air still flows around the edge which is noticeable. Not terrible but wondering is anyone found a quick fix like a silicone half round cap or something.

[TMartinLVNV]

I have the black plastic gimbal air vents and have them in the "off" position where the flat is dampening the air flow. Air still flows around the edge which is noticeable. Not terrible but wondering is anyone found a quick fix like a silicone half round cap or something.

Hmm, haven't heard of anyone "capping" the vents in the passenger compartment. How about attacking this from the other end? Like fabbing up a removable plug in the inlet of the heater box. My car is under the cover right now, but from memory, I think there is about a 5" opening on one side of the heater box. You might get lucky and find a coffee can lid that just happens to be the right size. That part of the engine bay shouldn't get too hot.

[nuhale]

Thanks for the suggestion. I actually went down this path initially and engineered & 3D printed an adapter that would pull air in from the cabin. The other side of the motor has openings as well which would still force air from engine bay due to pressure while driving so I scrapped it. I'll think of something. It's not a huge issue but as they say.. happy wife (she was the one complaining about the heat). :)

[GTBradley]

boat737 made a nice shroud to surround the heater for this purpose:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20883-Vintage-Air-mounting-modification

[Nigel Allen]

I recall someone posting that they successfully put a shower cap over the heater to prevent airflow. Maybe don't use the wife's.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Don't make it any more complex or difficult than it needs to be! Simply stop by your local hardware store or get on Amazon for a 2 1/2" expanding rubber test plug. Insert it into the heater box inlet on the engine bay side, turn the wing nut to snug it and the problem is solved in under 10 seconds for less than 10 bucks.

134863

You're welcome ;)

Jeff

[Nigel Allen]

Don't make it any more complex or difficult than it needs to be! Simply stop by your local hardware store or get on Amazon for a 2 1/2" expanding rubber test plug. Insert it into the heater box inlet on the engine bay side, turn the wing nut to snug it and the problem is solved in under 10 seconds for less than 10 bucks.

134863

You're welcome ;)

Jeff

What? you arent willing to part with your shower cap?

[nuhale]

I know this has been discussed quite a bit but maybe some new info out there so thought I would open it up for just a minute... I just traded notes with Lund based on the many positive recommendations made by this forum and it's members. In all likelihood I will most likely go with them for my Gen 2 tune. The quote I received was just shy of $1200 (this is public on their site so not compromising anything) which really gives yet another "ouch" in this process. I do not challenge Lund and their quality/service but wondering if anyone else out there has engaged with a lesser cost option and had a decent experience?

I see I can probably pick up a tuner device SCT X4 on eBay that will save some $$ but exploring options at this point. A google search yields several out there but curious if any forum members can share experiences.

[Railroad]

My Gen 1 was $750 for tuning, plus the cost of SCT X4, so about right.
You might find tuning for less, but I was pleased with the tuning on the Coyote and 2 other Fords.
It is nice to get an answer to your questions or adjustments to your tune ASAP.

[edwardb]

Whoa! Can you say price increase? Business must be good. I'm one of the ones that has routinely recommended Lund Racing. But it was $700 - $800. Less for my Coupe because I re-used the nGauge from before. Looking at their website, it's clearly a change and different than just earlier this year. I do notice they're saying six months of support covered (used to be three) but that's a pretty big price jump to say the least. I suspect you could find it for less, but I don't know. Haven't tried. If you do choose to look elsewhere, just be very clear that you're talking about a crate motor with the Ford Performance control pack tune. Lots of shops do Mustangs all day long. But may not know the crate motor calibration. I found that out with my first Coyote build.

[nuhale]

Just to further document this I spoke with VMP performance. They are not far off with their custom tune at $699 + cost of tuner (again pricing listed on website so not compromising). Lund is at $800 + cost of tuner. Looks like not too far of a hike from what others are saying or past threads. Still open for other thoughts!

After 700 miles now in 7275 I'm not sure how this engine gets any better but based on other threads I'm certainly curious!

[GTBradley]

My local tuner did a dyno-tune for $800. I liked having the rear wheel data, but it would be nice to be able to change the tune myself, as I've heard Lund can make that possible.

[edwardb]

Just to further document this I spoke with VMP performance. They are not far off with their custom tune at $699 + cost of tuner (again pricing listed on website so not compromising). Lund is at $800 + cost of tuner. Looks like not too far of a hike from what others are saying or past threads. Still open for other thoughts!

After 700 miles now in 7275 I'm not sure how this engine gets any better but based on other threads I'm certainly curious!

My experience with the custom tune in my Gen 2 Roadster was the following. I ran it with the stock tune for about 1,000 miles. It ran OK and could have been left like that. Many others have left the stock tune. However, I did feel like mainly the lower RPM wasn't great. The engine just wasn't "happy" unless 2,000-2,500 or so RPM and up. Little hesitant on launches, again unless you pulled the RPM up. Putting around the neighborhood at low RPM wasn't smooth. All subtle but just not what you'd expect out of an engine of that caliber. With the custom tune, the change was immediate. Low RPM was much more responsive. The car was easy to launch and didn't complain if the RPM's fell to 1,500 or even less while cruising. After several iterations of the tune it was even better. I wouldn't say I ever noticed a big increase in power. If any at all. But it just ran so much better and was easier and more fun to drive. Again mainly at the lower RPM's. According to Lund, the main contributor is the MAF calibration. Once you remove the stock airbox, it's no longer optimal. Hope that helps a little giving you an idea what to expect and maybe if you notice any of that with yours. Some might consider it a little expensive, especially with the increase, for the improvement you get.

BTW, for anyone reading this doing a Gen 3 Coyote, the story is completely different. The Gen 3 is not even driveable unless you have a custom tune. Lurched, shuddered, cut out, went into lump mode, threw codes, etc. That was my experience and others have reported the same. Custom tune fixed it up. So custom tune isn't optional for the Gen 3. Plan on it.

[FLPBFoot]

Give Regis a call at Black Dog Speedshop in Libertyville. They do dyno tuning for carbs and specialize in high performance Injected engines like Coyotes. Give him my name, Steve Hewson. They’ve done a couple things for me.

[Nigel Allen]

My experience with the custom tune in my Gen 2 Roadster was the following. I ran it with the stock tune for about 1,000 miles. It ran OK and could have been left like that. Many others have left the stock tune. However, I did feel like mainly the lower RPM wasn't great. The engine just wasn't "happy" unless 2,000-2,500 or so RPM and up. Little hesitant on launches, again unless you pulled the RPM up. Putting around the neighborhood at low RPM wasn't smooth. All subtle but just not what you'd expect out of an engine of that caliber. With the custom tune, the change was immediate. Low RPM was much more responsive. The car was easy to launch and didn't complain if the RPM's fell to 1,500 or even less while cruising. After several iterations of the tune it was even better. I wouldn't say I ever noticed a big increase in power. If any at all. But it just ran so much better and was easier and more fun to drive. Again mainly at the lower RPM's. According to Lund, the main contributor is the MAF calibration. Once you remove the stock airbox, it's no longer optimal. Hope that helps a little giving you an idea what to expect and maybe if you notice any of that with yours. Some might consider it a little expensive, especially with the increase, for the improvement you get.

X2. Although mine is a gen1 with Spectre intake, my personal experience matches what Paul writes above. I am currently in the tuning process with Lund and an Ngauge. It was a hard decision to make, with the exchange rate and shipping, it was almost double the US price. At least I purchased it before the big price hike being mentioned.

Although I have not completed the tuning process yet, mostly due to wet weather over here, I have loaded the initial tune and the improvement has been dramatic, both in drivability and exhaust tone. It is a much improved car, so probably worth the investment on this alone. The latest data looging request from Lund is to take the car from 2,500 to 7,000rpm in 3rd or 4th gear at WOT. I just cant do this around here without instant loss of license, So this morning I took the car to a dyno to do one pull and send it to Lund. The dyno tech was great, but he couldnt take the car past 5,000 as his test equipment was indicating detonating. I will send the log to Lund for updating. In summary, I consider really it important to have at least some kind of tuning done to ensure the engine is running as it should be. I certainly couldnt tell it was detonating as it was inaudible to me. Could it have damaged the engine in the short or long term? I dont know, that is something I am hoping the experts on this forum might be able to shed some light on.

Hope this helps a bit with your decision making on whether to tune or not to tune.

Cheers,

Nigel

[nuhale]

I'm considering replacing my intake manifold with this one from Holley.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135167&d=1600353881

https://www.holley.com/products/intakes/efi_manifolds/parts/839031

I'm gonna be honest that the move is more for the jewelry box aspect as I'm not in love with the plastic gen 2 cover. It's ok... This manifold with the chrome coil covers would look sweet IMO. I'm in the process of finding a tuner so would prefer to pay for this once as replacing the manifold will certainly require a tune. Anyone make this change and could share their experince?

Thanks!

UPDATE 10/15/20: After several discussions with performance shops decided not to go this direction. Lots of negitive feedback from the pros on this (or similar) intakes ranging from they don't seal well to heat transfer to the aluminum. Several reccos for the new gen 3 GT intake or if wanting "jewelry" the Boss 302.

[Railroad]

Check hood clearance. Looks good!

[Straversi]

I installed an aluminum intake manifold from Modular Motorsport Racing On my 2016 Gen II. . Very similar to the Holly you show. I had the same expectations; something that looked better (to my personal taste) than the factory plastic. I’m very happy with it. Looks good, fired right up with the factory tune and hasn’t given me any problems. I did have an aftermarket tune because of the intake and headers. There are pros and cons of giving up the CMCV system and supposedly some low end performance drop, but I love the look and don’t notice any lack of performance. Can’t post a photo from my phone but my build thread has plenty if you are interested.
-Steve

[nuhale]

Sad end to the day yesterday. 7275 was tucked in for a long slumber in storage as winter is approaching. Did all the maintenance including oil, flushed coolant, greased joints, full tank etc. On a positive note we've had some pretty good fall weather unto this point and was able to log 1500 Miles on 7275 from getting her registered in September. I'm a junkie! This has been an amazing experience and driving the MKIV truly is the icing on the cake... Can't wait for spring!!!!!

Now just pick up the garage, get the daily drivers back in place which will make wife happy and wait for the call from Kleiner that my number has been pulled. ;)

[nuhale]

Had some favorable weather today so was able to wake up 7275 and go for a nice fall afternoon drive. All was well a couple weeks ago going into storage. Apparently a Gremlin broke in and messed with my oil pressure gauge/sensor.

Here's the issue... Gauge shows "0" until above 2500RPM (almost exactly) then jumps on. Once I fall back below RPM the gauge goes back to "0". Checked for loose connection on sensor but didn't appear so.

Any ideas?

[Railroad]

I will bet, what are Speed Hut gauges, for $50, Alex.

[nuhale]

yes speedhut. I'm seeing some noise on the 2-wire... which is what I have.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've had to replace several Speedhut pressure senders when they have gone belly up. Speedhut knows that they are prone to failure and will send you a replacement if you call. If they are sending one with the molded connector rather than the two studs ask them to include the matching pigtail as well. I believe the failures are vibration related and have begun taking the sender off of the engine and remote mounting them to the chassis or F panel using a short section of -3AN hose and fittings---none of those have failed.

Jeff

[nuhale]

Update that 7275 is going to paint. Working with Spotlight Customs in Georgia. Now the fun part of getting it down there. I'm leaning towards renting a U-Haul flat car hauler and taking it myself to save a couple $$. This is a bit of a hike from Chicago. Any feedback or pointers on these trailers and distance? Will run into some grades in the Appalachian range so have some concern on the surge brake setup on these U-Haul's. Using a chevy express work van to tow.

[Railroad]

The trailer is heavier than the car. I pulled those trailers before buying one.
They are heavy duty, and I had good luck with them. Some dealers will not rent one for a too small of a tow vehicle.
I do not think my 2 wheel drive F150 qualified at the time.
Might want to check the vans towing and hp numbers with the rental site.
The trailer comes with wheel strap tie downs.
If you have the tow power, you will be fine.
good luck,

[TMartinLVNV]

Update that 7275 is going to paint. Working with Spotlight Customs in Georgia. Now the fun part of getting it down there. I'm leaning towards renting a U-Haul flat car hauler and taking it myself to save a couple $$. This is a bit of a hike from Chicago. Any feedback or pointers on these trailers and distance? Will run into some grades in the Appalachian range so have some concern on the surge brake setup on these U-Haul's. Using a chevy express work van to tow.

I used one of these trailers to bring mine to CA for paint with Jeff Miller. These trailers are built very tough. I never found braking to be an issue. I pulled it with Vegas Jack's Nissan Frontier with ease. On I-15 from Las Vegas, we go through plenty of ups and downs plus the El Cajon Pass which is a long descending highway with sweeping turns.

Give the trailer a good look over. Some of them are old and have been used hard and put away wet.

[nuhale]

The express van will be more than enough as it has tow pack. Think it's 8000lbs. EDIT: It's a 2500 3/4 ton with over 10,000 towing capacity... no problems there.

I know the recommended speed is 55mph. Not that I'm looking to hit triple digits but did you experience any oddities at ~70MPH. Thanks for the feedback!

[TMartinLVNV]

Nope. 70 was fine. Check the air pressure on the tires. I think the 4 trailer tires ranged from 25 to 60 psi. The recommended pressure is on a sticker on the trailer.

[BadAsp427]

As long as the weather is not going to be messy, that is a great trailer... The surge brakes work GREAT and you will not even know they are there except when you hit the brakes and then realize you do not feel the trailer pushing you as much as you would expect. When are you going to be taking it? If needed, I could be interested in assisting you with transport with my enclosed trailer. PM me if interested.

[nuhale]

Have a couple action items before 7275 goes to paint. Much of it is some final body fitment as I rushed to get it on the road to enjoy for the end of this driving season. My body is sitting PS about 5/16" so back at it to adjust.

Windshield mounts are eating at me a bit as I have some ADHD. AT LEAST THE ISSUE IS SYMETRICAL so there's that... Anyone have a tip or trick to bend these? I understand this is a common issue. Was thinking about taking out the side screws while supporting the windshield with a 2x4 against the rear cab body. Two popsicle sticks between a clamp and some leverage should do it?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138232&d=1606240848

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138233&d=1606240866

[nuhale]

My other punch list prior to paint:

1. Adjust body PS to DS roughly 1/4"-5/16" in front
2. Clean up hood mount latches. Plan to use Paul's method for threaded bases and notched angle on body
3. Prep side louvers (DONE, polished and was a pain)
4. DS door adjustment. I have the latch catch coming off the frame mount way too much. Will adjust body, re-adjust the door then remount latch
5. Trunk "tear drop" cover for inside (bought from dark water customs). Plan to use alum rivnuts to mount.
6. Telescoping Trunk prop from Period Correct install. Alum Rivnuts on trunk and #8 countersunk into body.
7. Minor electric work. Plan to put in a diode or two as getting some minor backfeeding thru my grounds somehow from bilge pump fan & russ thompson flash to pass setup.

[nuhale]

Also taking a stab at a custom Gen2 Coyote cover. Not sure how this will turn out but starting to fabricate a custom made cover that will incorporate this aluminum oval air cleaner cover and cammer style coil covers. I bought these blank ones off Ebay as have access to a laser engraver that I can put the "Ford" logo on and save a few $$.

Drawing up some sketches soon so will post to get some feedback from this community. Looking for that modern retro look. Maybe watched one too many "*****en Rides" episodes during the pandemic.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138236&d=1606242248

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138235&d=1606242240

[nuhale]

Got the coil covers and air filter cover. These are some pretty robust parts. Very solid. Mocked up a look with the cover elevated roughly 3/4" over the coyote plastic cover. Would plan to have the plastic coyote cover painted guardsman.

Afraid to ask but... what do you'all think? Maybe a little over the top but kind of gives it that classic look

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138493&d=1606599863

[BadAsp427]

I'm liking the concept... Why have the cover elevated? How's it look flat down?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Bryan,
As I said this afternoon, I like it! Now after seeing the big picture I'm wondering if it might not work better to have the sides if the intake cover done in a crinkle/texture black rather than guardsman so that they disappear a bit rendering the iconic oval air cleaner and the cammer covers the prominent focal points. If you do so I'd lose the 5.0 badge as well. But hey, that's just one guy's thoughts :)

Jeff

[nuhale]

Great feedback... in poking around the internet I found a hammered finish on the cover and over the 5.0 emblem. Looked pretty cool. Looked kind of like a subtle embossment. I like the black idea. Still may want to highlight with the stripe with either an aluminum insert or paint.

[nuhale]

I'm liking the concept... Why have the cover elevated? How's it look flat down?

I looked at it different ways and the raised gives it that classic look. Loses effect when flat against the cover

[nuhale]

Seeking dimensions for the side louver location, not the hole size itself. 7275 had pre-cut holes and they are almost 1-1/2" off side to side off the floor (right height is set). I cant seem to find the spec from originals or what typical builders do outside of "eyeballin' it". Gonna keep one or the other and re-glass the opposing side.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I have 5 cars here right now and just measured all 10 louver locations. From the lower edge of the body to the bottom of the opening they range from 11 1/2" to 12 5/8". They are consistently inconsistent! I have to tell you that aside from when I've had to cut them into cars that didn't have it done at the factory this is the first time I've ever measured and compared side to side ;)

Cheers!

Jeff

[Al_C]

just about 12" on mine. 7 inches from the side pipe cutout.

[nuhale]

Mine are 11 3/4" DS and 13 5/8" PS. It's noticeable.. or at least to me. Maybe this is another sign of my OCD but nevertheless I think its gonna have to be addressed.

Thanks Al & Jeff!

[BadAsp427]

Mine are 11 3/4" DS and 13 5/8" PS. It's noticeable.. or at least to me. Maybe this is another sign of my OCD but nevertheless I think its gonna have to be addressed.

Thanks Al & Jeff!

Dam, that is really far off. Did FF do that? I would have a chat with them about this and see if they have a remedy. Perhaps they could at least send you a couple of the cut out pieces they have laying around to use as a hard filler if you go that route.

[GoDadGo]

Mine are 11 3/4" DS and 13 5/8" PS. It's noticeable.. or at least to me. Maybe this is another sign of my OCD but nevertheless I think its gonna have to be addressed.

Thanks Al & Jeff!

If you are using the Stock Louves they will cover larger holes than the upgraded pre-bent set so you can likely open up the smaller hole and make them match.
Just know that bending the stock louvers doesn't always come out looking very good but if done with a make-shift break can actually come out looking great.

Louver Bending Description Video:
https://youtu.be/QyMN73IW6I8

Graduation Video Has A Good Louver Close Up Shot Around One Minute Into It:
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

Should you NOT feel like doing the bending, then please know I'll be happy to bend them for you.
Just ship them to me and I'll take care of that task for you because helping each other is what this forum is all about.

Good Luck, Happy Hanukkah, Merry Christmas & Know That I'm OCD Too!

[nuhale]

I have a upgraded pre assembled set from ********** ready to be installed. Thanks for all the suggestions! Just gonna have the painter glass over one side and match to the 11 3/4 side.

[nuhale]

Big fight with my roadster DS door. I thought I had it... then I didn't... Had to call in a favor from a great guy in Indiana. Finally after wrestling with it for hours I got it and won this round. I've been reminded that this isn't my job but what to make sure I have it set when I deliver it next week to spotlight in GA for paint. Also got the hood perfect and latches complete. Everything is lining up and pretty damn straight.

Thanks again Jeff for taking time and being patient with me!

Hanging up my gloves for the day. Tomorrow will finish up most of the punch list stuff and will get things packed up and ready for transit at the end of the week.

[GoDadGo]

The driver's door is a pain in the neck, but it can be fixed without pulling the body.
Not sure if this is a path you want to take, but it worked for me none the less.

https://youtu.be/6UK6K2jcwTU

No harm in hanging the gloves off to fight another day.
It keeps you from throwing tools and breaking something in your shop.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Always good talking with ya' Bryan! Happy to help you guys out any time---I think Go Dad had me on speed dial :p


...I've been reminded that this isn't my job...

Like I said...it isn't unless you're going to MAACO ;)

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Always good talking with ya' Bryan! Happy to help you guys out any time---I think Go Dad had me on speed dial :p



Like I said...it isn't unless you're going to MAACO ;)

Jeff


Yes, I Do Have Sir Jeffski On Speed Dial!

....My Car Turned Out Great Because Sir Jeffski Was My Guardian Kleiner!

[Al_C]

Yes, I Do Have Sir Jeffski On Speed Dial!

....My Car Turned Out Great Because Sir Jeffski Was My Guardian Kleiner!


I'm just waiting for somebody to photoshop a couple of wings onto a photo of Jeff... ;)

[nuhale]

I have a new found appreciation for the guys who do body work on these (the Jeffs and more...)

I found this frustrating but also rewarding in that I have understanding of where the body work needs to be. Good learning experience. Many posts out there about how to align the DS door. I was attempting to even up the door jambs from the door to the body without realizing the the body in front of the DS door top takes a significant dip in. Ran some string lines to show these areas. Please no criticism on the windshield upright holes. Really botched that up & will be repaired.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139276&d=1607872971

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139277&d=1607872980

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139278&d=1607872988

[Jeff Kleiner]

Like I told ya'...one of the many nuances of these things that not everybody knows or realizes ;) But it's still not your job :p

Question: You have a fiberglass scoop, right? If so maybe we'll make a deal to trade for the later ABS plastic kind.

Jeff

[nuhale]

Finished up all the punch list items. There is a back feeding issue that can occur with the RT flash to pass wiring diagram whereas if hazard is on and turn signal engaged it opens 12v back feed to fuse block and electrifies the coyote PCB. Not that these would ever be used in combination, just want to make sure I don't accidently blow fuses or cause some issues. Installed a diode in the turn 12v feed (see pic & yellow circle).

I also have an electrical issue that I may just leave well enough alone. I bought flasher relays for LED as I wanted to convert all indicator & brake lights to LED. The hazard relay works fine both on/off ignition. The turn flasher relay goes bananas when I have my bilge fan on and turn signal engaged. Went back to the analog flasher & incandescent and works. Probably just keep it this way unless someone can call me on my brain fart.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139378&d=1608146347

I finished installing the aluminum oval air cleaner to my gen 2 coyote engine cover. I plan to have spotlight customs paint the gray wings of the cover in guardsman. I think in the end this will come out really sharp and give 7275 just a little differentiation from the rest of the coyote pack. Used some spectre wing nuts holding it on an aluminum plate offset to the cover using some spacers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139380&d=1608146380

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139379&d=1608146363

Leaving to trailer 7275 down to Dahlonega, GA Friday AM. Somewhat in disbelief that I'm moving on to the body and paint steps. Going to rent a UHaul flatbed as the weather looks favorable.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Is the LED flasher polarized? If so, are you sure it's correct? If not does it make any change if you swap + and -? Are the relay and fan grounded to the same lug, terminal or under the same screw? I realize all grounds are common (and have often repeated what my old professor taught me---"ground is ground is ground is ground until it's not") but I've also seen funny things happen when a device is seeking the path of least resistance and winds up backfeeding through another. If they share any commonalities maybe try separating them to see if it forces a change in path.

Looks like it's supposed to be a dry day here; have a safe trip and don't hesitate to give me a shout if you run into any trouble when you're in my neck of the woods.

Jeff

[nuhale]

Is the LED flasher polarized? If so, are you sure it's correct? If not does it make any change if you swap + and -? Are the relay and fan grounded to the same lug, terminal or under the same screw? I realize all grounds are common (and have often repeated what my old professor taught me---"ground is ground is ground is ground until it's not") but I've also seen funny things happen when a device is seeking the path of least resistance and winds up backfeeding through another. If they share any commonalities maybe try separating them to see if it forces a change in path.

Looks like it's supposed to be a dry day here; have a safe trip and don't hesitate to give me a shout if you run into any trouble when you're in my neck of the woods.

Jeff

It's not polar specific to my knowledge. This is a grounded flasher- LED electronic style. The bilge fan is mounted on the outer F panel above wheel and is grounded to that panel. As you stated, yes they share a common ground as they all do (ground is a ground is a ground...). They do not connect at same point. The PS bilge fan doesn't cause this to occur. Again, more of an annoyance but have it functioning with incandescents and a non grounded standard mechanical flasher.

[nuhale]

7275 on the trailer and ready to go. Hitting the road first thing and will deliver to spotlight customs first thing Saturday AM.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139439&d=1608257679

[TMartinLVNV]

7275 on the trailer and ready to go. Hitting the road first thing and will deliver to spotlight customs first thing Saturday AM.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139439&d=1608257679

Looking good. That trailer is a beast. I used the same one with mine. Check the tire pressure in all 4 before you hit the road. On the one that I rented, they were all over the place.

[KDubU]

Looking good. That trailer is a beast. I used the same one with mine. Check the tire pressure in all 4 before you hit the road. On the one that I rented, they were all over the place.

Agree with that. I had one of the tires blow out on me on I95 just past the MA line in NH. Luckily it was on the return trip after dropping mine off for paint. Check the tires before you rent the unit they have.

[Blitzboy54]

Agree with that. I had one of the tires blow out on me on I95 just past the MA line in NH. Luckily it was on the return trip after dropping mine off for paint. Check the tires before you rent the unit they have.

Yup. I towed a car from NY to OR back in the day. Coming through the cascades lost a tire and definitely derailed my trip for 24 hours on the same trailer. Wish I had checked it before I left

[nuhale]

7275 "The Cubra" is with painter. Long trip down to Dahlonega from Chicago but pretty uneventful. Stopped at the Corvette Museum in Bowling Green and checked out some of the new mid-engines. That was pretty cool.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139575&d=1608470865

Overall the Uhaul trailer was a beast. Kept the speed to 70 and was no problem at all. Getting it on the trailer was a little stressful but other than that was pretty straight forward. I did lose a front Amber turn indicator cover at some point in the journey. That was frustrating. Anyone have one for sale??

I couldn't resist going for a drive with my MKIV in the Georgia mountains so that was a treat. Illinois is flat as flat gets so couldn't pass up the opportunity. The area where Spotlight Customs is has some really beautiful winding roads. Plan to come back when paint is complete.

Quick photo of both the Cubra and Chad's finished roadster in the shop. That red he and carl have chosen really is cool. I haven't been a big fan of the blacked out look but I must say his came out really nice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139574&d=1608470114

Will post some pics as painter progresses. Still heading towards Guardsman and Wimbledon. Only thing I haven't decided on is adding gumballs or the outer pinstripe.

[RJD]

Glad your trip was uneventful.

[Al_C]

Glad the trip was successful! What about Cubs blue?

[nuhale]

Glad the trip was successful! What about Cubs blue?

I considered that... I have looked at too many colors and always go back to guardsman. I know a bit overplayed but it just fits this car perfect. Not quite cubby blue but it will do!

[cv2065]

Glad you made it safely Bryan. As you said, LOTS of winding hills once you make it up to Mike's place. It's so beautiful I'll have to go back and take some photos. Looks like you'll be back in about 7-8 weeks as well.

[GTBradley]

I had a similar experience with that trailer, it’s tough but heavy and the ramps are slick. I spun my wheels and drifted perilously close to the edge. The aluminum trailers are like a thousand pounds lighter than that thing, but it gets the job done.

I hear you on the color, I did the same thing - always returning to what I knew was right deep down. Personally, I don’t think the Gaurdsman blue is done that much. With respect to the meatballs, I decided the vinyl ones look as good as paint and that way I could switch them out when I wanted.

[nuhale]

First body pic in from the body/paint shop. Just a start but the gravity of this in final steps is starting to hit me. Spent much time with the shop on my expectations of consistent gaps and nice transition of the door to front cowling.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141406&d=1611588556

[BadAsp427]

It's going to look great when Mike gets it all done.

[nuhale]

More progress from Mike at spotlight. Finishing up the seams. Body coming off Monday for primer. Progress!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141600&d=1611879655

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141599&d=1611879646

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141603&d=1611879676

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141602&d=1611879669

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141601&d=1611879662

[RJD]

Looking good!

[BadAsp427]

Great photos of progress.... Why is your hood scoop red? Is it fiberglass or something other than the black plastic/vinyl that most get?

[Al_C]

Progress! Yay!

[nuhale]

This is one of the early MKIV's that came with fiberglass scoop.

[GoDadGo]

This is one of the early MKIV's that came with fiberglass scoop.

If I had the Glass Scoop, I probably would have installed it.
This is something I wish they still offered.
LooooooooKing GooooooooD!

[nuhale]

Been pretty bored without 7275 here in COVIDLAND. Been doing some thought around work that can be done when she comes home from paint. A question for all you EE's out there...

I repurposed the "choke" circuit to run my footbox vent bilge fans. This is on the same bus line on the fuse box as the turn signal fuse. I upgraded my bulbs to LED and flashers to electronic to support. When both fan and turn signal "on" the flasher goes bananas. I'm assuming this is line noise caused by the electric motor. When I change the flasher relay back to the mechanical (and change front amber bulbs back to incandescent to get draw) all works fine. Will a noise filter do the trick? Other thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/Noise-Filter-Engine-Suppressor-IBNF10/dp/B07RBBK6KK/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=12v+10+amp+noise+filter&qid=1612534243&sr=8-5

[FLPBFoot]

Bryan,

The dc motors likely have brushes and this is causing the HF noise. Not much detail on the filter your referenced. I suggest something cheap as a start. You should always put a capacitor across the motor terminals even if your circuit is not affected, because brush arcing creates rf noise that can interfere with other equipment (eg. AM radios). The usual recommendation is to install two 0.1uF ceramic capacitors, one connected from each motor terminal to the case. This 'grounds' the case to rf. The caps should be cheap and easy to install.

Steve

[FLPBFoot]

And another thought is to put a diode on the positive motor lead. This will also block unwanted RF from coming back out the positive lead.

[nuhale]

And another thought is to put a diode on the positive motor lead. This will also block unwanted RF from coming back out the positive lead.

I was wondering if a diode would do the trick. I’ll give this a try. Thanks Steve

[nuhale]

Goodbye Red Gel Coat... Another round of primer and should be ready for the Guardsman. Today I finally decided on adding the outer pinstripe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142119&d=1612640623

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142118&d=1612640616

[Jeff Kleiner]

Why isn’t it pink Bryan? ;)

Jeff

[nuhale]

Why isn’t it pink Bryan? ;)

Jeff

With no disrespect to all those pink car lovers out there... HELL NO.

[BadAsp427]

It's a BOY!!!

[JB in NOVA]

Love it! Can't wait to see the finished product.

[nuhale]

Things are starting to become the right shade of blue.. Body ready for guardsman tomorrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142419&d=1612989221

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142420&d=1612989232

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142421&d=1612989245

[BadAsp427]

That is looking fantastic. Excited to see it all finished up.

[KDubU]

Going to look awesome! Beautiful blue.

[cv2065]

Blue looks great! Excited to see the finished product!

[nuhale]

WOW. I love this color combo. 4 coats of guardsman, 3 white and 2 of high solids clear

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142443&d=1613076468

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142444&d=1613076475

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142445&d=1613076484

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142447&d=1613076504

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142448&d=1613076514

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142449&d=1613076525

[nuhale]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142451&d=1613076540

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142452&d=1613076559

[cnutting]

very nice!

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I love this color combo...

Like I told ya’, there’s a good reason that’s such a popular combination! It just works! :cool:

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Looks GREAT Brian... Can't wait to see it in person in a few weeks.

[BeePea]

This looks really good. I see this in my future as well.

[glastron351]

That looks great! Another great color choice....only problem with it is it's making me second guess my color choice...(for the 96th time)!

[RJD]

Classic!

[KDubU]

Like I told ya’, there’s a good reason that’s such a popular combination! It just works! :cool:

Jeff

Yup. Something those guys who paint theirs red don’t get ;). Going to run and hide now!

Great colour choices!

[nuhale]

Body back on.. Coming together! Coyote cover just resting on the engine and not snapped in which is why the cover is listed in the pic. It does list slightly PS.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143274&d=1614116314

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143275&d=1614116326

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143276&d=1614116336

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143277&d=1614116348

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143278&d=1614116361

[BadAsp427]

Wow!

[JB in NOVA]

Beautiful! Congrats.

[cv2065]

Looks awesome!!

[GoDadGo]

Freddie Said It Best:

https://youtu.be/k0AuipqPqsU

Won't Be Long Now!

[Al_C]

Looks good, Bryan!

[jiriza84641]

Looks great!

[FLPBFoot]

Looks great!!

Looking forward to seeing it all together this summer.

Steve

[nuhale]

Getting garage ready for the return of 7275. Should be back home in a couple weeks. Flying down to spotlight in Georgia 3/16 to inspect car. Hope the weather is nice so I can take her for a ride. The Chicago weather has been awful this year not to mention COVID so been feeling like a trapped animal. As this is early MKIV have the UCA that are prone to damage if not properly greased. I broke down and just bought the upgraded ones from FFR and got them ready to swap on the car once back. Had to shorten the back adjuster and threads to get the caster needed with power steering. Not a huge project but was a good feeling to be workin' on the car again in some capacity. Also got my custom engraved coil covers today from Ansen. They look awesome and will really complement the oval mod I did to the Gen2 cover. Can't wait to see it all together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143626&d=1614714545

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143625&d=1614714538

[nuhale]

Took a day trip down to Atlanta today to visit spotlight and inspect the car before she comes home via transport. Mike @ spotlight had a cover over it when I came in the shop so felt like I was on some TV show. Fun. I was stunned at the look when he pulled the cover off. Can't believe this is my car. As I was inspecting had a little issue with the stripe on the body below the trunk. Looked funny as it appeared to walk DS. Mike went to work and fixed the area right in front of me in just under 2 hours. Perfect now! Should be home in just a couple days... On the path to graduation!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144552&d=1615932905

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144553&d=1615932929

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144554&d=1615932944

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144555&d=1615932958

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144556&d=1615932977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144557&d=1615932990

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144558&d=1615933004

[RJD]

Gorgeous! Love that color. Congratulations.

[JB in NOVA]

Stunning! Is that Guardsman Blue, or some variation thereof? Congrats.

[BadAsp427]

I’m excited to see it myself tomorrow when I pick it up to bring it home to you. It looks fantastic!

[John Ibele]

Oh, man. You've got me rethinking my color combo. That's just handsome.

[nuhale]

Stunning! Is that Guardsman Blue, or some variation thereof? Congrats.

Guardsman & Wimbledon White

[David Hodgkins]

Outstanding!

You know it's funny. With so many people choosing any color besides this classic combo, when I'm out with a bunch of FFR friends this color combo is fairly rare.

And it's the best one, IMO. Then again I am a little biased!

Gorgeous. You will be happy with that color combo forever.

:)

[GoDadGo]

Guardsman & Wimbledon White


Nothing Wrong With Another Blue Cobra!
...........Truly An Iconic Classic!
...............Congratulations!

[KDubU]

I agree with David, this is a stunning combo. Congrats on getting her home, now go and enjoy her!

[cv2065]

Looks awesome dude! You are almost at the end of the road!

[hineas]

Absolutely beautiful.

[egchewy79]

looking good. almost time to start planning that graduation party!

[nuhale]

Looks awesome dude! You are almost at the end of the road!

Road just starting!

Very excited to have 7275 back. Santa Carl is about 2.5 hours out... big Chicago deep dish lunch waiting for him when he arrives. Will get to enjoy one day this weekend as we're supposed to see 65 on Sunday.

[Fman]

Beautiful! the classic blue and white is always a stunner. Congrats!:cool:

[FLPBFoot]

Road just starting!

Very excited to have 7275 back. Santa Carl is about 2.5 hours out... big Chicago deep dish lunch waiting for him when he arrives. Will get to enjoy one day this weekend as we're supposed to see 65 on Sunday.

And it rained last night and today so roads are salt free!! 9319 will be out on Sunday as well.

Steve

[jiriza84641]

yore gonna make it in time for Sunday when I test fit the body, bring her down on Sunday? Who needs plates!!!

[Blitzboy54]

So gorgeous, you must be so excited.

[nuhale]

Most of the finishing steps are done to graduate 7275. I'll wait for formal declaration of "graduation" once my punch list is done. Still have a couple items including fixing the trans mount, swapping for new UCA, getting brakes sorted out etc. Still marveling at the excellent paint job I got from Spotlight Customs. I'm extremely happy. Found a blemish on the top PS side of the trunk lid so that will need to be shipped back to Georgia to be addressed. Mike has been great in customer service and is going to take care of it.

Got out this past Sunday with Steve (ILPBFOOT) for an hour. Was nice to chase him around town for a little bit! Thanks for the cruise. We were talking about getting a more formal group together here in Northern Illinois/Southern Wisconsin for more scheduled cruises/cars & coffee events. There used to be a Windy City Cobra Club but appears to fizzled out. For all you Chicago area folks stay tuned....

Going to be out for the count for the next 6-8weeks with some minor surgery so back at it in May!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145027&d=1616522844

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145028&d=1616522857

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145029&d=1616522882

[FLPBFoot]

Most of the finishing steps are done to graduate 7275. I'll wait for formal declaration of "graduation" once my punch list is done. Still have a couple items including fixing the trans mount, swapping for new UCA, getting brakes sorted out etc. Still marveling at the excellent paint job I got from Spotlight Customs. I'm extremely happy. Found a blemish on the top PS side of the trunk lid so that will need to be shipped back to Georgia to be addressed. Mike has been great in customer service and is going to take care of it.

Got out this past Sunday with Steve (ILPBFOOT) for an hour. Was nice to chase him around town for a little bit! Thanks for the cruise. We were talking about getting a more formal group together here in Northern Illinois/Southern Wisconsin for more scheduled cruises/cars & coffee events. There used to be a Windy City Cobra Club but appears to fizzled out. For all you Chicago area folks stay tuned....

Going to be out for the count for the next 6-8weeks with some minor surgery so back at it in May!

Thanks Bryan - was great weather and good to cruise a bit. I love how that Guardsman changes color in the sun! Great choice! Heal fast!!

[Jryasko]

Nice guys, 9735 down here in Verona is getting closer to the painter. Hopefully around April 1, so this summer cruise is possible.

[NYMike]

Congratulations! It looks amazing and I love the color combo. Good luck with the surgery. I'm sure that beautiful car in your garage will get you back in action quickly.

[BrewCityCobra]

Wow, the paint looks great!

[TMartinLVNV]

Freaking fantastic! Really nice attention to detail in the engine bay too. :cool:

[nuhale]

Has anyone had trouble with the speedhut programming button? I've gone thru 2 of them already. First just went dead. I had a spare and worked fine prior to paint. Last weekends cruises had it autocycling thru the GPS LED features. Was annoying so I unplugged it at MPH. I was going to order a new one from Speedhut (not too expensive) but wondering why I'm having gremlins.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...but wondering why I'm having gremlins.

I've found that gremlins come standard with Speedhut. But they have great customer service (luckily ;) )!

Jeff

[nuhale]

Called speedhut and they are sending me "a couple". Topic closed.

[Hacksaw84]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144557&d=1615932990

What's that there in the background?

[nuhale]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144557&d=1615932990

What's that there in the background?

I hope you can answer that question yourself sir.... still have big brake envy. Those brembo rotors are killer.

[Al_C]

Going to be out for the count for the next 6-8weeks with some minor surgery so back at it in May!

Good luck with the surgery; look forward to cruising, too!

[BadAsp427]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144557&d=1615932990

What's that there in the background?

Well when I was there picking up the blue one, I assisted in removing that ugly pink body... Mike said something about making it look a lot better real soon.

[Hacksaw84]

Well when I was there picking up the blue one, I assisted in removing that ugly pink body... Mike said something about making it look a lot better real soon.

Appreciate the helping hand! But I thought this was a safe space... now we are body shaming? Hahaha!

[Hacksaw84]

I hope you can answer that question yourself sir.... still have big brake envy. Those brembo rotors are killer.

I would call it medium brakes or even small plus?
Yeah the rotors do look cool. I will keep you tuned in for that little side idea....

[nuhale]

I'm getting some more movement in my knee so trying to spend some more time in getting 7275 graduated. Couple items on the punch list to wrap up including brakes. Started with some brake envy after seeing Michaels build at Spotlight in GA when picking mine up. He has the "Cobra" big brakes with brembo rotors. Just cool looking. As I'm not ready to pull the trigger on another $500+ project I think I'll just give a pad change a go. This is where things got tricky. Have not a clue what rear setup I have so did some hunting around on the fourms to figure it out. Decided on Hawk HPS pads and ordered HB580F.627.... WRONG. These are the 88 Tbird pads and are larger than the pads I have... maybe should have checked before I opened the package (THESE ARE AVAIL FOR SALE :mad:). Round 2... Did some more digging and found the right profile from 99-04 rear mustang brakes. Ordered HB183F.660.... WRONG. The (660) designation is the thickness =.660" Caliper wont fit... They make a .585" version I found.. Ordered and they better fit! For future reference my pads are Hawk HB183F.585.

Working on some covers for the gap in the front of the rear wheel next. After this I'm pretty much done for now. Have some new seats that should give a few more inches of room but will hold off on that for a project down the road. Will have the UCA's swapped for the newer ones with alignment in a couple weeks once weather turns. I was planning on getting some new tires as the proxies 888's I have are 10+ years old. Still the plan but the Nitto 555G2's I want are backordered for who knows long. Won't be long now...

[nuhale]

Just finished most of the items on the punch list... dare I say that its done??? Swapped out the Wagner pads with HAWK HPS as listed in previous post. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I couldn't lock up the wagners if I had the pedal to the floor. These... no problem! I can feel the difference.

Well pictures to come but I afraid to say 7275 is DONE, GRADUATED!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152988&d=1630700788

[Blitzboy54]

Congratulations!!!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Attaboy Bryan! Congrats :cool:

Jeff

[Robodent]

Congrats. I’m sure it’s something to be very proud of. Hope this summer at some point I hope we can get together and I will be able to see it in person. Rob

[nuhale]

Well... spoke too soon....

Went out for 20min cruise and was smelling brakes something awful. Assumed was the new pads rubberizing. Got er' back in the garage and the front PS wheel was too hot to touch. Wheel coming off first thing tomorrow to assess issue/damage. Guessing its a stuck piston or caliper slides. Will figure it out.

[Al_C]

Look, you can graduate, or you can be done. Different items. You are graduated! Fact is, you will never be done. Good for you! Pat yourself on the back and thank your lucky stars (or something like that). Cory and Al are expecting you in McHenry, so you are "effectively" done. Celebrate the moment! Watch a Cubs game! (well, that might be painful...) Go stare at your car and admire it!

[cv2065]

Congrats! Looks great Bud!

[nuhale]

Look, you can graduate, or you can be done. Different items. You are graduated! Fact is, you will never be done. Good for you! Pat yourself on the back and thank your lucky stars (or something like that). Cory and Al are expecting you in McHenry, so you are "effectively" done. Celebrate the moment! Watch a Cubs game! (well, that might be painful...) Go stare at your car and admire it!

Thanks for the kind words al. I’m more than satisfied with outcome. Your right. Alsways soemthing else to do. Was the draw to this from the get go. And by the way... cubbies put up a 7 spot in 1st inning as I was finishing up. Good omen.

[zarnold]

Look, you can graduate, or you can be done. Different items. You are graduated! Fact is, you will never be done. Good for you! Pat yourself on the back and thank your lucky stars (or something like that). Cory and Al are expecting you in McHenry, so you are "effectively" done. Celebrate the moment! Watch a Cubs game! (well, that might be painful...) Go stare at your car and admire it!

Yes, definitely graduated! Congrats! Now for the fun stuff.

[jiriza84641]

Congrats Brian! Always something to do!

[BadAsp427]

Way to go Brian, Congratulations.

[nuhale]

Big Milestone!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147115&d=1619731399

Also got the Ultrashield Race seat (similar to kirkey low back) in today and was amazed how much more room my 6'-4" corn fed butt had. Sits back and lower and it's pretty darn comfy now.

[Al_C]

So here's a really tacky question: is your speedo a GPS unit? If so, you'd be getting "credit" for all those miles on a trailer between Chicago and Georgia... Or, did you actually drive them? :) ...just kidding!

[nuhale]

Picked up a Ultrashield cobra seat from Paul P. a few weeks back as roadster is a little tight (but manageable) with my 6'-4" 265lb frame. I mocked it up a few days ago to see what benefit this really can give and WOW, what an improvement. I can work pedals without angling my foot and knee against the tunnel.

I ordered a second to match which won't get until mid june but starting to figure out how to mount these. I felt pretty comfy with the seat mounted directly on the floor.

Q: How did you mount your Kirkeys or ultrashield alum buckets? Looking for some thought starters. With the low padding do you feel the bolt head? Any suggestions or experiences would be appreciated.

[Railroad]

So here's a really tacky question: is your speedo a GPS unit? If so, you'd be getting "credit" for all those miles on a trailer between Chicago and Georgia... Or, did you actually drive them? :) ...just kidding!
I do not think the GPS speedo logs anything with the key (power) off.
Now some hour/meters are vibration recording.

[nuhale]

Finally got into the local performance shop this morning to get tuned. I was going to go the Lund direction but quite honestly with their prices being hiked and the lack of personal interaction & dyno I opted for a local shop (DMark Performance). They were SIGNIFICANLY lower in cost and I'm pretty satisfied with the results. I was curious what a tune would bring this Gen2 beast as I thought it runs pretty good out of the crate. I noticed the difference immediately. Faster response on the lower RPM's. I did notice a slight drag, almost sluggish below 3K RPM before tune... GONE. Got a few pulls on the dyno. Hit 412hp @ 390 torque.

I was out cruising on Sunday and was in Wisconsin for a bit. Filled up and realized that the premium was only 91 octane and had no ethanol. Tuner said maybe causing a very slight dip in performance but admitted had never had a non ethanol situation before. Also said I could get a small bump in power if I went to a larger CAI. I just re-did mine getting rid of the spectre setup. Went with a 3.5 tube from air cleaner to throttle body. He recommended going to 4".. doesn't make sense to me as the throttle body opening is 3.5". I'll leave it alone for now... All in all happy with the numbers and the improvement of performance.

EDIT: I failed to mention I'm running a 3.27 rear end. Maybe get some stronger numbers if I go 3.55

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148913&d=1622575315

[Railroad]

Gears will not significantly change anything on your dyno sheet. 91 to 93 octane might pick up a few numbers. The ECU will adapt through sensors feeding it.
I agree 3.55 gears will be better suited. If you find a 3.73's in a rear, they will really wake up your ride.
Your numbers look good. What tuner did you buy?

[nuhale]

Gears will not significantly change anything on your dyno sheet. 91 to 93 octane might pick up a few numbers. The ECU will adapt through sensors feeding it.
I agree 3.55 gears will be better suited. If you find a 3.73's in a rear, they will really wake up your ride.
Your numbers look good. What tuner did you buy?

SCT x4 7015

[GTBradley]

I think you are right where you should be on hp. You got 11hp more than I did and it represents more bhp than Ford lists it at, which I attribute to the intake and long tube headers. Congratulations. I like the color.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...failed to mention I'm running a 3.27 rear end. Maybe get some stronger numbers if I go 3.55



From what I have read (and we all know that if it’s on the internet it is undisputedly true) when using an inertia type dyno like a Dynojet, etc. that sort of gear change will show a higher torque number and lower horsepower number. Of course the engine is producing exactly the same either way. It’s some sort of phenomenon that’s got something to do with how the time/speed calculation is done. Numbers aside I’m sure your butt dyno would feel more grunt—-especially if you went to 3.73 ;)

Jeff

[jiriza84641]

Finally got into the local performance shop this morning to get tuned. I was going to go the Lund direction but quite honestly with their prices being hiked and the lack of personal interaction & dyno I opted for a local shop (DMark Performance). They were SIGNIFICANLY lower in cost and I'm pretty satisfied with the results. I was curious what a tune would bring this Gen2 beast as I thought it runs pretty good out of the crate. I noticed the difference immediately. Faster response on the lower RPM's. I did notice a slight drag, almost sluggish below 3K RPM before tune... GONE. Got a few pulls on the dyno. Hit 412hp @ 390 torque.

I was out cruising on Sunday and was in Wisconsin for a bit. Filled up and realized that the premium was only 91 octane and had no ethanol. Tuner said maybe causing a very slight dip in performance but admitted had never had a non ethanol situation before. Also said I could get a small bump in power if I went to a larger CAI. I just re-did mine getting rid of the spectre setup. Went with a 3.5 tube from air cleaner to throttle body. He recommended going to 4".. doesn't make sense to me as the throttle body opening is 3.5". I'll leave it alone for now... All in all happy with the numbers and the improvement of performance.

EDIT: I failed to mention I'm running a 3.27 rear end. Maybe get some stronger numbers if I go 3.55

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148913&d=1622575315


Thats a great run Brian, I did an some tuning this past Monday while up by Sten place in Woodstock (some nice roads over there) pulled a WOT in 3rd gear at 112mph, lets say I need a booster seat or cushion cause it pushed me down into the seat. Need to do a couple more on Monday and hopefully LUND says the tune is complete.
They also adjusted the idle RPM from 920 to about 800 ( ill see is it can top down a little more), also indicated is was getting rich at the higher RPMs, and cut that down too.

[nuhale]

So of course a gremlin shows up right before London.... Looking for some ideas:

Up to a week ago my fuel gauge was working "ok". I ran out of gas on a quick drive which was the leading indicator... prob should have noticed that I had 1/4 tank of gas for some time.

ISSUE:

Fuel gauge appears to read ok when power on (no engine). When engine running fuel gauge jumps to Full. As I had access to fuel sender from replacing it I was checking some of the usual suspects. I checked the line feed and get a constant 4V from the fuel gauge with bother power on or engine on. Was looking for a voltage spike to sender indicating a possible bad gauge. I checked continuity at the ground (rear harness ground going back to the main feed behind dash). With just ignition I get good continuity. With engine on my meter stops beeping indicating continuity and gives an ohms reading. I grounded sender directly to chassis and it seems to show good result so this should suffice for the trip to London. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Need to start somewhere when I return and any thoughts from the group is appreciated.

Also a bit nervous about the root cause and it possibly causing a bigger issue.

NOTE: I have the old fuel gauge where set point at E and F is calibration. I did this and it was not the issue.

[Al_C]

how was the sender grounded previously? i.e. is the grounding to frame new or was it always that way?

[nuhale]

Sender was grounded thru rear harness leading up to the main harness that pigtails to all other grounds in Ron Francis harness. I cut that and directly grounded sender to chassis. Speedhut recommends that fuel gauge and sender share same ground wire. Guess it all comes together at the chassis to battery terminal (checking that too)

[BadAsp427]

Have you taken the sensor out of the tank and manually moved the float up and down? It's possible you have a problem with either the float falling off or the sender actually not working.

[nuhale]

Not the sender. That was checked. Another update on my “patch”. When I’m at idle it works. When I drive or increase rpm the sender moves to full. This is maddening. Only thing I can think of is alternator??

[edwardb]

As you're troubleshooting, keep in mind the sender is purely a variable resistor. If the kit supplied older Mustang variety, it's 145 ohms full, 22 ohms empty. Which you can read by probing with your ohms meter across the terminals while moving the float. Measuring voltage coming out of the sender is incorrect and won't help you solve anything. The circuity in the gauge reads the ohms from the sender and moves the needle accordingly.

As far as grounds, my standard practice is to add at least one additional ground at the rear harness. I just add it to the ground wire(s) that are in the rear harness. That gives at least one redundant ground in addition to the large single one by the fuse panel. Which I personally find a little inadequate and also a single point of failure. If both grounds are good, I wouldn't worry about the Speedhut recommendation for the gauge and sender being on the same ground wire. Keep in mind that's a generalized recommendation and they don't know you have an all steel one-piece welded chassis. With a solid ground connection to the frame from your battery, anywhere on the frame should be a good very solid ground connection.

[Al_C]

work around for this weekend: start full. meet at hinsdale oasis. fill yours when I fill mine.

[nuhale]

Great weekend in London! Was great to meet a lot of folks from this forum in person.

My issue was not resolved but went anyway just watching my odometer trip miles. No issues to report other than getting stuck in a rain storm on saturday that was crazy.

I got some good ideas about this from some folks (thanks Henry!) and guessing this a battery grounding issue. I have a 4ga wire off battery to frame. The connection is a 1/4-20 rivunt with the ground and the coyote PCB ground screwed down. Guessing this is nearly not enough with the engine running. My fuel gauge appears to work without engine running/low idle. Once I get driving the gauge jumps to "F".

Going to add another ground directly to frame on chassis engine mount where I have the engine ground strap. Hoping this will do the trick and all will be well. If not gonna just buy another gauge from Speedhut.

[BadAsp427]

Great weekend in London! Was great to meet a lot of folks from this forum in person.

My issue was not resolved but went anyway just watching my odometer trip miles. No issues to report other than getting stuck in a rain storm on saturday that was crazy.

I got some good ideas about this from some folks (thanks Henry!) and guessing this a battery grounding issue. I have a 4ga wire off battery to frame. The connection is a 1/4-20 rivunt with the ground and the coyote PCB ground screwed down. Guessing this is nearly not enough with the engine running. My fuel gauge appears to work without engine running/low idle. Once I get driving the gauge jumps to "F".

Going to add another ground directly to frame on chassis engine mount where I have the engine ground strap. Hoping this will do the trick and all will be well. If not gonna just buy another gauge from Speedhut.

So, just to be sure, you cleaned off the powder coating under the ground wires before you tightened everything down with that 1/4-20 bolt right???

[Jeff Kleiner]

Bryan,
As I suggested when we were looking at it the other day I’d gather all of your grounds together to the engine ground lug that you have on the engine mount pedestal. Stainless is a less than stellar conductor so the rivnut in the chassis tube that you currently have the battery and PDB screwed into may well be a weak link.

Good luck!

Jeff

[nuhale]

Update on my fuel gauge issue. After a consulting many of ya'll, several calls with speedhut, hours of investigation and process of elimination it turns out my darn gauge was the issue. Speedhut repaired it under warranty and upgraded it to the new electronics (had the old manual calibration only one). Popped the new one in, repaired/reassembled all the things I pulled apart and presto... works perfect. Yes, calibrated it to 7/8 tank for ohm match for sender.

Next time I run into an issue with one of the gauges (had my oil pressure sender go already) I'm looking directly at speedhut first.

[nuhale]

Covid has me bored again. Brakes have been an up a down thing with me. At first I had the 99 GT brakes FFR provides with the wagner quiet pads. Car did stop but even with my boost I could not lock the tires up. I upgraded to the HAWK HPS pads front and rear and this combo was more than sufficient for my needs. I drive it hard but only on street so not reporting any type of track performance. Guess I couldn't leave well enough alone as I decided to upgrade to the mustang "Cobra" big brake setup. Rockauto sells a 98 cobra setup from powerstop for a very decent cost which includes calipers, rotors and pads.

Picture of my 17" with the 10.5" GT FFR "Stock" brakes
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152978&d=1630698904

Rotor comparison between GT and COBRA:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152979&d=1630698904

Most of what I found new or refurbished did not have the "COBRA" embossing. I really liked this touch and preferred to go with new so I chose the power stop and put my laser engraver to work. Filled in the engraving with testors white enamel.

https://youtu.be/N22291nBd_s
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152980&d=1630698904

Overall really like the difference. Here's them before and after...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152986&d=1630699870
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152985&d=1630699769

Overall this is a easy upgrade. I'm sure many will find a big difference from the GT. I'm running a hydroboost so quite honestly going from the GT with Hawk HPS to these with Powerstop pads it is slightly reduced in performance. It's still pretty darn good so I'll stick with these pads. If I get another itch maybe upgrade to Hawks or EBC red stuff pads.

Credit to Michael Craven for providing months of brake envy...

[BadAsp427]

Very cool......

[Al_C]

Looks good! I'm impressed with the laser engraver, too.

[mcwho]

Do these big rotors work with 15" wheels, I am looking aat the Power Stop calipers, anyone think we need slotted and drilled rotors, may never do a track day.

[nuhale]

Do these big rotors work with 15" wheels, I am looking aat the Power Stop calipers, anyone think we need slotted and drilled rotors, may never do a track day.

To my knowledge, no. It's a tight fit with 17" wheels. I recommend you talk with Gordon Levy about best options on the 15" dishes.

[nuhale]

Driving in the Rain/FFR Rod Tops Premium Top Review:

I picked up a rod tops FFR premium top last winter from another builder that opted not to install. Was always back and forth with this decision but the right time/place came into effect so I pulled the trigger. I've not seen a ton of reviews on this so figured I would give some of my perspective now that I've used. I don't plan on driving in the rain/inclement weather if I can help it but getting stuck in the worst kind of rain while at LCS last year made me think having one better than not.

Install - Pretty straight forward. Mine turned out to be a little unique as my windshield was not the correct rake. When I went to correct I found why. The hole in the DS body for windshield upright was cut way too large. Painter had the windshield set to hide the hole. I machined some new escutcheon plates that extended to cover the hole. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN INSTALLING THE RECIEVERS behind the doors. I had a bonehead move and overtightened cracking my clearcoat. Back to my local painter to fix this July. Other than this was pretty simple.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168089&d=1655144462

Use- I read some feedback about the rubber seal on rear bow that meets the body can cause some damage to clear. Just a 5min test drive created some rash I had to buff out. Another builder gave me great solution. Put down a strip of painters tape as intermediate between rear bow and body. I now keep a roll of black 3" and 1/4" strip. I use the 1/4" to create a guide then lay down the 3". Works perfectly and with black you barely notice. I was moving fast before my first rain trial run and the rear bow came apart and fell hitting the body behind the PS door leaving small gash in paint... again back to the paint shop. :(. Need to be more careful I guess. The side windows are a bit of a pain but manageable once you figure out how to get them on/off both in and out of car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168088&d=1655144138

Overall- Was in a pretty good rain for the first trial run. Over an hour of good downpour and was at various speeds (both highway and city). I was fairly impressed at how well this top worked. I expected more water getting in. I had a few leaks where water was getting in between the DS windshield upright and windshield itself. Also had some drips top middle of shield. I had already done some work to seal the uprights trough body with 3M strip caulk and weather stripping in doors. No leaks there which was great. Getting in and out is a challenge as I'm a big guy (6'4"/270lbs). A little bit of Tetris and I figured it out. Overall nice top and I'm very happy with the performance.