Top of the doors are protruding away from the cab

[sperger72]

122018

Anybody else have this issue were the top part of the door is out past the cab when closed? How did you solve it?


Zach

[rponfick]

I have just the opposite, too far in at top. But I am not through trying to adjust the doors yet. Hoping the they go into alignment while I sit on a lawn chair and look at them.
Ralph

[FF33rod]

If it's just "twisted" and not being held out there by some interference, then the way this is resolved on the hot rod is to first line up and fix in place the hinge side of the door. Then, on the latch end, using shims (washers) on the 2 bolts that attach the latch assembly to the inner door frame you can twist that end of the door to achieve the orientation you need. You may know that already and it may not help on the truck as it's more complicated with the window frame but that's what most seem to do on the '33.

Steve

[sperger72]

Steve,

It seems the rest of the door is in place but the top needs to heated and pushed into the cab further.

[Furrman]

Steve,

It seems the rest of the door is in place but the top needs to heated and pushed into the cab further.

Heating ? Does that work ? I've got about 40hrs. into my doors, and everything lines up, except the top rear corners. I was planning on shimming it with weather strip. I have never heard of heat.

[FF33rod]

Steve,

It seems the rest of the door is in place but the top needs to heated and pushed into the cab further.

Good fun. I tried some heat on my hood at the request of Tony @ FFR but it didn't seem to do much - suspect it's much better to have it out in the sun and heating up the whole part (warm sun is not an option here at this time of year). What have FFR said about it so far. They're usually pretty good at giving ideas to try.

Steve

[sperger72]

I had a body man come over and say that the doors were warped and needed to be heated and set in place or new doors. Seems extreme. Wanted to see if others had the issue and how they fixed it. Steve above had some ideas but I have tried about all of them already. Heat seems like it could scre122054w the doors up badly.

[Furrman]

Heating ? Does that work ? I've got about 40hrs. into my doors, and everything lines up, except the top rear corners. I was planning on shimming it with weather strip. I have never heard of heat.

I meant to say that my top rear corners are "IN" too far. I think I can shim it, and park it in the sun?

[sperger72]

Okay talked with FFR and they said loosen the two bolts on the crash bar in the door and twist the door to get the gap to close. I also had a little more adjustment in the top hinge. Did not think I did but it was enough like Steve said. Thanks yall.

Zach

[FLFrank35]

This thread looks like it's a year old, but I'm dealing with it now...I have the hinges, front edge, and most of the top and bottom perfect but the top rear corner is in too far and the bottom rear corner is out too far. Both sides are the same.

Anyone have any updated ideas? I will play with shims and heat in the mean time.

Thanks.

[Pat Landymore]

I’m still struggling with the bottom rear corner on the passenger side sticking out 3/4” a year later. Thankfully my build is more of a rat Rod style so it’s sort of ok for now. Will figure it out eventually!

[FLFrank35]

I finally got it! I read the post from sperger72 (#9, above) and fiddled with the crash bar. I loosen the 2 bolts and shoved in a shim at the top, across the top of the 2 bolts. Actually, for a shim I used the 2 left-over pieces from cutting the external handle shaft. They're about 1/4" thick, but I tightened the bolts and bingo!...the door is (twisted/untwisted?) practically perfect all the way around.

In the future I will be replacing the shims with a better/permanent solution, but it seems to have gotten the door into the shape to fit flush. If anyone has a more ideal shim, or other idea, I'm all ears but this seems to work for now and gets me in the right direction.

[Pat Landymore]

As for shims I may have a decent solution.
This one is a 4 degree that will be between 1/4-3/8” thick at the thickest point. They make them up to 6 degrees if someone needs more twist, and I believe the bolt slot in the middle is 1/2”.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clv-4-degree?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIorzhoeq37gIVDSCtBh3-ywlqEAQYASABEgIKd_D_BwE

141413

[FLFrank35]

As for shims I may have a decent solution.
This one is a 4 degree that will be between 1/4-3/8” thick at the thickest point. They make them up to 6 degrees if someone needs more twist, and I believe the bolt slot in the middle is 1/2”.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clv-4-degree?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIorzhoeq37gIVDSCtBh3-ywlqEAQYASABEgIKd_D_BwE

141413

Looks promising! I'll give it a try. Have you used these?
Thanks for the suggestion and the link!

[VIRGIN MIKE]

My passenger door was (is) proud at bottom rear; twisted and clamped it into position about three month ago - it springs back out of position when clamps released (drivers door fits fine.) Going to remove cab from frame to do interior work, then we will try again.

[Pat Landymore]

FLFrank35:
I haven’t tried these on my truck yet, but have used them for their intended purpose plus one or two other weird purposes through the course of my work life. Each time I was happy with them.

VirginMike:
My situation was so poor that FFR actually agreed to send me a replacement passenger side door. Haven’t been able or willing to embark on that journey (again) just yet... When I do I will throw the manual away and take a completely different approach to fitting it.

Cheers!
Pat

[FLFrank35]

:D LOL
Good luck guys. Keep me updated.
Thanks

[rponfick]

I won't say the doors were the main reason I just sold my truck, but they sure entered into the equation.
Ralph

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Sure interested in hearing how it turns out - especially how far you get into it before you see a difference and what is the difference
(I'll be working on mine tomorrow....with the garage door open)