Coupe windshield---temporary install???

[Jeff Kleiner]

I just talked with a builder who plans to bring his Gen3 to me sometime in the future for body & paint and has concerns about how to address the windshield while he runs in gelcoat to shake it down, with his plan being to remove it when the time comes for body prep and paint . He has spoken to different people about two scenarios and has gotten the following:

Scenario #1:
Install the windshield temporarily using good gaffers or Gorilla tape around the entire perimeter. The person he initially spoke to about this said that the internal air pressure at speed will blow the glass out. I ain't seeing it---even if the pressure is that great have you ever tried to remove that stuff? I'm thinking the bond would be every bit as robust as the adhesive used for the permanent installation.

Scenario #2:
Install it as if it was permanent then remove it for paint. The glass installer he spoke with said it would not be able to be removed without breaking it. I'm not a glass guy so I don't know---seems like they should be able to cut the adhesive just the same as if it was being replaced due to a rock chip without having to destroy it. That's been the case when I've had to have windshields replaced in my own cars and trucks. I can understand the risk of breakage, maybe even a 50/50 shot but he was led to believe that it could not be removed without destroying it.

Who else has been down this road and what have your experiences been?

Jeff

[JOE A]

Maybe not a direct correlation to what your situation is but I open trailered my coupe from south Florida to Greensboro S.C. (1100 miles) at 70-75 MPH with the windshield duct taped. Rear hatch and side windows received the same treatment with no issues.

[Bob-STL]

I used red duct tape all around the perimeter.

No problems at speeds up to 100.

Was able to take it out multiple times.

Bob

[edwardb]

Going through the windshield installation right now on mine, so know enough just to be dangerous. I agree it could be taped in with the right tape and no go anywhere as long as it's sitting down in the opening. Only caution is to check the fit. Mine needs to pull down 1/4-inch or so on the ends to fit the opening. The pros that are helping don't think it's an issue. But I've heard of some being a lot more than that, and tape maybe not hold it deep enough in the opening? Don't know, just something to check. As far as option 2, absolutely it can be removed without breaking it. Most glass installers have this trick wire spool thingy (technical term) that goes around between the glass and the pinch weld and cuts the adhesive. Then lift the whole windshield out.

[David Williamson]

I drove mine with the windshield held in with duct tape with no issues. It was high strengh stuff only on the sides and I did highway speeds.
David W

[65 Cobra Dude]

Another option is to use the butyl rubber to hold it down. It never gets hard and can be removed with a razor blade. That’s what I did until I did the final install.

Henry

[mmoen]

Gorilla tape and Lowe’s weather stripping for my first 2 k miles. No issues.
Moen

[John Dol]

Since I probably hold the record for most miles without being finished I can say that I have used blue, gray and red duct tape and they all worked as well as the other to hold the windshield in place on a trailer at high way speeds.

John

[GThompson]

I made a temporary polycarbonate (1/8” thick) windshield and attached it with small screws. It’s not sealed but it worked great for autocross, and it looked great with the Factory Five Racing vinyl sticker across the top ��. After all of the gokarting and dialing-in is complete, I can just fill the holes with body-filler before priming.

[ram_g]

Folks, I am researching a 65 Coupe as possibly my next car project and this thread addresses exactly one of the questions that I had. For my Mk3.1 Roadster I did all the initial body fitting (incl. windshield and doors) and drove it around for a year before taking it in for paint. I would like to do a similar thing with the Daytona.

Instead of temporarily fitting the windshield and removing it for paint, could one option be to sand and finish the portion of the windshield frame that would be covered by the glass, in some sort of matte or satin black finish, and then permanently glue the glass in, and then have the painter paint the rest of the car including the remainder of the windshield frame by simply masking off the glass? This would be similar to a production car being re-sprayed. Is this not possible, or what am I missing? Has anybody actually done this?

Thanks!

Ram

[edwardb]

Folks, I am researching a 65 Coupe as possibly my next car project and this thread addresses exactly one of the questions that I had. For my Mk3.1 Roadster I did all the initial body fitting (incl. windshield and doors) and drove it around for a year before taking it in for paint. I would like to do a similar thing with the Daytona.

Instead of temporarily fitting the windshield and removing it for paint, could one option be to sand and finish the portion of the windshield frame that would be covered by the glass, in some sort of matte or satin black finish, and then permanently glue the glass in, and then have the painter paint the rest of the car including the remainder of the windshield frame by simply masking off the glass? This would be similar to a production car being re-sprayed. Is this not possible, or what am I missing? Has anybody actually done this?

Thanks!

Ram

Four comments about your idea:

1. That approach would require painting "body on." I don't see any way the body could be removed with the windshield bonded in place that didn't either a) break the windshield, or b) break the adhesive bond. Based on strength of the urethane, my bet would be on a. Maybe you're already planning to paint it that way. My shop did. But many don't.

2. With the frit (black border) on the windshield most of the body lip is covered. So while you could paint the underlying border, most of it wouldn't be seen. However, there is a lip on the bottom that extends backwards from the windshield. Above the dash. Typically painted in body color. But in your scenario, could be painted in matte or satin black as you suggested. As long as it's done well, probably would be OK. But it would be visible. You can see in the picture below.

3. The other thing that occurs to me is whether you are planning to put molding around the windshield or not. Have seen guys do it both ways. I chose to use it and I'm happy with how it turned out. Initially I wasn't planning on using it. But I found the fit of the windshield to be a bit irregular, and I decided it would look better with the molding. Having that in place during finishing and paint would be difficult I think.

4. None of us wants to throw away money, but the windshield isn't super expensive. Per Factory Five, is from a 1986 Jaguar XJS. Available through normal commercial channels. Unlike the Roadster windshields or the Coupe back glass. So worst case could be replaced if it should get broken during your interim. Maybe consider that before jumping through hoops or making compromises trying to save it. I'm sure your painter would thank you for the windshield not being there when the time comes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129066&d=1590539570

[ram_g]

Perfect response, thanks Paul!

Yes, I had assumed that the paint would be done "body on". But I will need to check that with one or more candidate painters. I need to check if the Houston-based guy I used 5 years ago for my Roadster is still in business and if he would do a Daytona, and/or check for other painters in the Houston area, and/or check the cost of shipping the car back and forth to Levy or Batman. I'll ask them all this question of body on or body off for the Daytona.

BTW I think that strip above the dash/below the windshield would look great in matte black...not that it looks bad in body color!

[Tuftster]

Old thread but thought I would add my experience with a temp windshield install. I've got about 2k miles on my coupe in gelcoat with the windshield duct taped in place with no issues. Recently I unfortunately had an accident trying to avoid a car that quickly pulled out of a blind driveway into a busy street. I avoided the car but spun 360 over a low (sidewalk height) center median including hitting a street sign sideways just in front of the driver's front wheel. Result was 3 destroyed wheels, steering rack, some decent fiberglass damage but the windshield didn't budge a millimeter. I'm pretty confident this is a viable option for anyone needing a temporary solution.

[jamminj]

sorry to here about that
but amazing the windshield stayed in

[JohnMac]

I just talked with a builder who plans to bring his Gen3 to me sometime in the future for body & paint and has concerns about how to address the windshield while he runs in gelcoat to shake it down, with his plan being to remove it when the time comes for body prep and paint . He has spoken to different people about two scenarios and has gotten the following:

Scenario #1:
Install the windshield temporarily using good gaffers or Gorilla tape around the entire perimeter. The person he initially spoke to about this said that the internal air pressure at speed will blow the glass out. I ain't seeing it---even if the pressure is that great have you ever tried to remove that stuff? I'm thinking the bond would be every bit as robust as the adhesive used for the permanent installation.

Scenario #2:
Install it as if it was permanent then remove it for paint. The glass installer he spoke with said it would not be able to be removed without breaking it. I'm not a glass guy so I don't know---seems like they should be able to cut the adhesive just the same as if it was being replaced due to a rock chip without having to destroy it. That's been the case when I've had to have windshields replaced in my own cars and trucks. I can understand the risk of breakage, maybe even a 50/50 shot but he was led to believe that it could not be removed without destroying it.

Who else has been down this road and what have your experiences been?

Jeff

We decided to not permanently mount (glue it) the windshield but use clips to hold it in place. We used 1” wide foam rubber material on the body and 1” wide aluminum strap material. I drilled 1/8” holes at the upper corners and lower corners and attached the clips with ss button head screws and elastic stop nuts on the inside. We’re not looking for a perfect car. We’ve had the car up to around 100mph with no problems or rattles. The windshield has enough give that it fits perfectly and can be removed in about 5 mins. If and when we decide to permanently mount it, the small holes can be filled.
Email me for photos- abarth1202@icloud.com.
Mac Morgan