Thermostat Housing

[John Ibele]

I'm working to stay ahead of my engine builder, and have started doing some digging into thermostat housing options. I can find some information doing a search but not much, so I figured I'd just ask.

My configuration and requirements:

Dart 347
Power steering
Serpentine belt
Vintage Air heater
Edelbrock reverse rotation water pump
DS alternator mounted w Breeze bracket
PS power steering pump w Breeze bracket


I know I can use a 90 deg housing and then the T setup that comes with the kit, but I also know that a number of folks have used the Cobra Earl / TDMotion thermostat housing with great results.

My questions:

What's the main benefit of spending the additional $$ for the Cobra Earl / TDM housing? Avoiding trapped air? Improved engine compartment layout?
I believe I'll have the serpentine belt going straight across from alternator to PS pump. Are there an interference issues for radiator hose I should think about?
I will be using Sniper EFI, so will have the option of having the Sniper turn the fan on rather than the thermostat ... I'm assuming that's compatible with whatever thermostat housing I use.


Thanks in advance for the help!

-- John

[rich grsc]

I guess I'm frugal (cheap), but I don't see any advantage to spending a bunch extra for a thermostat housing on a basic setup like yours. Are you sure your power steering is on the passenger side, and the alternator on the driver side?

[boat737]

With the exception of the alternator and PS pump on different sides, it sounds like we have very similar setups.
I have the TD Motion T-stat housing. I couldn't live without it. OK, I exaggerate. But I don't like the way the T housing just sit's up and kind of dangles and flops around between the engine and the radiator. I like the way it looks as well. It's rock solid. I had to have it.

[Avalanche325]

Where I suggest you spend you money is on Boig or Breeze pipes for the radiator and ditch the flex hoses.

Maybe I misunderstood what you wrote. But the thermostat has nothing to do with fan control.

[John Ibele]

Helpful input, thanks gang. Looks more like a 'wanna have' rather than a must have. But - Dan, I get it. It does look nice. I might still cave :rolleyes:.

Avalanche325 ... yeah, what I wrote didn't make sense because I apparently don't know how an engine works. Not quite true but its time to go back and read Auto Design Fundamentals from cover to cover again. Or just hack away on the engine choices, install, first start ... and get smarter that way. Sounds like more fun, to be honest!

Shot from a lunchtime visit today. Intake manifold is just resting on top for now, same with the cobra water pump pulley. Once we have everything set up I'll take most of the bracket components and the water pump pulley to get powder coated black.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49451196951_ab8ca68ecc_b.jpg

[CDXXVII]

Here is an option with the T filler and some silicone hose elbows. Keeps the cost down and looks clean.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121479&d=1580182509

[CraigS]

I don't know specifically about the housing you mention but an advantage of some housings is that they have an extra threaded hole for a temp sensor. You may not need it if your efi controls the fan but file for reference later.

[chuckster]

I have a cobra Earl thermostat housing that I mounted but never used it is as new if you’re interested PM me I will sell at a substantial discount. $315 shipped, vs. $372 shipped from TDmotion.

121547
121548
121549
121550

[rich grsc]

I have to ask, why put the PS pump on the passenger side? Now you have to run hoses across the engine to reach the steering rack.

[Avalanche325]

I have to ask, why put the PS pump on the passenger side? Now you have to run hoses across the engine to reach the steering rack.

I'll 2nd that. You now have yourself in an unusual setup for power steering. You won't be able to buy off the shelf hoses. You may also get yourself in a jam on the wiring harness, which assumes the alternator is on the other side.

While we're picking on you. Unless it is just for the picture, tape up the openings on your engine.

[chuckster]

Photos added

[FF33rod]

For what it's worth, on my 347 I tried a 90 degree thermostat housing that had one of the hard rubber seals that fit in a groove in the housing. It was impossible to get a proper seal - the rubber was far too hard to conform properly. So my recommendation is whichever housing you pick, make sure it uses a "paper" style gasket. JMO Steve

[rich grsc]

For what it's worth, on my 347 I tried a 90 degree thermostat housing that had one of the hard rubber seals that fit in a groove in the housing. It was impossible to get a proper seal - the rubber was far too hard to conform properly. So my recommendation is whichever housing you pick, make sure it uses a "paper" style gasket. JMO Steve

Throw out all gaskets, use RTV.

[Avalanche325]

Throw out all gaskets, use RTV.

Except for head gaskets of course. LOL! I just redid a header last week. It still seems weird not using gaskets. But it works.

The problem with o-ring t-stat housings is usually that are are not made well. Especially chrome ones for some bizarre reason.

[frankeeski]

$12 t-stat housing/water outlet from O'reilly's

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121567&d=1580261260

And an equally over-priced $15 upper hose for a 1987-93 Mustang cut into 2 sections.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121566&d=1580261240

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121565&d=1580261218

I swear, if I had some of your guy's money I'd throw all mine away.

[John Ibele]

Wow, tons of good feedback.

Rich, Frank --- you can rest easy. I got the $60 Ford part.

Chuckster, Dan --- take heart, I still lust for that piece of car jewelry and may cave later.

Nice look with the T connector, that's one of the cleanest I've seen. I'm headed for something close to that now.

As for the engine ... not feeling picked on :rolleyes:, that's pretty tough to do. In this case the builder was physically working on it when I took the shot. If you look closely you can see the intake manifold is actually just resting on the top. Whenever I head over its wrapped well in plastic whenever he's not working on it, even if he's just breaking for lunch. Shop is always, always clean. My parts are always stored in an organized fashion on the shelf. Plus, a nice guy with a great reputation. I'm in good hands.

The bigger puzzle is why the power steering pump on the PS side, so I just have to go across to get to the rack. I wish I had a good answer. I was directed that way by an established vendor, so we'll talk and either I'll be enlightened or he will (or both). Going back and looking at photos its clear the vast majority aren't set up this way. And I don't like the sound of something like 3 things being non-standard for no good reason. Something new to puzzle over.

Thanks, Guys!

[rich grsc]

$12 t-stat housing/water outlet from O'reilly's

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121567&d=1580261260

And an equally over-priced $15 upper hose for a 1987-93 Mustang cut into 2 sections.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121566&d=1580261240

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121565&d=1580261218

I swear, if I had some of your guy's money I'd throw all mine away.

Frank, how dare you spend money so foolishly..:rolleyes:

[frankeeski]

Frank, how dare you spend money so foolishly..:rolleyes:

I know right?

[KenWilkinson]

Here is an option with the T filler and some silicone hose elbows. Keeps the cost down and looks clean.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121479&d=1580182509

Part numbers please? Source?

~KEn

[rich grsc]

Summit racing will have all you need, or check Breeze's site.

[CDXXVII]

The only hard part to find was the stainless tube. Everything else is just silicone elbows, t clamps, Ford T housing, FFR filler.

Here is the tube. http://www.allpurposepipes.com/1.5-inch-pipes/stainless-steel-1.5-inch-pipes/stainless-steel-pipe-p-829.html



Part numbers please? Source?

~KEn

[John Ibele]

I'll 2nd that. You now have yourself in an unusual setup for power steering. You won't be able to buy off the shelf hoses. You may also get yourself in a jam on the wiring harness, which assumes the alternator is on the other side.

While we're picking on you. Unless it is just for the picture, tape up the openings on your engine.


... 3 days later, everything I said about the builder is true. And its his responsibility until it comes off the dyno...

But still. That gaping hole for the distributor, ready to gulp down a nut or anything else passing by. Makes me want to go over and cover it with tape myself. Thanks for bringing it up :p

[Mark Reynolds]

As they say, "Don't let'm get to ya" John!
Since you don't have the alternator on the passenger side, there is no turnbuckle the way, which allows you to use what I will call a 30 degree thermostat housing. Your advisers above will be happy to see how inexpensive they are. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,9021001,thermostat+housing+/+water+outlet,10337
Also there is nothing to get in the way of your bypass hose and heater hose ports on the water pump.
The reason Breeze came out with a driver side alternator bracket many moons ago was it was the available space when passenger side mounted Vortech Centrifugal Superchargers were so common on 5 Liter Mustangs. Once we had that figured out, and people started requesting power steering, we naturally made a bracket for the passenger side. It is low so the remote reservoir can be easily plumbed to gravity feed back to the pump. Not to worry we have nice braided stainless teflon lined high pressure 06AN hose to easily plumb your system, regardless of what side of the engine the pump is mounted on. I would never recommend installing an OEM hose because they are application specific and if you can get them to work they typically look like doo-doo.
In the Mustang at least, the driver side alternator location allows you to remove about 6 feet of alternator charge cable and exciter wire. I'm not sure where the Ron Francis harness expects the alternator to be is set up but you will not be in any kind of jam wiring the alternator on the driver side.
That said, if someone already has their alternator mounted on the passenger side Breeze does make a driver side power steering pump bracket for the GM style pump with integral reservoir. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/driver-side-power-steering-pump-bracket-kit/
Hope that helps!
Mark Reynolds

[John Ibele]

Thanks for chiming in, Mark! I’m skiing this week, no one can get to me :D Otherwise I’d have gotten back to you earlier.

Your response makes sense (other than a vendor pushing a $4 Rock Auto part on me ... sheesh :rolleyes:). I’ll verify the wiring harness will take the alternator on the driver’s side but other than that I should be set. Thanks.