I gotta vent. AAAARRRRRGGGGGG!!!!

[opie.boodalatski]

So, I'm putting on the front brake flex lines. It's all going well but the banjo bolt is not going in smoothly. I can only get in in maybe a turn or two.

I know, I'll clean out the threads!! I carefully check the thread size of the banjo bolt, it's M10x1.5, pull out an appropriate tap and "wham bam." Goes pretty easy.

Now comes the "put my head through the sheet rock" part.

The manual says ...blah...blah...blah...torque the banjo bolt to 29 lb-ft.

And it strips right out.

So the front banjo bolts are M10x1.0, but the rears are M10x1.5 and I got them mixed up. @#$!%&*

So now I gotta take off the calipers and do a Helicoil job on them, which means I'm gonna have to take them completely apart to get the chips out (probably should have done that when I cleaned out the threads.)

Sometimes I feel so effing stupid.

Bob

[CFranks]

Frustrating I’m sure. Do you have wilwoods or the standard PBR’s? If the standard, may be worth just buying new ones from the parts store, when you factor in your core refund they don’t cost much. If they’re wilwoods, then ignore me!

[Al_C]

Bob - I feel your pain. Such is the lot of the car builder. You will find out (if you didn't already know this) that you will hit the wall frequently. Many of us believe that we have built multiple cars on the same frame... It's all part of the experience. Go get 'em tiger!

[cv2065]

Guessing you have the mustang calipers? Just go buy a new set at the local auto store. $40 and you're in business. The manual is wrong on that torque spec. Snapped 2 myself. Just lightly snug up the bleeder screw and then slowly tighten as needed when testing for leaks.

[TMartinLVNV]

Step away from the car. Exit the garage. Re enter after you have composed yourself. We all have been there. I love the mix of 75% SAE and 25% metric fasteners.

[BradCraig]

I'm really surprised they have a torque spec on those. Snug them up good and if they leak give em a little more! I wish I had a fraction of the money back from crap i've broken! :-)

[GoDadGo]

Step away from the car. Exit the garage. Re enter after you have composed yourself. We all have been there. I love the mix of 75% SAE and 25% metric fasteners.

Excellent Advice Which Comes In Very Useful Before You Start Throwing Tools!

You'll have setbacks and steps forward so hang in there.

Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!

[Cruzzz]

Almost did the same thing when installing mine. Turned out the banjo bolts for the front were with the lines for the rear and vice versa. You should be able to screw these in by hand then snug them up with a wrench. If they don’t screw in by hand you have the wrong ones. Second just buying a new caliper.

[egchewy79]

when you get it all sorted out, I wouldn't snug down the banjo bolts until you verify that there's no interference between the flex line going to the calipers and the tires. I found that my flex line rubbed on one side when fully turned and I needed to adjust the angle at which the flex line entered the caliper. The copper crush washers above and below your banjo bolt are one time use so I wouldn't tighten them down until you check for clearance.

[TMartinLVNV]

Excellent Advice Which Comes In Very Useful Before You Start Throwing Tools!

You'll have setbacks and steps forward so hang in there.

Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!

Not much of a thrower of tools. I find a dead blow hammer beating on a 4x4 piece of wood is quite satisfying and a release of tension :D

Golf clubs have been thrown however :rolleyes:

[GoDadGo]

Not much of a thrower of tools. I find a dead blow hammer beating on a 4x4 piece of wood is quite satisfying and a release of tension :D

Golf clubs have been thrown however :rolleyes:

We've got an 80 lbs hanging punching bag in the shop since neither Baby Go-Dad nor I play golf.

[opie.boodalatski]

So, I'm putting on the front brake flex lines. It's all going well but the banjo bolt is not going in smoothly. I can only get in in maybe a turn or two.

I know, I'll clean out the threads!! I carefully check the thread size of the banjo bolt, it's M10x1.5, pull out an appropriate tap and "wham bam." Goes pretty easy.

Now comes the "put my head through the sheet rock" part.

The manual says ...blah...blah...blah...torque the banjo bolt to 29 lb-ft.

And it strips right out.

So the front banjo bolts are M10x1.0, but the rears are M10x1.5 and I got them mixed up. @#$!%&*

So now I gotta take off the calipers and do a Helicoil job on them, which means I'm gonna have to take them completely apart to get the chips out (probably should have done that when I cleaned out the threads.)

Sometimes I feel so effing stupid.

Bob


Thanks y'all.

BTW how do you keep the banjo fitting from turning while tightening the banjo bolt?

Bob

[FFinisher]

Thanks y'all.

BTW how do you keep the banjo fitting from turning while tightening the banjo bolt?

Bob

If you need a set of calipers I have a set of standard ones you can have for the cost of shipping. Assuming you are in the continental US. Just PM me.


IF they are Wilwoods, you are on your own. :-)

[TMartinLVNV]

Thanks y'all.

BTW how do you keep the banjo fitting from turning while tightening the banjo bolt?

Bob

I'm sure there is a tool out there for this. A lot of OEM calipers will have little ears around the fitting for the banjo bolt to trap it and keep it from turning.

I barely hand tighten everything down just where I want it. Then turn the banjo counter clockwise about 45 degrees. Then tighten the bolt to "snug". If you clocked it correctly, the banjo will turn with the bolt and end up in the right spot when you reach "snug". It will take a few attempts.

[lance corsi]

When you look at a banjo bolt, it’s amazing that they take any abuse at all. Does anyone have a preference between aluminum crush washers vs copper?

[TMartinLVNV]

When you look at a banjo bolt, it’s amazing that they take any abuse at all. Does anyone have a preference between aluminum crush washers vs copper?
Copper is what I have used in all of the brake jobs with caliper replacement that I have done. I have not seen aluminum on banjos.

[lance corsi]

McMaster Carr sells them. I haven’t experienced a problem with them. I will, however be using the copper ones that came with my brake lines. I have had to anneal the copper washers in order to make them soft enough to seal.

[E-Car Man]

I've always used copper and only use once. They only take a small amount of "crush" before they get "work hardened".

[DadofThree]

As others have said, sometimes you need to walk away for a bit of time until you cool off and are ready to approach it again.

BTW, my car's name is PETE because I've had to REPEAT several (most) parts of the build at least two to three times. Press on Bob. You can get through it.

[flynntuna]

I find that this helps:rolleyes: