Throttle pedal and cable recommendation ??

[2SheaMotorsports]

Hey guys.

Currently building a mk4 roadster. What throttle pedal and linkage / cable are you guys using??
I’m building a “Canadian” model MK4 which is basically the most stripped down bare bones version you can buy I think. Just struggling with some items as my instruction manual doesn’t seem to match some of the items I have for the car or am missing etc.

I checked out the parts site and FFR offers a pedal. But currently shows no stock. I’ll call them to verify.
I was thinking of using a Lokar pedal, their “competition series” as it’s slim for good foot room. I’d use one of their throttle cables too as I don’t have a cable with this kit either apparently.

I have a few questions about the wilwood pedal box too but I guess I’ll start a different thread about that.

Thanks for any insight! 👍
Chris.

[Boydster]

Russ's throttle pedal and mount and Fortes mechanical throttle. Work great together and zero complaints.

[Blue Viking]

Russ's throttle pedal and mount and Fortes mechanical throttle. Work great together and zero complaints.

I have the mechanical linkage from Mike, planning to use it with the FFR supplied pedal. What is the advantage with the pedal from Russ Thompson?

[CraigS]

To me the biggest advantage of Russ's pedal is that it mounts to a 3/4x3/4 tube in a manner where you can loosen the bolts and slide it along that tube. That will move it closer or further from the driver. One more way you can customize your FFR to fit you exactly.

[cv2065]

I hooked both of the pedals up during install. Russ's pedal naturally mates up with Forte's mechanical linkage a little easier. Also matches my clutch and brake pedal design.

[jrcuz]

I'm using Russ's pedal and mechanical linkage made from parts used by edwardB listed in his 20th anniv build thread. One thing I would do from the start is drill and pin all parts that can slip secured. I'll have to disassemble mine and drill and pin those parts on mine. I understand that Mike Forte's mechanical linkage is drilled and pinable.
JR

[davekp]

To me the biggest advantage of Russ's pedal is that it mounts to a 3/4x3/4 tube in a manner where you can loosen the bolts and slide it along that tube. That will move it closer or further from the driver. One more way you can customize your FFR to fit you exactly.

Yes. You can locate the accelerator pedal for best heel and toe operation.
I made a mechanical linkage set-up
for about $30. It would be relatively easy to do during a build. I did mine on a complete car so it was more difficult, but worked out well.

[2SheaMotorsports]

Thanks for all the reply’s and tips guys. I checked out those items and they look good. Will probably go with them.
Do you guys make pedal stops for the throttle and clutch pedals on these cars? Is that a thing ? I’ve got the wilwood pedal box kit from FFR.

I’d like to make a build thread, can I post pictures without using a hosting site? (Like some of the newer mobile app forums?)

[davekp]

Throttle stop for sure.

[AC Bill]

I'm pretty sure a throttle cable should have been included with your parts from FFR? Is it listed on your parts manifest? That wasn't one of the parts deleted from the Cnd cars, unless something has changed.

The Thompson pedal, and the stock FFR cable has worked fine for me, for over 9 years of driving. You do need to use a stop for it. Take your time setting it up, to ensure you can still get wide open throttle, and will allow it to return to an idle.

[boat737]

Thanks for all the reply’s and tips guys. I checked out those items and they look good. Will probably go with them.
Do you guys make pedal stops for the throttle and clutch pedals on these cars? Is that a thing ? I’ve got the wilwood pedal box kit from FFR.

I did both throttle and clutch pedal stops, as well as the Edwardb mechanical throttle linkage.

[phileas_fogg]

For the throttle stop, I made sure I was at full throttle when the Russ Thompson pedal contacted the triangular mounting brace at the front of the foot box. I also made sure that the lever arms on the throttle linkage contacted the firewall at full throttle.

For the clutch stop, I reinforced the front of the foot box wall with some 16 gauge steel.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/981/41058815975_9d6e1a5e45_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25yeawg)IMG_4410 (https://flic.kr/p/25yeawg) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

I used a generous amount of JB Weld and some rivets to secure it in place. Note that the backing plate goes inside the foot box, not outside as shown in the picture below.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/41239444374_7aaba7efdc_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25QbW41)IMG_4410 (https://flic.kr/p/25QbW41) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

I placed my stop fairly high off the floor to take advantage of the slight bend in the foot box aluminum. The bend adds stiffness, and I wanted as much as I could get. Then I used two 1/2”-13 x 3/4” bolts with a a 3/4” coupler for the post. To get the stop at the correct height, I used two SAE washers (on the outside of the foot box panel and on the inside next to the backing plate) and two USS washers under the inside bolt.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/965/27174642927_7b102f0136_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hpk9Ak)IMG_4445 (https://flic.kr/p/Hpk9Ak) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

By adding or subtracting washers I can vary the height of the stop. Note that I am using a hydraulic clutch, so I don't have to worry about cable stretch affecting where I want the height.


John