Getting the Driveshaft in

[chjort]

I spent some quality time on the floor of the garage yesterday trying to get the driveshaft into place. I jacked the transmission up, lowered it down, moved the output shaft to different positions, no dice. I have not tightened the nuts on the motor mounts, so I was thinking couldn't I just lift up the motor a little and get that extra inch of clearance I need to get the drive shaft engaged, and then put the motor back down on the mounts? Is there any reason that wouldn't work? Seems like that might be easier to do than fooling around with trying to get the driveshaft in with everything already in place.

[michael everson]

Live axle or IRS? If live axle drop the rear down as low as it will go and feed the driveshaft in from the driver side top corner over the rear end. If IRS try removing the trans mount to help lower it and then feed in from the same location.
I have built many of these and had no real issues getting the drive shaft in. Perhaps you have the wrong one?
Mike

[Railroad]

chjort, someone will have the answer. We do need to know what trans, new or used, and what rear end you are running.
One thing, I encountered on a new TKO 600 was a rubber doughnut pressed onto the out put shaft of the trans. It was inside the seal area. I had to use long needle nose pliers to separate it from the spline and pull it out in pieces.

Some have been sent the wrong length driveshaft, also.

I know it sounds like a non issue, but some lube on the splines and outside of the yoke will make things mate up easier.

Post your specs and the answers will be short coming.

[cv2065]

I had some issues getting my IRS drive shaft in. It's like a small puzzle. It only goes in one distinct way. I think I rotated it from the drivers side in...then it just went in after about an hour of fooling with it. Surprised me actually...I even did a jig in the garage right after..;)

Don't forget to lube up the yoke with some trans fluid. If you have to remove the donut from the TKO, just make sure you are grabbing the inner donut and not the outer seal. I tore mine and had to replace. I have pics in my build thread of what it looks like.

[chjort]

Thanks, guys. It is a TKO 600 with the IRS setup. No donut. Driveshaft appears to be the correct size, and things are pretty lubed up down there. cv2065's experience is what I've been hearing is typical, that you have to spend an hour+ screwing around with it until you get the right orientation. That's why I think move the engine//transmission instead, and we might be able to get this done in less time.

[Ducky2009]

Possible double check if you have the correct driveshaft. You need #16350 - 31 spline driveshaft for TKO 500 or 600 trans.

You didn't define "why" it doesn't fit. Can you not get in inserted into the trans OR after inserting in trans, can't get it connected to the rear end?

NOTE: I originally did not add a 3/4" shim under the trans mount. I could install the drive shaft but it wouldn't turn. Could it possible be interfering with your install?

[edwardb]

Agreed with the posts that it takes a specific position and angle on the driveshaft once the slip yoke is all the way in. The u-joint will typically be tight against the seal on the back of the TKO (not too tight... don't damage it) and then the driveshaft should swing in. Then 3/4 - 1 inch of slip yoke will show when the driveshaft is position back against the center section. If it won't go in that way, then it's too long. You shouldn't have to start taking things apart, most especially the engine from the mounts.

[Pat427]

I spent a full day (and I mean fullll day) trying to get that thing to go in and I never could make it work. I ended up taking out my engine completely, putting the driveshaft in the transmission and then putting the whole thing back in the car. That was a low point for me on the build.

[cv2065]

Ducky makes a good point. I did pull out my 3/4” spacer before installing.

[gkp200]

I read about CV2065's issues with the TKO and IRS so I slipped my driveshaft in as I was installing the engine/transmission. It was very easy that way. I supported the end of the driveshaft with some cable ties while I continued to wrestle the eng/trans into place.
Then I cut the cable ties and bolted the driveshaft flange to the rear. At this point you may need to pull the engine/trans out just a little to slide the driveshaft in.

[frd2]

My supplies driveshaft for the same setup went in ok but was very long. It compressed the seal slightly when installed. I found someone with an older version that was shorter. Apparently ffr lengthened the part a couple yrs ago for some reason. They claimed my long one that hit the seal was correct and ok.