Joe's Gen3 Street-Track-Drift Build Thread

[ProJoe]

Today I did it, I made the deposit on a Type 65 Gen 3 coupe.

I am going to wax poetic for a bit because this has been a long time coming for me. When I was in high school ~20 years ago (I know, not THAT long for some of you ;) ) my very first purchase on eBay was a poster (https://i.imgur.com/khnljoA.png) that I have seen in the background of many build threads here. This was about the time I started to get more heavily involved in cars. I had heard of Factory Five then because they rocketed to the top of the Cobra kit car market and always said one day I would build one. After high school I went to and graduated Universal Technical Institute and after worked in a performance shop for a handful of years. During that time I got heavily involved in the new and growing drifting scene in the US. In Arizona I drove with NASA AZ and organized events under a group I started with a friend called TrialByFire. We used to run drift events throughout AZ (Firebird, PIR, P1, SIR, etc). I also drove my fair share of HPDE events as well because I also love grip racing. I built a fun little car, a 97 Nissan 240sx with a LS1

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I drove my old girl juuuuust barely well enough to make it look like I knew what I was doing sometimes.

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Unfortunately the economy was going south, my shop closed, and I had to make the hard choice of livelihood over chasing the dream so I moved to Phoenix to start over. I moved into the IT Industry and have been doing that in various capacities ever since. After re-establishing my career and life (bought a house, long term relationship with a very supportive girlfriend, made up for lots of missed vacations, etc.) the itch started to come back. I tried to scratch that itch with some really fun cars (E39 M5, 370z, and my current car a 2015 Mustang GT) but they didn't cut it. I didn't want to re-build my old track car and Factory Five had been at the top of my list for literally 2 decades; so here I am. I wanted a car I could drive practically year around including in our blistering summers and still be a potent track weapon.

That's about enough about me and cranking my own hog, so here's the nitty gritty.

A lot of final details will be ironed out as it goes, I purposely did not pre-plan everything because I wanted to continue to see how different people do different things and make this thing more my own with some touches to help what I will be using it for. I also did not want to speed through it as to force myself to research parts as I need them, not be concerned about fabricating, etc.

Purpose of the car: 60/40 street/track with a little drifting sprinkled in.

Heres the high level overview with my options:
Gen 3 Base Type 65 Coupe
Tubular front LCA's
2015 Mustang IRS
high back Kirkey seats
front and rear swaybars

Later Additions - AC kit and 2 piece MK4 spindles

I still haven't decided what damn engine to use.

having a fair bit of experience with LS motors so my brain screams LS3 but I absolutely love the Coyote in my Mustang so it's a hard choice. in reality it will probably be whichever I get a better deal on.

many, many other things will be decided along the way like brakes, fuel system, wheels, etc. etc.


I will do my best to keep this thread updated but it will probably go weeks/months between them. so fair warning ;)

[Logan]

Some of your bio is very familiar, because it is similar to my own. Followed FFR from virtually their beginning (1995 ish), and have wanted to build one ever since. School, work, life happens and suddenly it’s 20 years later. I’ve owned and tracked a range of motorcycles and vehicles over the years, but the desire to build the FFR still lingered. In 2017 I bought an S550 Mustang with the Performance Pack, and got heavy into autocross. During one of the events who should come rolling in but Erik Treves, one of the builders I’d been following for ages online. I had no idea he lived in my neck of the woods! Sort of surreal meeting someone for the first time but feeling like you sort of know them already. Anyway, a year later and my order was placed. The time is now....enough waiting. I’m now a few months into my Gen3 Coupe-R and loving it. Will be the same disciplines as yours, even some light drifting with a group in Nashville I’ve been watching.

This post wasn’t supposed to be about me... I guess I really need to start a build thread. Lol

Congrats on your purchase! Looking forward to watching it get built! LS or Coyote should be your only two options... and I don’t think you can go wrong with either. Personally, I’m a believer in “There’s no RPM like high RPM” so the Coyote wins for that. 8,500+ rpm is just amazing. T56 Magnum for the best shifting experience and more importantly RPM/torque capability too. Just start checking as many boxes on the order list as you want, and get your garage ready!

[GoDadGo]

Welcome Fellow Dark Sider!

The Type-65 Will Amaze You As Will Any Of The Factory Five Cars.

If I were ever going to build a Daytona, it would certainly be powered by an LS-3 with a T-56.

Shown below is my 383 SBC (All Dart) ZF 6-Speed, 3-Link Rear, MK-4 Cobra:

https://youtu.be/CaRlqMmKIzk

Again, Welcome Aboard Fellow Dark Sider!

[ProJoe]

I’m a believer in “There’s no RPM like high RPM”

There's no arguing that.

my only "complaint" about the Coyote is cost of parts/upgrades. There's something to be said for the simplicity of a pushrod motor and how cheap/easy it is to upgrade. 1 cam vs. 4 ;)



thanks Steve!

I received my tentative build completion date of 2/22/20! things are starting to get real.

[ProJoe]

I figured I should document this because it's probably the cleanest this garage will be for the next 1-2 years. it's still a little cluttered from a bathroom remodel that took far, far too long.

yes that's a tire mounter and balancer. don't judge me.

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here is my helper peeking her head out as well. this is her default position when I'm in the garage until I call her out to help

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[nskaats]

I like where this is going! Love seeing these cars used hard on any form of track.

Both engine choices are good options. I went LS in mine because my business is based around them, I already had a good engine to build from, it fits better meaning easier maintenance, power per dollar is way better, it will always have greater power potential, and it puts weight closer to where I want it.

I'm a big fan of RPM too. For what it costs to do cams, springs, chains, and phasers on a Coyote you can build a hydraulic roller cam to turn 8,500 RPM on an LS and still make more power while spending less.

[ProJoe]

Thanks for the input Nick, I am following your build with great interest!

[GoDadGo]

Thanks for the input Nick, I am following your build with great interest!

Ditto On Nick's Build!

[nskaats]

Thanks for the input Nick, I am following your build with great interest!

If you end up needing help with valvetrain setup and selection, let me know. That's what I do for a living. I can help you find the right combination to make it reliable at high RPM.

[ProJoe]

If you end up needing help with valvetrain setup and selection, let me know. That's what I do for a living. I can help you find the right combination to make it reliable at high RPM.

I will be sure to hit you up. I'm not going for 8500 but a cam/valvetrain might be in the cards at first. thank you!

[ProJoe]

Question:

If I go LS3, a dropout will come with a TR6060. I don't see many people using a TR6060 instead opting for a T56/magnum.

anyone have suggestions for a good mid-shift kit for a TR6060? I found this one but would like to hear from those who have done it in a FFR https://core-shifters.com/products/core-hurst-shifter-base-for-tr6060-from-camaro-cts-v-gt500-6-speed-trans-swap

[nskaats]

The TR6060 isn't as popular for swaps because it's more expensive to start with. It also has an internal pump for a cooler so you can run a trans cooler with it. Parts availability isn't as great as the T56 either, so might steer you in that direction. I know of a handful of front shift conversions for the T56 variants but nothing for the TR6060. Silver Sport seems to have decent products. We've sold and installed a few of their trans conversions now but I don't believe they offer any TR6060 components either.

[nskaats]

That's a good budget friendly engine and very stout. If there's one thing to change while you're doing the cam and before you put it in the car, get the heads milled and put a thinner gasket on it. A 0.036" Cometic gasket and cutting the heads to get the chambers down to 66ccs will take compression ratio from 9.6 up to 10.45:1. That gasket will also bring quench distance to about 0.030". Compression is free torque and these engines love it. It will be much more responsive everywhere. I won't even build a boosted engine below 10:1 anymore. The days of low compression are thankfully gone!

You're going to get some grief on the engine choice but you'll get used to it. Makes things more fun lol

[ProJoe]

You're going to get some grief on the engine choice but you'll get used to it. Makes things more fun lol

oh man when I took out the Skyline engine from my Nissan 240sx and replaced it with a LS1 I was a pariah. I literally got made fun of by announcers at proam events. then a few years later they were all using LS motors....

I embrace the hate.

[nskaats]

oh man when I took out the Skyline engine from my Nissan 240sx and replaced it with a LS1 I was a pariah. I literally got made fun of by announcers at proam events. then a few years later they were all using LS motors....

I embrace the hate.

I have a customer putting together a 240 with an LS/T56 right now and getting the same amount of love. I think that's part of the reason he's doing it lol. I'm looking forward to tuning it just because it always stirs crap when I post that stuff on my business page.

[ProJoe]

not a real update, but a milestone event for me today:

coupe and shipping officially paid for.

also a 2016 mustang GT 3.73 rear dropout is on the way

now I wait.

anxiously.

I am STILL waffling on an engine. daily driving a coyote mustang makes it really hard to ignore that powerplant.

[nskaats]

Congrats on the payoff! That's a pretty big occasion by itself. The engine is a big decision on any project. Truthfully you can't go wrong with either one. For me it was a bit easier with my business and having one sitting here to build. But ultimately I think even starting from scratch I'd go the same route again. It just fits the car and my goals so much better.

[ProJoe]

First piece arrived, 16k miles 2017 3.73 mustang GT rear dropout

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[ProJoe]

another update-non update. I disassembled the entire rear dropout and did a little POR15 treatment on an axle to see what it would do.

wow. I am thoroughly impressed. Living in Arizona we don't really need rust inhibitors but I am shocked how easily this stuff applied even to a piece that had surface rust. Needless to say the entire rear axle assembly is getting the same treatment.

The test piece
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"Before" (unfinished side)
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"After" (finished side)
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t-4 days to my estimated completion date. I still can't believe it's coming. there is still so much left to figure out.

does anyone track their car with the OEM PBR 2 piston front brake setup? how do you like it? I am starting to wonder if I really, truly need power assisted brakes. I just don't know, the last manual brake car I drove was a 66 mustang with 4 wheel drums so it isn't really a fair gauge.

[Logan]

Does anyone track their car with the OEM PBR 2 piston front brake setup? how do you like it? I am starting to wonder if I really, truly need power assisted brakes. I just don't know, the last manual brake car I drove was a 66 mustang with 4 wheel drums so it isn't really a fair gauge.

Even if you could put an aggressive enough pad into the sliding-type 2-piston PBR calipers to get a high coefficient of friction statically, when you start racing on them they will most likely not be able to endure the stress dynamically for very long. Most of the time, sliding calipers like those are just not up to the task of racing duty. They’re not very stiff, due to their sliding design, so adding a bunch of heat could lead to fade, warpage, or (hopefully not) failure. If track usage is in your plan, I highly recommend going with a strong brake system even if it means moving some funds away from the engine to do so.

*Disclaimer: I have not personally tracked a FFR. I’m currently building a track-focused Coupe-R, while applying learnings from racing motorcycles and cars (mostly 3,600lb+ Mustangs), and being around people much smarter (and faster) than me.

[ProJoe]

Thanks for the reply Logan.

on my old track car (similar weight to a coupe) I used the OEM nissan 240sx single piston brakes and the only time I ever had a problem was when I used full slick tires and way, way overdrove the car. I'm curious what the PBR setup can do on a car that weighs so much less than a factory mustang and paired with good pads and fluid.

[ProJoe]

Now the fun begins.

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also purchased an engine last night: LS3.

[ProJoe]

inventory was a lot more straightforward than I was expecting. only missing a couple small pieces and the entirety of box 6b haha

end of day 1: totally disassembled

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so thoughts from day 1:

Stewart transportation was great from start to finish, I see why they are the standard. this truckload of kits barely made it out before MA shut down last tuesday and per my driver he "made it out by the skin of his teeth" so I am so thankful it made it here because it sounds like I will be working from home for at least the next 30+ days.

I'm a little disappointed that an entire box was not included (it wasn't lost, it just never left the factory with my kit) but I understand the nature of this beast and it is what it is.

I paid for my LS3 motorset about 1am this morning (last night?) and by 1130am I had a tracking number and it was loaded onto the freight carrier. I am completely floored how fast the turnaround was on it.

I'm having trouble locating SN95 spindles at a reasonable price, anyone have any ideas? I'd prefer new/reman'd over ebay/parts yards. I know FFR has some still but they are...expensive.... to say the least.

I just bought enough **** to keep me busy for the next year + a handful of light upgrades for the LS (clutch, cam/valvetrain, etc) if I'm gonna be stuck in my house I'm gonna spend it building this thing.

also, the aluminum panels are very, very sharp. wear gloves, and try not to crack your head on the edge of dash like an idiot. did you know foreheads bleed, a lot?

[ProJoe]

Things are starting to move really fast. motor showed up today. LS3 from a Camaro.

the go-fast and dont-blow-up parts should be here this weekend.

https://i.imgur.com/JdAy0ST.jpg

[edwardb]

Why donor front spindles? The geometry of the Factory Five 2-piece spindles is vastly superior and don't require the upper ball joint adapter. Plus sounds like may not be much more expensive. I've had both and there's a marked difference in how well the FF spindles drive. The total lack of bump steer was a welcome improvement.

[ProJoe]

congrats on your car's graduation btw!

and are we talking about the same "donor" spindles? I might be using that phrase incorrectly here. I'm going with a SN95 94+ 5 lug, 2 piece setup. they are less than $150 used and the FFR ones are $700.

[edwardb]

congrats on your car's graduation btw!

and are we talking about the same "donor" spindles? I might be using that phrase incorrectly here. I'm going with a SN95 94+ 5 lug, 2 piece setup. they are less than $150 used and the FFR ones are $700.

Thanks. I'm talking about these. If you're not using them, IMO that's a big mistake. They come with the complete kit but not the base kit you purchased. I get they're more expensive. But not a place to save budget. You're building a high end ride there. Figure out a way to reduce cost somewhere else if you have to.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/14850-mk4-spindle-set/

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/.highres/IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/9a83b039-bf13-4784-bce6-1df62a965a7a)

[ProJoe]

so since we're talking about a gen 3 coupe and not a MK4, what's the difference between those you posted and these listed for the coupes? https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/14507-front-spindle-set/ I'm not trying to argue I'm just genuinely curious why the 2 piece setup is superior but on FFR's site they don't even list it as an option for the coupes? If there is such a massive difference I'm not opposed to spending the money

[David Williamson]

Not all the parts that are common between the models are listed on the Coupe parts list on the FFR parts web site. All the suspension parts are the same but the coupe body is wider so the wheel fit is slightly different. The new FFR front spindle design is better, way less bump steer.
David W

[edwardb]

so since we're talking about a gen 3 coupe and not a MK4, what's the difference between those you posted and these listed for the coupes? https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/14507-front-spindle-set/ I'm not trying to argue I'm just genuinely curious why the 2 piece setup is superior but on FFR's site they don't even list it as an option for the coupes? If there is such a massive difference I'm not opposed to spending the money


Not all the parts that are common between the models are listed on the Coupe parts list on the FFR parts web site. All the suspension parts are the same but the coupe body is wider so the wheel fit is slightly different. The new FFR front spindle design is better, way less bump steer.
David W

The spindles you linked to (part #14507) are Mustang spindles. The ones David W and I are talking about are proprietary FFR designed spindles that were made available some years ago and are included in complete kits. Incorporated various fixes that people had come up with over years to improve the donor parts. Plus eliminated the need for the upper ball joint adapters. https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/13819-1987-2004-spindle-adapter-bracket/. The same exact suspension parts are used on several FFR models, including the FFR 2-piece spindles. Roadster, Coupe, and their various Hot Rod models. Agree it's a little confusing the FFR parts page doesn't say that. As David W said, all the suspension parts between the Roadster and the Coupe are exactly the same. The picture I posted happened to be from a Roadster build. Looks the same on the Coupe.

[ProJoe]

thanks for the clarification!

I wonder why the 2 piece ones aren't listed on the coupe's parts page. looks like I need to order those.

[edwardb]

thanks for the clarification!

I wonder why the 2 piece ones aren't listed on the coupe's parts page. looks like I need to order those.

On the kit overview on their website, base kit says it's expected you would use donor Mustang LCA and spindle. On the complete kit overview says the complete front suspension is included and mentions the FFR spindles. On the base kit order form, it does list FFR LCA's as an option, but you're right not the FFR spindles. Probably covered under the ending statement "Additional parts and custom options can be found in our parts catalog." Curious did you order your kit on-line or did you call and walk through the order on the phone? A lot of times these kinds of choices are discussed when you call and actually talk to someone. But in the end now you know what the options are. Probably won't be the last surprise and/or change you make during the build. Nature of the process.

[ProJoe]

I went 100% online, since I am going custom for a handful of parts I figured I would learn as I go; case in point.

[ProJoe]

Buying a used motor is always a crap-shoot. You can only do so much research from 1000 miles away.

Looks like I scored a decent one this time.

https://i.imgur.com/gW6ZKTq.jpg

[ProJoe]

life pro tip for any soon to be builders:

take a drill and a wire wheel to the threaded portion of your upper ball joint mount and to the threaded part of your ball joint. there's so much powder coating and paint on each piece it's actually impossible to fully seat.

30 seconds with a drill, seats no problem. don't forget red loctite! :)

[ProJoe]

couple small updates and a question.

front arms and coilovers loosely installed

https://i.imgur.com/UL46RFV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s0CCLg2.jpg

I'm still debating on using the SN95 spindles, the bump steer issue seems to be more manageable for some. Since they're here I might as well install them and I can always upgrade later.

Before:
https://i.imgur.com/q4n8EAW.jpg

After with brakes:
https://i.imgur.com/YtVYsig.jpg

[ProJoe]

now a question:

I'm using a new power steering rack from RockAuto and the ID of the metal bushing is 2mm smaller than the OD of the busing insert that comes with the base kit.

Has anyone ran into this before? I think the easiest path to resolution is to drill out the "OEM" bushing (it's 3mm thick) and press the FFR one into it.

here's a few photos of what I'm talking about.

the "OEM" bushing and the FFR one
https://i.imgur.com/KSk92Q3.jpg

their sizes:
https://i.imgur.com/3j1iGpT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/afSYrX0.jpg

and just in case, how the "OEM" bushing fits and sits in the rack (not pressed into place)
https://i.imgur.com/m45Pnfz.jpg

[Erik W. Treves]

remove stock bushings and sleeves and replace with the kit provide poly bushings and sleeves

[ProJoe]

Hi Erik, unfortunately the kit does not provide new rubber bushings. Here are the instructions direct from the manual:

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so I am unable to use the FFR metal inserts because they are not a large enough diameter to fit into the OEM rack bushing.

[Erik W. Treves]

that's odd because mine came with them... they are poly not rubber as well...you might check your inventory list again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25743-Yama-Bro-s-MK4-Build-Thread-9158/page2&highlight=steering+rack+bushing

Page 2

[ProJoe]

huh how interesting, did you get your power rack direct from factory five?

[ProJoe]

I doublechecked my inventory, no mention of poly bushings in any of the chassis component lists or the extras box.

[David Williamson]

base kit vs complete kit?
David W

[Erik W. Treves]

I got a complete kit from FFR - mine was a coupe but they are all the same - I am not sure I have my inventory list still - but they were not with the rack that I can recall... I seem to recall maybe that they were in the front control arms box....meh... been a while and I checked the garage... I tossed my last set of inventory sheets... sorry... anyway ... point being... there is a part for that to keep from having to deal with that ....

[ProJoe]

I think that's our discrepancy, I got a base kit and the manual calls out reusing the OEM bushings on the "donor" rack so it would make sense they didn't include the poly's with the base.

[Erik W. Treves]

well then they gave you the spacers for the complete kit rather than the base kit??... sounds like??... McMaster-Carr looks like, if you don't want to wait for FFR to open back up and get you hooked up.

or better get the poly mounts!!

[ProJoe]

I'm gonna snag some offset BBK bushings and make it work.

I'd wager more that this is the rack I ordered versus the wrong inserts being sent. gotta love dealing with the aftermarket but these are the kinds of hiccups I'm expecting build from a base kit and no donor.

[Erik W. Treves]

lol.. high-five... i was gonna pick on your rack... but decided not to.. :) good call on the the offset bushings.

[ProJoe]

Today's update, front's are about done. UCA adjustment arms are still loose, waiting for some parts to install the rack and brakes. gonna start on the rear tomorrow

https://i.imgur.com/fn0LXgW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AvMrUTO.jpg

[ProJoe]

so the offset rack bushings solved my rack insert problem, so clearly it was a problem with the rack I bought. Here are some photos.

https://i.imgur.com/qN23TgS.jpg

Here is how the FFR insert fit into the "OEM" rack bushing
https://i.imgur.com/pVFGh4Y.jpg

and here's how it fits in the BBK offset bushing.
https://i.imgur.com/WPvSL3H.jpg

got the rear end installed over the weekend, progress has slowed a bit. We had a geriatric dog that took a turn for the worse and we had to put him down today. he was 17 and my girlfriend has had him for 16 years so it's hitting us pretty hard. Hopefully more progress next week.
https://i.imgur.com/S6oHLYo.jpg

[P100DHG]

Dogs are part of our families and they bring so much joy and love into our lives. I am still grieving the loss of my dog a year ago. I send my heart felt sympathies to you guys in this time.

[Automan]

My condolences to you and your family for your loss.

They truly are our best Friends

[ProJoe]

appreciate the thoughts guys. at least we got to spend his last few weeks with him at home.


so my 2017 mustang GT hubs had these little ears on them that contacted both the LCA and toe arms on both sides.

https://i.imgur.com/hcCKEl5.jpg



now that I'm looking back at the pictures I'm wondering if installing the top first then the bottoms would have worked better and cleared the angle more, regardless couple minutes with a grinder and file, problem solved


https://i.imgur.com/u2XlCwn.jpg


rear suspension is about complete except for the final alignment settings. still need to pull in new wheel studs so I can attach the axles but made some progress today.

https://i.imgur.com/1p6WaYL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/q9NLmzw.jpg

[jwhit]

Today's update, front's are about done. UCA adjustment arms are still loose, waiting for some parts to install the rack and brakes. gonna start on the rear tomorrow

https://i.imgur.com/fn0LXgW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AvMrUTO.jpg

hate to give bad news but sn95 spindles with adapters dont work on coupe i did same thing and had to call ffr and they sent me spindles at no cost
check it out this has happened to me a few other guys
project is looking nice

[ProJoe]

I was thinking about upgrading to the 2 piece ones anyway, but why don't they work?

[edwardb]

I see you have the front suspension in the lower "street height" mounting holes. But you put the rear coilover top mounts in the upper "race height" mounting holes. Would suggest moving those down.

I've not had any trouble with those tabs on the spindles. Suspect it was the assembly order or angle you had them when assembling. But certainly doesn't hurt anything to trim them off.

[Automan]

hate to give bad news but sn95 spindles with adapters dont work on coupe i did same thing and had to call ffr and they sent me spindles at no cost
check it out this has happened to me a few other guys
project is looking nice

Mine are setup this way. Why wont they work?

thanks
Nelson126581

[jwhit]

I was thinking about upgrading to the 2 piece ones anyway, but why don't they work?
angles are off and wheels want fit it has the upper and lower controll arm spread apart way more than its designed for
stick a wheel on and you will see how much difference there is

[ProJoe]

thanks for the update, I guess I'll be calling FF soon.

[ProJoe]

I see you have the front suspension in the lower "street height" mounting holes. But you put the rear coilover top mounts in the upper "race height" mounting holes. Would suggest moving those down.

I've not had any trouble with those tabs on the spindles. Suspect it was the assembly order or angle you had them when assembling. But certainly doesn't hurt anything to trim them off.

This was deliberate - I was going to move the front's up when the new spindles arrived, I just haven't heard from FFR and am in no rush to press them due to the current situations.

but good eye!

[edwardb]

This was deliberate - I was going to move the front's up when the new spindles arrived, I just haven't heard from FFR and am in no rush to press them due to the current situations.

but good eye!

Good luck with that. The Gen 3 Coupe chassis is very low. I have mine assembled in the lower street height holes. I have my ride height at 3-1/2 in the front and 3-3/4 in the back. That's as low as I was comfortable with for street driving plus going in and out of my trailer for the few times I do that and not have an excessive gap between the top of the tires and the body. I'd be afraid of the race height putting the ride height even lower. You could crank the coilovers up to get a more acceptable street ride height, but then the control arms wouldn't be at the optimal levels. This has been discussed several times in other build threads and arrived at the same conclusion. Factory Five technical support also said the same thing. Unless you're building a dedicated track car, I'd recommend the street height holes.

[P100DHG]

Good luck with that. The Gen 3 Coupe chassis is very low. I have mine assembled in the lower street height holes. I have my ride height at 3-1/2 in the front and 3-3/4 in the back. That's as low as I was comfortable with for street driving plus going in and out of my trailer for the few times I do that and not have an excessive gap between the top of the tires and the body. I'd be afraid of the race height putting the ride height even lower. You could crank the coilovers up to get a more acceptable street ride height, but then the control arms wouldn't be at the optimal levels. This has been discussed several times in other build threads and arrived at the same conclusion. Factory Five technical support also said the same thing. Unless you're building a dedicated track car, I'd recommend the street height holes.

Somebody as to be the sacrificial lamb don't discourage him. :p

Seriously though when I took my car off the wheel dollies and my coil overs are cranked to the max height it feels low. 3.5" is low. Just think about driving on a grass field for a car show or just going to a restaurant and scraping the paint off or worse cracking your front bumper/nose. Also I have heard at race height you can't open the hood without jacking up the car.

[ProJoe]

luckily it's not permanent guys, only take a half hour..maybe an hour and an alignment to fix ;)

[ProJoe]

small update:

there have been some...discrepancies...between the parts ordered and the ones needed. I can see why a lot of people buy a complete kit just for the simplicity.

fuel tank is hung-ish. I didn't use a plastic cover but I think I'm going to fabricate a rock guard for it out of aluminum and just riv-nut it to the chassis. I am concerned about the strength of the tank over time and with some track use/abuse.

https://i.imgur.com/UTmiYKc.jpg

pressure line is run, since I'm going LS based there is a trick filter used on the C5 corvettes that has a built in regulator and return. I am going to mount it near the tank and my tank to filter and return from filter lines will be under a foot long. saves having to run a totally separate return hard line from the tank to the engine bay.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-75d0b/images/stencil/2000x2000/products/134753/110157/download__27516.1424874783.jpg

still waiting on a couple bits and pieces for the rear suspension/driveline to finish it up hoping to have it here this week.

https://i.imgur.com/AiA2VPg.jpg


Today the girlfriend and I were supposed to be flying to Germany for Springtober fest. that obviously isn't happening...

the instruction manual shows the pedal box next. I need to make a decision on manual versus power brakes. the consensus seems to be nobody regrets going power brakes but those with manual seem to not mind them. I was looking at a wilwood hydroboost setup but the price is STAGGERING at over $700. anyone know of a more economical option? I think with good pads manual brakes will work I just don't want to regret the decision later.

edit: I think an OEM hydroboost setup is much cheaper. didn't realize they were still out there for a fair price.

[jwhit]

im use stock mustang brakes with the non powered wilwood pedalbox setup and cars stops great for street car cant answer how it would be on race track?

[ProJoe]

so I'm starting work on the pedal box and I feel like I am missing something with how people are doing a power brake setup.

I am pretty sure I want to run power brakes, something like an OEM hydroboost setup from a late model mustang but I am running into several questions that I can't seem to find answers to. I feel like I'm just missing them because people without a doubt have gone through this before.

the biggest one is how are people converting the wilwood brake pedal from rear push to front push to accommodate a booster? is there an easy method? I'd rather not "re-engineer" it if someone has figured it out already.

I'm hoping to have the brake situation decided on and all the engine upgrades done soon. I seem to be making quicker progress than I anticipated and it looks like figuring out the engine mounts/placement are rapidly approaching. working from home for the last 5 weeks and probably for the next 5+ weeks are going to be very beneficial to this project haha

also I found a local guys build thread who did the steering shaft before gas pedal placement and holy HELL that just saved me a massive headache. since I'm going stupid and running a LS3 I'm gonna have to build a new pedal mount for the Camaro throttle pedal and if the steering shaft isn't run through the footbox it looks like there is a high probability the pedal mount would interfere with it.

[edwardb]

so I'm starting work on the pedal box and I feel like I am missing something with how people are doing a power brake setup.

I am pretty sure I want to run power brakes, something like an OEM hydroboost setup from a late model mustang but I am running into several questions that I can't seem to find answers to. I feel like I'm just missing them because people without a doubt have gone through this before.

the biggest one is how are people converting the wilwood brake pedal from rear push to front push to accommodate a booster? is there an easy method? I'd rather not "re-engineer" it if someone has figured it out already.

I'm hoping to have the brake situation decided on and all the engine upgrades done soon. I seem to be making quicker progress than I anticipated and it looks like figuring out the engine mounts/placement are rapidly approaching. working from home for the last 5 weeks and probably for the next 5+ weeks are going to be very beneficial to this project haha

also I found a local guys build thread who did the steering shaft before gas pedal placement and holy HELL that just saved me a massive headache. since I'm going stupid and running a LS3 I'm gonna have to build a new pedal mount for the Camaro throttle pedal and if the steering shaft isn't run through the footbox it looks like there is a high probability the pedal mount would interfere with it.

Mike Forte can do a mod to your Wilwood pedal box that converts it to a single pushrod with a front foobox mounted hydroboost setup, which he also sells. Used his setup in my #7750 Roadster build. Whitby Motorcars in NC also sells a kit that will convert your Wilwood pedal box. Comes with a new pedal arm and whatever else is needed. So yes, this has been done before and there are solutions out there. Obviously need to sort this out before running brake lines since the routing is affected. I think you'll find the $700 cost is about in the ballpark to go hydroboost, if not light. Between the changes to the pedal box, added hoses, etc. Also make sure you realize you'll lose the balance bar setup that's standard with the Wilwood box. So if you need to adjust front/back braking bias you'll need another method. Like a proportioning valve. Example: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-10922.

By all means get the steering column mocked up before finalizing your accelerator pedal. It's tight and has to be properly oriented for the Coyote setup as well. You'll also need to watch where it goes through the engine compartment for your engine, headers, etc.

[ProJoe]

Not to take anything away from Whitby or Forte but has anyone done it themselves? I have a pretty capable garage and see no need to send this out if it needs a plate, some welding, etc.

[ProJoe]

the curse of my chincy *** steering rack continues. I bought this thing as new from RockAuto so I'm not sure why it's being so difficult. after getting a couple jam nuts for the tie rods I can finally install the rack spacers and shorten the inner tie rods.

nowhere near the same size as the provided spacers. like a solid 1/4 inch difference.

everything else has been good so far but this steering rack is going to be the death of me. I might just try to find some different brand rack spacers, these are REALLY popular in the drift community so they are probably out there.

[ProJoe]

so I don't have a lot of good picture updates because they are kind of boring.

over the past few weeks I completed the engine prep work. this took longer than expected, I needed some various parts and tools which required shipping and as we all know all of that has been crazy for the past few months.

I installed a Texas Speed stage 2 cam with hardened pushrods, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, and for good measure a high volume oil pump and new rollmaster timing chain kit. I did a very similar setup to the LS1 I ran in my drift car and that engine was dead-nuts reliable for years where all it did was go from full stop to bouncing off the redline for a few hours then would sit for a few weeks at a time. I am hoping for right about 500whp all said and done.

after pulling the pan, valve covers, etc. I am still absolutely floored with the condition of this motor. I have never in my life seen a junkyard engine taken so well care of. I am ecstatic with the condition of this thing.

here is a quick pic of the new valvesprings installed.

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I have done a few miscellaneous bits and pieces on the chassis over the past month but now it's getting more serious. I assembled and mounted the pedal assembly and am currently working on the pedal box and fabbing the mounts for the LS3 throttle pedal. I'm gonna have to make my first cuts and welds on the chassis for it and I'm excited ;) I decided to go with the manual brakes out of the box. I figured worst case scenario while it's a go-kart I can pull it and go boosted if I really hate it.

once the pedal is mounted it's time for the drivers side footbox fitting then I think it's time to work on engine mounts. I really liked what Nick Skaats did in his build using those corvette mounts but I might try to place the engine first and see where it sits compared to the "factory" mount positions on the chassis. to my knowledge nobody has done a LS3 and TR6060 trans in a gen 3 coupe so I might just be going it alone on this part. if anyone has some pictures of others that have gone this route please send them over!

[ProJoe]

question: has anyone found an off the shelf spray paint that matches the factory powdercoat?

I heard there is an appliance paint out there that might be close but am struggling finding something close. I'm gonna need to do some touch-up in the engine bay and footbox and would like to at least make it look like I tried to match the color.

[ProJoe]

apologies for the lack of updates, summer has arrived and I hate not having an air conditioned garage when its 110 outside. first world problems right?

the new throttle pedal mount is built, I used some scrap plate I had lying around and traced it to the shape of the LS3 pedal and just used some scrap square tubing I had to weld it to the chassis. ground it down and painted it black. it passes the eye test from 5 feet. nobody is going to see it anyway. I am going to use rivnuts for mounting of the pedal to the bracket.

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I had a ballast die in one of my primary shop lights so I converted some of it to LED and am SUPER happy with these LED bars. they are 3' strips that plug into each other and use significantly less power than the old traditional shop lights I had up before. I'm going to replace the last few halogen ones I have over my workbench soon.

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I cut the factory engine mount brackets off and cleaned up the frame, next are footboxes then time to fab the engine mounts. hoping to start the footboxes early next week.

[ProJoe]

I know it's been a few months. summer beat my *** this year. between hectic life at work, COVID nonsense, and 115 degree temps the car sat for the past few months.

to prevent this happening next summer, I bought this.
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18k BTU bosch mini split (inside unit not pictured). I got a KILLER deal on this. $600 brand new. everything there, box was damaged during shipping so the retailer couldn't sell it. This is a winter project so there is no slowdown next summer.

but the temps are coming down so I am heading back into the garage. I took a lot of you all's advice and when I ordered my AC kit I also added the 2 piece spindle set. I am pretty impressed with the quality. Install was straightforward and also got the front brakes in place. Running Hawk HPS 5.0 pads all around. hoping this gives me enough bite where I don't need a boosted pedal but time will tell.

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[ProJoe]

Tonights update:

rear brakes, installed. need to decide on what color I want the calipers lol
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also decided to make the top footbox panel removable in case I ever need to get under there and adjust or troubleshoot anything. I didn't like the idea of all the masters being behind a riveted down panel. (side note for your eagle eyed guys, this is not the original panel. there was a little mishap with it and I had to cut out a new one)
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[ProJoe]

so as I'm jamming towards fabbing up the motor mounts soon I realized I am pretty close to being able to put it on the ground and I need to figure out wheels.

I come from a world where wheel fitment is very, very important. none of this sunken in skinny tire ****

I've seen a lot of people run 1" spacers, my ideal wheel fitment is similar to this car:

136497

I know it's not a FFR kit, but does anyone have some specs on good fitment for the coupes?

I'm thinking 18x10 in the rear and probably 9's up front, but don't know what offset/backspacing is appropriate to reach the desired look.

[edwardb]

Haven't seen any builds on here with skinny tires. But OK. I'd suggest starting with the specs on Factory Five's website. https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15812-18-halibrand-style-replica-wheels/. 9" fronts and 11" rears with the backspace and offset dimensions listed. I used those wheels on my build, and yes it takes a 1-inch spacer with 315 tires to get the tire out where it belongs. That's because the rear suspension, IRS in my case, is the same width as the Roadster and the Coupe body is wider. Perhaps the aftermarket wheels you choose can take this into account and not need spacers. But within reason they don't hurt anything. This is how my rear fitment came out. Right where you'd want it width wise. Note this picture is before I had the ride height finally set, so it's a bit high. But you'll not get the Factory Five to be quite as tight as the Superformance you pictured. The chassis is just too low.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1800.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/186cc666-68d0-4881-b53c-af005ffe3552/p/14c390a8-bf9f-4d74-bb3d-880b40471888)

[Logan]

Joe, take a look at this thread where I’ve posted a bunch of fitment data:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?37591-335-30r18-wheel-back-spacing-on-gen-3-coupe

You can certainly put wider wheels under the car than 9” front and 10” rear.

[ProJoe]

appreciate the info guys!

[ProJoe]

so I wasn't 100% sure a TR6060 transmission would fit in the coupe and did my first test-fit tonight.

important note for anyone looking at this thread later: this must be an early-gen TR6060 (2010-2012 I believe) with mid-shift capabilities. the rear shift variant with the non-removable plate on top will not work as it will put the shifter too far in the cockpit and there is no adapter available.

looks like it will! This is just the first drop, I will get positioning done and the mounts started soon. (this is very rough positioning and about 2-3" high and possibly 1-2" rearward as well.) I think I might run a shifter from a company called Sikky that repositions the shifter 4" rearward of the topshft linkages which would allow me to move the engine/trans forward and utilize the factory trams mount positions on the chassis

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[ProJoe]

So since I'm a terrible person and don't update this thread enough here are the quick-hit updates!

engine and transmission mounts are done, the areas I sanded and welded are repainted. For the new powder coat I found a spray-paint that is THE PERFECT MATCH. Rustoleum Matte Custom Shop Black. Part number 263422. Everything left and north of the weld is FFR powdercoat, everything to the right is the paint. if you look at my previous post you can see how much I sanded after removing the crossmember from the upper tunnel.

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Things are starting to accelerate since the fab work is done. I have fitted both the DS and PS footboxes also fitted and drilled the rear bulkhead. Here are a couple terrible pictures.

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Did anyone else chamfer the holes on the chassis? I feel like it's unnecessary but figured if I'm gonna build this damn thing I'm gonna do it right.

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Next is to finish the paneling, then start on brake lines. I am questioning my decision to not run power brakes. since I expect to see a significant amount of track time I just don't know how well the SN95 cobra and S550 rear brakes will work without a power assist.

I had a quick chat with FFR and they recommended this for the gen 3 coupes: https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=2BFE78F8695F4586AC70FD35 6397FEAB

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my god it's hideous and gigantic. not sure how I feel about this option haha

[Snowman]

engine and transmission mounts are done, the areas I sanded and welded are repainted. For the new powder coat I found a spray-paint that is THE PERFECT MATCH. Rustoleum Matte Custom Shop Black. Part number 263422. Everything left and north of the weld is FFR powdercoat, everything to the right is the paint. if you look at my previous post you can see how much I sanded after removing the crossmember from the upper tunnel.

ProJoe,

I've been searching for a frame powered coat touchup solution, thanks for posting!

Cheers,
Patrick

[coup in australia]

I figured I should document this because it's probably the cleanest this garage will be for the next 1-2 years. it's still a little cluttered from a bathroom remodel that took far, far too long.

yes that's a tire mounter and balancer. don't judge me.

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here is my helper peeking her head out as well. this is her default position when I'm in the garage until I call her out to help

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Mine is shipping to Australia 13 feb so will be close behind you, am going balls out 427 custom build

[jwhit]

couple small updates and a question.

front arms and coilovers loosely installed

https://i.imgur.com/UL46RFV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s0CCLg2.jpg

I'm still debating on using the SN95 spindles, the bump steer issue seems to be more manageable for some. Since they're here I might as well install them and I can always upgrade later.

Before:
https://i.imgur.com/q4n8EAW.jpg

After with brakes:
https://i.imgur.com/YtVYsig.jpg

i hate to be the one to tell you this but sn95 spindles with adapters will not work on gen 3 frame
it throws controll arms out of wack and you cant get wheels on it
i found out hard way with about a dozen other guys cant belive ffr is still sending
the adapters when they know it want work. i called them up on mine and they sent me the
new spindles at no charge

[ProJoe]

**** did I not post that update? man I am bad at this.

I upgraded to the MK4 2 piece ones. I didn't like the way they looked and heard about the geometry issues. I appreciate you looking out tho!

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[ProJoe]

First panels are permanently installed!

did the rear bulkhead and both floors today. here's a terrible picture!

https://i.imgur.com/pU02daq.jpg

silicon question! what method do you guys prefer for application? just randomly apply to the chassis members before laying the panel down or once riveted down go back through and get the edges of every tube? I tried each way on on the rear bulkhead to decide what I liked the best, and the ease of application and cleanup for the direct to tube before laying the panel down was my preference but I'd love to hear what other builders have done. note: I have absolutely no concerns about moisture or rust in Arizona haha.

[edwardb]

silicon question! what method do you guys prefer for application? just randomly apply to the chassis members before laying the panel down or once riveted down go back through and get the edges of every tube? I tried each way on on the rear bulkhead to decide what I liked the best, and the ease of application and cleanup for the direct to tube before laying the panel down was my preference but I'd love to hear what other builders have done. note: I have absolutely no concerns about moisture or rust in Arizona haha.

You should lay down a silicone bead before putting the panel in place as the manual shows. I normally just connect the dots, e.g. a bead between all the drilled rivet holes. The purpose of the silicone is to act as an adhesive. Not just as a sealant. Putting it on after the fact would have very little adhesive qualities.

[Dave Tabor]

Is it believed that 'silconing' the panels added any strength/stiffness to the car?

Dave

[ProJoe]

You should lay down a silicone bead before putting the panel in place as the manual shows. I normally just connect the dots, e.g. a bead between all the drilled rivet holes. The purpose of the silicone is to act as an adhesive. Not just as a sealant. Putting it on after the fact would have very little adhesive qualities.

Thank you! the reason I asked is that the manual mentions doing it to the panel/tube then shows also doing it to the seam on the footboxes, so I was curious if it was JUST the footboxes or it was a valid method on other panels. https://i.imgur.com/u7iubTh.jpg.

[ProJoe]

Is it believed that 'silconing' the panels added any strength/stiffness to the car?

Dave

I don't believe it's for strength per se, just better adhesion of the panel to the frame. only riveted panels can be a lot more "tinny" when something pings off of them. increasing the surface area of the bond between the panel and the chassis will help with that along with just having a stronger overall bond between the two pieces

[ProJoe]

so I have a couple small updates. I finished fitting and painted both footboxes, also installed the steering shaft, I will post a picture soon of those but I am unhappy with the finish on the footbox panels. I think I used the wrong primer which caused a strange texture during paint. It's taken multiple very low spray passes to get them to look passible.

regardless it's time to drop the engine in finally. today I fitted the clutch and flywheel. I have had only great experiences with SPEC regardless of engine and abuse levels so I went with what I would call my standby, a sprung 6 puck and lightweight flywheel. This car is probably going to be 50/50 track and street so I wanted something that I could abuse but still manage at a stoplight. The release bearing on my OEM TR6060 slave was a little....crunchy... so I ordered a replacement. Unfortunately GM only sells them as a complete unit since the slave internal to the input shaft but I was able to find the part number on the bearing itself and surprise surprise, it's something you can order for 1/4 of the price of the whole slave assembly.

I apologize about the picture quality and lack of other pictures. here's a quick photo of my afternoon

https://i.imgur.com/qxuyh4F.png

[ProJoe]

Quick update!

If you're planning on using OEM mustang brake lines for the front, just save yourself some time and get the Breeze 17" ones. the OEM ones are hot garbage in comparison.

Engine is installed!

went surprisingly smoothly. I love it when something I fabricate actually fits after finish welding ;)

https://i.imgur.com/QCSMniU.jpg

I'm gonna clean everything up and get some more pictures this weekend.

[ProJoe]

Finalizing my brake lines right now just wanted to drop a recommendation on a KILLER flare tool that won't break the bank.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRVCPV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I was using just the generic double flare tool kit and it really wasn't getting the job done to a standard I was happy with. this thing is wonderful and makes perfect double flares every time.

[ProJoe]

I figured if I am gonna sing the praises of that double flare tool I should post what it does.

Here were my first test pieces results.

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tonight I got the battery tray done, and had to remake the brake line from FL to FR because, I ran it, right were the battery tray attached haha.

tomorrow is running the parking brake. I am still waffling on doing a hydro ebrake for drifting but regardless I figured having a low profile traditional ratcheting mechanical parking brake is gonna be nice.

[ProJoe]

So tonight I did the radiator ducting and battery tray. Nothing too crazy. Apologies for the messy garage we are 8 weeks into a 2 week kitchen project and everything has exploded all over my workspace.

https://i.imgur.com/foIqgh9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LXNg063.jpg

I made a post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38529-Gen-3-Coupe-2017-Mustang-IRS-using-factory-brakes-parking-brake-cable-adapter) about issues with the FFR parking brake cable and OEM IRS rear brakes. Unfortunately I think I am going to have to fab up an adapter. not opposed to doing it just hate spending time on something so simple and that I should be able to buy for $10. oh well that's part of the fun right? ;)

I also got my seat. I bought the Kirkeys from FFR but they didn't fit great for me, I'm a big dude and a hockey player so I have large shoulders and carry weight in my torso. I also need a lot of headroom because I need to clear my helmet so I needed something I could comfortably sit in for hours on end, sit as low as possible, and still give me legroom.

I have a Kirkey road racing seat from an old project but it wouldn't clear the doors or body when closed (I assume). So I went with the Kirkey 55 Drag seat and they are perfect. puts my head below the rollbar and is super comfortable.

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Gonna spend the next few days/weeks/whatever buttoning up some pieces that I have left sit. fuel line adapters, mounting the fuel line, install fuel pump, sway bars, brake/clutch master etc. I am WAY closer to a first start than I thought.

then onto wiring. I really, really like the idea of a power distribution module/panel from someone like Cartek (https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/power-distribution-panel/)but have never used something like it before. I have scratch-built chassis harnesses before but this would be all new for me. I love the simplicity and not having to think about relays but the price is a significant amount more than just doing a scratch built harness.

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More research is needed.

[jdm65]

I didn't think I'd find another S-Chassis owner building a coupe!

I'll be parking my Coupe next to my S15!

Looking forward to seeing how your build progresses!

Also, from one drift guy to another... I'm really jealous of your mount/balancer hahah

[ProJoe]

LOL thanks man. when I was driving a lot I was working at a shop and had at will access to a mounter and balancer, it REALLY spoiled me once I left the industry. I think I paid like $750 shipped for both of them, just a china ebay special knockoff of Atlas machines, but they're actually decent quality and have been working for years.

best of luck on your journey! it's an adventure.

[ProJoe]

so I have some updates. I started work on the AC/Heater and that's about 90% done. currently figuring out the compressor situation for the LS3 since the OEM one won't work with then vintage air setup provided by FFR. I decided a while back that I wanted to do a CF vynil wrap for the dash, gauge panel, and possible the transmission tunnel covers. Tonight I did the hard part, the dash, and I am really happy with how it turned out.

https://i.imgur.com/b3lsb3X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NmbYl1j.jpg

and then a little bit of a fail. I thought it would be neat to have a keyless ignition and picked up a cheap kit from Amazon expecting to kind of hack my way through it to work. I got it all worked out on the bench and working then tested it to see if it would transmit through one of the aluminum panels.

it does not. in fact, even when it's placed on TOP of the aluminum panel it doesn't recognize the fob. oh well what are you gonna do it was $20 on amazon haha

https://i.imgur.com/fhGtySY.jpg

[ProJoe]

After a few random hiccups I finally finished the gauge panel and tested the lighting. I decided to upgrade the colored lights that came with the kit and found these super trick little icon LED's that run on 12v. very happy they work. excuse the ghetto light test, I realized I don't have a spare working battery haha

https://i.imgur.com/aHeaIo6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/c1AR50T.jpg

next: I actually have no idea. I've accumulated loose ends again so I think I might tie some of those up haha. just looking for excuses to not start chassis electrical really.

[jbs72697]

That’s a good looking dash! I’ll be building an 818s soon and your pics are giving me good ideas of how to do mine

[ProJoe]

thank you! the total cost is well under $100 with the vinyl and LED indicators. really happy with how it turned out. I have a couple really small things to fix but it looks killer in person.

[ProJoe]

I know I haven't updated this thread in months but the summer hiatus hit again with the heat and taking a bunch of vacations. I am neck deep in chassis wiring but I finally decided on a major piece for me.

the wheels.

ESR RF2 18x10.5 +22 all around. excuse the mess in my garage.


https://i.imgur.com/t3NhF7X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UjSFEv1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7Wxd6R7.jpg

[Skuzzy]

Good looking wheels!

[ProJoe]

Thank you! I know this isn't the traditional coupe style, but where's the fun in doing what everyone else has done? ;)

[q4stix]

where's the fun in doing what everyone else has done? ;)

Agreed! Might as well make it all to your liking. I'm a fan of those and they should look sharp

[ProJoe]

if anyone in the greater Phoenix area ever needs tires mounted and balanced let me know ;)

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[Logan]

Hey Joe, any build updates? Have you checked wheel/tire fitment to the body yet? Since it's cooler this time of year you may get some reprieve and have better car building conditions.