Heater interference

[Ponymedic]

Has anyone had this problem i installed the heater and one of the round outlets is right in line with the 3/4 tube am I doing something wrong119975119976

[phileas_fogg]

You've got it right; the brace is in the way. I cut mine out after reading about several other builders doing the same.


John

https://live.staticflickr.com/4324/36157307091_040059dee8_4k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X66DGp)IMG_2284 (https://flic.kr/p/X66DGp) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[jrcuz]

I also removed that brace.
JR

[cobrajj]

I also removed mine.

[boat737]

It was close, but the ducting went around it with no problem.

(BTW, I ducted both vents to the foot box on each side. I did not use the defrost vents.)

[initiator]

When I asked FF about this issue, they said there should be enough room to bend the flex duct around the strut without removing it.

[bobm488]

I left the bar in and routed the flex tube around the brace.

[GTBradley]

The firewall forward mod by FF Metal (http://ffmetal.com/FirewallForwardKit.html) can help with this. I had more room between the dash and the firewall than I knew what to do with

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109084&d=1560897259

The heater in this his picture is modified to set farther into the firewall than normal so I could support the glove box back with it and get the needed room for the Coyote.

[SDhemmings]

the one that has given me the most headache is the PS defrost vent in the body, it is right above the heater and the fixture given interferes with the the heater box, very irritating.

[GWL]

Check out the plenum that North Racecars sells. Cut a hole where it's convenient and add a flange to attach the hose and you'll only need one tube to feed both defrost vents.

http://www.northracecars.com/OtherItems.html

120364

I've also removed that 3/4" support bar.

George

[Norm B]

the one that has given me the most headache is the PS defrost vent in the body, it is right above the heater and the fixture given interferes with the the heater box, very irritating.

There are forum vendors that sell a plenum for the defrost ducts that solves this problem but, I made my own duct for the pax side. I cut up the supplied duct and used a piece of ABS pipe to form a duct that fit above the heater. Here is a couple pictures.

Here’s a link to the plenum option http://northracecars.com/OtherItems.html
HTH

Norm

[Norm B]

GWL and I must have been posting at the same time. He won

[SDhemmings]

Yeah, i got that piece from North Race cars too, ended up cutting it way down and doing something similar as what Norm has done. still a pain in the A**.

[Ponymedic]

Thanks guys. The plenum looks like a winner. I will order today

[AC Bill]

Thanks guys. The plenum looks like a winner. I will order today

Anytime..we love spending other peoples money..lol

Back in the days when invention was the mother of necessity, I was looking at the same problem you encountered.
It seemed impossible that the duct hose could be attached to that heater outlet, with the support brace in the way. For some reason the heater case angled forward at the top when it was flush against the firewall. That moved the outlet forward, towards the brace..
By studying the issue, I determined that if the heater was just mounted rearward an inch or so, the problem would be solved. The duct hose could clear the brace.
So I made a wedge for it, to do just that.

Instructions call for using silicone around the mating surface of the heater, with the firewall. I used that to also create a good seal between the wood wedge and the heater.
Problem was solved for really no cost, other then a bit of time. The wood was scrap I had laying around.

The one picture shows my mock up, studying of the outlet issue, and how I determined what needed to be done, to clear that darn brace.

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