EngineeringHiggy's MKIV Build

[EngineeringHiggy]

Hours Tracked:
Cobra body install:
7/31/19: Delivery - 2.5
7/31: Unboxing - 1
8/5: Inventory of parts - 3
8/6: Inventory of parts - 4
8/7: Aluminum panels, Rear end install - 4
8/9: Rear end install, rear shocks, u-link - 8.5
8/10: Brakes, clutch pedal box - 5.5
8/11: Master cylinders, accelerator pedal
8/17: Steering rack, steering column, aluminum panels - 10.5
8/18: Aluminum panels - 5
8/19: Gas tank - 4.5
8/21: Finding gas line parts at store - 2.5
8/23: Installing gas lines - 9
8/24: Front brake lines - 5.5
8/26: Brake parts, starting install of wiring harness, heater/defrost - 6
8/27: Front spindles, Front suspension - 5.5
8/28: Brake lines - 5
8/30: Heater/defrost, rear aluminum panels - 3
8/31: Aluminum - 7
10/20: Rear brakes, tires/wheels - 5.5
Subtotal: 99 hours

--- Engine Build from 11/22/19 to 12/10/19. See section below ---

12/15: Radiator, front brakes - 5
12/16: Radiator, hoses, pulleys - 6
12/19: Power steering hoses, dipstick - 4
12/20: Heater/Defrost wiring, coolant, overflow tank - 5.5
12/11: Pulleys, starter, electrical - 5
12/22: Brake bleeding, electrical, fuel lines - 5
12/27: Getting parts, intake manifold, valve cover gaskets, spark plug wires, wire loom, added coolant again after radiator hose came off, distributor, coil, electronic ignition, spark plugs, serpentine belt - 10
12/29: Engine wiring, ground (braided wire to block, alternator, sensors), electronic ignition power and ground, wire management, hoses, reversed steering column bearing in firewall, fix thermostat housing leak, tested starter with no gasoline, added gasoline, tightened leaking carburetor, installed inertia switch - 11
12/30: Started engine, installed side exhaust pipes, installed horns, installed e-brake - 8.5
Subtotal: 157 hours

1/1/20: Worked on dash electrical - 4.5
1/2: leaking fuel lines, installed dash padding - 2
1/3: Dash pad continued, gauge install, wiring, ran engine - 5
1/4: Headlight switch, additional fuse panel, brake bleeding, transmission hear - 5
1/5: Brackets on passenger exhaust, adjust clutch, ran engine for 10 minutes, fixed radiator hose, fixed broken water temperature connection to sensor, locktite and torqued driveshaft bolts - 5
1/8: Fixed power steering pulley, began drilling transmission cover rivet holes - 3
1/9: Started installing Accelerator mechanical linkage - 2
1/10: Looking for parts and tools for mechanical linkage - 2.5
1/11: Finished installing mechanical linkage, prepped transmission tunnel aluminum panel, prepped driver's side footbox aluminum panels, weatherstripping on frame - 4
1/12: Go Kart stage - Riveted driver's side footbox panel, worked on clutch issue, found passenger rear brake leak, installed firewall support bracket - 4
1/13: Installed body onto frame, installed quickjacks, installed windshield - 2.5
Subtotal: 197.5 hours


Delivery, aluminum panels and steering column:

Received my new MK4 on 7/30/19 and was both extremely nervous and excited to get started.
Went with a few options such as wipers, heater/defroster, leather seats, dual chrome roll bars, power steering and other small items.
Car arriving and still on the truck:
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Removed body and decided that I'd leave almost all of the aluminum panels on until the manual said to install them. At that time, I'd just drill the holes, remove that panel, apply the silicone and rivet back into place.
So far, it seems to have worked out nicely. No labeling of panels, no extra storage of aluminum panels.
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Started installing my first aluminum panel as outlined in the manual.
Purchased and used the Cleco temporary fasteners. They work great!
Can't remember who's thread I read, but thanks for the suggestion.
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Installed the steering column
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and the power steering rack
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[TMartinLVNV]

Looks like you are off to a great start!

[edwardb]

Are you planning to leave the aluminum natural? If so, I'd get that marking ink cleaned off if I were you. The aluminum oxidizes over time and differently where the ink is located. Even when wiped off, a shadow (or whatever you want to call it) can still show. Use some acetone or lacquer thinner to get the ink off. Maybe other solvents, but those are the ones I've used.

Leaving all the panels on is an interesting choice. You'll find as you get into the details, like fuel lines, brake lines, electrical harness, pedal box, fuel tank, etc. you might want them (or at least some of them) out of the way. Especially when working on the ground with jack stands like you're doing. Mark them as needed, take lots of pictures, and don't be hesitant to remove. Seems like a lot of pieces I guess. But they really only go one way, so not a big deal.

[EngineeringHiggy]

Thank you Edwardb for your comments.
I have been going back and forth about what to do with the aluminum panels in the engine bay. I've considered painting it all black or just cleaning it and sealing it, but have finally decided to just leave it natural.
Thanks for letting me know about the oxidation differences where the ink is located. Will get that ink removed.
I purchased Eastwood's Pre-paint prep which I used on the new engine block to strip the default paint. Do you think that is better or worse than the acetone/lacquer thinner?

[EngineeringHiggy]

Rear End:

Purchased and received my new Moser rear end from FFR. Looks beautiful with the new, glossy black paint and chrome cover.
Moser delivered it in a huge crate which kept it secured and protected well.

Performed the pre-install work by adding the gear oil and vent tube.
Installed the Moser rear end, lower control arms and upper link mounts and panhard bar.
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Installed the springs and shocks
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After getting the rear end filled with gear oil and fully installed, I noticed that it was leaking around the seal on the driver's side.
This is a brand new rear end (+ $3k) and wasn't expecting any issues with it.

Removed the rear cover and axle. Noticed the the axle was rusted right where it met the seal.
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Upon closer inspection, I could feel a groove where it was rusted. This groove circumvented 180 degrees of the spindle, causing the leak.
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Called FFR and as usual, they were Johnny-on-the-Spot. They quickly convened with Moser and offered two options.
1. Send me a new rear end, which meant that I'd had to remove the existing one and re-install a new one.
2. Send me a new axle and seal.
I opted for the new axle and seal.

After installation and refilling it with gear oil, I haven't had any issues.


Didn't receive the rear calipers yet so will complete the brakes at another time.

[edwardb]

...Will get that ink removed.
I purchased Eastwood's Pre-paint prep which I used on the new engine block to strip the default paint. Do you think that is better or worse than the acetone/lacquer thinner?

I don't know. Try it and see. Suggest in an area first that wouldn't be seen. I only cited what I've used and know works.

[cob427sc]

Acetone seems to work the best. The marker ink will leave a ghost shadow if not removed for any length of time. Since the majority of the panels are either covered with carpet or hidden in view, the important ones are the firewall and engine bay if you don't plan on painting/powder coating. I don't know about where you are, but here in New England if you don't at least clear coat the panels, in a few years you will wish you had as corrosion starts to set in, always in the most god awful place to try and clean.

[cv2065]

Brake cleaner also takes it off really quickly. +1 on coating your panels with something. Aluminum does corrode over time, especially around snow or beachy areas.

[cnutting]

x2 on the brake cleaner. The sooner you remove the marks, the better. Coating the panels depends on the look you are after. Show car? Powdercoat is a great option. Vintage, but clean? Clearcoat will give a durable, natural look. I opted for a quick scotch-brite/au natural and two years of driving later still looks fine. Suits the vintage racer look.

[EngineeringHiggy]

Installed the front suspension and brakes:
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Installed the aluminum panels for the pedal box:
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Installed the master cylinders:
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Everything went rather well on this section of the install.

[EngineeringHiggy]

Installed the rear brakes:
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Installed the tires and wheels.
This is the first time that the Cobra touched the ground!
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[EngineeringHiggy]

Hours tracked for engine build:
8/31/19: Purchase and take apart original Craigslist engine - 4.5
9/21: Delivery of new DSS engine, remove original black paint, primer gray and paint blue - 5
9/23: Install rotating kit - 7
9/24: Removed piston and tried honing out cylinder - 5.5
9/25: Cleaning, inspecting block. Decided that this block couldn't be used - 3.5
Subtotal: 17.5 hours wasted on two original blocks

11/20: Received second new DSS engine - 2
11/21: Stripped old paint, primer gray, painted new block blue - 8
11/22: Took parts out of old DSS block - 3.5
11/28: Installed crank, bearings, pistons, rods, girdle, cam and oil pan - 8.5
12/1: Installed crank damper/harmonic balancer, alternator, pulleys - 9
12/2: Heads installed - 3
12/4: Installed flywheel, pressure plate - 6
12/5: Installed rocker arms, hydraulic lifters, measured rod height - 8.5
12/7: Attached transmission, installed engine and transmission into Cobra body - 5.5
12/8: Installed intake manifold, carb, fuel lines, valve covers, distributor, headers - 8
12/9: Cut off transmission mounting boss, attached fuel lines, installed spark plugs - 4
12/10: Installed new pulleys, added engine oil - 4.5
Subtotal: 70.5 hours

Total: 88 hours


Took a vacation from work and got a lot of work done and took a bunch of pictures.
Still missing a lot of parts such as rear calipers, misc. brake parts, radiator, etc which is holding me up a little, but overall, I'm doing well and made a lot of progress.

The next step in the build manual is to get the engine installed. I've had all the engine parts except for the block. I ordered the block quite a while ago, but still waiting for it to be shipped from Summit Racing. I'm in a holding pattern right now.
The block was on backorder from Summit Racing and finally received it around the middle of November.

Received my Cobra R Heavy Duty Tremec transmission from Summit Racing and it looks cool. Anxious to get it hooked up to the engine.

Went back and forth between ordering a fully built and tested engine from Blueprint Engines or building my own.
Wanted to be involved in building every aspect of my car so I decided to build my own 351W stroker to 427 engine.

Made some mistakes...
I bought this used 351W from Craigslist for $450.00 and the guy said that he didn't know anything about it.
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Took the Craigslist block apart and measured the cylinders and found that they were already bored 0.060 which was too much for what I wanted to use it for as a stroker.
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Lost $450.00

Next, I purchased a DSS Level 20 Race 351W from Summit Racing for $1325.00. Very nice cast iron block with 0.040 finished bored cylinders, 9.5" deck height, aligned honed main bearings, everything CNC'd and shaved deck and redone cam bores and bearings, threaded freeze plugs
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Ordered all of the engine parts including the 351W to 427 stroker rotating kit from Summit Racing.
All parts were high performance street racing parts for the SBF 427.
All of the parts looked great except for the crankshaft from Eagle.
The crank was delivered to my home in a thin cardboard box without ANY protective shipping material. The crank wore holes right through the box from rolling around during delivery.
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To no one's surprise, I was very upset!
The next day, I called Eagle. The person I spoke to understood my concern and said that was the way they ship them with no packing protection!
He asked if there was any damage to the crank and I said none to the naked eye, but I couldn't tell if there was any hairline cracks, etc to the crankshaft that would show up later.

I started putting the rotating kit into the new DSS block and scratched one of the cylinder walls too deep to recover.
Tried honing it out to no avail.
Lost another $1325.00
My mistakes are getting rather expensive.

Purchased another Level 20 block from Summit Racing.
Removed the original black paint, de-greased the outside and cleaned it with Eastwood's prep.
Painted it with two coats of primer and Ford Blue from Eastwood. Looks great.
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Took my time putting this one together.
Added a girdle for stability.
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[EngineeringHiggy]

Continued the engine build by installing the heads:
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Installed the rocker arms and hydraulic lifters:
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Installed the engine and transmission into the Cobra body:
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Attached the intake manifold, carb, distributor and misc needed items:
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[EngineeringHiggy]

Installed the polished stainless side exhaust.
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Attached the rollbars
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Purchased dark blue vinyl to offset all of the black in the cockpit and to try and match the color that the body will be painted.
Installed the vinyl and gauges, connected all of the electrical wiring and tested that all of the gauges and switches work.
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Tried starting the engine for the first time.
Couldn't believe it, but it started up as soon as I turned the key. It actually startled me because I didn't expect it to happen that easily. :)
Must have had the TDC and timing correct.
Ran it for about 10-15 minutes and everything sounded awesome.
Go-Cart stage...accomplished.

Can't wait to get it on the road.

[Railroad]

Congrats on your progress and the first start. My engine, although not a push rod, started like yours. I was shocked. Everything looks great. Great pics!

[EngineeringHiggy]

Drilled rivet holes and used Cleco's on transmission tunnel and driver's side footbox:
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Installed the mechanical linkage for the accelerator:
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[EngineeringHiggy]

Installed body onto the frame:
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Even though the engine/transmission mounts are good and are properly in place:
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It looks like the headers don't match up with the body cutouts:
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I've read some previous posts and they say that hopefully, I won't have to cut out too much of the body to get the side pipes to fit...hoping for the best.

[Ducky2009]

Body cutout for side pipes.

Before you cut too much, do a few checks. I installed the headers (with wheels on and frame somewhat leveled) and measured from the ground to the bottom bolt of the headers. Found that the engine was not level. Shifted it as far as the slots at the frame engine mount slots/bolts would allow. Still wasn't enough and ended up enlarging the slots on the DS frame (approx 1/8") to allow the engine to move... making the headers level to the floor. I paid for the body cutouts from FFR. Leveling the headers minimized the additional body material removal needed.

NOTE: You also need to read up on body position on the frame (front to back) before removing material.

[EngineeringHiggy]

Thank you Ducky!
I will definitely follow your advice.
Also, we positioned the body front to back according to the manual, but I will go back and verify it before doing any cutting :)