Starter relays and solenoids...

[aarvig]

Hey guys, I wanted to ask the brain trust about this. It seems most older Ford setups have a relay and a starter solenoid. I have a 427w with a hi-torque mini-starter that has the starter solenoid on the starter. I also have a one wire alternator (not sure this matters). I have been told it is not necessary to install a relay, just to wire the battery main to the starter solenoid along with the harness main power line and the alternator wire. The ignition wire is supposed to be going to the smaller stud on the starter solenoid. Does this sound correct?

[edwardb]

The mini-starter with an integrated solenoid doesn't need the traditional firewall mounted solenoid. You can gather all the other wires at the starter solenoid (e.g. harness power, alternator) but I prefer to gather them on the firewall with either a binding post or a master disconnect. The small terminal on the starter should have the +12V from your ignition switch start terminal. Not sure if that's what you mean by "ignition wire."

[aarvig]

Edwardb! As always, thank you for the help!

[CDXXVII]

During my build I never good a really good feel as to whether or not I needed the extra solenoid given that the mini starter already has one. In either case, I went ahead and installed one along with a kill switch and it has helped keep my wiring clean. In my case it all gets a powder coated cover to match the rest of my engine bay aluminum so you can not see any of it any ways.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78008&d=1513874677

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119118&d=1576646274

[CraigS]

I like to bring the battery cable to something like this mounted somewhere in the firewall or passenger foot box area
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--power-post-single-terminal-connectors--P009_273_004_010?recordNum=84
and then run a cable to the starter. The stud is long enough for other cables like the alternator. I really hate having more than one battery cable at the starter because there just isn't room. If you feel you might need power sources for some extra accessories one of these works well
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--st-blade-compact-4-circuit-fuse-block--17054206?recordNum=161

[Big Blocker]

What CraigS posted - both excellent choices for what you want to do . . .

Doc

[AC Bill]

The remote relay was especially popular with donor builds, using donor wire harness's. It was/is, also used as an "always hot" source for power for accessories, etc. I think it was also touted as a means of preventing starter run on, which seemed to happen from tine to time, to builders who didn't use the remote relay. I'm not sure why that even happened, it may have had something to do with the donor engine starters.

[CraigS]

To add a little for others who may read this thread. If you use the firewall solenoid be sure to wire it like this.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4416/35607748264_19739e8e07_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wfx21d)mini-starterwiring (https://flic.kr/p/Wfx21d) by craig stuard (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/), on Flickr
This is from the Ford instructions on how to upgrade an older Mustang from the old style starter to the new one (mini starter). It essentially turns the firewall solenoid into a huge relay.