First autocross! Fail!

[Caddy Dad]

I've decided to start a build thread so that other newbies can learn from my adventures and also to serve as a kind of peer review from all the talented and helpful builders out there. I called FFR today and Dave B said they were pulling my parts as we spoke so I'm guessing Stewart transportation will be calling soon with a delivery date and asking for me to spend more money :-).

I've been itching to do this project for a long time. Initially, I wanted to restore a 66 Mustang or a 240Z like I had in college but most of the cars I could find were rust buckets needing a lot more metal work than I could handle. Instead, I decided that the FFR Roadster is going to scratch that itch just fine. I know there is going to be a huge learning curve to get over but like most journeys of a 1000 miles, it starts with a first step. I joined this forum a while back and read through several build threads to get a feel of the scope of work involved and talent required. Then I started hanging out at my local cars and coffee. Met several Mk IV owners (a few Superformance and Backdraft owners too!) and started asking questions. I then took advantage of some cheap summer airfare and visited the FFR factory. I tried on all of the cars in the showroom to see what fit me best (I'm 6'2" 200 lbs). The FIA MK IV Roadster they had fit me like a glove. Jim Schenck wandered into the showroom and I pestered him with more newbie questions. Dan G then came out and gave us the factory tour. Geez they were busy! I didn't even try to get in the coupe they had in the showroom. I was worried I might not be able to get back out without asking for help and making a scene. Turns out my fears were over cautious. After my factory tour, I reached out to a couple of local builders in my area, VAHokie and Boss 427. They were at opposite ends of the build sequence so that gave me a lot of insight into where to start and how to finish. Thanks guys! I then went to the build school where I got a few more assembly tips and more hands on experience. It was money well spent and I think I graduated Cum Laude ;-)

Up to this point I had only sat in a Mk IV. But what really sealed the deal for me was that on the way home from the build school I stopped off at EdwardB house to check out his gorgeous 20th anniversary Roadster. After about 1.5 hours of Paul being very patient and me asking more newbie questions, Paul asked if I wanted to go for a ride. Heck Yeah! It was a fabulous riding car and the product of a true craftsman. The power, sound and handling were unlike any car I've ever ridden in. I was hooked after that. All of the builders I've met to date really set a high bar. I just hope I can come close to the level of what they've created and pay it forward when I can.

Enough rambling. Here is what my build is going to look like:
Complete Kit
Powder coating
Power Steering
Hydraulic clutch
Dual roll bars
IRS
Wilwood brakes
Leather steering wheel
17" Halibrand wheels
Competition dash
Usual breeze upgrades

For the go pedal:
Blue Print Engines 347
Tremec TKO600
Hydraulic release bearing

Boss 427 has been a big help. He dropped off the chassis dolly for me. Looks like I'll be builder #3 on it

I'll also started to tool up my garage and work shop. At the build school, one of the other students highly recommended the cordless Milwaukee Rivet gun. I picked one up and so far it seems to work great.
Pictures to follow.

Thanks to all who care to follow along on my adventures (and misadventures!)

Frank Smith

[Traveller]

Welcome to the adventure, Frank. I'm only a few months ahead of you but it wouldn't surprise me if you pass me as life seems to keep getting in the way of shop time...

I look forward to watching your build progress.

-Jason

[Straversi]

Welcome. Look forward to following along.
-Steve

[VAHokie]

Congrats, Frank. Look forward to following along!

[edwardb]

Way to go. Congratulations on your order and upcoming delivery. Doesn't look like I completely sold you on the Coyote power (:rolleyes:) but I tried. Enjoy the build and will be interested to watch your progress.

[Caddy Dad]

LOL! Yes, that was a hard decision for me to make. The Coyote is a fantastic engine and if I ever build another car, it'll definitely be Coyote powered. But, lets get through this build first.

[Yama-Bro]

Congrats and welcome to the club! Glad to see another Frank out there (I'm one too).

[Caddy Dad]

The first big box showed up today from BPE. 347 stroker, TKO 600 and hydraulic release bearing, 423 HP, 429 Ft lbs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119687&d=1577736458
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119688&d=1577736476

BPE even removed the mounting boss on the transmission for me. Thanks Johnny! I was really impressed with the shipping crate and packaging that Blueprint did. Lots of wiring, hoses and miscellaneous parts in the fuel accessories box. Not exactly sure where all those go yet, but I've got some time to figure it out.

The next big delivery should be this week.

[GoDadGo]

Sweeeeeeet Delivery Caddddy Dad!

Welcome Aboard Brother!

[KDubU]

Nice engine! Can’t go wrong with the 347.

[Caddy Dad]

Today was the big day! Kelly from Stewart trucking showed up right on time this AM with a truck load of parts. My neighborhood is a little tricky getting into and he had to back all the way in and around a corner. Good thing he was AZ trucker of the year! I told him I once drove a U-Haul and could help him if he needed it. ;-)

A super nice guy and his next stops were NC, SC, FL, and OK.

I completed the inventory today and most parts were in the boxes they were supposed to be in. The POL list is mainly most of the IRS except for center section, the fuel tank cover and a few miscellaneous small parts. I did notice I only got one brake fluid reservoir. I thought I was going to get two. Also the pedals didn't come with the pads. Is that something extra? I was thinking that should have been included. I'll have to double check box 19 and 21 again as they seem to be the catch all boxes that the last few parts got thrown into.

Some assembly required!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119860&thumb=1&d=1578003579
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119861&thumb=1&d=1578003592
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119862&thumb=1&d=1578003604

[BradCraig]

Congrats! I just spoke with Kelly about an hour ago, he'll be at my house at 8:00 in the am. He ran out of hours and had to park it.

[bobm488]

Today was the big day! Kelly from Stewart trucking showed up right on time this AM with a truck load of parts. My neighborhood is a little tricky getting into and he had to back all the way in and around a corner. Good thing he was AZ trucker of the year! I told him I once drove a U-Haul and could help him if he needed it. ;-)

A super nice guy and his next stops were NC, SC, FL, and OK.

I completed the inventory today and most parts were in the boxes they were supposed to be in. The POL list is mainly most of the IRS except for center section, the fuel tank cover and a few miscellaneous small parts. I did notice I only got one brake fluid reservoir. I thought I was going to get two. Also the pedals didn't come with the pads. Is that something extra? I was thinking that should have been included. I'll have to double check box 19 and 21 again as they seem to be the catch all boxes that the last few parts got thrown into.

Some assembly required!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119860&thumb=1&d=1578003579
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119861&thumb=1&d=1578003592
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119862&thumb=1&d=1578003604

My Fuel tank liner was in the same box as the fuel tank.
Yes you should have pedals pads.
The kits only come with one reservoir.

[Boydster]

We need to work on your picture posting before you get too far into your build thread.

Excited for you, Frank. Gimee a holler if ya need a hand.

[Caddy Dad]

Oh, don't worry. I will definitely need a hand! Especially when it comes to engine/tranny install. I'm already scratching my head on where all the connections go.
BTW, I want to replace my firewall with a thicker panel from FF Metals. Did you go with the Firewall Forward mod or just a thicker panel?

Thanks!

[TMartinLVNV]

The first big box showed up today from BPE. 347 stroker, TKO 600 and hydraulic release bearing, 423 HP, 429 Ft lbs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119687&d=1577736458
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119688&d=1577736476

BPE even removed the mounting boss on the transmission for me. Thanks Johnny! I was really impressed with the shipping crate and packaging that Blueprint did. Lots of wiring, hoses and miscellaneous parts in the fuel accessories box. Not exactly sure where all those go yet, but I've got some time to figure it out.

The next big delivery should be this week.

That engine looks really sweet! Nice garage floor too.

[Caddy Dad]

I dove into the build this weekend. I discovered a few more parts that I'm missing that are checked off as being on the shipping list but aren't. I'm also discovering that as I start to assemble some components I'm missing a few critical pieces that bring progress to a halt (i.e. power steering mounting bolts) Sigh. I'll make a call to FFR on Monday and let them know the parts I'm missing.

Regardless I was able to drill and cleco the engine bay panels. I then removed them, de-burred the holes, broke sharp edges with scotch brite and prepped them for the powder coater this week.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120116&thumb=1&d=1578275204
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120117&thumb=1&d=1578275221
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120118&thumb=1&d=1578275237

I then prepped the LCA by lightly scoring the bushings per a tip from the build school. The DS was a PIA to install even after tweaking the mounting mount bracket width. The PS went in with no complaints!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120120&thumb=1&d=1578275278

The LCA also have a dust cap for the zerk fitting. First time I've ever seen that. A nice touch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120121&thumb=1&d=1578275295

I then tried to assemble the front and rear shocks but found I was missing the Delrin washers. I also had one coil over threaded sleeve that would just not allow the spring seat to thread on. Jammed after a few threads. I tried cleaning the threads but No Joy. Also, what tool do people use to adjust the spring seat? Those are both on my list to discuss with FFR.

I then moved on to assemble the UCA. As most people have discovered the upper ball joints that come with the kit, just go in a few threads and then jam up tight. The Howe ball joints went in like butter (added blue locktite as per directions). I tightened them the best I could in the bench vise as depicted in the book. However when I tried to adjust the trailing sleeve to the spec called out in the book (7.375") the best I could get was 7.5" I've read where others have trimmed the sleeve while others have not. Will 7.5" be enough? Will I need to trim? Any insight here would be appreciated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120119&thumb=1&d=1578275261

I then got motivated and tried to see how the power steering rack would fit with the Breeze bushings and Moog tie rods. I opened the bag with the power steering parts and.... No bolts or nuts. Sigh.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120122&thumb=1&d=1578275313

Not willing to give up so easily, I then decided to take a look at the front hubs. What's the best way to remove the ring gear around the inside of the hub? Or do I just leave it alone?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120123&thumb=1&d=1578275328

So I just called it a day from there and figured it was time to grab a beer, think about the last two days and what I need to work on this week.

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

That engine looks really sweet! Nice garage floor too.

Oh man I know! I'm really looking forward to firing it up and hearing the lumpy idle. I had the floors done professionally a few years back by Granite Garage floors. It's held up really well. The only problem is when I drop a small nut or washer it disappears!

[edwardb]

- Your steering rack mounting bolts should be with the other suspension hardware. The box-by-box listing is your friend to find specific parts. I'll bet you find them listed there and in that box. Not necessarily with power steering components.

- Hard to say whether that UCA adjuster should be trimmed. Like you said, some get away with not trimming, others don't. Many preemptively go ahead and trim it now to save disassembly down the road. Doesn't hurt to be trimmed even if not actually needed. Or you could wait and see when doing your alignment. Whatever is your preference.

- If you want to remove that toothed ring on the front hubs (it's a tone ring for an ABS wheel speed sensor), cut it most of the way through with a cut off wheel or even a Dremel (that's what I've used) then hit the cut with a screwdriver and it will break and pop right off. It's hard and brittle. I suspect it's installed by heating/expanding. So nearly impossible to get off without breaking it off. At least that's my experience.

BTW, your pictures are really tiny. Just thumbnails I think.

[Caddy Dad]

I'll keep looking for the mounting bolts. Yes, I think I need to spend more time with my box by box listing. I may go ahead and trim them this week while waiting for the panels to come back. I didn't even think about cutting the tone ring, but that's a great idea. I'll take a look at it this week after I buy a new dremel tool. My old one of 25+ years finally died on me today. :(

Yes, I'm picture challenged on this forum and still learning
120128

[Joynt Venture]

Just wandered into the house after an 8am delivery from Stewart with Kelly at the wheel. Great guy and a gentleman to work with. Headed to build school in a week or so. Plan on fine tooth inventory before that. Enjoy your build! I know I will!

[Caddy Dad]

Cool! Enjoy the build school. Jim and Scott were my instructors. It was fun and gave me more insight into all the pieces that go together to make a fun project.

Frank

[BradCraig]

I dove into the build this weekend. I discovered a few more parts that I'm missing that are checked off as being on the shipping list but aren't. I'm also discovering that as I start to assemble some components I'm missing a few critical pieces that bring progress to a halt (i.e. power steering mounting bolts) Sigh. I'll make a call to FFR on Monday and let them know the parts I'm missing.

Regardless I was able to drill and cleco the engine bay panels. I then removed them, de-burred the holes, broke sharp edges with scotch brite and prepped them for the powder coater this week.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120116&thumb=1&d=1578275204
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120117&thumb=1&d=1578275221
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120118&thumb=1&d=1578275237

I then prepped the LCA by lightly scoring the bushings per a tip from the build school. The DS was a PIA to install even after tweaking the mounting mount bracket width. The PS went in with no complaints!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120120&thumb=1&d=1578275278

The LCA also have a dust cap for the zerk fitting. First time I've ever seen that. A nice touch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120121&thumb=1&d=1578275295

I then tried to assemble the front and rear shocks but found I was missing the Delrin washers. I also had one coil over threaded sleeve that would just not allow the spring seat to thread on. Jammed after a few threads. I tried cleaning the threads but No Joy. Also, what tool do people use to adjust the spring seat? Those are both on my list to discuss with FFR.

I then moved on to assemble the UCA. As most people have discovered the upper ball joints that come with the kit, just go in a few threads and then jam up tight. The Howe ball joints went in like butter (added blue locktite as per directions). I tightened them the best I could in the bench vise as depicted in the book. However when I tried to adjust the trailing sleeve to the spec called out in the book (7.375") the best I could get was 7.5" I've read where others have trimmed the sleeve while others have not. Will 7.5" be enough? Will I need to trim? Any insight here would be appreciated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120119&thumb=1&d=1578275261

I then got motivated and tried to see how the power steering rack would fit with the Breeze bushings and Moog tie rods. I opened the bag with the power steering parts and.... No bolts or nuts. Sigh.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120122&thumb=1&d=1578275313

Not willing to give up so easily, I then decided to take a look at the front hubs. What's the best way to remove the ring gear around the inside of the hub? Or do I just leave it alone?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120123&thumb=1&d=1578275328

So I just called it a day from there and figured it was time to grab a beer, think about the last two days and what I need to work on this week.

Thanks!

On the ball joints, the problem is with the powder coating on the threads on the UCA's. Knock that off the threads with a small wire wheel and they will thread right in. Note also that the steering rack hardware was in another box for me.

[Caddy Dad]

I worked on a few more small tasks today. I dropped off 21 panels at the powder coater today. Their matt black sample chip seemed to match the FFR powder coating closely. It's the first time I've used this company but they promised a 7-10 day turnaround and at $19 a panel it seemed like a good price. We'll see how they turn out.

I also followed EdwardB advice and took my dremel tool to the tone ring on the front hubs. 15 seconds with the dremel and then a nice tap with a hammer and screw driver, they were off! No muss no fuss. Thanks Paul!

I also fitted the drive shaft adapter to the IRS to ensure the bolt holes would line up. I was a little worried because the parts list calls it out as an automatic transmission adapter. It fit perfect. While the IRS was out of the box, I hit it with some clear to protect it from dirt and corrosion. I think it looks pretty cool with the manufacturing and inspections marks on it.

120225

[Boydster]

Oh, don't worry. I will definitely need a hand! Especially when it comes to engine/tranny install. I'm already scratching my head on where all the connections go.
BTW, I want to replace my firewall with a thicker panel from FF Metals. Did you go with the Firewall Forward mod or just a thicker panel?

Thanks!

I got the thicker FF panel, stock location.

[Caddy Dad]

I worked on a few more tasks today. The powder coater called and said my parts were finished. A 3 day turn around. Not bad! The matt black matches perfectly to the chassis. All of the cockpit panels came back in one box but it was easy to fit all the pieces back together.
120382

I then installed the F panels and inserted 10-24 Rivnuts in the elephant ears as suggested. (following EdwardB playbook). I then temporarily installed the ears with #10 SS screws and washers. I'm really liking the silver and black look of the rivets and screws.
120383

120384

The Milwaukee cordless rivet gun made quick work pulling the rivets
120385

I also came up with a simple method for labeling and identifying the panels before I send them to the powder coater. Maybe somebody has already done this but here is what I did. I use a thick Sharpie and write on the panel the part name, number and placement/fitment of tabs as I take them apart. I then take a picture and store it on my PC. I then prep the panels by deburring, breaking sharp edges, etc and wiping down with Acetone. The markings come right off and the panels are ready to be powder coated.
120386

I now have to decide if I want to get the rest of the panels powder coated or just hit them with some kind of bedliner since most of them will never be seen unless the car is on a lift. What do most people do?

I'm still waiting on POL list and the missing delrin washers. Once I get those, I can finish up the front suspension and check off my first milestone.

Cheers!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Just an FYI: all of your photos come back as "Invalid attachment"

Jeff

[Caddy Dad]

That's strange. Seemed to be working yesterday.
Picture test:
120388

[Straversi]

I couldn’t open your photos in posts 17 and 26. The photo in the last post worked.
-Steve

[Caddy Dad]

Here is a re-post of the pictures from #26

Engine bay
120423

F Panel
120424

Elephant ear
120425

Rivet gun
120426

[Jeff Kleiner]

Pictures show up now; looks good!

I'd caution you about leaving that painter's tape on for very long---I got one in for paint that had had it left on past it's recommended time and the owner was having a Bi*** of a time getting it off. Personally I don't use it and fail to see the need but that's just me...

Jeff

[Papa]

Pictures show up now; looks good!

I'd caution you about leaving that painter's tape on for very long---I got one in for paint that had had it left on past it's recommended time and the owner was having a Bi*** of a time getting it off. Personally I don't use it and fail to see the need but that's just me...

Jeff

I'll second Jeff's caution! I taped up my chassis in the engine compartment for a couple of months and it took me a couple of hours to get all that stuff off.

[Caddy Dad]

Pictures show up now; looks good!

I'd caution you about leaving that painter's tape on for very long---I got one in for paint that had had it left on past it's recommended time and the owner was having a Bi*** of a time getting it off. Personally I don't use it and fail to see the need but that's just me...

Jeff

I agree. It was getting in the way today so I just took it off. If I scratch the powder coat, I'll just have to touch it up
Thanks for the feed back

[Caddy Dad]

I work on a few more items today. As many others before have found out, there is always something to work on. Gotta keep making progress while waiting on POL and MIK (Missing In Kit) parts to show up. The Wilwood brakes were delivered earlier this week so I decided to mount the hubs to the rotors and safety wire them. These rotors are massive! Per the instructions, I added Locktite and torqued each bolt to 155 In Lbs. I then moved on to safety wiring them. How hard can it be? After about an hour and a little help from Google I realized I had wired 4 of them backwards! Ugh. I think Charlie Taylor was rolling over in his grave! (Bonus points to those who know who Charlie was) I removed the wires and started over. The first re-wire took about 15 minutes but I quickly got the hang of it and by the time I got to the fourth rotor, I could do a wire in less than 5 minutes. Actually, it was a lot of fun learning a new skill and putting it to good use.

120448

120449

I also got an email from FFR on what the power steering mounting hardware looks like and which box it might be in. With that help, I was able to locate it easily. It was in a bag inside another bag for steering components that I set aside for later install. Anyway, I was able to install the power steering unit and the Breeze offset bushings without too much fuss. I needed to add a few shims (washers) on each side but it went in fine.

Power steering mounted but not torqued down yet.
120450

I plan on working on the RT drop trunk mod next and drilling more aluminum panels

Thanks!

[edwardb]

I agree. It was getting in the way today so I just took it off. If I scratch the powder coat, I'll just have to touch it up
Thanks for the feed back

I've used the painters tape and not had any trouble with it coming right back off after many months. But I defer to others who have had issues. My garage shop never gets terribly cold or hot, so perhaps that makes a difference. Maybe I'm the only one that drops tools, parts, etc. or is just plain clumsy. So I prefer some type of protection and even the best touch-ups are often visible. Another option that I've seen some use, and used quite a bit on my Coupe build, was foam pipe insulation from Home Depot/Lowes. Comes in several sizes, is really cheap, and with a wrap of tape every couple feet (that never touches the chassis) stays in place pretty well. I had it mainly on the top rails of my Coupe build, plus the roll bars, since those are what were in the firing line of my work. Has since graduated to shelf storage since the body is on. But did the job for me.

[Caddy Dad]

I spent the afternoon finishing up a few minor tasks and then got organized for the install of the IRS differential. Following the EdwardB playbook I bought a couple 5/8 x 5" bolts and ground a taper in them to resemble a drift pin. I don't have a bench grinder so I went at it with a 4" angle grinder. They're not pretty but they worked really well. They also came in handy installing the Toe Arms, LCAs and UCAs.

120625

I then got the differential set up on my motorcycle lift and shop crane. Using techniques from EdwardB and Kool AC, I was able to rig it up with 3 ratchet straps, lift it vertically, tilt it back horizontal and then lower it down with out too much grumbling from my helper (teenage daughter who is home and winter break). I little wiggling, grunting and a few smacks on the drift pins and it was in! It went in easier than I was expecting.

120626
120627

I then proceeded to tighten down the mounting bolts. After I got all four bolts to torque spec, I found that I have a gap on the rear DS ear and the front PS ear. Am I going to need shims for these?
120629
120630

I then moved on and mounted the toe arms. The Toe arms were assembled per the drawing, but for some reason there were some extra parts in the bag when I got done; two bolts and 2 RH jam nuts. Does FFR do this on occasion? I checked and double checked the drawing and the parts list. Best I can guess is that they threw in some bonus parts? Seems odd to me.
120631

I installed the toe arms with a little tweaking to the mounting ears and then moved onto the Lower Control Arms. A little bit more tweaking and a few whacks with my new drift pins and the LCAs went in without a fuss.

Feeling bold, I then tried to assemble the Upper Control Arms and quickly got stopped in my tracks. I tried to thread in the bushing the UCAs but they only go in about a 1/2 inch before binding up hard. Looking at the threads, I'm guessing it was tapped then welded together, and something happened in the process. Now the sleeves won't thread in. I tried cleaning the threads with scotchbrite but that did nothing to help the situation. So now I'm thinking the threads will need to be chased with a tap. Does anyone know what size tap should be used? I know its at least and inch if not more in diameter. Any insight or different tachnique would be appreciated.
120632

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

Seems like the forum disruptions the other day broke the links to my pictures. Reposting here

Drift pins
120740

IRS install
120741
120742

DS IRS gap
120743

PS IRS gap
120744

I've since heard back from FFR tech support and they said the gaps are fine. The 4 bolts bottom out on the sleeves inside the bushings. The IRS is not going anywhere

Bonus parts
120745

Thanks!

[Boydster]

Glad ya got it in!~ Sorry I wasnt able to help...

[Caddy Dad]

No worries. I've got plenty of other tasks that I'm definitely going to need your help. Maybe even look over what I've done to make sure I didn't overlook something, or install backwards. :confused:

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

I spent a few more hours today working on the front and rear suspension, plus a trip the the local HF for a new torque wrench and my local Ace for a few nuts and bolts.

I ordered a 1.25-12 tap to chase the threads on the IRS UCAs and it showed up early this AM. It worked perfect and I was able to get the adjusting bung to thread in smoothly now.
120787

I then made a trip to my local HF to pick up a torque wrench that went to 225 -250 Ft Lbs. The lady at the checkout asked what in the world I was going to be using it for. I explained it was needed to mount the front hubs and then asked if she wanted to help. Her and the other staff bust out in laughter as they all know she's not very good with tools!

I torqued the hubs to spec (with a lot of grunting) and then moved on to installing the IRS UCAs No issues there. Torqued all bolts and lubed all fittings on the IRS. The rest of the IRS is next on my list.

I then installed the front Wilwood brakes. They needed one 0.04 shim to get centered. Installation was straight forward and a non event. Here is a few pics of the front end so far. The pivot nuts on the UCA are just finger tight as I have not yet done a rough adjustment yet. The power steering rack and tie rods are also finger tight awaiting the steering shaft and bearing installation.
120788
120789

A good days work!

[Caddy Dad]

Spent some more time in the garage this week. With the help of a friend, we were able to press out the rear hub studs and press in the new 1/2-20 studs without too much trouble. This allowed me to finish up the rear suspension install and rear Wilwood brakes. The left and rear drive shafts needed a little persuasion to get completely seated in the IRS differential but seated in just fine. I then installed the brakes and parking brakes, torqued everything to spec and marked bolts accordingly. I then ran the parking brake cable and noticed that the cable just kinda sits in the bottom bracket. Shouldn't there be a clip or something to hold it in place? The manual doesn't call out anything and the Wilwood directions are silent on it too. The Wilwood caliber e-brake adapters are made of mild steel and already had a nice coating of rust so I cleaned those up and hit them with a coat of POR-15.

IRS and rear brakes complete.
121117

Rear E-brakes missing a clip? What holds these in place? Upper E-Brake adapter is in paint.
121118

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

Lots of progress and lots of challenges since my last update. I spent a lot of time working on the RT drop trunk mod. I quickly realized I can't cut a straight line with my jig saw or cutting blade on my 4" angle grinder so I had to come up with a better plan. Fortunately, I intend on covering the trunk with carpet so I'm hoping most of my mistakes will be covered up.

I rough cut an expanded opening for the fuel pump per Boss 427 Build. Then I used my wood working skills and set up a flat square jig for my router to use.
121695
121696

I then cut a panel cover from the excess material removed from the drop trunk mod. I rounded the corners and then secured with 10-24 rivnuts
121697

I moved on to installing the EdwardB parking brake mod with the Lokar clevis. I read his thread a couple of times and this looked like something easy to do. 6 hours later I finally had it installed. Whew, my metal working skills are no where near his. Regardless, I am learning new skills and I was able to get it installed and seems to be working quite nicely. The wheels lock up nice and tight. I'll keep an eye on the brake cables and adjust as necessary.
121698
121699


Finally, my wheels showed up today, so I had to try them on for a fit check.
121700
121701

Next up are fuel system and brake lines. Fun times ahead!

[VAHokie]

You're making great progress, Frank!

[Caddy Dad]

You're making great progress, Frank!

Thanks! Yes, being retired allows me to work on it each day (doing on line research, running to the Ace or Fastenal for hardware, ordering parts, etc) As you know there is always something to work on.

[Boydster]

Nice! I like how you're getting the pieces out of different builds to build your own, unique car that is what you want.

[Caddy Dad]

Fuel system, brake lines and more.
Making more progress. My fuel hanger, fuel pump and filter showed up last week from Pro-M. I opened the boxes and no instructions, so off I went to their web site for tech support. Nothing too helpful there so I tried calling them but got voice mail. Oh well, how hard can it be? Turns out its pretty darn hard if you've never done it before! I had the hanger and fuel pump apart several time before I got it assemble correctly and so that the sock would stay on. Then I modified the fuel tank so that I can get the fuel pump inserted. No way that thing was going in without a bigger opening. Anyway, after several hours I was able to get it assembled. What a PIA.

I labeled the supply and return lines so I won't get confused in the future.
121925

I also mounted the filter with 4 SS 5/16 SS bolts. I had to flip the mounting bracket upside down to mount it.
121926

Next I decided to try my hand at bending the Ni-Copp hard fuel lines. I bought 4 5' sections from NAPA and quickly went through two of them making bends where I didn't want them to be. Sigh. Eventually I got to something that looks acceptable. Note the ruined lines on the floor.
121927

I then finished up this section with cushion clamps rivnutted to the frame. I need to buy two more sticks of Ni-Copp and I'll finish off the front section.
121928

I also made a trip to Lowes and picked up some parts for the charcoal fuel vent. The pet store had these nice charcoal packets in a mesh filter which seemed ideal to fit in my snappy canister.
121929
Here is a picture of the outlet.

I tested it by trying to blow through it. It takes a little bit (not much though) of effort. How much back pressure should there be?
121931

121930

I also fabricated a bracket to mount the brake reservoirs on. I staggered the mounts to achieve ~1.25" spacing between the canisters.
121932
121933

I plan on mounting the bracket to the bottom of the 3/4 tube with rivnuts. How close to the pedal box should they be mounted? I was thinking of just splitting the distance between the F panel and the pedal box. Does it matter?

Thanks for reading!

[edwardb]

You're making great progress. One hint. Watch the location of where you're mounting those reservoirs. Too far forward and you'll interfere with the hood gas struts when the hood is closed. Keep the reservoirs inside 12-inches max (a little less is OK :p) from the corner of the footbox where it meets the top chassis rail. Can't tell if yours are that far forward, but maybe. Something to check. Mine are well back from the max, but you can see I kept them back by the footboxes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/.highres/IMG_1055_zpsc0bciqmm.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/2bfbdca8-c76e-493f-8bfb-108cd8f44fd4)

[Caddy Dad]

Hi Paul,
I didn't even think about the hood gas struts. I haven't permanently mounted the reservoirs yet, so I'll take a look at mounting them as close as I can to the footbox.

Thanks for the insight, I appreciate it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I didn't even think about the hood gas struts.

Lots of guys don't. They also overlook the same possibility of interference when mounting the coolant overflow tank on the other side so keep that in mind too.

Cheers,
Jeff

[edwardb]

Lots of guys don't. They also overlook the same possibility of interference when mounting the coolant overflow tank on the other side so keep that in mind too.

Cheers,
Jeff

Good point Jeff. You can see the power steering reservoir in the picture I posted. Similar placement as the coolant overflow tank in many cases. It's in the area of the hood gas struts on that side, but placed low enough that it doesn't interfere.

[Caddy Dad]

A major milestone achieved!
I reached a major milestone today with the final install of the brake lines, bleeding and a firm pedal. This part was the one I was most dreading because I'm not very good at bending brake lines and I wanted them to look good and not have any suspect joints or parts for me to worry about. I really struggled with running the lines to the front brakes. If I didn't like the way it looked or I made a bad bend, I'd rip them out and start over. Lots of re-work here and several trips to parts store for more brake line.

I mounted the reservoirs as close to the pedal box as I could. I used a piece of .090 Aluminum that I brushed to a nice finish then hit it with some clear POR-15
122347

I then ran the supplied tubing to each of the master cylinders. I used a neat trick I learned at build school to lace together hoses, wires, etc using zip ties. I thought it came out nice
122348

I then bent some tubing to run the brake line out the side and down the 3/4 tube.
122349
122350

Then across the front and into the PS brake just as many others have done. Lots of do overs here!
122351
122352
122353

I then ran the rear brake line out the front through a existing hole in the front of the pedal box and down the front.
122354

Under the DS, up the rear 2x3 box to the mount behind the rear shock.
122355

Then it was straight shot across the PS. I cut a length of tubing and put pig tails in each end. I also use two cushion clamps to keep down vibration.
122356

[Caddy Dad]

Milestone continued.

Rear PS side pigtail
122357

Prior to installing each line I rinsed it out with a good shot of brake cleaner and then blew them out with air. I then started the flush and bleeding. I used a pressure bleeder, I bleed kit from Eastwood with a one way check valve and my 20 something daughter to pump the brakes. Full disclosure here: I have bled brakes before but never Wilwood brakes. My eyes are over 60 and I always wear safety glasses when working on the car. I must've looked at the bleed screw 20 times and I couldn't resolve in my mind why Wilwood would put the brass bleed screw in such a difficult place. I could hardly get a wrench on it. After struggling for about 30 minutes, my daughter asks why I am not using the black nut on the bleed screw. What black nut? Doh!
122358

Teeny tiny bleed screw! Can you see the black nut? I couldn't until it was pointed out to me.
122359

Finally, I starting making progress. I used a clear plastic jug to catch the fluid. I couldn't believe how dirty it came out!
122360

Does anyone know why Wilwood uses such a small bleed screw? The hose from the bleed kit kept slipping off the nipple and I had to hold it on most of the time. Regardless, the brakes are nice and firm and no leaks. The pressure bleeder helped a lot but the good old fashioned way of using a friend to pump the pedal seemed to help the most. I forgot to mention that I did a bench bleed first on the MC mounted in the pedal box. I was surprised how much air came out just doing that.

Next up, electrical and dash.
Cheers!

[Papa]

Mark,

Looks great! Only one thing I can point out to you and that's the rear brake line running down the outside of the foot box. It's going to be pretty close to where your header is going to pass by. Just something to think about.

Dave

[Caddy Dad]

Mark,

Looks great! Only one thing I can point out to you and that's the rear brake line running down the outside of the foot box. It's going to be pretty close to where your header is going to pass by. Just something to think about.

Dave

Hmmm. Good point. How much clearance do you think I'll need? Maybe I can mock it up and check the spacing.

[Papa]

Hmmm. Good point. How much clearance do you think I'll need? Maybe I can mock it up and check the spacing.

Sorry,

I thought I was in Mark's build thread. The clearance will vary by header, but my header is pretty close (~1/8") to the corner of the foot box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=97685&d=1542556729

Dave

[Caddy Dad]

Sorry,

I thought I was in Mark's build thread. The clearance will vary by header, but my header is pretty close (~1/8") to the corner of the foot box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=97685&d=1542556729

Dave

Dang! That is close! I never realized it would be that tight. I'm guessing it would less that an inch to the header from where I ran my rear brake line. I may have to rethink this one. Sigh.

[edwardb]

I was going to say something about that rear brake line on the outside of the footbox as well. Agree that corner is really close to the header and should be moved. I put mine on a similar path, but inside the footbox where it's protected by the aluminum panel plus insulation. Some don't like putting the line inside the footbox. There are other paths as well. Sorry to say, you may want to think about the front line as well. Maybe OK. You'll have to decide. The upper tube is a better choice to run the line IMO vs. the lower one that is also pretty close to where the header comes out. This is my #8674 build. Coyote but still your headers will be similar. You can see where they are in relation to the footbox and that lower tube. You can also see where I ran mine on the outside of the top tube. Do overs aren't fun. But needless to say way easier at this stage.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/.highres/IMG_0467_zpscz8arbyl.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/6832ae1a-fdcb-4325-8b23-447886e9aaba)

[Caddy Dad]

Based on the previous review and comments, I decided it would be a good idea to re-route the rear brake line from outside the front of the pedal box to inside. I tried to run it down inside just to the right of the accelerator pedal, but it would have been really close to the pedal and would need some really squirrely bends to get it around a bracket. So I ran it to the outboard of the clutch pedal, out through the bottom of the DS footbox and down the 4" tube. I decided to keep the front brake line run as is for now. I may want to revisit that decision in the future, but for now I'll use as is. I then re-bled the brakes and got a nice firm pedal. I ended up adding a union I really didn't want to, but all connections look leak free at this point.

122443

I added a grommet and added some shrink tubing as an anti chafe guard where the line exits the footbox. I'll probably add a cushion clamp to support the line somewhere near the middle of the box. Blue shop towels on the floor are my leak detectors. The epoxy finish on the floor makes it really hard to see clear/light colored liquids on the floor.
122444

Thanks to all the SMEs (Subject Matter Experts) for their review and comments. I'm not sure I would be this far without their help and I know it'll will make it a better build.

[Caddy Dad]

I'm now working on electrical wiring and dash panel. I broke out the RF wiring harness and tried a fit check of the mounting panel. Something didn't look right and before I took a dremel tool to modify the panel to fit or just remounting the relay, I called RF to confirm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123283&d=1582816579

I exchanged a few pictures and sure enough, the relay was mounted in the wrong position. There is a self tapping screw holding the relay in and the relay needs to be moved to the right.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123282&d=1582816564

I just didn't want to start moving components and inserting screws into electrical mounts without some kind of confirmation from the manufacturer (prior career experience). Here is final configuration. Looks good now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123285&d=1582817184

Next up is final dash configuration and wiring.

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

I've been working on wiring the dash and installing the wiring harness. I started using the supplied switches, dash lights etc but just really didn't like the way they looked. I ordered some replacement parts and now waiting on delivery. I'll update that progress when they come in with additional picture. Meanwhile, I ran the wiring harness, installed addition wiring for fog/driving lights and temporarily mocked up the front and rear lights. I bought weather packs for all the connections, but I'm holding off final installation on those until I get the dash finished and maybe do a quick fit check with the body. Regardless, I was able to mock up the tail lights and do my first smoke test on the wiring harness

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123915&d=1583885195

I then used a small DC power supply as a battery substitute. Less than an amp when I hit the brakes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123916&d=1583885213

Since I don't have a helper or any neighbors around during the day, a simple mirror seems to do the trick
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123917&d=1583885227

So far no issues with the wiring. It would be nice if the rest of the install goes this way.

Cheers!

[Caddy Dad]

I've been spending a lot of time on wiring the dash with a competition style layout and also installing the wiring harness. I'm attempting to bench test the harness installation and my wiring the best I can before I install the dash and the engine. I know that any electrical issues can be a potential PIA as assembly progresses and more components get added. Build a little, test a little is my motto. As an option, I installed a battery cut off switch and a cooling fan over ride switch. I also wired all the front and rear lights with weather packs for easy disconnect when removing and installing the body. In the process of installing and testing the fan over ride switch without the dash installed I couldn't get power to the fan leads. I rechecked my wiring, and components, did some trouble shooting, scratched my head and consulted the wiring diagram. I then realized that both the ignition switch AND the head light switch need to be installed in order to get power to the fan relay. And oh yeah, it helps to have the the fan fuse installed!

It was missing as shipped, so a quick trip the Ace hardware store and I was back in business
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124125&d=1584371075

I have the new rectangular tail lights with my kit and as I was wiring up the weather packs for them I realized something didn't look right. I consulted the wiring instructions again and didn't see anything that called out rectangular tail lights and then I realized that a tail light converter component was shipped as part of the kit. I kept wondering what is was to be used for! It's basically a trailer light converter for 5 wire to 4 wire systems. So I wired that in and all is good now
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124124&d=1584371060

Back to more testing and planning for the engine install this week. As part of my engine install planning I realized I couldn't find the transmission mount. I know it was shipped with the kit as I checked it off as part of my inventory but now can't find it at all. I bet I'm the first person ever to do that! So a quick call to FFR and a few dollars later, one is in the mail.

Enjoying the build!

[Boydster]

Lookin good, buddy. You're building like a mad man!

[Caddy Dad]

Lookin good, buddy. You're building like a mad man!

Thanks! Being retired and now self isolated, it gives me ample opportunity to make progress on my build. I'm almost done the dash. I just ordered a low voltage indicator light which I think will come in handy. I also had to order a second RT turn signal bezel as I screwed up the first one trying to notch it to fit next to a gauge. I'm hoping to drop the engine/trans in by the end of the month

How did the move go?

Cheers!

[Caddy Dad]

I got new tires today from Summit (Nitto 245/45-17 front 315/35-17 rear) and got them mounted.
124350
124351
124352

But after mounting them I quickly found out I had an interference issue. First off, the flex brake line rubs on the rear tires. Not a big issue as a quick visit to Summit web site and a pair of lines with 90 degree fittings are on their way. What's another $60 at this point? Sigh.

Second, the right side rubs against the shock tower coil over. This seemed odd as when I assembled the rear UCAs and LCAs (toe assembly) I made the effort to make sure the adjusting hardware left and right were at the same length and then just snugged down the jam nuts.

Right side interference
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124345&d=1584646334

The left side looked just fine (other than the brake flex line) and clears by about a 1/2 "
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124344&d=1584646314

That seemed kinda odd to me that it would be off that much. I decided to try to adjust the right side camber by screwing the UCA heim joint out a bit more and see if I can get the clearance distance the same on the left and the right.

I then measured the length of the adjusting screws with a set of calipers. Right side distance ~2.18"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124349&d=1584646930

Left side distance ~1.90"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124348&d=1584646910

As it sits suspended on the chassis dolly there appears to be about ~0.28" difference between the sides. I was expecting these measurements to be closer. I don't have access to a precise inclinometer (I did use the one on my phone but it doesn't have enough resolution) so I couldn't measure the exact camber but I did use a bubble level to try and get the camber matching left to right. However the camber is leaning to the outside about +1 degree. Does this seem right? What am I missing? Or is this common with roadsters? Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[BadAsp427]

You just have not got the rear end properly aligned. Once you have all the alignment done correctly you should have plenty of space between your shocks, Springs, tires etc.. And also remember it needs to be on the ground fully to do all of that with all of the weight on it such as the body fuel etc. It will probably geometrically all work out for you once you get this completed.

For right now, if you can set it down on the ground and use a basic carpenter square to get your camber set close at straight up and down that will get you a real good start.

[Boydster]

How did the move go?
Cheers!

Move went well. Yesterday hit 82*, so after work I got The Boss out and introduced her to Knoxville. :)

[Caddy Dad]

Nice! I'm looking to the time when I can do the same!

[Caddy Dad]

You just have not got the rear end properly aligned. Once you have all the alignment done correctly you should have plenty of space between your shocks, Springs, tires etc.. And also remember it needs to be on the ground fully to do all of that with all of the weight on it such as the body fuel etc. It will probably geometrically all work out for you once you get this completed.

For right now, if you can set it down on the ground and use a basic carpenter square to get your camber set close at straight up and down that will get you a real good start.

Thanks for the insight. I don't have the engine installed yet so I haven't attempted to set the ride height either. But I like your idea and I'll give that a try next. It was a real head scratcher when I first put that tire on. It's just another problem to solve! :-)

Thanks!

[BadAsp427]

Thanks for the insight. I don't have the engine installed yet so I haven't attempted to set the ride height either. But I like your idea and I'll give that a try next. It was a real head scratcher when I first put that tire on. It's just another problem to solve! :-)

Thanks!

How do you think I knew how to answer your question? I actually pinched my finger when I went to roll the tire between the shock in the tire LOL

[Caddy Dad]

How do you think I knew how to answer your question? I actually pinched my finger when I went to roll the tire between the shock in the tire LOL

I did as suggested today. I set the wheels on the ground and bungeed a carpenters level to the wheel. I then adjusted the camber to where it was level or slightly leaning in. Spacing was perfect side to side! I'm sure I'll have to do it again as I get ready for go carting but for now it looks spot on. I was kinda freaked out when I first saw it and wondering how did I screw that up! Big thanks to BadAsp427, Boydster and EdwardB for their insight.

[Caddy Dad]

Here are some pictures of how I set the camber and with the new brake flex lines installed. All is good now!

Adjusting camber
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124630&d=1584969863


New brake flex lines installed. Plenty of clearance.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124629&d=1584967747

Next up; Final dash modifications and install

Cheers!

[Caddy Dad]

I'm mostly finished with bench testing my dash. I went with the competition style layout which meant I got a blank piece of aluminum and had to cut all the holes, debur and lengthen the wiring harness where needed. I used Vivid vinyl to cover the dash it it was easy for this first timer to get a nice looking result. Supposed to be water proof, fade resistant and has four way stretch. We'll see how it holds up. And oh yeah, be careful with the circle blanks when you cut them out as they have a nice sharp edge and a burr that's just asking you to donate blood. :-(

Here is a picture of the full dash. A replacement RT trim bezel is in the mail from Mike Everson.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124633&d=1584982181

I also added a low voltage sensor from RF and hooked it up to a bright LED indicator light.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124636&d=1584982229

So far I'm pleased with the results

[VAHokie]

I got new tires today from Summit (Nitto 245/45-17 front 315/35-17 rear) and got them mounted.
124350
124351
124352

But after mounting them I quickly found out I had an interference issue. First off, the flex brake line rubs on the rear tires. Not a big issue as a quick visit to Summit web site and a pair of lines with 90 degree fittings are on their way. What's another $60 at this point? Sigh.

Second, the right side rubs against the shock tower coil over. This seemed odd as when I assembled the rear UCAs and LCAs (toe assembly) I made the effort to make sure the adjusting hardware left and right were at the same length and then just snugged down the jam nuts.

Right side interference
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124345&d=1584646334

The left side looked just fine (other than the brake flex line) and clears by about a 1/2 "
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124344&d=1584646314

That seemed kinda odd to me that it would be off that much. I decided to try to adjust the right side camber by screwing the UCA heim joint out a bit more and see if I can get the clearance distance the same on the left and the right.

I then measured the length of the adjusting screws with a set of calipers. Right side distance ~2.18"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124349&d=1584646930

Left side distance ~1.90"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124348&d=1584646910

As it sits suspended on the chassis dolly there appears to be about ~0.28" difference between the sides. I was expecting these measurements to be closer. I don't have access to a precise inclinometer (I did use the one on my phone but it doesn't have enough resolution) so I couldn't measure the exact camber but I did use a bubble level to try and get the camber matching left to right. However the camber is leaning to the outside about +1 degree. Does this seem right? What am I missing? Or is this common with roadsters? Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Looking good, Frank!

What are your final measurements on each side now that you have a rough alignment? I ask because my version of the manual didn't have the recommended measurements so I went with the .5" of exposed thread on either side of both the UCA and toe arm as others have done. After getting ahold of a July 2019 version of the manual, noticed they had the rough specs in there and while my toe arm was pretty much spot on, the UCA is off by .5".

[Caddy Dad]

Hi Tony,
I ended up with 1.80" on the left side and 1.93" on the right. I set it on the ground and only adjusted the UCAs on both sides. I did not adjust the toe or ride height yet. I just wanted to get the camber corrected so as not to rub against the coil over. I'll need to read a few more threads on how to do a proper alignment. But first I'll need to finalize electrical system testing, drop the engine in, hook up all the sender connections, cooling, mechanical throttle linkage, hydraulic clutch line, etc etc.

Geez, there's a lot more to do, but this is really a lot of fun!

Cheers!

[Caddy Dad]

Another major milestone today. After reading several threads on engine install and being embolden by Jeff Kleiner stating that he does this by himself, I cajoled my 18 year old daughter into helping me install the engine and transmission.

With the chassis on wheel dollies and the rear end on blocks, I maneuvered the engine into place. With the HF engine hoist loaded, it doesn't roll very well at all. It's so much easier to move the chassis than the lift.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125325&d=1585604856

Daughter helping
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125326&d=1585604872

Slowly lowered into place, adjusted load leveler and with a bit of nudging, she's in!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125327&d=1585604891

I'll need to add some spacers under the transmission, but I'm a happy camper!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125329&d=1585604920

The install was so much easier than I was prepared for. Almost a non event. Now I've got several connections to figure out, hook up the throttle, hydraulic clutch, exhaust, etc etc. So it might be a while before the first start, but what else is there to do now that we're on total lock down?

Everybody be safe out there!

[GoDadGo]

Congrats Navy Dad, Contrats!

[KDubU]

Congrats! Nice engine, like the black covers.

[Jeff Kleiner]

There you go!

Jeff

[Caddy Dad]

I've been working on all the little tasks you need to complete before starting up the engine for the first time.

I had to order some transmission spacers from Forte. I used all three.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126136&d=1586622658

I then moved onto connecting up the engine sending units (H2O temp, Oil Pressure and Oil Temp) and found out I forgot to order a bung hole for the oil temp sender. No bung hole? No problem! Forte's has an adapter that fits between the oil filter and engine block.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126140&d=1586622720

I then added the 7 quarts of break in oil as per BPE instructions
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126139&d=1586622704

Next I tried to connect up the power steering pump using FFR supplied hoses. That turned into a real head scratcher until I did more research on this forum. Basically I just threw out the FFR parts and called Mark at Breeze. He hooked me up and the install went perfect.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126142&d=1586624445

I then turned to installing the mechanical throttle linkage from Forte's Very nice parts but I ran into a bit of a snag when I tried to install it. I have the 2 inch firewall forward kit from FF Metals installed and the Heim ball joints are too short to mount to the 2 inch square tube. I did a little research and ordered some coupling nuts from McMaster Carr to fit between the square tube and the Heim joint. and now good to go.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126138&d=1586622685

Feeling confident, I decided to follow the pre-oiling instructions from BPE. I removed all the spark plugs and disconnected the coil wire. I cranked the engine over several times and oil pressure started to show up on the gauge. Life is good!
Next I added about a gallon of gas and flushed the fuel lines before connecting them to the Holley EFI. The fuel pump runs for a for seconds when you turn the key to run and I caught to out flow in a catch can. Fuel looked clean! I connected up the hoses and pressurized the system. The pressure goes up to about ~65 psi and then hangs about 45 after I turn off the key. No leaks detected, but I'll keep an eye on it
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126137&d=1586622671

Here's a picture of the Holley setup tool when I turn the key to run. I'm guessing these settings are normal for now but I'll do more research before starting
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126135&d=1586622645

I also ran into another real head scratcher trying to use the FFR parts to connect up the cooling system I just couldn't figure out how that corrugated tubing and adapters that come with the kit are going to be installed and be reliable at the same time. So more research and another phone call to Breeze and Boig and a few dollars later, the upper and lower radiator pipes are on order. Unfortunately this virus has got everyone in a bind so I'll be waiting patiently for a while waiting on more parts to show up. That's all for now. Hopefully the next posting will be a video of the first start!

Everyone be safe out there!

[Caddy Dad]

Today was another major milestone. I got impatient waiting on my new Boig coolpipes, so I decided to try to connect up the corrugated hose and fittings that come with the kit. I managed to get everything connected and cranked down hard on the hose clamps (I think you know where this is going). My first attempt resulted in a no start. After trouble shooting it a bit and confirming with a phone call to Johnny at BPE I realized I need to run a switched 12 VDC to the plus side of the coil. Sure enough, it's right there in his latest email in black and white.

And this happened:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKuW9Y4x7G0&feature=youtu.be

Engine started right up and sounds really strong. A few issues to work on. Tach reads twice as high as it should. I'm guessing I need to configure it correctly and the oil temperature never came off the peg. Everything else looked good.


Just as it was reaching operating temperature (~85 C) the top radiator hose blew off!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126593&d=1587077502

Nothing like a face of hot dexcool to ruin your day!
Fortunately no harm done and no one injured. I've got a huge mess to clean up and a great lesson learned.

This is really getting to be fun now! Enjoy the build!

[Papa]

Congratulations on the first start -- it's a memorable milestone for your build. You'll love the Boig Cool Tubes.

[edwardb]

Congrats on the first start. Pretty sure "clear prop" is for a different mode of transportation. :p But all good. Sounds great. Smile says it all. Those corrugated hoses can be challenging to stay on. Combined with that chromed water neck which also have a reputation for being hard to grip.

[Caddy Dad]

Congrats on the first start. Pretty sure "clear prop" is for a different mode of transportation. :p But all good. Sounds great. Smile says it all. Those corrugated hoses can be challenging to stay on. Combined with that chromed water neck which also have a reputation for being hard to grip.

Yep, kinda brought back my aviation days. I've got to clean up the wiring harness and button everything back up, Also need to trouble shoot a few issues, but for the most part no show stoppers. It's really been a lot of fun. Thanks for motivating me with your build and insight. I can't say enough of how much I appreciate all the knowledge on this forum. Good stuff!

Cheers!

[KDubU]

Congrats! That is a big milestone, nice engine.

[Railroad]

You are going to need to scuff up that water neck, where the hose blew off. I take a piece of sand paper in hand and twist back and forth a few times. Good looking work you do there!

[stack]

I could never get the chrome water necks to work right. I replaced them with a cast aluminum unit

stack

[Caddy Dad]

You are going to need to scuff up that water neck, where the hose blew off. I take a piece of sand paper in hand and twist back and forth a few times. Good looking work you do there!

Thanks! Yeah, I kinda missed that point when I connected them up. They were hard enough to get on so I thought no way these were going to come off. My initial plan was just to do a quick start and then shut it down, but my excitement got ahead of me. Hearing that engine come to life was so cool!.

I have Boig cooltubes on order and I'll definitely be looking very closely at the water neck.

Cheers!

[VAHokie]

Congrats, Frank! Looks and sounds great.

[Boydster]

Glad you didnt get burned... that coulda been serious. Get out the paper towels...

[Caddy Dad]

My new Boig Cool Tubes showed up today so I wasted no time getting them installed. This time I scuffed up the upper water neck with some emory cloth, cleaned everything up and then double clamped all the hoses where I could. No way I wanted those hoses blowing off again!

Upper hose
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126787&d=1587343276

Lower hose with breeze support clamp
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126789&d=1587344853

This time I tested the cooling system in steps. I started the engine up and looked for movement of the H2O temp. I then shut her down and checked for leaks and tightness of hose clamps. I then started her up and let it warm up to ~60*C. Shutdown and check for leaks again. I then restarted and let it run until the fan came on ~85*C, shutdown and checked for leaks again. All good! I then restarted and let her run until the fan cycled on and off. Life is good! I'll keep an eye on it and cycle it a few more times while she is on jack stands.

All the gauges are working and I started to button up the wiring behind the dash.

I now have two teething issues I need to resolve.
1) the tach seems to read about 500 RPM too high. Originally the tach was reading 2x of what it should so I configured the tach per Speedhut instructions for V8 pulses. That seemed to help. The tach also seems to bounce around a bit more than I'm used to seeing. Is this normal? I'll recheck the connections, but just wondering if anybody else has seen this?

2) the power steering has a chatter in it. At first I thought it might be air trapped in the system so I cycled the steering lock to lock about 4 or 5 times, but no joy. Removing the filler cap, the fluid looks darker then when added, but with no bubbles, foam, etc. Does the steering system need to be flushed? Is there still air in the system?

Any insight would be appreciated.

Enjoy the build and be safe!

[Caddy Dad]

Glad you didnt get burned... that coulda been serious. Get out the paper towels...

Oh yeah me too! BTW DexCool tastes awful! I went through almost a whole roll of the blue paper shop towels.

[BadAsp427]

Man your build is looking great... FYI, you are not the first to blow that top hose... I did the same... Most likely you had a air pocket of steam... Either way, one thing you can do is to put 3 or 4 self tapping screws into the upper part of the t-stat water neck, this will give the clamps something to clamp under.

As for your tach, no it should not be jumping around, unless your RPM is in fact jumping around. It will be very smooth when working correctly. I can only say that at this point, check all your connections and be sure there isn't a loose one some where. Be sure the "tach" wire is connected to the negative (-) side of your coil. If that is all good, a call to speed hut may help.

Now a question for you, where did you get the 90* hose coming off of your t-stat water neck? The one I have, I don't like... Have a part #?

[Caddy Dad]

Man your build is looking great... FYI, you are not the first to blow that top hose... I did the same... Most likely you had a air pocket of steam... Either way, one thing you can do is to put 3 or 4 self tapping screws into the upper part of the t-stat water neck, this will give the clamps something to clamp under.

As for your tach, no it should not be jumping around, unless your RPM is in fact jumping around. It will be very smooth when working correctly. I can only say that at this point, check all your connections and be sure there isn't a loose one some where. Be sure the "tach" wire is connected to the negative (-) side of your coil. If that is all good, a call to speed hut may help.

Now a question for you, where did you get the 90* hose coming off of your t-stat water neck? The one I have, I don't like... Have a part #?

I think I'm either getting interference in my tach signal or I've got an intermittent connection somewhere. I'm using the EFI-Tach signal that comes off the Holley wiring harness as per the directions. I called Speed Hut and they suggested that to help trouble shoot the issue, is (like you said) to just connect directly to the negative terminal of the coil and see if that helps. I haven't done that yet but it's on my list of squawks to work on.

I don't have a part number for the hose. Initially, I tried to use the hose that came with the FFR kit but the ID was too large for the Cool Tube barb and it interfered with the t-stat cap. My Holley Sniper kit that came with my BPE engine included about 20 feet of 3/8 fuel line hose. I'm using hard lines and SS flex hose for my fuel lines so it just went into my surplus parts pile. I just cut a length of that and squeezed it onto the hose barb fitting Seems to be working ok so far. I have plenty leftover so it you need any, let me know and I can send some down to you.

Thanks for the review and insight.
Cheers!

[Caddy Dad]

My new QuickTrick alignment tools showed up today so the first thing I had to do was set the ride height.

First I adjusted air pressure all around to ~24 psi, then I added my mass simulator to the drivers side. About 200 lbs of sand bags should do it. :-)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127510&d=1588287296


I don't have a ride height measuring tool so I cut a couple of blocks at 4" and 4.5". I'm using an initial setting of 4" in the front and 4.5" in the rear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127511&d=1588287309


I raised the front (or rear) off the ground and adjusted the collars by hand. I made the typical rookie mistake by not having the chassis settle after lowering it onto the ground. Wasted about a half hour on the front end trying to figure out why my adjustments weren't yielding the results I was expecting. Doh! After that I bounced on each corner and rolled the chassis back and forth a bit. It was a lot of raise it up, adjust, lower her down, check for height. It felt like I was doing crunches for about an hour!
After getting smarter and getting up on the learning curve, I started to dial in the height. It's trickier than I imagined. I was amazed at how just a small tweak on the collar affected the height as I got close to my desired height. I still have some parts to install and she's really light on fuel but I'm thinking this will get me in the ball park so I can do an alignment and start go carting.

Enjoy the build!

[Caddy Dad]

While waiting on the side pipes from Gas-N to get shipped I decided to move forward and do the initial alignment before doing my go carting. Based on what EdwardB stated, other build threads and my limited research, I purchased the Quick Trick 4th Gen alignment system. Since they had a sale going on, I also sprang for the turn plates. They all appear to be of high quality and well thought out. I figured this would be an easy way to learn how to do alignments and something I can use in the future on my other cars. Ha!

I naively thought that I would start with the rear IRS since I only need to adjust the camber and toe. Sounds easy enough. The first issue I ran into was a puddle of green shock fluid under the right rear. I emailed and left a VM at FFR to see what's required to get a replacement. Sigh.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127729&d=1588614063

Then I realized it's really difficult just to loosen up the jam nuts on the UCA and LCA. So off comes the QT alignment sticks, off comes the wheel, and the jam nuts are backed off. Then back on goes the wheel and QT alignment sticks. The FFR assembly manual calls out the interaction between the camber and toe adjustments so I dove right in on the toe, then camber, lower the car down, bounce on the rear suspension, check it, oops, turned the toe the wrong way, jack back up, adjust again, etc, etc. I lot of back and forth, up and down, lather, rinse, repeat. At one point I had the alignment so wonky it looked pigeon toed! After about 4 hours I finally got the rear alignment in the ball park but I'll definitely need to get it professionally aligned too. Once you get close, small tweaks are all you need. When I got done I felt like I was doing crunches for four hours. A lift would be nice. :-(

The next day I started in on the front suspension. This time it went much easier because the adjustment sleeves and tie rods are so much easier to get access to. The caster and camber dialed right in, but the best I could get on the toe was within 1/4 inch. The spec is 1/16! I'll leave that to the professionals. Another lesson learned is that it would be nice to have two digital levels instead of the one that comes with the kit. I think you can get one for about $40 on line.

I used a laser instead of the string method to get the toe initially set.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127728&d=1588614043

Then I used a piece of plywood cut to fit underneath the car and sit flush against the 4" round side tube. Here is the front.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127726&d=1588614010

I then moved the board to the rear and adjusted the toe so that the dots would line up vertically.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127727&d=1588614022

This did the rough toe alignment, then I moved onto using the measuring tapes that came with the QT kit where I did the final toe adjustment.

Also, here is a picture of the front upper control arm. When I initially assembled these, I trimmed the rear sleeves as per many other builds on the forum in order to get the 7* of caster . Turns out I have plenty of room for adjustment even without trimming them. I've read where some people don't need to trim, others do. I have a newer kit (S/N 9749) so maybe something has changed since earlier kits. IDK
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127737&d=1588616587

Enjoy the build!

[edwardb]

That sounds way too familiar. The IRS is really hard to reach when it's on the ground. And is easy to turn things the wrong way and get things all messed up. My brain took a vacation when I was doing the Coupe a couple months ago. I was chasing the camber and toe on the IRS and just when I though it was getting close decided it looked really weird. Sure enough, I had been adjusting the camber to positive instead of negative. Had to basically start over because the settings interact so much. I ended up making these notes for myself when doing alignments.

Rear (IRS):

Left side: Moving toe arm adjuster DOWN (from front) moves toe OUT. Moving camber adjuster DOWN (from front) moves camber POSITIVE.

Right side: Moving toe arm adjuster DOWN (from front) moves toe IN. Moving camber adjuster DOWN (from front) moves camber NEGATIVE.

Front:

Left side: Moving inner tie rod DOWN (from front) moves toe IN. Moving UCA adjustment sleeves DOWN (from back) move both OUT.

Right side: Moving inner tie rod DOWN (from front) moves toe OUT. Moving UCA adjustment sleeves DOWN (from back) move both IN.

[Caddy Dad]

That sounds way too familiar. The IRS is really hard to reach when it's on the ground. And is easy to turn things the wrong way and get things all messed up. My brain took a vacation when I was doing the Coupe a couple months ago. I was chasing the camber and toe on the IRS and just when I though it was getting close decided it looked really weird. Sure enough, I had been adjusting the camber to positive instead of negative. Had to basically start over because the settings interact so much. I ended up making these notes for myself when doing alignments.

Rear (IRS):

Left side: Moving toe arm adjuster DOWN (from front) moves toe OUT. Moving camber adjuster DOWN (from front) moves camber POSITIVE.

Right side: Moving toe arm adjuster DOWN (from front) moves toe IN. Moving camber adjuster DOWN (from front) moves camber NEGATIVE.

Front:

Left side: Moving inner tie rod DOWN (from front) moves toe IN. Moving UCA adjustment sleeves DOWN (from back) move both OUT.

Right side: Moving inner tie rod DOWN (from front) moves toe OUT. Moving UCA adjustment sleeves DOWN (from back) move both IN.

Now you tell me? LOL! Yep, I had to start over a couple of times. Just like you said, you turn the left and right side adjusters different directions to go in or out/positive or negative. I'd bend over or get down on the floor to adjust it and then get confused which way to turn it. Took me a while to figure that out but I'm writing it down and posting it on my workshop wall. Don't want to repeat that episode again! Oh well, at least I've got a good story to tell.

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

My near term goal is to start go carting around my neighborhood and shake out any issues. I'll need to bolt down the seats and get the side pipes mounted, but to do that correctly, I'll need to install the body and get everything fitted as close as I can to their final position. I want to make sure there are no clearance issues between the seats, doors, seat belts, etc. With the help of my teenage daughter, I temporarily installed the body today and more or less got everything into position. I put the drivers seat in and sat in it for alignment. Good thing I did this because I had to move the drivers seat as far inboard and rearward as I could so as my left shoulder wouldn't rub against the door! I'm not that big of a guy (6'2") and no one ever mentioned that I have broad shoulders that I can remember. :-( I've sat in a few MK IVs prior to this and I don't remember having any fitment issues. Regardless I think I've got it figured out and I now have comfortable pedal position and sight lines.

Almost looks like a car!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128341&d=1589415835

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128340&d=1589415823

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128342&d=1589415847


I had to sand down the door edges a bit to get them to open and close without rubbing. 80 grit sand paper and an orbital sander works really well. I was amazed at how quickly it took off the smidge of fiberglass I needed to eliminate the rub. I was careful not to take too much off as the body is not fully installed yet and still flexes a bit in the rear. It brought back memories of the build school where we installed the body and doors. Everything looked good and then one of the instructors showed us where the body wasn't fitted correctly and then bang! everything went out of alignment again. So tricky to get it right and frustrating too. I watched the FFR body work videos and it seems to me that my wheel openings look different and need little to no trimming at all.

I'm still waiting on Gas-N pipes so it might be a while longer before they show up (due to the pandemic lockdown) so I'll keep working on small tasks to keep making progress.

Enjoy the build!

PS. FFR replaced my defective Koni shock no questions asked. I just had to send them a picture of the leak and return the old shock.

[Caddy Dad]

Progress has been slow due to the pandemic jamming up some vendors I'm waiting on. Georgie at Gas-N is doing his best to get the side pipes to me in a timely manner and I really appreciate his email updates. I'm sitting tight and keeping everything in perspective. I fully understand that waiting on parts is the least of my worries with a global pandemic and civil unrest going on.
In the meantime I've been keeping busy with little tasks to keep making some sort of progress.

I mounted a backup light wired into the reverse switch on the TKO600 transmission. I also installed the roll bars so I can drill the holes for the mounting bolts. I chickened out on trying to drill them freehand so I ordered a drill jig from Trick Tools. Hopefully that will be shipped soon too.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129493&d=1591289585

I then POR-15 coated the Breeze seat mounts and temporarily mounted them in the cockpit. I also installed the seat heaters and added the wiring. I was really dreading tearing apart the upholstery to install the heaters but it was really simple and turned into a non-event.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129492&d=1591289572

I then took my untreated leather check straps and seat belts to my local leather shop to get them dyed black. Yeah, I could've done it myself but with businesses just opening back up I figured this guy could use my money too. Turns out he knew exactly what I had and asked if I was building a FFR! This place has been in business a long time. Turns out that Willie "the shoe" Shoemaker used to get his riding boots custom made here. So cool!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129491&d=1591288700


I think they turned out nice.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129490&d=1591288686


One thing I'm missing on the seat belts is the small pull tab thingys that you use for tightening and loosening the straps. Are these supposed to be included in the kit or ordered separately from Simpson?

Thanks and enjoy the build!

[JB in NOVA]

Looking great! I can imagine the anticipation you're feeling waiting for the final parts so you can get it on the road.

[TMartinLVNV]

Progress has been slow due to the pandemic jamming up some vendors I'm waiting on. Georgie at Gas-N is doing his best to get the side pipes to me in a timely manner and I really appreciate his email updates. I'm sitting tight and keeping everything in perspective. I fully understand that waiting on parts is the least of my worries with a global pandemic and civil unrest going on.
In the meantime I've been keeping busy with little tasks to keep making some sort of progress.

I mounted a backup light wired into the reverse switch on the TKO600 transmission. I also installed the roll bars so I can drill the holes for the mounting bolts. I chickened out on trying to drill them freehand so I ordered a drill jig from Trick Tools. Hopefully that will be shipped soon too.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129493&d=1591289585

I then POR-15 coated the Breeze seat mounts and temporarily mounted them in the cockpit. I also installed the seat heaters and added the wiring. I was really dreading tearing apart the upholstery to install the heaters but it was really simple and turned into a non-event.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129492&d=1591289572

I then took my untreated leather check straps and seat belts to my local leather shop to get them dyed black. Yeah, I could've done it myself but with businesses just opening back up I figured this guy could use my money too. Turns out he knew exactly what I had and asked if I was building a FFR! This place has been in business a long time. Turns out that Willie "the shoe" Shoemaker used to get his riding boots custom made here. So cool!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129491&d=1591288700


I think they turned out nice.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129490&d=1591288686


One thing I'm missing on the seat belts is the small pull tab thingys that you use for tightening and loosening the straps. Are these supposed to be included in the kit or ordered separately from Simpson?

Thanks and enjoy the build!

That looks really good. I didn't even think about doing to part on the seat belts.

[Caddy Dad]

It's been a while since my last update but I was totally jammed up with bad timing on ordering parts at the outbreak of COVID pandemic. But today was a good day as I was finally pick up my Gas-N pipes at UPS. My local UPS distribution center is totally overloaded with packages and has some severe staff shortages. My pipes came off the truck and then sat for 10 days while UPS was finally able to get them to me. Regardless, I picked up my pipes and rushed home to unpack and get them mounted for my first go cart. As I unpacked my passenger side pipe and I was stopped dead in my tracks. The tip was bent! The box and pipes were double and triple wrapped and there didn't appear to be any exterior visible damage to the box. A quick email to Georgie and he said he would send a new one out. I have to give a big shout out to Georgie at Gas-N. He has been super responsive on all my emails and a pleasure to work with. Thanks Georgie!
Here are a few pictures of the tip.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132933&d=1596480240

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132934&d=1596480242


Pipes mounted and I'm off to do my first go cart. Here is a link to the YouTube video. All systems appear to be working just fine. Check out my backup light as I come out of the garage at 1:18.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvkjPXn-w6M


I'm running a 347 and Holley Sniper EFI from Blueprint engines. My issue now is that whenever I increase the RPM past 2K, the engines sputters, pops, coughs and runs rough. At idle its fine The Sniper widget screen says I'm still in learn mode. Is this normal? How long does learn mode last?

Thanks!

[edwardb]

Looks and sounds great. Congrats! Too bad about the pipe. But you're right. Georgie is great to work with.

[Railroad]

That chrome thermostat housing is going to be an issue. If you want to keep it, scuff the hose connecting area with some sand paper. Most people sand it like they are turning a door knob. This will leave grooves that help keep the hose from sliding off. Great looking ride and super detail.

[Chilly]

The first big box showed up today from BPE. 347 stroker, TKO 600 and hydraulic release bearing, 423 HP, 429 Ft lbs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119687&d=1577736458
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119688&d=1577736476

BPE even removed the mounting boss on the transmission for me. Thanks Johnny! I was really impressed with the shipping crate and packaging that Blueprint did. Lots of wiring, hoses and miscellaneous parts in the fuel accessories box. Not exactly sure where all those go yet, but I've got some time to figure it out.

The next big delivery should be this week.

Just started my build 2 weeks ago. Also went with a Blueprint motor and trans. Have fun. Will be keeping an eye out for your posts.

[TMartinLVNV]

<I'm running a 347 and Holley Sniper EFI from Blueprint engines. My issue now is that whenever I increase the RPM past 2K, the engines sputters, pops, coughs and runs rough. At idle its fine The Sniper widget screen says I'm still in learn mode. Is this normal? How long does learn mode last?>

This is interesting. Usually, it is at idle that problems arise and they clear up with higher RPMs. When it happens, is the engine under load or in neutral? Have you tried it without the air cleaner on (just for a short time to diagnose)?

With your scan tool, you can also check the IAC setting and air/fuel ratio.

I'm learning all of the Sniper stuff right now too. I had a problem with IAC setting that caused the motor to stall when pressing the clutch in coming to a stop sign but got everything sorted out.

[Papa]

I'm running a 347 and Holley Sniper EFI from Blueprint engines. My issue now is that whenever I increase the RPM past 2K, the engines sputters, pops, coughs and runs rough. At idle its fine The Sniper widget screen says I'm still in learn mode. Is this normal? How long does learn mode last?

Thanks!

Can you describe your fuel system? What type and flow rate pump? What filter(s)? Fuel line sizes of supply and return? Have you checked your plugs to see if they are clean or fouled? What ignition setup are you using? The learning will continue until you turn it off, which is not a bad thing. It takes a bit of tuning to get the system dialed in. I dabbled a bit with mine with the help of weendoggy and bobl as well as a couple of folks on the Holley Sniper forum.

Dave

[Caddy Dad]

Looks and sounds great. Congrats! Too bad about the pipe. But you're right. Georgie is great to work with.

Thanks! I also have to give a big shout out of thanks and appreciation to you too. My visit and our conversation convinced me that I could build this project. Your build threads, craftsmanship and attention to detail motivated me to get to this point in the build. I can see my finish line from here and I'm looking forward to paying it back to other builders as well. I'm now wondering how long after I graduate my build will it be before I get bored and feel the desire to start my next project?

Thanks for all you do!

[Caddy Dad]

Can you describe your fuel system? What type and flow rate pump? What filter(s)? Fuel line sizes of supply and return? Have you checked your plugs to see if they are clean or fouled? What ignition setup are you using? The learning will continue until you turn it off, which is not a bad thing. It takes a bit of tuning to get the system dialed in. I dabbled a bit with mine with the help of weendoggy and bobl as well as a couple of folks on the Holley Sniper forum.

Dave

Hi Dave,
I'm using the Pro-M 255 lph fuel pump 3/8 feed and return. Red horse high flow fuel filter. I've got 6AN hoses and 3/8 niCopp hard lines running down the passenger side. I'm also indicating 65 psi fuel pressure at the Sniper EFI and it dips a bit (5 psi?) as I goose the throttle but then quickly returns to 65 psi. I checked the timing and at idle I've got 12 degrees. I can't check it at 3500 as the engine won't rev up that high. I've tried it with the air cleaner removed as well. Same result. The AFR is 13.5% and the IAC is at 9 and decreases to 0 as it warms up. Idle is set to 800 RPM.
I haven't checked the plugs yet and not sure what a fouled plug would look like, but I have a spare set of plugs I'm going to install later today. I'm hoping that I've somehow managed to foul up the plugs with my haste to hear the engine run and didn't let it warm up all the way. Fingers crossed!
More to follow!

Thanks!

[Papa]

Hi Dave,
I'm using the Pro-M 255 lph fuel pump 3/8 feed and return. Red horse high flow fuel filter. I've got 6AN hoses and 3/8 niCopp hard lines running down the passenger side. I'm also indicating 65 psi fuel pressure at the Sniper EFI and it dips a bit (5 psi?) as I goose the throttle but then quickly returns to 65 psi. I checked the timing and at idle I've got 12 degrees. I can't check it at 3500 as the engine won't rev up that high. I've tried it with the air cleaner removed as well. Same result. The AFR is 13.5% and the IAC is at 9 and decreases to 0 as it warms up. Idle is set to 800 RPM.
I haven't checked the plugs yet and not sure what a fouled plug would look like, but I have a spare set of plugs I'm going to install later today. I'm hoping that I've somehow managed to foul up the plugs with my haste to hear the engine run and didn't let it warm up all the way. Fingers crossed!
More to follow!

Thanks!

Check your BPE documentation, but I think your timing is a bit retarded at 12 degrees. I think mine is at 16. Have you tried to do any data logging? That will help show what's happening as you encounter the stumble you're describing. If you haven't already, take a look at my thread on learning to tune the Sniper:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35914-Learning-to-Tune-the-Holley-Sniper

Dave

[Caddy Dad]

Check your BPE documentation, but I think your timing is a bit retarded at 12 degrees. I think mine is at 16. Have you tried to do any data logging? That will help show what's happening as you encounter the stumble you're describing. If you haven't already, take a look at my thread on learning to tune the Sniper:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35914-Learning-to-Tune-the-Holley-Sniper

Dave
Hi Dave,
I called BPE and was told anything between 10-16 is a good place to start. I replaced the spark plugs and got the same result. Idles ok at 800 RPM but when pushed to 2000+ RPM it runs really rough and shoots loud pops out the exhaust. It also really seems to stink up the garage quite a bit too! I'll take a look at your tuning thread and hopefully put it to good use. If the engine was starving for fuel, would it produce these kind of symptoms? The engine was dyno'd before it was shipped to me so I'm guessing I've got something screwed up with my install. Just breaking new ground for me as I've never had to trouble shoot a problem like this.
Thanks for your help!

[Papa]

Hi Dave,
I called BPE and was told anything between 10-16 is a good place to start. I replaced the spark plugs and got the same result. Idles ok at 800 RPM but when pushed to 2000+ RPM it runs really rough and shoots loud pops out the exhaust. It also really seems to stink up the garage quite a bit too! I'll take a look at your tuning thread and hopefully put it to good use. If the engine was starving for fuel, would it produce these kind of symptoms? The engine was dyno'd before it was shipped to me so I'm guessing I've got something screwed up with my install. Just breaking new ground for me as I've never had to trouble shoot a problem like this.
Thanks for your help!

If it's popping, check for exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks. Are all your vacuum ports plugged? It the popping under load or as you let off the throttle?

[Caddy Dad]

If it's popping, check for exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks. Are all your vacuum ports plugged? It the popping under load or as you let off the throttle?

Hi Dave,
No obvious exhaust leaks that I could detect. I'm pretty sure all vacuum ports are plugged but I'll double check. The popping is under load with the transmission in neutral and as the engine runs rough and struggles to maintain its RPM. Releasing throttle to idle brings peace to the universe! :-) The engine just doesn't want to go above ~2000 RPM.

Thanks!

[Papa]

Hi Dave,
No obvious exhaust leaks that I could detect. I'm pretty sure all vacuum ports are plugged but I'll double check. The popping is under load with the transmission in neutral and as the engine runs rough and struggles to maintain its RPM. Releasing throttle to idle brings peace to the universe! :-) The engine just doesn't want to go above ~2000 RPM.

Thanks!

Sounding more like a vacuum leak. I'll see if I can find the thread, but someone else was having a similar issue and it turned out to be a missing plug on the back side of the intake manifold.

[Railroad]

Do any of your electronics have a rev limiter?

[Caddy Dad]

Do any of your electronics have a rev limiter?

No rev limiter. It was dyno'd by BPE and got good results. I installed it and obviously have something not quite right. Not sure what. I believe the timing and ignition are good. My only guess now is maybe the fuel system? But I've got good fuel pressure.

[Caddy Dad]

That chrome thermostat housing is going to be an issue. If you want to keep it, scuff the hose connecting area with some sand paper. Most people sand it like they are turning a door knob. This will leave grooves that help keep the hose from sliding off. Great looking ride and super detail.

Oh yeah. I've already been there. I had the top hose blow off shortly after first start. Made a huge mess. I scuffed up the neck with emory cloth and also scothbrite. I then installed the hoses with double clamps. Don't want that coming off again!

[Railroad]

Is your ign vacuum advance, like BPE sent it? Do not know if manifold vs ported would cause the issue.
How about pulling the dist cap. That antifreeze bath might have moisturized the inside of the cap.

Sorry about the double post on the chrome thermostat housing. I must have opened the thread in the middle, by mistake.

[BadAsp427]

I know that you said that there is no rev limiter. But the distributor that you received on the engine has a built-in rev limiter that may need to be reset. What you are describing sounds like what a Revlimiter would be doing.

[Caddy Dad]

I know that you said that there is no rev limiter. But the distributor that you received on the engine has a built-in rev limiter that may need to be reset. What you are describing sounds like what a Revlimiter would be doing.

Interesting. I didn't know that the distributor has a built in rev limiter. How do I reset it?

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

I know that you said that there is no rev limiter. But the distributor that you received on the engine has a built-in rev limiter that may need to be reset. What you are describing sounds like what a Revlimiter would be doing.

You da man!
Winner winner Chicken dinner!
I called Holley/MSD and asked about how to reset/set the rev limiter. I rev'd the engine to just below where it was breaking up and just touched the Grey wire coming from the distributor to ground. Then it was breaking up around 3800 rpm! I then rev'd it up to 3800 and touched it to ground again so my rev limt should be somewhere close to 7500.

The grey wire bundle has exposed conductor at the end of the wire and somehow it grounded itself out while the engine was at idle, thus the 2000 limit.

Thanks for your help!

Moving on!

[TMartinLVNV]

Holy smoke. That is great news. I would have NEVER guessed that. Way to go Carl.

[LOBO 302]

<I'm running a 347 and Holley Sniper EFI from Blueprint engines. My issue now is that whenever I increase the RPM past 2K, the engines sputters, pops, coughs and runs rough. At idle its fine The Sniper widget screen says I'm still in learn mode. Is this normal? How long does learn mode last?>

This is interesting. Usually, it is at idle that problems arise and they clear up with higher RPMs. When it happens, is the engine under load or in neutral? Have you tried it without the air cleaner on (just for a short time to diagnose)?

With your scan tool, you can also check the IAC setting and air/fuel ratio.

I'm learning all of the Sniper stuff right now too. I had a problem with IAC setting that caused the motor to stall when pressing the clutch in coming to a stop sign but got everything sorted out.

I have a FITech system on a 302 in my mustang that does the same thing occasionaly. what is IAC? You're going to tell me and I am going to feel like an idiot. Anyways how did you fix it on the Sniper system?

[Caddy Dad]

I have a FITech system on a 302 in my mustang that does the same thing occasionaly. what is IAC? You're going to tell me and I am going to feel like an idiot. Anyways how did you fix it on the Sniper system?

My AFR was about 13.5 and the IAC (Idle Air Controller) starts out at 9 and drops to near 0 when at idle. I haven't checked it at speed yet. My issue was that the rev limiter was kicking in at 2000 RPM which is controlled by the MSD distributor, not the Sniper system. I went back and re-read the MSD documentation that came with the engine and sure enough, there it was. Lesson learned. If all else fails, just read the directions. :-)

[TMartinLVNV]

I have a FITech system on a 302 in my mustang that does the same thing occasionaly. what is IAC? You're going to tell me and I am going to feel like an idiot. Anyways how did you fix it on the Sniper system?

I don't know anything about the FITech setup. The IAC on the Holley is an air bypass when the throttle blades are closed, or nearly so. I adjusted according to the Holley instructions, and it has been fine ever since. Here is a really good video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5Wz_RoXVSI

What I think happened to mine (after discussing it with Forte's EFI guy) is that mine was initially set up at the builder's shop on the dyno without an air cleaner and at sea level. When I was running it at 2300 ft altitude and with an air cleaner, it was getting choked compared to the original set up. It was really frustrating to diagnose, but very easy to fix.

[Caddy Dad]

I've been working on finishing up the interior and getting it completed so I can move on to fitting the body. I badly estimated how much time it takes to install the interior. The carpet comes slightly oversized so it's a lot of fit, trim, fit again, trim again, lather, rinse, repeat. I used outdoor carpet adhesive to attach the carpeting to the floors etc. Geez is that stuff messy to work with! It's worse that anti-seize in that it gets everywhere if you're not paying attention and being careful. Fortunately it cleans up with soap and water.

First I located where the transmission cross braces are with respect to the tunnel cover. Unfortunately I forgot to trace these on the back side of the tunnel cover before installing the transmission so I had to make a paper template and then transfer it to the back side of the cover. This gave me the locations where I can make cutouts for the cup holders and also where to install the industrial strength Velcro strips that will hold the tunnel cover in place. I then attached 1/8" closed cell padding and vinyl covering with 3M90. It seems to work really well but you really only get once chance to get it right. If you accidentally get a crease in it you'll need to tear it off and start over. :-(

The shifter boot is from Mike Everson. I think it looks better than the rubber one that comes with the kit. The trim ring is held in place with rivnuts
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134504&d=1598878531

The 3" cup holders are held in place with large O-Rings on the backside. Seems to work well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134508&d=1598878578


After I was able to get the carpeting installed and set for a day or two, I installed the floor mats. I went on the FFR web site and saw that they were out of stock but called and left a VM. FFR called back the next day and said they just got some in. So I ordered the FFR floor mats and attached them with 1/4-20 SS screws and fender washers into rivnuts mounted on the footbox cross tube. They're mounted on the front of the frame tube so you can't see them when installed. I saw that idea from someone on here and thought it was great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134509&d=1598878591

Here's a picture of the nearly completed interior. I just need to mount the Speedometer mode select push button somewhere handy. The PS grab bar is from West marine and secured in place with 2 brackets I fabricated and secured to the 2x2 firewall frame (another tip from Boyd427). Nice and stout. The 2" floor vent is a great idea from EdwardB and purchased from Jegs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134507&d=1598878568

Go carting is going well. No leaks or issues so far. My only surprise is how quick this car is. Geez it's crazy fast!

Enjoy the build!

[GoDadGo]

Looking Good My Friend!

Yes, These Cars Are Crazy Fast!

..This Step Is A Big Milestone!

[edwardb]

Looking great. You'll be glad you anchored those floor mats down. They tend to move around a bit and can become a safety hazard. Agreed that outdoor adhesive can be messy. Have to keep your hands and tools as clean as possible. Sounds like you were using the latex version. I found the solvent version works better. But it's also messy (although cleans up easily with mineral spirits) and has a strong smell. Also not as easily available. I haven't found one perfect solution for putting down the carpet. Every method has pluses and minuses. Do what works best for you. That transmission cover is nice. Hopefully the Velcro will do the job. There's a surprising amount of positive air pressure in the transmission tunnel. Just keep an eye on it.

[TMartinLVNV]

That looks really good. You did a clean install. I also like the idea of bolting the mats down. Mine currently move around a lot.

[BadAsp427]

The trans cover looks great... I will guess that you will find the "O" rings will not hold the cup holders down after you get up over 50 or 60 MPH. The amount of air coming through there is crazy. I had my cup holders held in (what I thought was very tight) by the leather fabric down in the hole. The cup holders flew out. I found a simple fix by putting a hose clamp around them under the cover. Very easy and they have never moved again.

134721

[Caddy Dad]

The trans cover looks great... I will guess that you will find the "O" rings will not hold the cup holders down after you get up over 50 or 60 MPH. The amount of air coming through there is crazy. I had my cup holders held in (what I thought was very tight) by the leather fabric down in the hole. The cup holders flew out. I found a simple fix by putting a hose clamp around them under the cover. Very easy and they have never moved again.

134721

Hey Carl,
I like that idea! I may have to go to your solution but so far I've only gotten it up to 25 mph. Just taking baby steps for now and getting the feel of how quickly this car responds to my inputs. I'm really looking forward to getting it titled and out on the road!
Thanks!

[GTBradley]

That vinyl covering will be durable stuff and you won’t have to worry about water damage. The industrial velcro, if it’s the Dual Lock 3M stuff a lot of us used, will hold fine. I put it on every brace under the cover and it works great. It even holds my dash on.

[Caddy Dad]

With the help of a friend I installed the body and got it sitting about right on the chassis. I then started fitting the Gas-N side pipes. Even though I have the ball flange headers, it still looks like I'm going to need an 1/4" spacer to get the pipes to set right. I confirmed this by using a stack of washers to approximate the thickness of a spacer. So I quick call to Breeze and the parts are on their way.
In the mean time, I proceeded to mount the quick jacks, tail lights, Le Mans cap and the filler tube. The Kleiner mod made installing the rear quick jacks a non-issue.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135121&d=1600226469

Here is a picture of the tail lights looking aft from inside the body.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135122&d=1600226481

With the sun shining on the body, I can now see all the places where I missed applying the Raptor truck bed liner. :-(
I don't like the way the back of the tail light PC board is exposed to the elements. What have others used to protect the tail light circuitry? Maybe some kind of rubber gasket? Or can I just use some of that flexible strip caulk from Eastwood? Thoughts?

Thanks!

[GTBradley]

Electrical devices are sometimes potted in epoxy to keep out the elements. See this wiki article (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potting_(electronics)) for some ideas.

[Caddy Dad]

Electrical devices are sometimes potted in epoxy to keep out the elements. See this wiki article (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potting_(electronics)) for some ideas.

I also heard back from FFR stating that they are designed by the manufacturer to be installed that way right out of the box. Go figure. I'm not 100% convinced but hopefully it'll be ok.

[cnutting]

On my third driving season with these lights, no issues yet. Of course I may have just jinxed myself...

I seem to recall a thin layer of clear potting compound or conformal coat on mine.

[NA5KAR]

Today was another major milestone. I got impatient waiting on my new Boig coolpipes, so I decided to try to connect up the corrugated hose and fittings that come with the kit. I managed to get everything connected and cranked down hard on the hose clamps (I think you know where this is going). My first attempt resulted in a no start. After trouble shooting it a bit and confirming with a phone call to Johnny at BPE I realized I need to run a switched 12 VDC to the plus side of the coil. Sure enough, it's right there in his latest email in black and white.

And this happened:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKuW9Y4x7G0&feature=youtu.be

Engine started right up and sounds really strong. A few issues to work on. Tach reads twice as high as it should. I'm guessing I need to configure it correctly and the oil temperature never came off the peg. Everything else looked good.


Just as it was reaching operating temperature (~85 C) the top radiator hose blew off!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126593&d=1587077502

Nothing like a face of hot dexcool to ruin your day!
Fortunately no harm done and no one injured. I've got a huge mess to clean up and a great lesson learned.

This is really getting to be fun now! Enjoy the build!

Hi Caddy Dad, I'm just reviewing your build thread and I see that I have the same Blueprint T-Stat chrome neck like you do. I read further and saw a reply from BadAsp427 about scuffing the chrome and putting a few self tapping screws into the water neck. So, yesterday, I did just that. Hoping that the screws will help the clamp keep the hose on the neck. Can you tell me if this looks like it will work or do I need to replace my water neck? Thanks a million.

135617 135618

[Caddy Dad]

Hi NA5KAR,
I'm not an expert by any means, but that looks really good to me. I didn't add the screws. I just scuffed up the neck like you did and then put the hose back on with double clamps. I then did a pull test on it and I couldn't get it to budge. I also replaced my top and bottom hoses with Boig cool pipes. No issues, so far.
Best of luck!

[Caddy Dad]

I'm inching my way towards completing all the necessary components needed to pass state inspection and getting this baby on the road before the cold weather sets in. This week I've been working on fitting the hood, trunk and doors. A major part of this was installing the windshield. I was not looking forward to doing this because I've read how easy it is to break the windshield and/or strip out the brass threaded inserts on the sides of the windshield.
Just like many others on here, my windshield side brackets didn't fit correctly out of the box. They were twisted in a wonky way that made them look impossible to fit. But I followed the lead of others and clamped them in a soft jaw vice and went at it with soft taps of a plastic mallet. Eventually I got them close enough where I could screw them on. I applied yellow tape to the inside of each bracket and then drew a center line down each one as a reference mark. I then had to widen the body cut outs to get the mounting brackets to fit without taking too much material away.

I then installed the windshield and held it at the proper angle/distance (27") with the help of some soft sided ratchet straps attached to the front quick jacks.
Here's the drivers side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135765&d=1601425766

Passenger side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135763&d=1601425732

Here's a shot from the rear
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135762&d=1601425716

Next I reached inside and with a marker outlined on the tape where to drill the holes. Here's a shot of the PS mount.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135764&d=1601425752

The DS bracket fit flush to the mount but the PS was way off. The lower hole had a gap of 0.71 and the upper had a gap of 0.48 measured with my depth gauge on my calipers. That was a lot more of a gap than I was expecting, but it is what it is. I was about to order some spacers from McMaster Carr when a buddy stopped by. He has a 3D printer and offered to print out several different thickness spacers. They are made of nylon and are really robust. I just picked the one that fit and went with it. Easy peasy!

Here's a shot of some left over spacers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135761&d=1601425705

Just as others have done I drilled and tapped the holes to 1/2" and then when installed added the nylock nuts on the outside of the brackets.
Windshield installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135766&d=1601425893

Yeah, it was a lot of work but I just took my time and took little steps along the way. Next up is wiper installation and door latches.

Cheers!

[GoDadGo]

Bravo, Bravo!

Installing the windshield was one of the most stressful tasks for me!

[Caddy Dad]

I've been inching my way toward getting my VIN and safety inspection in the state of Maryland. The last item I wanted to install was my wipers. I passed on the FFR offering and ordered the Specialty Power Windows wiper kit WWK2 and the right hand bend wiper arms with 11" blades. I was impressed with the kit and it looks like a quality product. I have the FF Metals 2" firewall forward kit installed so I was a bit worried early on how it would affect mounting the wipers but was reassured several times by others that it wouldn't be an issue. I mounted the wiper motor directly to the firewall on the passenger side with 1/4-20 rivnuts and had no issues at all. I then attempted to install the wiper transmissions and arms today. I must have measured this 15 times and researched it over and over but here is what happened to me during the install.

First I used the FFR jig to get the general location and angle for installing the transmissions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136066&d=1602194749

I then drilled a pilot hole at the proper angle as close as I could to the windshield and yet still accommodate the wiper transmission at the proper angle. I ended up having to walk the hole forward about 3/4" to get the transmission to fit. Ended up with a keyhole looking hole in my cowling Arg! It's just another hole for the body/paint guy to fix. Sorry about that Jeff K.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136067&d=1602194765

Transmission before install
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136068&d=1602194783

What it might look like after installation. I was planning on bonding it to underneath the cowling with HSRF.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136069&d=1602194796

I also have a friend who is handy with a 3D printer and offered to print up a bracket from Nylon. Here it is what it looks like before installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136070&d=1602194814

I then mounted the wiper arm on the transmission as a mock up to see how everything lines up. In the current location, when the arm is parked it rests on the windshield rubber. At full sweep, the bottom of the wiper rubs the frame of the windshield. Arg x2! I know I can cut down the transmission sleeve as needed and most probably will.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136071&d=1602194831

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136072&d=1602194842

Then I realized that if I bonded the transmission mount sleeve to the underside of the cowling, there is no way I'll be able to remove the transmission if I ever have to. It's tight up against the firewall (FF Metal 2" forward kit) Arg x3!

I'm now thinking I've got a couple of options. I could go with some ugly clip on wipers (manual or electric) and remove them after I pass inspection (not preferred). I can secure the sleeves to the cowling with a couple of button head screws so that they can be removed if needed. Or I can just delete them altogether and hope for the best at safety inspection. I've read the inspection guidelines and it's not clear if you need them or not in Maryland. If you do have them, they have to be functional. I also think I need to move the DS wiper about an inch outboard from the hole I drilled. Arg x4!

I'm going to put the tools down for a bit and think this one over some more. Any insight from others that have gone through this would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[edwardb]

Feel some responsibility here since I was one (maybe the only one?) recommending the Specialty Power Windows wiper kit. The firewall forward and the slightly larger wheelboxes are clearly working against you. Normally they come out of the cowl a little further back as your initial holes found out. Never say never, but once installed not sure why you would need to get them out. I sure wouldn't give up yet. You've got several steps that should get the wiper off the bottom of the windshield. Clearly cutting the sleeve down so the base of the arm is as low as possible will help a lot. I checked and on my Roadsters only used 10" wiper blades. Finally, do you have the wiper arms fully extended? Looked for a picture and this is the best one I could find. Are yours out this far? I used ANCO Adjustable Wiper Arms 44-01 on my Coupe and they adjust from 10.8 to 15.5 in. long. Maybe that's another option? Hope it works out.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/First_Drive_zpso3gdlwtw.mp4?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/05cc696d-93a3-4e1e-ac1d-5974608f38fd/p/ee0d3ed7-b281-4a30-b77b-5391c80a3ea4)

[Caddy Dad]

I didn't even know the arms extended! No instructions were included with the wiper arms and I didn't look that close at the arms either. Sure enough, on the underside there is a small set screw which is used to adjust the length of the arm. I extended it to max length and it now fits much better. I then had a 10 inch wiper blade laying around from another vendor (who sent me the wrong parts earlier) and I tried that one on. It also helps the swing arc much better too. It's not perfect but much better than before. I also ordered a pair of trim bezels from Specialty Power Windows for the wipers and maybe those will help with my issue of securing the transmissions to the cowling. I too think that the failure of a wiper transmission is low and wipers are not likely to be used much on a roadster, but it sure would be difficult to remove if it did fail. More to follow.

Thanks!

[Caddy Dad]

Another major milestone today. Made it through the Maryland MVA gauntlet and got my tags and title! I was a bit intimidated by the process but the State police inspector really knew what he was doing and made it almost a non event. The only snag was that BPE stamped their serial number over the top on the original Ford serial number. However the inspector was still able to decipher it. Turns out my engine was from a 1989 Lincoln Town car Signature edition! A 4 door 5.0 liter 2 barrel car. Last titled in Alabama from 1996 to 2004. I was amazed that they had a database that thorough and could bring up records that easily. He was just making sure there were no stolen parts. I really appreciate that.

Here's the pick up in the AM at my house.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136567&d=1603225140

Leaving the MVA in Glen Burnie MD
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136566&d=1603225124

Put the plates on as soon as I got home. Front license plate bracket courtesy of Mike Everson.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136568&d=1603225158

I'm still working on the wiper installation but I'm almost complete. I came up with the idea of using a 1" spacer from McMaster Carr cut on a 45 degree angle. Seems to work just fine. The lighting makes the spacers look like they are bronze, but they are just aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136565&d=1603225107

Here's a picture installed. Note that the nut in the picture will be replaced by the trim nut or a stainless jam nut.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136564&d=1603225096

I still have a few trim pieces to install but most likely those will wait until after the body and paint is complete.

Cheers!

[edwardb]

Congratulations! Looks good. Hopefully you'll get to drive it some. Our season is running out here.

[Caddy Dad]

Thanks! I hope so too. It's supposed to be in the 70's all week here. Working through last minute details on insurance. They wanted pictures and an exclusion that my 19 y/o daughter won't drive the car. No problem with that! LOL.

[RJD]

Congratulations!

[nucjd19]

Congrats Caddy Dad! You have done an amazing job! One question for you since I have the same engine. I just searched my 347 and there is a serial number plate from BPE in the valley behind the manifold but that is the only serial number I am seeing besides the casting engineering numbers by the starter. Did you have a similar setup and did the officer peel the plate back to to look under it or was it actually stamped over the other number (wherever that is). Just trying to anticipate any hiccups down the road ( I am in Alabama so maybe my hiccups at the DMV will be a little smaller than yours in Maryland.) Thank you.

[Papa]

Congrats Caddy Dad! You have done an amazing job! One question for you since I have the same engine. I just searched my 347 and there is a serial number plate from BPE in the valley behind the manifold but that is the only serial number I am seeing besides the casting engineering numbers by the starter. Did you have a similar setup and did the officer peel the plate back to to look under it or was it actually stamped over the other number (wherever that is). Just trying to anticipate any hiccups down the road ( I am in Alabama so maybe my hiccups at the DMV will be a little smaller than yours in Maryland.) Thank you.

My 347 from BPE had the serial number stamped on the rear deck, no plates. When I did my Colorado State Patrol VIN inspection, the officer actually used his cell phone to get a picture of the number to compare with the documentation from BPE.

[nucjd19]

My 347 from BPE had the serial number stamped on the rear deck, no plates. When I did my Colorado State Patrol VIN inspection, the officer actually used his cell phone to get a picture of the number to compare with the documentation from BPE.

Thank you Papa for the response!

[JB in NOVA]

Congrats, Caddy Dad! And historic plates, too! Very nice.

[Caddy Dad]

My 347 from BPE had the serial number stamped on the rear deck, no plates. When I did my Colorado State Patrol VIN inspection, the officer actually used his cell phone to get a picture of the number to compare with the documentation from BPE.

Mine was just like what Papa stated. No plate. Just a stamping. The inspector used his cell phone to take pictures. After the paper work was completed he attached a VIN sticker to the DS footbox 2" tube. Stuck a bar code sticker to the firewall and to the DS front chassis tube. He also stated that I need to attach the FFR data plate somewhere near the firewall. They don't inspect for it, but he just had to tell me to install it.

[Caddy Dad]

I took my car on the longest drive ever to a shop for alignment (50 mile round trip). I had done a rough alignment previously myself, but these guys dialed it in perfectly to the factory specs. It felt a bit twitchy before when I got her over 40 MPH, but now tracks nice and straight. It took them about an hour or so.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136639&d=1603382736


I'm working through fixing a few bugs as I put more miles on her. I know that I don't have the body to frame sealed up too well but I am getting a ton of hot air coming through and blowing right on my legs and lap. Even with this cool fall weather it's WAY too hot. I'm trying to figure out where the gaps are that I need to seal up. Has anybody else had this issue? How did you solve it?
Thanks!

[Papa]

Yes! There are two major areas you need to look at. The first is between the driver side foot box and the body. This will help close that up:

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Conditioner-Insulating-2-25-Inch-284423/dp/B002GKC2U8/ref=pd_bxgy_2/136-2719371-6470352?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002GKC2U8&pd_rd_r=c0d780bc-21eb-4129-bec9-421e2d8050f3&pd_rd_w=ldgXD&pd_rd_wg=OK1MK&pf_rd_p=ce6c479b-ef53-49a6-845b-bbbf35c28dd3&pf_rd_r=BGQ073PT0VTJGPKHRDMD&psc=1&refRID=BGQ073PT0VTJGPKHRDMD

Next, look across the top side of the footbox for a narrower gap to fill. I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9Q26Z5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[edwardb]

I know that I don't have the body to frame sealed up too well but I am getting a ton of hot air coming through and blowing right on my legs and lap. Even with this cool fall weather it's WAY too hot. I'm trying to figure out where the gaps are that I need to seal up. Has anybody else had this issue? How did you solve it? Thanks!

Very common problem and discussed frequently. Most likely is between the straight section of your footboxes alongside the curved sections of the body. Right in front of the door hinges. The kit provides (and mentions in the instructions) using expanding foam tape on the footboxes before putting the body on for the final time. That can work, but sometimes doesn't and seem many miss/forget it anyway. Multiple ways to block that area off. I use A/C foam cut to shape. Can be installed before putting the body on. Or pushed into place if already together. Compliments of Mr. Kleiner: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10438-Prepping-for-Final-Body-Install-Have-Question-About-Footbox-Foam&p=103194&viewfull=1#post103194.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Very common problem and discussed frequently. Most likely is between the straight section of your footboxes alongside the curved sections of the body. Right in front of the door hinges. The kit provides (and mentions in the instructions) using expanding foam tape on the footboxes before putting the body on for the final time. That can work, but sometimes doesn't and seem many miss/forget it anyway. Multiple ways to block that area off. I use A/C foam cut to shape. Can be installed before putting the body on. Or pushed into place if already together. Compliments of Mr. Kleiner: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10438-Prepping-for-Final-Body-Install-Have-Question-About-Footbox-Foam&p=103194&viewfull=1#post103194.

Thanks Paul, you saved me from having to look that post up! ;)

Jeff

[Caddy Dad]

I've been spending the past week enjoying the nice weather and putting some miles on the Mk IV. So far I've got 150 miles on her and getting lots of attention wherever I go. Yeah, shes quick! Top speed so far has been 80 and shes gets there very nicely between 2nd and 3rd. :-) It's been a while since I've driven an open top car and the sensations are totally different than what I'm accustomed to. I'll be driving along and smell radiator fluid, transmission fluid or burning brakes, etc and immediately thinks its me! But I don't see any smoke or fluid on the road behind me, car still feels fine, sounds fine, so I calm down and realize it's got to be all the other traffic on the road. Funny how you don't notice those when you're sealed up in a modern car.

One of my challenges is that I've never driven one of these before so I really don't know what to expect or know what feels right and what doesn't. My steering always seemed tight to me but it turned lock to lock with no issues, tracked straight, etc but I didn't like that it felt like it took way too much effort to just turn the wheel slightly left or right. This made it interesting driving down the highway trying to make small adjustments as I went along. I have the RT turn signal mod (which I highly recommend) so I gave a call to Russ to see if he had any insight. He suggested that it sounded like I didn't have the steering bearing and the nylon bushing perfectly aligned. I disconnected the steering shaft and removed it for inspection.

Here's a picture of the RT mount tube and the steering shaft. Note the wear marks from the nylon bushing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136864&d=1603979125

Looking into the RT tube
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136863&d=1603979111

So I took it all apart and the bearing and nylon bushing rode perfectly on the shaft by themselves. That confirmed that I have them misaligned. I polished the shaft with scotchbrite, cleaned everything up, lubed with Boeshield and reassembled carefully checking each time I tightened up a mounting bolt. Here's a video after I remounted everything. Much better!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOQG1kpObtE

I also finished up installing the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 wipers. No doubt these were a lot more work than I had planned on. I didn't have them installed when I drove to get the car aligned the other week. It was a foggy AM and I had water all over the windshield making it almost impossible to see! Fortunately I have long arms and was able to reach over the top and wipe the windshield with a paper towel. Never again!

Here's the PS wiper. Note the 3D printed gasket between the bezel and the body.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136860&d=1603979069

Front on view
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136861&d=1603979082

I've also been tweaking the brake balance bar to get the bias set correctly. I'm not sure if I'm doing this correctly or not but my method has been to set it favoring the rear brakes, then adjusting it toward the front after each test drive. I would get up to 35-40 MPH, mash on the brakes until something locked up. Once I got to the point where the front brakes locked up before the rear, I figured that's about right?

I also have been playing around with the brake and clutch pedal pads. Adjusting them to get me more foot room (size 11). I still feel that I can use some more room between the gas pedal and the brake pedal It's a bit too tight for my liking. Another 1/4 -1/2 inch would be perfect.

I'm also having an issue when I coast up to a stop and push the clutch in. I have the BPE347 with Holley Sniper EFI. The RPMs drop to near zero, but recover eventually. Papa on this forum gave me some things to look at/adjust so that's next on my list.

Another concern I have is that when I get back from a drive I do a post drive inspection. I noticed that the brake and clutch reservoirs get extremely warm to the touch. I don't know the exact temperature but they are hotter than I was expecting. I don't have my hood scoop installed yet so maybe when that gets installed it'll help with airflow under the hood? Has anybody else experience this?

Thanks for any insight.

Enjoying the ride!

[edwardb]

I also finished up installing the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 wipers. No doubt these were a lot more work than I had planned on. I didn't have them installed when I drove to get the car aligned the other week. It was a foggy AM and I had water all over the windshield making it almost impossible to see! Fortunately I have long arms and was able to reach over the top and wipe the windshield with a paper towel. Never again!

Good to hear you're driving. Taking it slow and easy at first and that's good. They are a blast. Good find on that drag in the steering column. That alignment is pretty tight. I had a similar issue with the Coupe that I just was able to resolve. But my interference (very slight) was where the modified end of the Factory Five steering wheel adapter went into the turn signal assembly.

Glad to hear you were able to get those wipers to work. The bezels and gaskets look great. One comment (a little to my defense...) you say a lot more work than you expected. Compared to what? You haven't lived until you've tried to install and get the Lucas style wipers to work properly. I'll bet you might have a slightly different impression if you had that experience. Just saying. :p Also, FWIW, a lot of us bend the arms down a bit so they park parallel to the bottom of the windshield. Looks a little better. But you may be finished messing with them, which I understand.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/.highres/IMG_2915_zps49a55ff7.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/04489270-8f67-407e-8edc-55ee0bd3e558/p/d28a1983-464a-4cca-a278-76f3a88daa85)

[Caddy Dad]

Good to hear you're driving. Taking it slow and easy at first and that's good. They are a blast. Good find on that drag in the steering column. That alignment is pretty tight. I had a similar issue with the Coupe that I just was able to resolve. But my interference (very slight) was where the modified end of the Factory Five steering wheel adapter went into the turn signal assembly.

Glad to hear you were able to get those wipers to work. The bezels and gaskets look great. One comment (a little to my defense...) you say a lot more work than you expected. Compared to what? You haven't lived until you've tried to install and get the Lucas style wipers to work properly. I'll bet you might have a slightly different impression if you had that experience. Just saying. :p Also, FWIW, a lot of us bend the arms down a bit so they park parallel to the bottom of the windshield. Looks a little better. But you may be finished messing with them, which I understand.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/.highres/IMG_2915_zps49a55ff7.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/04489270-8f67-407e-8edc-55ee0bd3e558/p/d28a1983-464a-4cca-a278-76f3a88daa85)

LOL! Yep, you're right. This was the first time I've ever installed wipers so I have nothing to compare it to. Sounds like I'm fortunate to skip the Lucas experience. I was wondering how you got the wipers to park parallel to the windshield. If I get bored over this winter I may take a look at bending them slightly but for now, like you said, I'm tired of messing with them.

[Caddy Dad]

I've been putting more break in miles on my roadster and just rolled over 400 miles. So far I've only had one piece fall off. The DS O2 sensor bung hole plug went missing somewhere on I-95. I started hearing a loud pop on deceleration. My post drive inspection revealed it missing as well as the ball flange bolts needed tightening up. I installed the plug with Permatex Ultra copper but I guess it worked itself loose. Napa bung hole plug P/N 35299 $10.

I've never driven one of these before so I really didn't know how the steering, brakes or suspension felt. I have the power steering rack from FFR with the Breeze offset bushings. At highway speeds the steering is very sensitive but manageable. I don't need a dead pedal (and didn't install one) because I find that I can stretch out my left foot and rest it on the 2 inch round tube on the left side of the footbox. The pedals were too narrow, so I replaced them with AC brake and clutch pedals and when I'm wearing Sparco driving shoes everything fits fine. I've been playing around with the brake bias and it seems to feel about right to me, but may need another turn or so toward the front brakes. I think I've got the Sniper EFI dialed in but it may need another tweak or two on the IAC. Papa has a nice thread on Learning to tune the Sniper. Very helpful!

At highway speeds, I'm turning about 3000 RPM, H20 coolant temp 78C, oil temp 95C and I'm not sure what my mileage is yet. The cooling fan doesn't come on while at road speed but cycles nicely when in traffic or at a light. Ear plugs are mandatory and when approaching 75 MPH the wind really gets loud. I don't have visors or wind wings installed yet. I'm sure those will help but I'm really not interested in going over 80 any time soon!

I went to my first cars and coffee this AM, gave away some free leftover stuff from my build and got lots of questions. The car is still in gel coat so lots of questions on the seams etc. Is it real? Yes, it's a real FFR roadster. LOL! How much does it cost? Is it fun to drive? etc. Several people said I did a good job, but I also didn't point out all the flaws.

Enjoyed the build, now enjoying the ride!

Cheers!

[GoDadGo]

Hey Caddy Dad,

I went to a couple of events in Gelcoat and got the same types of reactions.
The 1st even was last year at the High School where my oldest daughter Megan taught & coached.
The 2nd was on the way home from that event where the Coastal Cruisers were holding an open rod run near my home.

LINK: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1523

Youngsters and teenagers loved it at both events because I let them all sit in the Red Roadster which was a ton of fun to see their reactions.
Like you the car got a lot of attention, even though it was still sporting a Gelcoat finish with no carpet installed.
Glad You Had A Great Time At Cars & Coffee!

Go-Dad

[Jeff Kleiner]

...How much does it cost?...

I've had that one several times and usually answer with "About a buck and a half or 2 dollars a pound." You can sometimes see them trying to do the math as they walk away :D Feel free to adjust the per pound price accordingly to suit your build.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

I've had that one several times and usually answer with "About a buck and a half or 2 dollars a pound." You can sometimes see them trying to do the math as they walk away :D Feel free to adjust the per pound price accordingly to suit your build.

Jeff

Accurate As Hell Sir Jeffski!
2,350 lbs. X $2.00 = $47,000.00
-$45,000.00 is what I've spent.

[Papa]

Accurate As Hell Sir Jeffski!
2,350 lbs. X $2.00 = $47,000.00
-$45,000.00 is what I've spent.

You're an order of magnitude off there Steve. At $2.00/pound, you'd come in under $5,000 for the build. At that price, I'd be on build number two already! :p

[GoDadGo]

2,350 lbs. X $20.00 = $47,000.00
..$45,000.00 is what I've spent.

Correction Thanks To Papa Dave!

[Caddy Dad]

Looks what showed up today after 6 months of hard work. The base coat color is BMW Sakhir orange with Lexus Pewter stripes. Finished off with a hand painted thin black pinstripe on outside edges of the pewter stripes. The base coat has the effect of appearing to be different colors depending on the angle of the light. Sometimes it red, sometimes its copper, sometimes its a bit orange, sometimes a bit of gold shows through. Pictures don't do it justice.

Now the hard part is to put it all back together without scratching it up!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150854&d=1626274146

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150852&d=1626274055

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150851&d=1626273982

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150853&d=1626274146

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150847&d=1626273799

[Papa]

Wow, great color combo! She looks stunning.

Dave

[RJD]

Looks great!

[JV1953]

WOW!! Looks awesome!

[David Hodgkins]

OUTSTANDING! LOVE the color combo!

:)

[ggunter]

Wow Caddy she is spectacular, did you get it done here in Md.

[JB in NOVA]

Sweet! I can't wait to see everything assembled.

[Caddy Dad]

Wow Caddy she is spectacular, did you get it done here in Md.

Yes, Signature Finishes on Belle Grove Road in Baltimore. This was there first Factory Five car. The body fit and finish was a lot more work than they initially thought. But it came out looking fantastic

[hineas]

Downright beautiful

[cgundermann]

Very, very nice looking!

Chris

[GoDadGo]

...................N-N-N-Nice!

Orange you glad you went with that striking color?

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Caddy! All I can say is WOWZA!

[KDubU]

She’s a beauty! Must look awesome in person.

[ggunter]

Belle Grove Rd!!! I work 1/4 mile form there at the MACK dealer. I'm going to talk to them today. Thanks.

[WIS89]

Caddy-

Great choice on colors; she really looks fantastic!! You must be over the moon with how that turned out. I really love your color choices, and they really complement each other nicely!

Congratulations on hitting a huge milestone, and I look forward to seeing her all buttoned up!

Regards,

Steve

[Caddy Dad]

Went to my introduction to auto cross class today sponsored by the Chesapeake region Porsche car club. Awesome people and great class. My instructor Dave was super excited to be riding with me. He was also really impressed with the cars handling and offered some suggestions on tweaking the suspension a bit and dialing in the brake bias a bit more to the rear. I was really having fun learning the limits of under/over steer of the mk iv. I even managed to do a 360 transitioning from one skid pad to the other. Everyone clapped! There’s a fine line between not enough and too much throttle on these cars. It’s a lot of fun just finding out where that line is though! Halfway through the slalom session my mk iv started over heating and dumping AF in the pits. Arg! Game over! Turns out the cooling fan was not coming on. Come to think of it I haven't heard it coming on for a while now. I got home and studied the wiring schematic and realized that the horn relay and fan relay are identical and right next to each other on the fuse panel. Horn works so I swapped it with the fan relay and now the fan works just fine. Bad relay. So I’m looking for recommendations on a robust replacement relay and a few spares to carry with me. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Here's a picture before the class.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153261&d=1631394524

Some more pictures from the class at the Bowie Baysox minor league stadium
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153258&d=1631394401

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153259&d=1631394401

[Papa]

Any Bosch type relay will work. Pick one up at Napa or any auto parts store. If you are concerned about quality, just pick up an actual Bosch, Delco, or other name brand.