Marsha's Gen-1 33 build by Wallace18

[wallace18]

The very first FFR kit I ever built was a Gen-1 33.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8759-Wallace18-s-33-build

Marsha, my wife was never happy that I sold that car. Well as luck would have it I am getting a Gen-1 33 kit partially done tomorrow. It has a 347 Blueprint engine/trans package. I was fortunate to get this at a very good price. I really wanted to build one of the new Speedstars, but I could not pass up this deal. I will post photos and details tomorrow. Marsha, my wife gets to pick out the color and interior color. We will do a semi-custom interior on this one vs the standard one I usually do. I am looking forward to this as a way of getting out of the dog house somewhat, LOL. :cool:

[progmgr1]

Very few Gen-1 builds anymore. Glad to see a "new" one added to the active roster. I'm really interested in seeing your custom interior. I have been putting the interior off while I work on other stuff, so you have time to catch up to me. Your previous work was always top notch, so the new interior should be spectacular! (no pressure) Keith HR#894

[wallace18]

Very few Gen-1 builds anymore. Glad to see a "new" one added to the active roster. I'm really interested in seeing your custom interior. I have been putting the interior off while I work on other stuff, so you have time to catch up to me. Your previous work was always top notch, so the new interior should be spectacular! (no pressure) Keith HR#894

Thanks. This one is most likely among the last Gen-1's. The fellow that ordered it thought he was getting a Gen-2 but since he ordered it in Nov. 2018 he got a Gen-1. The Gen-2 was already at SEMA and all.

[wallace18]

Picked up The kit today with the help of my friend Art. The kit is partially done but I am going to take it almost completely apart as I want to do some of the stuff very differently than the previous owner did. All part of the fun, LOL. All new stuff. Here is a partial list.

From Blueprint a BP3473CTFK 347 small block Ford with A/C, Alt, Sniper EFI, Starter, flex plate, oil and filter. Also a Ford BPPFFR4R70W Automatic transmission.
From FFR the following:
Hot Rod Complete Kit
Powder coated frame, 18/20" Black Bonneville style wheel/tire set
302 engine mounts, spread rear exhaust, FFR EFI fuel system
28 spline drive shaft
Vinyl seats, Hot Rod A/C kit
3-link rear suspension, Moser 8.8 3:55 rear axle,11.65" rear disc brakes, Electric P/S
Hood, sides, Hardtop, P/W windows
Bike fender kit, Paintable tilt column, FFR gauge cluster, FFR floor mats

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Also came with aftermarket shaved door handle kit, Hideaway stereo system Lizard skin, X-Mats as well as numerous other high end parts.

[Aircontroller]

Wow! Excellent acquisition! Pls post as much as possible on your progress !:cool:

[wallace18]

`With the holidays it is hard to find time to work on Marsha's 33. I did get a few hours today. I pulled off the body, the top of the firewall, P/B and got rid of the front fender mounts. We are not going to do front fenders. Not sure about the rear ones as of yet. I want to engine turn firewall. Also redo the fuel system, wiring and exhaust. So lots of removal for now.

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[wallace18]

Had a 1/2 day to work on the 33. I engine turned fire wall, added extra insulation on cockpit side and installed polished 10/32 button head screws. I painted all the bare metal parts. I also removed the fuel system lines, pump and filter as well as the + battery cable. I was not happy with how it was done so I am going to start over on all of that. I will also replace Whitby 1" master with 1.12 Wilwood unit.

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[Aircontroller]

What prompted you to remove that entire fuel system?



Had a 1/2 day to work on the 33. I engine turned fire wall, added extra insulation on cockpit side and installed polished 10/32 button head screws. I painted all the bare metal parts. I also removed the fuel system lines, pump and filter as well as the + battery cable. I was not happy with how it was done so I am going to start over on all of that. I will also replace Whitby 1" master with 1.12 Wilwood unit.

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[wallace18]

What prompted you to remove that entire fuel system?

It was done incorrectly.

[WIS89]

Tom-

Congratulations on the acquisition! Looks like you got yourself a kit with a great package of higher end parts! Like all your builds, I look forward to following along with your progress. I like how you are using this as a get out of the doghouse project; I can always use one of those!!

You are off to a great start, as always, and I look forward to seeing how this turns out. Thanks for taking the time to show us how you do it!

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Got in a few hours the last 2 days. I removed the entire fuel system except for the fuel tank and Sniper. I used the braided fuel lines that FFR supplied like I did on my last MK4 build. I also removed most of the wiring and redoing it so it flows much better and will not chafe. Installed a master disconnect as well as new battery to starter wiring and Alt. I also removed the 2 heater hoses and used 2-90 degree fittings so they flow better and do not kink. As this is my 14th kit I have a certain way I like to do things so making it work better for me is a plus.

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[FF33rod]

Tom, your post reminds me that I still have to figure out what to do with the tank vent. What is your plan?

Steve

[wallace18]

The tank vent goes to a charcoal canister FFR provides now. In the past they did not supply one so I made one or got one out of a boneyard.

[wallace18]

Worked mostly on fixing exhaust today. Anyone who has built a Gen-1 33 knows how tight the exhaust is in the frame. I heard this is fixed on Gen-2. I take the pipes and oval them in my vice so I have ample clearance. First photo shows how exhaust is hitting frame then after vice you can see the difference in air gap. I also installed Wilwood master and gas pedal as well as Lokar throttle cable.

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[AJT '33]

Worked mostly on fixing exhaust today. Anyone who has built a Gen-1 33 knows how tight the exhaust is in the frame. I heard this is fixed on Gen-2. I take the pipes and oval them in my vice so I have ample clearance. First photo shows how exhaust is hitting frame then after vice you can see the difference in air gap. I also installed Wilwood master and gas pedal as well as Lokar throttle cable.

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My son and I will be doing exactly the same thing this weekend to finalize the exhaust installation! Really Like that Wilwood master setup!

[wallace18]

I put Lizard Skin on bottom of floors and select other aluminum panels. Installed floors and driveshaft cover.

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[TxMike64]

Got in a few hours the last 2 days. I removed the entire fuel system except for the fuel tank and Sniper. I used the braided fuel lines that FFR supplied like I did on my last MK4 build. I also removed most of the wiring and redoing it so it flows much better and will not chafe. Installed a master disconnect as well as new battery to starter wiring and Alt. I also removed the 2 heater hoses and used 2-90 degree fittings so they flow better and do not kink. As this is my 14th kit I have a certain way I like to do things so making it work better for me is a plus.

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As a pro buiklder what is your opinion of the FFR EFI Kit? Worth it? and what all does it include?

[wallace18]

As a pro buiklder what is your opinion of the FFR EFI Kit? Worth it? and what all does it include?


For the novice the FFR it is worth it IMO. It comes with a pump, lines, fittings, filters and pressure regulator. I sometimes like to use different stuff. Both FFR efi units I installed were ordered by someone other than me. I have installed the FFR efi twice and have modified it some from the instructions with good results.

[wallace18]

Got to work on the 33 a few hours yesterday. Marsha noticed my 35 P/U steering column was chrome. She wanted her to be chrome also. FFR shipped one very quickly to us and I installed it. It does look much better, Imo.

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[wallace18]

Spent all day yesterday replacing my 8' fluorescent lights with 8' LED units. So much brighter now. I really like being able to see well while working.

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[peterh226]

Spent all day yesterday replacing my 8' fluorescent lights with 8' LED units. So much brighter now. I really like being able to see well while working.

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The LED Lights are amazing - brighter, no warm up in winter, and no buzzzz. Best upgrade for a garage in support of maturing eyesight.

[wallace18]

After going back and forth with Blueprint and Performance Transmission I finally gave up trying to get information on the 6 all black wires that come out of the selector switch on the side of the 4R70W transmission that Blueprint sells as a package with the 347 for the 33 Hot Rod. This is what the fellow I bought this kit from bought. There are 6 black wires(7 thru 12)that come out of the switch where the selector rod goes for the shifter. They are about 6" long and not attached to anything. I finally found this wiring diagram that matches the switch connector. I verified all the connections with my ohm meter.The connector has the wire #'s on it as well. Not sure why Blueprint or Performance transmission would not offer this needed info but here it is for anyone else buying this transmission/ engine package from Blueprint. If you want to have a lockout relay so the car only starts in neutral or park use wires 10 &12 for your relay coil inline for your start circuit wire. For back up lights I will also use a relay and wire the coil using wires 9&11. wires 2 thru 6 are for the auto trans shift functions. Hope this helps someone out. It took me lots of phone and internet time to get this info. I will post in General info as well.

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[FFinisher]

After going back and forth with Blueprint and Performance Transmission I finally gave up trying to get information on the 6 all black wires that come out of the selector switch on the side of the 4R70W transmission that Blueprint sells as a package with the 347 for the 33 Hot Rod. This is what the fellow I bought this kit from bought. There are 6 black wires(7 thru 12)that come out of the switch where the selector rod goes for the shifter. They are about 6" long and not attached to anything. I finally found this wiring diagram that matches the switch connector. I verified all the connections with my ohm meter.The connector has the wire #'s on it as well. Not sure why Blueprint or Performance transmission would offer this needed info but here it is for anyone else buying this transmission/ engine package from Blueprint. If you want to have a lockout relay so the car only starts in neutral or park use wires 10 &12 for your relay coil inline for your start circuit wire. For back up lights I will also use a relay and wire the coil using wires 9&11. wires 2 thru 6 are for the auto trans shift functions. Hope this helps someone out. It took me lots of phone and internet time to get this info. I will post in General info as well.


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Tom, I think you are going to find that shifter Won't work like that. The lever has to be facing down. the way you have it will be backwards...

I just did one of these in a roadster.

[wallace18]

Ron, It goes into Park when it is supposed to and all the rest as it is set up. Not sure why the one you had was opposite.

[FFinisher]

Ron, It goes into Park when it is supposed to and all the rest as it is set up. Not sure why the one you had was opposite.

... I used a cable. So it pushes when your shift rods pull and pulls when your shift rods push.

HUH?

[wallace18]

... I used a cable. So it pushes when your shift rods pull and pulls when your shift rods push.

HUH?
I think you hit it on the head. It is the difference of cable vs rod.

[wallace18]

Got to do some work today. The rest of the Gen-2 hood hinge brackets came in. Got them all mounted. Very stout S/S assembly IMO. I like much better than Gen-1 set-up. I also finished up the engine compartment hoses. I got my Replicaparts radiator hose kit installed and finished up the A/C hoses as well. I really prefer the Vintage Air front runner system compared to this March setup Blueprint installs. I tried to make the hoses hide the best I could. For what I payed for this kit I should not complain, LOL.

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[FF33rod]

So the Gen 2 hinge assembly works fine with the rest of the Gen 1 hinge mount, hood, etc?

I guess this means that the hood no longer slides back into place and you need to put a latch top/mid firewall?

Steve

[wallace18]

It is all different. The hood just pivots up at the back and is held in place at the firewall with the striker. The only Gen-1 parts used are the cable and handle. Just like the 35 P/U. You still use the Gen-1 hood.

[TxMike64]

It is all different. The hood just pivots up at the back and is held in place at the firewall with the striker. The only Gen-1 parts used are the cable and handle. Just like the 35 P/U. You still use the Gen-1 hood.

Just the striker/latch in the middle? seems it would wobble/dance around not being secured on the sides.

[tony]

I wonder how much it would be to buy just the front hinge? I just finished mine up and what a hunk of junk it is on the gen 1.
that new setup look much nicer!

[wallace18]

To answer the last 2 questions. No the hood stays nice and flat all the time. At least up to 100 MPH on my 35, LOL. You must buy the entire Gen-2 setup. Not just the hinges. FFR can price it out for you.

[progmgr1]

I sent an email to FFR last Friday asking about Gen 2 hood hinge price and availability, but haven't received an answer yet. If anyone hears from them, please post the response in this thread. TIA, Keith

[Tampa33Build]

Ordered mine last week. The front bracket was $298 plus shipping. I did not order the latch yet.

[wallace18]

Been working on the 33. Not much to show. Mostly wiring and finished up A/C/Heat. Video is a little misleading. It is first start after getting all ECU's programmed and everything tuned properly. Neither Sniper or MSD ECU were programmed. Strange since both supposedly run on dyno before shipping. The 4R70W did not come with very much in the way of info. It took a fair amount of internet surfing to find all the needed stuff to program and wire it. I still need to finish up the wires. I left everything long just to see if all worked OK first. Now I will make it as neat as I can, LOL.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6rJq_efdTs&feature=youtu.be

[wallace18]

OK for anyone else that buys this Blueprint engine/trans package this car has you will need to buy this yolk for the trans. FFR supplies the standard T-5/AOD driveshaft. The only issue is that for the 4R70W the splines are the same but the outside diameter needs to be 50 thousands larger. Hence the leak I have on the floor. I have been back and forth with FFR and Blueprint on this. The correct part #is a DANA 2-3-14061X. Here is link to Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-3-14061x/overview/



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egkUyCgT-Ic&feature=youtu.be

[progmgr1]

I heard from David Correia at FFR this afternoon. He quoted the Gen 2 hood hinge components (34815) at $310 plus shipping. Looks like everything is included, and will require only some minor mods to adapt to my Gen 1 Hot Rod. Thanks to Tom W. for letting us know that this option is available to us Gen 1 builders!
Keith

[wallace18]

I heard from David Correia at FFR this afternoon. He quoted the Gen 2 hood hinge components (34815) at $310 plus shipping. Looks like everything is included, and will require only some minor mods to adapt to my Gen 1 Hot Rod. Thanks to Tom W. for letting us know that this option is available to us Gen 1 builders!
Keith

Your welcome!

[wallace18]

It has been a strange few days for sure. First I did get the correct drive shaft yoke and it works great! Not sure why FFR or Blueprint cannot give you the correct one for this combo, Oh well. Next I got the wiring run so I could install the transmission tunnel. Not sure why it was cut up so badly. I ended up fixing the holes with some aluminum. Next I was trying to bleed the brakes. Normally an easy deal for me in the past. It seems I had 2 things fighting me. 1st the Wilwood master was bad and leaked internally. 2nd the previous builder used 6 unions to do the brake lines. I redid the lines and am waiting on a new master . Then I can go-cart.

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[Aircontroller]

Is this an issue particular to Gen 1 or does that affect Gen 2 also?


OK for anyone else that buys this Blueprint engine/trans package this car has you will need to buy this yolk for the trans. FFR supplies the standard T-5/AOD driveshaft. The only issue is that for the 4R70W the splines are the same but the outside diameter needs to be 50 thousands larger. Hence the leak I have on the floor. I have been back and forth with FFR and Blueprint on this. The correct part #is a DANA 2-3-14061X. Here is link to Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-3-14061x/overview/



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egkUyCgT-Ic&feature=youtu.be

[wallace18]

It has nothing to do with gen-1 or 2 it is the 4R70W uses a different yoke than FFR offers on their drive shafts. FFR currently does not offer a drive shaft with the correct yoke.

[wallace18]

I got a new CPP master cylinder from Summit. Neat unit it has a built in adjustable rear brake pressure regulator. I adjusted the stroke on the booster rod as well as changed the angle of the booster and brake pedal so now everything works perfectly. Not sure if the previous owner got all the right stuff from Jeff. I was able to modify it to work for me. All I have left is front alignment then I go-cart!:cool:

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[wallace18]

Had a great Morning! I finished up the front end alignment and took the 33 out for a test drive. We live in a rural neighborhood that has many roads and is basically empty of cars when everyone is at work. Car drove perfect, ran 190 all the time. Good oil pressure and transmission shifts great. I love driving go-cart stage. This thing is like driving a sprint car. Instant throttle response. Very pleased other that I think this one is faster than my 35 P/U, LOL. Here is short video. :cool:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w8PLzDmOGU&feature=youtu.be

[TxMike64]

I got a new CPP master cylinder from Summit. Neat unit it has a built in adjustable rear brake pressure regulator.

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I'm planning on using the Whitbey power brake setup, but one thing that I've never liked was the extreme angle of the mounting. So I had been thinking about making my own setup using a similar CPP MC and making my own firewall bracket.

120748

Did you use Jeff's booster or the CPP booster? Looks like a single 7". And I'll have to figure out the pushrod as well.

[wallace18]

I'm planning on using the Whitbey power brake setup, but one thing that I've never liked was the extreme angle of the mounting. So I had been thinking about making my own setup using a similar CPP MC and making my own firewall bracket.

120748

Did you use Jeff's booster or the CPP booster? Looks like a single 7". And I'll have to figure out the pushrod as well.

I modified Jeff's mount. I used his booster as well. I think I may try to make my own P/B kit next time.

[Olli]

Wallace, very off topic question here. How wide is your driveway?

Olli

[wallace18]

Wallace, very off topic question here. How wide is your driveway?

Olli

12' wide Works well for burn outs!, LOL.:cool:

[wallace18]

Getting chassis ready for body to go on. Do yourself a favor and glue the brass bushings in place for the doors. You will thank me when you put the doors on and off a few times during the build. Ask me how I know, LOL. This is my 3rd 33 build. :cool:

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[wallace18]

Had time today to build a body buck. I have a universal base that I have used for GTM, 818, Type65 and 33.I just make the rest as I need. I have a dedicated buck just for MK4's. I mocked up area for cowl openings. Gen-2 guys do not have to do the cowl openings due to the removable dash front. There is some work you can do before putting the body on the chassis. You can do the cowl openings, dash cutouts, tail lights holes, clearance the trunk opening for the lid and seal and A/C vent holes. I also will coat the underside with truck bed liner before installing on chassis.

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[wallace18]

Had a good day today. I had to break out my propane torpedo heater today. 40 degrees this morning in FL. It will be 30 and 28 next 2 mornings, BRRRRR! I was able to install some nutserts for the cowl openings and engine turned the covers. I also mocked up the tail lights. I trimmed the trunk opening. If you do not do this you may have problems closing the lid. I trim the edge to 5/16" and then use a belt sander to make sure the thickness is correct for mounting the trunk seal. If the edge is too thick the seal won't install properly. I finished up doing all my dash holes. Instruments, A/C controls, A/C vents, light switch, Hi/LO beam switch, ignition switch and aux. fan switch. Hope to cover the underside with Bed-liner on Wednesday.

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[FF33rod]

You're moving quickly. 5/16" is quite the difference from the 3/4" that the manual states. Good pointer on the thickness...

[wallace18]

You're moving quickly. 5/16" is quite the difference from the 3/4" that the manual states. Good pointer on the thickness...

I tried the 3/4 once and the lower rear drivers side corner was hitting the raised part of the trunk lid and would not let it sit down flush. Just something I ran into on 2 previous builds. You can always do 3/4" try fitting the trunk lid then trim as needed.

[wallace18]

Warmed up to a whopping 56 here today, LOL. I did take the body off the buck and found some big bubbles and voids in the fiberglass. Not the first time I have seen this in an FFR kit but pretty bad here in the back. I will fill with Dura-Glass down the road. I did have time to coat the underside of the body with HF bed-liner. I will let this dry for 48 Hours then hopefully start mounting the body Friday or next week. I am going to get checked out tomorrow for cataract surgery. Not sure how long I will be out of commission.

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[Aircontroller]

You'll be up and going in no time!





Warmed up to a whopping 56 here today, LOL. I did take the body off the buck and found some big bubbles and voids in the fiberglass. Not the first time I have seen this in an FFR kit but pretty bad here in the back. I will fill with Dura-Glass down the road. I did have time to coat the underside of the body with HF bed-liner. I will let this dry for 48 Hours then hopefully start mounting the body Friday or next week. I am going to get checked out tomorrow for cataract surgery. Not sure how long I will be out of commission.

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[Dodgeman]

That's what mine looks like, Voids and putty in every seam, some seams I will have to reglass from the inside, couple of seams are less than 1/8" thick. I've been working on it for 4-months now when time allows and i am home.
I'ts almost fustrating knowing that Factory Five lets this go out the door. What is their QA/QC doing, or do they even have a QA department?

Bob

[JOP33]

That's what mine looks like, Voids and putty in every seam, some seams I will have to reglass from the inside, couple of seams are less than 1/8" thick. I've been working on it for 4-months now when time allows and i am home.
I'ts almost fustrating knowing that Factory Five lets this go out the door. What is their QA/QC doing, or do they even have a QA department?

Bob

I had some similar issues with regards to my Hardtop...voids, weaknesses, cracks. I sent pics to FFR as it added about 30 - 40 hours to the body work...didn't get any response with this particular issue. Was extremely frustrated by the quality (again specifically on hardtop) and then doubly frustrated by no response.

[cob427sc]

Are you guys building Gen 1 or 2? Mine is a Gen 2 and it does not have anywhere near the body issues you have experienced. I will admit the door jamb near the hinges was a little thin, however this is not a structural point and only required a little touch up on the backside. I have been building FFR cars since 1998 and I can tell you the bodies are soooooo much better than they used to be in both finish and fit.

[wallace18]

Mine is in the title of the thread.

[wallace18]

Installed the body on the chassis today. I lower the body down with a winch I have mounted in my ceiling. First I attach the firewall then the rear wheel well bolts then the side area inside the door opening. I tap the frame side rails with a 10-32 tap and secure with 10-32 screws. I do not use any rivets to hold body on. This makes it easy to remove for paint later. I like the body in its proper place and secure before moving on. Then I do the door hinge cutouts.

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[FF33rod]

Tom, it just occurred to me that this kit you picked up is around the same vintage as mine - one of the last of the Gen1. As such, some changes were likely already made to the chassis. One of the items that a couple of us have found is that the striker mount location has been welded a couple of inches higher than older Gen1s. When we went to install the striker and get it to engage with the latch we couldn't get the striker low enough and FFR had to fab some different mount plates for us. Just fyi in case you run into the same issue.
Steve

[wallace18]

Tom, it just occurred to me that this kit you picked up is around the same vintage as mine - one of the last of the Gen1. As such, some changes were likely already made to the chassis. One of the items that a couple of us have found is that the striker mount location has been welded a couple of inches higher than older Gen1s. When we went to install the striker and get it to engage with the latch we couldn't get the striker low enough and FFR had to fab some different mount plates for us. Just fyi in case you run into the same issue.
Steve

Thanks, I will pay close attention to that when I do the doors.

[wallace18]

I removed the body and did some trimming on the dash for the steering column. I also installed my A/C and Defrost hoses. I use #10x1/2" pan head screws to hold hoses on A/C unit. I also block off center A/C outlet. I just use 2 outside vents. I finished up exhaust after reinstalling body.

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[wallace18]

Started on the passenger door today. I use Erik Hansen's 5-part video as well as the FFR manual. I sort of combine the best of both. Below is a link to video's. First I install the top hinge arm with all the bushings. I use 2 different washers so I get a good tight fit of the arm to the frame bracket. Then I lay a ruler on top of the arm to get a mark for the top of the cutout. I then use Erik's measurements but I do not make them as long as he has them. You can always remove more if you need it down the road. After installing the top arm, I install the door parts and trace a mark for the lower arm, using Erik's measurements again. Do yourself a favor and mock up all the door stuff if you are doing P/W. Don't forget to trim the P/W channel as per the FFR manual. Tomorrow I should bw able to finish up the Passenger door.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5522-Installing-the-Doors-a-5-part-video

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[wallace18]

Tom, it just occurred to me that this kit you picked up is around the same vintage as mine - one of the last of the Gen1. As such, some changes were likely already made to the chassis. One of the items that a couple of us have found is that the striker mount location has been welded a couple of inches higher than older Gen1s. When we went to install the striker and get it to engage with the latch we couldn't get the striker low enough and FFR had to fab some different mount plates for us. Just fyi in case you run into the same issue.
Steve

You are correct Steve. I have the same issue. I called FFR and am waiting on Tony to get back to me. All part of the fun, LOL. :rolleyes:

[wallace18]

Tony at FFR is shipping me the correct striker plates. It seems the last few Gen-1 chassis had the Gen-2 dip towards the front of the door openings on the frame. They take slightly different plates. No biggie, I have plenty to keep me busy. I did do most everything to the drivers door today that I can . I did just like the passenger side. I will start on trunk tomorrow.

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[wallace18]

Installed the trunk lid today. I used a trick another forum member used to locate the trunk hinge brackets. The double sided foam tape worked great! I taped the lid in place and pushed up the brackets from the bottom. The brackets stayed in place after I removed the side bolts. Then just marked and drilled. I used 6/32 screws for the latch instead of rivets. That way I can easy remove for paint. Lid opens and closes like a charm.

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[wallace18]

Went to install my rear cockpit rear cover and found out the way the previous guy ran the fuel lines made it impossible to install the cover properly. I was able to move the suction fitting on the tank unit enough to get clearance. I also had an issue with the top area of the body where it meets to trunk lid was low. I had this same issue on my last 33 build. I install 2 adjustable hood bumpers I get from the boneyard on the rear top frame bar. This way I can adjust them to get a great alignment of the body and the trunk lid. I did end up getting the cover mocked up. Installed the 1/4-20 rivnuts on the body. Still need to do speaker and roll bar holes.

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[progmgr1]

Got to do some work today. The rest of the Gen-2 hood hinge brackets came in. Got them all mounted. Very stout S/S assembly IMO. I like much better than Gen-1 set-up.

Sorry to dredge up such an old topic, but I just got my Gen 2 hood hinges from FFR and was wondering what changes you had to make to adapt these pieces to the Gen 1 Hot Rod? Is it just a matter of drilling new mounting holes or something more? Thanks, Keith

[wallace18]

Sorry to dredge up such an old topic, but I just got my Gen 2 hood hinges from FFR and was wondering what changes you had to make to adapt these pieces to the Gen 1 Hot Rod? Is it just a matter of drilling new mounting holes or something more? Thanks, Keith

Since I am just building this Gen-1 I have not had to do anything but install the hinges to the radiator brackets. I have not mounted the hood yet. If you already have the Gen-1 hood completely installed , I am not sure what you will have to do. Sorry I can't help at this time.

[RDieck]

I love the jeweled firewall. That's my plan!

[wallace18]

Finished up the rear cockpit cover or waterfall as I call it. Let me share a few tips I learned installing these with the roll bar. First I take a long shaft that I cut a slit in. I put some 60 grit paper in it and clean out the inside roll bar tubes on the frame. Then I clean the outside of the roll bar where it slips in the frame tubes. This makes for an easier time of install and removal. Next I have 2 long boards that have a hole that the roll bar fits through. I put the roll bar thru the boards and into the frame tubes. I then clamp the boards down to the body. I remove the roll bar and temp install the waterfall. Then I set the roll bar thru the boards making sure it is at the proper angle. This allows for easy marking of your hole saw cut. Then I just remove the roll bar and drill out the holes at the correct angle. Perfect hole every time at least for me. Much easier than the manual way, IMO. I mocked up my speaker holes and now can move on to the hood on Monday.

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[FF33rod]

Thanks for the tips, definitely the way to go as compared to the manual...

[Dodgeman]

What size speakers are they? are they in a good location so you can hear the sound system.

[wallace18]

What size speakers are they? are they in a good location so you can hear the sound system.

6" 3-way. Same location I put them in other 33 builds and seems to sound good to me. Most of the music comes from the car though, LOL.:cool:

[wallace18]

I was very surprised Fed Ex delivered Marsha's seats yesterday at 11:30 AM. Anyway they are from PRP out of Calif. Marsha wanted seats with headrests and adjustable lumbar. I bought these mainly because they fit the narrow area of the 33 floor. The mounts are very nice, 3" tall and only 11" wide. We put the roof on and both her and I fit fine with this combo. We will have them recovered in leather once she decided on her colors for the car. Adjustable headrests and inflatable lumbar.

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[wallace18]

The updated striker brackets came in the mail the other day. I was able to finish up the passenger door today. I also installed my door solenoids for my shaved doors. Everything went together fine. I use some of the FFR outside door handle parts to do my solenoids. I hope to get drivers side tomorrow.

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[wallace18]

Struggled a bit with the drivers door this morning. I finally won the battle, LOL. Moving on to the lower radiator cowl tomorrow. Taking rest of the day off to help out the wife.

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[tony]

Im so jealous how fast you put it together. I'm 9 months in and just in the middle of bodywork

[FF33rod]

Good luck with the radiator cowl - will be interesting to see how you approach it. Congrats on winning the battle with the driver's door, I lost. In the end both doors were hitting the door sill on the body and FFR is sending 2 Gen2 doors. What solenoids are you using Tom?

Tony, nothing wrong with being in the middle of bodywork after 9 months. That's actually darn quick IMO.

[wallace18]

Good luck with the radiator cowl - will be interesting to see how you approach it. Congrats on winning the battle with the driver's door, I lost. In the end both doors were hitting the door sill on the body and FFR is sending 2 Gen2 doors. What solenoids are you using Tom?

Tony, nothing wrong with being in the middle of bodywork after 9 months. That's actually darn quick IMO.

I buy the Spal unit set from Speedway.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/SPAL-SHAVED-40-Basic-Shaved-Door-Handle-Remote-Entry-Kit,42474.html

[wallace18]

Today I mocked up the rear aluminum parts for the rear cockpit area. Then I started on the lower radiator cowl. I start by clamping it to the sides then mark where I have to trim. Do a little at a time. I could not get the bottom to line up as I needed so I cut the cowl down the center and took a small pie cut out of one side. I use 10-32 screws to mount the cowl to the grill. This allowed me to get a nice tight fit. I then temporally riveted a aluminum piece to the bottom to hold the halves in place. Then removed it and fiberglassed the inside today. Tomorrow I will fill the void and glass the bottom. Hope to get the hood all mounted tomorrow also.

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[wallace18]

After installing rubber bumpers as per manual, I fitted hood. I still need to get at least a 1/8" gap in the front. I did remove brace between L&R hood hinge mounts and marked the passenger side of the hood for 1/4-20 Rivnuts. Ran out of time today. Will get back at it on Monday.

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[wallace18]

For several days and hours I have been pulling what little hair I have left out trying to get my hood to work with the Gen-2 hinge setup. It turns out FFR sent the incorrect arms. I have a feeling I am the first to do this to a Gen-1 so I will bear the trials, LOL. Tony is sending me the correct ones. If you are planning to do this also to a Gen-1 wait till I get done before you do anything. The photo I am posting is the wrong arms I have now. I started on my roof. Lots of voids and holes to fix, par for the course on some kits. I have had both ends of the spectrum when it comes to voids. Some good some not so good. I just fix them and move on.

122412 Incorrect arms!





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[progmgr1]

Sorry, but my old eyes have trouble making out the details in your photo. Does this look like the correct Gen 2 hinge parts? They're what I received from FFR last week, so I hope they're good.
Keith HR #894122421

[wallace18]

Yes it looks closer to what Tony is sending me..

[wallace18]

Sorry, but my old eyes have trouble making out the details in your photo. Does this look like the correct Gen 2 hinge parts? They're what I received from FFR last week, so I hope they're good.
Keith HR #894122421

I just got the same stuff today from FFR. I will install in next 2 days and let everyone know how it went.

[FFinisher]

Sorry, but my old eyes have trouble making out the details in your photo. Does this look like the correct Gen 2 hinge parts? They're what I received from FFR last week, so I hope they're good.
Keith HR #894122421

Yes those are correct.

[wallace18]

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I got the right stuff from Tony today. Hood works perfectly. I did not get the new cross brace. The 1st one they sent won't fit. I will make one.

[wallace18]

Today before I got the new hood set up I mounted my roof and drew out my cut lines for the windows. I use studs on the front and the back for the top.

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[FF33rod]

Tom, is the plan to permanently mount the hard top or are you going to make it flexible?
How come studs in the rear instead of as per the manual?
Was just starting this very process before I got side tracked with redoing my doors...
Steve

[Dodgeman]

Tom,
How much are the new hood hinges from Factory Five? they look better than the old design and just seem all around better.
Bob

[wallace18]

Tom,
How much are the new hood hinges from Factory Five? they look better than the old design and just seem all around better.
Bob

Call FFR for a price. I cannot remember what I paid.

[wallace18]

Tom, is the plan to permanently mount the hard top or are you going to make it flexible?
How come studs in the rear instead of as per the manual?
Was just starting this very process before I got side tracked with redoing my doors...
Steve

You need the doors done before the top install anyway. I do studs so there is a set place it goes every time . But you can do the studs just in the front and bolts in the back. It is just a personal preference.

[wallace18]

I was all over the build today. First I finished up the hood latch and stuff. Then I cut out the window area on the top of the doors. Finally mocked up passenger side panel.

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[wallace18]

I caught Marsha's cold unfortunately. I did take the time to lay out the side stripe based on Marsha's sketches. The dark area in the blue up front is for the engine cutout to let heat out. A must in FL. Not set in stone but she likes it. Now if I can get her to finalize the colors I will be a happy man, LOL.

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[TxMike64]

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I had no idea that's where the hood latch was.... I'm thinking now that there is going to be clearance issues because on the back center of my 4.6 DOHC intake I've got a fuel rail crossover, a coolant tube, two wiring harnesses, and the IMRC control cables. I'm double thinking using this motor... It seems every time I turn around I'm facing more challenges...

[wallace18]

Finally over the cold. I mounted the Driver's side panel and made cutouts for the headlights I mount the headlights right to the metal bracket and let them float in the fiberglass side panel. See my35 thread for more detailed pics. I have till Saturday to work on the 33. Then I have cataract surgery and will be out of work till the last week of March.

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[wallace18]

When I was getting area in doors ready for window weather strips I noticed the panels were not properly panel bonded together. Seems like this was last Gen-1 out the door and not a lot of love went into body. I had to completely redo tops of doors with epoxy. All will end up Ok in the long run but a PITA none the less.

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[FF33rod]

Yup, the last gen1 doors were UGLY. Both of mine had the inner shell bonded too far forward and too low. Spent a bunch of time building up the top of the doors to compensate only to find out that the inner part of the door hit the door sill of the body before it was far enough into the opening to be flush. Driver's was worse than passenger. FFR sent me 2 replacements that were Gen 2 doors. There's a slight difference in curvature of the outer rear part of the door but that can be easily fixed up with a bit of filler and sanding. The way the inner door lines up with the Gen 1 dash sucks though, that's going to require a big chunk of HSRF to start...

[progmgr1]

Tom,
I understand that was a common problem on Gen 1 bodies - something Dan Ruth warned me about many years ago. I haven't cut my window slots yet, but I'm expecting to face similar issues when I do.
Keith HR #894

[wallace18]

This is my 3rd Gen-1 33. The first 2 had little to no issues in the door area. Glad to hear the Gen-2 doors are better.

[JimLev]

Yup, the last gen1 doors were UGLY. Both of mine had the inner shell bonded too far forward and too low. Spent a bunch of time building up the top of the doors to compensate only to find out that the inner part of the door hit the door sill of the body before it was far enough into the opening to be flush.
The way the inner door lines up with the Gen 1 dash sucks though, that's going to require a big chunk of HSRF to start...

Yup, UGLY it is. My drivers door was replaced, it's better but still same problems as you have, it's a little better than the door that came with the car.

[wallace18]

Well I have been busy with cataract surgery and such. I am doing great from my surgery. I have been mowing grass and yard work as it is spring here in FL. My county is at a stay at home state due to the C-19 deal. We are staying home and I have been working on the 33 some. Mostly wiring up center console, backup camera and such. I was able to get a 2004-05 Sebring console from pick a part for 23 dollars. It fits great, IMO. Also has charging port inside as well as lighting in rear. I made a piece to hold radio and complete console up to dash. I covered part that had e-brake and cons. top switch with black plastic and mounted my window switches there. Everything works, radio, backup camera, etc. Speakers sound great. I am moving on to wiring up headlights then install roof and finish up windows. Not sure when it will go out for paint due to this C-19 stuff. Lucky for me I am retired and not much has changed for me vs other folks. Stay safe and God Bless to all.

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[DamnYankee]

Nice work. Console looks "factory" :-)

[FF33rod]

Amazing score on the console! Glad you're recovering from the surgery. Hope you remain healthy!

Steve

[progmgr1]

About how wide is that console? I've got the "old, fat guy" seats and there isn't much room between them for a console. Thanks, Keith

[wallace18]

About how wide is that console? I've got the "old, fat guy" seats and there isn't much room between them for a console. Thanks, Keith

The rear cup holders hang off about 1" on each side. The rest is very close to the trans tunnel. None of it bothers my seats.

[wallace18]

Today was passenger window day. I installed top and bolted it down with seals in place. I mostly follow the manual here with just a few exceptions. I install a 10-32 screw to the front window channel bracket and have a larger hole it passes thru on the frame. The channel bracket is tapped to accept the 10-32 screw. This not only makes this stronger but allows me to adjust the channel inside or out to get perfect window alignment thru the door opening. I also cut and remount my door solenoid cable mount. The stock position has the cable hit the door channel bracket. I have done this to 2 other 33 I built as well.

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[Roger Pugh]

Looking good!!

[wallace18]

I installed the Ah-oo-gah horn. Marsha loves the sound, LOL. I also cut out the openings in my side panels. I cut out the passenger side and then used it as a template to match the drivers side. I think we will use the same mesh I used on my 35 P/U. I am playing around with the idea to open similar holes in the top of the hood to vent out hot air. Down here when you drive to a place then park for an hour or so the heat builds up so much under the hood. Not sure what route I will go yet. Maybe some sort of louvers in the top of the hood?? Here are some pics of playing around with different mesh and hood deals.

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[Roger Pugh]

The build is looking great. Question for you, would you use the blueprint engine and tranny set up this kit came with again? or are you moving forward with it simply because of the good deal you got on the kit?
Roger

[wallace18]

The engine is great! The transmission really works well but I think I could save some money buying the transmission else where. My 35 P/U I got a trans for $200 used and put about $1,000 in it vs the cost of the trans from Blueprint. As a package it works great , but a little pricey IMO.

[wallace18]

Had my paint/bodywork guy Chris came by yesterday and give me a few hints on some body fixes I need to do before I send it to him. He also is helping Marsha pick out colors and interior leather colors. We will be doing a 2-tone interior on the seats, door panels and rear cockpit cover/waterfall. Brown in the center and black on the sides. Here is a few photos of the stuff we looked at. I ordered the leather and such.
I will be selling FFR door panels as well as Bike fender kit in the forum classified section. I am having custom door panels made and not using fenders.

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[FF33rod]

Going to look fantastic

[wallace18]

Windy and raining today. I do not like doing fiberglass sanding without my big doors open and fan blowing dust outside. So I engine turned the hood hinges and modified the brackets to allow the front to come down further for a good fit to the grill. Also had to trim cross brace to clear radiator cap. First photo shows one side engine turned and passenger side not. Then everything turned. Looks better IMO.

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[Salty Chief 35]

Very cool

[wallace18]

I am starting to run out of things to do other than bodywork. I normally do not do much bodywork or sanding. Not my cup of tea, so to speak, LOL. But I will do a little to keep busy on this build. Today I mocked up and wired the headlights that came from Rodworx a few days ago. Marsha really likes them vs the FFR LED units. I did do some mods to the hood and sides to get a closer fit to the grill area. Wish my body guy was not so busy so I don't have to do this stuff, but it is what it is.

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[cob427sc]

Did you ever sell the fenders? Last we spoke the shipping cost was significant but due to the cost from FFR and the fact I can't get them for awhile I might still be interested.

[wallace18]

Did you ever sell the fenders? Last we spoke the shipping cost was significant but due to the cost from FFR and the fact I can't get them for awhile I might still be interested.


PM sent

[wallace18]

Funny thing. I bought this kit back in Dec of 2019. I had several car guys come look at it and no one but me noticed that the 2 front tires where different manufacture. I did not notice this till a week ago. 3 of the tires where MT and the RF was a Nitto.:confused: The original owner never notice either so FFR got away with one, LOL. I did order another correct MT front tire and had it mounted and balanced. Now they are the same. LOL.:cool:

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[wallace18]

After looking around on the internet I found these Hagan door panel kits on Summit. I bought them for a fiberglass door. They came with a great instruction video as well. I used my patterns that I made from the FFR door panel before I sold them. I traced them out on the Hagan black weather proof door panel and fitted them to the doors so I had a 3/8" gap around the sides. Then drilled 1/8" holes and mounted with clecos. Next you open up the holes to 5/32" to allow you to install the clips. Then glue another piece of the black panel on top with Landau top glue. You end up with a nice flat panel without any screws showing. Hagan has all sorts of shapes that allow you to customize the door panel look. I will show you how these turn out after they come back from the interior shop some time down the road.

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https://www.haganauto.com/category_s/179.htm

[FF33rod]

Excellent, I had seen that and bookmarked it for future reference. Good to know it works well!

Steve

[wallace18]

Marsha's 33 is in the trailer heading to paint/body guy tomorrow morning. I sent out interior for custom leather on seats, door panels and rear cockpit cover last Sat. :cool:

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[wallace18]

Dropped off the 33 to my paint/body guy. I do some bartering work with him vs my paint bill. I have a 1970 Mach 1 to install wire harness, A 23 T to install harness and 2-5.0 motors to work on. One gets a 303E cam and the other a rebuild. This way paint/body bill does not kill me so much, LOL. :cool:

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[wallace18]

Marsha wanted an instrument surround that looked a little like my 35 P/U dash. I made this one out of 1/4" oak with black stain. Normally I am not very good with wood but Marsha and I are happy with the result.

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[LonDart]

Very nice

[wallace18]

Marsha finally choose her body color. It is a Toyota Tundra color ( Sunset Bronze) and the stripe will be White gold. Here is a spray out with interior colors.

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[wallace18]

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Body work coming along finally!:p

[wallace18]

Body work progressing!

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[cob427sc]

Love the color and with the gold stripe should be impressive!

[wallace18]

Hood gaps done!

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[wallace18]

Roof is ready for primer. We are hoping to but whole car in primer in next week or so.

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[mjg1951g]

The very first FFR kit I ever built was a Gen-1 33.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8759-Wallace18-s-33-build

Marsha, my wife was never happy that I sold that car. Well as luck would have it I am getting a Gen-1 33 kit partially done tomorrow. It has a 347 Blueprint engine/trans package. I was fortunate to get this at a very good price. I really wanted to build one of the new Speedstars, but I could not pass up this deal. I will post photos and details tomorrow. Marsha, my wife gets to pick out the color and interior color. We will do a semi-custom interior on this one vs the standard one I usually do. I am looking forward to this as a way of getting out of the dog house somewhat, LOL. :cool:

this sounds familiar. My buddy, Tim Whittaker, sent me an ad where a guy was selling a gen 1 stage 1 kit for $5k. Frame was powder coated and it was assembled as a roller.
Like you, I couldn't pass it up. Had it shipped from Florida to Oklahoma. Last year I drove out to AZ to buy some fenders, hard top, windows, running boards etc. from Dan Ruth. While there he talked me into a 95 mkviii engine and trans. (so we yanked that out of the car in 100+ degrees that day) I've been redoing my garage before ordering the stage 2 which is getting close. I'm still trying to figure out how FFR has decided to fit the gen 2 body on the gen 1 chassis. Anyway just wanted to say you're not alone. I may be in a little bit more of a hurry than you cause i'm 69. Then again, at this age it seems everything takes longer...Best of luck to you. I may also have some parts for sale if you're interested.

[wallace18]

Chris, Curtis and I took the body off of the chassis yesterday. All in the booth now for primer this week. I have been wiring this 1970 Mach 1 for Chris as part of the paint deal on Marsha's 33.

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[wallace18]

Primer is on!

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[Robodent]

Nice to see progress again. Won’t be long now and be done just in time for Christmas

[wallace18]

Finally got back the interior today. Marsha and I are very happy how it came out. Color paint should be done next month. Covid really has put a time lag on everything for sure.

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[peterh226]

Finally got back the interior today. Marsha and I are very happy how it came out. Color paint should be done next month. Covid really has put a time lag on everything for sure.

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How do the seats fit? There is so little room I’m trying to figure out options. I really want a high back seat. The kirkeys are ok but don’t really fit the rest of the style. And entry/exit is a bit tight.

[wallace18]

See post #75. They fit great. My wife wanted headrests and adjustable lumbar. These were the only one I found that fit well in the gen-1 chassis. We had them redone to a custom look we wanted with the interior. They are not cheap but meet our needs.

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[peterh226]

Which model seat did you decide on? Do you have a part number? I think these look like a good solution.

[wallace18]

Which model seat did you decide on? Do you have a part number? I think these look like a good solution.

these are the ones. I added lumbar and used their seat brackets as well.

https://www.prpseats.com/product/roadster-adj-headrest/

[wallace18]

137602


Got chassis back while body is being painted. I installed X-Mat. Carpet and console is next. Paint should be done by 1st week of Dec.

[wallace18]

Carpet, e-brk cover and speakers installed.

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[wallace18]

Had all body parts finished in final primer coat. Waited 2 weeks to cure and the roof sagged on the top center. Had to do a repair with fiberglass mat after heat lamp to get roof back to correct shape. Hope to do color in a week. Good thing we are not in a rush, LOL.

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[FF33rod]

IMO there is a flat spot or even possible sag in the roof as it comes from FFR, requires more than just block sand that's for sure. I'm leaving it for my body guy in Feb...

[wallace18]

33 finally in paint booth! Hope to have color clear on by this week. Here is primer then sealer coat before root-beer color goes on.

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[narly1]

IMO there is a flat spot or even possible sag in the roof...

Just another reason to go with the soft top option LOL.

[wallace18]

Just out of the booth! Next week will get wet sand and buff. Then put back on chassis after that. Color is awesome. Changes depending on light source.

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[FF33rod]

Looks excellent!

[Robodent]

Looking good Your almost done

[wallace18]

Roof and trunk lid are now wet sanded and buffed out. Color really changes in the sun. Can't wait to get it all on the chassis. Maybe in 2-3 weeks.

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[FF33rod]

Looks fantastic! Definitely love the colour shift with the sun. Marsha's going to love driving that! Heck, who wouldn't!!

[wallace18]

We put the body back on the chassis today as well as the doors and hood. Installed the defrost vents, A/C vents, tail lights and lower front trim part below grill. Roof is at glass shop having front and rear windows installed.

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[wallace18]

We are about 85% done now. Still waiting on roof from glass shop. Once we get that we can totally finish it up. Here is some photos.

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[peterh226]

What are you using for seat belts? Is the mount to the roll bar custom or did you find it somewhere?

[wallace18]

It is the 3 belt option from Factory Five. It comes with everything you need. Yes it does attach to the roll bar.

[peterh226]

It is the 3 belt option from Factory Five. It comes with everything you need. Yes it does attach to the roll bar.
Must be a new option. Time for a phone call! Looks like one of the secret options. Not listed anywhere. Thanks

[wallace18]

Got the roof on today. Coming along very nice, IMO.

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[FF33rod]

Heck yeah!

[Tampa33Build]

Looks great, love the white stripe

[HotrodMike]

Looks great, love the color combination and the stripe!!

[wallace18]

Finally had time to work on the 33. It is mostly done now. I spent time sealing up cockpit and installed remaining interior items. I finished up trunk. Now I need to insure it and get a tag.

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[Robodent]

Nice job !!! Good luck getting a tag. Hope it goes smoothly for you.
Rob

[e36m3]

Car looks great. I like the machine turned sill. Did you clear coat those? The center consule looks great. I took your advice on the consule and picked one up too.

[FF33rod]

Looks fantastic Tom, timely too as I'm just looking at some door designs for mine :)

Steve

[wallace18]

Car looks great. I like the machine turned sill. Did you clear coat those? The center consule looks great. I took your advice on the consule and picked one up too.

No clear coat. Just engine turned.

[1965daytona]

Hola Tom,
What a Beauty! I am sure your wife is happy.
Herb

[Tampa33Build]

Tom,

Another great build!

Good luck registering

[wallace18]

Got the 33 tagged and insured today. I took it for a 30+ mile first trip. Ran perfect! Very fast. The 4R70W transmission from Blueprint takes a little getting used to. High stall is different for me. It locks up and turns 1550 at 60 MPH. That is with the Moser 3:55 rear end. When I got home the engine started to run rich. The o2 sensor crapped out. My 35 did this early on also. In the 35 I replaced it and now with a couple thousand miles no issues. I ordered a new one to get here in the morning. Hope that is the only issue. We have a cruz-in and Fly-in on Saturday.

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[FF33rod]

Looks awesome Tom, great work!
Now let Marsha drive it!!! ;)

Steve

[Brastic]

Now I fully get why the arm rest are where they are. Mine are in the center and totally useless. I have to admit one big plus for the Cobra vs the Hot Rot is in the Cobra, you can rest your arm on the door comfortably.

[wallace18]

New O2 sensor did the trick. Drove it 100 trouble free miles. Doing so fine tuning before I had it to Marsha, LOL.

[wallace18]

Here is an update on Marsha's 33. Marsha finally drove the car a month or so back. She was scared of the loud exhaust and the gas pedal was not in a good spot for her. I decided to put the car on the lift and attack these problems she and I had.

1. Loud exhaust. I removed all the FFR exhaust from the down pipes back. I had Tony at Gator muffler install a new exhaust using baffled Turbo mufflers and the original tips. Wow what a difference. Still sounds great but you can hear the radio great and converse going down the road cruising. Still lets you know it has 430HP when you step on it and the sound is very pleasing.

2. I moved the gas pedal about 1.5" higher. This makes it so much easier for Marsha as well as myself. I located it too low at first. Easy to do without sound deadening and carpet.

3. The 33 ran 20-30 degrees hotter than my 35. Both have 347 Blueprint motors. I eliminated the lines to the radiator for the transmission and installed 2 heat sinks and a tube cooler under the trunk. I also have a 12V fan blowing on them when the car is running. I also removed the 190 T-Stat. and replaced it with a 160. Now the car runs 20 degree cooler even in 95 degree heat with A/C on.

4. Replace transmission oil pan with B&M aluminum unit. The stock pan gasket leaked from day one. The new pan added 3 quarts to capacity as well.


Now this is a car both of us enjoy driving so much more. I bought this kit as it was ordered by the original buyer. I should have made these changes during the build. Lesson learned.

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[wallace18]

While I am waiting on parts for my 818C, I put the 33 back on the lift and installed DEI Exhaust Wrap, Muffler Shield Kit and coated wrap with DEI Hi-Temp Silicone spray. . This should keep the floor and other components cooler under the car.

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[peterh226]

Can you be more specific about the mufflers? Brand or part number? Did you go larger?

[WIS89]

Tom-

Another first-class build!! I love the color, as well as the custom bits you did throughout.

I bet Marsha is very happy, and she should be; you did great!

So, how do you decide who gets to drive?

Enjoy the heck out of it!

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Can you be more specific about the mufflers? Brand or part number? Did you go larger?

Don't know the brand of muffler. The muffler shop used what he stocks. Like I did on my 35 HR P/U we used 2" pipe to clear frame better. Size of muffler is exactly same as FFR muffler just better baffles.

[wallace18]

Tom-

Another first-class build!! I love the color, as well as the custom bits you did throughout.

I bet Marsha is very happy, and she should be; you did great!

So, how do you decide who gets to drive?

Enjoy the heck out of it!

Regards,

Steve


I have been driving it mostly. She is still a bit scared of it. Hopefully when the weather gets cooler and we have a local show to go to I will get her to drive it, LOL.:cool:

[wallace18]

Went to Trunk or Treat at our new Church home, First Baptist Cheifland. Everyone loved the 33. I let some kids sit in it and beep the Ah-oo-gah horn to their delight.

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[wallace18]

I was able to knock out a couple of nagging issues with the 33 this last 2 weeks. 1st, I had a knocking noise going over harsh bumps on the passenger side. It turns out it was the body hitting the 45 degree part of the frame in the front area of the rear wheel well. A 1/4" rubber piece solved the noise. I did it to the drivers side also. So much quieter on the road now. Also as most builders I was not really happy with the window seals in the top of the doors. I was looking around my weather strip box and found the seals I used on my 1st 33 windows. A rubber type seal for the outside and a felt on for the inside. A look back at my build thread and I mostly did the same to Marsha's car. No more window rattle and much better sealing all around. Going to a car show on Saturday. Should be fun.

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[wallace18]

We took Marsha's 33 to a car show in Live Oak, FL. today. She won 1st place for Best Hot Rod. First car show for it. She was very happy. Drove 150 miles on 1/2 tank of fuel. Not bad for a 347/Automatic. :cool:

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[wallace18]

As I stated before I bought this kit from a fellow who gave up on it. I was never happy with the engine air cleaner, valve covers or ignition wire covers. Just not my cup of tea so to speak. Also the CCP master cylinder had chrome flacking off of the removable top. And the other day one of the plug wires came off #4 cylinder and melted to the header. So I am replacing most of this and fixing the CCP top by remove the chrome and paint it black. I am using Summit ceramic end plug wires with boots. See the before and after photos. Marsha and I are very pleased with the outcome.

Before.
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After.

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[RoadRacer]

We took Marsha's 33 to a car show in Live Oak, FL. today. She won 1st place for Best Hot Rod. First car show for it. She was very happy. Drove 150 miles on 1/2 tank of fuel. Not bad for a 347/Automatic. :cool:

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Wait, what? Are you really getting ~300miles from a tank? Dang

[J R Jones]

I would consider a part for my car emblazoned with "their" name or logo, for about 0.5 seconds, if they gave it to me. Then I would decline the offer and find a plane unmarked part.
jim

[wallace18]

Wait, what? Are you really getting ~300miles from a tank? Dang

I doubt that. Most likely the gauge is not super accurate. It now shows a 1/4 tank and took 9 gallons to fill it up. I am getting about 20 MPG on highway cruising. 14 around town.

[wallace18]

Here is some new photos as well as a picture of 33 and 35 together.

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[cob427sc]

Wow. If I'm getting 12 on hi-test I'd be happy! (364 Buick, 3-2 barrels).

[narly1]

Liking and getting some inspiration from your idea of having the hood vents and side paint stripes match each other shape-wise on the 33!

Earl

[wallace18]

Liking and getting some inspiration from your idea of having the hood vents and side paint stripes match each other shape-wise on the 33!

Earl

Marsha and my painter, Chris got the idea. IMO it came out really nice. Thanks.

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[wallace18]

Sold this car to a really nice young man in Scottsdale, AZ. Hope he enjoys it as much as we did. I only have to take it to his uncle in Conroe, TX . He will take it back to AZ from there. Now I can concentrate on the 818C, LOL.

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