Suggestions - Engine Re-install

[jwebb]

Had to remove the engine for a oil related problem (ugly story), left transmission installed. Now that the engine is ready to go back in, should I remove the tranny, hookup to the engine and install together or try to marry the engine to the tranny while it's still in the car? Fully assembled & painted car. Help!

[Railroad]

I think you will have less frustration, by removing the trans, re install on engine.

[Avalanche325]

I am sure you will get opinions both ways. I would have pulled them together. But since the transmission is still in, I would try it.

Just be ready for a jiggle-fest trying to get them mated up. You probably already know, but here are my helpful hints either way you go:

1. Use a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch centered.
2. For that last 3/4" that always is a bear. Never use bolts to pull it in.
3. For that last 3/4", use a clamp on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch, and it will pop in. I fought mine for 15 minutes last time and then disengaged the clutch and it slid right in.

[GoDadGo]

I wouldn't have the courage to attempt that task.
When I had to do it, I pulled them both.

Drive Line Pulled:
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

Drive Line Replaced:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

If it was an automatic, I'd be okay with leaving the transmission in.
For what it is worth, Avalanche is much braver that this wrench swinging banker.

[cv2065]

I'd pull the trans and install at the same time. I think the time you'll spend on your back, frustration and time wasted, you could have done it the other way...Unless of course you get lucky and it goes right in..:)

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Anyone try using alignment studs for the transmission to bellhousing mating? Used to do that all the time on my Corvette went in very easy.

[Avalanche325]

Avalanche is much braver that this wrench swinging banker.

Well the OP is too far away to ask me to come over to help! So I figured I'm safe.

I should had said, try it for 30 - 45 min tops. Sometimes with the clamp on the clutch fork (after it is almost all the way in) they pop into place. Haven't done it in an FFR myself, but I have done it in other cars. I have only removed and installed together in the FFR. Sooooo.... I should have either stated that, or kept my mouth shut.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

For what it is worth, Avalanche is much braver that this wrench swinging banker.

Working on it from the otherside a clutch replacement this retired banker & ex tracked vehicle recovery mechanic will try to loosen & slightly move the engine forward, tilt it down then slide the transmission out from underneath.

If Plan A does not work will go to Plan B & pull the whole thing out & be unhappy Plan A did not work out.:)

Am also hoping to swap my coolant & oil sensors out so I can finally get the new instruments into the dash.

[frankb]

Personally, I like to leave the tranny in place and install the engine. Not tough if the clutch plate is aligned properly (use the alignment tool). Be sure the centerlines of the engine and tranny are on the same plane and it will slide together without any issue, other than a wiggle or two! ;)

[CraigS]

If you have an engine levelor, I'd put the engine back in as is. If not, pull the trans. Two things are critical for them to mate. Engine must be parallel to the trans and the splines must engage. I use a floor jack under the trans to raise the front a bit and adjust it's angle. The levelor lets you adjust the engine angle a degree at a time. I get it all aligned, move the hoist a little to put a bit of rearward pressure on the engine, then turn the crank w/ a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt. With it in gear and park brake on, the trans doesn't rotate so rotating the crank brings the splines into alignment. I also really like the alignment bolts technique.

[wallace18]

I have done it both ways without any problems. I do use alignment studs when trans is in car.

[wallace18]

I have done it both ways without any problems. I do use alignment studs when trans is in car.