View Full Version : radiator alignment
butch
11-13-2019, 06:05 PM
Book says 5/8 off-center? any reason why not centered?
edwardb
11-13-2019, 06:16 PM
That's a leftover from the donor radiator days. If you have a new kit supplied radiator, it can be centered.
Fixit
11-13-2019, 07:14 PM
I didn't know about the "hold-out from donor days" and installed mine with the offset (Coyote power) in #9365. Having it offset actually helped with needed clearance for the drain petcock, so consider it...
edwardb
11-13-2019, 08:31 PM
I didn't know about the "hold-out from donor days" and installed mine with the offset (Coyote power) in #9365. Having it offset actually helped with needed clearance for the drain petcock, so consider it...
It's true. Been repeated lots of times in multiple posts plus my own experience. But I agree, mount it where it make sense. Check all the clearances and hookups.
Jeff Kleiner
11-13-2019, 08:38 PM
Position it so that you can get the upper hose clamped on and let it fall where it may whether that is center or offset.
Jeff
tbl100
11-13-2019, 10:20 PM
I just installed my radiator and I offset it the 5/8" because I wanted the side aluminum pieces to fit properly as designed. I wold have rather had it centered (just because i like symmetry) For those who center theirs what do you do about the side pieces?
-Tim
BEAR-AvHistory
11-14-2019, 12:15 AM
Radiator looks a bit funny with the offset but you need it for clearance. You can hide the whole thing behind a Nomex honeycomb that will also protect the radiator from stones.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/580x435/80-tribar_8e2e583a84d3def027e4749dca2f79c5344e321d.jp g
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=14336&pictureid=56290
phileas_fogg
11-14-2019, 11:47 AM
I just installed my radiator and I offset it the 5/8" because I wanted the side aluminum pieces to fit properly as designed. I wold have rather had it centered (just because i like symmetry) For those who center theirs what do you do about the side pieces?
-Tim
I had absolutely no luck getting the F5-provided aluminum pieces to fit. With the curve of the aluminum side pieces placed to match the contour of the body, I had a 1”+ gap at the bottom of each side piece. Also, the bottom piece was too long to fit between the outriggers (easy enough to trim) and also too wide to fit between the bottom of the radiator and the lip of the body opening. So I ordered the Mike Everson piece (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster%20aluminum%20panel%20page.htm).
John
BEAR-AvHistory
11-14-2019, 03:58 PM
I had absolutely no luck getting the F5-provided aluminum pieces to fit. With the curve of the aluminum side pieces placed to match the contour of the body, I had a 1”+ gap at the bottom of each side piece. Also, the bottom piece was too long to fit between the outriggers (easy enough to trim) and also too wide to fit between the bottom of the radiator and the lip of the body opening. So I ordered the Mike Everson piece (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster%20aluminum%20panel%20page.htm).
John
+1 on Mikes part. Never even considered using the FFR pieces. Wanted a smooth no seam duct.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105223&d=1554744288
EDIT: Forgot to post. The two pieces seal against the body forcing 100% of the incoming air through the radiator. Don't recommend it but have never installed the fan shroud I got after the car was finished. Car has been through 4 Carolina summers as a daily driver & the water temp has never gone over 210*F stopped in traffic. Normal running temp is 180*F with the factory thermostat.
j.miller
11-14-2019, 07:02 PM
Before you do all this take a big hammer and knock your driver side frame horn towards the passenger side a .5 inch....knock the pass side outboard 1/4 to .5. It's where they need to be,,,da bat
tbl100
11-14-2019, 07:38 PM
I had absolutely no luck getting the F5-provided aluminum pieces to fit. With the curve of the aluminum side pieces placed to match the contour of the body, I had a 1”+ gap at the bottom of each side piece. Also, the bottom piece was too long to fit between the outriggers (easy enough to trim) and also too wide to fit between the bottom of the radiator and the lip of the body opening. So I ordered the Mike Everson piece (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster%20aluminum%20panel%20page.htm).
John
Thanks John. I placed the side pieces in where I think they belong and noticed a big gap between the pieces and the radiator but was not going to pass judgement until I had the body on and could see how it all came together. Now I'm not as confident. If I end up not using the F5 parts and go with something like the Mike Everson piece I'll go back and center the radiator if it doesn't cause any problems.
I'd sure like to use some of the parts I got with my complete kit, LOL. I've upgraded a lot of stuff already.
Thanks,
Tim
Avalanche325
11-15-2019, 10:43 AM
Before you do all this take a big hammer and knock your driver side frame horn towards the passenger side a .5 inch....knock the pass side outboard 1/4 to .5. It's where they need to be,,,da bat
Paint fumes and a BFH and Jeff can fix anything!
The side radiator AL pieces on mine weren't even close. I made some new ones. I agree, mount the radiator based on everything clearing with centered as possible being second.