Any painters recommend a gun?

[Svtfreak]

I’ve painted before, never serious or whole car. Always just used what someone gave me. Good friend owns a body shop and said I can come learn some from his painter.

Anyway, can any of you guys with some paint experience recommend a paint gun that would work well? Planning on painting metallic yellow base/clear. I know how to do it, just gotta practice some. But need a gun before and I know zilch about them.

Thanks y’all.

[JimLev]

About 6 years ago I bought this one along with the DeKups.
https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-auto-paint-and-priming-system.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPpIUDkf6SVFEms2gBBqhs9-4--36K7Dmo9rcYKPnLk4M9sSzP453I8aAtWsEALw_wcB

I've used it for painting bumpers, fenders, etc.
Haven't had any problems with it. You can spend $4-500+ for a single gun...Sata, Iwata, etc.
DeVilbiss also has a ********** set of guns for not much more than I paid for the Starting line.

[KenWilkinson]

Is Harbor freight even a possibility? I'm thinking of painting myself, but this would be a one time deal.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've been using a Devilbiss Tekna Prolite for several years. I know my friend Miller loves his Satas. When I was ready to make a change my jobber loaned me his personal Sata (4000 I think) and Tekna to try out one weekend. I did some test panels and as far as performance I didn't really find a nickles worth of difference after adjusting them in. Because of this I went for the Devilbiss since it was a couple hundred less expensive than the Sata. I bought it cupless and fitted it with the 3M PPS disposable cup system.

https://www.eastwood.com/tekna-prolite-paint-gun-1-2-1-3-1-4-no-cup.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPoxdtWONDNgV5L3Rxgo324rO2o3Ki2S4Mt Lo5kavzwk1qI3TJe6ZmIaApeDEALw_wcB

I'm happy with how it lays down color and clear; here's a recent one straight from the gun prior to cut and buff:

https://scontent.fewr1-5.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p180x540/72477250_2362536407202387_4252198668796428288_o.jp g?_nc_cat=105&_nc_oc=AQllmJalnmPjkooT1DXCCVhQ75mVirKCVLoIdrHXvZf MQgSpinJfFtAbb-6Rgwj3tXE&_nc_ht=scontent.fewr1-5.fna&oh=583828d2cbede110181e50c8f7d1eb9d&oe=5E55D7D5

At the risk of sounding like a wise guy remember that no gun can substitute for practice and experience but a good one can help you make the most of what you've got :)

Good luck,
Jeff

[Olli]

When choosing a gun you can't forget to look at what the air consumption is. With HVLP you can easily exceed what the average DIY 110volt home compressor can produce. For example the gun that Jeff linked to is a very nice gun, its air consumption can range from 7 cfm to 12 cfm depending on which fluid tip and air cap is being used

I personally have 7 SATAs and 3 or 4 Sharpes. The SATA 5000s that I have will consume 10.2 cfm. My Ingersoll Rand 220Volt 5hp 60gal 2 stage will produce 14.X cfm @ 90 psi
The harder the compressor works the more heat and moisture. Oil carryover as well. Should we get into air filtration and dessicants? I have this one; https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sharpe-dryaire-desiccant-dryer-6760-p-11929.aspx

My next compressor will be 7.5HP 80 gal 2 stage 36cfm @ 90 psi

Eastwood has a gun series that consumes very low cfms. No it isn't SATA or DeVilbiss but it is most likely fine.
https://www.eastwood.com/concours-pro-hvlp-paint-gun-1-3mm.html

Make an informed choice.

Olli

[McGuyver]

I am just a wannabe painter at this point. Like Olli mentioned, most of us would need to upgrade our air compressor and filtration systems. I don’t have any experience with it but I am looking at the Fuji Mini-mite 4 system.

[Svtfreak]

Thanks for the tips, guys. I was looking at the same double gun from Eastwood. Mr Jeff, I really like that one also. Wouldn’t mind spending the money if I knew I could do it myself with that one lol! I may get the devilbliss and practice a bit to see what I can do before spending the money on one to do the actual final paint.

As far as compressor, i should be good. Mine is a 220v single stage rated at 13.4 cfm @ 40 psi and 11.5 cfm @ 90 psi. Close on the top end on some guns. And yes, I’m familiar with filtration and water removal and also working on that. That’s easier for me though lol. I used my compressor and filter to spray the primer on my mk4 with a 10$ harbor freight gun and all was just fine.

[Svtfreak]

Is Harbor freight even a possibility? I'm thinking of painting myself, but this would be a one time deal.

A guy I work with, who taught me what little I know, says that’s all he uses. He still does it on the side. But he says “I’m just that good, I can spray anything with them”. He’s a little sure of himself (but he is good lol).

[progmgr1]

I heard the same thing from Dan Ruth. He said that the Chinese knock-offs at HF were just as good as the name brand guns you can buy on eBay. The only problem I can see is that they don't seem to offer a variety of tip sizes. Keith

[TNcoupe]

I am just a wannabe painter at this point. Like Olli mentioned, most of us would need to upgrade our air compressor and filtration systems. I don’t have any experience with it but I am looking at the Fuji Mini-mite 4 system.

I have the Fuji Mini Mite 4 system. Good compressor and gun but you have to have the paint reduced to a spot on viscosity. It shoots paint and clear nicely once reduced but I still shoot epoxy and high build primer with my Eastwood Concourse gun cause its easier to clean and its easier to shoot the thick products with a 1.7 or 2.1 tip. I shot base clear on my dad's 64 Fairlane with it and single stage white on a 1971 Mercedes 280SL with it. The single stage shot really well reduced 10%. The biggest thing you gotta watch is heat with the turbine compressor. Most of the time you need to shoot a medium or slow activator with the paint cause the turbine compressor makes so much heat. I pack ice packs around mine when I shoot.

[AJT '33]

I've used the 3M PPS Accuspray System (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/paint-preparation-system/), its inexpensive in all means as I will be only doing a car or truck every couple years. Since everything is throw away it makes cleanup real easy and efficient. I got the base kit then bought replacement tips and cups (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Accuspray-ONE-Spray-Gun-System-with-Standard-PPS-/?N=5002385+8709313+8711441+8743632+3291246037&preselect=8716717+8719367&rt=rud), cant complain as the same cup system can be used on the high end spray guns as well by simply buying the correct adapter for the gun.
117229 Trunk lid after 3 coats of HOK clear
117230 Grill perimeter after 3 coats of HOK clear