Who's doing their own bodywork???

[skullandbones]

I'm approaching the dreaded phase in the build that, I think, most builders subcontract. But like many other things, I could be wrong. I am interested in your story with pics or links to your experiences with the job. I am really talking about non professional builders since we know you're good. I think this is doable as a DIY. I have already ground down the seams with a tiny die grinder for the most part. To tell you the truth, I'm more worried about getting the wheel well, door, trunck, and hood edges right and consistent than the actual body filler and blocking part. What do you think? Thanks, WEK.


Note: I am so amped, I may not be able to wait for body work before putting the body on and driving the thing! I'll try.

[LuckyWinner]

Im also looking at doing my own bodywork. Everyone has told me to drive it around for a couple of months before you start. Something about the body needing to cure in the sunlight and something else about gasses releasing that could mess up the paint. Im sure there will be someone who will let you know what Im talking about. Basicly they say to drive it around in the jellcoat for awhile before starting.

[skullandbones]

I know. I remember having that conversation, Lucky. However, that was curing of the gelcoat and glass before the body work. Mine has had ample time to cure in the AZ environment for longer than I would like to admit (especially, since I ground down the seams). I am speaking of the actual body work and fitting. Good luck, WEK.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I did my Mk3 but aside from some photos did not really document it, however I did keep a forum thread going detailing the process on the Mk4 I just completed:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/266792-mk4-bodywork-thread.html

Scott Meyer did a great job documenting the body prep and paint for his Mk3:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/230701-started-body-work-6583-a.html

Whether Mk3 or Mk4 the basics are the same as long as the mold parting lines are not contaminated with gelcoat. If that's the case get back with us here and we'll coach you through it. One important thing I'll add; you mentioned that you have started knocking down the parting lines (seams)---if you haven't done so already clean the body to remove all mold release wax before going any farther. The method is discussed in my thread and probably Scott's as well.

Good luck,
Jeff

[Rootbeer Roadster]

I'm approaching the dreaded phase in the build that, I think, most builders subcontract. But like many other things, I could be wrong. I am interested in your story with pics or links to your experiences with the job. I am really talking about non professional builders since we know you're good. I think this is doable as a DIY. I have already ground down the seams with a tiny die grinder for the most part. To tell you the truth, I'm more worried about getting the wheel well, door, trunck, and hood edges right and consistent than the actual body filler and blocking part. What do you think? Thanks,
WEK.


Note: I am so amped, I may not be able to wait for body work before putting the body on and driving the thing! I'll try.

Getting everything to fit with proper gaps is a huge part of the finished prduct. My painter blew this part of the job. I've had to regap almost everything after it was painted. I recommend installing everything and making sure it all fits correctly before starting the body work. Driving for a few months will help identify any of the gaps you may have not done correctly.

Jeff

BTW If I can fix gaps on a painted body anyone can do it in gel coat. Take your time and it will come out fine.

[DARKPT]

Make sure you read all of STL-Scott's posts on body work over on the other forum.

I am in the Slicksand phase of bodywork on my coupe, and I put a pretty good blog out each week on our work. Bodywork started May 22nd of this year: www.bamacoupe.blogspot.com

[3kcarbon]

I drove mine in Gelcoat for 300 miles over several weeks. You have to do some of the body work installed on the car anyway to check the for alignment and proper fit. My door and fender were the worst fit on the car. The trunk was second. THe FFR marked cutouts for the side vents and windshield were waaaay off. Body work is not the most fun part of the build but it is probably the best way to save big money. Body shops fall into two catagories. They know what a FFR is and know what to do and will charge you for it or second they don't know what they are getting into and are probably going to price it high enough to cover their learning curve. Either way its more money than most of paid for the motor and drivetrain. Its the best way to save money if you can do the work. Auotmotive paint is wacky high priced to the point most people think you are joking about the price. Ooo its true but not as bad as it can be if you waste materials. I've seen post where guys claim to have spent 3K on materials. While it might be true you don't want to do that! The car just isn't that big to need all that. Not to say the leaning curve and waste don't work against you.

[Gumball]

I'm going to tackle mine after following the recommendation to drive it in gel coat for a while - not for curing purposes but rather to make sure everything fits and works before taking the next step of making it look pretty. I'm also going to use that time to get it inspected, titled, and licensed - nothing in the motor vehicle regs about having it painted.

[skullandbones]

I like that plan. I think I will mount the body and all the parts for fit and drive a while. I think doing the basic body work on the car is probably OK. That way you can move it in and out of the garage to keep the dusty work outside. I did my grinding of the seams outside and blew it off before going back into the garage.

I spent quite a bit of time going over the threads from the other forum. Sorry I didn't check that first. Just didn't expect so much to be out there. Thanks for spoon feeding me. There is so much info to take in on Scott and Jeff's threads. Great work! It's nice to have people point out trouble spots that can show up on your build but with the body work, it may or may not be exactly like that. But it's still nice to anticipate issues.

Well, I think this will be a great looking 50/50 car even with no paint. You know, 50 ft away and going 50 mph. I think they look bad a** in just about any condition.

Thanks a lot you guys! WEK

[CapeCoralCobra]

... The FFR marked cutouts for the side vents and windshield were waaaay off...

Luckily, just before doing my bodywork, I read a post - other forum - about a member fitting his windshield, but not the post base plates, before paint. Turns out, after paint, the base plates didn't cover the holes F5 had cut. Not sure what he did to correct the problem. Reading this, I installed every piece of hardware while still in gelcoat and sure enough, one windshield cutout was way off, the roll bar holes were a little off, and the the side exhaust cutouts were different/not large enough. Easily fixed in gelcoat, not so much after paint.

[Matt Ries]

If I do a 2nd car I would would try things a little different. I. would start with building the car to a roller with the wheel, tire suspension only. Set ride height and alignment. Mount body, all trim, set gaps on doors hood, deck lid, level all panels, finish the rough areas, mount seats and bare dash. Then remove body, all trim, send out body for finish work and paint. Clean the chasis and build to gocart while body is at the painters.
I built mine to gocart just like most, drove it some. Then mounted body and did all the rough dirty work, mounting trim, windsheild, gapping stuff, grinding stuff, driving it all summer..... But now the car is a mess every nook and cranny has fiberglass in it. Plus It,s driveable I want to drive the dang thing, but I have body work to do...If I did it the other way the finished body would be waiting on me to get the gocart done, then mont the body and injoy. Wadya think?

[3kcarbon]

I'm going to tackle mine after following the recommendation to drive it in gel coat for a while - not for curing purposes but rather to make sure everything fits and works before taking the next step of making it look pretty. I'm also going to use that time to get it inspected, titled, and licensed - nothing in the motor vehicle regs about having it painted.
That is egggactly what I did.

[3kcarbon]

[QUOTE=CapeCoralCobra;32322]Luckily, just before doing my bodywork, I read a post - other forum - about a member fitting his windshield, but not the post base plates, before paint. Turns out, after paint, the base plates didn't cover the holes F5 had cut. Not sure what he did to correct the problem. Reading this, I installed every piece of hardware while still in gelcoat and sure enough, one windshield cutout was way off, the roll bar holes were a little off, and the the side exhaust cutouts were different/not large enough. Easily fixed in gelcoat, not so much after paint.[/QUOTE

I glassed in the oversized holes when the body came back off for paint. I even flipped it over to do the bedliner after the repair.

[edwardb]

I did as much work as I could myself, but stopped short with any filler, sealers, color, clear, etc. Left that to a pro. These are the things I did myself: Completely cleaned and scoured the raw body and panels to remove all mold release, grease, etc.; trimmed and sanded all around the edges, wheel wheels, door, hood, trunk, and cockpit openings; ground down the parting lines (seams) and fortunately didn't have to grind out or fill mine; mounted the cleaned up body to the chassis, adjusting mounting holes, windshield holes, front quick-jack holes, roll-bar holes, and exhaust cut-outs; fitted and installed windshield and wheel well splash guards; fitted and installed hood, doors, and trunk lids; and tried to get all hinges and latches into their final positions.

At this point, I did have some repair to do, including filling around the front quick jack openings, windshield cutouts, and roll bar openings. Used HSRF and glass matt on the back side of the body. I also filled the inside the wheel well lips with HSRF, providing a foundation for the rolled wheel well lip. Finally, there were a couple of repairs I had to make on the front parting lines by the wheel wells, around the trunk lid opening, and around the side louver openings. Here I again used HSRF and glass matt with vinylester resin.

At this point, the car was driveable. But since untitled and unlicensed, I couldn't drive too much. But did tool around my neighborhood several times to make sure all was OK. Then delivered to my painter. He was very satisfied with the work I did, and was able to focus on filling and painting. He said I saved at least several days work. I think probably more, plus I had the satisfaction of doing it myself and knowing it was exactly right before any painting was started. I've read too may threads about guys finding adjustment issues after their paint was done. Really not nice, and should not happen in my opinion. While the paint job was not cheap, it was very competitive compared to the quality, in my opinion, and helped very much with my sweat equity.

This is what my Mk3 looked like before taking to the painter on Memorial day:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Body%20Installation/th_IMG_1418.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Body%20Installation/?action=view&current=IMG_1418.jpg)
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Body%20Installation/th_IMG_1419.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Body%20Installation/?action=view&current=IMG_1419.jpg)
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Body%20Installation/th_IMG_1421.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Body%20Installation/?action=view&current=IMG_1421.jpg)

This is what it looked like last weekend back from the painter. Hopefully will be wrapping it up in the next few weeks.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/th_IMG_1489.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/?action=view&current=IMG_1489.jpg)
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/th_IMG_1488.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/?action=view&current=IMG_1488.jpg)
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/th_IMG_1491.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/?action=view&current=IMG_1491.jpg)

[skullandbones]

Edwardb,
Looks like your sweat equity really did pay off especially on the hood and trunk fitment. It looks great! Did you also do the "rolling of the edges" after the fiberglasing or did the painter? Also, did you do some or all of the fitment for hood, doors, and trunk (the final fit)? Did you have to remove much from the edges? I am concerned with this aspect of the project. Thanks, WEK.

[riptide motorsport]

the panel gaps and fit is not that dificult, take your time and they'll fit up quite nicely............HTH Steven

[Rootbeer Roadster]

Edwardb
I wish I had done mine like you did yours. You did the first and very important steps that made sure eveything fit correctly. My painter did a poor job of this. I've had a sander or file on every body opening after it was painted. I also had to make oversized bezels for the roll bars and windshield posts. If I had a do over I would do all the fitment myself and have the painter do paint work only.

BTW your car looks great.

Jeff

[skullandbones]

That's wild, Rootbeer! No one would think you had any problems with that jewel by looking at it now. You made a great recovery.

I agree. I think, Edwardb did it right because of the multiple potential fitment issues. I'm moving the body outside the garage to give me more room to work on the chassis and start working on the body work outside. Arizona temps are just starting to come down so I should have five or six hrs of shade on the west side of the garage. I think I have a pretty good working plan now. Thanks for your project experiences. Just goes to show there are many ways to get to the same goal.

[edwardb]

Edwardb, Looks like your sweat equity really did pay off especially on the hood and trunk fitment. It looks great! Did you also do the "rolling of the edges" after the fiberglasing or did the painter? Also, did you do some or all of the fitment for hood, doors, and trunk (the final fit)? Did you have to remove much from the edges? I am concerned with this aspect of the project. Thanks, WEK.

Yes to all your questions. I tried to get all the gaps as close as I could (about 3/16 inch) and rounded all the edges of the hood, trunk lid, doors, and also all the openings. My goal was that my painter could confirm everything was OK, and go directly to filling and painting. He slightly adjusted a couple things (he's very picky, a good thing) but was OK with everything I did. The hood, trunk lid and doors are delivered intentionally oversize. Don't let the trimming scare you. Just take it slow and easy. I trimmed and checked repeatedly. I would scribe lines, sand, check, scribe, sand again, check, etc. Make absolutely sure to use bumpers or some type of spacers to hold the hood and trunk lid to the top of the body opening. There is some draft angle in the openings, and if you fit them to the bottom you will have removed too much material. This was my first time doing anything like this. I mainly used a belt sander and palm orbit sander.

[skullandbones]

They do mention the gap and the fact that the peices are oversize in the manual but I like the scribing steps instead of leaving it to your eye alone. It's so easy to over do it with a sander if you don't have strict guidelines. I also appreciate the tip about the trunk. That could be an easy mistake to make. I noticed that something is going on there. I thought about putting a peice of temporary weather striping that is the right depth (because it seemed to be high at one point and low in other places). I guess that would suffice for that part of the job. Well, I admit I have been a little worried but now I feel much better about tackling the job. I'll keep you guys posted when I have made enough progress to be worth while. Thanks again! WEK.

[dallas_]

I did my own bodywork and will be painting in the next few weeks.

It is certainly doable. Just take your time and don't rush it, that's when problems start.

We waited until the bodywork was almost complete before ordering the engine. The thinking was that once the engine was in we would be in a hurry to get it done and we wanted to take our time on the bodywork.

Once we started we decided to do some modifications. That added some time.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4123&d=1315592612

[Sailor]

Tilt front. NICE! How much extra time did that take. I see you made a lip around the edge where the hood meets the rest of the body, there's some fairly intricate work going on there that may not be apparent to someone who has never worked with glass before. I also like the louvres either side of the scoop. What's the paint scheme going to be?

[3kcarbon]

Bravo on the tilt front. I know its not "normal" and a lot of work but it is a nice idea and its been very temping.

[skullandbones]

Flip frontends look great but I haven't seen one on a roadster so far. Very cool. I also noticed you have helpers. Are they indentured or voluntary? I bet they are saying, "if I help, eventually, I can drive this thing".:D:D:D

I, especially, like the heat shield idea. I just got my Ultra sound/heat material. I am using it on the inside alum but I bet you could install some on the back side of the heatshield to get a double heat barrier effect with that air space in between. Can't hurt.

Thanks, WEK.

[dallas_]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments.


How much extra time did that take. Hard to tell because I didn't really keep track. But it took quite a while. Especially since we had to fabricate everything ourselves and also re-do a few things that didn't work out the first time. ;)

When we get finished I'll post a thread on how we did it. I know of only 2 other tilt fronts. We used some of their ideas and incorporated a few of our own. As more people do the tilt, there should be more information about ways to do it, it should take less time for others.


What's the paint scheme going to be? Good question. I've narrowed it down to blue, black, grey or red. Oh, and stripes or no stripes. Sigh....


I also noticed you have helpers. Are they indentured or voluntary? Depends on if you ask them or me! I found that body work is not their favorite activity though. :)