aluminum panels not lining up

[welske]

Hey all,

If someone who has experience with this can give me a tip that would be great!

I have some aluminum panels that I'm nearing the silicon/rivet stage, but they don't quite line up to the chassis member they will be riveted to.

I'm wondering 1) if it is going to be a problem? and if so, what sort of problem? and 2) what is the best way to cut them down?

I have tin snips and a cut off wheel (but that is about the best I have in the way of tools to trim these things).

Thanks in advance!!!

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[Papa]

The wall sections along the trans tunnel should be fine since the cover fits over those edges. The outer wall on the driver's side would be better to line up with the frame or be slightly below the frame. There will be carpet there when you're done, but that sharp edge could be an issue. Make sure the floor is down all the way along that side before trimming. A pair of snips is all you'll need. Trim the edge and then file it to remove any burs or rough edges.

[delta0014]

One of my panels along the transmission tunnel sticks up about 1/4 inch too. I was just gonna shave it down with a grinder just to make sure the tunnel cover sits flat.

[edwardb]

My experience with the aluminum panels is that they are very precise. More often then not I've found for me when something didn't appear to be fitting correctly it was user error. :p Don't trim anything until you are absolutely positive they are installed in the proper location, in the proper sequence, and with the proper overlaps. All make a difference. Trimming should be an absolute last resort. In this case, for the overhang on the sills and transmission tunnel, I'd make sure they're pushed down all the way and that the floor itself is down all the way and flat on the frame. My most common trimming is around welds, where sometimes a weld bead keeps a part from seating properly. Not saying trimming something isn't required. Just make sure it's last. Hard to put material back on once it's taken off.

One other thing to mention is check the bends. Those are done in shipping as the parts are assembled for the kit, and while usually pretty good, may not be quite as exact as the laser cut panels. If a flange isn't quite 90 degrees, for example, might keep the part from seating properly. I use one of these when fitting the aluminum to tweak things if needed. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-jaw-straight-sheet-metal-seamer-98728.html

[Garage Guy]

If the panel is in place grinder will work but not my first choice, dusty and loud as crap. Better to take the time to pre fit panels and cut with tin snips and file like papa said. The .040 aluminum cuts like butter with a good pair of aviation snips. If you have a lot to remove it is best to sneak up on your final cut line. I like to rough cut with pneumatic shears but finish the cut with snips and file. just my opinion

[Garage Guy]

very good point Paul

[welske]

Just realized I never thanked you guys for replying... Thanks!

Turned out I had a little bit of all the above. I had some bends that needed tweaking, I had one panel on the driver side where the tab was lined up on the outside rather than the inside and finally I did end up shaving off a little of one of the panels.

Things are looking well now - again, thank you for your help.