Lower A-Arm to frame question

[racecartom]

Donor A arm fit to frame mounts have abt a 1/8" gap. Should I shim or squeeze the mounts? Shimming sounds like the correct way to go.

[jlfernan]

Shim it! Never squeeze the mounts.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2561/jorgec.jpg (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=111)

[racecartom]

that's what I thought and thanks.......rct

[AJ Roadster NJ]

Resurrecting this thread because I respectfully disagree on the answer.

If you were mounting poly lower control arms, then yes, the answer would be to shim them.

However, you said you were mounting donor a-arms. They should NOT be shimmed, and instead you should "squish" the tabs against the ends of the steel bushings inside the rubber bushing. Those internal steel bushings are knurled on the ends from the factory. That is done to make them grip tightly to the chassis mount and therefore not move while the a-arm moves up and down under normal suspension loads.

The lower arms should be attached no more than finger snug during initial assembly. Then, with the car on the ground and the ride height set, they should be torqued to spec. That means that the rubber bushings will be relaxed and "home" at normal ride height. Then, as the suspension moves up and down (with the inner steel bushing fixed in position), the rubber bushing goes into rotational tension. That tension on the rubber bushings is part of your suspension. If you shim a donor a-arm, the shim will rotate against the chassis bracket and remove the effect of the bushing, rendering it pointless.

Also, there should be no grease AT ALL on the bolt ends or inner steel bushing ends, because the grease would cause the knurling to slip on the chassis bracket. Just a touch of grease, just a touch, on the middle portion of the bolt shaft that will ride fully inside the steel inner bushing.

Hope this helps. You can still remove your shims and re-mount if necessary, just make sure you clean up any grease present on the chassis brackets.

AJ