25th Anniversary Build

[delta0014]

Figured I'd start a build thread now to document the build and ask questions since my car should be arriving tomorrow afternoon sometime. Although from what I'm reading, the delivery will be a little light, lots and lots of back-ordered parts.....

So far Stewart Transportation has been great to work with. Was a flat fee of $1500 for them to deliver to GA.

I ordered the 25th Anniversary Roadster the day it was announced on Facebook. I wasn't planning on ordering a car so soon but it was hard to pass up, especially since the week before my wife and I had driven down and met wareaglescott and took a ride in his car. I asked for the build date to be delayed a little bit since I wasn't quite ready so soon. Not sure if that'll affect what # I get.

I went with the 18" Halibrand Wheels instead of the bronze wheels. I might regret that, but I just couldn't picture the bronze and chrome together.

I turn 40 in 14 months, my goal is to be driving it then.
I have no experience in building a car, so we'll see if I can make that timeline. Worked at a service station for a few years during high school, doing light duty stuff like tires/brakes, oil changes, and driving a tow truck. But haven't done much wrenching on cars since.
So I'll have lots of question.


25th Kit:
Bronze Chassis
Satin black powder-coated aluminum footbox panels
Special Edition Anniversary GPS Gauges
Full set of Special Edition Wilwood brakes
Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear
Special upholstered Anniversary leather seats with stitched logo and door panels
Special edition side badges and steering wheel center section
Independent Rear Suspension standard with front and rear sway bars
KONI double-adjustable shocks standard
Assembled side louvers
Chrome roll bar
Roll bar grommets
Stainless steel side exhaust
Stainless steel bumper set - front & rear hoops and overriders
All-new carbon fiber dash with glovebox
Sun visors and wind wings
Trunk gas strut kit
All-new Mk4 Roadster dedicated body mold with rectangular 427 tail lights and body cut-outs

Extras from FFR:
5.0L Coyote power steering kit
Headers 5.0L Coyote Stainless Steel 4 Port with Ball Collector
Passenger Side Chrome Roll-Bar
Roll Bar Grommets
Battery Cutoff Switch
Brake Duct Wire Mesh, preformed
EFI In-Tank Fuel System
2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs

Engine:
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 with Mid-shift
Supplied by Forte.

Tires:
Michelin Pilot Sport PS2
315/30R18
265/35R18

Body and Paint:
Plan on bringing it to Jeff Kleiner to do that.
I change my mind every other day on the color....

Few aftermarket items I either purchased or am looking at buying:

Russ Thompson Turn Signal
********** – Seat Belt Bezel
Under Dash Filler Panel – Replica Parts
FF Metal transmission Top
FF Metal Firewall
Billet Custom Button
2L1Z-4022-BA -- Vent Valve Rear End
FR3Z-4A058-A -- Vent Tube
Breeze Dead Pedal
Breeze Radiator Cowl Cover
Breeze Battery kit
Breeze Radiator Shroud
CNC Triple Reservoir Kit – Forte
Transmission Spacer – Forte
CobraHeat Seat Heaters

I'll be saving every receipt from the build too, so we'll see what the total is gonna be :eek:

Couple of pics to test out posting pics in here....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115423&d=1570222859
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115575&d=1570474609
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115576&d=1570474622
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115422&d=1570222618

[delta0014]

The car is here! #12 of 25

Delivery day was yesterday. Stewart showed up around noon. No issues unloading, driver was great.
Spent the rest of the day doing inventory (which sucked, but it's over for the most part) and removing the body. Inventory took awhile, some of the stuff is just not labeled well, although I could only find a few things that I'm missing that wasn't on the POL list.
Got the normal badging instead of the 25th anniversary badging...
The POL list was 3 pages long and includes most of the 25th stuff (seats, dash, brakes) and a lot of the bigger items.





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115692&d=1570588103
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115691&d=1570588092
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115693&d=1570588120
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115694&d=1570588135

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115696&d=1570588170
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115697&d=1570588197
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115699&d=1570589996

[Gizmosrcool]

Nice start and space. Congratulations!

[RBachman]

He had to have dropped yours off right after mine. Here's a picture I took of yours while still on the truck.115714

[Jdav]

Congrats!
I'm in ATL if you have any questions.

[delta0014]

He had to have dropped yours off right after mine. Here's a picture I took of yours while still on the truck.115714

He did say he came from South Carolina. He was suppose to drop one off in northern GA in the morning but that person wasn't around and didn't answer their phone. So he came to my house, had to move all of the other persons stuff out of the way to get to mine.

[delta0014]

Congrats!
I'm in ATL if you have any questions.

Thanks, I'm sure I will.
I'm just south of Atlanta in Newnan, GA.

[Paul Mischenko]

Congrats on your new build. When I first started my 20th Ann build 4 years ago I found it very helpful to go through each box, checking off each part as I went against the inventory log. Given the number there were a few missing but also made me aware of where everything was. I also bought a some large clear container bins and moved the parts into those. I found there was lots of moving around, opening, looking inside etc, those bins held up well over the 4 years. Read through the manual front to back a few times before starting which also helped. Biggest help however was this online forum, so many ideas and solutions to all the problems you may come across. Highly recommend edwardb 20th Ann build log, helped me a lot during my build. Best of luck and enjoy the journey, it's a lot of fun. Cheers

[GoDadGo]

The car is here!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115696&d=1570588170


That's A Great Looking Pit Crew!

.What a great car to teach them how to drive a stick!

[delta0014]

Installed most of the front suspension, don't have any shocks yet. Haven't torqued them down yet either, waiting on the shocks to do it all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115725&d=1570654153
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115724&d=1570654141

Cleaned up the rear diff and painted it with POR15. Worked well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115726&d=1570654163
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115727&d=1570654173

[delta0014]

Now, Question time...

I pulled out the power steering rack while waiting for the rear diff to dry.

Here is the rack and hardware I was given. The bushings were installed already when I got it, although they are not lined up or pushed in all the way. I cannot get them to budge at all. Not even a little bit.
And the spacer piece does not fit into metal part in the bushings, not even with some love taps. The bolt is very loose in those bushing without it.

Am I missing something? How do I get this to work?


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115728&d=1570654205
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115729&d=1570654523

[Jeff Kleiner]

The bushings that are presently in the rack need to come out and will be replaced by (4) rubber/poly inserts supplied by Factory Five which will then get the sleeve that is shown in your photo inserted through them.

You realize that the upper ball joint on the passenger side is not fully threaded in and seated in the control arm, right?

Jeff

[delta0014]

The bushings that are presently in the rack need to come out and will be replaced by (4) rubber/poly inserts supplied by Factory Five which will then get the sleeve that is shown in your photo inserted through them.

You realize that the upper ball joint on the passenger side is not fully threaded in and seated in the control arm, right?

Jeff

Ok, that makes sense. I have the bushings on the POL list, but the rack came with those already in them, so I figured something was up.... Gonna be a pain to get those out, they are tight... Wonder why they are in there?

Now that you point it out I do....:D
That's why I'm gonna post pics of everything, hopefully someone will correct all my mistakes. Which I'm sure that won't be the last by a long shot.

[michael everson]

Since your using the Breeze front battery mount, I would skip the battery shutoff switch. you will just have to run longer cables to put it anywhere useful. somebody makes battery disconnects that go right on he battery. Personally I never use them unless the battery is really hard to get to.
Mike

[delta0014]

25th Anniversary gauges.
Just got a shipping email for my brakes too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115695&d=1570588150

[Papa]

25th Anniversary gauges.
Just got a shipping email for my brakes too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115695&d=1570588150

It's cool that they dumped the clock in favor of an oil temp gauge! Very nice.

[wareaglescott]

Nice progress already. Congrats on delivery.

[michael everson]

Nice to see the water temp gauge is finally in F.
Mike

[Jdav]

Are those also buttons on the speedo and tach? I guess eliminating the remote button to cycle through the options?

[delta0014]

Daughter helped me out on the firewall. :)
A riot gun is almost mandatory for this build, works great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115787&d=1570750932

Helps having a TV in the garage with Youtube, even though those videos are a little old. The pedal box took me awhile, still not confident the clutch part is right, but I'll go back over it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115788&d=1570750950

Got 3 out of the 4 rear end bolts in.... Cannot get that last one to line up. Had to take a break from it. :mad:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115789&d=1570750968

Pedal box, brake cylinders and some steering brackets loosely attached. Missing most of the steering stuff so can't do anymore.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115790&d=1570750980

The 25th came with a lot of the aluminum panels powder coated, so they were not attached to the car, just loaded in a box.
Starting on the passenger footbox, but it takes awhile to sort out all the panels.

I'm missing so much stuff, that I'm basically just doing a few parts of each section while I wait on the POL list to get shipped.

[edwardb]

First I'm seeing the 25th Anniversary frame color. Interesting. Certainly different than what they put on the 20th like mine. I like the contrast between the frame and panels. Couple of hints. For the IRS diff, I recommend getting the two rear ones started first. Those are the ones that go into tapped holes in the rear diff cover. Just put them in far enough that the threads are started a few turns. Leave the rest out at first. Then add the front ones that go through the bushings and sleeves. Since they're not threaded, a little easier to get lined up and home. Once all are in, then tighten all of them. May not come to this for you, but I sanded tapers on two large bolts and use these to line things up. Then the bolts push right in. Works great.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/th_IMG_3351_zpsrfmo05qr.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3351_zpsrfmo05qr.jpg.html)

One other thing. You may find you want to put some type of finish on those bare metal parts. Like the formed steel parts used on the footbox in the pictures you posted. Not easily visible, but those parts will rust. A quick shot with Duplicolor or Eastwood rattle can spray will keep them looking clean.

[shark92651]

It's cool that they dumped the clock in favor of an oil temp gauge! Very nice.

Yup that is nice, I had to do that myself. I like the mode buttons integrated directly into the Speedo and Tach now as well.

[michael everson]

Ed. Those brackets are now stainless steel.
Do yourself a favor down the road and move the steering bearing to the inside of the foot box. It gives you just a little more room to get the steering shaft all connected.
Mike

[delta0014]

Passenger footbox is drilled and cleco'd. Any reason I shouldn't silicone / rivot it now? Will it block any future assembly process?
Need to order more cleco's too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115819&d=1570815808

[Garage Guy]

I don't see any reason why you couldn't silicone and rivet the toe box together although not having the floor of the toe box in place does make it easier to hang the exhaust bracket and run the fuel line. But I think about the panel's this way when a car is assembled on the assembly line all the sheet metal is in place on the frame of the unitized car which is a very similar situation to a factory five without the body on. And all the wiring and Plumbing are then put on the car and also the engine is put in place. But the more sheet metal that is in place just makes it a little more difficult to get everything in but not undoable

[EngineeringHiggy]

Those are beautiful gauges.

[PrestonT23]

Love the color of the chassis! Good luck with the build!

[wareaglescott]

I put the peel and stick heat shield on the inside of the footbox pieces before assembly. Made things a lot easier. When I went to install the carpet I found particularly in the drivers side footbox it would have been easier to preinstall some of those pieces as well before assembling them. In general I think the safest practice is to not rivet any panels in place until you really need to. You never know what ideas of mods might pop up or what task might be made easier by not having a panel permanently attached earlier than needed. Looks like you are making good progress!

[BadAsp427]

2x on the steering bearing on the front of your foot box. I would suggest mounting it on the inside. From the photo, it almost looks like you sandwiched the foot box between the two halves of the bearing, that would be the wrong way if you did. All parts go either on the inside or the outside. The reason you would really like it on the inside is that when you are installing your steering shaft, that extra 3/16-1/4" will be handy, trust all who have gone before...

The build is looking good.....

[delta0014]

I got some Dynamat ordered that should come tomorrow, I planned on sticking that on when I get it, never thought about the carpet though. I’ll have to look into that, sounds like a good idea. Thanks


I put the peel and stick heat shield on the inside of the footbox pieces before assembly. Made things a lot easier. When I went to install the carpet I found particularly in the drivers side footbox it would have been easier to preinstall some of those pieces as well before assembling them. In general I think the safest practice is to not rivet any panels in place until you really need to. You never know what ideas of mods might pop up or what task might be made easier by not having a panel permanently attached earlier than needed. Looks like you are making good progress!

[delta0014]

I’ll swap it around today. Thanks for the tips.


2x on the steering bearing on the front of your foot box. I would suggest mounting it on the inside. From the photo, it almost looks like you sandwiched the foot box between the two halves of the bearing, that would be the wrong way if you did. All parts go either on the inside or the outside. The reason you would really like it on the inside is that when you are installing your steering shaft, that extra 3/16-1/4" will be handy, trust all who have gone before...

The build is looking good.....

[delta0014]

Been working on this dang bolt all morning it seems like. I finally got it to start threading, but it will thread about half ways then hit an absolute wall...

I'm guessing the thread is damaged in there? It threads fine for the first part, but I'm going to strip the bolt if I wrench on it any harder.

I hate to take the bolt all the way since it was such a pain to get it in. Maybe try to tap the threads from the other side? Open to suggestions....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115865&d=1570897460

[delta0014]

Got the tires mounted, they look good sitting next to the car. Rear tires are a beast.
$100 to have all 4 mounted and balanced...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115817&d=1570815788
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115818&d=1570815796

[delta0014]

Got most of the panels drilled out. Don't plan on rivoting them any time soon.

Swapped around the steering bearing too that was recommended.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115868&d=1570905996

[Papa]

Been working on this dang bolt all morning it seems like. I finally got it to start threading, but it will thread about half ways then hit an absolute wall...

I'm guessing the thread is damaged in there? It threads fine for the first part, but I'm going to strip the bolt if I wrench on it any harder.

I hate to take the bolt all the way since it was such a pain to get it in. Maybe try to tap the threads from the other side? Open to suggestions....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115865&d=1570897460

You may want to run a tap in the hole if you think you have damaged threads.

Dave

[edwardb]

Been working on this dang bolt all morning it seems like. I finally got it to start threading, but it will thread about half ways then hit an absolute wall...

I'm guessing the thread is damaged in there? It threads fine for the first part, but I'm going to strip the bolt if I wrench on it any harder.

I hate to take the bolt all the way since it was such a pain to get it in. Maybe try to tap the threads from the other side? Open to suggestions....



If the threads are damaged, don't see how you're going to fix that without removing the bolt. Sounds like you're cranking on it pretty hard and I wouldn't push it any further. With that back cover made from aluminum, likely you'd damage something there before breaking the bolt. Not something you want to do. The picture gives the impression the bolt is angled. You might try backing the other side out some (still leaving threads engaged) and that might loosen the side you're having trouble with. Otherwise IMO remove it and see what's happening. Chase the threads if needed. Don't remember the exact size/pitch, but assume you know it's metric. When it's time to assemble again, I'd recommend putting some anti-seize on the threads. That might help.

[delta0014]

Success... Finally

Just to get the bolt in, I had to loosen all the others and remove the front bolt like edwardb suggested. Still took me awhile along with some choice words...

After running to Home Depot and Lowe's looking for a tap, neither had the right size, I ordered it on Amazon.
Then I decided to try it again.
I looked through the inventory sheet and found another bolt that was the same size, threaded it in from the back and it went in no problem up to the point where the other bolt got stuck.
I took a breaker bar and a socket, (probably wasn't a good idea), and turned it forward until it stopped then backed off. Kept going back and forth, probably 30 times, every time it went a little farther, even marked the bolt with a marker to see if it was making progress. Once the bolt turned about two times around, it started to get a lot easier and went all the way in.
I'm guessing I just damaged a couple of the threads while I was trying to line up the holes. Hope to god I don't have to take it out for any reason....


Now I'm kinda stuck, missing so many pieces I can't really do anything else. Gotta go back to work next week, so I won't have as much time anyways.

[michael everson]

Theres really no reason you cant install the floors, back wall ( all 3 pieces) and entire passenger foot box. I would leave the outside wall and both top pieces off of the driver side for ease of wiring pedals and insulation.
Mike

[WIS89]

Ben-

Congratulations on the start of a great build! I love the photos with the kids; they look like they are very interested in the project, which will be awesome. I wish I could have started mine when my kids were that age!

You are making good progress in spite of the inventory challenges. Keep up the good work. Also, I love the works space you have; looks like you have most of what you need, and it is all nicely arranged.

Thanks for having us along for the build! Enjoy the project, and the time you get to spend working on it with the kids!

Regards,

Steve

[delta0014]

Brakes showed up today. Got the front ones installed, still don't have any suspension parts for the rear so that'll have to wait.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116022&d=1571078812

[ydousurf]

Your build is coming along nicely, delta0014! I'll be following along since I have one of the 25th Anniversary Roadsters too. Keep the pics coming and enjoy the journey...

Dj

[delta0014]

Put some Dynamate in the passengers footbox.
E-brake is assembled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116092&d=1571230297

Drilling through the roll bars is no easy task. It's incredible how hard that is. I switched to a corded drill (which does work better), my cordless was getting really hot. Still have one hole to go, but think i need a new drill bit.
The top hole i think is slightly off center, which is annoying, but i doubt anyone would notice unless they were specifically looking for it.
Make sure you measure that about 50 times when you're doing it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116093&d=1571230306

I plan on doing the undercoating on the body this weekend...
Was looking at spraying U-Pol Raptor Black spray on bed liner.
If anyone has any experience with that, I'm open to all tips/tricks or reviews.
I'll tape everything off about 2 inches along the body lines.

[Papa]

Tip for drilling things like the roll bars. Start with small bits and progressively go larger until you have the right diameter. Use a lubricant to help cool the bits. Some use WD40, but I like Tap Magic cutting fluid.

Tap Magic 30004P Pro Tap - 4 oz, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMH8XM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QCYPDbYB1QZ18

[Gizmosrcool]

Tip for drilling things like the roll bars. Start with small bits and progressively go larger until you have the right diameter. Use a lubricant to help cool the bits. Some use WD40, but I like Tap Magic cutting fluid.

Tap Magic 30004P Pro Tap - 4 oz, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMH8XM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QCYPDbYB1QZ18

I’ve done a bit of drilling and milling, and wd40 while always on hand, never seems to do much for me. The tap magic works a lot better. But I never seem to have any or can find it when I need it. I am enjoying your build. Good stuff.

[delta0014]

The Coyote has been delivered!
It's huge, hopefully it fits.....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116195&d=1571414016
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116196&d=1571414025
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116197&d=1571414034
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116198&d=1571414043

[edwardb]

The Coyote has been delivered! It's huge, hopefully it fits...

Congrats. It fits, but it's tight as you'll find out. I suspect you'll want to do something with that Gen 3 engine cover. FWIW, the modified version of it I'm installing in my Gen 3 Coupe build. Used part of the supplied cover, and fabbed new parts that go over the heads. Doesn't hide everything, but it's not too bad. Will be painted body color with white trim. Except the center grey section that I'm leaving the natural color.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_1408_edit_zpsho2vmcmd.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1408_edit_zpsho2vmcmd.jpg.html)

[delta0014]

The engine cover does seem big.

[edwardb]

The engine cover does seem big.

Not so much that it's big. It's designed to fit around the shock towers in a Mustang. Doesn't look that great there (not just my opinion) and even worse elsewhere. But you can decide once you get the engine in. I haven't found any aftermarket options yet. Which is why I chose to do my own mod/fabrication.

[Papa]

Here's a nice looking cover. :p

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116204&d=1571431818

[Railroad]

Offering a tip on your new engine, trans and other bare metal. Now is a good time to apply Sharkhide.
I had to go back and apply after installation. All the cast alum on your trans will oxidize. Same for the engine and plated bolt heads, driveshaft flange, etc. It will keep everything looking like it is now, nice and new looking. On irregular surfaces, I use the foam brushes. They will be once and done, so buy a pack. You can trim them to the size you need. I am sure you will be pleased with the results, especially if you get to compare the items you missed to those coated.

[delta0014]

Here's a nice looking cover. :p

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116204&d=1571431818

That is a nice looking cover.... Would look damn good in my roadster if it didn't cost so much.

[delta0014]

Offering a tip on your new engine, trans and other bare metal. Now is a good time to apply Sharkhide.
I had to go back and apply after installation. All the cast alum on your trans will oxidize. Same for the engine and plated bolt heads, driveshaft flange, etc. It will keep everything looking like it is now, nice and new looking. On irregular surfaces, I use the foam brushes. They will be once and done, so buy a pack. You can trim them to the size you need. I am sure you will be pleased with the results, especially if you get to compare the items you missed to those coated.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

That is a nice looking cover.... Would look damn good in my roadster if it didn't cost so much.

That’s just a little more than a cover :)

Jeff

[edwardb]

Yeah, that supercharger is cool. And yeah, it's more than a cover. But from a pure cosmetic standpoint, it only changes the appearance of the intake and doesn't address the most glaring appearance issue with the Gen 3 Coyote. In stock form, the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyotes actually had three covers. One on each head, called coil covers vs. valve covers, and then of course over the intake. Between the three, you could dress them up a bit including some aftermarket options including shiny bling like I used on #8674. On the Gen 3 Coyote, the added Direct Injection (DI) means a bunch of new plumbing and complication on the heads so covers are no longer practical. That's why the stock Gen 3 cover is so large. In addition to being over the intake, it extends over the heads to try to cover them a bit. That's what I tried to do with the modded cover I showed earlier. It's not 100% successful because it's too high and just not big enough to cover everything. But it helps a little I think.

[delta0014]

I'm thinking about getting the engine ready and putting it in next week.

Any reason I shouldn't since I don't have any rear suspension, front shocks, fuel tank, power steering yet? It's all on backorder. I don't really have anything else to do on it except the engine.
I have the drivers footbox all drilled out, will probably rivot the engine side of it prior to the engine being installed. Don't have the pax or drivers floor panels yet either.

[wareaglescott]

Anything you need to install in the engine compartment area is going to be considerably harder with the engine in place from the perspective of getting tools to drill mounting locations in the space provided or maneuvering anything around in there. I would consider where you are going to run electrical, fuel and brake lines at a minimum and have an install plan for that stuff before putting the engine in.
Also you may find it difficult to impossible to get the transmission into the tunnel with it sitting on your frame cart. You have to bring it in at an angle and that center support of your frame cart will be in the way.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'd recommend running the brake hard lines to the front before the engine is in. Similarly, I generally recommend running the rear brake and fuel lines as well as rear harness wiring before the floors, rear cockpit and trunk aluminum is installed but I think that ship already sailed.

Jeff

[delta0014]

Front brake lines are in and I started running a rear brake line already. The only thing that is rivoted is the floors, everything else in the cockpit or trunk is just sitting there.
Was waiting on the fuel tank to start the fuel lines but maybe I’ll start on that. And the wiring.
No hurry, just knew I’d have some guys at the end of this week...
Was planning on using jack stands instead of the dolly to get the engine in.

[bobm488]

Offering a tip on your new engine, trans and other bare metal. Now is a good time to apply Sharkhide.
I had to go back and apply after installation. All the cast alum on your trans will oxidize. Same for the engine and plated bolt heads, driveshaft flange, etc. It will keep everything looking like it is now, nice and new looking. On irregular surfaces, I use the foam brushes. They will be once and done, so buy a pack. You can trim them to the size you need. I am sure you will be pleased with the results, especially if you get to compare the items you missed to those coated.

Have you had any issues with the sharkhide holding up on the engine? Seems like the engine temperature would affect it.
This stuff is pricy at $60, but if works and keeps the metals looking good I’m all in. What ‘s another $60…

[Railroad]

My engine has been up to temp less than a dozen times, but no issues with the Shark Hide yellowing or turning loose.
It also does very nicely on bare alum panels.
A little goes a long way. Put it on and let it flow out, do not keep brushing or spreading. You might try it on a sheet of alum to get the feel of it.

[tt400]

AW go with the superchager :rolleyes:

[Garage Guy]

Do you have any pictures of the safety wire on
the Wilwoods? just curious.

[Papa]

Do you have any pictures of the safety wire on
the Wilwoods? just curious.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116320&d=1571580768

[RodneyArcher]

Here is what I did, not nearly as custom as Paul's (EdwardB) but it will get painted to match the car.

116425

[Jdauble]

Congrats! You've made great progress so far... I just started the front suspension this weekend.

[delta0014]

Put some bedliner on the under side of the body today, tried to stay away from any edges, mainly just wanted a little extra protection in the wheel wells. Still have some left to do some touchups.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116525&d=1571781269

Started pulling out all the wiring too and mounted the fuse panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116524&d=1571781267

Wanted to put the engine in to have something to do, but when I went to get the stuff ready, I realized that the engine mounts are also on the POL list.... :(
Just don't have much to do now and they say the POL list could take several more weeks to start seeing anything...

[Jdauble]

The bushings that are presently in the rack need to come out and will be replaced by (4) rubber/poly inserts supplied by Factory Five which will then get the sleeve that is shown in your photo inserted through them.

You realize that the upper ball joint on the passenger side is not fully threaded in and seated in the control arm, right?

Jeff

Jeff & Ben,

I had the same problem with my ball joint on the upper control arm, not fully threaded / seated per your photo above. Now I've got it in to the point where I cant advance it further or back it out! I thought maybe that I may have cross -threaded the ball joint, but they look square and flush with the control arm. Any suggestions for this noobie on my next steps?
Thanks, Jeff

[Jdauble]

Ben, You can always come to Minneapolis and help me make some progress on my new build ?!? rolleyes:

[delta0014]

Jeff & Ben,

I had the same problem with my ball joint on the upper control arm, not fully threaded / seated per your photo above. Now I've got it in to the point where I cant advance it further or back it out! I thought maybe that I may have cross -threaded the ball joint, but they look square and flush with the control arm. Any suggestions for this noobie on my next steps?
Thanks, Jeff

Mine threaded relatively easy, I just forgot to tighten that one down. Wish I had a suggestion, other then to get a BFW....
The one I forgot, I just took a big adjustable wrench and tightened it down.

[Papa]

What are you using to turn it? I followed the manual and set the joint in my vise and used the control arm to turn it.

[delta0014]

One other thing that took me far longer to figure out then I care to admit... On the Coyote engine, you have to install a new oil and temp sender on it before you put it in... I looked everywhere for those senders, read through a bunch of forums to figure out if I had to order them, looked through the inventory sheets with no luck.
Then figured out they came in the box with the gauges... I just looked at the gauges when I got the kit and threw it in my office for safe keeping.

[2FAST4U]

Great progress. Involve your kids in every step of the build. It builds memories that will last a lifetime. My kids helped me with my first two builds and they still talk about it today (they’re 29 and 26 now). Have fun

[Garage Guy]

You can get the socket from amazon for the upper ball joint. I think it was 25$ It's for a Chrysler ball joint it allows you to put even pressure on all four sides of the ball joint it. It Came in 3/4 inch Drive.

[delta0014]

Someone's gotta figure this mess out...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116570&d=1571858677

[Jeff Kleiner]

I know that with the help of her unicorn she can do it!

Jeff

[Garage Guy]

Back when I was 16 I was working in a body shop. The first day on the job the owner handed me a box of parts and a van that was missing the front end. His words of wisdom he gave me where start with one thing you know move on to the next it'll all come together eventually. Took me six tries but I finally got it

[delta0014]

So far, i've just been laying out all the wiring, but it seems to be labeled very well. I'm not doing anything extra so it shouldn't be too bad once you figure out where to route it.

[Garage Guy]

I found the directions very good in regards to the wiring. I thought it was daunting at first but once you get into it it's pretty simple

[delta0014]

Question on the Gen 3 Coyote Oil sender...
Suppose to switch the senders per the instructions. The one on the left is the one that I pulled out of the engine and the one on the right is the new one.
They do not fit and I cannot figure out what adapter I'm suppose to use. Anyone else do this? How did you get it to fit?
The water one is a standard size and was able to buy that, but the oil sender seems to be a weird size...Either too big with the fitting that came with it or too small without it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116635&d=1572017314

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116636&d=1572017323

[edwardb]

Question on the Gen 3 Coyote Oil sender...
Suppose to switch the senders per the instructions. The one on the left is the one that I pulled out of the engine and the one on the right is the new one.
They do not fit and I cannot figure out what adapter I'm suppose to use. Anyone else do this? How did you get it to fit?
The water one is a standard size and was able to buy that, but the oil sender seems to be a weird size...Either too big with the fitting that came with it or too small without it.

Here's my experience on that topic based on the Gen 3 Coyote I put in my Gen 3 Coupe. Lots of details in the build thread. Link in my sig line if you're interested. I'm afraid I don't have all the answers yet.

1. The threads on the Coyote are metric. So unless you can find an appropriate metric to SAE adapter, an adapter likely isn't the answer. But even if you did, read on...

2. Unable to find an adapter, I removed the piece from the block (three bolts and an easy to re-use O-ring) and tapped it for the appropriate pipe thread. Speedhut sender mounted and all seemed OK.

3. I had checked with Ford Performance in advance, and they told me, like the Gen 2 Coyote crate, the OE oil pressure sensor is not active in the crate motor calibration. So it was safe to do the swap as described.

4. However I'm getting P0521 (oil pressure sender) and P0524 (oil pressure low) DTS codes every time I run the engine. That would indicate the OE oil pressure sensor is active in the current Gen 3 Coyote crate calibration. Unlike what they told me unfortunately. Note that I've tried it both with the Ford sender on the pigtail and tied out of the way, or with the sender not on the pigtail. How I have my Gen 2 wired. Same DTS codes either way.

5. I've been trying for some months now (that's right...) to get an answer from Ford Performance. Is the oil pressure sensor active in the Gen 3 Coyote crate motor calibration? So far no answer in spite of repeated follow-ups. There have been some changes and apparently people gone over there, and this seems to be the result.

6. If I don't get any further direction from Ford, I will likely remove the part from the block, buy a new one (since I drilled and tapped out the original sensor hole), put the stock sensor back where it came from, and see if I can find a different location on the part to drill/tap a new hole for the Speedhut sensor. Another option would be to do a "T" arrangement, which was how Gen 2's were originally done before the pressure sensor was confirmed not used.

This doesn't solve your problem, but maybe gives you some direction and also keeps you from making it worse like maybe I did. Maybe if you call Ford Performance and bug them that would help expedite an answer. Sure hasn't worked for me. Good luck and let us know.

[delta0014]

Wow, thanks Paul.
Surprised FFR doesn’t have a solution of some type for this.
Think I’m gonna put the engine in and come back to this problem.....

[delta0014]

I did email FFR too, so I guess we'll see what they say.

[edwardb]

Wow, thanks Paul.
Surprised FFR doesn’t have a solution of some type for this.
Think I’m gonna put the engine in and come back to this problem.....


I did email FFR too, so I guess we'll see what they say.

Just to confirm, I never spoken with FFR or asked them about this issue. I had my Gen 3 Coyote before they had one, and running before they were offering it. As of today, no instructions for the Gen 3 Coyote on their website. So maybe someone there would know about this. But I've been dealing directly with Ford Performance, whose engineers have actually written the code and should be able to answer.

[delta0014]

Just to confirm, I never spoken with FFR or asked them about this issue. I had my Gen 3 Coyote before they had one, and running before they were offering it. As of today, no instructions for the Gen 3 Coyote on their website. So maybe someone there would know about this. But I've been dealing directly with Ford Performance, whose engineers have actually written the code and should be able to answer.

You would definitely think Ford could answer the questions about the code popping up...

[delta0014]

I ran to Lowe's to figure out what size the threads are. The sensor in the engine is a M12 x 1.5.
Speedhut Gauges sells a M12 x 1.5 to 1/8 inch. I might try that.
They want more for shipping then the actual part costs.... :(

[Papa]

Have you looked on Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=M12+x+1.5+to+1%2F8+inch&ref=nb_sb_noss

[delta0014]

Have you looked on Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=M12+x+1.5+to+1%2F8+inch&ref=nb_sb_noss

How did people build these cars before Amazon and the internet in general??????

[edwardb]

Good for you guys. You found adapters. I didn't even try. Would have been better than what I did. But still begs the question -- based on what I'm seeing actually running and driving mine, the stock sensor needs to be there. Then add the Speedhut for the gauge. If you just replace, well, already explained what will happen...

[delta0014]

Good for you guys. You found adapters. I didn't even try. Would have been better than what I did. But still begs the question -- based on what I'm seeing actually running and driving mine, the stock sensor needs to be there. Then add the Speedhut for the gauge. If you just replace, well, already explained what will happen...

Yea, little nervous for that when it comes time to run it.

[Garage Guy]

I know you have a Mike Forte motor have you tried bouncing the question off of him? I know he didn't build it but he's usually pretty knowledgeable might know if the computer is looking for it or not just a thought. Secondly looking at mine seems to me like it would be better to deal with it before the motor is in it's going to get pretty tight in that area.

[edwardb]

Yea, little nervous for that when it comes time to run it.


I know you have a Mike Forte motor have you tried bouncing the question off of him? I know he didn't build it but he's usually pretty knowledgeable might know if the computer is looking for it or not just a thought. Secondly looking at mine seems to me like it would be better to deal with it before the motor is in it's going to get pretty tight in that area.

This is a real issue and you have to address it. If you remove the OE oil pressure sensor, short of a new PCM calibration from Ford, you will get oil pressure DTS codes. I have confirmed with actual running and driving with the Gen 3 Coyote as already described. You can forge ahead if you want, but be prepared for the same issue. All due respect to Mike and FFR, even if they know about it, they aren't going to be able to give you a PCM related solution. Only Ford can provide that, and so far haven't been inclined to do so. I have no idea how many Gen 3 Coyotes crate motors Ford Performance has sold. But apparently other customers aren't removing the OE sensor as we are, otherwise perhaps they would address it. The bigger issue, and this is purely a guess, is that oil pressure related issues are serious to say the least. So wouldn't surprise me in the least if the engine programmers have the engine go into some type of reduced power, limp home, or even shut down mode if the PCM is throwing these codes repeatedly or for a certain period of time. IMO it's not something you can just ignore, e.g. not mount the MIL or ignore that it's lit. Assuming there isn't a solution from Ford, I'm planning to put a "T" on mine so that both OE and Speedhut sensors are installed and active. Gen 1 and early Gen 2 Coyotes used to be installed this way. Like this from a picture in early Factory Five Coyote installation instructions. I haven't worked out the details yet since my Coupe is at the painter right now. But this will be one of the things I address when it's back and before it goes on the road. Unfortunately now with colder weather arriving in Michigan, won't be driving until next Spring. So I have plenty of time.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/oil_pressure_sensor_zpsq1bspkd1.png (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/oil_pressure_sensor_zpsq1bspkd1.png.html)

[delta0014]

After poking around online, I found a couple articles about swapping gauges on a Coyote engine, they specifically mention using a T fitting to avoid "check gauges" indicator from coming on.
I ordered the T fitting and adapters to make it work. My plan is to install it with the T. Not much else I can do to address this issue until I know it's an issue once i start it.
FFR emailed back but was basically no help, they just stated that everything I need is included in the coyote fitment kit, which the kit doesn't even have the right sized adapters......

[edwardb]

After poking around online, I found a couple articles about swapping gauges on a Coyote engine, they specifically mention using a T fitting to avoid "check gauges" indicator from coming on.
I ordered the T fitting and adapters to make it work. My plan is to install it with the T. Not much else I can do to address this issue until I know it's an issue once i start it.
FFR emailed back but was basically no help, they just stated that everything I need is included in the coyote fitment kit, which the kit doesn't even have the right sized adapters......

With a T you'll never see the issue. I am very interested in what fitting(s) and adapter(s) you plan to use. Plus would be great if you could post a picture of your final installation. Would help me and I'm sure others.

[Garage Guy]

Yes can't wait to see it also.

[delta0014]

I will definitely post pics of it and anything else you want to see.
Hopefully it works, should be here Monday, so if it works I hope to put the engine in Tuesday or Wednesday.

[delta0014]

OK, back to the one part that has caused me confusion...
The clutch quadrant.
It seems like the manual and the online manual are different. The written manual also has a pre and post 2016 diagram. Anyone want to look at this and tell me what's wrong?
The bolt in the middle seems way too big, but that's what was in the bag. The hole in front has something attached to it in the manual, but what?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116732&d=1572137232
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116731&d=1572137219

The written manual has me installing the clutch stop thing pictured, but where does it bolt to? The online manual does not include it. The wiring harness does not show anything gets hooked up to it....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116729&d=1572137199

And the brake safety switch does not reach the brake pedal and is extended all the way. Any ideas? The clutch one seems fine. The brake pedal is hitting the cross bar now, which i've read other people have been able to adjust it forward slightly so it doesn't hit, which would put it farther away from the brake switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116730&d=1572137209

[Papa]

The hole with the question mark is for the clutch pedal stop and position adjustment, but your configuration looks different than mine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84541&d=1524420630

For that brake light switch, which side of the pedal box frame did you attach the switch tab on? It makes a difference and should be on the side nearest the brake pedal.

[Garage Guy]

In the first page of your build thread in extras you list a 3 chamber reservoir from Michael Forte. I assumed that meant you were going with a hydraulic clutch is that true?

[Garage Guy]

I also have a email from ffr from about 6 months ago that had the Clutch Quadrant stop as a 3/8 bolt going through that whole that you have a? By double nutted as the stop. And my kit came with two brake switches that went under the pedal box one was a clutch switch and one was a brake switch they look the same as far as I know that top mounted one is discontinued.

[delta0014]

I did verify that the switch tab is on the right side.
The two switches (brake and clutch) do look identical that are mounted underneath, that was my first thought is that I mounted them on the wrong side.
That was my guess was that the top one was discontinued...
Could always add some sort of spacer to get the brake pedal to hit the switch, but I'd rather try to figure it out first.

[delta0014]

I don't plan to do the hydraulic clutch either.
I wanted the triple reservoir just because it looks nice but it's no longer made, so that's not an option.
I might still get a double one for each brake cylinder.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I did verify that the switch tab is on the right side...


By "right side" do you mean what is shown in the diagram or what will actually work? If you went by the diagram they won't reach and you need to do as Papa said and mount the tabs for the switches on the other side of the rib moving them closer to the pedal.

As for the 'too long" bolt; that's what they have been sending for a while. The one that is called out (1.25" if I recall) was not long enough to fully engage the nylock. Why they went with one this long rather than just 1.5" I don't know---the excess length doesn't hurt anything; just seems odd and sets off our OCD ;)

Jeff

[delta0014]

It is mounted on the side that's closest to the brake pedal, I've checked it a few times.

And the bolt doesn't seem to hurt anything that I could tell either, just looks weird and out of place...
Every time I look at it, I think something else is suppose to be there... Maybe it is just OCD.

[edwardb]

Kind of losing track here, but these observations FWIW: I've not had any trouble getting the brake switch to be long enough to properly engage the brake pedal and have not installed any spacers. I looked for pictures to confirm which side I've installed them on, but couldn't find any. But isn't a problem in my experience, especially with this newer style switch Factory Five has been providing for the past couple years. Are you positive about the location of your brake pedal itself, e.g. adjusted via the master cylinder clevises on the balance bar? Also have you checked whether the amount the plunger is moving in the switch is actually switching? As I recall, it doesn't have to go all the way in. You want the brake lights to turn on with very light pressure on the pedal.

For the clutch switch, seems to be some confusion here. (1) With a Coyote installation, you don't use the tab and the Factory Five supplied clutch switch. (2) The Coyote "bottom clutch" switch up on the clutch quadrant is required. It comes with the control pack and the connection for it is on the Coyote harness. (There used to also be a Coyote "top switch" which was discontinued. Perhaps that's a source of confusion.) (3) I've always done hydraulic clutches, so haven't used the Factory Five mod to convert the Wilwood pedal box to cable operation. But they do provide the pieces to mount the Coyote bottom switch. Looks like you have the actuator. But you don't have the piece that holds the switch. Check page 61 in these instructions which you should have: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Coyote-Fitment-roadster-rev-2B.pdf. Shows the piece that you're asking about. Goes under the pedal box mounting bolts and the switch clips into place. (4) Like I said, haven't done that cable mod, but if that bolt is too long and interferes with the Coyote switch, seems simple enough to trim it a bit. Just leave threads through the lock nut, which should be standard practice. Hope that helps.

[delta0014]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it.
Sounds like the switch on the bottom, similar to the brake switch, is not needed and I only use the top switch?
Ill have to go back through the parts and look for that bracket. Just seems like the printed manual, online manual and chasis wiring manual all had slightly different diagrams and instructions for the clutch.

The brake pedal I think barely touches the switch, doubtful it pushes it in even a little bit, and if I adjust the pedal to not hit the crossbar it wouldn't touch it at all. I'll have to go back through it tonight when I'm home. If I don't need the other tab for the clutch, i could use that as a spacer maybe, should be enough.

[edwardb]

Sounds like the switch on the bottom, similar to the brake switch, is not needed and I only use the top switch?

Right. That's what I described. For a Coyote installation.



I'll have to go back through the parts and look for that bracket. Just seems like the printed manual, online manual and chasis wiring manual all had slightly different diagrams and instructions for the clutch.

The parts in question (the top switch, actuator and mounting) are Coyote only related and included in the Coyote completion kit. So are in the Coyote instructions. Like what I linked which I hope you're using. Not actually part of the clutch mod, and wouldn't be used in a non-Coyote build.



The brake pedal I think barely touches the switch, doubtful it pushes it in even a little bit, and if I adjust the pedal to not hit the crossbar it wouldn't touch it at all. I'll have to go back through it tonight when I'm home. If I don't need the other tab for the clutch, i could use that as a spacer maybe, should be enough.

Something isn't right. It was asked before whether you had the tab on the correct side of the rib in the Wilwood pedal box. Sure that you do? The ones I've done had plenty of adjustment without any added spacers. Do what you need to do, but sure can't explain why it's happening if mounted per the instructions. And no, the brake arm cannot be touching the crossbar. It's critical to the operation of the master cylinders that they are the stop point for the pedal arm. Nothing else.

[Papa]

One other thing to look at that I noticed in your second photo in your post above. It looks like the clevis is quite a bit away from the pivot point and the rod may be at an angle to the master cylinder. From every other picture I've seen of the bias bar assembly, the front and rear clevises are very close to the pivot point. Have you trimmed the push rods at all? I'm not sure if it's still an issue or not, but when I was doing mine, I needed to shorten the push rods a bit to get the pedal away from the chassis cross brace. Take a look at the video I made after getting everything adjusted:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JKTn6t6aoU

[edwardb]

One other thing to look at that I noticed in your second photo in your post above. It looks like the clevis is quite a bit away from the pivot point and the rod may be at an angle to the master cylinder. From every other picture I've seen of the bias bar assembly, the front and rear clevises are very close to the pivot point. Have you trimmed the push rods at all? I'm not sure if it's still an issue or not, but when I was doing mine, I needed to shorten the push rods a bit to get the pedal away from the chassis cross brace. Take a look at the video I made after getting everything adjusted:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JKTn6t6aoU

Good catch. Yeah, the MC's and spacing on the balance bar need to be exactly as explained in the instructions. Another thing I just noticed looking at the pictures. You could try taking the inside jam nut out of the brake switch. That would put the switch that much closed to the pedal arm.

[delta0014]

I took the brake switch out and noticed the tab looked like it was leaning away from the brake pedal, so I just took a big pliers and bent it towards the pedal... Problem solved for the switch.

I cannot find the clutch switch mount yet, still looking. Inventory sheet states that it was put in a different box, but I never checked it off. May have been an oversight on my part during inventory...

I will look over the MC's balance bar, I didn't do anything with those because I thought I read on the forum to just leave it until your ready to bleed the brakes.

[delta0014]

So if the kit wiring has a clutch switch wires and the coyote wiring has a clutch wiring switch, what did you do with the ron francis clutch switch wires? Just tape them off?

[Jeff Kleiner]

You have to join them together to complete the circuit.

Jeff

[edwardb]

So if the kit wiring has a clutch switch wires and the coyote wiring has a clutch wiring switch, what did you do with the ron francis clutch switch wires? Just tape them off?


You have to join them together to complete the circuit.

Jeff

It depends. If you're going to use the Coyote start wire and PCM controlled start function (I personally recommend and I think is the most common installation) then the Ron Francis blue wires for the clutch switch wires aren't used and aren't in any circuit. You can either tie them off or remove completely. The only start wire you need is the blue EFI wire in the RF harness to the Coyote SMR. The Coyote clutch switch discussed previously, using wires from the Coyote harness, provides the safety switch function and replaces the RF function.

Factory Five doesn't have a Gen 3 Coyote installation manual yet, that I know of. But between the Gen 2 version where the wiring is very similar and the Ford Performance installation instructions, these questions are all covered. This one specifically on pages 78 - 79 in the instructions I linked previously. https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Coyote-Fitment-roadster-rev-2B.pdf. I'll bet if you review it thoroughly a lot of this will make more sense.

[delta0014]

Ahh, yes. I guess it helps to read.... Thanks.

[toadster]

have you seen Breeze insulation kits? I'll most likely get them for my build... looks like an excellent option to seal/deadend the panels and they're already pre-cut! :)

https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/koolmat-mk4-roadster-2/
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/koolmat-insulation-kit-for-mk4-roadster-rear-cockpit-wall/

[delta0014]

have you seen Breeze insulation kits? I'll most likely get them for my build... looks like an excellent option to seal/deadend the panels and they're already pre-cut! :)

https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/koolmat-mk4-roadster-2/
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/koolmat-insulation-kit-for-mk4-roadster-rear-cockpit-wall/

I did see those, thought about it, but you can do it cheaper by just ordering it and cutting it yourself. I ordered Dynamat from Amazon, it's pretty easy to shape and cut it.

I did get the metric to sae adapter today and it screws into the engine perfectly. Looks like it should work good. Still waiting on the T adapter to show up, should be here tonight. Hopefully the engine will go in tomorrow.

Found the clutch switch mount and put that on. All should be good with that now.

[delta0014]

Here's the T fitting and adapters that I plan to use to connect both oil sensors and hopefully avoid any issues.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116869&d=1572369456

Broke the brass one off, didn't even feel like i tightened it that much, but now i'll have to order another one.....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116870&d=1572369469

It's a tight fit with the water sensor in there too and to try to make it tight and still have access to plug it in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116871&d=1572369484

[delta0014]

Got the engine in today with the help of some friends. Went pretty good, maybe took 30 mins once we started. Everything lined up good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116882&d=1572391979
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116881&d=1572391946
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116880&d=1572391936

[delta0014]

With the engine in, I started installing some of the other things. Looks like there is plenty of room to work with the oil/water senders, as long as the headers are not in.

FYI: If you are doing the front battery mount from Breeze, it would be much easier to drill the holes before the engine is in. Doable after but was kinda a pain.

[Kmcallahan]

The car is here! #12 of 25

Delivery day was yesterday. Stewart showed up around noon. No issues unloading, driver was great.
Spent the rest of the day doing inventory (which sucked, but it's over for the most part) and removing the body. Inventory took awhile, some of the stuff is just not labeled well, although I could only find a few things that I'm missing that wasn't on the POL list.
Got the normal badging instead of the 25th anniversary badging...
The POL list was 3 pages long and includes most of the 25th stuff (seats, dash, brakes) and a lot of the bigger items.





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115692&d=1570588103
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115691&d=1570588092
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115693&d=1570588120
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115694&d=1570588135

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115696&d=1570588170
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115697&d=1570588197
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115699&d=1570589996

This is exciting to see. Congratulations. I am expecting delivery of my 25th anniversary kit on about 11/21. I received brakes last week and put team together. I can't wait for when mine arrives. Good luck with the build.

[delta0014]

OK, time for questions.....

Hooked up the cold air intake and power steering.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116948&d=1572548583

Do I really have all this left over after hooking up the cold air?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116947&d=1572548412

Pulled the Coyote wiring harness, says to a 2 drill inch hole, but they give you a grommet for a much smaller hole.... Might have to see about doing something with this. I pulled it out and tried putting it in a smaller hole but the ends wouldn't even come close to fitting through the hole. Anyone get this?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116946&d=1572548404

Starter connections on the wiring harness has three connections and another one from the coyote harness. There's 2 big and 1 small connector on the starter... Which one goes where? The blue taped one is the one i'm suppose to cut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116945&d=1572548397

Now to the fuel pressure regulator hookup. They gave me these three braided fuel hoses, but they are long. Is this really what connects the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel line that I ran up the passenger footboy? I assume the smaller one connects to the fuel rail on the engine. Am I missing something? I haven't hooked up the fuel tank/pump since I don't have them but I don't see anything in the instructions for using these.
And the vacuum hose line coming off the pressure regulator, where does that go?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116944&d=1572548387

[Garage Guy]

Don't know for sure but I think the braided lines go all the way back to the tank

[edwardb]

Yes, all those plastic OE cold air intake pieces are leftover. Into the recycle bin for me. I'm assuming that cone air filter is what came with your kit, and doesn't fit the Spectre parts you're using. That's a donor piece they provide, and not sure why to be honest. Worth 10 - 20 bucks if you want to take the time to sell leftover parts. For you picture of the cold air intake, highly recommended to put the MAF sensor on the front of the intake run. So that it's in the longest path of air travel. Speaking of the MAF sensor, make sure you exactly followed the instructions and have it in the right way. Common error to have it in backwards (it will go either way) which will result in a no start/no run condition.

For those three large wires, those don't have to physically go to the starter. In fact I generally recommend against it. They're usually not long enough, or at the very least it's not very clean looking dragging them down there. Your Coyote completion kit came with a large binding post. That's to go on the firewall and be a gathering point for those wires, your wire from the battery, and also can hook your PDB power wire there. Or you can use a master disconnect as a gathering point. The RF wiring diagram shows those going to a "starter solenoid" which IMO is a throwback to the days when Ford starters didn't have an integral solenoid and used one mounted on the firewall. And yes, that blue wire in that bundle is not used if you're using the Coyote start wire.

[delta0014]

Don't know for sure but I think the braided lines go all the way back to the tank

That’s what I assumed too, even though the instructions had me run the hard lines earlier, I was gonna rip those out and run the braided lines back... Figured I would double check before undoing something.

[delta0014]

I made sure the MAF sensor is facing the right way, read about that a few times on people’s forum’s. Do you mean put the MAF sensor near the engine instead of next the air filter?

[edwardb]

I made sure the MAF sensor is facing the right way, read about that a few times on people’s forum’s. Do you mean put the MAF sensor near the engine instead of next the air filter?

No. Rotate the tube so it's on the outside of the curve, meaning the front of the intake, e.g. front of the car. Visible in this picture. Recommended in that location by Ford, tuners, etc. Gets the best airflow signal apparently.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/.highres/IMG_0396_zpscdolehnd.jpg (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/d9c3a849-7f9a-4ca7-90ce-56212115a127)

[delta0014]

No. Rotate the tube so it's on the outside of the curve, meaning the front of the intake, e.g. front of the car. Visible in this picture. Recommended in that location by Ford, tuners, etc. Gets the best airflow signal apparently.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/.highres/IMG_0396_zpscdolehnd.jpg (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/d9c3a849-7f9a-4ca7-90ce-56212115a127)

Ah, gotcha. Thanks for the pic. I tilted it down just cause I thought it looked better, but I’ll flip it around

[Alex_V]

The bushings that are presently in the rack need to come out and will be replaced by (4) rubber/poly inserts supplied by Factory Five which will then get the sleeve that is shown in your photo inserted through them.

You realize that the upper ball joint on the passenger side is not fully threaded in and seated in the control arm, right?

Jeff

I don't recall having extra bushings with power steering bag of parts. I shoved the "stock" (what came on PS rack) bushings with original spacers into the frame tabs and it all seems to fit.

[delta0014]

One of the wire connectors shows "C132 AAT". From what I can figure out that is for the Ambient Air Temperature. It's on the same bundle as "C400 2 Way ICP", which I think is for a supercharger, which I don't need..... yet.

I can't find anything in the directions that mentions if I need the C132 AAT or where it would go? Anyone have any insight?

Also on another bundle, I have "C1572 UEGO", O2 sensor I believe but it also has on the same bundle "C141 CMS RH and LH"... I can't figure out what that's for.

[delta0014]

Ok, so what I found is that the AAT connector is for a temp display on a mustangs IPC. So not needed for my car.

The "C141 CMS" connector is for a different type of O2 sensor. (heated vs non heated?). So again, don't think i need to worry about that.

If anyone knows something different, I'm all ears.

As far as the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, I believe it either attaches to the smaller vacuum line on the intake manifold or the throttle body. About the only thing I could find references the throttle body, so I'm going to hook it up to that line.?

[edwardb]

One of the wire connectors shows "C132 AAT". From what I can figure out that is for the Ambient Air Temperature. It's on the same bundle as "C400 2 Way ICP", which I think is for a supercharger, which I don't need..... yet.

I can't find anything in the directions that mentions if I need the C132 AAT or where it would go? Anyone have any insight?

Also on another bundle, I have "C1572 UEGO", O2 sensor I believe but it also has on the same bundle "C141 CMS RH and LH"... I can't figure out what that's for.

You're right about C400. That's for a supercharger intercooler. I removed it since I have no intentions of adding a supercharger. But doesn't hurt to leave it if any doubt. C132 Ambient Air Temp is a mystery to me. It says in the Ford Performance instructions (page 13) to connect it on the engine. But there's no mating connector and I looked everywhere. I asked Ford Performance and didn't get an answer. My engine is running and showing no codes related to that, so not worrying about it. But left the connector just in case.

C141 CMS RH and LH are for downstream O2 sensors, which are not installed on the crate engine. Page 9 says not used.

[edwardb]

Ok, so what I found is that the AAT connector is for a temp display on a mustangs IPC. So not needed for my car.

The "C141 CMS" connector is for a different type of O2 sensor. (heated vs non heated?). So again, don't think i need to worry about that.

If anyone knows something different, I'm all ears.

As far as the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, I believe it either attaches to the smaller vacuum line on the intake manifold or the throttle body. About the only thing I could find references the throttle body, so I'm going to hook it up to that line.?

I documented vacuum line connections in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Wet-Sanding-Done-Bring-on-the-Color&p=351623&viewfull=1#post351623. Unfortunately, not covered in any instructions. Also not covered is the vacuum required for the CMCV circuit. You need to address or you'll throw codes related to that. The same post shows how to hook it up.

[delta0014]

You're right about C400. That's for a supercharger intercooler. I removed it since I have no intentions of adding a supercharger. But doesn't hurt to leave it if any doubt. C132 Ambient Air Temp is a mystery to me. It says in the Ford Performance instructions (page 13) to connect it on the engine. But there's no mating connector and I looked everywhere. I asked Ford Performance and didn't get an answer. My engine is running and showing no codes related to that, so not worrying about it. But left the connector just in case.

C141 CMS RH and LH are for downstream O2 sensors, which are not installed on the crate engine. Page 9 says not used.

Perfect, thanks for confirming it. Figured you'd have the answer.
The only reference about the AAT sensor was in a mustang forum that I read.

[delta0014]

I documented vacuum line connections in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Wet-Sanding-Done-Bring-on-the-Color&p=351623&viewfull=1#post351623. Unfortunately, not covered in any instructions. Also not covered is the vacuum required for the CMCV circuit. You need to address or you'll throw codes related to that. The same post shows how to hook it up.

Sorry to keep asking noob questions,
But on the vacuum, you used the tube that you added a "Y" in and connected the throttle body and intake manifold vacuum sources and then ran the line off the Y to the fuel pressure regulator?

[edwardb]

Sorry to keep asking noob questions,
But on the vacuum, you used the tube that you added a "Y" in and connected the throttle body and intake manifold vacuum sources and then ran the line off the Y to the fuel pressure regulator?

Yes.

[delta0014]

Ok.... One last thing I need to confirm on the wiring, then I think I got it all figured out...

The 2 "CAN HS" wires are for aftermarket items, which I won't need.

The "12V KEY ON" I believe is for aftermarket items also, just will provide power when the key is on "ACC" mode.?.?
Just wanted to confirm I can wrap those 3 up....

Otherwise I think i have all the wiring figured out, I ordered a 4 post power distribution block to mount on the firewall for the starter cables like some had suggested.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117090&d=1572808501

[edwardb]

Ok.... One last thing I need to confirm on the wiring, then I think I got it all figured out...

The 2 "CAN HS" wires are for aftermarket items, which I won't need.

The "12V KEY ON" I believe is for aftermarket items also, just will provide power when the key is on "ACC" mode.?.?
Just wanted to confirm I can wrap those 3 up....

Otherwise I think i have all the wiring figured out, I ordered a 4 post power distribution block to mount on the firewall for the starter cables like some had suggested.


Those three wires aren't needed. Cap them, tie off, whatever.

[PeteMeindl]

That’s what I assumed too, even though the instructions had me run the hard lines earlier, I was gonna rip those out and run the braided lines back... Figured I would double check before undoing something.

I did the same thing as you - installed the hard fuel lines and then realized later on that the braided lines would take their place and run all the back to the fuel tank.

[delta0014]

I did the same thing as you - installed the hard fuel lines and then realized later on that the braided lines would take their place and run all the back to the fuel tank.

Probably something that seems obvious to an experiences builder but I definitely second guessed it. Braided lines are pretty nice though.
You learn a lot building this, makes me want to build another one just to put the experience to good use.

[delta0014]

I did put the shifter on just to see if I'd have to cut the brace going across the transmission tunnel. It doesn't look like i'll have to, 3rd and 5th don't hit it, although I am going to use a different shifter. But I doubt the new one will be any different.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117095&d=1572818300

[Papa]

Is it the camera angle, or is the shifter installed backwards? :confused:

[delta0014]

Sort of. It’s a mid shift, the shifter I ordered bends slightly back like this.

[Papa]

Gotcha :o

[RodneyArcher]

I have the Gen 3 Coyote in my MKIV Roadster and am experiencing the same error codes that Edward B has. After speaking with Ford and getting nowhere fast, I have reached out to a custom dyno tuner. The one thing Ford told me is that a custom tune is mandatory. After to speaking with the tuner on the phone, he felt confident that he would be able to eliminate the code (eliminate the need for that information in the CPU) through tuning. Since I have the Speedhut sending unit connected and am receiving oil pressure readings I don't see a need for dual readings. Feel free to chime in on this...

The tuner is at SEMA this week so I have an appointment next Wednesday and will let you guys know the results.

[delta0014]

I have the Gen 3 Coyote in my MKIV Roadster and am experiencing the same error codes that Edward B has. After speaking with Ford and getting nowhere fast, I have reached out to a custom dyno tuner. The one thing Ford told me is that a custom tune is mandatory. After to speaking with the tuner on the phone, he felt confident that he would be able to eliminate the code (eliminate the need for that information in the CPU) through tuning. Since I have the Speedhut sending unit connected and am receiving oil pressure readings I don't see a need for dual readings. Feel free to chime in on this...

The tuner is at SEMA this week so I have an appointment next Wednesday and will let you guys know the results.

I would definitely be interested in hearing the results from that, as I'm sure many others would be too.
I am going to hook them both up and see what happens using a T fitting.

[edwardb]

I have the Gen 3 Coyote in my MKIV Roadster and am experiencing the same error codes that Edward B has. After speaking with Ford and getting nowhere fast, I have reached out to a custom dyno tuner. The one thing Ford told me is that a custom tune is mandatory. After to speaking with the tuner on the phone, he felt confident that he would be able to eliminate the code (eliminate the need for that information in the CPU) through tuning. Since I have the Speedhut sending unit connected and am receiving oil pressure readings I don't see a need for dual readings. Feel free to chime in on this...

The tuner is at SEMA this week so I have an appointment next Wednesday and will let you guys know the results.

I too will be interested. For the record, "mandatory custom tune" is the party line from Ford. They've said the same thing on the previous generation Coyote crate motors. They cite use of the non-stock cold air intake as the primary reason. They tried to tell me on my Gen 2 that I would damage the engine without a custom tune if I didn't use the stock air box. When I challenged that, and said the engine would throw codes before damaging itself, they agreed. But still stuck to the custom tune position. I did end up with a Lund custom tune on my Gen 2 and it improved driveability a lot. Pretty much expect the same with the Gen 3. It would seem the oil pressure sensors could be disabled on the Gen 3 like they are on the Gen 2. But I suspect their presence is doing a little more than only feeding gauges, like the Speedhut sensors. Likely the PCM is programmed to act a certain way with bad or unexpected readings. That would have to be taken into account as well. I'll especially be curious if the tuner you're talking to has experience with the Gen 3 Coyote crate. It's a different program than the Mustang. In the early days of the Gen 2, you could find tuners for Mustangs all day long. But not for the crate motor. Lund was one that stepped up.

[RodneyArcher]

Good information and I will definitely ask some questions before handing over money.

[delta0014]

Did you mount your headers before or after installing the engine? Coyote engine.
I was trying to mount them up, but the drivers side doesn’t even look close to fitting in without something moving...

[Jeff Kleiner]

Did you mount your headers before or after installing the engine? Coyote engine.
I was trying to mount them up, but the drivers side doesn’t even look close to fitting in without something moving...

They have to be installed after the engine is in the chassis.

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Can you use your hoist and lift it an inch or two to give yourself a little room to maneuver?

[delta0014]

Can you use your hoist and lift it an inch or two to give yourself a little room to maneuver?

Think I’m gonna have to do that, I don’t see how it’s possible to get it in without moving it

[edwardb]

Agree with Jeff, you can't put the headers in until the engine is in the chassis. Also agree it's really tight on the driver's (left) side. Other side isn't bad at all in comparison. One thing you can do that I've found helps a little. Once you have the engine in position in the chassis, leave it attached to the shop crane and remove the left motor mount. You can fit the header into place, and without the motor mount, you have better access to the hardest to reach header bolts from underneath. Then replace the motor mount and drop into the frame mounts. It's a little bit of a pain, and you'll have to decide if it's any easier than just dropping it in and then dealing with the header. But I've found it's slightly less frustrating.


Think I’m gonna have to do that, I don’t see how it’s possible to get it in without moving it

Believe it or not, it's possible. But agree very tight.

[delta0014]

Well, I think I’m gonna run no headers on the drivers side....:mad:
I’ve been working on it for 3 hours, tried jacking up one side of the engine. It’s just not close, side of the header hits the drivers foot box before it’s close to the bolts...

I give up for the day. I’m gonna have to jack up the entire engine.

Passenger side lines up, pretty difficult to push it in, think the holes are like a MM off but it’ll go on. Might take it off though when I jack up the whole engine.

[edwardb]

Well, I think I’m gonna run no headers on the drivers side....:mad:
I’ve been working on it for 3 hours, tried jacking up one side of the engine. It’s just not close, side of the header hits the drivers foot box before it’s close to the bolts...

I give up for the day. I’m gonna have to jack up the entire engine.

Passenger side lines up, pretty difficult to push it in, think the holes are like a MM off but it’ll go on. Might take it off though when I jack up the whole engine.

Sounds like maybe you're trying to use the engine with the stock exhaust header studs still in place? Don't recall that it's in the instructions anywhere, but I'd recommend you remove them. Agree especially on the driver's side, probably couldn't fit the header between the end of the studs and the footbox. I don't know for sure because I've never tried. It's hard enough without the studs. Some headers, like Gas-N, come with bolts. I know that GP Headers don't. Not sure about the rest. If you need them, the header bolts are M10 x 1.25mm. 25mm long works OK. 30mm works also and engages a little more.

[delta0014]

Sounds like maybe you're trying to use the engine with the stock exhaust header studs still in place? Don't recall that it's in the instructions anywhere, but I'd recommend you remove them. Agree especially on the driver's side, probably couldn't fit the header between the end of the studs and the footbox. I don't know for sure because I've never tried. It's hard enough without the studs. Some headers, like Gas-N, come with bolts. I know that GP Headers don't. Not sure about the rest. If you need them, the header bolts are M10 x 1.25mm. 25mm long works OK. 30mm works also and engages a little more.

Holy Christ did that just relieve a ton of frustration... Never knew the stock bolts came out. Didn’t see anything in the instructions about it. Pulled them out and the header slid right in. Still working those back bolts, really right working space but it’s at least doable...

Thanks

[RodneyArcher]

So as promised I wanted to share my results of getting my Gen 3 Coyote dyno tuned today.

First and foremost I wanted to address the known error code relating to the removal of the ford oil pressure sender and the installation of the Speedhut unit. It took all of 5 minutes for him to adjust the setting and remove the error code. So great news, you don't have to t-off the senders and connect both.

Second, and I'm not sure this is true with all Gen 3 crate motors, the engine was running extremely rich. Because of this I would caution running the motors for an extended period of time or you will be changing plugs. Fortunately mine looked pretty good but I will recheck once I get some real miles on her.

So after the basic adjustments were done we strapped her to the dyno. I was able to be in the driver's seat which I wasn't expecting but really enjoyed. We did a series of pulls in 1st gear up to 3000 rpm. he continued to dial in the air/fuel ratio and we graduated through 2nd and 3rd gears increasing the throttle pressure and RPM's. The final few pulls were in 3rd gear and WOT. It was loud as hell and a little unerving to do but also exciting. He made me wait until we were inside and he handed me the print out for the numbers. We didn't pull torque as that would require more time and tools. This things pulls hard enough so I didn't feel it was too important.

So my hope was that it would be 500HP......the final number.....495.1 at 123MPH in 3rd gear!!!!!! I was thrilled. He said once the motor has a few miles on it he thinks it will be right at 500. So of course the conversation turned to how much is enough. He said I should put a flex-fuel kit on it from Advanced Fuel Dynamics. This will allow any combintation of pump gas and E-85. He said they are seeing an additional 60+HP on straight E-85!!!
I think I will at least wait until I get the body on it and drive a few miles before doing that.

All in all it was a great day and I am one step closer to being on the road! Here are a couple of pics and a video....because without proof it didn't happen.:D

117518
117519
https://www.icloud.com/photos/#09hDEYprhU_UdVaudEbtd9kmg

[delta0014]

Awesome, thanks for the info.

[delta0014]

Threw the body back on the car to get the doors/trunk/hood to at least fit. The passenger side door, fit pretty good. The drivers door is a struggle to get it to line up with the body. The hood and trunk went pretty well too, just a lot of dust. Threw a tarp over the car to try to cut down on the dust inside of it.
Don't plan on doing much more of the body work, but wanted to be able to drive it for awhile in gel coat while I wait for my turn in the paint booth.

That's if I ever get the parts that are on backorder.....:( Started to get annoyed with the POL list, haven't received a single item from it and it's been over 6 weeks.
I guess I got the motor mounts, but that's because I bought them on my own.....


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117738&d=1574096061
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117739&d=1574096070

[Garage Guy]

Who is painting your car? Do you know? Do you have a date for paint yet?

[delta0014]

Who is painting your car? Do you know? Do you have a date for paint yet?

Plan on bringing it the Jeff Kleiner, but I think he’s booked up till summer. Don’t have a date, but whenever he’ll take it, I’ll bring it to him.

[delta0014]

Factory Five sent me some goodies today.
Got the 25th anniversary seats and side panels. They look nice, high end.

Also got the chrome exhaust pipes, radiator, driveshaft and transmission support bracket.

Still got some big items missing like the fuel tank, rear suspensions, steering components.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117905&d=1574452501
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117906&d=1574452560

[delta0014]

Put some of the new parts I got on...
Few questions and pics of the progress.

Instructions look like I'm suppose to mount the bracket to the F panel, but if I did, the overflow tank wouldn't fit since the bracket's base isn't wide enough. I ended up drilling and tapping a couple holes in the frame and mounted it to that. Will do the same for the lower bracket, unless anyone has any objections...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118041&d=1574701218

Finally got the bushings for the power steering rack so I was able to get that in. No issues with that. Still waiting
on the steering shaft.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118042&d=1574701228

Radiator showed up, put the fan on and hung it on with zip ties... Will mount it with the 5/8 offset.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118043&d=1574701237

The directions are kinda lacking, how exactly does the bottom of the radiator get supported???

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118036&d=1574701156

Got the exhaust ball fittings. They look like they'll be nice to get it straight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118040&d=1574701192

[delta0014]

Got the computer mount so I threw that on. Seems weird the center one can't lock down but looks like it's in there tight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118037&d=1574701165


Got this with the rest of the POL list. No clue what it is? Anyone? Couldn't see where it listed any kind of mount besides the computer mount.
*** Edit, this is the charcoal can mount. ***

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118038&d=1574701173

Got the transmission mount, driveshaft and adapter.
A mount for transmission went in no problem. Driveshaft seems good but the adapter is off.....
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118039&d=1574701183

With one bolt in, the rest of the holes do not fit a bolt, tried them all. Tried rotating it and nothing. The adapter is about an 1/4 inch smaller diameter then the center section... So it can swing a lot with a bolt in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118035&d=1574701126

This is as close as the holes will line up with another bolt in. You can clearly see it's off. Am I missing something???

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118034&d=1574701117

[Jeff Kleiner]

The directions are kinda lacking, how exactly does the bottom of the radiator get supported???

If you do it like Factory Five says it is supported by the nose aluminum. Other options are the lower radiator support from Breeze or a homemade version of the same.





Got the transmission mount, driveshaft and adapter.
A mount for transmission went in no problem. Driveshaft seems good but the adapter is off.....

With one bolt in, the rest of the holes do not fit a bolt, tried them all. Tried rotating it and nothing. The adapter is about an 1/4 inch smaller diameter then the center section... So it can swing a lot with a bolt in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118035&d=1574701126

This is as close as the holes will line up with another bolt in. You can clearly see it's off. Am I missing something???

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118034&d=1574701117

There is more than one center section flange (I think the difference is whether it came from a manaul or automatic car and I'm not sure which one is used on a new crate diff). FFR has adapters to both but obviously yours doesn't match the rear end you have so you'll need the other one.

Jeff

[delta0014]

E-mailed FFR about the drive shaft adapter. Haven't heard back but hopefully it's just an easy swap.

Ordered the breeze lower and upper mounts too, so I guess I'll put the cooling off for a bit.

[edwardb]

That center PCM connector locks into place with the lever at the center. Yours looks OK. It shouldn't have been able to push into place unless the lever was off to the side, then moving it to the center locks it into place. The lever does end up at a different location than the end ones, but it should be locked. This is my Gen 3 PCM in my Coupe build. Heavily cropped so it's a little grainy, but you get the idea.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/3/57645638-7bc7-44e7-a918-d91cf6546805-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/57645638-7bc7-44e7-a918-d91cf6546805)

[delta0014]

Thanks
Good to know.

FFR did say they are going to send me out the correct driveshaft adapter too.

[toadster]

recently talked with Mike Forte and he said there's a newer IRS model - so you may have found the different driveshaft adapter issue... where did you get your IRS setup? from FFR? or other?

[delta0014]

I got it from FFR.

[Garage Guy]

The aluminum plate with a square hole in it and the 3 screw holes is to Mount Your Vapor canister

[Garage Guy]

I used the Breezs lower radiator mount. I really liked it EZ to install and solid you might want to check it out . I don't know if anyone uses the factory 5 overflow with the coyote but you might want to check edwardb on that one, he knows more than me when it comes to coyotes. Its just what I have seen in the past. You might want to look at the fan shroud from breezs too.

[PeteMeindl]

Put some of the new parts I got on...
Few questions and pics of the progress.

Instructions look like I'm suppose to mount the bracket to the F panel, but if I did, the overflow tank wouldn't fit since the bracket's base isn't wide enough. I ended up drilling and tapping a couple holes in the frame and mounted it to that. Will do the same for the lower bracket, unless anyone has any objections...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118041&d=1574701218



Not sure if this is helpful but here's a picture of how we installed the overflow tank in the F panel. we just used a couple spacers to give it a little more clearance to get around the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118086&d=1574774052

Keep up the great work!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Instructions look like I'm suppose to mount the bracket to the F panel, but if I did, the overflow tank wouldn't fit since the bracket's base isn't wide enough. I ended up drilling and tapping a couple holes in the frame and mounted it to that. Will do the same for the lower bracket, unless anyone has any objections...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118041&d=1574701218

That location won't work---it's too high and the hood strut will hit it. Install the hinges and you'll see.

I notice that you do not have a fan shroud. Although the Coyote isn't hard to cool I still highly recommend that you consider using one. I've used the one that Breeze offers on every car I've built. It fits, works well and is reasonably priced.

Jeff

[delta0014]

Thanks, was hoping someone would be able to say whether it would work or not. Guess I'll mount it lower and put some spacers on it... Or maybe ill drill and tap it on the lower frame bar and use spacers for the top one.

Ordered a bunch of stuff from Breeze, think I'll put the upper and lower radiator mount, fan shroud and radiator cowl cover.
Ordered their seat frames too. Says it fits the "classic seats". I'm hoping the 25th anniversary seats are the same?

[Garage Guy]

They are the same seat frame just the covers are different they will fit fine.

[delta0014]

Was pleasantly surprised by how fast Breeze shipped my parts I ordered. Think I had them 3 days after ordering.

Seat mounts, won't install them for awhile, but they look like a nice product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118497&d=1575483865

FFR sent me the correct drive shaft adapter too, got it pretty quick. Still need to put some spacers in and line it up straight. Might have to cut the cross bar by the shifter. Once i move it straight, it gets really close. Has anyone not had to cut it with a mid shift?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118496&d=1575483849

It is starting to get really crowded in the engine bay, put the radiator on and was running the hoses, I plan on cutting and combining these two hoses, but it is tight... Probably run the steering line under it. Still need to move the tank.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118499&d=1575483884

Lower radiator support from Breeze... Says the radiator is suppose to be at 51 degrees. Think it's close? I used a level laser to mount it. Is the 51 degrees for the body fitting?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118500&d=1575483891

Plan on using this tube on the lower radiator, they sent a rubber tube but it doesn't line up very good. It is tight, looks like the steering shaft will be routed right next to it. Don't have the steering shaft yet, so can't see. Already had to move the brake line since I had too big of a bend to get it attached.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118498&d=1575483874

[edwardb]

Was pleasantly surprised by how fast Breeze shipped my parts I ordered. Think I had them 3 days after ordering.
Yup, that’s what Mark at Breeze does. Probably the best forum vendor to work with IMO.


Still need to put some spacers in and line it up straight. Might have to cut the cross bar by the shifter. Once I move it straight, it gets really close. Has anyone not had to cut it with a mid shift?
Assume by “straight” you mean a straight line between the end of the transmission and the differential? If so, “straight” isn’t necessarily the goal. Search on the forum for “pinion angle” and you’ll get lots of discussions and how to check it. I doubt you’ll have to cut anything for up/down clearance. Midshift or not. Fore/aft maybe if your shifter is running into something. But not up/down.


Lower radiator support from Breeze... Says the radiator is suppose to be at 51 degrees. Think it's close? I used a level laser to mount it. Is the 51 degrees for the body fitting?
Yes, 51 degrees is roughly the angle of the filler pieces that FF provides for in front of the radiator to the body.

[GTBradley]

This is where I mounted mine, it fits fine without spacers. The cap is close to the frame but no issue.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105484&d=1554952944

[delta0014]

Questions, Questions, Questions.....


Wiring is probably the one area i'm most afraid I'm going to screw something up.. Besides hooking up headlights/taillights stuff and the gauges (no dash yet), these are the only things left on wiring.
Any help is appreciated, as I'm kinda lost on these items.

Here's the wires suppose to attach to the O2 sensors on the headers. Obviously they both can't hook up without doing something, I was going to peel them apart and stretch it over to both. But when I took the wires out of the wire tubing, the red wires have a 4 into 1 split.... How do I go about hooking up both sides of the O2 sensors???

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118649&d=1575828905



Next is to connect the tach wires so the gauges will work. Says to pull the purple wire from the sending harness, which I assume is the big wire bundle at the top of this pic? And attach to #4 cylinder. Says to attach it to the blue/red wire, but the only wires on the #4cylinder are purple and green/yellow. I assume it's the green/yellow I attach it to???
And the wire in the sending harness, I just cut that and run it to the cylinder? What happens with the rest of it?


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118647&d=1575828886

Now these wires.
Says take the blue EFI wire and attach to the blue starter wire.
Attach the orange EFI to the green ignition trigger wire.


So I’ll attach those and just cap off the other 3?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118646&d=1575828877

Sorry for all the dumb questions but I've been staring at the directions, my car and the forums for too long...

[edwardb]

Here's the wires supposed to attach to the O2 sensors on the headers. Obviously, they both can't hook up without doing something, I was going to peel them apart and stretch it over to both. But when I took the wires out of the wire tubing, the red wires have a 4 into 1 split.... How do I go about hooking up both sides of the O2 sensors???

It's strongly recommended to not modify, extend, whatever, the O2 sensor wires. Mentioned in the Ford instructions plus have heard from others. What many have done, and I’d recommend, is use extensions to get the C1571 and C1572 upstream sensors connected. Caspers Electronics is a brand many recommend. Available through multiple sources, including Summit, Jegs, etc. and also direct. Assume you saw the other two (downstream connectors) aren’t used.


Next is to connect the tach wires so the gauges will work. Says to pull the purple wire from the sending harness, which I assume is the big wire bundle at the top of this pic? And attach to #4 cylinder. Says to attach it to the blue/red wire, but the only wires on the #4cylinder are purple and green/yellow. I assume it's the green/yellow I attach it to???
And the wire in the sending harness, I just cut that and run it to the cylinder? What happens with the rest of it?

Important to differentiate wires from the Ron Francis harness (the one that came with your kit) and the Coyote controls pack harness (the one that came with your Coyote engine).

The “purple wire from the sending harness” is the purple coil-tach wire from your Ron Francis harness. Not from the large bundle you pictured. But is pictured later. The other end of that wire is attached to the tach wire on your gauge through the dash harness. The engine side goes to one of the coil on plug trigger wires, as the instructions describe. It doesn’t matter which cylinder you use. #4 is OK, but so is any other. Whatever is most convenient for your wiring layout. All the coil on plug connections have two wires. One is the same color for all. The other is a unique color for all. You want the one that’s unique.


Now these wires.
Says take the blue EFI wire and attach to the blue starter wire.
Attach the orange EFI to the green ignition trigger wire.
So I’ll attach those and just cap off the other 3?

Again, make sure to differentiate Ron Francis vs. Coyote wires.

blue EFI wire (RF harness) to the blue starter wire (Coyote pigtail Starter Motor Request (SMR)) wire.
orange EFI (RF harness) to the green ignition trigger wire (Coyote pigtail ignition trigger) wire.

The remaining wires are the speed control wires, which you won’t use if you have the GPS gauges. The other is the tach wire mentioned earlier.

You had another question about a green fuel pump wire in the post previously, which apparently you edited out. Hopefully you found the answer. The green wire in that case was the Coyote pigtail fuel pump relay wire. That gets tapped into the fuel pump circuit in the Ron Francis fuse box you pictured previously.

[delta0014]

Thanks!

I will order the extension, that looks to be an easy solution.

Rest makes sense too now that you explained. Took a picture of the dang wire and still didn’t connect the dots....

[toadster]

surprised the extension doesn't come as part of the kit...

[delta0014]

surprised the extension doesn't come as part of the kit...

Yea, me too. Should of been included in the Coyote option since there was no chance of it reaching. Ordered one for $33 though, so not a huge deal if it works.

[edwardb]

Yea, me too. Should of been included in the Coyote option since there was no chance of it reaching. Ordered one for $33 though, so not a huge deal if it works.

The wiring harness, including the O2 sensor cables, are quite different between the Gen 2 Coyote and the Gen 3. Plus where you mount the Coyote components (there are multiple possibilities) will affect the O2 sensor connections. So one size doesn't fit all, and a reason for not including.

[nelsond003]

Love this thread!!!!!! Taking lots of notes so I don't ask the same questions. This forum is probably one of the nicest Ive been on. Really knowledgeable and professional.

[toadster]

Love this thread!!!!!! Taking lots of notes so I don't ask the same questions. This forum is probably one of the nicest Ive been on. Really knowledgeable and professional.

agreed, if it would only be online day to day - the site has been ultra flakey lately!

[delta0014]

Ordered a several cans of car touch up paint, just to start looking at colors. Might order a few more colors too.
Thinking of doing black with some type of grey/silver/matte black stripes.... But that might change.

Got a box of stuff from FFR today too. Was hoping to get my fuel tank, but no luck. Got steering shafts/joints and passenger roll bar.
POL list is getting smaller, but still has some major things on it (Fuel tank, Rear IRS parts, Shocks, Dash)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119009&d=1576529061

[toadster]

wicked colors!!

[wareaglescott]

Green!!

[delta0014]

Green!!

Ha, I was looking at doing some kind of an accent color.. But I think i'm gonna pass on that. Didn't like that green anyways.

[delta0014]

Kinda nice to see the steering wheel on it now. The steering shaft showed up a few days ago, so I was able to get that all done.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119259&d=1576878716

The lower radiator hose was too close I thought to the pulley's and steering shaft, I so bought a 90 degree hose that seems to work well to keep it away from that stuff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119262&d=1576879156

Had to cut the cross bar to get the transmission to bolt up to the A frame with the mid-shift location. I'll brace it on the back side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119256&d=1576878691

I have this mess of wires still. I don't believe I need them, there's 3 ground wires, was gonna hook those up to the frame for the heck of it and cap off the rest....?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119257&d=1576878699

Not sure about the cooling fan hookup. This wire is really short, is this the right one to hook up to the cooling fan? And ground the other side...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119258&d=1576878707

[Papa]

The electric choke wire is a handy wire to keep around for a switched 12v accessory.

[AC Bill]

The lower radiator hose was too close I thought to the pulley's and steering shaft, I so bought a 90 degree hose that seems to work well to keep it away from that stuff.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119262&d=1576879156

The bottom hose looks fine, Hopefully you roughed up the stainless flex hose, to create a better surface for the rubber hose to grip, under the clamp. Some builders put a small stainless screw through the stainless hose, at that point, so the head of the screw would act as a kind of a lip, to help prevent the rubber hose from slipping.

Your upper hose set up is not ideal, in my personal opinion. I'd have been tempted to use a single rubber hose from the engine, directly to the T-filler, rather then the stainless flex hose, and the FFR hose connector, as shown. Did you use that connector because of a step in size? If so, you can actually get a rubber hose that has that step. This avoids one less clamp, and potential for a leak, and may look a little tidier as well.
If your going to keep it as shown, again, rough up the stainless hose at either end, to help prevent slipping under the clamps. A file works well for this.

Hint-If using those chrome hose clamp covers, try to install them so the clamp screws are on the underside.:)

[MSumners]

I just posted the same question about the coil, tach, speedo etc. wires. I suppose I have my answer. Thanks. Build is looking great.

[delta0014]

I just posted the same question about the coil, tach, speedo etc. wires. I suppose I have my answer. Thanks. Build is looking great.

Thanks, hopefully my questions will help someone.
Wiring is not my favorite part. Most of it is labeled pretty well, but the stuff that isn’t, I’m kinda lost on.

[delta0014]

Havn't touched the car in a few weeks, FFR said it'd be a couple more weeks before I see any additional parts...:(

But I did get a cool keychain from them today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120059&d=1578188456

[delta0014]

Received my Upper and Lower control arms for the rear IRS. Was able to get them and the brakes on.
Just need to finish torquing it all down and run the brake / e-brake cables.

Just waiting on the shocks, fuel tank and dash now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120522&d=1578942079

[toadster]

looks great! can't believe you're still waiting on shocks, fuel tank and dash!!!

fortunately - I got an aftermarket tank so I won't be waiting for that... but shocks and dash? I thought the dash was custom for the 25th cars? You'd think 25 of them were already made?

[delta0014]

This might be obvious to some... But the rear sway bar bracket attaches to the toe arm and lower control arm bolts. So make sure you put it on while you're attaching all the rear suspension. I put the rear suspension all on, tightened it down, then realized I had to take it apart to get the brackets on... Not the most accessible bolt locations either if you don't have a lift.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120705&d=1579111259

[toadster]

This might be obvious to some... But the rear sway bar bracket attaches to the toe arm and lower control arm bolts. So make sure you put it on while you're attaching all the rear suspension. I put the rear suspension all on, tightened it down, then realized I had to take it apart to get the brackets on... Not the most accessible bolt locations either if you don't have a lift.


I've heard this a few times now - good to note this so you're not backtracking!

[delta0014]

The rear sway bar instructions aren't in the manual, have to download them separately from factory five's website, so it's pretty easy to miss.

[delta0014]

Shocks showed up yesterday. They look pretty nice. Will be nice to finally have the suspension all done.

Couple questions. The springs show #400 and #500 on them, any idea which ones go on the front and rear? I looked through the parts list and directions and none specify. The parts list both say front coil over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121397&d=1580054984

[Papa]

The larger (500 lb.) springs go on the front. Look at your inventory sheets and they will list the front and rear springs with their spring rates.

[delta0014]

The larger (500 lb.) springs go on the front. Look at your inventory sheets and they will list the front and read springs with their spring rates.

Thanks, the parts list was the first thing I looked at. It lists both springs separately but says "front" for both part numbers.

[edwardb]

Shocks showed up yesterday. They look pretty nice. Will be nice to finally have the suspension all done.

Couple questions. The springs show #400 and #500 on them, any idea which ones go on the front and rear? I looked through the parts list and directions and none specify. The parts list both say front coil over.

Build manual says 500# on the front. IRS instructions say 400# for the IRS. Yes, the double adjustable shocks have to be mounted with the body down. Don't recall it mentioned in the Factory Five documentation. Very likely is. But Koni instructions from their website, when I went there to get instructions on how to set them, describes the internal valving in those shocks requires them to be mounted that way. Said won't function properly if mounted upside down.

[delta0014]

It's a roller.. Brakes still need a little adjustment, but it's nice to be able to roll it out of the garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121768&d=1580491464

[RodneyArcher]

Looks Great!!!

[toadster]

It's a roller.. Brakes still need a little adjustment, but it's nice to be able to roll it out of the garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121768&d=1580491464

wow that's great! I hope to be as quick as you! you're rollin at 5-6 months!

[ydousurf]

Awesome! You're making very quick work on your build, impressive! I'm still going through inventory...

Dj

[delta0014]

So, bleeding the brakes...

I've never actually done it before. I understand the concept but the more I read, I'm not too confident in doing this.

Bench bleeding the master cylinder. What I read is that it has a bleed screw on it that you run a tube to the reservoir..
What exactly do I attach a hose too??? I don't see any bleed screws on it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121793&d=1580504512

And the balance bar.. How do I adjust the long screw rod so the clevis is closer together? They are pretty far apart. I've loosened the top nut on the clevis and the one on the bottom of the picture on the screw rod. I can turn the rod but it doesn't seem to do anything. I don't see in the instructions where it says how to do it... Just says how far apart they should be.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121794&d=1580504525

And the rear calipers have 4 bleed nipples, 2 up and 2 down. Do I bleed all four? Just the top?

[Papa]

Bench bleeding the masters:

1. Make a couple of pieces of tubing with a flared fittings on one end (the tubing needs to be long enough to thread onto the MC where your hard lines are currently attached and have the other end dump into the reservoir(s)).
2. Disconnect your hard lines from the MCs and attach the tubes you just made.
3. Leave the hoses attached as you have them.
4. Fill the reservoir(s) with fluid.
5. Slowly pump the brake pedal until no bubbles are seen coming out of the ends of the tubes that are dumping back into the reservoir.
6. One at a time, quickly disconnect each tube from the MC and reattach your hard lines. Do them one at a time.
Do not pump the pedal again once the MCs have been bled until after you've pressure bled the calipers or are ready to pump bleed each caliper the old fashioned way. Make sure the reservoir never runs dry during the process.

One the Wilwoods, bleed the bottom first, and then the top. Again, never let the reservoir run dry or your will have to start all over.

On the balance bar, if you want/need to move the clevises, you have to remove the push rod from the clevis first and then rotate the clevis in the proper direction while holding the pivot rod so that it doesn't spin. Just from the picture, it doesn't appear that yours need to move. Could be the angle. You want them to be pretty much a straight line to the MCs so that the rods are not at an angle from the MCs to the clevises.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JKTn6t6aoU

[edwardb]

Papa beat me... Looks like we disagree on how the Wilwoods are bled though. Doesn't hurt to do the bottom ones I guess. But the top ones are where the air is going to go. :p


So, bleeding the brakes...
I've never actually done it before. I understand the concept but the more I read, I'm not too confident in doing this.
Bench bleeding the master cylinder. What I read is that it has a bleed screw on it that you run a tube to the reservoir..
What exactly do I attach a hose too??? I don't see any bleed screws on it.
No bleed screws on the MC’s. You remove the brake line and put a temporary line from there into the top of the reservoir. Pump the brakes until fluid is fully flowing, then replace the brake line.


And the balance bar.. How do I adjust the long screw rod so the clevis is closer together? They are pretty far apart. I've loosened the top nut on the clevis and the one on the bottom of the picture on the screw rod. I can turn the rod but it doesn't seem to do anything. I don't see in the instructions where it says how to do it... Just says how far apart they should be.

The instructions give the spacing required. Two sides together in the .20 - .25 range. To adjust, you need to take one of the MC’s off the clevis and turn the clevis independent of the other. Turning the balance bar will leave your spacing intact, but move the bearing in the middle, affecting the bias. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf


And the rear calipers have 4 bleed nipples, 2 up and 2 down. Do I bleed all four? Just the top?

Only the top ones. The calipers have bleeders on both sides so they can be mounted either way. But only bleed from the tops ones as installed. Bleed the outboard bleed screw first, then the inboard.

[delta0014]

Thanks guys, you rock.

[Papa]

Papa beat me... Looks like we disagree on how the Wilwoods are bled though. Doesn't hurt to do the bottom ones I guess. But the top ones are where the air is going to go. :p


No bleed screws on the MC’s. You remove the brake line and put a temporary line from there into the top of the reservoir. Pump the brakes until fluid is fully flowing, then replace the brake line.



The instructions give the spacing required. Two sides together in the .20 - .25 range. To adjust, you need to take one of the MC’s off the clevis and turn the clevis independent of the other. Turning the balance bar will leave your spacing intact, but move the bearing in the middle, affecting the bias. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf



Only the top ones. The calipers have bleeders on both sides so they can be mounted either way. But only bleed from the tops ones as installed. Bleed the outboard bleed screw first, then the inboard.

Paul -- We don't really disagree. I only did the tops on mine and got perfect results the first time. I only mentioned the bottoms as some have had air trapped. If things are "normal", bleeding the tops only will get-er done. BTW, how many times have we answered this question now? :p

Dave

[edwardb]

Paul -- We don't really disagree. I only did the tops on mine and got perfect results the first time. I only mentioned the bottoms as some have had air trapped. If things are "normal", bleeding the tops only will get-er done. BTW, how many times have we answered this question now? :p

Dave

A lot...

[delta0014]

Brakes are bled and feel good.
Got the E-brake cables hooked up today. Was missing the adapter that connects the cable to the caliper, FFR was nice enough to send them to me, even though I'm way past the inventory cut off. It's tight, handle only does about 2-3 clicks before it's tight.
Seats are mounted too on the Breeze seat mount. I'm waiting to do the carpet and other interior stuff until it's running.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122140&d=1581108944

It's been 6 months since I ordered the car and 4 months since delivery. Still don't have the fuel tank or dash, although they are saying I should get that next week...
There's a few minor things I've been putting off.
Questions...
** Sorry kinda long ** But it's all I have left to do besides hooking up the gauges and fuel tank once the rest arrives next week.
----
There's a white plug in this picture. What is it for?
And the yellow taped, vacuum port I believe, it looks like i'm suppose to hook that up to a port in the intake. But there isn't anything on the spectre intake to attach it to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122137&d=1581108908

Most of these ports I just capped per the instructions that I could see. No heater/AC.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122136&d=1581108900

These two wires that i'm suppose to cut since I believe the coyote controls them. When I cut them, do I just leave them? Cap them? Remove the wires from the fuse panel?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122142&d=1581109230
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122141&d=1581109221

And for the fan control, I believe this orange wire is suppose to attach to the cooling fan, which it's way to short to reach.
Instructions say "run the harness with the orange fan wire forward to the fan and connect to the blue wire."
"Ground the black wire"
I'm a little lost on how it goes together. Do I just run a wire between the short orange wire and splice it onto the blue wire and connect the blue wire on the cooling fan connection? Or???
Ground the black wire from the second picture? Or the one on the connection? Or just plug the black ground wire into the connection?
And on the diagram that shows cutting the fan relay control wire, it says to ground one of the thermostat green wires. I was just gonna ground the Fan Thermo SW wire in the picture below?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122139&d=1581108930
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122138&d=1581108921

[edwardb]

Responses:

- white plug in the picture for the Gen 3 Coyote doesn't have anything to plug into. Just leave as is.

- yellow taped port is the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) for the LH cylinder bank. Yes, it needs to hook up to your intake. And no, the Spectre intake doesn't have the connection. You need to add it.

- for your intake connections, mostly OK. You're missing powering the CMCV circuit. I documented here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Last-Details-Gen-3-Oil-Pressure&p=351623&viewfull=1#post351623. Also, with no heater, you're supposed to have a bypass hose between the two heater ports with a restrictor inside. If you bought the Coyote completion kit, it includes the parts necessary for the bypass.

- for all your wiring questions, looks like you're using the wrong wiring instructions. That's the standard Ron Francis harness manual, right? You need to use the specific Factory Five Coyote installation instructions. It gives the exact instructions. Example: For the cooling fan, you don't use any of the RF circuits or relays. You take the orange Coyote fan wire directly to the positive lead of the cooling fan. Ground the other side, and you're done.

[delta0014]

Here's what I was referencing with the orange cable. It's from the Coyote instructions. So just add some wire to make it long enough and a connector at the end and plug it into the blue side. Run any wire to a ground or do I need to use that ground wire in the previous pics? Do I not use those wires for anything in that previous pic? (blue cooling fan, green thermo, black ground)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122154&d=1581113696
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122152&d=1581113659

And I guess the coyote instructions doesn't say anything about cutting this red wire, so don't cut it? It says to cut it to make the computer control it, I was assuming that was the Coyote computer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122153&d=1581113672


I appreciate your responses.

[edwardb]

Right. Connect the Coyote cooling fan wire to the blue wire on the cooling fan. You'll need to extend the wire as discussed. The black ground wire on the fan motor can go to any existing ground wire (e.g. in the RF front harness, which is what I do) or you can clean a spot on the chassis and attach it directly in the area of the cooling fan. The RF blue cooling fan and green thermo are not used. You could use the black ground but doesn't have to be that specific one. Ground is ground wherever. You don't need to cut anything on the RF cooling fan panel. Wired direct that circuit isn't used for the cooling fan. 100% controlled and powered by the Coyote system.

[delta0014]

Awesome, thanks.

[delta0014]

Carbon fiber dashboard has arrived. It looks really nice.
Fedex says the fuel tank will be here tomorrow and that will be the last of the POL parts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122855&d=1582227287

[jiriza84641]

looks great man.

[delta0014]

Still can’t figure out the fuel pump wiring. The green wire is getting no power. The fuel pump works if I put the wires I was suppose to cut back together. I replaced the relay just in case but no help...

[edwardb]

Still can’t figure out the fuel pump wiring. The green wire is getting no power. The fuel pump works if I put the wires I was suppose to cut back together. I replaced the relay just in case but no help...

Responded in your separate thread with this question. Maybe it's just semantics, but the Coyote green fuel pump wire doesn't "get power." It outputs +12V from the fuel pump when commanded by the PCM. So when you turn the key on, you should be able to measure +12V on that wire. If there's no voltage on the wire, the PCM isn't commanding it. Or a fuse in the PDB as I mentioned.

[delta0014]

So, is there a way to know if it’s the computer?

I hooked the wires up so the fuel pump runs continuously and tried turning it over. Never fired once.

[delta0014]

I checked every single fuse, none were bad.

[toadster]

Shocks showed up yesterday. They look pretty nice. Will be nice to finally have the suspension all done.

Couple questions. The springs show #400 and #500 on them, any idea which ones go on the front and rear? I looked through the parts list and directions and none specify. The parts list both say front coil over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121397&d=1580054984

so weird I got my springs, and everything else but the shock bodies :rolleyes:

[delta0014]

So, no idea exactly how I got it to work. After talking to the Ford Tech, he suggested sending in the computer to get looked at.
As a last ditch effort I went through and disconnected everything on the coyote wiring, computer, battery, grounds and re-connected everything one last time. Michael Everson commented on Facebook that the first start took a long crank to get it going. After I connected everything back up, still wasn't hearing the fuel pump but I cranked it over for what seemed like a long time. And it finally fired. I've started it a few times and starts good. I got it running last night, this morning it cranked over longer then I think it should but I do hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on now.
Cooling fan works, oil psi, water temp, volts, gas gauge work but the Oil temp gauge didn't seem to be working.
Small coolant leak where I put the oil psi/water temp sensors in the engine but otherwise everything seemed good.


https://youtu.be/L9aTFEJkSEE

[ydousurf]

Awesome! Nice work in getting to the (FSS - First Start Stage) this quickly. c[CHEERS!] - Here's to the final push to get your dream on the road!

Dj

[PeteMeindl]

Nice! That's great news - definitely one of the best feelings of the build to get that first start! :)

[Papa]

Congrats! Glad to hear she's running.

[edwardb]

Strange. But good. These things do go through a learning process. Hard to imagine that it has to learn basic stuff like "turn the fuel pump and injectors on." :p Not going to argue with success. But keep an eye on it. Both my Coyote's (Gen 2 and Gen 3) start almost instantly. Very little cranking required.

[delta0014]

Took the car out around the block today. Everything felt good, drove good. Only got up to second gear though. Gave the kids a ride, they loved it.

Interior is almost done. Still a little more carpet and finish the glovebox. But I like it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123704&d=1583535931
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123705&d=1583536086

[delta0014]

The car is still taking a long time to start for the first start of the day.
After the first start, it starts pretty good again.

Guessing something with the fuel pump, but once it's running it runs great.

[AC Bill]

What temp. range does your gauge start to read at?
Oil temps take a long time to register on the gauge, and that's while out cruising around, not just idling in the driveway. It probably works fine, you just haven't got it hot enough yet.

[delta0014]

What temp. range does your gauge start to read at?
Oil temps take a long time to register on the gauge, and that's while out cruising around, not just idling in the driveway. It probably works fine, you just haven't got it hot enough yet.

I'm actually gonna remove the Oil temp gauge and order a clock that matches. I really dont need a oil temp gauge.

[jiriza84641]

I'm actually gonna remove the Oil temp gauge and order a clock that matches. I really dont need a oil temp gauge.

Where did you get the carbon fiber dash?

[toadster]

Where did you get the carbon fiber dash?

comes with the 25th anniversary car :)

[delta0014]

Where did you get the carbon fiber dash?

Yes, the carbon fiber dash and the seats were part of the 25th anniversary edition. I'd be surprised if FFR didn't offer the carbon fiber dash in the future as an upgrade. I think it looks great.