Wilwood Remote Bias Adjuster in Gen 3 Coupe

[Logan]

Wilwood Pedal Assembly (PN: 340-11299) as supplied by FFR in a Gen 3 Coupe. I want to add the Wilwood Remote Bias Adjuster (PN: 340-4990) which is made for this type of pedal assembly with the balance bar arrangement.

The cable included with the Remote Bias Adjuster connects to one end of the balance bar, and when the knob at the other end (in the cockpit) is turned, the balance bar can be adjusted to bias the brakes towards the front or rear. My issue is that there is virtually zero room to connect the cable to the balance bar on the right side (closest to the engine) because there is framework/steel mounting flanges for the pedal assembly barely a fingers width from the end of the balance bar on that side. Enter the Tilton 90° adapter made for this specific purpose. In addition to costing twice what the whole Wilwood Remote Bias Adjuster Kit costa just for the adapter, there’s no room for even its compact size.

Options:

1. Mount the remote cable to the left side of the balance bar. I haven’t laid it out like this, but I imagine this would invert the knob control (turning knob left adds front bias when connected to the RH side of balance bar, but turning knob left adds rear bias when connected to the LH side of the balance bar).

2. Cut away minimum required steel plate to fit the Tilton 90° adapter onto the right side of the balance bar.

3. _____?

Has anyone got any information or pictures relating to the install of this remote bias adjuster in a Coupe, or possibly even MK4 Roadster? Link below. TIA

https://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalProd?itemno=340-4990

[CraigS]

My old roadster is a way different setup but I ran the cable to the left side of the adjuster. I made up a label and put it on the knob w/ clear laminating material. You could swap MC locations and then your label would work.

[lance corsi]

My wildwood remote adjuster came with two stickers. One for rh twist toward front bias, the other opposite. I do agree that the right angle coupler is too pricey, but I bought one anyway. Seems to be a quality piece if that’s any consolation.

[Logan]

Lance - did you mount your cable to the RH or LH side of the balance-bar in the pedal box? Thanks for the upvote on the Tilton 90° adapter being quality. Might help ease the pain a little if I end up having to purchase one.

[lance corsi]

Logan, I mounted mine on the right side. I have the opposite side blocked by structure. Don’t forget to secure the threaded coupler with a jam nut. I think one comes with the angle drive. May be good to use loctite too.

[lance corsi]

Btw, if you’re using the wildwood fluid reservoirs, don’t be surprised by leaks. It’s the goofiest setup for a simple fluid reservoir.

[Logan]

Lance - since my RH side is blocked by structure, I might try the LH side first (and fix the sticker on the knob). If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to use the Tilton 90° adapter on the RH side, cutting away some steel for clearance, and adding a jam nut + blue Loctite.

I’ll be using the Tilton 3-chamber reservoir mounted somewhere on the firewall I expect, with hoses passing into the footbox and connecting to each master-cylinder individually. Hopefully a leak-free setup.

[lance corsi]

Funny you say that...I just bought one for myself! The Tilton 3-in-one plastic unit with push-on barbs on bottom. You can visually inspect the fluid levels without opening the top cap. Unfortunately I had previously bought 3 of the polished stainless FFR units before I decided that checking the fluid levels was going to be problematic. They’re pretty tho. I suppose someone on the forum might like to dress up his show car with them. I’ll list them along with some other goodies after I’m finished with my build.

[Dave Tabor]

Here's the Wilwood bias adjuster on my Gen III Coupe.

Works just fine. The blue knob is on the slanted transmission tunnel panel - lower left.

You can also see my Tilton reservoir, lol.

About the Wilwood adjuster- in case it's not clear from the photos- they get rotated- my cable is routed from the footbox into the engine compartment. I used a rubber grommet through which the cable housing passes.

Note: depending on your master cylinder/brake caliper setup- and which one (front or rear) is mounted left or right, the balance bar is going pivot as it travels- it may start out 'diagonal' with no pedal pressure and end up past even with hard pressure- this means because the balance cable is mounted to the threaded end of the balance bar it is going to need an 'oval' or oversize hole to pass through the panel.

Dave
T65 Gen III #17

[Logan]

Thanks for the pics and info Dave! With a Coyote, I don't know if I have the open space to poke the cable right through the footbox wall into the engine bay like you have done. The valve cover ends up siting pretty tight/close to the footbox from what I have seen (my engine isn't in yet). I will keep this in mind as I proceed though.

Honestly, at the moment it seems the only way to make this work is the Tilton 90° adapter on the LH side of the balance bar, and route it to the dash from there. I'll stop trying to mentally plan it to death and just make it work when the time comes.

[Erik W. Treves]

if you wait 2 months you can come over and war game it with me on mine :)

[Logan]

Deal!! :D

Hopefully I’ll have tinkered with mine by then anyway.

[Rsnake]

Hello Logan,
Did you ever get the remote adjuster installed. I am at that stage now and cannot see how it will work with the structure on the right of the balance bar system. Hoping you figured something out.

[Logan]

Hello Logan,
Did you ever get the remote adjuster installed. I am at that stage now and cannot see how it will work with the structure on the right of the balance bar system. Hoping you figured something out.

I ended up disassembling the balance bar assembly, shortening the threaded shaft length to accommodate the Tilton 90° remote adjuster mechanism. I installed the adapter on the left side of the balance bar. It is VERY close to the clutch pivot, to the point that it can contact it if the adjustment range is too far to the left. Something to beware of. I haven’t dialed mine in yet, but I think there is a way to make it work, even if just barely.

Next time I will just go with a complete floor-mount pedal setup like I wanted. Put the pedals on sliders and it would also solve the seat issue. Could mount the seat fixed into one position and adjust driver height by moving the pedals. But that’s a whole different can of worms you didn’t ask about!

Good luck with the remote adjuster install. Post a picture and description of how you solve yours once you complete it.

[Rsnake]

Thanks for the reply Logan. I am deciding to not use it as you are correct, either way doesn't allow much adjustment before it runs into something. Plus that area is already a congested mess and this will make it even worse.