T5 Removal

[MikeHolt]

Does anyone have the step by step process to remove the transmission from a MKII (FFR3817)without pulling the engine?

My transmission is making a racket. Pretty sure it’s finally about to give up the ghost.

I really don’t want to pull the whole assembly (been there!).

TIA!

Mike

[Murd]

I can’t speak to the mk2 but I did it in my mk4 last fall. Getting at all the bolts wasn’t easy but was doable, unfortunately I spent about two hours wrestling it out once it was unbolted. Not much room, had to jack back end of engine to get all the angles right to finally get it out.
I pulled the engine to put it back in, I’d never bother doing it again, I would just pull the whole business as I ended up having to do it anyway.

Good luck.

[Mick40]

I just did this today and what a nightmare. There is zero room to remove the transmission and Bellhousing in one piece. Halfway out I decided to separate the bellhousing from the trans, it was the only way. This was after fighting it for quite some time. Raising the motor, removing the transmission cover, nothing worked. I know others have said they were able to make this happen but, I was not. I was fortunate to do this task with the car on a lift. There is no way I would tackle this without that option. If I ever have to do it again I'm pulling the motor. It took 6 hours to remove and replace and I still have some buttoning up to do. I also had a helper. For those that have done this your extremely talented. Oh, and let me add that I struggled to get the trans seated in the pilot bearing. Add another 1.5 hours to that nightmare I almost gave up.

The bottom line it's doable but it was not an easy task for me at least. My car is a MK3.

Good Luck!
Mick

[weendoggy]

The T5 can be removed fairly easy in a MKII. After all the connections, wires, shifter (at trans), driveshaft, etc. are out of the way remove the trans mount completely, raise and support the engine (you may need to raise/lower it) with a jack on the oil pan with a block, so be prepared. Remove the 4 trans bolts to bell housing and pull the trans back and rotate it 90° to the right to clear the tabs (If you haven't removed them) and continue to maneuver it until the input shaft will clear the bell housing and drop it down front first. I've done this many times on a MKI which is pretty much like a MKII, unless you have the backbone, which would hinder it a bit. If your trans tunnel top is removable you'll have more room to access things.

[GoDadGo]

Hey Mikeee,

I know nothing about the earlier Roadsters and even less about Fords for that matter, but I think you'll save a lot of time if you pull the driveline.

Removing Driveline To Replace Leaky Block:
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

Reinstalling Driveline:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

Doing all that work under the car is rougher than rough and pretty tough on an aging body if you are old like me.

Good Luck, Happy Wrenching & Watch Your Pinkies!

Steve

[MikeHolt]

Thanks all! Looks like fun times ahead regardless of the path I take!

[CraigS]

The one I helped w/ was a MkII w/ the backbone. 2 things that I remember. 1- we couldn't get the trans back far enough to get the input shaft out of the bell housing. So we removed the bell to engine bolts, popped the bell off the guide pins, and tilted the bell down at it's rear, brought the trans down also until the input cleared. 2- We had the top aluminum panel off the tunnel. Wrapped a ratchet strap around the trans and brought it up out the top of the tunnel. The ratchet allowed me to adjust the length of the loop so I could stand on both seats w/ legs and arms completely straight and support the trans weight. This allowed the guy below to twist and wiggle the trans w/o worrying about it dropping on him.

[PG_Cobra]

I've done this job on my Mk1 a few times, and now do it without removing the tunnel cover.

Drain transmission, unhook wiring, unhook clutch cable.
Remove driveshaft
Remove shifter (4 bolts), this will give clearance when you rotate the T5
Jack under rear of engine
Unbolt T5 from bell housing and move back while rotating 90* anticlockwise until the tailshaft is up on the diff.
Unbolt bell housing from engine and lower the rear of the engine so the bell housing comes out
Slide transmission forward, down and out.

Reassembly of the clutch release bearing and arm can be tricky. I opened up about 1" on the arm which makes reassembly easy.

Hope this helps

[MikeHolt]

I've done this job on my Mk1 a few times, and now do it without removing the tunnel cover.

Drain transmission, unhook wiring, unhook clutch cable.
Remove driveshaft
Remove shifter (4 bolts), this will give clearance when you rotate the T5
Jack under rear of engine
Unbolt T5 from bell housing and move back while rotating 90* anticlockwise until the tailshaft is up on the diff.
Unbolt bell housing from engine and lower the rear of the engine so the bell housing comes out
Slide transmission forward, down and out.

Reassembly of the clutch release bearing and arm can be tricky. I opened up about 1" on the arm which makes reassembly easy.

Hope this helps

Can you expound on the bit about the clutch fork?

Thx

[first time builder]

I have been working on cars for over 50 yrs and have NEVER pulled a Trans with bell attached, I see them do it on TV shows all the time so I guess its a thing some people do. I just find it so much easier not to have the extra weight and bulk of the bell.
Kenny

[Cobra4me]

I cut the tube ,whole lot easier ,had AOD, motor had to come out after blowing trans 3 times,swaped to Gforce T5 ,with center removable very easy...over 2 years never problem

[MikeHolt]

UPDATE:
Pulled the tranny. Had my son stand above using a strap to support the weight.
After install, the car would grind going into second. Up or down, regardless of speed. I could snatch it into second with considerable force. But definitely messed up. So, I pulled it again and sent it back. Transmission guy contacted me and said the transmission was fine and sent me video of it installed in his test 5.0 and it shifted fine all the way thru the range, up and down.
I have a pretty stock set up with an adjustable cable.
So, question is....could a cable adjustment be the culprit or bad shifter? Any ideas?

Thanks!

[CraigS]

Cable adjustment should affect all gears the same (except for reverse w/o a synchro). Over the years there have been quite a few reports that the rubber shifter boot can restrict movement of the lever. I don't remember which gears that affected but I would drive it w/ no boot at all as a test.

[DadofThree]

I seem to recall i had a small problem shifting once with my T5, and found that I had put the top transmission shift plate on backwards after putting it back together. It was restricting my second gear entry. I turned the plate 180* and problem solved. Hope your solution is simple. Dave