Traveller's Mk4 Coyote IRS Build - Brake Reservoir

[Traveller]

I have been thinking / dreaming about doing a roadster for about 15 years. I even started the project way back then with a 302 rebuild and started acquiring donor parts. Alas, three kids and all the associated activities plus a hectic work schedule gave me very little free time, so the idea got shelved and the accumulated parts all got sold off. Now, as I approach my 50th birthday in a few months and with the last of my children headed off to college, its back on the front burner. So on 08/07/2019 I placed my order and was shocked to receive a completion date of 08/24/2019!

As I was researching and developing my build plans, I connected with a few local people who very generously answered my questions, let me see their cars / builds, and even a few rides. Specifically, thank you to edwardb, msumners, and gumball for your time and input.

The goal is a fairly classic looking roadster with a modern engine/trans and a great driving experience. While I am anxious to get on the road, I am not going to rush the build and hope to enjoy each step of the process. Here are some details:

Mk4 Complete Kit
* Powdercoat Chassis
* Coyote/TKO Engine and Transmission Mounts
* IRS
* Body Cutouts
* Vintage GPS Gauge Set
* 18" Halibrand Wheels
* Driver Side Chrome Roll Bar
* Coyote Power Steering Kit and Rack
* 13" IRS Rear Brake Kit
* 2018 IRS 3.55 Center Section and Spindles

Engine and Transmission - Ordered from Factory Five AT
* Gen 2 Coyote
* TKO-600 Transmission with .64 5th gear
* Assembled and mounted on stand

Headers and Sidepipes
* Gas-N Stainless Headers
* Gas-N Stainless Polished Sidepipes

Other
* Windwings
* Sun Visors
* Tangent Hidden Roll Bar Connector
* Herb's Door Panels
* Front Battery Mount
* Kleiner Rear Quick Jack Mod
* Drop Trunk

Future Plans and Wish List
* Automatic Turn Signal Cancel
* Color: TBD. 1966 Ford Ivy Green?
* Glove Box w/ VW keyed latch off ebay
* Integrated/Hidden Garage Door Opener
* Heated Seats

Many more decisions to make along the way, but that is the starting point. I'll keep updating the above list as more decisions are made. I am looking forward to the build and will use this thread to document the project.

Index (Post # - Topic):
5 - Body Buck
7 - Inventory
10 - IRS Differential
14 - Front Suspension
20 - Rear Suspension
31 - Powder Coating of Brackets / Steel Parts
33 - E-Brake Cable
36 - Pedal Box
37 - Cockpit Aluminum
41 - Drop Trunk
45 - Fuel Pump Access
49 - Powder Coating of Aluminum Panels
50 - Coyote Throttle Pedal
52 - Front Battery Box

[Traveller]

I originally was going to have Stewart deliver the kit, but decided to go pick it up myself. I probably saved myself only a few hundred dollars doing so, but I am glad to have done it.

I was going to fly to MA then rent a truck to bring the kit back, but ended up driving both ways. I found a tip on the forums about Penske truck rental having unlimited free miles on one-way rentals. After confirming that picking up a truck at one location in my town and returning to a different store in town counts as a "one-way", we rented a 22-foot bright yellow truck and headed out. My oldest son went with me, and we took a few days to get there with a stop at Niagra Falls as he had never been there before:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113617&d=1567449915
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113619&d=1567449915

After a ride on the "Maid of the Mist" we continued on to Wareham MA and got a good night's sleep before pickup on Monday. Tip-o-the-hat the the crew at FFR. They were top notch in helping get the kit loaded up and offering tips on how to best secure it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113620&d=1567449915
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113621&d=1567449915
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113624&d=1567449915

While there, we did the tour of the FFR facility and saw a bunch of other kits ready to head to their new homes. Also saw several of the 25th Anniversary edition frames getting built. I like the color of the powdercoat on these!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113622&d=1567449915
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113623&d=1567449915

After 2,000 miles round trip, we got it back home and unloaded into the garage. We took the body off, unloaded it, then three of us were able to lift the chassis out of the truck and onto the chassis dolly (thank you Mike!). The engine and transmission was on a stand with casters but they were too wide for the truck's loading ramp. Took off the casters and mounted some 2x4"s and screwed that onto harbor freight furniture dollys and it was a snap to roll it off the truck.

The roadster is in it's new home!

[stevant]

Congrats on bringing her home.....enjoy the build!!!

[PeteMeindl]

Welcome aboard! You guys are going to have a great time!

[Traveller]

With the holiday weekend I had grand plans to get a ton done with the roadster, but only managed to get the body buck built and the body stored away. I went with a shortened version of the body buck as I was going to hang it for storage under my back deck.

The buck was simple enough to build, and I added a rib running down the center line of the body to provide some support for the above dash arch. The rib also greatly reduced the flexing of the body, which is important given I am storing it outside / under a deck. It's pretty sheltered from wind but I wanted to minimize flexing. I also added some short 2x2" legs to make moving it around easier when not hung.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113733&d=1567623228
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113735&d=1567623256
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113734&d=1567623248

Now on to inventory...

[GTBradley]

Welcome Jason. We have nearly identical inventory lists and ideas about the car. The few differences are things like 18” wheels, I did 17, and auto turn signals. I too wanted to take my time and enjoy the build, and I thought I was, but the building is so entertaining that I couldn’t think about anything else. I obsessed. My wife commented at one point that she “knows what it’s like to be widowed”. I didn’t want an overly “moded” Cobra, I wanted something that reminded me of 1965, but would be as dependable as it could be. I look forward to following your progress and don’t hesitate to reach out if you get stuck, I’ve probably been there.

[Traveller]

I've been very busy between work, kids off to college (including one studying abroad), and various other activities so progress has been slow than expected, but inventory is DONE!

Wow does that take longer than one would expect. I worked through it one box at a time, checking off each item as they go back into the box until needed. I also taped a copy of the inventory sheet onto the outside of each box for easy reference. Lastly, there were various items originally on the POL, but picked for my order at the last minute, so I got all those random bits back into their originally designated boxes.

I only discovered a handful of missing fasteners and parts (be sure to count EVERYTHING); however, there was one entire BOX that was not included with my kit and was not included on my POL. Factory Five was quick to acknowledge the mistake and is taking care of it. I've been very impressed with their customer service so far.

On to the next step of marking and removing the mounted panels.

[MSumners]

Just found the thread and will be following. Remember to take pictures of all the overlaps on the aluminum when they are coming off, especially the foot boxes. After they have been off for awhile it’s easy to forget the sequence.

[Traveller]

Just found the thread and will be following. Remember to take pictures of all the overlaps on the aluminum when they are coming off, especially the foot boxes. After they have been off for awhile it’s easy to forget the sequence.

I took a lot of pictures, but if I missed something I'll just drive over and take a look at yours...

Thanks for the chassis dolly! It's working great.

-Jason

[Traveller]

Very little progress has been made of the past few weeks due to work and family commitments, but slowly panels are getting drilled.

This afternoon I decided take a break from that and get the IRS center section off the floor and mounted to the chassis. Working by myself, I balanced it on a rolling dolly and positioned it under the chassis. Then using 2 sets of ratchet straps, one around the nose and one around the rear of the diff I started lifting it up into place. You really have to angle the nose up first, then coax the rear end up into place, then drop the nose back down a bit, then fiddle with alignment ad nauseam. Bottom line - it can be done solo, but this would be a great time to phone a friend...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114630&d=1569012190

BE SURE TO CHECK THE GEAR OIL! - I have read many accounts of people receiving these differentials from the factory filled, and many others being empty. I drained this one to make sure and found it contained only 20 oz of oil, which is less than half the required 3.15 - 3.30 pt. In case anyone is interested, I had asked Ford tech support for the fluid specs and they sent me this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114632&d=1569019833

I find it interesting that "full" is 9mm below the fill hole...

[Traveller]

Tonight as I was walking around the chassis and looking at the recently installed IRS differential when I noticed that it is off center toward the passenger side when viewed from the front. Please see the attached photo. I don't see how the diff could be installed incorrectly, but wanted to check with the forum if this is correct?

Thanks,
Jason

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114782&d=1569292300

[edwardb]

It's correct. Entire drivetrain (engine, trans, driveshaft, diff) is approx 1-inch offset to the right side. Pretty standard stuff. Many DD's with the same layout (front engine, rear wheel drive) are similar.

[Traveller]

Perfect. Thank you, Paul.


It's correct. Entire drivetrain (engine, trans, driveshaft, diff) is approx 1-inch offset to the right side. Pretty standard stuff. Many DD's with the same layout (front engine, rear wheel drive) are similar.

[Traveller]

It's been a month since my last update, but a little bit of progress has been made despite a crazy work schedule and a two week vacation in England and Scotland!

But now it's back to business...

I have the basics of the front suspension installed, greased and torqued. I did trim the UCA sleeves and studs with a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder, then cleaned them up with a dremel. Pretty easy process (be sure to thread a bolt or two on before cutting the studs to help clean up the threads when you back them off after cutting).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116715&d=1572116898

When I assembled the front end I tried to carefully follow the manual and other build threads since half of the people seem to get something on backwards or upside down. Does everything look OK in these pictures?

Driver Side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116711&d=1572116008
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116712&d=1572116023
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116714&d=1572116043

Passenger Side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116708&d=1572115952
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116709&d=1572115983
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116710&d=1572115995


Thanks!
Jason

[Jeff Kleiner]

The only thing that the pics don't show for certain is whether the wide end of the tapered hole in the steering arms is down---if it is you're good to go!

Jeff

[Traveller]

The only thing that the pics don't show for certain is whether the wide end of the tapered hole in the steering arms is down---if it is you're good to go!

Jeff

Seriously?!?!? Dang it. Well - that is why I asked. Gotta go flip them...

Thank you very much, Jeff.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Seriously?!?!? Dang it. Well - that is why I asked. Gotta go flip them...

Thank you very much, Jeff.

You'll need to not just flip them but also swap sides. Steering arms need to have the wide end of the taper dawn and must angle outward from the spindle.

Jeff

[Traveller]

You'll need to not just flip them but also swap sides. Steering arms need to have the wide end of the taper dawn and must angle outward from the spindle.

Jeff

Yeah - I get that. It's funny - I didn't realize that they were tapered holes, but I did catch in the manual where it said to orient them such that the tie rod ends will mount from the bottom. When looking at the steering arms, one side is smooth while the other is textured like the rest of the arm. I assumed the smooth side went down where it would mate against the ball joint.

You know what happens when you assume...

[Traveller]

Okay - the steering arms are flipped and swapped, and everything is torqued up once more.

The other thing I did today was to paint the front calipers (I did not choose the wilwoods). I think they turned out looking pretty good. I'll give them a day or two to cure before installing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116716&d=1572124678

[Traveller]

I got the front calipers mounted up, then it was time to move on to the rear suspension. First step was to trim the one arm off the knuckles. I tried both a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder and a sawzall and found the sawzall worked the best. Once cut, I used a grinder with a sanding wheel to clean up the cut surface.

For the hole that needs to be drilled out on the knuckles, I used a tip that I saw edwardb suggest previously and started the hole with a stepped bit. This really helped get the hole started without the bit catching and the drill trying to break my wrist. Then a few coats of paint and they are ready to go on:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117031&d=1572726567
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117030&d=1572726556

I saw where some have covered the holes in the knuckles which are used for the ABS sensor. I tapped the holes to 1/4" and 1/2" and put in set screws with loctite so those are sealed up. Probably not necessary, but why not...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117029&d=1572726543

The rear upper and lower arms went in pretty well and are all set to the recommended length, then I slid in the axles. I believe they are properly seated and the 1/8" gap looks correct:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117028&d=1572726533
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117027&d=1572726518

[Traveller]

Before I tighten anything down, does this look correct to you? The top arm to the spindle connection seems a bit wonky to me... Note that nothing has been tightened down yet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117220&d=1573091136
Thank you!
jason

[edwardb]

Looks OK to me. You should find it all tightens up when the bolts are torqued down per the instructions.

[Traveller]

Great. Thank you, Paul.

[Traveller]

I just finished torquing down the bolts on the IRS suspension and see in the manual where it says
Check the angle of the upper control arm rod end, make sure that the rod end is not touching the spindle and that it is aligned with the upper control arm.
What does "aligned with the upper control arm" mean? Does it mean the rod end body should be vertical (as shown in this picture) or can I rotate it slightly clockwise to make it more parallel with the spindle which would maximize clearance between the rod end and the spindle surface. I hope that makes sense...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117220&d=1573091136

[edwardb]

What does "aligned with the upper control arm" mean? Does it mean the rod end body should be vertical (as shown in this picture) or can I rotate it slightly clockwise to make it more parallel with the spindle which would maximize clearance between the rod end and the spindle surface.

I think either perspective is fine. They're not that different. I think they're just confirming you don't have the rod end casing rotated to where it might contact the knuckle (unlikely) or not stay fully engaged on the ball swivel as the suspension moves up and down.

[Traveller]

I think either perspective is fine. They're not that different. I think they're just confirming you don't have the rod end casing rotated to where it might contact the knuckle (unlikely) or not stay fully engaged on the ball swivel as the suspension moves up and down.

Got it. Thank you, Paul.

[Traveller]

I am putting in the power steering rack from the complete kit and am using the Breeze offset rack mounting bushings (really like these) and am unclear on two things:

1) Are the shims to be inserted in front (pushing the rack rearward) or behind (pushing the rack forward) the rack/bushing?
2) The instructions from Breeze seem to be suggesting that the passenger side bolt feeds from the front (nut in rear) and the opposite from the drivers side (nut in the front). The instructions say this helps with access if using the breeze front battery mount kit, which I am. Is this correct?

Actually on number 2, I am even more confused - the instructions from breeze are very detailed, but only mention inserting the shims on the passenger side. I can only assume it is needed on both.

I emailed Mark these questions but since it's after hours I don't expect a reply until Monday so I thought I'd ask this astute group.

Thanks in advance.
-Jason

[edwardb]

I am putting in the power steering rack from the complete kit and am using the Breeze offset rack mounting bushings (really like these) and am unclear on two things:

1) Are the shims to be inserted in front (pushing the rack rearward) or behind (pushing the rack forward) the rack/bushing?
2) The instructions from Breeze seem to be suggesting that the passenger side bolt feeds from the front (nut in rear) and the opposite from the drivers side (nut in the front). The instructions say this helps with access if using the breeze front battery mount kit, which I am. Is this correct?

Actually on number 2, I am even more confused - the instructions from breeze are very detailed, but only mention inserting the shims on the passenger side. I can only assume it is needed on both.

I emailed Mark these questions but since it's after hours I don't expect a reply until Monday so I thought I'd ask this astute group.

Thanks in advance.
-Jason

1. Behind (pushing the rack forward). On both sides.

2. Correct. Passenger (right) side push the bolt in from the front with the nut on the back. Otherwise, once the Breeze front battery box is installed, you wouldn't be able to get that bolt out.

Both details are visible in this picture from my #7750 build.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/.highres/IMG_2089_zps460f6447.jpg (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/93893ee5-6b6c-4c52-a724-193c36095c1d)

[Traveller]

Paul - thank you so much. I continue to be astounded at the breadth and depth of your knowledge, and willingness to share it.

I'm off to finish the rack install...

Thank you!

[edwardb]

Paul - thank you so much. I continue to be astounded at the breadth and depth of your knowledge, and willingness to share it.

I'm off to finish the rack install...

Thank you!

You're welcome. Happy to help as long as it's something I've had experience with in the builds I've done.

[Traveller]

I sent a batch 56 parts off to be powder coated and they turned out great! The shop was recommended to me by MSumners (Thanks Mike!) and they were able to turn around the order in 48 hours. Great service.

I am looking forward to getting the rest of the panels fitted and drilled so I can send them off as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118703&d=1575905070

[Traveller]

When I ordered my kit, I decided to not get the Wilwood upgrade and I am starting to regret that (penny wise, pound foolish maybe). I ended up with the 11" front and the 13" rear brake setup and I don't love the look of the different sizes, but I'll stick with them for now and see how the look with wheels on and how they perform.

I had painted the front calipers and they turned out beautifully, but the rear calipers were a different story. The rears where on my backorder list and only recently showed up on my doorstep. The coating on them was some kind of silver powder coat so in preparation for painting them black to match the fronts, I sanded and scuffed very thoroughly. However, the paint WOULD NOT STICK. I probably painted / stripped / repainted these things 5 times before I could finally get decent adhesion. They look good now, but I am worried they will start to chip or flake once in service.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118704&d=1575905078

I will not be surprised if I find myself doing a Wilwood upgrade after my first driving season...

Anyway, the only other problem I had was that I could not find a way to get the pads in with the included rattle clips. I found another post that said they couldn't either and ended up leaving them out. So that is what I did. They fit very tightly and there is no play, so I think that will be ok. Agree? Also, could you please take a look and let me know if you see any problems or errors in these photos?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118702&d=1575905054
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118701&d=1575905042
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118700&d=1575905031
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118699&d=1575905020
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118698&d=1575905013
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118697&d=1575905002

[Traveller]

Rear brakes are in and I ran the eBrake cables from calipers to the mount in the tunnel. The cables are stretched pretty tight. After they were in, I tried to move the internal cables (pushing back through the sleeve toward the calipers). The passenger side slides freely but the driver's side (which is the one most tightly stretched) is VERY hard to push back by hand. I does move, but much more resistance. Is this ok/normal?

Here is a pic of cable routing:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118706&d=1575905095

[edwardb]

They shouldn't be so tight that the inner cable doesn't move freely. Probably would pull OK to actuate the e-brake. But with the amount of drag you're describing, may not release when the handle is released. Sounds like you need longer cables. Or maybe could be routed inside that frame member instead of outside. Where the UCA mounts.

[bobm488]

I had to trim the sides of the rattle clips to get them to fit.

[Traveller]

Wow - it's been a month since my last update... As a partial excuse I took the family to Switzerland for the holidays and we had a great time. Christmas in the Alps was something to remember...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121244&d=1579822848
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121243&d=1579822838

However, I have made some progress since then.

After the rear suspension was done, I turned my attention to the pedal box. No drama there as everything went together very easily. One question I have is if the clutch switch is actually needed as shown given the Coyote motor I am using? I believe I read that the Coyote uses another clutch switch rather than the one shown - so can the one on the clutch pedal be removed?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121246&d=1579823221

Thanks,
Jason

[Traveller]

I decided to wait to fit/drill all the aluminum panels until recently, so that is what I am doing now. The foot boxes went together well, and I only found a few places that needed to be trimmed. First was both sides of the transmission tunnel. The front edge was flush or below the trans tunnel frame, but as you went toward the rear of the car it stuck up above the frame. I ground down some welds on the floor and made sure everything was seated properly, but in the end I needed to trim both sides to have the panels flush with the trans tunnel frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120114&d=1578267575
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120113&d=1578267533
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120112&d=1578267517

I'm happy with the end result, but it seems odd I'd have to trim both sides. Anyone else experience this?

-Jason

[Traveller]

The other area that needed trimming was the trunk side panels where they meet the rear cockpit wall. The angles just didn't align and I had to take the "point" off the top forward corners.

This was the very top left corner of the panel (above and left of the cleco). I had to take off maybe 1/8" to 1/4" on each side otherwise it was visibly pushing the rear cockpit wall forward and distorting it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121247&d=1579823939

[edwardb]

You don't want/need the standard kit clutch switch with the Coyote. The control pack comes with a different switch that plugs into the control pack harness. It's installed up on the pedal box on the modified clutch quadrant if you're using the Factory Five modified cable setup. Factory Five supplies the necessary mounting pieces on their Coyote completion kit. If you're doing a hydraulic clutch, the pieces can be modified to still work. Several build threads including mine show some ways to do that.

Yes, I've had to trim a little along the transmission tunnel. But not quite that much. Make sure you have the floor sheeting flat on the frame and everything else fitted before cutting anything.

[cv2065]

I had to trim my tunnel sides just slightly to get them flush. I don't recall trimming any other panels. I'd check and double check fitment before trimming. On the calipers, I had the same issue with paint. Just take care when bleeding, as the bleeder screws can be loose in those calipers and let fluid out that will ruin your paint job. I just ended up not painting the bleeder pad.

[Traveller]

As I moved on to the trunk aluminum, I decided to do the drop trunk mod. Russ Thompson's kit is very nice and was pretty easy to assemble and fit.

My order of operations was:
1) Assembled the box and cleco'd it together.
2) Cut out the hole in the trunk panel per the kit instructions.
3) Centered the hole of the panel over the box and drilled / cleco'd together.
4) Traced the inside of the box opening onto the trunk floor panel and trimmed off the excess around the opening.
5) Remove the box from the floor panel and put the floor panel back onto the chassis.
6) Trace all diagonal braces onto the floor panel and remove it from the chassis.
7) Transfer the marks for the diagonal braces to the drop trunk box and extend down 3/4".
8) Cut out the notches, fit, and file.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121250&d=1579827594
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121252&d=1579827607
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121256&d=1579827644

Very happy with the result. The drop trunk kit from Russ very nice indeed.

- Jason

[Traveller]

I'm done with the rear end aluminum and there is a significant (maybe 1/2") where the bottom lip of the lower trunk floor panel extends rearward past the side panels on the trunk. Is this normal? Does it need to be trimmed? All panels seem to be properly positioned.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121258&d=1579827949
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121257&d=1579827928

Thanks!
- Jason

[Traveller]

You don't want/need the standard kit clutch switch with the Coyote. The control pack comes with a different switch that plugs into the control pack harness. It's installed up on the pedal box on the modified clutch quadrant if you're using the Factory Five modified cable setup. Factory Five supplies the necessary mounting pieces on their Coyote completion kit. If you're doing a hydraulic clutch, the pieces can be modified to still work. Several build threads including mine show some ways to do that.

Yes, I've had to trim a little along the transmission tunnel. But not quite that much. Make sure you have the floor sheeting flat on the frame and everything else fitted before cutting anything.

Thanks. I'll ditch that switch and get the other installed. And, yes - I made sure all panels were well seated before trimming.

Thanks again!
Jason

[Traveller]

I had to trim my tunnel sides just slightly to get them flush. I don't recall trimming any other panels. I'd check and double check fitment before trimming. On the calipers, I had the same issue with paint. Just take care when bleeding, as the bleeder screws can be loose in those calipers and let fluid out that will ruin your paint job. I just ended up not painting the bleeder pad.

Thanks. I probably fitted all panels 5 times to make sure positioning was proper before trimming. Now that they are trimmed, everything seems well aligned.

Thanks again,
- Jason

[Traveller]

Time to get caught up on the build thread...

Once the drop trunk was completed, I expanded the access hole and made a new cover to give easier access to the fuel pump as is recommended by many.

It appears that expanding the hole forward and to the right is what is needed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123875&d=1583857009

Cut the hole, filed the smooth and drilled holes for rivnuts:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123877&d=1583857034

Traced the opening onto a scrap piece of aluminum and added border for the new cover plate:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123876&d=1583857027

And voilà:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123878&d=1583857044

[Traveller]

My plan has always been to send out all panels and unfinished steel parts for powder coating, and have previously sent all the brackets I could find to be coated. The aluminum panels will go shortly.

However, as an impulse buy I picked up the cheap harbor freight powder coat kit just for kicks and I have been furiously coating all kinds of small parts ever since, including the couplers used for the Kleiner rear quick jack mod and the bracket that holds the fuel filler tube to the tank:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123883&d=1583857788
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123884&d=1583857804
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123886&d=1583857821

I have been pleased with how the parts turn out. Nice setup for quickly coating those random bits.

[GoDadGo]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123884&d=1583857804

I love roasted peanuts, baked pecans and toasted almonds, but how do roasted coupler nuts taste?

Looking Good & Love The Ingenuity!

[Traveller]

I finally got around to finishing fitting and drilling the foot boxes, so I am DONE with the fitting and drilling of all panels. Yah!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123889&d=1583860755
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123887&d=1583860709
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123890&d=1583860812
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123891&d=1583860824

Question - in the final picture, notice that there is about a 1/4" gap running along the top back of the driver footbox. I triple checked and the panel could NOT be moved back any further due to other hard mount points and aligning the bend further forward with the other panels. Is this normal? If not, I'll probably simply fill this space with some weather stripping.

thanks!
Jason

[Traveller]

Now that all drilling and fitting is done, I scuffed up all aluminum panels and cleaned them well with acetone.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123892&d=1583861359

Then off to the powder coater. I chose a color they call "Outerspace" which is a charcoal grey with some lighter silver specks in it. I was going to only send those panels which are visible, but in the end just sent everything. 48 hours later, look what I have:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123894&d=1583861404
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123897&d=1583861448

So I did some assembly of the panels and did my first permanent attaching! Feels like progress...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123896&d=1583861436
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123898&d=1583861460
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123899&d=1583861471

[Traveller]

Moving on, I finished up the pedal box and started installing the coyote throttle pedal. After trimming according to the instructions, I found the steering shaft was hitting and preventing the pedal from mounting correctly. I saw other posts where this is fairly common, so I had to do some aggressive trimming around the mounting ears (especially the top one) to make it fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123900&d=1583862054

I saw a post by Hacksaw84 where he made a new pedal pad which matched the other Wilwood pads and I liked it better than the OEM pad (shown in the first pic below).
Here is the link (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30557-Made-My-Own-Wilwood-Gas-Pedal) to Hacksaw's original mod.

I ordered two Wilwood pads off Amazon, trimmed them and mounted them to the coyote pedal arm. I am happy with the results.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123901&d=1583862069
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123902&d=1583862080
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123903&d=1583862094
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123904&d=1583862108
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123905&d=1583862120

[Traveller]

And now for a brief intermission from our regular programming...

This weekend one of my sons and I made a road trip to hit a few museums including the US Air Force Museum (amazing!), and the Gilmore Car Museum. Although the Gilmore Museum is only an hour away from my house, I've never actually made it there until now. Among all the incredible cars they have sits this beauty:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123906&d=1583862775
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123907&d=1583862787
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123908&d=1583862800

It is an original Cobra, but I don't believe it is an S/C as indicated in the signage.

If you are ever in the area, it's definitely worth a visit.

[Traveller]

I installed the Breeze front mount battery tray. Very nice piece with excellent instructions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123911&d=1583876249
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123893&d=1583861392

[Traveller]

I've held off ordering my headers and side pipes until now, but given the 4-6 week lead time and my hope that I will make good progress over the next month or two, I contacted Georgie at Gas-N and ordered the headers in natural stainless and the side pipes in polished finish. Can't wait to receive these.

[Traveller]

I love roasted peanuts, baked pecans and toasted almonds, but how do roasted coupler nuts taste?

Looking Good & Love The Ingenuity!

Tasty, but careful to not chip a tooth...

[Straversi]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123886&d=1583857821.

Looking good. I had read in several builds that it was worthwhile to replace the gasket between fuel tank and filler neck that comes with the kit with an OEM gasket from Ford. That proved to be good advice since the kit gasket started leaking right away and I had the OEM gasket on hand. Ford Part # F4ZZ-9072-DA

-Steve

[Traveller]

Looking good. I had read in several builds that it was worthwhile to replace the gasket between fuel tank and filler neck that comes with the kit with an OEM gasket from Ford. That proved to be good advice since the kit gasket started leaking right away and I had the OEM gasket on hand. Ford Part # F4ZZ-9072-DA

-Steve

Steve - thank you for the suggestion. I too stumbled across that recommendation and ordered and installed the Ford OEM part. Trying to learn from others experiences as much as I can...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123923&d=1583893067

[Traveller]

For now I am sticking with a single brake reservoir and using the FFR supplied one. I fabricated a mount from aluminum and powder coated it. I am happy with the results:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123942&d=1583959910
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123943&d=1583959921
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123944&d=1583959936
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123945&d=1583959944
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123946&d=1583959955
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123947&d=1583959965

[Hacksaw84]

Moving on, I finished up the pedal box and started installing the coyote throttle pedal. After trimming according to the instructions, I found the steering shaft was hitting and preventing the pedal from mounting correctly. I saw other posts where this is fairly common, so I had to do some aggressive trimming around the mounting ears (especially the top one) to make it fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123900&d=1583862054

I saw a post by Hacksaw84 where he made a new pedal pad which matched the other Wilwood pads and I liked it better than the OEM pad (shown in the first pic below).
Here is the link (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30557-Made-My-Own-Wilwood-Gas-Pedal) to Hacksaw's original mod.

I ordered two Wilwood pads off Amazon, trimmed them and mounted them to the coyote pedal arm. I am happy with the results.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123901&d=1583862069
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123902&d=1583862080
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123903&d=1583862094
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123904&d=1583862108
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123905&d=1583862120


Looking good man, appreciate the shout out. I did end up trimming the corner a little after the panel was on. Just to be sure I had complete clearance.

Michael