500 mile checkup and fan controller added.

[bobm488]

Kids on our street gave me the above name because I was always working in the garage.

I first posted on the Roadster page as “ I’m joining the club” Figured I should move over here and do some updates.
Kit was ready to ship July 27th, she was delivered two weeks later on August 8th.
My configuration is , IRS, powder coated, cut outs, Coyote, leather seats. blank dash, Power steering, heater, 17” halibrands, sun visors and wind wings.

Front suspension installed and rack centered per Karlos. I need to remove the shocks and check the rebound damping. All rivet holes drilled for front sheet metal.
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Optional jungle gym for grand kids
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IRS installed, waiting for back ordered calipers. That pumpkin is heavy and awkward.
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I was never warned by forum members on how many band aids I would need.

As she sits today.
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[David Williamson]

check your upper "A" arm to hub bolts on the IRS, I think you have the spacer on the wrong side.
David W

[bobm488]

Is this wrong?

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[bobm488]

Mocked up the Russ Thompson drop trunk today. The instructions are clear and I’m very happy with the quality of his products.

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Matting corners are marked with matching alpha charters making it easy for dummies (me) to not goof it up.

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All mocked up, I had to do a second cut around the entire perimeter of the drop trunk to make the transition between the vertical trunk wall and existing trunk deck match better.
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[bobm488]

Ordered my Gen 2 Coyote, TKO 600, scatter shield, hydraulic clutch, SS headers with cats, drive shaft safety loop and heated seat inserts from Mike Forte today. It sound like the Gen 2’s are getting harder and harder to find. Mike is a great guy to work with.
I also dropped off my engine compartment panels for powder coating yesterday.

[bobm488]

I had my engine compartment powder coated the wrong color. I wanted a gun metal gray in came out a dark gray with a green tone. I think my path forward will be scuff up the panels and paint with a rattle can, a little depressed, oh well, push forward. Yes, it was me that picked the wrong color.
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[MSumners]

Is this wrong?

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Can’t completely tell from the picture but seems ok, others should chime in. This is what mine looked like. Thread spacing should be approximately equal at the stated arm length for adjustability later as well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115102&d=1569689759

[Mark Eaton]

Is this wrong?

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That looks like the way I did mine, which doesn't necessarily mean its correct, lol. But what do you mean by "wrong"?

[bobm488]

That looks like the way I did mine, which doesn't necessarily mean its correct, lol. But what do you mean by "wrong"?

David Williamson said.
"check your upper "A" arm to hub bolts on the IRS, I think you have the spacer on the wrong side.
David W"

[Mark Eaton]

The photo you showed is the upper control arm to spindle and the spacer looks correct to me.

[bobm488]

A few progress photos.
Installed a triple reservoir, this thing is massive.

Bracket made from old piece of angle
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Fabricated upper side panels for the trunk, easier and a lot messier than I thought. I traced the outside trunk panel onto a piece of aluminum, then added three tabs that would later be bent to sit on top of the trunk steel. After getting the shape, there was a lot of trimming and test fitting to miss the seat belt bracket and roll bar.

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[TMartinLVNV]

Hey Bob. The upper trunk panels look great!

[PrestonT23]

Looking good! good luck with the rest of the build!

[bobm488]

Coyote showed up from Forte the other day, it’s huge. Now the hard work begins.

[TMartinLVNV]

Looking good Bob. Not the hard work. The fun work!

[RodneyArcher]

That Gen 2 sure looks better than the Gen 3!

[tt400]

Coyote will be awsome in that car. Keep it going.

[Gizmosrcool]

Sweet new stuff. Looking forward to the coyote gen2 install.

[bobm488]

Coyote went in pretty easy. Unfortunately I broke the driver side exhaust gasket. Of course not even Ford keeps them in stock. Engine is sitting on the mounts but not tightened down. I don’t think I should do anything else on the motor until I know I can bolt the header in without having to jack the motor up or move forward to secure all the header bolts. Sorry for the rotated photos.
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[TMartinLVNV]

Congrats Bob! Big day for you. Your build is looking good.

[Railroad]

May be something you want to do, or not. I think Jeff K sometimes puts a washer between the engine block and drivers side motor mount. This adds some clearance in the tight areas, ie foot box, valve cover, headers, etc.
I just did this after the engine and headers are on. Might be easier now for you, if desired.
It also makes the dipstick a little more accessible.

One other thing, I have the same reservoirs, not mounted yet. I put the F5 supplied ones on.
Now I have to change out. It looks like with the reservoirs at the rear most position, the dip stick will be almost inaccessible. I have my body on and installing hood hinges, so should be able to check clearances.

[bobm488]

May be something you want to do, or not. I think Jeff K sometimes puts a washer between the engine block and drivers side motor mount. This adds some clearance in the tight areas, ie foot box, valve cover, headers, etc.
I just did this after the engine and headers are on. Might be easier now for you, if desired.
It also makes the dipstick a little more accessible.

One other thing, I have the same reservoirs, not mounted yet. I put the F5 supplied ones on.
Now I have to change out. It looks like with the reservoirs at the rear most position, the dip stick will be almost inaccessible. I have my body on and installing hood hinges, so should be able to check clearances.

Thanks Railroad, I escaped my decorating duties for a few minutes to visit garage to investigate the reservoir/dipstick situation. I re-installed the reservoirs and it is definably not optimal, but it does work.

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One washer/shim will make difference on the engine mount?

[Railroad]

I put one average thickness flat washer at each bolt, between the block and motor mount. I can now slide a piece of cardboard between the foot box and all close points on the engine and headers. It is more clearance than I had and put the engine on a perfect level.

The washer location will not compromise the motor mount. If you want to maintain surface contact area, get a fender washer.

Check with Jeff Kleiner. It is one of his revealed tricks.

[bobm488]

I put one average thickness flat washer at each bolt, between the block and motor mount. I can now slide a piece of cardboard between the foot box and all close points on the engine and headers. It is more clearance than I had and put the engine on a perfect level.

The washer location will not compromise the motor mount. If you want to maintain surface contact area, get a fender washer.

Check with Jeff Kleiner. It is one of his revealed tricks.

I'll add them tomorrow, thank you

[bobm488]

Very very close to first start. I have a vacuum question.

Do I move the vacuum line from the inlet ell to the fitting on the manifold as shown?

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[Railroad]

Pretty sure the hose from the air intake goes to the valve cover, Drivers side on mine. This provides clean air into the crankcase for the pcv to draw from. Mine is a Gen 1, plumbed a little diff.
Hope that makes some kind of sense.

[bobm488]

There is one from the driver’s side valve cover that already ties into the ell on the opposite side.

[Railroad]

Valve cover on one side is PCV to intake vacuum source. Other valve cover to filtered air source.
If these two are connected by a single hose, we need someone else to advise, unless it is to close the crankcase for shipping.
I called Ford Perf to verify mine,,, one side already plumbed to intake, other side needed to be hooked to air intake tube.
Manifold connection to air intake will be a vacuum leak.
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If you can see in the pic. My drivers side is filtered by a K&N filter. the other side plumbs to the intake. Routing may be diff, but result is the same.
Maybe a Gen II owner will post a pic.

[bobm488]

I just had my first start. My Oil pressure gage showed no pressure, I'll have to look into that.

https://youtu.be/AafX7u3_I-M

[Railroad]

My Speedhut gauge and sender, started out OK. 100 lbs, cold start, would go down between 60 and 80lbs warm. Later the reading would drop to very low, 20 lbs and then recover. Very unnerving. Speedhut sent me a new sending unit and all is well. Sounded like the engine fired right up, no problems.

[bobm488]

Off to Jeff Miller Customs, De Bat. for body and paint. I'm thinking of a purple/blue with a dark gray stripe. Have not found the exact color yet.

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Maybe something like this
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[bobm488]

I think I’ve graduated? The DMV is closed so no license. This has not stopped me from putting a few miles on it. Yesterday I drove it to the tire shop to have the 4 wheel alignment, boy was my alignment off. Drove it again this morning to the gas station. It seems to be running great so far with no leaks, probably just jinx myself stating that. I think I would have been done sooner if I could have done most task just once.
Thanks to everyone in this forum for your help, It would have been a lot harder if not impossible (for me) to do this project without your help.

Coyote by Forte
Paint by Jeff Miller, Da bat
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[Straversi]

Congratulations! Get that baby out in the sun and post some more photos please. There are three times when it is OK to brag about your accomplishments; job interview, asking for a raise and when graduating your FFR. Show her off.
-Steve

[Robert 2006]

Well done, congratulations from down the road.....

[bobm488]

I only have 5 miles on my car and I got my first snake bite today. It wasn’t from getting in or out of the car it was dusting the car off after a short drive to Starbucks. I don’t how you guys with small kids keep them from getting burned. I wonder how many more burns it will take for me to figure it out, if ever.

[Kmcallahan]

I think I’ve graduated? The DMV is closed so no license. This has not stopped me from putting a few miles on it. Yesterday I drove it to the tire shop to have the 4 wheel alignment, boy was my alignment off. Drove it again this morning to the gas station. It seems to be running great so far with no leaks, probably just jinx myself stating that. I think I would have been done sooner if I could have done most task just once.
Thanks to everyone in this forum for your help, It would have been a lot harder if not impossible (for me) to do this project without your help.

Coyote by Forte
Paint by Jeff Miller, Da bat
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Like The color, This is a good looking car!

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations & Love The Color!

[Paul2STL]

I only have 5 miles on my car and I got my first snake bite today. It wasn’t from getting in or out of the car it was dusting the car off after a short drive to Starbucks. I don’t how you guys with small kids keep them from getting burned. I wonder how many more burns it will take for me to figure it out, if ever.

Gets some shields they help a lot. I got mine from ********** here is a link. A little pricy but worth the protection and a lot of people compliment me on the look.
https://www.**********accessories.com/p-302-heat-shields-ceramic.aspx

[bobm488]

The first 100 miles has been pretty uneventful. I’ve had no leaks or significant issues. I’ve done two canyon runs and one three mile run down the freeway, baby steps. For now, I’m a little paranoid about getting to far from home.
My parking brake was not completely releasing on the driver’s side, standard IRS FFR brakes. Added a compression spring where the cable actuates the brake per CV2065, 12-16-2018
I added the power steering restriction orifice to the KRC power steering, following Terry from Las Vegas’s and GTBradley. May want to have the front end alignment tweaked to help with handling, recommendations would be appreciated.
I have the FFR standard coolant overflow tank, it has not overflowed yet, hottest engine temp so far is 70C, outside temp about 90F.
I currently have a 60 day temporary license.
Thanks to everyone on this forum for helping another novices dream come true.

[GTBradley]

You’re going to love that Coyote, not a lick of trouble for me in over 3000 miles. Beautiful car!

[bobm488]

To get rid of the annoying high-speed fan running all the time I installed the Maradyne MFA136 Fan Controller. I did it in three phases, under dash wiring, coolant temperature sensor install, and controller install and wiring termination. I am retired so spreading the work out to three days makes it a lot more enjoyable. If you are thinking about doing this and your car is not complete do it know, do not wait until after your car is done.

Phase 1, I had installed a secondary fuse box so adding a new circuit would not be that hard. My problem was I have an aluminum sheet the runs the full length under the dash, removing and reinstalling this was a PIA. I have am using a 15 Amp fuse, because I don’t know any better.

Phase 2, draining the cooling system and installing the inline Sensor adaptor to the lower radiator hose was easy just a little messy some coolant did not cooperate with my containment containers. Refilling and burping a coyote is a bit of a chore with out the fancy systems that some have.

Phase 3, I mounted the controller to the right-side inner wheel well. And terminated all the wires trying to make the wiring not look like it was not an afterthought, mostly achieved this. My car has never run over 75C. I had to adjust the temp setting almost all the way clock wise to get the fans to slow down, I’m sure some fine tuning will be needed after I drive it around.

Thank you GTBradly for your write up, without your documentation I would not have known about this product. Copying someone else’s design is always easier than going at in blindly.

My wiring diagram
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500 Mile checkup, while up on jack stands, I decided to make sure everything was still tight and fluids were topped off. Checked fluid levels in rear end and trans, checked all fuel and brake lines for leaks. Verified that all my marked bolts had not rotated. Checked tightness of header and side pipe bolts. Basically, checked all bolts to ensure tightness. Next on the list is remove wheels and check bolts in these areas.

IS THERE ANYTHING I’M MISSING?

[GTBradley]

Sure thing, I’m happy I was able to help. Your wiring diagram looks good, Id like to use it on the write-up I did, if you wouldn’t mind. The only difference I think is that yours runs for a minute after shut down, right?

How does it sound now? A lot better now that it’s just your side pipes, huh? In case someone gets interested, here’s the link to the write-up for the fan controller (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34158-!-Two-stage-cooling-fan-controller-for-Gen-2-Coyote-(will-work-for-any-engine)&highlight=Coyote+stage+cooling).

[bobm488]

Sure thing, I’m happy I was able to help. Your wiring diagram looks good, Id like to use it on the write-up I did, if you wouldn’t mind. The only difference I think is that yours runs for a minute after shut down, right?

How does it sound now? A lot better now that it’s just your side pipes, huh? In case someone gets interested, here’s the link to the write-up for the fan controller (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34158-!-Two-stage-cooling-fan-controller-for-Gen-2-Coyote-(will-work-for-any-engine)&highlight=Coyote+stage+cooling).

Here is a better PDF of the controller wiring I used, please use it. It was originally created in ACAD 12.
It does not run after the ignition is turned off. The car is still up on jack stands so I can finish my 500 mile check. I will report back after I get it back on the road.

Thanks again.

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[GTBradley]

I see now, you ran the grey wire to the ignition and the Coyote fan control powers the fan. It works fine that way, but you could have just connected the grey wire to the Coyote fan control also, same same. If you decide later to use the battery as the fan power, then your ignition grey wire will allow for the one minute runtime after shut down. Looking forward to your updates.