Stripped camshaft gear

[Vspeeds]

I am so close to getting my car registered in California under the SB100 Specialty Constructed Vehicle program. I have an appointment for my final inspection, the BAR referee next week (8/28/19) and now a MAJOR SETBACK! I have over 1400 miles on it when the engine suddenly backfired and would not start. Turns out I have a stripped camshaft gear. What a bummer. Now I have to replace the cam. Im hoping I'd be able to make the referee appointment with only a visual inspection. Not sure though. Not sure when I could get around to fix it also. If DMV paperwork time expires, that would suck if I have to go through this whole DMV registration process again when it gets fixed. I already paid my taxes and fees.

The crate engine was purchased 9 years ago (and it wasn't cheap) Unexpected changes occurred back then and I was forced to place the engine in storage in my garage. I put mystery oil in it and periodically rotated the shaft during storage. Bought a FFR in late 2017 and started it up first time in December 2018. I will reach out to Roush but I'm sure since its 9 years old Ill be left SOL.

Roush 427SR with a mild billet steel cam.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112865&d=1566600513

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112868&d=1566600906

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112867&d=1566600866

[BadAsp427]

Are you sure the oil pump is not seized up or at least dragging and causing the issue? Remember, that gear is not only turning your distributor, but your oil pump as well. Hard to see, but it looks like there may be some buggering on the oil pump drive shaft... how does it look in person and what about the inside of the bottom of the distributor???

[Vspeeds]

Are you sure the oil pump is not seized up or at least dragging and causing the issue? Remember, that gear is not only turning your distributor, but your oil pump as well. Hard to see, but it looks like there may be some buggering on the oil pump drive shaft... how does it look in person and what about the inside of the bottom of the distributor???

I put a socket on the oil pump shaft and it was able to be rotated freely. It wasn’t seized and spun easily but not sure if the shaft itself was severed from the pump. I could describe the effort of it spinning the same as the effort to spin the distributor shaft. The fitting on the bottom of the distributor was not damaged. I never lost oil pressure while driving.

[NAZ]

Make sure you change the distributor gear when you put in a new cam. And ensure you use a gear material that's compatible with your cam and oil pump pressure rating. The cam manufacturer can give you a recommendation. Material compatibility issues can damage the cam gear.

Use good quality assembly lube like that from Comp Cams, break in oil, and follow the manufacturer's cam break in procedure. Most hydraulic roller cams don't need a special break in IF you are not using stiff springs, but solid rollers with high spring pressures do require a special break in. I always replace the flat tappet lifters or the rollers on roller lifters when changing cams as at break in, the lifters and cam develop a distinctive wear pattern that may lead to more rapid wear when running used with new but see what the cam manufacturer has to say about used lifters on a new cam. Lifters ain't cheap but at least with roller lifters they can be rebuilt for less than new.

To eliminate any issues with the oil pump you can test it with an inexpensive pump priming tool and drill motor. Run the pump and check for normal cold idle oil pressure. If the pump is seizing or the shaft is broken you'll find it right quick before you fully assemble the engine and find a problem after it damages something.

[KDubU]

That really sucks, sorry this happened.

[Big Blocker]

Just my own thoughts on this but, that's a classic case of the wrong distributor gear to camshaft match . . . but in your case, backwards of the usual mismatch. Your cam is probably an iron cam (by someones mistake at the builders) matched to a steel distributor gear. Usually it's the other way around (steel cam, iron gear) and the distributor gear fails. Either way, this is going to involve an engine teardown to inspect everything for metal particles migrating to your pump, bearings (both rod and main).

Did the distributor come with the engine or have you installed your own choice of dizzy? There is a slight chance that the distributor [gear] was sitting too low and the gear was pressing on the land you can see just above the cam gear in your pictures. That would cause an extreme amount of "drag" on the gear / cam junction.

Sorry to hear about your troubles . . .

Doc

[Derald Rice]

Question.............

How can you confirm if a cam gear is iron or steel ??

Does it spark differently when it is touched to a grinding wheel ?

For lack of a better method, I have blindly relied on new cam gears with the mfgr's labeling

[sread]

I have a Roush 427 sitting on a stand in my shop that came from a Superformance car. It is probably about the same vintage. The story I got from the guy I bought it from is almost identical to yours. It had about 1500 miles on it and just quit one day. The cam gear looks exactly like that. They attributed it to a faulty heat treat of the cam. It is not an isolated incident. The entire engine needs to come apart and be cleaned and bearings replaced. Mine received some minor scoring in one cylinder but should still be quite usable. Man, that sucks to find out , but due to the time lapse you probably are SOL.

[Vspeeds]

I have a Roush 427 sitting on a stand in my shop that came from a Superformance car. It is probably about the same vintage. The story I got from the guy I bought it from is almost identical to yours. It had about 1500 miles on it and just quit one day. The cam gear looks exactly like that. They attributed it to a faulty heat treat of the cam. It is not an isolated incident. The entire engine needs to come apart and be cleaned and bearings replaced. Mine received some minor scoring in one cylinder but should still be quite usable. Man, that sucks to find out , but due to the time lapse you probably are SOL.

I havent spoken to Roush yet but A friend of mine just spoke to a Roush representative at the Goodguys car show in Pleasanton Ca. My friend explained my situation and the Roush guy recalled that a few years back there was a problem with some cams that broke. Not sure when that was though. Ill call Roush Monday but im not too optimistic about some sort of warranty. The engine number is 427-845.

[Vspeeds]

Question.............

How can you confirm if a cam gear is iron or steel ??

Does it spark differently when it is touched to a grinding wheel ?

For lack of a better method, I have blindly relied on new cam gears with the mfgr's labeling

Im not a mechanic but I’ve heard of the grinding wheel and different color sparks trick. Other than that I guess you would have to go with the specs from the cam manufacturer