GashF16's Gen 3 Coupe #187 Build: Engine Installed

[GashF16]

I pulled the trigger today! I decided to get this project going while my kids are still in high school so we can enjoy the build together. Completion date is September 21...way faster than I expected!

Since this is my first post, here's a little about me. I'm a retired US Air Force F-16 fighter pilot, now flying for an airline. I live in Phoenix, Arizona. I previously built a Vans RV-8 airplane (the photo with the WWII paint job). I'm currently flying an Extra 330LX (the red and white plane) in aerobatic contests around the country. I've done some airshow flying too. I know how to build airplanes, but this is my first race car build. I have a lot to learn and will be soaking up a ton of know-how from all of you smart folks here.

Engine / Trans will be a 2018 Coyote Gen 3 / T-56.

Here's what I ordered today. I'm considering deleting the FFR headers and J pipes and going with Boig Quietpipes if they make them for the Coupe. Otherwise, the only other thing I deleted was the seats. I'll probably go with the Corbeau Sportline Evolution X seats when I get to that point.

I'm wondering what things would be smart to add to the order right now. I'm very open to suggestions, ideas and general sanity checks on this list. (Sorry for the all-caps, that's how it copy/pasted from the order)

COUPE GEN 3 COMPLETE KIT
POWDER COATING GEN 3 COUPE CHASSIS
COUPE GPS GAUGE SET W/KIT
MODULAR 4.6/COYOTE ENG/TRANS MOUNT KIT
BOIG HEADERS & QUIET PIPES
31 SPLINE 2015 IRS 9.75" DRIVESHAFT
BODY CUT-OUTS
COYOTE POWER STEERING W/COMPLETE KIT
FRONT LOWER ARMS - STANDARD WIDTH
COUPE 2015 IRS PARTS W/COMPLETE KIT
GEN 3 COUPE COYOTE A/C KIT
COUPE WINDSHIELD WIPER ASSEMBLY
GEN 3 COUPE BLACK CARPET KIT
MOMO STEERING WHEEL
BREEZE AUTOMOTIVE STEERING QUICK DISCONNECT
SET OF TWO ALUMINUM INTERIOR HANDLES
SIDE WINDOW COMPONENTS
BATTERY CUT-OFF SWITCH
RDSTR FRONT SWAYBAR COMPS (4/14/15 +)
2015 IRS SWAYBAR COMPONENTS
COUPE NOSE SCOOPS
COYOTE INSTALLATION KIT
18X9/11" 5 LUG HALIBRAND REPLICA WHEELS
15” IRS KONI DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCK SET
2018 IRS 3.55 CENTER SECTION & SPINDLES
12.88" FRONT WILWOOD BRAKES-BLACK W/KIT
12.88" 2015 IRS WILWOOD BRAKE KIT-BLACK

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[q4stix]

Welcome!
It sounds like a good setup. I've heard mixed feelings about the wiper kit so see if you can look more into that. I went ahead and ordered it too with my kit but I'm undecided on installing it.

If you haven't already, check out EdwardB's build thread for his opinion on things and as a comparison (although you may already have)

Have fun and be sure to post as you build!

[edwardb]

Welcome, and congrats on your kit purchase! Your configuration is very similar to what I'm doing. Build thread in my sig line below. Obviously you're doing a Coyote. You don't mention whether Gen 2 or Gen 3. That will be a decision you'll need to make. I have two comments FWIW about your configuration:

(1) I highly recommend the Specialty Power Windows wiper setup versus the Lucas style setup Factory Five supplies in their wiper kit. I've done several of the Lucas style in Roadsters, so I'm very familiar with them. The Specialty Power Windows version is more robust, more adjustable, and way cheaper. Fits the Coupe perfectly. Details in my build thread.

(2) You mention "COYOTE FULL LENGTH BALL HEADERS ASSEMBLY" and also J-pipes. Those are kind of mutually exclusive. The full length headers, which are the better choice, bolt directly to the side pipes. No J-pipes. I'm a little interested in the description from your sales order including "BALL HEADERS." That sounds like the new design Dave Smith talked about on the 25 Anniversary Roadster video, which I happen to know is also being provided for the Coupe. They also have in the works, don't know if announced yet, upgraded SS twin-pipe Coupe headers. If that's something you're interested in, I'd be asking questions or at least make part of your decision path. The Boig parts are nice. It's a complete package of headers and sidepipes. Two things: They're steel and need some kind of finish. Also a single pipe and some (like me) prefer the more traditional Coupe twin-pipe design. Another option, which I talk about and show in my build thread, is a Coupe polished SS twin-pipe setup coming onto the market from Gas-N Performance. They are one of the premier suppliers for Roadster side pipes, and are developing Gen 3 Coupe side pipes.

Love your bio. Thank you for your service. Your RV-8 looks awesome and with that experience you should knock out the Coupe. That Extra is awesome too. I have a lifelong interest in aviation, although never pursued it. Our oldest son however did and is a professional pilot.

[Logan]

Welcome, GashF16, from a fellow aviator! ...although I only have my Private/PPL. It's too expensive a hobby for me to stay into for very long. I'd sure love to build my own plane!

Just over 7 weeks ago I received my Coupe-R kit, chassis #170, and have been slowly working on it. (Do you know your chassis number yet?) I have sunk so much time into researching parts that I haven't been able to crack the whip on the build yet. I'm also doing a Gen 3 Coyote with T56 Magnum and IRS.

To echo Edward's comment, there are a few exhaust setups from which to choose. I would not bother with the J-pipes... you have plenty of better options especially if you're going all new. I have the full length headers from FFR (made by GP Headers I believe), which bolt directly to the sidepipes. Now there seems to be a new ball-&-socket header from FFR which allows adjustability in all 3 axis to help get the best fit on the sidepipes, although with as many cars as have been built without these new headers they certainly aren't an absolute necessity. This is the first I'm hearing about FFR having designed a new stainless-steel twin-sidepipe..... VERY interested in these... !!

[GashF16]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll call over to FFR tomorrow to delete the Lucas wipers from the order. Thanks for the J pipes explanation. I will ask FFR about the upgraded SS twin-pipe Coupe headers, then will post here what I find out. Like you edwardb, I prefer the traditional twin-pipe look, so hopefully I can be an "early adopter" when FFR has it ready for primetime. If that's not a player, I'll see what Gas-N-Performance has coming to market.

Edwardb, to answer you question, I ordered a Gen 3 Coyote with the T-56 upgrade, Boss 302 intake, and I'm having FFR put it together. I wanted to stay mostly "plug and play" for this build. It seems like a great engine/trans combo. Someday when I become a repeat offender and do a second FFR build, I may venture out and get more creative.

I really appreciate the suggestions guys. Huge help. By the way, just a forum housekeeping question. I tried to add a profile photo and signature line, but the forum says access denied. Do you know how to contact a moderator so I can get permissions?

[edwardb]

Edwardb, to answer you question, I ordered a Gen 3 Coyote with the T-56 upgrade, Boss 302 intake, and I'm having FFR put it together. I wanted to stay mostly "plug and play" for this build. It seems like a great engine/trans combo. Someday when I become a repeat offender and do a second FFR build, I may venture out and get more creative.

I really appreciate the suggestions guys. Huge help. By the way, just a forum housekeeping question. I tried to add a profile photo and signature line, but the forum says access denied. Do you know how to contact a moderator so I can get permissions?

Really? Factory Five is offering the Gen 3 (2018+) Coyote? Hadn't heard that before. I've only heard they were selling Gen 2's (2015-2017). I have a Gen 3 Coyote in my Coupe build. Got it right when they came out as a crate package about one year ago. Has some differences, which I talk about in my build thread. There are no Gen 3 Coyote installation instructions from Factory Five that I'm aware of. A Boss 302 intake on a Gen 3 is an interesting choice as well. I agree completely the Boss intake is a big cosmetic improvement. But the 2018 stock intake was a big performance improvement over previous intakes, including the Boss 302, and you'll lose the CMCV system from the stock intake. Will require a custom tune, which is likely required in any case. You'll be the first that I've seen or heard of using that combination.

Your functionality is limited until you have more posts. At the bottom of the home page, in the border, is a link for "Contact Us." Explain your situation (new user, ordered a kit) and likely you can get an early permission.

[Logan]

One thing to note about the Cobra Jet or Boss intake manifolds... that high rise intake setup is what the 5.2L Aluminator crate engine comes equipped with. Several installs of that engine now, including the Joey Logano Snap-On Coupe-R and Surfdog57 (on the other forum).

You ordered a Gen 3 COUPE...... and most likely a Gen 2 COYOTE engine. However, a Gen 3 engine in a Gen 3 chassis does have a nice ring to it :)

[GashF16]

I called FFR to delete the wipers (thanks again edwardb). I also got some news on the headers. I was told that those ball headers in my order are the new design that edwardb mentioned above in this thread. All Gen 3 Coupe kits from now on will get these. The headers have a ball flange that gives you a little more wiggle room to get the right fit.

[Zlinman]

I too have done almost the same thing. Crazy thing is that I am a pro Vans aircraft builder/mechanic. Use to fly air shows and competition. My last contest was in an Extra 330 LC. Small world. Hoping to have my Coupe delivered by late Oct. ordered a Gen 3 Coyote with the Tremec 600. Can’t wait for this new adventure.

[GashF16]

Zinman, that's really cool! There must be a strong correlation between the desire to pull Gs in an airplane and build/drive a race car. I really dig this stuff. Looks like you and I are getting our cars delivered at roughly the same time. It'll be good to watch your build on here and get ideas!

[GashF16]

I had a great phone call with Bob Boig of Boig Autosports today. What a cool guy! I learned a lot about his Quiet Pipes, and after researching here on the the forum, I've decided to go with his Quiet Pipes instead of the FFR ball headers and pipes. Nothing against the FFR pipes at all, I am sure they're great. The main reason for my decision is that the Arizona Motorsports Park track by my house requires 96 dB(A) maximum at 50'. The sound readings others have posted here would indicate that I'd have a real problem with FFR pipes making the sound requirements for the local track (and perhaps some others in Arizona). My second reason for the switch is that Boig's pipes look really nice. From the photos I've seen, the workmanship looks top notch.

[Zlinman]

My friend Cathy in Tucson told me say hi. She flies “Poptart”. We are skydiving at Eloy this weekend. Hope to see your project on one of our trips down. Cheers

[Bob Brandle]

Welcome to the family GashF16!!! I'm appreciative of your service to the country and much impressed by your build skills having built a plane...and it flies!!

I'm located in Scottsdale and am currently approaching 1 year into my build of my Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe which is outfitted with very similar parts as what you've ordered from FFR and plan to order elsewhere.
For my Gen 3 Coupe, key things I have on hand are the Gen 2 Coyote+T56 Magnum 6-Speed as build by FFO, IRS, FFR supplied power steering, FFR A/C (a must here in AZ), Ford Mustang GT brakes though, Corbeau Evolution X seats, Boig Quietpipes, the FFR 18"x 9" & 11" Halibrand wheels, BFG Rival S tires (275 & 315), etc.
My car is currently in the "Back to the Future" phase where the sheet metal has been removed and is out for powder coat painting. You're more than welcome to come on over and check it all out and talk about whatever's on your mind about the Type 65 Coupe, parts selections, the build, etc.
My FFR Forums Build Thread is Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build. I've only input into it very early on, but it has my background and plans at that time. I do plan on a 1 year update very soon. Send me an e-mail if you're interested: bbrandle@hotmail.com

Bob

[GashF16]

My friend Cathy in Tucson told me say hi. She flies “Poptart”.

Hey small world! Say hi to Cathy. We need to go fly some formation one of these days. Eloy is always a good meet up for a breakfast burrito and a 4-ship formation flight.

[GashF16]

Welcome to the family GashF16!!! I'm appreciative of your service to the country and much impressed by your build skills having built a plane...and it flies!!

I'm located in Scottsdale and am currently approaching 1 year into my build of my Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe which is outfitted with very similar parts as what you've ordered from FFR and plan to order elsewhere.
For my Gen 3 Coupe, key things I have on hand are the Gen 2 Coyote+T56 Magnum 6-Speed as build by FFO, IRS, FFR supplied power steering, FFR A/C (a must here in AZ), Ford Mustang GT brakes though, Corbeau Evolution X seats, Boig Quietpipes, the FFR 18"x 9" & 11" Halibrand wheels, BFG Rival S tires (275 & 315), etc.
My car is currently in the "Back to the Future" phase where the sheet metal has been removed and is out for powder coat painting. You're more than welcome to come on over and check it all out and talk about whatever's on your mind about the Type 65 Coupe, parts selections, the build, etc.
My FFR Forums Build Thread is Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build. I've only input into it very early on, but it has my background and plans at that time. I do plan on a 1 year update very soon. Send me an e-mail if you're interested: bbrandle@hotmail.com

Bob

Thank you so much Bob! I will definitely take you up on that. It'll be great to see another Coupe build up close and to learn from your experiences so far. I'll shoot you an email right now.

[jetheft]

Gash,
Good luck my friend. I finished my roadster last fall and had a blast building and really enjoy the roadster.

Probably haven’t seen you since the SPIKES. Hope all is well!

Beef

[GashF16]

Thanks Beef! Small world indeed. All is well here. I just searched your posts for pics of your Roadster. AMAZING! That interior is sweet. When I get to that point, I'll have to pick your brain on interior ideas. The workmanship on your Roadster is over the top!

[GashF16]

I'm just doing things around the garage to get ready for the delivery at the end of this month (!) Other than tooling up, building a couple of nice work benches, and installing air conditioning in my garage, I'm spending a lot of time thinking about what to change on my order. Here's what I've done so far:

- Deleted FFR steering wheel; getting the Momo Eagle steering wheel. The flat bottom of their wheel will work better with my legs in the cockpit
- Deleted FFR seats; getting Corbeau Sportline Evolution X. I had a chance to sit in Bob Brandle's seats in his build and they are nice
- Deleted FFR headers and side pipes; getting Boig Quiet Pipes (mentioned in this thread above)
- Deleted FFR wipers; getting Specialty Power Windows WWK2 Complete Universal Wiper Drive Kit
- Deleted FFR cable clutch; getting the FFR hotrod hydraulic clutch / reservoir instead...and here's where I have a question. Is this a good choice, or should I go with a hydraulic clutch from Forte? I have no idea what the differences are. Does anybody have any experience with this?

- I'm also considering deleting the FFR fuel tank and having them send a fuel cell cage like on the Roadsters. Then I could get a Fuel Safe fuel cell to work in there. This would require some modification, and I'm not sure if the "juice is worth the squeeze". Anybody else doing something like this?

[edwardb]

Three responses to your latest post:

- Momo steering wheels are very nice quality, and a flat bottom is a good alternative to a removable steering wheel. Just be aware the Factory Five hub/steering wheel is a non-standard pattern. This is talked about quite a bit. You'll have some work to do to match that steering wheel to existing parts.

- I'm not familiar with the FFR Hot Rod hydraulic clutch setup. Didn't even know they offered something like that. But based on the description: "34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit (requires customer supplied slave cylinder and hydraulic throw-out bearing)," not clear what is provided other than clarifying it's a hydraulic throw-out bearing arrangement. So to your question, the Forte hydraulic clutch setup uses a standard Ford throw-out bearing and clutch arm. Then instead of a cable pulling the clutch arm, Forte provides a hydraulically actuated slave cylinder that pushes the clutch arm. I've used his kit a couple times, and it works fine. For my Coupe I did go with a hydraulic throw-out bearing setup. Specifically a Tilton 6000 series Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB) part number 60-6104. It was easy to install and based on testing and a couple miles of preliminary driving, very happy with how it works. Smooth and noticeably less effort than the Forte setup in my #8674 Roadster. Some question the reliability and how much has to be taken apart in the event a hydraulic release bearing should fail. But taking a shot at it.

- Plenty of opinions, but I personally wouldn't mess with a fuel cell unless you plan on tracking the car and it's required by rule. Much higher cost, complication, filler arrangement, plus you would need to replace the bladder per schedule to keep it legal. For street cruising, even autocross, the standard Mustang tank is fine IMO.

[P100DHG]

- Deleted FFR steering wheel; getting the Momo Eagle steering wheel. The flat bottom of their wheel will work better with my legs in the cockpit


I too was heading in this direction and the credit is tempting but just to have it while you build the car I thought it was worth having around. Poor Dave B at FFR deleted and re-added many items to my order. Also Russ Thompson gave me some solid advice about the FFR hub he said he would redrill and tap the wholes for me at a later date for a MOMO wheel though I don’t think there is anything special involved so I’ll likely do it myself but I’ll figure that whole think out way way later in the build.

If you plan on doing stainless fuel lines, I’d delete the hard fuel lines just cause frankly they are a waste of material and go stainless with AN fittings. I found the FFR supplied brake lines to be good, and easy to bend and where I shortened on I found them easy to flare.

I plan to use Cooltubes by Boig so maybe delete radiator hoses too if you’re planning to do the same.

I like the FFR brake reservoirs I added one to my kit so my front and rear brakes are fully independent and if you’re doing a hydraulic clutch I’d add a third to the order.

[GashF16]

Good tips guys, thanks. And edwardb, thanks for taking the time to look up part numbers. I notice that you do that a lot in the forum, and it's such a huge help. That extra effort is much appreciated.

[edwardb]

And edwardb, thanks for taking the time to look up part numbers. I notice that you do that a lot in the forum, and it's such a huge help. That extra effort is much appreciated.

You're welcome. Thanks for the comments. But truth be known I keep detailed spreadsheets of the contents of my builds. Previous IT career habits still at work. So most of the time I'm just cutting and pasting. Multiple forum members have said how helpful it is, so happy to accommodate.

[Spike68]

Gash...
Spike here..., I’m envious of your RV8 experience. I flew Vipers and am currently in the Dreamliner out of LAX. MY wife said choose between the RV or the Coupe. I am planning on going to build school as I don’t have the same practical expertise you have after completing a 2500 hour aircraft project. After completing this project she might soften on the next.
I am new to this forum today and have some basic questions that I would feel comfortable asking a fellow Viper driver

Spike

[GashF16]

I am new to this forum today and have some basic questions...

Hi Spike, shoot me a PM here with your email and I'll get in touch. Be warned though, I know next to nothing about building a car. I do know my way around a shop and tools, so I hope to learn fast. And there are certain builder truisms that apply to everything: 1) There's nothing you break or screw up that can't be fixed, fabricated or removed and replaced. 2) You're going to drill a hole in yourself at some point. Hopefully you're using a small bit when it happens, so it hurts less. (That's probably more for airplanes...LOTS of drilling). 3) The lazy man works the hardest. 4) A simple plan is worth a pound of flesh and a thousand hours.

[GashF16]

My Coupe and engine are finished and waiting for Stewart Transportation to pick up! Stewart tells me to expect delivery around October 15, so another 3 weeks to go. In the meantime, I've been busy getting the garage shop all set up. Here's the progress so far:

1. I installed 12 ea. 5000K LED shop lights in the ceiling of my 2-car garage. It's going to be ludicrously bright in there. You can never have too much light in the shop.
2. I built 2 work benches that are battleship strong, better than anything you'd ever find in a store, and will be around a hundred years from now. The plans are available here (http://eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm). Highly recommended.
3. Got my Boig Quiet Pipes in the mail this week. They look great. I'll get them ceramic powder coated in a couple weeks.
4. Got my Wilwood brakes in the mail too.
5. Bought a new Scotch Brite wheel for the grinder. There's no excuse for burrs on aluminum edges or sharp corners.
6. Finally, the most important thing of all for this Phoenix kid: air conditioning. I installed a 2-ton mini split AC unit in the garage. I was bored, so did it the hard way. Instead of just drilling a hole in the wall and feeding an ugly line set down the outside of my garage, I cut out drywall and did an internal line set. I'm also taking the opportunity to do some 220V wiring around the garage, because who doesn't want more 220V outlets, right?

I'm really looking forward to the Stewart delivery so that I can stop puttering around an empty shop and start asking lots of stupid questions!

[Bob Brandle]

Karl,
That's GREAT that your kit is ready for pickup by Stewart! A key milestone!! I was going to mention to you that it'll be about three weeks until delivery after your kit is ready. So much depends on loading up the Stewart truck and it's timing, etc. Plus Arizona is usually in the second half of deliveries, even though Stewart's home base is in Phoenix!!

Nice to have large LED shop lights, mine are working out wonderfully.

I'd recommend that you wait on the ceramic coating of the headers and sidepipes until after you've done a trial fitting of them with the engine in the car and body on too. You never know what slight tweeks to the metal or added/adjusted hangers might be needed or desired. Once ceramic coated that's likely not possible. There's no rush here in Arizona to coat or paint them with our low humidity as long as you keep them dry. Keep them in their packaging.

Not to make a specific vendor recommendation, but I'm planning on checking out "Affordable Powder Coating Co." in Phoenix for my Boig Quietpipes ceramic Cerakote coating in Glacier Silver.

FYI, I haven't done much on my coupe the past few weeks having rolled my foot and ankle. I'm just now getting back to being able to walk, gingerly.

Bob

[GashF16]

Bob, thanks for the tip to wait on coating headers and side pipes. Makes sense. In fact, I think I'll wait to see what yours look like when finished. Affordable Powder Coating Co: is that the same as the business card I took a picture of when I was at your place?

Glad you're back to walking again! Rolling an ankle is no bueno.

[Bob Brandle]

Karl,
Different companies. The one you have the bus card photo of is great at regular powder coating, but they don't do the high temp. ceramic coating. FYI, they have a supply on hand (waiting for you?) of Satin Black that matches the FFR chassis Satin Black.
Bob

[GashF16]

The long wait is over, and my delivery was yesterday. I’m trekking in Peru right now, so my neighbor was nice enough to meet the Stewart driver and get everything into my garage. I wish the timing could have worked out better to be home for the delivery, but this works too. As soon as I get home from hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, I will launch into the inventory. Now I have something to think about besides my bowl of hot llama milk while sitting at 14,000 feet in the Andes. Here are some pics from my neighbor. Satellite internet is a beautiful thing!

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[David Williamson]

Now the fun really starts. Sounds like you have a really "rough" life style .... I like it, keep it up.
David W

[Bob Brandle]

CONGRATULATIONS Karl!!! Wonderful trekking trip you're on and now you've got even more exciting fun waiting for your when you return.
Looking forward to checking it out with you and providing assistance.

Bob

[GashF16]

I'm home from my trip and just spent the last 2 days doing inventory and figuring out how to stay organized. It's no small task, but I think it was time well spent. I have 8 items missing, 1 damaged aluminum panel (I think so, see photo below, and 20 items on the POL. The KONI front and rear shocks, as well as the 9.75" drive shaft are among the POL items, so that'll probably end up slowing me down in the early stages. I need to box up all the small metal parts that I want powder coated...hopefully I can remember what box they go in when they come back!

From here on, I'm going to try to keep a steady pace. Nothing too crazy, but my son and I are going to do our best to do something everyday, however small it may be. It seems like managing time, expectations, and the occasional frustration are the keys to completion.

My impression from the manual is that it could really use more photos. There were several brackets, hangars, etc. in the parts inventory that need to have a corresponding photo in the manual, or at least have a part number written on them. I am sort of in the dark on some of these items, so they remain in good old "Box 24", the home of all the loose stuff FFR threw at the last minute so it wouldn't get POL'd. Anyway, as the build progresses, if I can't figure out what some items are, I'll probably ask here with photos.

Edit: Thanks edwardb for showing me how to get full sized photos into my posts!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116912&d=1572464335
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116906&d=1572464208
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116911&d=1572464320
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116910&d=1572464312
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116908&d=1572464285
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116907&d=1572464219

[edwardb]

Good progress. You're off to a great start. Some comments. Missing shocks won't hold you up for a really long time. Like until it's time to drive basically. You can completely build the suspensions without them, and they can be bolted on most any time. Tried to figure out how that aluminum piece got bent like that. Wierd. But that's tucked completely up under the dash and you'd never find it in a completed build. If it flattens back out without cracking, which I bet it would since it's not a sharp bend, I'd use it without hesitation. I personally would find a different way to store those glass pieces. Neither are cheap, especially the hatch glass. Makes me nervous just looking at the picture. IMO, spend a few minutes cleaning up those metal parts before powder coating. I especially try to sand/file off all the little nibs left behind from being cut out. By all means, post pictures of any parts you can't figure out. Bunch of us have seen all of them by now, and know what most of them are. :p There are several ways to do pictures. I used to use Photobucket, but for my Coupe, the build thread is done using the forum's image gallery. Instructions here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts. There are a few steps, but goes quickly once you get the hang of it. Enjoy!

[David Williamson]

Totally agree, just bend that aluminum back and move on. Its in a spot you will never see.
David W

[GashF16]

I got started assembling components today for real. It's been a long wait to get to this point. All the aluminum panels are out, so here we go! And right off the bat I had my first head scratcher..."where in the world is the hardware to mount the power steering rack? #*@!" Turns out, the sleeves, bolts, nuts and washers are in Box 1i, but the bushings and rack are in Box 18. I felt stupid, but had to call FFR to ask where to find everything. I previously read the inventory sheets, but somehow glossed right over the parts in the first box. Doh! Anyway, FFR was cool about it on the phone. Nice guys. I'm writing this to maybe save somebody else the same dumb phone call.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116969&d=1572589119
Square One!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116985&d=1572634005
Off to the local powder coat place...they're going to be getting lots of business from me!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116964&d=1572589062
I installed 15 very bright LED lights, making it brighter than daylight in here. This is by far the best garage upgrade you can do.

[Bob Brandle]

Great to see that you're back and now well underway with the build!
Good looking garage shop. Check out my build thread for a photo to see how I I.D.'d and organized the parts going out for powder coating.
Agree with EdwardB, remove the laser-cut nub, break all edges and remove any welding splatter, perfect jobs for your build buddy. Same breaking of edges can be advised for the sheet metal pieces that are removed. There are some really razor sharp burrs on some of the cuts.

Bob

[GashF16]

Bob, good points on taking care of the sharp edges on metal parts, especially things that were laser cut. I have a Scotchbrite wheel on my bench grinder that works perfectly for this, especially aluminum sheet metal. I had to be really meticulous about edge burr removal when building the airplane, since the burrs can cause stress risers and lead to cracking. So now running everything across the Scotchbrite wheel is just second nature for me. We haven't been cut by any metal yet, but I did drop the power steering rack on my finger and now have a big purple fingernail. It's a "builder's badge of honor" I guess. I'm heading over to your build thread to see how you stayed organized with the metal pieces. Thanks for the inputs!

[GashF16]

I'm getting ready to put on my 1" Eibach rear wheel spacers, same ones edwardb used. I see in his thread that I need to cut off the ends of my FF studs to be able to mount my wheels. edwardb, if you read this...how much did you cut off? Just the end part of the studs where there's no thread, or did you go deeper with the cuts, into the threads? I'd like to do the stud cutting now before I press them in. Easier this way, and I'm hoping to only need to cut once.

[edwardb]

I'm getting ready to put on my 1" Eibach rear wheel spacers, same ones edwardb used. I see in his thread that I need to cut off the ends of my FF studs to be able to mount my wheels. edwardb, if you read this...how much did you cut off? Just the end part of the studs where there's no thread, or did you go deeper with the cuts, into the threads? I'd like to do the stud cutting now before I press them in. Easier this way, and I'm hoping to only need to cut once.

Yes, you need to cut them off so they are below the outside surface of the spacers. My kit came with two different configuration studs that were different lengths. Plus I don't remember exactly how much I cut them and didn't record it. I messed up and got to do one side over as you may have read in my build thread. Because of the different studs which I compounded by not being careful enough. I'm not sure it would be any easier to cut them when loose as opposed to after installed. That way you can confirm the exact amount needed to be lopped off.

[GashF16]

[QUOTE=edwardb;386988. I'm not sure it would be any easier to cut them when loose as opposed to after installed. That way you can confirm the exact amount needed to be lopped off.[/QUOTE]

In this case I think you’re right. In the spirit of “measure twice and cut once” looks like its best to get all the parts and pieces stacked together and then go at it with an angle grinder to get the underlying studs flush with the spacer surface.

[NAZ]

Karl, consider this when deciding how to cut the studs. If you cut them before installing them you can easily dress the end of the threads on your belt sander. Not so easy when the studs are pressed into the hubs. If you don't dress the end you cut it will be difficult to spin a nut on the stud. If you use a angle grinder to cut them when installed you are more likely to damage the mounting surface of the spacer depending on the spacer configuration you're using.

Threads are cut on a 60-deg inclusive angle so you can easily dress the the cut end by carefully sanding the rough edge while holding the stud at a 30-deg angle to the sanding belt. I typically use a portaband or band-saw for cutting threaded fasteners or all-thread as it makes a cleaner cut than a cutoff wheel and easier to control. Just a tip from a very old machinist.

[Bob Brandle]

Karl,
Here's a photo of my finished and installed 1" spacer ring and bolts. I chose to assemble and mount everything to essentially as shown, measure or magic marker mark the bolts at the cut off points, then remove the 1" spacer, nuts and very carefully hacksaw off the ends of the bolts to the markets lengths. File smooth the bolt ends and threads and remount everything to as shown. Hacksawing with a new blade isn't really that bad. Doing it this way you get the exact bolt length desired, slightly recessed below the spacer surface.

Yes, I know, ignore the standard Mustang GT Brake calipers, painted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117023&d=1572717941

[P100DHG]

I'm getting ready to put on my 1" Eibach rear wheel spacers, same ones edwardb used. I see in his thread that I need to cut off the ends of my FF studs to be able to mount my wheels. edwardb, if you read this...how much did you cut off? Just the end part of the studs where there's no thread, or did you go deeper with the cuts, into the threads? I'd like to do the stud cutting now before I press them in. Easier this way, and I'm hoping to only need to cut once.

I ordered these. No cutting necessary https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIV2WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Results shown here. I have a picture of how they turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=360775&viewfull=1#post360775

But it looks like cutting them is very effective.

I am feeling your enthusiasm and excitement reading your thread! Congrats on the car and the build to come.

[GashF16]

Thanks so much guys for all the tips and links. Very helpful!

NAZ, that's some great advice, much appreciated.
Bob, I didn't see that you replied before I called you. Thanks for letting me interrupt you at the restaurant!
P100DHG, thanks for the Amazon link. I ordered the shorter studs...cheap(ish) and one less thing to mess with.

So now here's my forehead slap of the day. Before all my questions here this morning, I figured I'd press in a stud using my handy dandy 12-ton hydraulic press. Crank-crank-crank-done. The stud went in like butter. Easy right? Well when I looked at the hub surface, there's a slight 1mm or less warp in the surface because I didn't have sufficient arbor support in the press. The stud is not tilted; it's still perpendicular to the surface. I'm not sure if I need to throw it away and buy a new hub assembly, or if it's okay to use, especially since a spacer will be on top of it all, thus keeping a flat surface in contact with the back of the wheel when it's torqued on. Thoughts?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117051&d=1572740371

I'm going to hammer out the stud and wait for the shorter studs to come from Amazon. Meanwhile, my 16-year old son is laughing at me. He says he now gets a "freebie" if he screws something up during the build since right now it's Dad: 1 / Son: 0

[edwardb]

So now here's my forehead slap of the day. Before all my questions here this morning, I figured I'd press in a stud using my handy dandy 12-ton hydraulic press. Crank-crank-crank-done. The stud went in like butter. Easy right? Well when I looked at the spindle surface, there's a slight 1mm or less warp in the surface because I didn't have sufficient arbor support in the press. The stud is not tilted; it's still perpendicular to the surface. I'm not sure if I need to throw it away and buy a new spindle, or if it's okay to use, especially since a spacer will be on top of it all, thus keeping a flat surface in contact with the back of the wheel when it's torqued on. Thoughts?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117051&d=1572740371

I'm going to hammer out the stud and wait for the shorter studs to come from Amazon. Meanwhile, my 16-year old son is laughing at me. He says he now gets a "freebie" if he screws something up during the build since right now it's Dad: 1 / Son: 0

Looks like you posted an attachment? Maybe of the hub? But nothing is showing up. To be honest, it's hard for me to imagine that the pressure required to press in those studs would be enough to bend the face of the hub. Even if not supported. They're pretty stout. But anything's possible I guess. If it really is distorted, I personally wouldn't use it. That's a great big road grader of a wheel/tire mounted back there, and you want it running as true as possible. I personally wouldn't trust that the spacer would sit true if the mating surface isn't. At least not without further checking or measurements. And I'm not sure what that would be. The replacement hub is Ford part number FR3Z-1104-G, and roughly a $120 part. I've had lessons learned more expensive that that. By a lot...

[GashF16]

Here's the slightly bent hub face. You have to look at the lines on the side to see how they have a little wave in them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117064&d=1572758434

And here's a non-bent face for comparison.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117065&d=1572758445

You know what edwardb, I think I'm just going to buy a new hub/bearing assembly. I'm planning on driving this car fast on the track, and I don't want to have this little defect in the back of my mind all the time. Besides, I didn't drop this kind of coin on a race car just so that I could save $120 on a pretty important part.

[NAZ]

I agree, that hub is trash. When pressing the studs in use some oil on the knurl to help reduce the force required to seat them.

[edwardb]

Absolutely. Replace the hub. I'm still surprised it was able to be bent like that. A press is a nice way to put the studs in I guess. But obviously needs to be done with proper support. Also stopping once seated. My guess is pressure was continued in this case after the stud was all the way in. Having done these several times, as I said before, it's just hard to imagine the force required to push the knurl through the hole is enough to bend the hub itself. Lube isn't a bad idea either. I don't have a press, and pull them in with an air driver, washer, sacrificial hardened nut (e.g. not one of the actual lug nuts), and a liberal dose of chassis grease on the washer and nut. They pull right in.

[GashF16]

Making progress the last few days and I've come up with a couple of questions:

1. The M14-2.0 100mm bolts supplied by FFR for the center section rear mounts are too short to go all the way through the chassis bushings and then through the rear mounts on the center section. I looked in my boxes for something longer, but these bolts were specifically called out in the "rear differential" packing list. Can't figure out why FFR sent 100mm bolts. I just drove all over town looking for something at least 120mm long, but nobody in Phoenix stocks bolts longer than 100mm. Has anybody else run into this problem with too-short bolts?

2. There are no nuts provided with the bolts to attach the rear hubs to the knuckles. Is that correct? No nuts required here?

I bought a new rear hub to replace the one I bent. The bent hub will be used for a future woodworking project. I think I'll use it to make a lazy susan round tabletop for my wife. Update on studs for the rear hubs that needed to be shorter for my 1" spacer: I ordered 10 ea. Dorman Wheel Studs part no. 610-364 from Summit Racing. Perfect fit, no cutting required.

[NAZ]

McMaster-Carr is a good source for fasteners mail order https://www.mcmaster.com/91280a798 and Copper State Nut & Bolt is a great local source (there are at least three stores in the Valley) or Fastenall.

[GashF16]

McMaster-Carr is a good source for fasteners mail order https://www.mcmaster.com/91280a798 and Copper State Nut & Bolt is a great local source (there are at least three stores in the Valley) or Fastenall.

Thanks for that McMaster-Carr link--I ordered a couple. Also, I stopped by Copperstate this morning, but their M14 bolts only go to 90mm. I was surprised, since Copperstate has always had everything I need. Have a good weekend!

[edwardb]

1. The rear M14-2.0 x 100mm bolts go through the chassis bushings and into the threaded mounting ears on the diff rear cover. They should engage nearly all the threads in the mounting ears. But don't go through or require nuts on the other side. None are called out in the instructions or listed on the inventory sheet. Both of which I've found are usually accurate. The longer M16-2.0 x 130mm bolts on the front mounts do go all the way through and use the provided deformed thread locknuts. I've done a couple of this style IRS, and never had to replace any hardware. Plus it's a bit specialized as you've found out.

2. Nope. No nuts on the knuckle to hub assembly. Just the provided flange head bolts. Should have come with the knuckle/hub. The two sets I've received were already assembled. Sounds like yours weren't.

[GashF16]

1. The rear M14-2.0 x 100mm bolts go through the chassis bushings and into the threaded mounting ears on the diff rear cover. They should engage nearly all the threads in the mounting ears. But don't go through or require nuts on the other side. None are called out in the instructions or listed on the inventory sheet. Both of which I've found are usually accurate. The longer M16-2.0 x 130mm bolts on the front mounts do go all the way through and use the provided deformed thread locknuts. I've done a couple of this style IRS, and never had to replace any hardware. Plus it's a bit specialized as you've found out.

2. Nope. No nuts on the knuckle to hub assembly. Just the provided flange head bolts. Should have come with the knuckle/hub. The two sets I've received were already assembled. Sounds like yours weren't.

Ah! Okay, thanks Paul. That makes sense since there are threaded ears on the rear diff. The thing that threw me off is that I have 4 ea. of the deformed thread locknuts instead of 2, and 2 of them are smaller to fit the M14 bolt (or so I assumed...I guess they're for something else). Anyway, mystery solved and back to work. Break time is over!

[GashF16]

Quick update. Front and rear suspension is complete, except for the rear swaybar...still waiting for missing bushings and bushing mounts. I'll take some photos of everything underneath after I get the rear swaybar on. I'm now 1 month into the build, and find myself slowing down a bit since I'm still waiting for FFR to send the fuel tank and a few other things. I'm doing some jump ahead miscellaneous things like the e-brake, etc. just to stay busy, but I feel like I'll be more "back on track" once I get my fuel system parts. I did receive the missing shocks and coils last week, so it was nice to install those and have a more "completed" look.

Just like everyone else here, getting the IRS parts to fit in the tabs was a real PIA. But with lots of patience and creativity, we were able to make it happen. It's very satisfying to have the IRS all done. One thing that concerns me is the alignment. I followed FFR's rough alignment measurements, but it all looks pretty wonky right now. Looks like I will have a good excuse to go learn how to do wheel alignments.

Anyway, photos to follow later. I also started a separate "Build Questions" thread so I can keep all my new guy dumb questions in one place.

[edwardb]

One thing that concerns me is the alignment. I followed FFR's rough alignment measurements, but it all looks pretty wonky right now. Looks like I will have a good excuse to go learn how to do wheel alignments.

Don't read too much into what the alignment looks like when hanging at full droop. Will look different when up at ride height. Plus when the alignment is really dialed in versus the approximate settings at this stage.

[jwhit]

any more progress

[GashF16]

Hey guys, I've been making steady progress but haven't taken the time to upload photos and updates. Here are a few photos. Suspension is done. Fuel and brake lines done. Lots of sheet metal / powder coating / sound proofing done. Got a good start on the air conditioning. Lots of other small things getting done, as you can see from the photos. I haven't really run into any big questions since my last update, but I did just post up a question in my Questions thread (engine mounts and spacers are missing...grrrr). Anyway, I'm just plugging along and getting something small done every day. I'm loving the build, and it's always nice to stand back and admire things after they're installed.

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[Logan]

Looks good. You have the chassis at “Race” height... which is typically only desirable for a track-only car since it will be <3” off the ground. If this is going to be driven on the street, recommended to raise the chassis by using the lower holes.

Keep up the good work!

[Jimtmich]

Looking great! Thanks for posting the pictures.

[edwardb]

Looks good. You have the chassis at “Race” height... which is typically only desirable for a track-only car since it will be <3” off the ground. If this is going to be driven on the street, recommended to raise the chassis by using the lower holes.

Actually, the instructions for those dual action Koni shocks are to put them in the upper holes. Apparently they're slightly longer than the stock red Koni's. But the suspension is still at the normal street height. I have the same ones on my build and did the same thing.

[Logan]

Ah yes! I should have noted the silver color instead of red. You are 100% correct, disregard my suggestion of switching the holes.

Carry on!

[GashF16]

LOL, thanks guys. I had a few "oh crap" seconds there. I do appreciate the extra eyeballs looking at the details.

[GashF16]

I'm exactly at the 6-month point in my build. My 2018 Gen 3 Coyote with Boss 302 intake manifold is now installed. It's a tight fit, but it does go in if you talk to it nicely. We had 5 people during the installation (me on the crane, my wife and youngest son in front, one son underneath the car, and one son guiding the trans from the top). It was a good family project. Things worth noting about the Gen 3 Coyote (as discussed in other threads as well): you need to disconnect the steering rod, otherwise the alternator hits it. I also had to remove the gauge from the FPR because the engine was hitting it. Of course, this depends on where you decide to mount the FPR. Keep an eye on the starter underneath the passenger side, since it's easy to hit it on the engine mount when going down and in. Finally, the FFR manual shows an additional transmission mount adapter between the rubber mount and the transmission. That is not needed...the rubber mount holes will not line up with the frame mount if the adapter is used.

The Boss 302 intake manifold sits pretty high. I'm hoping to have enough body clearance without cutting it. Has anybody else seen a Coyote with Boss intake? How's the fit? I figured I'd ask here before putting the front on to see for myself. I'm also wondering what kind of coil covers are out there for the Gen 3 Coyote with a Boss intake. I did some light Googling, but didn't find anything. Any ideas you guys have would be helpful.

Now I'm just waiting on parts to build the tee for the oil pressure sender (as shown in the *new* FFR Gen 3 Coyote manual). Those parts were not included in my complete kit, probably since Ford Performance didn't tell FFR that the stock oil pressure sender is supposed to stay in. No big deal. I'm good at waiting for parts. I'll get started on the power steering today. I ordered a PS cooler, braided lines and hose ends from Breeze Automotive. Thanks edwardb for the pics and suggestions on that. Mark at Breeze was super helpful as usual.

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[edwardb]

Congratulations! That's a big step. For the whole family. Cool they're participating. I think that clearance could be challenging. I set the nose on mine during the initial engine mock-up and snapped several pictures including this one. I was mainly focused on the throttle body and whether the silicone elbow would have room. Which they did. This of course with the stock manifold. What I can see by comparing this picture to yours is the top of the LH heater/radiator T connection is roughly the same height as the throttle body top. Which is roughly three inches from the underside of the nose. Your manifold appears to be much higher than that. I don't know... Before you get to deep into it, I'd sure recommend setting the nose on there and see what you've got.

Curious why the Boss 302 intake? While I know it's not beautiful (!!) the stock 2018+ manifold is one of the best performing ones out there. Many are modding it to their previous gen Coyotes. I've not see any coil covers for the Gen 3 Coyote. Hard to imagine there would be with all the congestion on both sides. My strategy was the same as what Ford did with their cover, and that was to overhang the heads enough to make them a little less conspicuous.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0781.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/4340abd9-d741-43b9-af04-a1aecb18bf60)

[P100DHG]

I don't know... Before you get to deep into it, I'd sure recommend setting the nose on there and see what you've got.


Was your body on when you test fitted your nose? His appears to be off... should he put the body on as well? May save a step if it doesn’t need to be or add a step if it does.

If this boss manifold is too tall I’m super screwed with my air cleaner... good hood R&D guys thanks

I quick search for coil covers and plenum covers turned up theses... Might work but it's an expensive gamble.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-mustang-r2650-supercharger-coil-covers-422161.html

[GashF16]

Curious why the Boss 302 intake?

When I ordered the engine + transmission combo from FFR last year, I had the idea that the Boss 302 intake manifold could get me some more horsepower. But months later, after reading dyno matchups of the leading intakes (https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dyno-every-ford-coyote-intake-manifold-on-gen-3-crate/) (GT 350, 2018 Gen 3, Boss 302, Cobra) it looks like I probably won't gain anything compared to the OE Gen 3 manifold. So I think you're right, I may have paid the extra $ for a pretty face with the same performance. Oh well, at least I get to have my fuel rails installed backwards. :rolleyes: (yes, the fuel rails have to be put on backwards for proper fitment).

[GashF16]

Was your body on when you test fitted your nose? His appears to be off... should he put the body on as well? May save a step if it doesn’t need to be or add a step if it does.

If this boss manifold is too tall I’m super screwed with my air cleaner... good hood R&D guys thanks

I quick search for coil covers and plenum covers turned up theses... Might work but it's an expensive gamble.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-mustang-r2650-supercharger-coil-covers-422161.html

I'll let you guys know about the fit when I get a chance to put the nose on. After a second look tonight, I might be alright. From the side, I see that the top of the Boss 302 manifold is about level with the top of the dash. I might be okay here. Also, thanks for that link. The Googling force is strong with you. I'll give those guys a call tomorrow to see if that might fit on my setup.

[edwardb]

Was your body on when you test fitted your nose? His appears to be off... should he put the body on as well? May save a step if it doesn’t need to be or add a step if it does.

I quick search for coil covers and plenum covers turned up theses... Might work but it's an expensive gamble.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-mustang-r2650-supercharger-coil-covers-422161.html

No, I didn't have the main body on when I took that picture. I had the radiator tunnel in place with the bulb seal so the hood sat on that. Had the firewall and dash pieces installed, also with bulb seal, and had blankets on top of the engine (visible in the pic) holding the back side up close to where it would sit if the body was there. Judged by the height of the firewall/dash that it sits on top of. Checked again later when everything was together (no pictures looking underneath) and the clearance was very nearly the same. So the mock-up was reasonable.

Hadn't seen those 2018+ coil covers. Anything from Roush is going to be pricey. Seems purpose made for the their supercharger setup, so not sure if they could be modified. But sure seems like there would be a market for something like that even with a modded stock cover or other intake options.

[GashF16]

Here's a video of the final dyno pull today at Speed Sports in Gilbert, AZ. I don't have any numbers yet. I really like my Bob Boig Quiet Pipes.

It's been way too long since I've posted here! Since I last checked in on the forum, I got rid of the Boss 302 intake, went back to the stock Gen 3 Coyote intake, and have been getting great help from AZ Cobras (one of the FFR forum sponsors) with the electrical system. Jason at AZ Cobras is an electrical genius...I don't know any other way to describe him. His ideas and solutions are amazing.

I'm looking forward to getting going on the body. Lots more to go on this build!



https://youtu.be/e6JOZPRI9ZM

[Logan]

Hey Karl, any updates on your build? What are the results from the dyno session in the video above? Have you fitted the body yet?