Blade's 33 build

[Blade]

I got my FFR 33 delivered on July 18th. It took more than a couple days for inventory. So many other distractions. I started on some of the powder coating about a week ago. I bought the oven for 30 bucks off craigslist. I practiced on a couple of other things first and then dove in. Along the way I tried to polish the firewall to a mirror finish, total fail. I watched a youtube on how to do it, came out badly. Then I realized why. I would never be able to keep it clean. So I researched what and why the early hotrodders did turned aluminum and I knew it was right. Tell me what you'all think. The brake calipers where pretty easy, disassembled, cleaned, powder and cook. The upper and lowers where a little more complicated in that I had to get the grease out. The first coat is black then Ultimate Chrome...came out more like shiny silver. I still like it. Tough as nails. Brake clean is a blessing. 111935111936111937111938111939111940

[JimLev]

Looks good. It must have taking you a while to do the firewall.
I didn't turn mine but I did put this on it, it's not cheap but after all the effort you put into the firewall this will protect it.
https://www.eastwood.com/exoarmour.html

[FF33rod]

Welcome! Look forward to seeing more of your build.
Steve

[HVACMAN]

Welcome Blade. Looks like your off to a good start.

[progmgr1]

How did you do the engine turning on the firewall? It looks great in that photo!
Keith HR#894

[sread]

I like it - planning on doing the same to mine. That looks just like a test sample that I tried using 2 inch scotchbrite pads

[Blade]

these are the pieces I ordered. I used my drill press and a ton of patience. The pads load up with aluminum goo pretty quick, I changed often.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZMUNMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Blade]

Got an early start today with the intention of getting the button head screws into the firewall. Went a little slower than I planned but it was good. Drill/taps are the bomb. Not my idea I got it from this forum. I'm still awaiting on my POL stuff, but I was able to almost finish the front suspension. I post these pictures not to boast but for you to scrutinize and find flaws. And please bring them to my attention. You won't offend me. 112137112138112139:cool:

[TxMike64]

112139:cool:

You can powdercoat the lower control arm adjustable links... Just scuff up the dichromate coating first.

[sethmark]

You can powdercoat the lower control arm adjustable links... Just scuff up the dichromate coating first.
Absolutely. I did. Came out great m

[Blade]

I took y'alls advice and powder coated adjustable lower control arms and tie rod ends. I think they came out great. Pics coming next post. The problem I have run into is the items on my POL is keeping me from really completing one thing and moving on. This may be normal, so as a result I moved to fuel tank. Dang that bad boy is tight. Without the tank floor in it is super tight. I then concluded that the rivet heads will make it worse. I contemplated silicone on the underside of the tank floor alum and a few rivets along the perimeter. Did anyone have similar issues, if so what were your solutions?

[JimLev]

I think almost all of us had to wait for a few months before we had all of the missing parts.
Yes, the fuel tank was a very tight fit, I had to use a jack to push the top frame piece up just enough to slide the tank in, it was still a tight fit.

[sethmark]

The tank is a treat. Make sure that you have the ability to pull down the hinges for the truck before you commit to drilling. On my chassis, and my understanding from the guys at the store, is most chassis will require that the tank is offset to passenger some. It does not sit squarely to get the tabs to line up. It does fit it’s just a question of getting it centered under the hinges for the trunk lid.

Don’t get hung up on centering it on the chassis. The only thing that matters is the hinges. I suggest putting on the back wall where the filler neck is at the same time so that you don’t fight it as well.

[Blade]

I did take an angle grinder with flap wheel to the high spots, it helped a bunch....a jack....hummmm. Now your talkin!! Thanks for the advice. I did think to put in the back alum yes it makes a bunch of difference.

[Blade]

112362112363

Fuel tank in. It didn't want to, I was very persuasive. Tabs on tank weren't very close, had to drill ideal locations.

[JimLev]

I also had to re-drill a few holes to bolt the tank in.
One of my mounting tabs on the tank was 1/4" too high, wouldn't allow the tank to slide under the top frame.
I cut it and re-welded it.

[40flash]

Can I ask a question, please. How wide is frame? Looks like it's pretty consistant from the firewall to behind the seats (rear bulkhead. I'm looking for a measurement from outside frame rail to outside frame rail at the widest point not counting the door mechanisms. Thanks in advance. John in Az.

[HVACMAN]

Can I ask a question, please. How wide is frame? Looks like it's pretty consistant from the firewall to behind the seats (rear bulkhead. I'm looking for a measurement from outside frame rail to outside frame rail at the widest point not counting the door mechanisms. Thanks in advance. John in Az.

112544 Hope this helps.

[Blade]

two questions.
first, I want to run an type fittings(what size/etc) and stainless wrapped hose from clutch and brake master cyl through firewall. your thoughts?
second, from all I've read I'm confused about using an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical already on the block(blue print 383 w/ holley tri power)

[sethmark]

I upgraded all of it. The extra length is so I can bleed the reservoir away from the firewall and service if need be. Plus I needed to be able to tighten the fitting inside the tube. All -3 an

[FF33rod]

from all I've read I'm confused about using an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical already on the block(blue print 383 w/ holley tri power)

Can't say I've ever researched the topic but why would you use an electric pump if you have the mechanical (for non EFI applications), would have thought it is one or the other....

[sethmark]

Can't say I've ever researched the topic but why would you use an electric pump if you have the mechanical (for non EFI applications), would have thought it is one or the other....


I thought the tri-power was three baby carburetors? 3 300cfms? I would expect mechanical 7psi to be ample..

[Blade]

I got the rearend from MPS. drove down and picked it up. Pulled the brakes for powder coating, removed backing plates, spent way too much time cutting off old shock mounts. Got the diff filled with royal purple and put on the new cover. The only problem I have now is the manual and the spacer sizes don't match up. In fact not even close. The bolts either seem too long or a little short. Revisited all the bolts holding the upper and lower control arms. A little stumped.

113193113194

[peterh226]

I’ve had a bunch of fun with the bolts and spacers as well. I’ll take some pictures Monday. I would be good to compare some detailed pictures.

[Blade]

Looking at the manual this morning I realized I don't have e brake cables. The manual states use the ones from the donor rear end. Don't have. I found on Amazon the cables, but they are pricey. 49 bucks each. Any thoughts?

[TxMike64]

They're like $15-$25 on RockAuto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=571196&cc=1362743&jsn=968

[FF33rod]

I ended up with an extra set of ebrake cables (duplicates due to the way the Canadian kit works), they have a 48" outer sheath and the inner cable is about 72". Pay for shipping and they're yours if you wish.
Steve

[Blade]

Thanks for the response. FF33 ROD thanks for the generous offer.i took txmikes advice and placed a rock auto order.

[HVACMAN]

Looking at the manual this morning I realized I don't have e brake cables. The manual states use the ones from the donor rear end. Don't have. I found on Amazon the cables, but they are pricey. 49 bucks each. Any thoughts?

I got my rear axle from MPS also but it came with e-brake cables.113808

[Blade]

The e brake lines from Rock Auto fit perfect. well made and perfect length. Mocked up e brake and Life is good. Mounted master cylinders, not half bad. Got a big load of POL, only thing missing is coolant overflow tank. Painted my bottom floor pans with Eastwood chassis paint, also got some black pop rivets, should look good when completed. Going to pull the trigger on wheels and tires this coming week.
114338114339114340114341

[FF33rod]

Lookin good

[Blade]

My wheels and two of the tires showed up today. You know...it did feel a little like Christmas. I put one on to see if my lug nut choice was going to work. The rear tires were special order 345/25/20's . Last email said another week.
I feel kinda stuck and I'm not sure exactly why. So I thought I'd run it by you guys. I'm about a month away from motor and trans purchase. It seems to me that I could start wiring harness and a/c unit on firewall as well as floor pans, but I haven't because I'm concerned those things making the motor install harder. Your thoughts...
115599115600115601

[sethmark]

Do body work. I sound like a broken record. But it’s better to rough it out before the mechanical is done.

[FF33rod]

I agree with Seth. However, in order to do the body work you need to have the front suspension in place and the grill/AC Condenser/Radiator sandwich done and mounted.... The grill position adjustment is much more limited with the AC condenser in place because it pushes the radiator further back into the chassis...

[Blade]

Well I got the rear tires and already had the wheels. Tirerack stated pepboys was the recommended installer. A phone confirmed they COULD NOT work with 20inch wheels:confused: they did steer me to an independent dealer who said no problem. Fronts no problem. rears were too wide for wheels. 345 will not fit on 10inch wide wheels. duh. I clearly missed that part. tirerack took back the 345's and sent me 285/25/20s . 116602116602116603
So I have 17x8 Ridler wheels with toyo 245/35/17s and 20x10 inch with 285/25/20

[Blade]

got my grill back from powder coat. The color is black chrome. 95bucks. 116851116852

[Blade]

Started working on the a/c unit. I followed the manual exactly. As you can see from the pictures if I followed the manual the a/c unit 1and3/16 from weld, the beadlock fittings hit the housing. Also the heater hose took a drastic bend. So I moved the unit over left too the other hole. Everything lined up,I can make the bends with the hoses. and the fittings don't hit the a/c housing. Do you think that this will be problematic for electrical in general or with gauges..etc.116915116916116917

[peterh226]

Here’s what I ended up with
116922. 116923
I bent the 90 a bit and used the top 2 holes and it seemed to fit ok. I didn’t want to leave that space over at the side empty. I figure there is a lot of stuff to fit in the middle.

[Blade]

I like it!! I'm going to give that a try. I have not crimped lines yet,so I'll give that a look. I would like to get back the few inches I took from the middle. Thanks Peterh226

[Blade]

I moved the a/c unit back a couple inches.117037 I crimped my hoses with mastercool 71550. worked really smooth,i'll find out how well during cart stage. Blueprint 117036arrives this coming monday. TKO600 arrived a couple days ago. Still reviewing how the transmission mount works. It seems to me it should have a rubber mount, maybe not. Does anyone have pics of their install showing trans mount stuff??

[peterh226]

Hi Blade
Here's how I mounted mine at first.
117038
I'm debating about whether to flip it over and use spacers to get the transmission lower at the back to give me more exhaust room.
Check out this post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31910-SS383-Build-33-Hot-Rod-1134&p=387066&viewfull=1#post387066

I'm interested to see how your stuff mounts up as you have a similar setup to mine.

You should have the mount in the box of goodies somewhere. I had to buy some bolts to attach to the transmission.

[Blade]

peter, I just looked at that post 2 minutes ago. Ironic....I will have to hunt down that mount. I have a plethora of bolts. I hope I have what I need. Our setups are close indeed. One of the things I've learned from these builds is they can vary greatly in the way they go together. Have you looked at the wiring harness? I mounted the fuse panel and made some preliminary observations. One bundle at a time.Thanks for the pic , it will help.

[peterh226]

I think I’m going to go back to the mount I had and focus on the driveshaft and pinion angle first. Then I’m going to figure out how to get the exhaust to fit.

[Blade]

I found out today that the transmission mount I've been searching for was never shipped. Coming later this week. I thought I had lost my mind, looked everywhere. I inadvertently had put a check mark on my inventory sheet. But, aside from that this showed up today117150117151 Blueprint 383 w/holley750. HP 448 TQ 482
I looked it over and not a scratch, then realized I need black finned valve covers,dual feed fuel line and fuel pump,harmonic balancer, short water pump,drive system w/ac and alternator. etc...etc

[Blade]

I have learned that time management is not my strong suit. TKO 600 with GM 621 bell housing and Hydramax throw out bearing took some doing. I found all the grade 8 fasteners at my local ACE. The trans,bell housing, clutch and related stuff came from American Powertrain. With some friends help on Saturday it should be in the car.117816117817

[Blade]

today started out great. Had some friends come over to help put engine/trans in the car. went pretty smooth. having the tools made the difference. The only problem was headers SUM-G9105 did not fit. The install addendum for SBC says use SUM-G9005. Summit said these were the same only ceramic coated. drivers side #1 cylinder pipe contacts the frame upper round tube, making it impossible to install. passenger side contacts the bell housing. Am I missing something? I could move the motor back as much as 1inch and still have clearance for the dist. from the firewall. It won't solve the passenger side, but I think I could finesse it to fit. 117951117952117954

[Blade]

problem identified. the headers sum-g9105 do not work. primary tube is 15/8 collector 3 inch. should be primary 1.5inch and 2.5 collector. headers heading back as of this afternoon and ceramic flowtech headers enroute. Continued with floor this afternoon. Should finish that segment tomorrow. 118062

[Blade]

finished the floors last week. used black 3m 5200, any that squirted out was easy to clean up. New headers fit great, the exhaust pieces did not fit at all. I was able to cut and re-weld the two pipes and drivers side is complete, needs a little adjusting. PS is together and needs supports and tightening. I was really frustrated with my welding, I have not welded tubing much, found it challenging. 118751118753118754118756118758

[Blade]

I thought this would be easy, apparently not. I ordered a pulley drive system from Summit. Made by Eddie Motorsports. Crank pulley is way to deep. Sending back. What systems work on SBC with a/c and alt only??? I would really like your input. I think I need to step back a bit, it seems like everything has been harder than it should. The exhaust was making me crazy, the throttle cable/pedal was well you know. I did shift gears today and did some powder coating. let me know what you think. The color is black chrome, the valve covers have raised ribs,after powder applied I took my finger and removed the powder on the rib. It took 2 applications of the powder to get it right. The top of the air cleaner was done also, its in the last pic.118808118809118807

[FF33rod]

Powder coating looks great, good job!
Steve

[peterh226]

I thought this would be easy, apparently not. I ordered a pulley drive system from Summit. Made by Eddie Motorsports. Crank pulley is way to deep. Sending back. What systems work on SBC with a/c and alt only??? I would really like your input. I think I need to step back a bit, it seems like everything has been harder than it should. The exhaust was making me crazy, the throttle cable/pedal was well you know. I did shift gears today and did some powder coating. let me know what you think. The color is black chrome, the valve covers have raised ribs,after powder applied I took my finger and removed the powder on the rib. It took 2 applications of the powder to get it right. The top of the air cleaner was done also, its in the last pic.118808118809118807

Blueprint uses a March setup. Give them a call and they can tell you the numbers I expect or maybe sell you the setup at a discount. I have the engine set back 1/2 inch at the engine mounts. I'm using a Blueprint 383 with the TKO as well. I used the Flowtech Headers 11102FLT headers. Drivers side fits fine, passenger side requires you to use the 4 bolt flange spacer between the downpipe and the pipe going into the muffler. After I added that spacer, all was good.

With the engine set back 1/2in, I ground the passenger side mount for the Rack a bit for clearance.

Check out my build page for pictures...

[Blade]

got the a/c alt drive system from Speedway. super easy to install, only thing I don't care for the a/c fittings are a little more outboard than i wanted. The radiator went together without difficulty,so glad, I didn't need any problems today. The lower radiator hose was easy also. First thing I did was not use the manual, it sometimes makes simple too complicated. 119306119307

[Blade]

which heater hose port do you guys use. I have one port on the side of the water pump, heater hose attached, do I use the one on top of the pump or the one on the manifold? 119488119489119490

[peterh226]

which heater hose port do you guys use. I have one port on the side of the water pump, heater hose attached, do I use the one on top of the pump or the one on the manifold? 119488119489119490

I had the same questions and after looking around determined the one in the manifold is the one to use. Blueprint included a fitting (straight) but I ended up getting a90 to keep the hose lower in the engine compartment.

[Blade]

Working on electrical stuff. My a/c compressor only had one wire, any idea where it connects? All the wires on the trinary switch are accounted for but one. Thoughts??

[shmelty]

Where did you get the ceramic Flowtechs?

Thanks,

Sean

[JimLev]

Working on electrical stuff. My a/c compressor only had one wire, any idea where it connects? All the wires on the trinary switch are accounted for but one. Thoughts??
The heater/AC control panel has a wire that will control the AC compressor.
Not sure which control panel you have, it should show on the schematic.

[peterh226]

Where did you get the ceramic Flowtechs?


Thanks,

Sean

You can ship them off to Jet Hot if you don’t have a local supplier. They quoted me $300 for the basic coating.

[Blade]

The ceramic flowtech headers are from summit

[Blade]

Hit a bench mark today. First start. Wasn't without challenges though. I had the water pump gaskets switched, Puked antifreeze, my catch pan wouldn't fit under the car. All that was left was to laugh then get it fixed. I had the starter mounted in the wrong holes, too far inboard. 5 minutes later, all better. After start, tiny leak at water temp sender and at one of the carb fuel line fittings. I read somewhere that the oil press gauge requires the sender it(gauge) came with. My gauge read pegged to the right with battery power, no indication at all on start. So in goes the huge ugly sender, tomorrow. https://youtu.be/mmiBNBnufqs

[sethmark]

Great work!

[Blade]

I have been working on the 33 a little most days. Got the headlights mounted and wired. The trunk alum. riveted in. and the trans tunnel cut and mounted. Chasing the wiring harness through the holes was challenging. 120758120759120760 I think tomorrow, I will get some help and fit the body.

[Blade]

I was working on finding out why my fuel gauge won't work. My fuel pick up/sender is a 16ohm by 158. It seems after much testing that the auto meter gauge is of another ohm range. I searched past posts and found one from years ago,it stated much the same thing. I will contact FFR monday and get their take. Did this occur with anyone else?

[FF33rod]

Sounds like a strange range for the sender, is it something you picked up or is it supposedly the standard FFR tank & sender? I got a Boyd tank and the only sender available from them was 0-90 so I had to pick up a different Autometer gauge for it. If for some reason you need the standard FFR supplied American Platinum fuel gauge I have one... good luck
Steve

[Blade]

Stock tank and sender from FFR. 16 to 158 ohms is apparently for specific year Ford's

[Blade]

Well progress has been made. I haven't posted in a while. Had some challenges with the body. but it's mounted. Working on doors next. A/c works well, no leaks. I was concerned because I did the hoses myself. Routing all those hoses on the passenger side took some doing. 123960123961123962123963

[Blade]

first fit of drivers door. Door was 3/16 to 1/4 inch too big. Lots of sanding and it's in the hole. 124010

[rapidray]

Blade, looking good! I went to school over the door mounting procedures. After you fit the door to the opening you want to put the four small screws in the interior hinge as this sets the height of the door. There is no other adjustment (up or down). You also need to remove the 2 upper panels that you have installed in the trunk aluminum as those are access holes to mark where the trunk hinge will go. Keep posting and be patient with the body work as it can be difficult. Ray

[FF33rod]

or if you don't want to remove those panels in your trunk, have a look at my build thread and see how I got around that.... (I did the same thing and installed them too soon)
Steve

[Roger Pugh]

It would be hard to offend! Looks pretty good. I like the grey, what color are you going to use on the car?

Roger

[Blade]

Yep ...too right. I did install the trunk panels too soon. FF33rod I saw your method for trunk hinges. I like it. The Car color as it stands right now will be Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Red Hot. worked on this today since the sun came out.124803124804124805124806 Naz was the one I remembered talking about Mcmaster-Carr. They make rivnuts designed for plastics and fiberglass. A great product. Locked down on the fiberglass like crazy. Did have to modify the riv tool wasn't long enough. The angled air sander with drums is my new friend.

[FF33rod]

Lookin good, +1 on the sanding drums and the McMaster-Carr rivnuts. I got tired of trying to fiddle around with the FFR rivnut tool. Threads started to strip, ended up springing for a Astro Pneumatic manual one that is much easier to use. In fact, I have to be careful not to put too much force on it now or the rivnut will split the fiberglass :)

[sethmark]

Pneumatic rivnut tool???Rich people! :p


Lookin good, +1 on the sanding drums and the McMaster-Carr rivnuts. I got tired of trying to fiddle around with the FFR rivnut tool. Threads started to strip, ended up springing for a Astro Pneumatic manual one that is much easier to use. In fact, I have to be careful not to put too much force on it now or the rivnut will split the fiberglass :)

[rapidray]

Never seen a pneumatic rivnut tool. Ditched the supplied tool as it was too complicated. I used a homemade one that Brave Salmon described on this forum. It works perfectly just used a body bolt with the built on washer. Was amazed how simple, easy and well it worked! Ray

[FF33rod]

The company name is Astro Pneumatic you doofusses, it isn't a pneumatic tool. LOL
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01JBNNJ3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[HVACMAN]

Yep ...too right. I did install the trunk panels too soon. FF33rod I saw your method for trunk hinges. I like it. The Car color as it stands right now will be Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Red Hot. worked on this today since the sun came out.124803124804124805124806 Naz was the one I remembered talking about Mcmaster-Carr. They make rivnuts designed for plastics and fiberglass. A great product. Locked down on the fiberglass like crazy. Did have to modify the riv tool wasn't long enough. The angled air sander with drums is my new friend.

Nice looking dash Blade! Is that carbon fiber or a wrap? I was planning to try a wrap first but also considered hydro-dip.

[Blade]

It's a wrap. VViViD+ Premium Black Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap Film (1ft x 5ft) With a little heat it went on pretty good. I think hydro dip is the bomb. I opted for this wrap first, If it didn't work out I could pull it and try something else. I have the Astro rivnut tool, didn't have the 10-32 bit for it.

[Blade]

https://youtu.be/R2ioDIL-emc thought I would post a little update video. 125540 the passenger door is at least 1/2inch too big. Work in progress.

[JOP33]

Nice job! Looks great and sounds great!

[sethmark]

Looks great. Love the tire and wheel combo.

[TxMike64]

What are the front tires?

[Blade]

245/35ZR-17 TOYO PROXES R1R XL from tirerack in october. Rears are 285/25-20 TOYO PROXES T1R RF . Wheels are Ridler...ordered from Amazon.

[Blade]

can anyone give me direction on how this goes together. A picture or 2 would be great125892

[FF33rod]

You just wondering how to work with the spring? This is covered in the Gen 1 manual but looking at the gen 2 that I have a copy of it seems to be deleted. I can take some snaps of the gen 1 manual if needed....

Steve

[Blade]

that would be awesome thank you sir.
Dean

[FF33rod]

I've copied a bit more than needed as it looks like a couple of parts have changed in Gen 2 regarding how the cable attaches to the handle but I'm sure you can figure it out....

From the Gen 1 manual

125901
125902
125903
125904
125905
125906
125907
125908
125909
125910

Steve

[Blade]

Thank you Steve. This is more than I expected.
Dean

[Blade]

Body work is clearly not my area of expertise. After I figured out how to move the roof on and off, I sanded off the high raised areas. The rear of the roof sits nicely. When I put the weather strip on it should be good. The windshield area has a pretty big gap. I can push it down easily but it distorts the angle of the opening, and i fear the windshield will not fit correctly. I can sand the A posts and reduce the gap. I just wanted you guys take before I crank the sander up. One last thing. The lip for the windows,front and rear glass on the roof, how wide should it be. Mine are almost an inch.126723126724126726126727126728126729

[FF33rod]

I'm envious with the finish of your top around the edges! Mine were a mess and I'm still screwing around filling and shaping it.

Similar to you, the top fit quite well along the back, had to sand a little on both sides to bring the rear down a little to close up the gap. The front passenger A pillar didn't fit too bad but the driver's side had 1/4 - 5/16 gap. I put some filler in and and also clamped it down some. Between the 2 it fits not too bad now. Not sure how the window is going to fit.

Speaking of the windows, I have the same question as you, what dimension is everyone cutting the fiberglass back to? I know everyone does it some to gain a bit more visibility.

Steve

[Blade]

I got the door handles mounted and that overly complicated mechanism with the spring installed outside and found the operating cable is too short. I checked both manual references, checked my work, and it seems they are short by about an inch. Are there gen1 and gen 2 cables? 128337128338
The pics are the same end different views.

[Bgardner]

Maybe a bit late but I trimmed window openings back to 5/8"

128347128348

Leaves enough room to glue glass in place and also seems to be covered by the black on the windshield.

[Bgardner]

I got the door handles mounted and that overly complicated mechanism with the spring installed outside and found the operating cable is too short. I checked both manual references, checked my work, and it seems they are short by about an inch. Are there gen1 and gen 2 cables? 128337128338
The pics are the same end different views.

Blade

I am currently also working on door handles, cables I have seem to be about 1/4" short and keep my door handle sitting up too high. I will try and see if I can adjust the sleeve tomorrow and get the extra 1/4"

128352128353

The cables I have are 22 1/2 long outside to outside, the sleeve is 20 1/8" long

From your picture it looks like there is a piece on the back plate that is used as a stop for the cable lever arm when it returns to the resting position (pushed by the spring). attached is a picture of my back plate, does yours have an extra tab out of the bottom or is this something you added.

128354

[Blade]

Yours are gen 1 versions, I have the gen 2. they are very different. Not sure about cable length, will check today

[Blade]

128603 the manual gives specific measurements for cutting the opening for window. They are inaccurate. I'm not sure who on the forum here saw this first but they were right. Sorry can't remember who to give credit too. The opening must be much bigger,in the neighborhood of 1.185 to 1.2. 128604 The manual then states to use lower holes, this it appears is inaccurate. All the subsequent pictures use the upper holes128605 and then it switches back to lower holes. I used the upper holes and all seems well. 128606 this is the glass channel.
And now a question. I can attach my battery charger to the two wires from the window motor and supply 2 amps and move the mechanism, switch them and move in other direction. I have tried in vain to get the supplied switch to operate the motor. 128607 there are 2 grounds(do i connect together?) someone please share with me.128608in the picture the upper schematic came with the switch, lower pic is from manual.

[FF33rod]

The diagram that came with the switch doesn't seem to have the correct terminal orientation or even number. I'd ignore.
My manual has slightly different diagram (more info) than yours. Maybe it will help
128612

Seems pretty straightforward - separate power and ground for illumination of the switch. Ground you can find, for the illumination power I tapped into the white wire that comes from the light switch and goes to the dash gauge lights.

The window up and window down wires get connected to the window motor. Using an ohmmeter, I verified that power and ground get connected to these when you press the switch in one direction and get reversed when you press the switch in the other direction.

Steve

[Tampa33Build]

This is the schematic for how my power windows are wired. I have the Infinity Box, The Master cell just applies ground to the up an down inputs. The Rear power cell provides the power.
Never tried attaching a PDF, hopefully it works.
128623

[HVACMAN]

I tried to keep mine simple because of the location in the console. I brought 6 wires to the switches. 1 twelve volt keyed ignition; 1 ground; 2 window up; and 2 window down.

[Blade]

134726 I have not posted in a while and the reason is simple. I got my car to the point where it drives awesome,parts don't fall off and it stops really well. I took it too the only body shop here in my little town ( pop. 4000 approx.) I meet the owner, Zane Grey Stokes, very nice young guy. He was trained at Good Guys in Chattanooga. He shows me around the shop and it's pretty much what I expected. Pretty clean and lots of high tech. When we go into the office I see a bunch of very cool framed Cars with trophy's and such. Zane then proceeds to tell me about his time doing work for Texas Metal on the show. Sure enough I checked out the episodes and there he is. I took my 33 too them early in July, have been checking in on it every couple of weeks, still sitting inside out of their way with zero being done. I'm kinda frustrated, not totally because he did say it could take 4 months to complete, maybe more. I think what will happen they will at some time just dig in and thrash. I just wanted to vent a little. Thanks

[Blade]

work is moving along on the paint and body. I made a cart for the body shop today. Tomorrow we should finalize the trunk lid, power windows, and take the body off for primer. 144498144497

[RoadRacer]

134726 I have not posted in a while and the reason is simple. I got my car to the point where it drives awesome,parts don't fall off and it stops really well. I took it too the only body shop here in my little town ( pop. 4000 approx.) I meet the owner, Zane Grey Stokes, very nice young guy. He was trained at Good Guys in Chattanooga. He shows me around the shop and it's pretty much what I expected. Pretty clean and lots of high tech. When we go into the office I see a bunch of very cool framed Cars with trophy's and such. Zane then proceeds to tell me about his time doing work for Texas Metal on the show. Sure enough I checked out the episodes and there he is. I took my 33 too them early in July, have been checking in on it every couple of weeks, still sitting inside out of their way with zero being done. I'm kinda frustrated, not totally because he did say it could take 4 months to complete, maybe more. I think what will happen they will at some time just dig in and thrash. I just wanted to vent a little. Thanks

Sorry, I must have missed this update last year - I'm kinda fascinated by this pic. It may be an optical illusion, but it appears your rear wheel is way further back than mine. I found a similar picture of mine to compare. Was this something that you did intentionally? Or is this Gen2 has longer lower arms to center the wheel better? Interesting!

144509

[RoadRacer]

Ha, answered my own question, by reading the original SEMA announcement "In the rear suspension, we moved the mounts for the 4-link and 3-link solid axles suspensions to center the rear wheels in the body rear wheel well arch." - I had forgotten about this, and seeing the difference really surprised me!

[Blade]

James, too right,they are clearly farther back. I like both setups. I have Gen 2 chassis and body.

[Blade]

work on the prep for paint got hijacked by a problematic trunk latch. So, we think we have a solution, in the picture we cut and shaped some flat stock and made feet which are welded on. underneath is a wider piece of flat stock through bolted. I like the quik latch. easy to use, just getting the anchor points right was slow. 145327145328145329145330

[Blade]

I'm at the point where I need to think seriously about the seats that came with the kit. I don't care for them simply because they lack padding and aren't adjustable. What are you guys thoughts? I ordered after market sliders, they haven't arrived yet. I tried the procar Rally seats...too wide, won't fit in the car.
Blade

[FF33rod]

You don't have a ton of choices due to the width restrictions but a lot of guys have got aftermarket ones to work. For me, I found the ffr seats to be not bad once I inclined them a little (front is about 1/2-3/4 higher than the rear). Also considering adding a bit of foam under the seat for a bit more comfort

Steve

[wallace18]

Miata seats are maybe the only ones that may work. Even those are a tight fit. See the ones we used for my wife's 33. They were a little pricey and are fairly narrow. Not for a wide rear end, LOL.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34246-Marsha-s-Gen-1-33-build-by-Wallace18/page4

[RoadRacer]

I have the big&tall leather seats, then added the breeze kit for incline which includes a hardboard insert to hold the cushion up. I'm only 1000 miles in, but I have never even thought about the seats.. which is a good thing. They are comfy and work well.

[progmgr1]

x2 on the FFR Big & Tall seats. I added aftermarket sliders and home built brackets to lift the front about 1". The seats are comfortable for my fat a**, my wife and my skinny son.
Keith HR #894

[Blade]

I have the big&tall leather seats, then added the breeze kit for incline which includes a hardboard insert to hold the cushion up. I'm only 1000 miles in, but I have never even thought about the seats.. which is a good thing. They are comfy and work well.

breeze kit? can you bring me up to speed on this

[Blade]

you guys are awesome. thanks. I will call FFR tomorrow to inquire about the seats big and tall.

[33fromSD]

breeze kit? can you bring me up to speed on this

x2

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Yes, this from breeze.. excellent

#70602
Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/installation-kit-for-new-steel-frame-classic-seats/)

[33fromSD]

Yes, this from breeze.. excellent

#70602
Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/installation-kit-for-new-steel-frame-classic-seats/)

That's awesome....Thanks James...definitely ordering this tomorrow

[FF33rod]

I will call FFR tomorrow to inquire about the seats big and tall.

Looks like you received your kit in 2019, I received mine in late 2018 and at that time they were only shipping big and tall so it is likely that what you received. If I remember correctly, it actually says on them somewhere - maybe have a look....

Steve

[JimLev]

I swapped my low back seats for some high back Miata seats. The seat backs are adjustable and had slides attached to the bottom.
I had to swap them side to side so the seatback adjusters were on the inside, otherwise the adjusters were on the outside and not clear the sides of the waterfall.
146256

146257

[j33ptj]

May I suggest Corbeau seats? They come in a variety of widths, including upto 48" which I think is the max width for the HR...

They also do custom upholstery for you (at least in the UK), I had this brand in my Jeep and also as a desk chair, they are nice...

https://www.corbeau-seats.com/

[33fromSD]

That's awesome....Thanks James...definitely ordering this tomorrow

Ordered mine. Thanks again James

[Blade]

ordered breeze seat install kit last night. I am taking my seats to a local auto upholsterer, to see about upgrading foam density and stuff. I think Seth mentioned that some time ago here on the forum, so Seth I'm taking your advice, just a little later than I thought. Progress today, body came off the chassis onto cart.146375 Primer tomorrow and the weekend to let it do whatever it does.146391

[HotrodMike]

The high back Miata seats fit like they were made for it, I will have to get a set when I start my build in June 2021. Great job love the way your build came together!!

[Blade]

took longer than expected, but primer finished tonight. Gets the weekend to fully cure. Blocked on mon or tues. 146859

[Blade]

I received the Tenhulzen alignment tool today. Can someone please share the specs I need for toe. I'm still in the body shop,but looking at the wheels it looks like I have a toe out issue.

[FF33rod]

147106

good luck
Steve

[Blade]

body,roof,doors and trunk lid got their last coat of primer today. 147866147867On monday a light sand with 320grit and a wash before paint. So close. I just finished the seats. I added the breeze mounting kit and sliders from amazon. Love the way they came out. Will post pics this weekend. The combo gave me almost 4" of travel.

[Blade]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPT17CT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details the link to the sliders if you are interested. I mounted the sliders to the seat and then mounted the Breeze kit to the sliders. Only 4 holes required in the seat frame. The fiber board insert really firms up the seat. I could totally tell the difference. The Breeze components come raw, so get some paint on soon or they begin to get some surface rust. The components are top notch. I'm 6'3" and have my seat all the way against the waterfall. With these sliders I can not only reach my dash switches better, I can change seating positions on longer stints. 147899147900147901147902147903147904147905147906

[Blade]

The guys at the body shop asked how I was attaching door panels. I said,"I don't really know". I have seen them attached with screws, but didn't really want to do that. They suggested black double sided tape. Good idea but what if I want to remove some day. I suggested earth magnets, they nodded knowingly.....so I bought some small .260 and some large 1.250. the large ones will hurt you. they claim one will hold 110lbs. was contemplating gluing a thin metal plate to the lip of the door for the magnet to attach to, these would get paint and clear. I guess I'm wanting you guys to wade in on this. The panels are flat and the door has some contour,I made those bends and the panels sit pretty flat. The arm rest will be attached to the thick steel door bar, that will also hold the panel. So, what do you think???

[FF33rod]

Want a bit more finished look than the screws and since one of my panels don't fit anyway I'm building my own. Hagan has various components for this and I will be using their door clips for fiberglass
https://www.haganauto.com/product_p/dobptkf.htm

Steve

[Blade]

149869149870149871149872149873
It has been a long process getting into the booth , but it finally happened today. These pics are before clear. The clear is being sprayed as I type. Will post after, probably Monday. the color is :

[Blade]

Well I'm suprised. Here are the after clear pics. 5 coats of clear. 149876149877149878149879149880149881

[e36m3]

Hi Blade,

When I click on the attachments in your latest post I get this error message "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

Thanks,
Andy

[progmgr1]

Hi Blade,

When I click on the attachments in your latest post I get this error message "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

Thanks,
Andy

I had exactly the same issue on 6/25, so I sent an email to the admin as directed. No response, and the links still don't seem to work? I understand that this is a minor issue in the big scheme of things, but I would like to see these photos.
Keith HR #894

[FF33rod]

I'm pretty sure the admin can't fix it, the poster needs to redo the post making sure the attachments work (right format, correct size)

[Blade]

Thanks for advising me. Let me try this again. The problem could be at my end. 15007115007215007315007315007415007515007615007715 0078150079

the first pics are in the booth after 5 coats of clear. the second set is after putting on the roof temporarily so they could cut and buff the car.

[wallace18]

Looks Fantastic!:cool:

[Blade]

some progress pics and a question. How does the inner door latch go together? 151288The spring doesn't seem to be in the right place. gaps are needing final adjustment.151289 finished with cut and buff151290151291151292

[33fromSD]

I just so happen to have an extra "assembled" inner door latch so I took a pic.

151293

Jim

[33fromSD]

Also, in this link below under the 33 section there are instructions for the aluminum interior door handles

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/

Jim

[Blade]

thank you sir.

[Blade]

Had a good day today. Weather here in middle tenn was awesome. I got the trunk deck lid on and the whole thing works.151508 The doors went back on without much hassle. 151509151510 I like the aluminum inside door opener. I have read many threads about where and how to do rear view mirrors. Please give me your thoughts on this topic.

[RoadRacer]

I have read many threads about where and how to do rear view mirrors. Please give me your thoughts on this topic.

Here you go. I love mine. :D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24163-Roadracer-s-997-build&p=447128&viewfull=1#post447128

[Blade]

power window connections finished.151660151659 after much debate Zane(the painter dude) convinced me to paint the grill. It has enough clear to take a beating and still be able to cut and buff it.151663151662151661

[Blade]

My list of items to complete is getting short. I finished the dynamat in the cockpit152263152264152265152266
Finished dynamat in trunk and added the stock carpet.152271152272152273
I didn't really like the ac controls plate so I cut it down, engine turned it to match the dash and mounted it to the dash. I am trying to not have anything hanging down 152274152275
Still waiting on the upholstery shop to get me in. He's doing headliner,molded carpet, covered waterfall, door panels. Hopefully he calls this week.

[e36m3]

Car is looking great.
You mentioned you are 6'3", with you seat bracket set up how much distance is there between your head and the hardtop?
I like the bracket setup you used and I have the same seats.
I'm 6'2" and I'll be rnning my car on the track so I want to make sure I've got enough clearance.

Thanks,
Andy

[Blade]

I haven't actually measured the space above my head, but I'm pretty sure its at least enough for a full face helmet. I will check tomorrow and get the exact number.

[RoadRacer]

Everyone is different ratios, torso, etc, but at 6' tall there seems acres of space above my helmet - a good fists-worth 3-4"?

[e36m3]

Everyone is different ratios, torso, etc, but at 6' tall there seems acres of space above my helmet - a good fists-worth 3-4"?

James,
Thanks for the feedback. I just checked out your build thread and see you used the Breeze brackets too. I hadn't thought about sub belt yet. I like what you did.
Andy

[RoadRacer]

James,
Thanks for the feedback. I just checked out your build thread and see you used the Breeze brackets too. I hadn't thought about sub belt yet. I like what you did.
Andy

I just measured so I’m not “remembering”.. I have 5.5” above bare head, 2.5” above helmet. Yes I have breeze bracket

[Blade]

James,
Even with the seat all the ways forward, you are correct at least 4-5 inches.152404 The grill painted to match the car.

[e36m3]

Guys,
Thanks for the feedback on the head/helmut clearance. I'll be ordering the breeze brackets too.
Andy

[Blade]

getting the car ready for the upholstery shop to do their thing. molded carpet,headliner,waterfall covered,door panels...took it for a ride. No top,no windshield, pure fun....153215153216153217

[Blade]

Hey you guys, I just remembered something I wanted to run by you. After my drive yesterday I noticed my drivers side rear brake rotor was shiny about 1/3 the way from outside in. The others were shiny from braking as should be. It was easy to spot because there was a bit of surface rust on the rotors. Any thoughts on what that is all about. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the wheel and inspect...maybe e brake, dirt in the pad...etc

[33fromSD]

Hey you guys, I just remembered something I wanted to run by you. After my drive yesterday I noticed my drivers side rear brake rotor was shiny about 1/3 the way from outside in. The others were shiny from braking as should be. It was easy to spot because there was a bit of surface rust on the rotors. Any thoughts on what that is all about. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the wheel and inspect...maybe e brake, dirt in the pad...etc

Did you go through the bedding of the brake pad process yet? Pads may not fully seated yet. You may have also had an air pocket in the driver's side caliper. May not hurt to bleed the rears again.

The only other thing I can think of is did you thoroughly clean the rotors with brake cleaner before installing them to remove the oil / protection suppliers put on rotors. I found this needs to be done a couple times per rotor to get everything really clean.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Also look at the brake bias bar, if it's set too heavy on the fronts you may only be light scuffing the rotors in the rear.

Jim

[Blade]

Thanks Jim,
I have not bedded these brakes. I haven't had the opportunity to do so. I will tomorrow. I will do a thorough inspection just prior to bedding. I knew if I asked you guys I'd get a comprehensive list to work from.

[Blade]

Do you guys know if the wiring schematic(and break down of color coding in the manual) for the tail lights is accurate?

[RoadRacer]

Do you guys know if the wiring schematic(and break down of color coding in the manual) for the tail lights is accurate?

I don't remember any problems. The headlights caused some discussion I remember, but the tail lights were super straightforward.

[33fromSD]

Do you guys know if the wiring schematic(and break down of color coding in the manual) for the tail lights is accurate?
I cannot find it in my post, I thought I documented the wiring for the head light, but if you search for headlight wiring on the forum, a bunch of guys have documents the proper way to wire the headlights.

A lot depends upon if you want to run day time running lights on the LED setup or use parking lights. Both are wired differently.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

The wiring for the tail lights is pretty straight forward, as RoadRacer said. The main thing to remember is DO NOT use the purple wire.

[Blade]

All the wiring issues emanating from me wiring the connections on the brake light switch wrong. I had to start fresh, everything works as it should. Now it seems I'm having a clutch issue. My painter and I took the car for a spin. No top, into the wind, I let him drive a little. Everything worked perfect. Yesterday Zane(painter) asked me to come by the shop and move the car to the other side of the yard, started great when right into first, but a minute later the clutch pedal felt tough to push in and seemed to want to stay down. Then no clutch, reservoir full,154300154298154299 no apparent leaks on the floor where it was stored(I'm waiting for the top to be cut and buffed) any ideas are welcome. I'm going to pull the dash and check the pushrod and master. then get under and go for a bleed. Am I leaving anything out?

[RoadRacer]

If no fluid leaked then has to be the mechanical bits? So yes, pushrod and whatever is at the other end (Is it external with lever, or throwout bearing?)

Tough to push and staying down doesn't sound like needs bleeding..

[Blade]

hyd throw out bearing. I am going to look for the rod maybe came out of the master cylinder, or something in that area.

[Blade]

well, upon further review it seems like there is something wrong with the hyd throw out bearing. Operated the clutch slowly in the quiet this morning,sounded like a squish sound and then 10inch circle of hyd fluid appeared. Dang it. I have to wait a couple days to have access to a lift but it can be one of two things. Either the hyd lines came loose from the throw out bearing,that would be good news, or the bearing itself blew out from being hyper extended( this I suspect). Now trying to explore how difficult it is to move the tko600 back enough to remove the blown bearing. My tunnel has a cut out from the shifter hole rearwards, covered with a tunnel piece attached with pop rivets. If this works its got to be better than pulling the motor.

[RoadRacer]

Ugh, tough break. I was pretty worried for my first few miles..

[J R Jones]

The common issue with a fresh build is the internal flex line coming in contact with the clutch and an abrasion / leak.
If there is an inspection port you might see it with a flashlight.
jim

[33fromSD]

Damn, Sorry to hear this.

This was actually the reason I chose hydraulic slave cylinder on the side of my T5 verses hydraulic throw out bearing. I didn't want to have to remove tranny or in some cases engine / tranny to get to the throw out bearing if I had hydraulic issues.

Hopefully it's a line and you can access it to repair it, good luck.

Jim

[Blade]

thanks Jim, there is a positive note here. My 33 was suppose to be at the upholstery shop already but, for a number of delays it hadn't gone down to the shop. So, as a result the molded carpet wasn't in. If it was finished I wouldn't be able to open the trans tunnel so I can slide the trans back to access the hyd throw out bearing,that's good news. The other thing is I was planning on going to the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona this year, I'm kinda glad this happened here and not on 75 south somewhere. I'm pretty sure the problem with the HTO was mine, I did hyper-extend the bearing because of a lack of clutch pedal stop. I never did install a stop...my bad. will look for options to include one.

[FF33rod]

Watching, I have a leak there too but not nearly as bad as you describe.
The bolts holding the drive shaft to the rear have loctite on them so a blow torch on each is needed to get them removed.
I'll be doing this over the winter as well, will replace with an external slave I think.
Be careful with the pilot bearing when pulling and replacing the tranny. I unknowingly squished it when pulling things apart when the engine blew last winter. Took awhile to figure out why the tranny wasn't inserting properly...

Good luck
Steve

[Blade]

Thanks Steve, good advice, I have gone over the steps in my mind, I'm sure there will be stuff that changes all that. I think I will buy a pilot bearing now,can't hurt.

[Blade]

well I finally got my rod back from upholstery shop. He did a fine job. The headliner is padded and in suede. He put some reliefs in to break up the field,I like it. The aluminum door panels were too hard to work with, were not fitting good, so he replaced them and used suede and vinyl to cover the new panels. I'll show you the waterfall in another couple of days, man it came out way cool. 159112159113159114

[Blade]

159115 the head liner. Monday we are putting in the door glass, windshield and back glass will be installed by mobile glass guy. and the roof goes on. Just in case I don't get to it in the next day or so...MERRY CHRISTMAS

[Blade]

some pics of the waterfall,roof, windshield and back glass installation. I spent the last 2 days replacing the Hydromax throw out bearing. I can confirm that a tremec TKO 600 transmission can be removed without taking out the engine. It's a pain and a lift makes life grand.I've never seen anyone sand a windshield before today. Joe didn't like the way the glass fit so he worked on it. best $200 I've ever spent. the pic showing the back of the roof inside, doesn't show the padded piece that covers the bolts and ugly parts. 159410159411159412159414159415159416159417

[Blade]

short vid from today. side glass goes in tomorrow than it's coming home. still can't believe it.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM1UYB1J0c7h3Q4ffGvCpaubQZlcxjbUMhgDw9w
oh by the way I know it's very dirty. will get that done tomorrow also.

[Blade]

well it's finally home. I have a couple minor things to do, but I'm pretty sure these cars are never really done.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM9l0d5u-FNR_p2fKf8095PGpZSdG0NUrpsPJyg

[RoadRacer]

I don't know about anyone else but I can never view your google photo links. They just 404.

[Namrups]

404 for me too.

[HVACMAN]

I don't know about anyone else but I can never view your google photo links. They just 404.

Same here.

[33fromSD]

Same

Jim

[Blade]

thanks for the heads up. I think this will work. I finished the pass window and did a thorough walk around. fired right up with some smoke. It has been sitting without running for a while. it was 27 degrees out, let it warm up a bit, took it the local 100% fuel station 93 octane, added octane booster and cruised through town(it's not a big town, two lights) then up the highway. ran like crap for about 2 miles. I didn't push too hard and it started to clean up. Heater works awesome. Drove about 10 miles and the weather started to decline, went home shot this vid while the sun was out.https://youtu.be/J3hMRkPyVI0

[33fromSD]

Looks Great!!

Jim

[RoadRacer]

thanks for the heads up. I think this will work. I finished the pass window and did a thorough walk around. fired right up with some smoke. It has been sitting without running for a while. it was 27 degrees out, let it warm up a bit, took it the local 100% fuel station 93 octane, added octane booster and cruised through town(it's not a big town, two lights) then up the highway. ran like crap for about 2 miles. I didn't push too hard and it started to clean up. Heater works awesome. Drove about 10 miles and the weather started to decline, went home shot this vid while the sun was out.https://youtu.be/J3hMRkPyVI0

LOL at all those times you said it was "dirty". That thing is immaculate. I haven't washed mine for a year. :D

[Dduty]

some pics of the waterfall,roof, windshield and back glass installation. I spent the last 2 days replacing the Hydromax throw out bearing. I can confirm that a tremec TKO 600 transmission can be removed without taking out the engine. It's a pain and a lift makes life grand.I've never seen anyone sand a windshield before today. Joe didn't like the way the glass fit so he worked on it. best $200 I've ever spent. the pic showing the back of the roof inside, doesn't show the padded piece that covers the bolts and ugly parts. 159410159411159412159414159415159416159417
Interior is very nice! How is the waterfall attached to the body? Also I like the quick latch buttons on the trunk. I was thinking of using a single in the center but two look great. Would you have a photo of how the latch buckets are mounted in the trunk.

[Blade]

161927161928161929161930161931161932

I hope these pics help. I used mild steel and heat to shape them. They are thru bolted to the trunk floor and there is a piece of plate underneath to give it rigidity. The waterfall has a seal-it where the rollbar goes through. After the upholstery was done, I put the waterfall in place and the roll bar fit so tight, there's nothing holding it. It's just locked in place.

[Dduty]

Great photos and clean installations! Thanks

[Blade]

I just became aware that when I brake the white strip in the headlight comes on as well as the brake lights. If the headlights are on the white strip turns amber and lights up when brakes are depressed.for the record:passenger side
the wire colors from the RF harness are
black
brown
red
tan
light blue
wire colors from headlight LED

black
yellow
blue
red
green
I have looked back over the threads covering this topic and I'm kinda lost. I'm not sure where to start. Any thoughts guys?

[FF33rod]

Not sure if you're trying to use DRL or not...

Regardless, Tan for the park function shouldn't be used.

If no DRL function, then red and green on the LED light should go to the wire for the signal - (light blue)
Black goes to black, those are the grounds.
This leaves yellow and blue on the light for the high and low beams (Don't remember of the top of my head which is which)

Does that help at all?

Steve

[Blade]

Well, I did the wiring just as suggested. The bad news is the turn signals in the headlights still illuminate when brakes are depressed, the good news they are now amber instead of white...I like the amber better.

[Blade]

My next little issue is the upper links for the four link rear suspension make a awful squeak sound when driving. Anybody else experience this issue

[narly1]

some pics of the waterfall 159410159411

I was just reviewing your entire build thread in a bit more detail.

Talk to me about your roll bar quick release set-up.

Thanks,

Earl

[33fromSD]

My next little issue is the upper links for the four link rear suspension make a awful squeak sound when driving. Anybody else experience this issue

I had to grind some material away on the upper links that attached to the diff housing. The links were binding and not allowing the joints to freely move. I caught mine during the build process but had I not, I can imagine it would've caused a awful squeak / shriek. at one point it was metal on metal.

May or may not be you issue but something worth checking. Check the links carefully, if you see bare metal anywhere from rubbing this is probably the cause for your noise.

Jim

[Blade]

165882
what I did was, with waterfall removed put the roll bar into the mounts. I measured to make sure the roll bar was low enough to fit with the roof on.Then I drilled the holes for the pins supplied with the kit,I drilled them all he way through with roll bar in place. Then I took the roll bar out, and put the waterfall in place, I found I had to cut the mounting tube off as it hit the waterfall, keeping it from laying flat. I used a pointer fixed from above the mounting holes to locate where to drill the waterfall. Drilled those holes, then using a long angled scribe I placed it into the mounting tube and scratched a mark onto the waterfall from inside so I knew where to drill the pin holes in the waterfall.I installed the seal-it rubber seals over the roll bar holes and then I had a guy upholster the waterfall. when I got it back I just pushed the waterfall into place,slipped the roll bar into the holes and inserted the pins.

[narly1]

165882
what I did was, with waterfall removed put the roll bar into the mounts. I measured to make sure the roll bar was low enough to fit with the roof on.Then I drilled the holes for the pins supplied with the kit,I drilled them all he way through with roll bar in place. Then I took the roll bar out, and put the waterfall in place, I found I had to cut the mounting tube off as it hit the waterfall, keeping it from laying flat. I used a pointer fixed from above the mounting holes to locate where to drill the waterfall. Drilled those holes, then using a long angled scribe I placed it into the mounting tube and scratched a mark onto the waterfall from inside so I knew where to drill the pin holes in the waterfall.I installed the seal-it rubber seals over the roll bar holes and then I had a guy upholster the waterfall. when I got it back I just pushed the waterfall into place,slipped the roll bar into the holes and inserted the pins.

Thanks! Wondering if one could use a fibreglass rotozip bit and just run it around the ID of the mount tube to make quick and easy work of cutting those holes.

Earl

[FF33rod]

Well, I did the wiring just as suggested. The bad news is the turn signals in the headlights still illuminate when brakes are depressed, the good news they are now amber instead of white...I like the amber better.

Ok, so next thing to check is that you cut the wires as outlined in the main hot rod instruction book. In my manual it's in the "Steering COlumn WIring" section.

Steve

[Blade]

Steve, you are the man. I was able to find those wires in a bundle under the dash and sure enough, didn't cut the green and white from the connector. No lights coming on when they shouldn't. thank you sir.
Dean

[Blade]

I've had this annoying noise from around the rear end area. I got the car up on stands and found the two upper links for the four link make a terrible noise when I depress the body. They don't seem to be rubbing anywhere. Any thoughts? I do plan to take them off one at a time and check for wear spots or other indicators.

[Ltngdrvr]

I've had this annoying noise from around the rear end area. I got the car up on stands and found the two upper links for the four link make a terrible noise when I depress the body. They don't seem to be rubbing anywhere. Any thoughts? I do plan to take them off one at a time and check for wear spots or other indicators.

Greased well?

[Brave Salmon]

I followed a similar route to cut the holes. Took out waterfall, put tape over the receivers for the roll bar and found exact center of the receiver. I then hung a laser pointer like a plumb bob pointing straight down into the taped receivers. I used a push pin into the ceiling to get the laser positioned perfectly vertical and made sure the dot was in the middle of the receiver. Replaced the waterfall and had a nice red dot on the waterfall to center the hole. I then used my 1.5" (i think) hole saw and drilled vertically through the waterfall. It worked perfectly and the hole was exactly where it needed to be. The tricky part was making certain the drill was plumb so the resulting holes were a bit oval because of the slope.

[HVACMAN]

I've had this annoying noise from around the rear end area. I got the car up on stands and found the two upper links for the four link make a terrible noise when I depress the body. They don't seem to be rubbing anywhere. Any thoughts? I do plan to take them off one at a time and check for wear spots or other indicators.

Check the clearance between the lower shock body and rear axle.

[Blade]

I took my car for a ride today. Sure was a beautiful day. This was my first attempt at video from inside. https://youtu.be/vluJEesQS6k

[narly1]

Nice! Waiting for the sequel that shows the huge crowd that gathers around when you stop and get out to get gas LOL.