Question regarding crush washers

[EZ$]

OK, so it was pointed out to me a while back that the routing of my brake lines to the calipers was less than optimal. They need to be changed to avoid pinching against the frame, etc. In order to do this, I need to rotate the banjo bolts at the caliper. Question is, can I loosen the banjo bolts at this point, reposition, and retighten using the original crush washer, or will I need to completely remove, replace the crush washer, and then retighten? The lines, bolts, and crush washers were all brand new when I first installed the brakes, and the car has never been driven. I'm also going to be installing remote reservoirs for the master cylinder at the same time to improve access, so I'll be bleeding the system when I'm complete. I'll probably have a question when I get to that point, since I have a Motive Pressure bleeder that had the cap to fit the original reservoir on the master cylinder, and now I'll be using the Wilwood plastic reservoirs. Hopefully they have a cap that will fit the new units.

[NAZ]

They are designed to be single use and if you notice when you remove one it will have striations from being torqued. You do know there are torque values for banjo bolts -- right?

Yes I have reused them on non critical systems but that would not include a brake system. Consider them cheap insurance.

[EZ$]

Thanks Naz. Same answer I'm getting on the other forum as well. I do know there are torque values, and they are torqued correctly, just something I've never dealt with, and figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

[CraigS]

I have re-used them. Some times I got away w/ it, some seeped. Now a days, it's not worth it to me to take that chance if I don't need to. Good thing is they are readily available at any parts store for little $.

[EZ$]

Thanks Craig. I'm going to try just loosening and repositioning. I'll test it with some hard brake pressure, and if there are any leaks, I'll replace them. In the long run, the stop is probably more important than the go!