so I'm estimating about $2100 in tools to build a FFR MKIV

[toadster]

if you look at the complete kit tool requirement, it adds up quickly - I have about 1/2 of this stuff, but dang - it adds up quick!

https://i.imgur.com/v1qEJ2R.png?1

https://cobradreams.com/items-that-ill-most-likely-need-in-my-garage/

[Ducky2009]

You have a lot on your list. Do you have a Harbor Freight near by?

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Have no idea. Collected tools since I was a teenager so I had a solid base along with tool chests, engine hoist & work bench machines. IIRC I bought a air powered rivet gun, a pile of clecos & tool, air powered nibbler, Rivnut tool, transmission jack, 1/2" drive 250ftlbs torque wrench. Can't think of anything else right now but will add it if anything comes to mind.

[delta0014]

I printed off the list also and have been buying a few items that I don't already have in anticipation of building one, but I probably already had 75% of the tools.
I can't imagine anyone starts one of these builds that doesn't own a single tool.
Some of those prices seem high too, $80 for a set of screwdrivers is a little much

[AC Bill]

I can't imagine anyone starts one of these builds that doesn't own a single tool.

True, a typical builder would usually have had to have been a bit of a Gearhead, and have gathered some basic tools at least.

Not to say a total newbie shouldn't build one, but it sure will increase a build budget, having to get them all at once. Many standard tools you could probably get at pawn shops, or second hand stores, for a lot less money. Just try to avoid the junk tools, like ones made in India, or Taiwan..If your close to the Canada/US border, don't forget there is about a 30% saving on the exchange rate. Canadian Tire's wide range of Mastercraft tools, is pretty high quality, and with a lifetime guarantee. You can get some great specials on them from time to time. I was looking at this one today, (even though I don't need it..lol) as it was a smokin good deal. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-socket-set-270-pc-0580294p.html#srp

[rich grsc]

I looked at about 1/3 of you list, then quit..You don't need a set of ratcheting wrenchs, or a dozen screw drivers or some $$$$ caulking gun. I doubt I spent more than $200 on tools, the only specialty tool was a set of cleco's, and maybe a few extra #30 drill bits.

[Papa]

Toadster,

Don't over think this. If you look through the manual, each section has a list of tools needed. Most are basic hand tools like wrenches and screwdrivers. You'll most definitely need a drill, bits in two sizes for the rivets, and a rivet tool of some kind. Specialty tools can be borrowed from most AutoZone or similar stores. I recommend having a torque wrench of your own as you'll need it frequently. Some metal shears, a hammer, jack stands and a jack. A good wire crimper and stripper, and about 50 1/8" cleecos and 10-15 3/16" cleecos with a a set of pliers for them. Buy or borrow what you need as you go and you won't be left with a pile of tools you didn't use.

[toadster]

You have a lot on your list. Do you have a Harbor Freight near by?

yep, I plan on checking out the aisles there - but you get what you pay for, I've had hit or miss on some of their stuff to be honest


Have no idea. Collected tools since I was a teenager so I had a solid base along with tool chests, engine hoist & work bench machines. IIRC I bought a air powered rivet gun, a pile of clecos & tool, air powered nibbler, Rivnut tool, transmission jack, 1/2" drive 250ftlbs torque wrench. Can't think of anything else right now but will add it if anything comes to mind.

sounds like you've done plenty of work previously, probably the most intensive was replacing the rear axle on my son's mustang - I've done a bit but nothing like an engine replacement


I printed off the list also and have been buying a few items that I don't already have in anticipation of building one, but I probably already had 75% of the tools.
I can't imagine anyone starts one of these builds that doesn't own a single tool.
Some of those prices seem high too, $80 for a set of screwdrivers is a little much

LOL it's not that I don't have tools, this is the full list of stuff in the manual - so I was just adding it all up


True, a typical builder would usually have had to have been a bit of a Gearhead, and have gathered some basic tools at least.

Not to say a total newbie shouldn't build one, but it sure will increase a build budget, having to get them all at once. Many standard tools you could probably get at pawn shops, or second hand stores, for a lot less money. Just try to avoid the junk tools, like ones made in India, or Taiwan..If your close to the Canada/US border, don't forget there is about a 30% saving on the exchange rate. Canadian Tire's wide range of Mastercraft tools, is pretty high quality, and with a lifetime guarantee. You can get some great specials on them from time to time. I was looking at this one today, (even though I don't need it..lol) as it was a smokin good deal. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-socket-set-270-pc-0580294p.html#srp

agreed - I like to buy tools that will last - the one-off stuff I can risk for a cheap buy - but even things like the brake flare tool shows that you get what you pay for


I looked at about 1/3 of you list, then quit. You have a bunch of stupid stuff on there. You don't need a set of ratcheting wrenchs, or a dozen screw drivers or some $$$$ caulking gun. I doubt I spent more than $200 on tools, the only specialty tool was a set of cleco's, and maybe a few extra #30 drill bits.

it's not my list, it's Factory Five's list! :) what do you think was your best purchase in the $200?


Thanks all - just going through the inventory and listings...

[toadster]

Toadster,

Don't over think this. If you look through the manual, each section has a list of tools needed. Most are basic hand tools like wrenches and screwdrivers. You'll most definitely need a drill, bits in two sizes for the rivets, and a rivet tool of some kind. Specialty tools can be borrowed from most AutoZone or similar stores. I recommend having a torque wrench of your own as you'll need it frequently. Some metal shears, a hammer, jack stands and a jack. A good wire crimper and stripper, and about 50 1/8" cleecos and 10-15 3/16" cleecos with a a set of pliers for them. Buy or borrow what you need as you go and you won't be left with a pile of tools you didn't use.

thanks Dave :) appreciate the candor... love your build too!

[TMartinLVNV]

Toaster, I had a decent base of tools already. When I need to use a 250 lb torque wrench, I will rent one from Auto Zone for free. I don't have or want to store an engine hoist. I will see of I can borrow one from friend or buy one on Craigslist then resale it afterward.

Harbor freight has its place. IMHO, it is not for precision tools or things you want to put to heavy use, it is great for prybars, light use air tools, and BFHs.

When quality is important, I agree on not buying the cheapest option. But, other than this car, I will probably never use a brake line flaring tool again. Amazon has a great selection of flaring tools that range from $20 to $300 plus. I think the $75 tool will do just fine. It maybe I'll rent that from Auto Zone too?

Items like a wire stripper and crimper that I will use over and over again for the rest of my life, I don't think twice about laying down some money for quality.

Terry

[videodude]

Toaster, I had a decent base of tools already. When I need to use a 250 lb torque wrench, I will rent one from Auto Zone for free. I don't have or want to store an engine hoist. I will see of I can borrow one from friend or buy one on Craigslist then resale it afterward.

Harbor freight has its place. IMHO, it is not for precision tools or things you want to put to heavy use, it is great for prybars, light use air tools, and BFHs.

When quality is important, I agree on not buying the cheapest option. But, other than this car, I will probably never use a brake line flaring tool again. Amazon has a great selection of flaring tools that range from $20 to $300 plus. I think the $75 tool will do just fine. It maybe I'll rent that from Auto Zone too?

Items like a wire stripper and crimper that I will use over and over again for the rest of my life, I don't think twice about laying down some money for quality.

Terry

Terry,

When it's time, you can come over and pick up my engine hoist. One problem solved.

Allan

[TMartinLVNV]

Thanks Allan. I will take you up on that offer. That is very nice of you.

[SerpantFL]

Just a quick caveat, choose the tools that matter from a good auto parts supplier, sometimes the HF tools are from another land where QC is secondary, and the last thing you want is to get injured or have the car damaged. Good luck with the assembly.

[BrewCityCobra]

Kind of off topic, but what Torque range should one look for when purchasing a torque wrench for a MK4 project? At present I have one that ranges between 50-250 ft.lb.

[lewma]

I had a basic set in the beginning. As the build started, I was visiting O'Rielly auto parts multiple times a weekend. As the build progressed, I was only making a single trip ( still multiple tools ), then towards the end, perhaps a new tool every 2 or 3 weeks.

Now that my build is done, I still go to the church of O'Reilly every now and then.

[MPTech]

Joining a local club is an easy way to increase access to one-time tools (and a great source of assistance and knowledge).
Our club has a couple items that float from build to build regularly: body buck, engine-hoist, engine stand, etc.

[NAZ]

I touch more than $2000 worth of tools and equipment everyday while working. I can't imagine the struggle you're going to go through assembling a kit on a shoestring tool budget but good luck to you. Remember, once the car is assembled you're going to need tools to work on it. And buy cheap -- buy twice, good quality tools last a couple of lifetimes and don't be afraid to cruise the swap meets and pawn shops for quality hand tools if you have a tight budget.

Tools are like horsepower -- you can never have enough.

[phileas_fogg]

I've lost the video, but a recent thread on this or the other forum showed a comparison between the HF torque wrench and the Snap-On one. HF was slightly more accurate at a fraction of the price, and the build material & quality were comparable. That video is only one of many pieces of anecdotal evidence showing the HF torque wrenches are one of the best tool bargains out there.

And to BrewCityCobra's question: I found I needed three to finish my build. The first was a 1/4" drive mini-wrench for the front rotors 20-200 INCH-pounds, the second (work horse) was a 1/2" drive 10-150 Foot-pounds, and the third was the 1/2" drive 25-250 Foot-pounds for the wheel nuts. I also bought a 3/8" drive 10-80 Foot pounds just for the convenience of a shorter handle to fit in tighter spaces.


John

[Avalanche325]

There are must haves, that should be good quality tools, like socket sets and wrenches. There are use it once or twice items, they can be cheap "good enough" tools or loaners from parts stores. Then there is a huge amount of "make your like easier" tools. Ratcheting wrenches, pry bars, stubbies, wobble extensions, 90* screwdrivers, etc.

I have always been a cautious Harbor Freight buyer. There are a couple things that I will recommend. There is a lot of junk in there. But, they have been stepping up their game and basically cloning some high end tools. I actually bought a socket set and some wrenches when I was moving overseas and had already shipped my tools and my car broke down. I have to say that besides the "brand of shame", they are nice. They are in my emergency kit.

Here is my HF list of what you should get.
Torque wrench - Their basic 1/2" Pittsburg clicker is all you need. These have been tested many times and have proven to be as or even more accurate that high dollar counterparts. Their newer higher price point ones have been spanking Snap-On for accuracy and repeatability. Torque specs on cars are ranges. If you get it in the range, you are good. When you need 250# for the hubs, use a loaner from a parts store. You only need it once.
Rivnut tool. If you are doing any removable panels, the HF tool is all you need. Elephant ears and access panels are what I have done.
Floor jack. Their Daytona jacks are a copy of Snap-On. To the point that there was a law suit.
Digital calipers. More then accurate enough for automotive work. Sears carried the EXACT same one, with a Craftsman sticker. You don't really need this for the build anyway.

Parts store tools and usually pretty much the same as the HF low end stuff. Exceptions would be Lisle specialty tools, or some carry brands like GearWrench.

The $30 flare kits are junk. Parts stores, HF, Summit, etc all sell the same crap. A good, not too crazy tool is made by Ridged. You will likely need 37* and 45*.

Things I bought specifically for the build:
Swivel head rivet gun. Got it at Ace Hardware. There are a couple spots where you need it. If you put the rear cockpit wall in before the trunk floor like the instructions say......head on over to you helpful hardware man. Like I did.
Rivnut tool. HF. Refills from McMaster-Carr
Clecos
Fastrax alignment tool.
90* drill adapter.
Various drill bits, taps, and hole saws. I never seemed to have the exact size I needed.

What I wish I would have bought. I did some custom metal work. Fan shroud, glove box, etc.
Combination disc / belt sander.
Jig saw table. (basically a jigsaw mounted up under a table) Used one while helping a friend, and instantly smacked myself in the forehead. I wasn't really aware of them.
There was a bunch of stuff since I did my own body / paint. But that is a different subject.

[Dewey McBride]

Terry,

When it's time, you can come over and pick up my engine hoist. One problem solved.

Allan

Ha! I just offered him my hoist on the other forum! Now I only use it to pull out tree stumps, move my pizza oven, and move my pool table.

[Papa]

thanks Dave :) appreciate the candor... love your build too!

I should probably caveat that I didn't follow the advice I provided. For my situation, I don't mind buying tools and I bought a few during my build that fall into the luxury, nice to have category.

Media blasting cabinet
Powder coating sprayer and oven
Eastwood flaring tool
Kool tools braded line fitting tool
Bendpak lift
300lb Torque wrench
Air mini belt sander
Air drill
90 degree head air drill
Extra jack
Extra jack stands
Power Probe II electrical test tool
Thread gauges
Step drill bits
Several other small tools

Do what works for you and your budget.

Dave

[videodude]

Thanks Allan. I will take you up on that offer. That is very nice of you.

I've got an engine stand as well, can't quite remember where it is at the moment. It's either hiding in the garage or the side of the house, or still at the house in Fremont. In any case, I can help you out with that if you need it.

Allan

[GFX2043mtu]

MPTech is 100% correct find local guys that have been doing cars for along time and make some friends. Or better yet see if there are other builders around you and see what you can borrow for one time uses. Things like a engine hoist, load lever and stuff like that. Some tools you will need to get like a wrench set and some torque wrenches and that type of stuff. One word of advise about Harbor Freight, do reviews before buying stuff. Some stuff is not that good and other things are awesome. I purchased their air riveter and it's great, Hot Rod magazine did a review of torque wrenches and theirs where found to be as accurate as my snap on ones. My best suggestion is get the basics and get the rest as you need it. If a build takes you 2 years why get a tool now that you may not not need or will need in a year from now.

[CDXXVII]

If you are truly new to working on cars then I would highly recommend going to build school. I'm pretty sure that they would help you put together a good tool list and in the end probably save enough money to pay for build school.

I have a pretty large collection of tools and probably own everything on your list. It's nice to have but I have been collecting tools for 30 plus years. The first set I purchased was one of those 500 piece Craftsman sets that I saved for ever to get. Bought it my senior year in high school.

If nothing else, it looks like you have good planning skills.


Keep planning and remember, you will completely blow your budget if you listen to us on the two forums. :cool:

[Tree]

You also don't need to keep all the tools. I bought an engine hoist used on craigslist and will sell it once I am done with it. I will probably sell my electric rivet tool after the build as well.

[edwardb]

Can't add a ton to what's already been written. But couple comments from my side. I started out with quite a few tools, so not at square one like you. But I agree with what others have suggested. Get the basics and add as needed during the build. I enjoy collecting and owning tools, so I don't buy them with the intent to sell when done. But that is an option for some. For limited use items, don't overlook the tool loaner program at your local parts stores. I've done that a few times, and usually with good success. Couple times the tools weren't in great shape so I ended up buying my own. But other times, they were new or nearly new and did the job. Don't write off Harbor Freight. I agree completely you need to pick and choose what to buy from them. I personally avoid their electric power tools (I've pretty much standardized on Milwaukee) and usually the pneumatic ones as well. But hand tools -- ratchets, sockets, wrenches, etc. -- are decent and often a fraction of the cost of other sources. Especially when on sale or with their coupons. Other stuff like sandpaper, drill bits, step drills, etc. are crazy cheap even if they don't last forever. Also useful for very limited use items like gear pullers, vacuum and pressure gauge sets, etc. I started out with a pretty large Craftsman set. But have added a number of things, often from HF, and all have been OK. I know the stuff is imported. But unless you're looking at the real high end tool lines (SnapOn, Matco, Cornwell, etc.) most of those are imported too. Maybe even from the same places. We have a couple local HF stores that I visit occasionally. It seems they are trying to upgrade their stuff across the board. Often with other brand names like Bauer, Daytona, etc. Seems like pretty decent stuff. As already stated, check the reviews. Also tons of comparison videos on YouTube.

[toadster]

There are must haves, that should be good quality tools, like socket sets and wrenches. There are use it once or twice items, they can be cheap "good enough" tools or loaners from parts stores. Then there is a huge amount of "make your like easier" tools. Ratcheting wrenches, pry bars, stubbies, wobble extensions, 90* screwdrivers, etc.

Here is my HF list of what you should get.
Torque wrench - Their basic 1/2" Pittsburg clicker is all you need. These have been tested many times and have proven to be as or even more accurate that high dollar counterparts. Their newer higher price point ones have been spanking Snap-On for accuracy and repeatability. Torque specs on cars are ranges. If you get it in the range, you are good. When you need 250# for the hubs, use a loaner from a parts store. You only need it once.
Rivnut tool. If you are doing any removable panels, the HF tool is all you need. Elephant ears and access panels are what I have done.
Floor jack. Their Daytona jacks are a copy of Snap-On. To the point that there was a law suit.
Digital calipers. More then accurate enough for automotive work. Sears carried the EXACT same one, with a Craftsman sticker. You don't really need this for the build anyway.

Parts store tools and usually pretty much the same as the HF low end stuff. Exceptions would be Lisle specialty tools, or some carry brands like GearWrench.

The $30 flare kits are junk. Parts stores, HF, Summit, etc all sell the same crap. A good, not too crazy tool is made by Ridged. You will likely need 37* and 45*.

Things I bought specifically for the build:
Swivel head rivet gun. Got it at Ace Hardware. There are a couple spots where you need it. If you put the rear cockpit wall in before the trunk floor like the instructions say......head on over to you helpful hardware man. Like I did.
Rivnut tool. HF. Refills from McMaster-Carr
Clecos
Fastrax alignment tool.
90* drill adapter.
Various drill bits, taps, and hole saws. I never seemed to have the exact size I needed.

What I wish I would have bought. I did some custom metal work. Fan shroud, glove box, etc.
Combination disc / belt sander.
Jig saw table. (basically a jigsaw mounted up under a table) Used one while helping a friend, and instantly smacked myself in the forehead. I wasn't really aware of them.
There was a bunch of stuff since I did my own body / paint. But that is a different subject.

great feedback thank you!!


I should probably caveat that I didn't follow the advice I provided. For my situation, I don't mind buying tools and I bought a few during my build that fall into the luxury, nice to have category.

Media blasting cabinet
Powder coating sprayer and oven
Eastwood flaring tool
Kool tools braded line fitting tool
Bendpak lift
300lb Torque wrench
Air mini belt sander
Air drill
90 degree head air drill
Extra jack
Extra jack stands
Power Probe II electrical test tool
Thread gauges
Step drill bits
Several other small tools

Do what works for you and your budget.
Dave

I have seen your build - tools make a HUGE difference in a build for sure... :)


I've got an engine stand as well, can't quite remember where it is at the moment. It's either hiding in the garage or the side of the house, or still at the house in Fremont. In any case, I can help you out with that if you need it.
Allan

yeah, i've seen those ~$50


If you are truly new to working on cars then I would highly recommend going to build school. I'm pretty sure that they would help you put together a good tool list and in the end probably save enough money to pay for build school.

I have a pretty large collection of tools and probably own everything on your list. It's nice to have but I have been collecting tools for 30 plus years. The first set I purchased was one of those 500 piece Craftsman sets that I saved for ever to get. Bought it my senior year in high school.

If nothing else, it looks like you have good planning skills.
Keep planning and remember, you will completely blow your budget if you listen to us on the two forums. :cool:

I am going to the build school next week with my 23-y/o son ;) should be a blast!
Yes, I'm assuming 20% bloat on top of the base prices


Can't add a ton to what's already been written. But couple comments from my side. I started out with quite a few tools, so not at square one like you. But I agree with what others have suggested. Get the basics and add as needed during the build. I enjoy collecting and owning tools, so I don't buy them with the intent to sell when done. But that is an option for some. For limited use items, don't overlook the tool loaner program at your local parts stores. I've done that a few times, and usually with good success. Couple times the tools weren't in great shape so I ended up buying my own. But other times, they were new or nearly new and did the job. Don't write off Harbor Freight. I agree completely you need to pick and choose what to buy from them. I personally avoid their electric power tools (I've pretty much standardized on Milwaukee) and usually the pneumatic ones as well. But hand tools -- ratchets, sockets, wrenches, etc. -- are decent and often a fraction of the cost of other sources. Especially when on sale or with their coupons. Other stuff like sandpaper, drill bits, step drills, etc. are crazy cheap even if they don't last forever. Also useful for very limited use items like gear pullers, vacuum and pressure gauge sets, etc. I started out with a pretty large Craftsman set. But have added a number of things, often from HF, and all have been OK. I know the stuff is imported. But unless you're looking at the real high end tool lines (SnapOn, Matco, Cornwell, etc.) most of those are imported too. Maybe even from the same places. We have a couple local HF stores that I visit occasionally. It seems they are trying to upgrade their stuff across the board. Often with other brand names like Bauer, Daytona, etc. Seems like pretty decent stuff. As already stated, check the reviews. Also tons of comparison videos on YouTube.

love your build(s) and yes, quality tools make a huge difference between frustration and excellence!

[GoDadGo]

Or you could contact Jeff Kleiner or maybe 65 Cobra Dude (Col. Henry) and have one of those fellows get you to the point of having a Red Gel Coat Driver!

https://youtu.be/meBYeI96_A8

These fellows are the best of the best.

To bad I didn't know them before I started my build.

[David Hodgkins]

If you want to bust your budget - but save your back - seriously consider getting a lift. It's a major big ticket item but the pain, suffering and danger reduction is a major plus.

IMHO.

:)

[PaulRSchmidt]

If you want to bust your budget - but save your back - seriously consider getting a lift. It's a major big ticket item but the pain, suffering and danger reduction is a major plus

I’m guessing one of those QuickJacks would do the job?

[CraigS]

Screw drivers? I haven't used a standard screw driver in years. Slot types are more often used as small pry bars than their intended use. BTW, I never use slot tip screws. Get a ratcheting version and a bunch of tips. Mine are SnapOn because I used to be an auto tech but there are many inexpensive ones out there.
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG/?tag=gearbeacon-20
The philips tips should be the non-slip type. look real close at the side of the flutes near the tip for the ribbed surface
https://www.mcmaster.com/7164a67
Some times you can find them in regular stores but I usually order from McMaster when I order something else.
https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-driver-tips
Get a couple of the 2,3, 6 inch lengths also. BTW McMaster is the all time best source for hardware stuff Here is their overall tip page.
https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-driver-tips
Another example is their aluminum selection
https://www.mcmaster.com/aluminum
Even if I don't buy from them they are a fantastic source of info. Click the aluminum in the page above for info on alloys.

[KenWilkinson]

I’m guessing one of those QuickJacks would do the job?

you don't need a quikjack. See picture, plenty of room to work and a 19 dollar creeper!

111661

[Dewey McBride]

I have quick jacks and they work pretty well but you'll need to work around them. Also, they don't work too well on the roadster, so I had to make a "Bridge" so I can put the jacks as wide as possible under the car. Sorry about the upside down picture. Not sure why it does that.
111672

[Papa]

If you want to bust your budget - but save your back - seriously consider getting a lift. It's a major big ticket item but the pain, suffering and danger reduction is a major plus.

IMHO.

:)

Agree 100%

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89018&d=1531782536

[NAZ]

To me this is more than a hobby, I used to make my living turning wrenches, hot cars are a passion, and this is a lifestyle so I have lots of good quality tools and equipment. One piece of equipment I use daily is a four-post lift. I've had two of these things and as I get older I just can't see not having a lift. As a Ford service tech I used a variety of lifts, mostly the old single cylinder installed below grade with four arms -- much like the two-post lifts that are popular now. Hated them things, always laying on the floor to get the lift points aligned with the chassis and low cars usually needed ramps to make it over the arms.

The four-post lifts are inexpensive for what they do. Get the long ramp option and even lowered cars simply drive up on them. The ramp width is adjustable to accommodate a variety of vehicle track widths. I've used mine to service the wife's lawn tractor, ATVs, tractors, and my F550 -- simply adjust the ramp width (no tools necessary) and drive on the lift. When I fabricated the aluminum bed for my F550 I used the lift as an overhead crane to lift the bed and then back the truck under it. I've used it as an extended work bench when dealing with long cumbersome items, a welding positioner for long items, a stacker for storing vehicles, and a bunch of other stuff only limited by my imagination. I purchased the caster kit with my first lift and could roll the lift around the shop and even outside in the driveway where I could pressure wash the salt off my truck. This is an option for some that may not have the ceiling height in a garage. Then again, it's popular for muffler shops to install four-post lifts outside even in Flagstaff which is one of the snowiest cities in the country.

For less than $2K you can purchase a very handy piece of equipment that will get you off your back, make servicing vehicles easy, and solve storage problems when you have one more vehicle than you have room for.

[jwsnake56]

If you want to bust your budget - but save your back - seriously consider getting a lift. It's a major big ticket item but the pain, suffering and danger reduction is a major plus.

IMHO.

:)
Ditto on this one! I considered getting one and didn't and have regretted it ever since. Not only will a lift save your back and be safer than jacks, it will save you a ton of time as well if you are like me and you are constantly up and down getting tools, finding the nut you dropped, etc. This weekend I need to replace brakes on my son's car and AGAIN boy do I wish I had that lift. Also, the HF pneumatic riveter has worked well for me and is great when you have to pull a couple hundred rivets in a session.
John S

[Avalanche325]

you don't need a quikjack. See picture, plenty of room to work and a 19 dollar creeper!

111661

I've got to say that this doesn't look safe to me. The truck is not pushing straight down on the stack. Each tire is putting pressure on two 2x4s at about a 45* angle. Where the weight is, is unsupported from below. You are not using the compression strength of the wood. You are loading it laterally. I know we have all seen huge loads on cribbing stacks that look like that. But the load needs to be distributed across the whole thing and pushing straight down. So basically pushing down on the four solid corners. If one of those top 2x4s lets go, which is what you entire load is on, that truck is going to move.

[RBachman]

I just saw that. But, it's not as bad as it looks. Assuming a contact angle to the board of 20 to 25 deg., or 10 to 12.5 degrees to each contact point off vertical, the friction force alone will probably hold it together, even without nails...just don't bump it. But even without the friction, the horizontal force component probably isn't enough to shear common framing nails. If properly assembled with corner bolts and glue there really shouldn't be an issue. But those nails don't look sufficient to provide an adequate safety factor by themselves.


I've got to say that this doesn't look safe to me. The truck is not pushing straight down on the stack. Each tire is putting pressure on two 2x4s at about a 45* angle. Where the weight is, is unsupported from below. You are not using the compression strength of the wood. You are loading it laterally. I know we have all seen huge loads on cribbing stacks that look like that. But the load needs to be distributed across the whole thing and pushing straight down. So basically pushing down on the four solid corners. If one of those top 2x4s lets go, which is what you entire load is on, that truck is going to move.

[KenWilkinson]

No nails. 3 Inch deck screws. 2x4 18 inch long. Get clear wood as possible, no knots. This will hold a bunch of weight.

Note pictures.
111862

111863

more,
Note the wood is 1x3s . and a heavier car (pro stock Nova -not mine, I wish,a Friend of Tom Wallace's)

111864

[Avalanche325]

My concern is the wood, not the fasteners. Some of the wood nowadays is very weak and the grain splits easily. I've never been a fan of cars up on wood where it is not solid.

There needs to be a solid stack directly under the load for it to be "safe" (and it's still questionable). wood-wood-wood. Not wood-air-wood.

More like this:

[KenWilkinson]

right. More is better. However, I'm fine with it. I'm not bothered enuf to determine the stresses on it (BSME). I'll let you know if it ever fails (grin)

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'd get under it. If it was my ~7.000 pound Ram 2500 not so much.

Jeff

[NAZ]

You should consider raising it another five feet so you can walk under it and installing casters. Probably need ramps but it would be just like a real lift, they have ramps too.

[KenWilkinson]

You should consider raising it another five feet so you can walk under it and installing casters. Probably need ramps but it would be just like a real lift, they have ramps too.

THAT gentlemen is Comedy Gold!

If there is interest, I'll put a dial indicator under the wood, and lift a wheel up to see how many thousands of an inch it is deflecting. Remember, 2200 Ibs divided by four wheels. I doubt it is measurable.

[NAZ]

As a millwright (most of you reading this will have to look that craft up) I used dunnage (yes that's a real word) in creative ways to shore up very heavy equipment much higher than what you're doing Ken. To most it will look kinda hokey and unsafe but done right it serves the purpose. Been working under tens of tons of equipment set on wooden blocks and no problem. And I'm more risk averse than most here.

Rock on brother. But when your body wracks up the mileage mine has (or maybe it's not the mileage but the rough roads) you won't want to work on your back and the cost of a lift will seem more attractive.

[jrohrig]

I printed off the list also and have been buying a few items that I don't already have in anticipation of building one, but I probably already had 75% of the tools.
I can't imagine anyone starts one of these builds that doesn't own a single tool.
Some of those prices seem high too, $80 for a set of screwdrivers is a little much

This is me. I am planning on getting my garage set up this year and ready to start building the following year. I'm actually excited to buy tools! I have a basic wrench set and all the basic stuff you would need to do modest home repairs. I have about 20% of whats on the list already.

[sn8kboy]

As a working dealership tech at the time of my good tool were at work. I only had basic hand tools at home. Borrowed the engine hoist from work and the flair tool from Auto zone (because it was aweekend). The only thing I bought was an air riveter. You do not need to spend a lot on tools inless you want. Now that I am no longer working as tech. I have more at home for the next build.

[delta0014]

Air riveter is definitely my favorite tool I bought for the build.

[GFX2043mtu]

Supprised I’m the first to this, but some times especially for a first time builder the best tools and best loan a tool you can get are some local FFR guys, lol. Some tools are nice but things like a good Eastwood flair tool can often be borrowed as you’ll not use it much after the lines are made. Are they nice to have, sure. Like me I have many tools. But I’m always willing to help too. If you want to get the tools go for it, if your on a budget or would like the friends or both find some local guys and gals building some FFR’s and make it a social thing. I’m sure some one will have the tools you need and often they have great ideas too. Plus the extra hands often come in handy during parts of the build.

[narly1]

I'm surprised that more was not made of the idea of buying second hand tools. There are lots of great deals out there for the savvy buyer, some brand new even, all for the fraction of new.

[toadster]

any thoughts on jack stand pads for UNDER the jack? I have rubber tops to protect the frame, but are there good pads to use to protect my new epoxy floor? :)

I think these Camco pads will work pretty well...

Camco 44600 Universal Flex Pads for Leveling Blocks, 8.5” x 8.5” (https://amzn.to/2FsJp3c)
https://i.imgur.com/GOontvy.png?1

[BrewCityCobra]

I'm in a similar position. Have been buying-up tools and prepping the garage for the past 6-months or so. Hoping to pull the trigger on a kit in the next few months. Getting the garage ready has been half the fun.

[Boydster]

I have enough tools that I just started building and bought only what I needed as I went along. The only thing I bought ahead of time was the air riveter.

[CraigS]

any thoughts on jack stand pads for UNDER the jack? I have rubber tops to protect the frame, but are there good pads to use to protect my new epoxy floor? :)

I think these Camco pads will work pretty well...

Camco 44600 Universal Flex Pads for Leveling Blocks, 8.5” x 8.5” (https://amzn.to/2FsJp3c)
https://i.imgur.com/GOontvy.png?1

I'd be concerned by the 'flex' in the name. They don't specify what they are made of but I'd prefer a piece of plywood to protect your floor.

[cv2065]

If the epoxy floor is worth its salt, a jack stand is not going to damage it. A good epoxy can withstand warehouse traffic such as fork lifts and loaders. Just avoid sliding it around and set into place.

[NAZ]

I have an epoxy floor and use steel jack stands a lot. No problem. But I'd be very concerned setting the jack stands on an elastomer that will flex as this will not provide a sturdy base. Padding on the top to protect the frame or axle is not a problem but I would not use it on the base.

[toadster]

well, I ordered them as they had a deal - they're the perfect size for the HF jacks, the only issue is that they're hard enough to be slippery! If I could rough up the surface, it would work great, but I think i'll pass for now... would add another inch of rise to the jacks as well which would be less to hunch over... oh well, caveat emptor!